Water-based cosmetic capable of generating pearly luster and preserving moisture for long time
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, and relates to a water-based cosmetic capable of generating pearly luster, long-acting and moisturizing, which contains soybean phospholipid liposome and a Paeonia tonkinensis seed extract.
Background
The development of the modern times and the innovation and progress of the technology lead the cosmetic industry to develop rapidly, meanwhile, the requirements of people on cosmetic products are continuously improved, various functional, dosage forms and cosmetic products with unique appearances attract the eyes of consumers, and water cosmetics in cosmetic variety dosage forms always occupy an important position. From "Shenxian water" of SK-II to "Tian Yi water" of Europe to the appearance of various unique appearance waters nowadays, it deeply attracts consumers. Water cosmetics always occupy important market share, the competition of water cosmetics is more intense, and the water cosmetics with unique appearance can effectively attract the eyes of consumers. In the current popular aqueous solution in the market, the dosage forms of double-layer, three-layer, gold foil water, soaking water, solid water, water emulsion and the like appear, but the pearl aqueous solution rarely appears.
Pearly luster, as its name implies, has a pearly luster. Pearlescence can add to the aesthetic and appeal of the product. In the prior art, a pearling agent is generally added into shampoo, shower gel, facial cleanser or some high-grade liquid detergents, so that the product generates pearly luster to attract consumers. Pearlescent agents fall into two categories, natural and synthetic. The natural pearling agent comprises shell powder, mica powder, natural glue and the like; the synthetic pearling agent is higher fatty acid, alcohol, ester, stearate, etc. However, in the market, there are few pearlescent water-based cosmetics because the existing pearlescent agents such as mica powder and the like generate a large amount of residue after use. The water-based cosmetic is used as the first skin care product of skin, is large in dosage and is closest to the skin, and if the water-based cosmetic contains a residual pearling agent, the water-based cosmetic can cause pore blockage and cause skin problems such as acne and blackhead after being used for a long time. Therefore, there are few people who use pearling agents in water-based cosmetics. The synthetic pearling agent generally uses systems with higher viscosity, such as shampoo, shower gel, facial cleanser and the like, because the thicker systems are convenient for forming pearly luster and do not have the stability problems of layering and precipitation. However, the water-based cosmetics generally have no high viscosity, and the synthetic pearlescent agent is inconvenient to form pearly luster in water and has stability problem, so that the water-based cosmetics are not suitable for use.
In addition, water-based cosmetics are also required to achieve the function of rapidly moisturizing the skin and a unique refreshing and moisturizing skin feel. At present, in order to increase the moisturizing function of water cosmetics, a large amount of moisturizing agents such as hyaluronic acids and biologically fermented polysaccharides are added to products on the market, and if the amount of the moisturizing agents is too large, the skin feel is sticky and not fresh and cool, and the amount of the moisturizing agents is low, the moisturizing effect is not obvious, and the moisturizing effects are not different from those of common purified water. Therefore, it is difficult to achieve both moisturizing and refreshing properties in the conventional water-based cosmetics.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a water-based cosmetic capable of naturally generating pearlescence without depending on a traditional pearlizing agent.
The invention also aims to provide the long-acting moisturizing water-based cosmetic.
The invention also aims to provide a refreshing and non-sticky water-based cosmetic.
The above object of the present invention is achieved by the following technical means:
in one aspect, the invention provides a long-acting moisturizing water-based cosmetic capable of generating pearlescence, which comprises the following components in percentage by weight: soybean phospholipid liposome: 1.0-8.0%; extract of Paeonia suffruticosa seeds: 1.0-8.0%; water: 65-90 percent. In a preferred embodiment, the liposome comprises a soybean phospholipid liposome: 2.0 to 5.0 percent; extract of Paeonia suffruticosa seeds: 2.0 to 5.0 percent; water: 65-90 percent.
