A kind of water class cosmetics that can produce the long-acting moisturizing of pearly-lustre
Technical field
The invention belongs to cosmetic field, is related to a kind of water class cosmetics that can produce the long-acting moisturizing of pearly-lustre, it contains greatly
Fabaceous Lecithin liposome and monkey-bread tree seed extract.
Background technology
The development in epoch now and the innovation progress of technology, quickly grow cosmetic industry, while people produce to beauty
Product requirement also improves constantly, various functions, and the cosmetic product of formulation and unique look attracts the eyeball of consumption, cosmetics species
In formulation, water class cosmetics occupy critical positions always.From P&G SK-II " facial treatment essence ", to L'Oreal " genius water ", then to now
The water class of modern various unique looks occurs, and attracts consumer dearly.Water class cosmetics occupy the important market share, water always
It is fiercer that the competition of class cosmetics also comes, and the water class cosmetics of a unique look, can effectively attract consumer's eyeball.Mesh
In the popular aqua of preceding in the market, appearance is double-deck, three layers, goldleaf water, bubble-water, solid water, the formulation such as water and milk, less appearance
Pearly-lustre aqua.
Pearly-lustre, as its name suggests, just like pearlescent.Pearly-lustre can increase the aesthetic feeling and attraction of product.In the prior art,
In shampoo, shower cream, mildy wash either some high-grade liquid detergents, pearling agent can be typically added, produces product
Pearly-lustre is given birth to attract consumer.Pearling agent is divided into natural and two classes of synthesis.Natural pearlescent agent has oyster shell whiting, mica powder and natural gum
Deng;Synthetic pearlescent is then higher aliphatic acids, alcohols, esters and stearates etc..However, on the market, rarer pearly-lustre
Water class cosmetics because existing pearling agent such as mica powder etc., can produce substantial amounts of residual after use.Water class cosmetics conduct
First of skin care item of skin, dosage is big, most presses close to skin, if water class cosmetics contain the pearling agent that can be remained, makes for a long time,
Clogging of pores can then be caused, produce the skin problem such as acne and blackhead.Therefore, less someone uses pearly-lustre in water class cosmetics
Agent.Synthetic pearlescent is typically using higher systems of viscosity such as shampoo, shower cream and mildy wash, because thicker system is easy to
The formation of pearly-lustre and occur without layering, precipitation stability problem.And aqua class cosmetics synthesize pearl typically without high slumpability energy
Photo etching is not easy to form pearly-lustre and has stability problem in water class, so general water class cosmetics are not suitable for using.
In addition, water class cosmetics there is a need for being able to reach the rapid function to skin moisturizing and exclusive clearly moist skin
Sense.At present, product on the market, in order to increase the moisture-keeping functions of water class cosmetics, a large amount of NMFs such as hyalomitome acids is added,
Biofermentation polysaccharide etc., as usage amount is excessive, skin sense can be caused to stick greasy clouding, usage amount is low, then moistening effect unobvious,
With common pure water it makes no odds.Therefore, water class cosmetics of the prior art, it is difficult to take into account moisturizing and salubrious performance.
The content of the invention
It is an object of the invention to provide a kind of water class cosmetics that can produce pearly-lustre naturally, without relying on traditional pearly-lustre
Agent produces pearly-lustre.
The present invention also aims to provide a kind of water class cosmetics of long-acting moisturizing.
The present invention also aims to provide a kind of salubrious not glutinous greasy water class cosmetics.
The above-mentioned purpose of the present invention is realized by following technological means:
On the one hand, the invention provides a kind of water class cosmetics for the long-acting moisturizing that can produce pearly-lustre, it includes following heavy
Measure the component of percentage:Liposome of soyabean phospholipid:1.0-8.0%;Monkey-bread tree seed extract:1.0-8.0%;Water:65-
90%.As preferred embodiment, contain liposome of soyabean phospholipid:2.0-5.0%;Monkey-bread tree seed extract:2.0-
5.0%;Water:65-90%.
