CN113143808A - Firming and repairing essence containing Adiantum henryi seed flower extract and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Firming and repairing essence containing Adiantum henryi seed flower extract and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
The invention is suitable for the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a firming and repairing essence containing a Paeonia suffruticosa seed flower extract and a preparation method thereof. The firming and repairing essence comprises a Paeonia suffruticosa seed flower extract, a taxus chinensis extract, astaxanthin, polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-6, sodium hyaluronate, PEG/PPG-14/7 dimethyl ether, glycerol, butanediol, EDTA disodium, betaine, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, phenoxyethanol, acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, acryloyl dimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer, xanthan gum, bioglycan-1, chlorphenesin, a skin conditioning and moisturizing composition, beta-glucan and water. The Adansonia dubia seed flower extract can inhibit the activity of elastase and has antioxidant activity, so that the prepared firming and repairing essence has a firming and repairing effect.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a firming and repairing essence containing a Paeonia suffruticosa seed flower extract and a preparation method thereof.
Background
Essence is an important member of facial skin care products. With the increase of age, the skin water-locking capacity is reduced to cause the reduction of skin moisture, the synthesis of collagen and elastin is reduced, the skin elasticity is poor, and the skin aging phenomenon appears; on the other hand, the antioxidant protection capacity is gradually weakened, and the oxidative aging and cell damage of cells are accelerated.
At present, the commercially available essence liquid is full of eyes, but the content of lead, mercury, benzene and phenol in most products exceeds the standard, although the skin can be temporarily bright and smooth, the cuticle can be peeled and thinned after long-term use, so that the skin is stained, and the skin health is not facilitated. Therefore, there are many anti-aging products on the domestic market: facial and eye tightening essences and the like, and few anti-aging products which can be trusted by customers and are really effective are available.
The Hedgehog hydnum is a large deciduous tree, the crown of the Hedgehog hydnum is huge, although the trunk of the Hedgehog hydnum is thick, the Hedgehog hydnum can successfully pass through dry seasons, the wood is very loose, and the Hedgehog hydnum is strong in outside, medium dry in surface and hard in inside. The wood is most beneficial to water storage, and in rainy season, the thick body and soft wood are used for replacing root systems, so that a large amount of water is absorbed and stored. The bark of Adansonia dubia is also rich in cellulose.
The fruit of Adansonia digitata is oblong, the pulp of Adansonia digitata is succulent, the Adansonia digitata contains organic acid and colloid, the calcium content is higher than that of spinach by more than 50%, the Adansonia digitata contains higher antioxidant components, and the vitamin C content is three times of that of a single orange. The seeds of Adansonia dubia can be used for squeezing edible oil. The pulp is wrapped with a plurality of seeds, the oil content of the seeds is up to 15%, and the seeds have higher antioxidant components. The sap of Adiantum montanum leaves has anti-inflammatory and skin caring effects.
Astaxanthin is the strongest antioxidant found in human beings so far in the nature, can remove excessive free radicals and protect cells from being damaged by the free radicals, so that the resistance of the body to external injury is improved, the antioxidant activity of the astaxanthin is far higher than that of the existing antioxidant, and the ability of the astaxanthin to remove the free radicals is 1000 times of that of natural VE. Astaxanthin also reduces lipid peroxidation, effectively inhibiting free radical-initiated lipid peroxidation. In addition, experiments show that the astaxanthin can increase the activity of antioxidant enzyme and the expression of protein, different doses of astaxanthin can obviously increase the expression of the protein of perhydrolase and superoxide dismutase in animal cells, the biological activity of the astaxanthin is obviously improved, and the substances have better antioxidant effect in vivo.
Facial skin elasticity and tensile strength are determined by the combination of elastic fibers and collagen fibers, elastin being an important component of elastic fibers, and although elastin represents only 2% of total dermal protein, it plays an important role in skin elasticity. Elastin is the primary cause of sagging, drooping and fine wrinkles of the skin as it ages naturally, the breakdown of elastic fibers becomes more and more pronounced. Many people think that how to supplement collagen is the key point for maintaining youthful skin, and elastin is more important. Elastin acts as a rubber band in the skin, allowing the skin to stretch and fold, and functions like a spring in a mattress to maintain and support the elasticity of the skin. Therefore, elastin plays an important role in maintaining skin elasticity.