The soybean phospholipid liposome is a light yellow wax-like substance prepared from natural soybean phospholipid by a special hydrogenation technology and a unique process of fusing cholesterin and polyglycerol-10 isostearate, the content of the hydrogenated lecithin is 25-35%, and the soybean phospholipid liposome has an excellent moisturizing and emulsifying effect, has good hydrophilicity, and can promote the penetration of oil-soluble and water-soluble active substance components. In the prior art, the soybean phospholipid liposome is mainly used in health products, medicines or foods. In cosmetics, soybean phospholipid liposome is generally used as an emulsifier, an antioxidant, a humectant and the like. However, in the current cosmetic system containing soybean phospholipid liposome, the soybean phospholipid cannot generate pearlescence, and the main reason is probably because of the system and the dosage of the cosmetic, and the like. Therefore, no soybean phospholipid liposome has been used as a pearling agent so far. The present inventors have surprisingly found that soy phospholipid liposomes can be added in an amount of 1.0-8.0% by weight based on the total weight of the water-based cosmetic, to give a unique pearlescent crystal appearance. If the addition amount of the soybean phospholipid liposome is less than 1.0 percent, the pearl effect and the moisturizing performance are not poor; if the addition amount of the soybean phospholipid liposome is more than 8 percent, the stability of the product is affected, so that the soybean phospholipid liposome can be precipitated.
The monkey breadtree seed extract is from an African 'living tree' monkey breadtree, is rich in plant small molecular RNA monkey breadtree seed extract through a special extraction process, helps to maintain the balance expression of hyaluronic acid synthetase HAS2, effectively promotes the synthesis of hyaluronic acid, and HAS the long-acting moisturizing characteristic. The addition amount of the Adansonia dubia seed extract is 1.0-8.0%, preferably 2-5% based on the total weight of the water cosmetic. If the addition amount of the Adansonia dubia seed extract is less than 1.0 percent, the Adansonia dubia seed extract cannot cooperate with the soybean phospholipid liposome to generate long-acting moisturizing performance; if the addition amount of the Adansonia dubia seed extract is more than 8 percent, the cost is increased, and the product has sticky and greasy skin feel and poor skin feel.
The soybean phospholipid liposome is compounded with the Adansonia dubia seed extract, so that the special form of main pearlescence can be generated, and the soybean phospholipid liposome can effectively promote the permeation of Adansonia dubia seed extract components and can achieve the effect of synergistically enhancing the long-acting moisturizing effect. As a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic of the present invention contains a polyhydric alcohol humectant, preferably, the polyhydric alcohol includes one or more combinations of 1, 3-butylene glycol, glycerin, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1, 3-propylene glycol; more preferably, the polyol is a combination of 1, 3-butanediol, glycerol and dipropylene glycol. 1, 3-butanediol, glycerin and dipropylene glycol are polyhydric alcohol moisturizers, wherein the 1, 3-butanediol belongs to small molecular moisturizing ingredients, can retain water in the horny layer, and has mild texture and low irritation. And the glycerin can permeate into the bottom layer of the skin, tighten the skin, recover the moisturizing elasticity, obviously improve the skin and lock moisture for the skin. Dipropylene glycol has a refreshing skin feel and is particularly suitable for water-based cosmetics. The amount of the polyhydric alcohol added is 6.0 to 15%, preferably 9 to 12%, based on the total weight of the water-based cosmetic. If the addition amount of the humectant is less than 6%, the moisturizing effect is not obvious; if the addition amount of the humectant is more than 15%, the water-based cosmetic is made to be more irritating to the skin.
As a preferred embodiment, the water-based cosmetic of the present invention further contains glyceryl polyether-26, which is a glycerin adduct of 26 moles of ethylene oxide, has excellent moisturizing agent, lubricant and fine touch, and functions to improve the sticky and skin-feel of the water-based product when the product is in a semi-dry state. The weight percentage of the glycerol polyether-26 is 0.5-3.0%, preferably 1.0-2%. If the addition amount of the glyceryl polyether-26 is less than 0.5 percent, the viscosity reducing effect on the product is poor; if the addition amount of the glyceryl polyether-26 is more than 3.0%, the cost is increased, and the viscosity reducing effect on water cosmetics is not good.