Wherein, liposome of soyabean phospholipid is to be passed through special hydrogenation technology and fusion cholesterine by phospholipid of natural soybean and gathered
The faint yellow wax that the Particular craft of the isostearate of glycerine -10 forms, hydrolecithin content have excellent in 25-35%
Good moisturizing emulsifies effect, there is good hydrophily, can promote the infiltration of oil-soluble and water-soluble active ingredient.Existing skill
In art, liposome of soyabean phospholipid is mainly used in health products, medicine or food.In cosmetics, liposome of soyabean phospholipid is general
As emulsifying agent, antioxidant, NMF etc..However, in the cosmetics series containing liposome of soyabean phospholipid at present, soybean
Phosphatide can not produce pearly-lustre, and most important reason is probably because system and dosage of cosmetics etc..Therefore, it is at present
Only, not yet someone is used as pearling agent using liposome of soyabean phospholipid.It is an unexpected discovery of the invention that when with the water class cosmetics
Gross weight meter, when the addition of liposome of soyabean phospholipid is 1.0-8.0%, can produce uniqueness nacreous crystals outward appearance.Such as
The addition of fruit liposome of soyabean phospholipid is less than 1.0%, occurs without pearl effect and performance of keeping humidity is poor;If soybean lecithin fat
The addition of plastid is more than 8%, can influence the stability of product so that the meeting of liposome of soyabean phospholipid settles out.
Wherein, monkey-bread tree seed extract comes from African " Tree of Life " monkey-bread tree, passes through special extraction process, extraction
Rich in plant small molecular RNA monkey-bread tree seed extracts, help maintains hyaluronic acid synthetase HAS2 balance sheets to reach, effectively facilitated
Hyaluronic acid synthesizes, and has long-acting humectant properties.With the gross weight meter of the water class cosmetics, the monkey-bread tree seed extract
Addition be 1.0-8.0%, preferably 2-5%.If the addition of monkey-bread tree seed extract is less than 1.0%, can not
Liposome of soyabean phospholipid is cooperateed with to produce long-acting performance of keeping humidity;If the addition of monkey-bread tree seed extract is more than 8%, it is added to
This product skin sense simultaneously sticks greasy enhancing, and skin sense is poor.
Liposome of soyabean phospholipid compounds with monkey-bread tree seed extract, can not only produce the specific form of main pearly-lustre, and
Liposome of soyabean phospholipid can effectively facilitate the infiltration of monkey-bread tree seed extract composition, and can play collaboration strengthens long-acting moisturizing
Effect.As preferred embodiment, polyalcohol NMF is contained in cosmetics of the invention, it is preferable that the polyalcohol bag
Include one or more combinations in 1,3 butylene glycol, glycerine, DPG, propane diols, 1,3- propane diols;It is it is highly preferred that described
Polyalcohol is the combination of 1,3 butylene glycol, glycerine and DPG.1,3 butylene glycol, glycerine, DPG are that polyalcohol is protected
Humectant, wherein, 1,3-BDO category small molecule moisturizing ingredient, moisture can be stayed in cuticula, and the gentle excitant of quality
It is small.And glycerine can permeate skin bottom, the skin that compacts recovers moist elasticity, hence it is evident that improves skin, moisture is pinned for skin.Two
Propane diols has salubrious skin sense, is particularly suitable for water class cosmetics.The gross weight meter made up with the water class, the polyalcohol
Addition is 6.0-15%, preferably 9-12%.If the addition of NMF is less than 6%, moistening effect unobvious;If protect
The addition of humectant is more than 15% so that the water class cosmetics are larger to the excitant of skin.
As preferred embodiment, glycerin polyether -26 that water class cosmetics of the invention also contain, it is by 26 moles
The glycerine addition product of oxireme, there is the sense of touch of excellent NMF, lubricant and exquisiteness, the energy in product leather hard
Water class product, which is played, improves its sticky skin sense function.The addition percentage by weight of glycerin polyether -26 is 0.5-3.0%, preferably
For 1.0-2%.If the addition of glycerin polyether -26 is less than 0.5%, greasy effect variation is sticked to the drop of product;If glycerine gathers
The addition of ether -26 is more than 3.0%, increases cost, does not have more preferable thinning effect to water class cosmetics.