The importance of preventing and treating elastin degradation for delaying skin aging can be seen, and the prevention and treatment of elastin degradation can be started from two aspects: firstly, the degradation of the elastin by the elastase is inhibited; secondly, the synthesis of functional elastin by skin fibroblasts is increased, and an elastic fiber structure is reconstructed. In terms of inhibiting the degradation of elastin by elastase, it is most effective to use an elastase inhibitor. Among them, in addition to inducing the synthesis of natural elastase inhibitors in vivo, some artificially synthesized elastase inhibitors are being developed, and natural enzyme inhibitors extracted from plants have been widely noticed in recent years. Such as flavanone and anthocyanin compounds, has inhibitory effect on various enzymes; at the same time they can interact with collagen and elastic fibers, thus protecting these protein fibers from enzymatic hydrolysis. Among other natural substances having inhibitory effects on elastase, the degradation product of elastase has a non-negligible inhibitory effect on elastase, and its inhibitory ability is proportional to its molecular weight. In addition, elastin has the functions of restructuring the elastic tissue structure of skin and moisturizing, and thus has been added to anti-aging cosmetics.
The acetyl hexapeptide-8 has the effects of resisting wrinkles and aging and improving the skin quality, and the action mechanism of the acetyl hexapeptide-8 is that the acetyl hexapeptide-8 participates in competition of SNAP-25 at the site of a vacuolar complex, so that the formation of the complex is influenced. When the vesicular complex is slightly unstable, the vesicles cannot effectively release neurotransmitters, thereby causing a decrease in muscle contraction and preventing the formation of wrinkles.
At present, the combination of the Adina pavonica seed flower extract, the taxus chinensis extract and the astaxanthin is not adopted in the market to be used as essence of main skin care components.
Disclosure of Invention
The first purpose of the embodiment of the invention is to provide a firming and repairing essence containing a Paeonia suffruticosa seed flower extract, so as to repair skin and stabilize skin balance, and achieve an anti-aging effect.
Another object of the present invention is to provide a method for preparing the firming and repairing essence containing the extract of the Adansonia dubia.
The embodiment of the invention is realized in such a way that the firming and repairing essence containing the Adiantum henryi seed flower extract comprises the following components in parts by weight:
further, the tightening and repairing essence containing the Adiantum henbane seed flower extract comprises the following components in parts by weight:
further, the preparation method of the Adansonia dubia seed flower extract comprises the following steps:
1) mixing the dried Adiantum henryi seeds and Adiantum henryi dried flowers according to the weight ratio of 3:1, and crushing to 20-30 meshes to obtain Adiantum henryi seed flower powder;
2) adding ultrapure water with the weight 5-6 times of the weight of the powder, mixing uniformly, sterilizing at 121 ℃ for 20min, and inoculating the compound bacteria with the inoculation amount of 18-25% to obtain a mixed solution;
3) culturing the mixed solution obtained in the step 2) in an incubator at 25 ℃ for 24-48h, drying in an oven at 50 ℃ for 48h to obtain a fermentation culture product, and storing at 4 ℃ for later use;
4) regulating the fermentation culture product obtained in the step 3) to the concentration of 80g/L by using ultrapure water, shaking the fermentation culture product for 30min at the rotating speed of 180rpm at the temperature of 35 ℃, centrifuging the fermentation culture product for 25min at the speed of 4000r/min, and taking supernatant to obtain the Adansonia dubia seed flower extract; the composite bacteria comprise saccharomycetes and bacillus according to the mass ratio of 1-2: 3.
Further, the composite bacteria comprise saccharomycetes and bacillus according to the mass ratio of 1: 3.
The extract of Adansonia dubia seed is useful for improving and maintaining skin homeostasis, reducing wrinkles, improving skin moisture retention, and inhibiting elastase activity.
The astaxanthin is a chain-breaking antioxidant, has strong oxidation resistance, can remove nitrogen dioxide, sulfide, disulfide and the like, can reduce lipid peroxidation, and effectively inhibits lipid peroxidation caused by free radicals. Because the free astaxanthin is easily oxidized, the phenomena of fading, reduction of antioxidant activity and the like are easily caused, and the service life and the effectiveness of the astaxanthin are influenced; researches show that the Adinandra millettii seed flower extract prepared by the invention has a protection effect on free astaxanthin, reduces the oxidation of the free astaxanthin, and greatly maintains the antioxidant activity of the astaxanthin.
The Taxus extract also contains taxol which can improve the circulation and metabolism of human body and remove the virus in human body to the outside of human body by diuresis and defecation. The yew also contains more than 90 components required by human body, and can effectively improve the immunity and antiviral ability of human body. The Taxus chinensis extract used in the present application is preferably Taxus chinensis extract 10-1 produced by Sairellii.
In the present invention, the combination of thickeners used is a combination of acrylic acid/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymer: acryloyldimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer: 0.05 part of xanthan gum: 0.06 part: 0.15 part; the thickening agent combination with the three component ratios ensures that the essence disclosed by the invention has proper viscosity and ensures high stability of the viscosity of the essence.