The invention also comprises luba gum oil which is a unique cage structure formed by polymethyl glyceryl acrylate, has the advantages of water-soluble skin softening agent and oil-soluble skin softening agent, has water-locking capacity and can improve the skin feeling and the lubricity of the product. The added weight percentage of the luba gum oil is 0.5-3.0%, preferably 1.0-2.0%. If the addition amount of the luba gum oil is less than 0.5 percent, no obvious skin feeling adjusting effect is generated on the product; if the addition amount of the luba gum oil is more than 3.0%, the cost is increased, and the skin feel adjusting effect on water cosmetics is not good.
The cosmetic of the present invention further contains a thickener. The thickener is a rheological aid, can change the physical properties of cosmetics, endows the products with proper viscosity, and has the functions of emulsifying, stabilizing or making the products in a suspended state. The thickening agent which can be selected in the invention is one or more of xanthan gum, tara gum, hydrolyzed sclerotium rolfsii gum, acryloyl dimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, carbomer, acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, hydroxyethyl cellulose and the like; as a preferred embodiment, the thickening agent is one or more selected from xanthan gum, tara gum and acryloyl dimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer, and the acryloyl dimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer is more preferred. Further, the weight percentage of the thickener in the whole system is 0.1-0.4%, preferably: 0.15 to 0.3 percent.
The water-based cosmetic capable of generating pearly luster and preserving moisture for a long time can also contain one or more additives commonly used in cosmetics in chelating agents, preservatives, essences and water-soluble pigments, and the components and the adding proportion of the additives are not particularly limited, so long as the additives can be used as the additives in the water-based cosmetic in the prior art. As a preferred embodiment, the chelating agent is added in an amount of 0.01 to 0.15%, preferably 0.05 to 0.1%, based on the total weight of the water-based cosmetic capable of producing pearlescent long-lasting moisture retention; the addition amount of the preservative is 0.1-1%, preferably 0.5-0.8%; the antiseptic comprises one or more of pentanediol, hexanediol, caprylyl glycol, phenoxyethanol, and methyl hydroxybenzoate. The addition amount of the essence is 0.01-0.06%, preferably 0.02-0.05%. The water soluble pigment is added in an amount of 0.00001-0.0005%, preferably 0.0001-0.0005%.
In another aspect, the present invention provides a method for preparing a water-based cosmetic capable of producing pearlescent long-lasting moisturization, characterized by comprising the steps of:
(1) adding polyalcohol, glyceryl polyether-26, jojoba gum oil, and chelating agent into deionized water, heating to 80-85 deg.C, homogenizing, and stirring until the raw materials are dissolved; cooling to 70-75 deg.C, adding soybean phospholipid liposome, stirring, and cooling to 40-42 deg.C; preferably, the homogenizing speed is 2000-; the stirring speed is 20-50 r/min;
(2) adding Adansonia dubia seed extract, thickener, antiseptic, essence, and water soluble pigment into the mixture prepared in step (1), stirring for 10-20min, cooling to below 35 deg.C, filtering with 100 mesh filter cloth, and discharging; preferably, the stirring speed is 20 to 50 r/min.
If some components such as essence and pigment are not contained, they are not added in the preparation process.
In the invention, the water-based cosmetic can form a unique pearlescent crystal appearance water-based cosmetic. The pearlescent water aqua cosmetic is different from pearlescent water aqua cosmetics formed by adding pearlescent sheets or mica powder, has no residue and no mud, is easy to absorb, and can keep moisture for a long time.