As preferred embodiment, for the present invention also containing reed fragrant plant glue oil, it is to be formed by polyglycerolmethacrylate
Unique cagelike structure, has the strong point of water-soluble skin emollient and glossy skin emollient, there is water lock ability, can improve product
Skin sense and the skin sense conditioning agent of lubricity.The addition percentage by weight of reed fragrant plant glue oil is 0.5-3.0%, preferably 1.0-2.0%.
If the addition of reed fragrant plant glue oil is less than 0.5%, to product without obvious skin sense regulating effect;If reed fragrant plant glue oil adds
Enter amount more than 3.0%, increase cost, there is no more preferable skin sense regulating effect to water class cosmetics.
In the cosmetics of the present invention, also contain thickener.Thickener is a kind of auxiliary rheological agents, can change the physics of cosmetics
Character, assign the suitable viscosity of product and have emulsification concurrently, stablize or make the effect in suspended state.It can be selected in the present invention
Thickener such as xanthans, tara gum, hydrolysis Scleroglucan, AVC, acrylic acid hydroxyl second
Ester/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymers, carbomer, acrylic acid (ester) class/C10-30 alkylol acrylamide acid esters cross-linked polymerics
One or more in thing, hydroxyethyl cellulose etc.;As preferred embodiment, thickener is selected from as xanthans, Caesalpinia spinosaKuntze
One or more in glue, AVC, be more highly preferred to ammonium acryloyldime-thyltaurate/
VP copolymers.Further, percentage by weight of the thickener in whole system is 0.1-0.4%, preferably:0.15-0.3%.
A kind of water class cosmetics that can produce the long-acting moisturizing of pearly-lustre of the present invention, can also contain chelating agent, preservative,
The additive commonly used in one or more cosmetics in essence, water colo(u)r, these additive components and adding proportion do not have
There is special limitation, as long as in the prior art can be with as the species and ratio of the additive in water class cosmetics.Make
It is described with a kind of gross weight meter for the water class cosmetics that can produce the long-acting moisturizing of pearly-lustre for a kind of preferred embodiment
The addition of chelating agent is 0.01-0.15%, preferably 0.05-0.1%;The addition of preservative is 0.1-1%, is preferably
0.5-0.8%;The preservative include pentanediol, hexylene glycol, pungent glycol, Phenoxyethanol, in methyl hydroxybenzoate one or more with
On.The addition of the essence is 0.01-0.06%, preferably 0.02-0.05%.The addition 0.00001- of water colo(u)r
0.0005%, preferably 0.0001-0.0005%%.
On the other hand, present invention also offers a kind of preparation method for the water class cosmetics that can produce the long-acting moisturizing of pearly-lustre,
It is characterized in that comprise the steps of:
(1) polyalcohol, glycerin polyether -26, reed fragrant plant glue oil, chelating agent are added in deionized water, are heated to 80-85 DEG C,
Homogeneous is stirred to dissolution of raw material;70-75 DEG C is cooled to, liposome of soyabean phospholipid is added, stirs, be cooled to 40-42 DEG C;It is excellent
Selection of land, homogeneous speed are 2000-3000r/min;Mixing speed is 20-50r/min;
(2) monkey-bread tree seed extract, thickener, preservative, essence, water colo(u)r are added prepared by step (1)
In mixture, 10-20min is stirred, continues stirring and is cooled to less than 35 DEG C, discharged with the filter-cloth filtering of 100 mesh;Preferably, stir
It is 20-50r/min to mix speed.
Some compositions do not add then if it has not, such as essence pigment in preparation process.
In the present invention, described water class cosmetics can form the nacreous crystals outward appearance aqua class cosmetics of uniqueness.It is different from
The pearly-lustre aqua class cosmetics that pearlescent flake or mica powder are formed are added, noresidue, no mud extraction, easily absorb, can long-acting moisturizing
Aqua class cosmetics.