The skin conditioning and moisturizing composition is prepared from sea buckthorn (HIPPOPHAE RHAMNOIDES) fruit extract, rosemary (ROSMARINUS OFFICINALIS) leaf extract, DENDROBIUM officinale (DENDROBIUM CANDIDUM) extract, licorice (GLYCYRRHIZA URALENSIS) root extract and tea (CAMELLIA SINENSIS) extract according to the weight ratio of 0.05: 0.05 part of: 0.05 part of: 0.05 part of: 0.05 part by mass; the skin conditioning and moisturizing composition of the components adopts a mixture of pure natural functional extracts, has no irritation, and has remarkable comprehensive conditioning and moisturizing effects.
Furthermore, the biological carbohydrate gum-1 has multiple functions of a moisturizing agent, a wrinkle removing agent, a skin repairing agent and a skin feeling regulator, and can comprehensively improve the comprehensive properties of the essence.
Further, the humectant adopts sodium hyaluronate, PEG/PPG-14/7 dimethyl ether and 0.05 part of glycerin: 0.50 part: 0.20 part; the moisturizing performance of the sodium hyaluronate is slightly influenced by the surrounding environment, and the moisturizing agent in the proportion has a high moisturizing effect.
Furthermore, the beta-glucan is polysaccharide with the activity of enhancing immunity, and can increase the immunity activity of skin through penetration and absorption.
Further, the disodium EDTA is a chelating agent
Further, the PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil has the function of a solubilizer.
Furthermore, the phenoxyethanol has the function of a preservative.
Further, the acetyl hexapeptide-8 is an anti-aging small peptide which is composed of 6 amino acids, and can reduce the contraction of muscles by inhibiting the release of neurotransmitter acetylcholine, thereby reducing the generation of expression wrinkles; in addition, acetyl hexapeptide-8 can enhance the activity of skin collagen and elastin, relax facial expression, smooth wrinkles and improve skin laxity. Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4: is a bioactive peptide formed by dehydrating and condensing 5 amino acids, and has the functions of stimulating the generation of skin collagen, improving wrinkles and fine lines and better improving the anti-wrinkle capacity of the skin. The combination of the acetyl hexapeptide-8 and the palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 can realize the combined use effect, and after the Adinandra hybrida seed flower extract repairs the skin barrier, the combined polypeptide of the acetyl hexapeptide-8 and the palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 can reduce the skin fine lines and achieve the effects of combined synergism, firmness and wrinkle resistance.
The invention also aims to provide a preparation method of the firming and repairing essence containing the Adiantum henryi seed flower extract, which comprises the following steps:
A) mixing and heating butanediol, phenoxyethanol and chlorphenesin to 70-75 ℃, and uniformly stirring for later use;
B) adding sodium hyaluronate, disodium EDTA, betaine, glycerol and water into a vacuum emulsifying pot, heating to 90 ℃, homogenizing, keeping the temperature and stirring for 20 minutes until all materials are uniformly dispersed, and cooling;
C) cooling to 60-70 ℃, adding the mixture obtained in the step A), and uniformly stirring;
D) cooling to 50-60 deg.C, adding polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6 and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, stirring, adding PEG/PPG-14/7 dimethyl ether, and stirring;
E) cooling to 40-45 ℃, adding the Adinandra millettii seed flower extract, the yew extract, the astaxanthin, the acetyl hexapeptide-8, the palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, the acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, the ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, the xanthan gum, the biogel-1, the skin conditioning and moisturizing composition and the beta-glucan, and uniformly stirring to obtain the firming and repairing essence containing the Adinandra milletia millettii seed flower extract.
The Adansonia dubia seed flower extract obtained by the preparation method contains various active ingredients, and experimental data show that the Adansonia dubia seed leaf extract prepared by the fermentation of the composite bacteria can inhibit the activity of elastase and reduce the oxidation state of astaxanthin in a free state, but the effect of the Adansonia dubia seed flower extract obtained by the preparation method is not reported in the prior art.
Compared with the prior art, the technical scheme provided by the invention has the following beneficial effects:
1. the Adansonia dubia seed flower extract provided by the invention can inhibit the activity of elastase, has obvious antioxidant activity, has the effect of reducing the oxidation state of astaxanthin in a free state, has an obvious effect of improving the tightening and repairing essence, and has the effect of improving the antioxidant effect of astaxanthin.