The invention has the beneficial effects that:
(1) has unique pearly luster, is natural and has no residue: the soybean phospholipid liposome is used as a novel pearling agent in the water cosmetics for the first time, the water cosmetics which can generate pearlescence and have special appearance are prepared, and the soybean phospholipid liposome is pure natural, can be absorbed by skin and has no residue, so the soybean phospholipid liposome is a breakthrough progress in the field of water cosmetics. It should be noted that the water-based cosmetic with pearly luster can be obtained without adding soybean phospholipid liposome at will, and the invention is proved by experiments that the soybean phospholipid liposome is controlled within the range of 1.0-8.0%, and the water-based cosmetic with pearly luster can be obtained and is stable without precipitation.
(2) Long-acting moisture preservation: according to the invention, the soybean phospholipid liposome and the Adiantum henryi seed extract are compounded, so that the long-acting moisturizing effect is synergistically enhanced, and the moisturizing effect lasts for a long time. The soybean phospholipid liposome HAS a certain moisturizing function, the Paeonia suffruticosa seed extract is rich in plant small molecular RNA, and the small molecular RNA can help to maintain the balance expression of hyaluronic acid synthetase HAS2, effectively promote the synthesis of hyaluronic acid and HAS the long-acting moisturizing characteristic. The soybean phospholipid liposome can promote the permeation of the components of the Adansonia dubia seed extract, enhance the long-acting moisturizing effect, ensure that the Adansonia dubia seed extract better maintains the balance expression of hyaluronic acid synthetase HAS2, promote the synthesis of hyaluronic acid and enhance the long-acting moisturizing performance.
(3) The texture is fresh and cool: the cosmetic does not contain moisturizing agents such as hyaluronic acids or biological fermentation polysaccharides, and the test proves that the cosmetic is fresh and cool in texture and is not sticky.
(4) The water-based cosmetic does not contain alcohol, most of the water-based cosmetics in the prior art contain alcohol, and the cosmetic disclosed by the invention does not contain alcohol and is mild and non-irritant.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a graph showing the results of objective evaluation tests of inventive example 6 and comparative examples 1 to 3, and 7 to 12;
FIG. 2 is a diagram of a water-based cosmetic with pearl luster long-acting moisturizing effect prepared by the invention.
Detailed Description
The technical solutions of the present invention are further illustrated by the following specific examples, which do not represent limitations to the scope of the present invention. Insubstantial modifications and adaptations of the present invention by others of the concepts fall within the scope of the invention.
Examples 1 to 6 Water-based cosmetic compositions capable of imparting pearlescent effect and long-lasting moisturizing effect
TABLE 1 (parts by weight)
The preparation method comprises the following steps:
(1) adding deionized water into an emulsifying pot, adding glycerol, butanediol, dipropylene glycol, luba gum oil, glyceryl polyether-26 and EDTA disodium, heating to 80-85 deg.C, homogenizing and stirring (20-50r/min) until all raw materials in the emulsifying pot are dissolved, and homogenizing at 2000-3000 r/min. Cooling to 70-75 deg.C, adding natural soybean phospholipid liposome, stirring, cooling to 40-42 deg.C
(2) Adding the Adansonia dubia seed extract, the thickening agent, the preservative, the essence and the water-soluble pigment into an emulsifying pot in sequence. After the feeding is finished, continuously stirring (20-50r/min) for 10-20 minutes, continuously stirring and cooling, and sampling and inspecting. After the product is qualified, the temperature is reduced to below 35 ℃, and the product is filtered and discharged by a filter cloth with 100 meshes.
Examples 7-12 Water-based cosmetic compositions capable of imparting pearlescent effect and long-lasting moisturizing effect
A long-lasting moisturizing water-based cosmetic giving pearlescence was prepared according to the contents (parts) of the components in Table 2 below and by the same procedure as in examples 1 to 6.
TABLE 2 (parts by weight)
Examples 13 to 18 Water-based cosmetic compositions capable of imparting pearlescent effect and long-lasting moisturizing effect
A long-lasting moisturizing water-based cosmetic giving pearlescence was prepared according to the contents (parts) of the components in Table 3 below and by the same procedure as in examples 1 to 6.
TABLE 3 (parts by weight)
Comparative examples 1 to 6 comparison of pearl effects
Water-based cosmetics were prepared according to the contents (parts) of the components in Table 4 below, and by the same procedures as in examples 1 to 6.