Beneficial effects of the present invention:
(1) there are unique pearly-lustre, natural noresidue:During the present invention is first by the use of liposome of soyabean phospholipid as water class cosmetics
A kind of Novel bead photo etching, a water class cosmetics that can be produced pearly-lustre, there is distinctive appearance, and soybean phosphorus is prepared
Fat liposome is pure natural, can be by percutaneous absorption, complete noresidue, and this is a breakthrough progress in water class cosmetic field.
It should be noted that not arbitrarily add liposome of soyabean phospholipid, you can obtaining there are the water class cosmetics of pearl effect, the present invention
Grope through overtesting, control liposome of soyabean phospholipid can obtain the water class such as pearlescent in the range of 1.0-8.0%
Cosmetic and stable not Precipitation.
(2) long-acting moisturizing:In the present invention, liposome of soyabean phospholipid, monkey-bread tree seed extract compounding, there is collaboration enhancing
The effect of long-acting moisturizing, and moistening effect duration length.Liposome of soyabean phospholipid has certain moisture-keeping functions, monkey face in itself
Bag seeds of trees extract is rich in plant small molecular RNA, and these microRNAs can help to maintain hyaluronic acid synthetase HAS2 to balance
Expression, hyaluronic acid synthesis is effectively facilitated, there are long-acting humectant properties.Liposome of soyabean phospholipid can promote the baobab seeds of trees to extract
The infiltration of thing composition, strengthen the effect of long-acting moisturizing, allow monkey-bread tree seed extract more preferably to maintain hyaluronic acid synthetase HAS2
Balance sheet reaches, and promotes hyaluronic acid synthesis, strengthens long-acting performance of keeping humidity.
(3) quality is salubrious:The cosmetics of the present invention are free of the NMF such as hyalomitome acids or biofermentation polysaccharide, pass through
Experiment confirms that its quality is clearly not glutinous greasy.
(4) not spirituosity, water class cosmetics of the prior art largely contain alcohol, and the cosmetics of the present invention are free of
There is alcohol, do not stimulate gently.
Brief description of the drawings
Fig. 1 is the objective evaluation test result figure of inventive embodiments 6 and comparative example 1-3,7-12;
Fig. 2 is the pictorial diagram for the water class cosmetics with the long-acting moisturizing of pearly-lustre that the present invention is prepared.
Embodiment
Technical scheme is further illustrated below by way of specific embodiment, specific embodiment is not represented to this hair
The limitation of bright protection domain.Some nonessential modifications and adjustment that other people are made according to theory of the present invention still fall within this hair
Bright protection domain.
Embodiment 1-6 can produce the water class cosmetics of the long-acting moisturizing of pearly-lustre
Table 1 (parts by weight)
Preparation method:
(1) by deionized water add emulsification pot, add glycerine, butanediol, DPG, reed fragrant plant glue oil, glycerin polyether-
26th, EDETATE SODIUM, 80-85 DEG C is then heated to, homogeneous is stirred untill emulsification all raw materials of pot all dissolve, and stirs (20-50r/
Min), homogeneous speed is 2000-3000r/min.70-75 DEG C is cooled to, liposome of phospholipid of natural soybean is added, stirs,
It is cooled to 40-42 DEG C
(2) monkey-bread tree seed extract, thickener, preservative, essence, water colo(u)r are sequentially added into emulsification pot.Add
Material finishes, and continues to stir (20-50r/min) 10-20 minutes, and continuation cools while stirring, samples censorship.After censorship is qualified, treat
Temperature is down to less than 35 DEG C, is discharged with the filter-cloth filtering of 100 mesh.
Embodiment 7-12 can produce the water class cosmetics of the long-acting moisturizing of pearly-lustre
According to the content (number) of each component in table 2 below, and one is prepared according to the step identical with embodiment 1-6
Kind can produce the water class cosmetics of the long-acting moisturizing of pearly-lustre.
Table 2 (parts by weight)
Embodiment 13-18 can produce the water class cosmetics of the long-acting moisturizing of pearly-lustre
According to the content (number) of each component in table 3 below, and one is prepared according to the step identical with embodiment 1-6
Kind can produce the water class cosmetics of the long-acting moisturizing of pearly-lustre.