2. The thickener combinations used in the present invention employ acrylates/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymers: acryloyldimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer: 0.05 part of xanthan gum: 0.06 part: 0.15 part; the thickening agent combination with the three component ratios ensures that the essence disclosed by the invention has proper viscosity and ensures high stability of the viscosity of the essence.
3. The skin conditioning and moisturizing composition used by the invention is prepared from 0.05 parts of seabuckthorn (HIPPOPHAE RHAMNOIDES) fruit extract, rosemary (ROSMARINUS OFFICINALIS) leaf extract, DENDROBIUM officinale (DENDROBIUM candicum) extract, liquorice (GLYCYRRHIZA URALENSIS) root extract and tea (CAMELLIA SINENSIS) extract: 0.05 part of: 0.05 part of: 0.05 part of: 0.05 part by mass; the skin conditioning and moisturizing composition of the components adopts a mixture of pure natural functional extracts, has no irritation, and has remarkable comprehensive conditioning and moisturizing effects.
4. The invention further adopts the humectant which is prepared from sodium hyaluronate, PEG/PPG-14/7 dimethyl ether and glycerol in 0.05 part: 0.50 part: 0.20 part of a stabilizer; the moisturizing performance of the sodium hyaluronate is slightly influenced by the surrounding environment, and the moisturizing agent in the proportion has a high moisturizing effect.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a graph showing the results of the elastase inhibitory activity of the Adansonia dubia extract prepared in example 1. Wherein water a, extract of the seed of the bushy monkey B, extract of the bushy monkey C (fruit), D product of example 1: firming and repairing essence containing extract of Adansonia dubia seed, comparative example 1 product: firming and repairing essence containing Adiantum henryi extract (fruit).
Detailed Description
The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below with reference to the drawings in the embodiments of the present invention, and it is obvious that the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all of the embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.
Example 1
The embodiment of the invention is realized in such a way that the firming and repairing essence containing the Adiantum henryi seed flower extract comprises the following components in parts by weight:
further, the preparation method of the Adansonia dubia seed flower extract comprises the following steps:
1) mixing the dried Adiantum henryi seeds and Adiantum henryi dried flowers according to the weight ratio of 3:1, and crushing to 20-30 meshes to obtain Adiantum henryi seed flower powder;
2) adding ultrapure water with the weight 5-6 times of the weight of the powder, mixing uniformly, sterilizing at 121 ℃ for 20min, and inoculating the compound bacteria with the inoculation amount of 18-25% to obtain a mixed solution;
3) culturing the mixed solution obtained in the step 2) in an incubator at 25 ℃ for 24-48h, drying in an oven at 50 ℃ for 48h to obtain a fermentation culture product, and storing at 4 ℃ for later use;
4) regulating the fermentation culture product obtained in the step 3) to the concentration of 80g/L by using ultrapure water, shaking the fermentation culture product for 30min at the rotating speed of 180rpm at the temperature of 35 ℃, centrifuging the fermentation culture product for 25min at the speed of 4000r/min, and taking supernatant to obtain the Adansonia dubia seed flower extract; the composite bacteria comprise saccharomycetes and bacillus according to the mass ratio of 1: 3.
The Taxus chinensis extract used in the present application is preferably Taxus chinensis extract 10-1 produced by Sairellii.
The skin conditioning and moisturizing composition is prepared from sea buckthorn (HIPPOPHAE RHAMNOIDES) fruit extract, rosemary (ROSMARINUS OFFICINALIS) leaf extract, DENDROBIUM officinale (DENDROBIUM CANDIDUM) extract, licorice (GLYCYRRHIZA URALENSIS) root extract and tea (CAMELLIA SINENSIS) extract according to the weight ratio of 0.05: 0.05 part of: 0.05 part of: 0.05 part of: 0.05 part by mass; the skin conditioning and moisturizing composition of the components adopts a mixture of pure natural functional extracts, has no irritation, and has remarkable comprehensive conditioning and moisturizing effects.
The embodiment also provides a preparation method of the firming and repairing essence containing the Adiantum henryi seed flower extract, which comprises the following steps:
A) mixing and heating butanediol, phenoxyethanol and chlorphenesin to 70-75 ℃, and uniformly stirring for later use;
B) adding sodium hyaluronate, disodium EDTA, betaine, glycerol and water into a vacuum emulsifying pot, heating to 90 ℃, homogenizing, keeping the temperature and stirring for 20 minutes until all materials are uniformly dispersed, and cooling;
C) cooling to 60-70 ℃, adding the mixture obtained in the step A), and uniformly stirring;
D) cooling to 50-60 deg.C, adding polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6 and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, stirring, adding PEG/PPG-14/7 dimethyl ether, and stirring;
E) cooling to 40-45 ℃, adding the Adinandra millettii seed flower extract, the taxus chinensis extract, the astaxanthin, the acetyl hexapeptide-8, the palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, the acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, the ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, the xanthan gum, the biogel-1, the skin conditioning and moisturizing composition and the beta-glucan, and uniformly stirring to obtain the firming and repairing essence containing the Adinandra millii seed flower extract (the product of example 1).