TABLE 4 (parts by weight)
Comparative examples 6 to 12 Long-acting moisturizing comparison of different moisturizing ingredients
Water-based cosmetics were prepared according to the contents (parts) of the components in Table 5 below, and according to the same procedures as in examples 1 to 6.
TABLE 5 (parts by weight)
Pearly luster Effect test
The samples prepared in comparative examples 1 to 6 and examples 1, 6 and 12 were allowed to stand at room temperature for 24 hours, and then tested by observing the appearance and using skin feel.
TABLE 6
Sample (I)
|
Appearance of the product
|
Feeling of use
|
Comparative example 1
|
Transparent liquid
|
Refreshing and no residue
|
Comparative example 2
|
Transparent liquid
|
Refreshing and no residue
|
Comparative example 3
|
With pearlescent crystalline liquid
|
Refreshing and no residue
|
Comparative example 4
|
With pearlescent crystalline liquid
|
Refreshing and no residue
|
Comparative example 5
|
Is divided into an upper layer and a lower layer, and the upper layer has pearly luster
|
Formulation instability
|
Comparative example 6
|
Liquid with pearly luster
|
Clear and cool with residue
|
Example 1
|
With pearlescent crystalline liquid
|
Refreshing and no residue
|
Example 6
|
With pearlescent crystalline liquid
|
Refreshing and no residue
|
Example 12
|
With pearlescent crystalline liquid
|
Refreshing and no residue |
From the comparative experiments of Table 6, it can be seen that comparative examples 3, 4, examples 1, 6, and 12, all containing soybean phospholipid liposomes, all produced pearlescent crystal appearance in water-based cosmetics without residue. Comparative example 5 contains synthetic pearlescent flake ethylene glycol distearate because the viscosity of the water-based cosmetic was too small to form a uniform pearlescent system. Comparative example 6 contains mica powder, which has a good pearl effect, but there is mica powder residue on the skin during the use of the formulation. Therefore, the water-based cosmetic capable of generating pearly luster for long-term moisture retention prepared by the method has the advantages of good appearance of pearly luster generating crystals, unique appearance and no residue.
Long term moisture retention test
The capacitance method is adopted to measure the moisture content of the human skin stratum corneum, and the capacitance value of the skin is measured to be different according to the difference of the moisture content of the skin stratum corneum based on the obvious difference of dielectric constants of water and other substances, so that the capacitance value can represent the moisture content of the skin.
Randomly selecting two calibration areas at corresponding positions of the inner sides of the two arms as water-based cosmetic application areas, and applying (2.0 +/-0.1) mg/cm2Examples 1, 6, 12, comparative examples 1 to 3, and comparative examples 7 to 12Skin moisture content test, in which a sample was uniformly applied using a latex finger cot, the water-based cosmetics prepared in examples 1, 6, 12, comparative examples 1 to 3, and comparative examples 7 to 12 were applied using a capacitance-based skin moisture meter to measure the area of application, and the initial value after uniform application and the moisture content of human skin horny layer were measured for 2 hours, 4 hours, 8 hours, 12 hours, and 24 hours, respectively, and the results are shown in table 7.