Table 3 (parts by weight)
Comparative example 1-6 pearl effects contrast
According to the content (number) of each component in table 4 below, and water is prepared according to the step identical with embodiment 1-6
Class cosmetics.
Table 4 (parts by weight)
The long-acting moisturizing contrast of comparative example 6-12 difference moisturizing ingredients
According to the content (number) of each component in table 5 below, and water is prepared according to the step identical with embodiment 1-6
Class cosmetics.
Table 5 (parts by weight)
Pearl effect is tested
Sample made from comparative example 1-6 and embodiment 1,6,12 be stored at room temperature within 24 hours, then by observing it
Outward appearance and use skin sensing examination.
Table 6
Sample |
Outward appearance |
Use skin sense |
Comparative example 1 |
Transparency liquid |
Clearly, noresidue |
Comparative example 2 |
Transparency liquid |
Clearly, noresidue |
Comparative example 3 |
There is nacreous crystals liquid |
Clearly, noresidue |
Comparative example 4 |
There is nacreous crystals liquid |
Clearly, noresidue |
Comparative example 5 |
Two layers above and below point, there is pearly-lustre on upper strata |
It is formulated unstable |
Comparative example 6 |
There is pearlescent liquid |
Clearly, there is residual |
Embodiment 1 |
There is nacreous crystals liquid |
Clearly, noresidue |
Embodiment 6 |
There is nacreous crystals liquid |
Clearly, noresidue |
Embodiment 12 |
There is nacreous crystals liquid |
Clearly, noresidue |
From the point of view of the contrast experiment of table 6, comparative example 3, comparative example 4, embodiment 1,6,12 contain liposome of soyabean phospholipid,
They can produce nacreous crystals outward appearance in water class cosmetics, and not remain.Pearlescent flake of the comparative example 5 containing synthesis class
Glycol distearate, because the viscosity of water class cosmetics is too small, it is impossible to form uniform pearlitic.Comparative example 6 contains
Mica powder, there can be good pearl effect, but skin has mica powder residual during being formulated use.Therefore, the application system
A kind of generation nacreous crystals outward appearance of standby obtained water class cosmetics that can produce the long-acting moisturizing of pearly-lustre is preferable, there is unique look,
Noresidue.
Long-acting moisturizing test
Using the moisture of capacitance method measure human skin keratinocyte's layer, the difference in dielectric constant based on water He other materials
Significantly, according to the difference of keratoderma moisture, the capacitance difference of skin is measured, therefore, capacitance can represent skin
Moisture.
Two demarcation regions are randomly selected in position corresponding to the inner side of two arms as water class cosmetic applying region,
(2.0 ± 0.1) mg/cm is smeared in application area2The water that embodiment 1,6,12, comparative example 1-3 and comparative example 7-12 are prepared
Class cosmetics carry out skin moisture content test, and sample is smeared to uniform, capacitance method moisture of skin analyzer using latex finger cot
Come into effect the water class cosmetics that the comparative example 1-3 of example 1,6,12 and comparative example 7-12 are prepared and carry out application area measure, point
Initial value after Ce Ding not smearing uniformly and 2 hours, 4 hours, 8 hours, 12 hours, human skin keratinocyte's layer of 24 hours
Moisture, as a result as shown in table 7.
Table 7
From the point of view of the contrast experiment of table 7, comparative example 1-3, the experiment test of embodiment 1,6,12 finds out liposome of soyabean phospholipid
There is certain the effect of cooperateing with increase long-acting moisturizing with monkey-bread tree seed extract.Embodiment 1,6,12 contains soybean lecithin lipid
Body is longer compared with comparative example 7-8, comparative example 10-12 difference NMFs long-acting moisture preserving time preferably with monkey-bread tree seed extract.