Example 2
The embodiment of the invention is realized in such a way that the firming and repairing essence containing the Adiantum henryi seed flower extract comprises the following components in parts by weight:
further, the preparation method of the Adansonia dubia seed flower extract comprises the following steps:
1) mixing the dried Adiantum henryi seeds and Adiantum henryi dried flowers according to the weight ratio of 3:1, and crushing to 20-30 meshes to obtain Adiantum henryi seed flower powder;
2) adding ultrapure water with the weight 5-6 times of the weight of the powder, mixing uniformly, sterilizing at 121 ℃ for 20min, and inoculating the compound bacteria with the inoculation amount of 18-25% to obtain a mixed solution;
3) culturing the mixed solution obtained in the step 2) in an incubator at 25 ℃ for 24-48h, drying in an oven at 50 ℃ for 48h to obtain a fermentation culture product, and storing at 4 ℃ for later use;
4) regulating the fermentation culture product obtained in the step 3) to the concentration of 80g/L by using ultrapure water, shaking the fermentation culture product for 30min at the rotating speed of 180rpm at the temperature of 35 ℃, centrifuging the fermentation culture product for 25min at the speed of 4000r/min, and taking supernatant to obtain the Adansonia dubia seed flower extract; the composite bacteria comprise saccharomycetes and bacillus according to the mass ratio of 1: 3.
The Taxus chinensis extract used in the present application is preferably Taxus chinensis extract 10-1 produced by Sairellii.
The skin conditioning and moisturizing composition is prepared from sea buckthorn (HIPPOPHAE RHAMNOIDES) fruit extract, rosemary (ROSMARINUS OFFICINALIS) leaf extract, DENDROBIUM officinale (DENDROBIUM CANDIDUM) extract, licorice (GLYCYRRHIZA URALENSIS) root extract and tea (CAMELLIA SINENSIS) extract according to the weight ratio of 0.05: 0.05 part of: 0.05 part of: 0.05 part of: 0.05 part by mass; the skin conditioning and moisturizing composition of the components adopts a mixture of pure natural functional extracts, has no irritation, and has remarkable comprehensive conditioning and moisturizing effects.
The embodiment also provides a preparation method of the firming and repairing essence containing the Adiantum henryi seed flower extract, which comprises the following steps:
A) mixing and heating butanediol, phenoxyethanol and chlorphenesin to 70-75 ℃, and uniformly stirring for later use;
B) adding sodium hyaluronate, disodium EDTA, betaine, glycerol and water into a vacuum emulsifying pot, heating to 90 ℃, homogenizing, keeping the temperature and stirring for 20 minutes until all materials are uniformly dispersed, and cooling;
C) cooling to 60-70 ℃, adding the mixture obtained in the step A), and uniformly stirring;
D) cooling to 50-60 deg.C, adding polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6 and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, stirring, adding PEG/PPG-14/7 dimethyl ether, and stirring;
E) cooling to 40-45 ℃, adding the Adinandra millettii seed flower extract, the taxus chinensis extract, the astaxanthin, the acetyl hexapeptide-8, the palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, the acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, the ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, the xanthan gum, the biogel-1, the skin conditioning and moisturizing composition and the beta-glucan, and uniformly stirring to obtain the firming and repairing essence containing the Adinandra millii seed flower extract (the product of example 2).
Comparative example 1
This comparative example 1 was prepared by replacing "extract of Adansonia dubia seed" in example 1 with commercially available Adansonia dubia extract (fruit) (Sinuot-Adansonia dubia extract), and the other components and preparation method were the same as in example 1. Comparative example 1 was prepared.
Comparative example 2
This comparative example 2 was prepared by replacing "extract of Adansonia dubia seed" in example 1 with Adansonia dubia seed extract, and the other components and preparation method were the same as in example 1. Comparative example 2 was prepared.