TABLE 7
From the comparative experiments in table 7, the experiments in comparative examples 1-3, examples 1, 6 and 12 show that the soybean phospholipid liposome and the Adansonia dubia seed extract have certain synergistic effect of increasing the long-acting moisturizing effect. Examples 1, 6 and 12 contain the soybean phospholipid liposome and the Adansonia dubia seed extract, and the long-acting moisturizing time is better than that of different moisturizing agents in comparative examples 7-8 and comparative examples 10-12. Examples 1, 6, 12 and comparative example 9 experimental tests to analyze that sodium hyaluronate is recognized as a superior moisturizing agent with better long-lasting moisturizing effect, the present application uses comparative examples 1, 6, 12 containing a combination of soybean phospholipid liposome and a terminalia championii seed extract and comparative example 9 containing 2% sodium hyaluronate to perform comparative experiments, the moisturizing performance of comparative example containing 2% sodium hyaluronate is better in the initial period of time, the long-lasting moisturizing performance of examples 1, 6, 12 containing a combination of soybean phospholipid liposome and a terminalia championii seed extract is not much different from that of comparative example 9 containing 2% sodium hyaluronate in 24 hours, and the long-lasting moisturizing performance of comparative example 9 containing 2% sodium hyaluronate is better, but the skin feeling of the aqueous solution is sticky and not favored by consumers. In addition, the sodium hyaluronate is limited by cost price and skin feeling in practical production application of cosmetics, and generally does not exceed 1% of usage amount, and in the design experiment of the invention, in order to keep the same weight parts of the humectant, the weight fraction of the sodium hyaluronate is 2%. The soybean phospholipid liposome and the Adansonia dubia seed extract are synergistic, so that the balanced expression of hyaluronic acid synthase HAS2 is maintained, the hyaluronic acid synthesis is promoted, the performance basically consistent with the long-acting moisture retention property of 2% sodium hyaluronate is achieved, and the skin feeling is fresh and not sticky. Therefore, the water cosmetic capable of generating pearly luster long-acting moisturizing prepared by the method has good long-acting moisturizing performance and fresh and cool use skin feeling.
Objective evaluation test
Five evaluations of freshness, no stickiness, moisture retention, skin adhesion and preference are set for the water cosmetics, the water cosmetics are tried by distributing samples, and then the tried products are scored, wherein the score is from 1 to 5. Score 5 is good, score 4 is good, score 3 is good, score 2 is general, and score 1 is poor. A total of 30 subjects were tested to complete the test between the age of 18 and 35 years, with 12 subjects with neutral skin, 5 subjects with oily skin, and 13 subjects with mixed skin. The results of objective evaluation tests conducted on example 6, comparative examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 7 to 12 are shown in FIG. 1.
From the comprehensive evaluation of fig. 1 and the experimental test of table 6, the long-acting moisturizing effect of example 6 is better, which indicates that the combination of the soybean phospholipid liposome and the Adansonia dubia seed extract has synergistically enhanced moisturizing performance, and the comprehensive evaluation of example 6 is the highest, so that the freshness, moisturizing performance and skin-adhering performance of the soybean phospholipid liposome can effectively meet the requirements of consumers. While comparative example 9 has a good moisturizing effect, it has poor skin-contacting, refreshing and sticky properties. Therefore, the water-based cosmetic capable of producing pearlescent long-acting moisturizing prepared by the method is better in objective evaluation of consumers.
Stability test
The water-based cosmetics capable of producing pearlescent long-lasting moisture retention prepared in examples 1 to 18 and comparative examples 1 to 12 were placed in a constant temperature closed dryer under conditions of a relative humidity of 75%, a light intensity of 4500lx and a temperature of 25 ℃ for 3 months and 6 months, respectively, and the results are shown in table 7 below.
TABLE 8
As can be seen from Table 8, after the lapse of 3 months, the water-based cosmetics prepared in examples 1 to 12 and examples 14 to 16 were found to be free from abnormalities; after standing for 6 months, no abnormality was observed. In the water-based cosmetics prepared in example 13 and examples 17 to 18, the weight fractions of the soybean phospholipid liposome were 0.8% and 9.0%, respectively, and 9.2%, which were out of the range of 1.0 to 8.0%, respectively, and were abnormal after 3 months and 6 months of storage. Therefore, the water-based cosmetic capable of generating pearly luster for long-acting moisturizing prepared by the method has good stability.
However, after 6 months, the water-based cosmetics prepared in comparative examples 5 to 6 all used other pearlescent products forming a pearlescent pattern, and had some abnormality in stability. It can be seen that the water-based cosmetic capable of generating pearly luster and long-acting moisturizing prepared by the method has outstanding stability in stability.