Embodiment 1,6,12 is analyzed with the experiment test of comparative example 9, and Sodium Hyaluronate is acknowledged as the relatively good excellent guarantor of long-acting moisturizing
Humectant, the application is using the embodiment 1,6,12 combined containing liposome of soyabean phospholipid with monkey-bread tree seed extract with containing
The comparative example 9 of 2% Sodium Hyaluronate is contrast experiment, and initial a period of time contains the comparative example performance of keeping humidity of 2% Sodium Hyaluronate
Preferably, the embodiment 1,6,12 that is combined after 24 hours with monkey-bread tree seed extract containing liposome of soyabean phospholipid and 2% is contained
The long-acting performance of keeping humidity of the comparative example 9 of Sodium Hyaluronate is more or less the same, and the comparative example 9 containing 2% Sodium Hyaluronate is made that
Although long-acting performance of keeping humidity it is preferable, the skin sense of aqua sticks greasy, is not liked by consumer.Furthermore, it is necessary to explanation, thoroughly
Bright matter acid sodium is limited in the production application of cosmetics by cost price and experience skin sense, is usually no more than 1%
Usage amount, in the present invention during contrived experiment, in order to keep the parts by weight of NMF consistent, so the weight of Sodium Hyaluronate point
Number is 2%.And the application maintains hyaluronic acid to close by liposome of soyabean phospholipid and monkey-bread tree seed extract concertedness, help
Reached into enzyme HAS2 balance sheets, promote hyaluronic acid synthesis, can reach be used cooperatively the long-acting moisture retention of 2% Sodium Hyaluronate it is basic
Consistent performance, and it is clearly not glutinous greasy using skin sense.Therefore, one kind that the application is prepared can produce the long-acting moisturizing of pearly-lustre
Water class cosmetics long-acting performance of keeping humidity it is preferable, have and salubrious use skin sense.
Objective evaluation is tested
Salubrious to the setting of water class cosmetics, not glutinous greasy, moisturizing, the evaluation for pasting skin, preference degree five, by distributing sample
It is on probation, then product on probation is given a mark, score value is from 1 to 5.5 points represent, and 4 points represent well, and 3 points represent preferable, 2 points of generations
Table is general, 1 point represent it is poor.This test participates in test for totally 30, between completing this 18 years old to 35 years old age of test, wherein in
The property people of skin 12, the people of Oily 5, the people of combination 13.To embodiment 6, comparative example 1-3 and comparative example 7-12 progress are objective
Evaluation test, as a result such as Fig. 1.
From the point of view of Fig. 1 overall merits and the experiment test of table 6, the long-acting moistening effect of embodiment 6 is preferable, shows this hair
Bright liposome of soyabean phospholipid has with monkey-bread tree seed extract compounding cooperates with enhancing performance of keeping humidity, and the synthesis of embodiment 6
Scoring and highest, its salubrious degree, moisture retention and patch skin can effectively meet consumer demand.Although and comparative example 9
Performance of keeping humidity is pretty good, but pastes skin, salubrious degree, it is poor to stick greasy degree.Therefore, one kind that the application is prepared can produce pearly-lustre length
Imitate the preferable in consumer's objective evaluation of the water class cosmetics of moisturizing.
Stability test
Obtained a kind of water class cosmetics that can produce the long-acting moisturizing of pearly-lustre in embodiment 1-18 and comparative example 1-12 are put
In constant-temperature enclosed drier, placed under conditions of being 25 DEG C in relative humidity 75%, intensity of illumination 4500lx, temperature, point
Fang Zhi not be 3 months and 6 months, it is as a result as shown in table 7 below.
Table 8
As can be seen from Table 8, after by March, the water being prepared in embodiment 1-12 and embodiment 14-16 is found
Class cosmetics are without exception;It is without exception after placing 6 months.And the water class being prepared in embodiment 13 and embodiment 17-18 is made up
Product, liposome of soyabean phospholipid weight fraction are respectively 0.8% and 9.0%, and 9.2%, beyond 1.0-8.0% extents of competence, place 3
Individual month and after 6 months, all there is exception.A kind of so water class that can produce the long-acting moisturizing of pearly-lustre being prepared in the application
The stability of cosmetic is good.
But after by June, the preparation-obtained water class cosmetics of comparative example 5-6, using other formation pearly-lustres
The pearlescent product of mode, stability have certain abnormal.It can be seen that the preparation-obtained one kind of the application can produce the long-acting guarantor of pearly-lustre
Wet water class cosmetics have than more prominent stability in stability.