The preparation method of the Adansonia dubia seed extract comprises the following steps:
1) crushing the dried macaque nut seeds to 20-30 meshes to obtain macaque nut seed powder;
2) adding ultrapure water with the weight 5-6 times of the weight of the powder, mixing uniformly, sterilizing at 121 ℃ for 20min, and inoculating the compound bacteria with the inoculation amount of 18-25% to obtain a mixed solution;
3) culturing the mixed solution obtained in the step 2) in an incubator at 25 ℃ for 24-48h, drying in an oven at 50 ℃ for 48h to obtain a fermentation culture product, and storing at 4 ℃ for later use;
4) regulating the fermentation culture product obtained in the step 3) to the concentration of 80g/L by using ultrapure water, shaking the fermentation culture product for 30min at the rotating speed of 180rpm at the temperature of 35 ℃, centrifuging the fermentation culture product for 25min at the speed of 4000r/min, and taking supernatant to obtain the Adansonia dubia seed extract; the composite bacteria comprise saccharomycetes and bacillus according to the mass ratio of 1: 3.
Comparative example 3
This comparative example 3 the "extract of Adiantum montanum seed" in example 1 was replaced with Adiantum montanum extract, and the other components and preparation method were the same as in example 1. Comparative example 3 was prepared.
The preparation method of the Adansonia dubia extract comprises the following steps:
1) crushing the dried macaque tree dried flowers to 20-30 meshes to obtain macaque tree pollen powder;
2) adding ultrapure water with the weight 5-6 times of the weight of the powder, mixing uniformly, sterilizing at 121 ℃ for 20min, and inoculating the compound bacteria with the inoculation amount of 18-25% to obtain a mixed solution;
3) culturing the mixed solution obtained in the step 2) in an incubator at 25 ℃ for 24-48h, drying in an oven at 50 ℃ for 48h to obtain a fermentation culture product, and storing at 4 ℃ for later use;
4) regulating the fermentation culture product obtained in the step 3) to the concentration of 80g/L by using ultrapure water, shaking the fermentation culture product for 30min at the rotating speed of 180rpm at the temperature of 35 ℃, centrifuging the fermentation culture product for 25min at the speed of 4000r/min, and taking supernatant to obtain the Adansonia dubia seed extract; the composite bacteria comprise saccharomycetes and bacillus according to the mass ratio of 1: 3.
Comparative example 4
Comparative example 4 yeast was used as a fermentation strain when "extract of Adansonia similis seed" in example 1 was extracted, and other components and preparation methods were the same as those in example 1. Comparative example 4 was prepared.
Comparative example 5
Comparative example 4 the "extract of Adiantum montanum seed" in example 1 was extracted using Bacillus as the fermentation strain, and the other components and preparation method were the same as in example 1. Comparative example 5 was prepared.
Detection example 1: elastase activity inhibition assay:
detecting the inhibition effect of the Adansonia dubia seed flower extract on the activity of elastase:
the detection reaction buffer used was 0.1M HEPES, 0.5M NaCl (pH 7.5).
As an elastase substrate for detection, oxosuccinyl- (Ala)2-Pro-Val-MCA was dissolved in DMSO so as to be 80mM, and the solution was diluted to 0.16mM with a reaction buffer.
Elastase derived from human white blood cells (ELASTIN PRODUCT co., inc. cat No. ck828) was diluted to 5 μ g/mL with reaction buffer.
To a 96-well plate, 25. mu.L of each of 0.16mM elastase substrate was dispensed, and 50. mu.L of ultrapure water, 50. mu.L of Adianthus divaricatus seed extract, 50. mu.L of Adianthus divaricatus extract (fruit) (Sinot-Adianthus divaricatus extract, extract: ultrapure water 1:10 blend), 50. mu.L of firming and caring essence containing Adianthus divaricatus seed extract (product of example 1), and 50. mu.L of comparative example 1 (firming and caring essence containing Adianthus divaricatus extract (fruit)) were added. Then, 25. mu.L of 5. mu.g/ml elastase was added to ice, incubated at 37 ℃ for 60 minutes, and then the fluorescence at 460nm was measured with an excitation wavelength of 369 nm.
The results are shown in fig. 1, and it can be seen in the result graph that the macaque flower extract and the firming and repairing essence containing the macaque flower extract (the product of example 1) have significant elastase inhibition effects, and compared with the control group water, the enzyme activities of the macaque flower extract and the firming and repairing essence containing the macaque flower extract after inhibition respectively reach 56% and 68%; the commercially available firming and repairing essence of Ilium verum extract (fruit) and comparative example 1 did not achieve significant elastase inhibitory effect.
Detection example 2: and (3) oxidation resistance measurement:
antioxidant assay was performed on the extract of Adansonia dubia, the commercially available Adansonia dubia extract (fruit) (Sinot-Adansonia dubia extract, extract: ultrapure water 1:10 mix), the firming and repairing essence containing Adansonia dubia extract (product of example 1), and the product of comparative example 1 (firming and repairing essence containing Adansonia dubia extract (fruit)) by DPPH method.
The DPPH determination method comprises the following specific steps:
weighing 3.90mg of DPPH in a 100mL volumetric flask, fixing the volume with absolute ethyl alcohol, and performing ultrasonic treatment for 80 min; mixing the DPPH with the same volume and a sample to be detected in an EP tube, shaking up, and placing for 30min in a dark place; centrifuging the mixed solution at 5000rpm for 10min, collecting supernatant 150 microliters in a 96-well plate, and performing absorbance detection at wavelength of 517 nm; wherein ultrapure water is used as a blank control, and vitamin C is used as a positive control. DPPH radical clearance was:
DPPH free radical scavenging ratio%Measuring/AAir-to-air pair)×100%。
Wherein A isMeasuringIs the light absorption value of the sample, AAir-to-air pairThe absorbance of the blank control is shown, and the higher the clearance rate is, the stronger the antioxidant activity is. The antioxidant activities of the compounds (I) and (II) were measured and calculated by DPPH method, and vitamin C having very strong antioxidant activity was used as a positive control for comparison, and the results are shown in table 1 below.
TABLE 1DPPH radical scavenging Rate determination and results of evaluation of smearing Effect
Sample to be tested | DPPH radical scavenging Rate% | Evaluation of Using Effect (score) |
|
0 | / |
Extract of Adonis amurensis seed flower | 21.23 | / |
Extract (fruit) of commercially |
0 | / |
Example 1 product | 53.13 | 5 |
Comparative example 1 product | 23.62 | 3 |
Comparative example 2 product | 10.26 | 3 |
Comparative example 3 product | 5.32 | 2 |
Comparative example 4 product | 6.31 | 2 |
Comparative example 5 product | 2.13 | 1 |
Vitamin C (Positive control) | 54.34 | / |
The determination result shows that the Adinandra millettii seed flower extract obtained by the preparation method has a free radical scavenging effect and shows antioxidant performance; the commercially available Adansonia dubia extract (fruit) has no antioxidant properties; although the product of comparative example 1 is not added with the Adansonia dubia extract, the antioxidant components such as astaxanthin and the like contained in the product can still have partial antioxidant property; the product of example 1 has a radical scavenging effect greatly improved compared with the extract of Adiantum bunaei seed flower alone and the product of comparative example 1, and the product of example 1 has a better antioxidant effect than the sum of the extract of Adiantum bunaei seed flower and the product of comparative example 1. Researches show that the Adinandra millettii seed flower extract prepared by the invention has a protection effect on free astaxanthin besides the oxidation resistance effect of the Adinandra milletii seed flower extract, reduces the oxidation of the free astaxanthin, and greatly keeps the oxidation resistance activity of the astaxanthin; therefore, the product of example 1 of the application has extremely strong oxidation resistance due to the addition of the Adansonia dubia seed extract and the comprehensive effect of the Adansonia dubia seed extract and other components. And from the results of DPPH radical scavenging of the product of comparative example 2 and the product of comparative example 3, the radical scavenging rate of the seed or dried flower component alone is also low; from the results of DPPH radical scavenging rates of comparative example 4 and comparative example 5, yeast or Bacillus alone, as a fermentative species, was used in a large difference from the complex species of example 1.
The obtained firming and repairing essence is subjected to use effect evaluation, and a use effect rating result of a customer when the essence is used is obtained (a blind measurement method is adopted, the use amount is 3 drops at each time), wherein: the effect is good in 5 parts, good in use effect in 4 parts, general in use effect in 3 parts, poor in use effect in 2 parts and extremely poor in use effect in 1 part. The evaluation results in table 1 show that the firming and repairing essence of example 1 in the present application has the best experience in use effect.
In the present invention, the combination of thickeners used is a combination of acrylic acid/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymer: acryloyldimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer: 0.05 part of xanthan gum: 0.06 part: 0.15 part; the thickening agent combination with the three component ratios ensures that the essence disclosed by the invention has proper viscosity and ensures high stability of the viscosity of the essence.
The acetyl hexapeptide-8 is an anti-aging small peptide, consists of 6 amino acids, and can reduce the contraction of muscles by inhibiting the release of neurotransmitter acetylcholine, so that the generation of expression wrinkles is reduced; in addition, acetyl hexapeptide-8 can enhance the activity of skin collagen and elastin, relax facial expression, smooth wrinkles and improve skin laxity. Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4: is a bioactive peptide formed by dehydrating and condensing 5 amino acids, and has the functions of stimulating the generation of skin collagen, improving wrinkles and fine lines and better improving the anti-wrinkle capacity of the skin. The combination of the acetyl hexapeptide-8 and the palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 can realize the combined use effect, and after the Adinandra hybrida seed flower extract repairs the skin barrier, the combined polypeptide of the acetyl hexapeptide-8 and the palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 can reduce the skin fine lines and achieve the effects of combined synergism, firmness and wrinkle resistance.
The Adansonia dubia seed flower extract obtained by the preparation method contains various active ingredients, and experimental data show that the Adansonia dubia seed leaf extract prepared by the fermentation of the composite bacteria can inhibit the activity of elastase and reduce the oxidation state of astaxanthin in a free state, but the effect of the Adansonia dubia seed flower extract obtained by the preparation method is not reported in the prior art.
The Adansonia dubia seed flower extract obtained by the preparation method contains various active ingredients, and experimental data show that the Adansonia dubia seed leaf extract prepared by the fermentation of the composite bacteria can inhibit the activity of elastase and reduce the oxidation state of astaxanthin in a free state, but the effect of the Adansonia dubia seed flower extract obtained by the preparation method is not reported in the prior art.
Compared with the prior art, the technical scheme provided by the invention has the following beneficial effects:
1. the Adansonia dubia seed flower extract provided by the invention can inhibit the activity of elastase, has obvious antioxidant activity, has the effect of reducing the oxidation state of astaxanthin in a free state, has an obvious effect of improving the firming and repairing essence, and has the effect of improving the antioxidant effect of astaxanthin.
2. The thickener combinations used in the present invention employ acrylates/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymers: acryloyldimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer: 0.05 part of xanthan gum: 0.06 part: 0.15 part; the thickening agent combination with the three component ratios ensures that the essence disclosed by the invention has proper viscosity and ensures high stability of the viscosity of the essence.
3. The skin conditioning and moisturizing composition used by the invention is prepared from 0.05 parts of seabuckthorn (HIPPOPHAE RHAMNOIDES) fruit extract, rosemary (ROSMARINUS OFFICINALIS) leaf extract, DENDROBIUM officinale (DENDROBIUM candicum) extract, liquorice (GLYCYRRHIZA URALENSIS) root extract and tea (CAMELLIA SINENSIS) extract: 0.05 part of: 0.05 part of: 0.05 part of: 0.05 part by mass; the skin conditioning and moisturizing composition of the components adopts a mixture of pure natural functional extracts, has no irritation, and has remarkable comprehensive conditioning and moisturizing effects.
4. The invention further adopts the humectant which is prepared from sodium hyaluronate, PEG/PPG-14/7 dimethyl ether and glycerol in 0.05 part: 0.50 part: 0.20 part of a stabilizer; the moisturizing performance of the sodium hyaluronate is slightly influenced by the surrounding environment, and the moisturizing agent in the proportion has a high moisturizing effect.
The above description is only for the purpose of illustrating the preferred embodiments of the present invention and is not to be construed as limiting the invention, and any modifications, equivalents and improvements made within the spirit and principle of the present invention are intended to be included within the scope of the present invention.
Claims (7)
3. the tightening repair essence containing a Adansonia dubia seed flower extract according to claim 1, wherein: the preparation method of the Adansonia dubia seed flower extract comprises the following steps:
1) mixing the dried Adiantum henryi seeds and Adiantum henryi dried flowers according to the weight ratio of 3:1, and crushing to 20-30 meshes to obtain Adiantum henryi seed flower powder;
2) adding ultrapure water with the weight 5-6 times of the weight of the powder, mixing uniformly, sterilizing at 121 ℃ for 20min, and inoculating the compound bacteria with the inoculation amount of 18-25% to obtain a mixed solution;
3) culturing the mixed solution obtained in the step 2) in an incubator at 25 ℃ for 24-48h, drying in an oven at 50 ℃ for 48h to obtain a fermentation culture product, and storing at 4 ℃ for later use;
4) adjusting the fermentation culture product obtained in the step 3) to the concentration of 80g/L by using ultrapure water, shaking the fermentation culture product for 30min at the rotating speed of 180rpm at the temperature of 35 ℃, centrifuging the fermentation culture product for 25min at the speed of 4000r/min, and taking supernatant fluid to obtain the Adansonia dubia seed flower extract.
4. The tightening repair essence containing a Adansonia dubia seed flower extract according to claim 3, wherein: the composite bacteria comprise saccharomycetes and bacillus according to the mass ratio of 1-2: 3.
5. The tightening repair essence containing a Adansonia dubia seed flower extract according to claim 3, wherein: the composite bacteria comprise saccharomycetes and bacillus according to the mass ratio of 1: 3.
6. The tightening repair essence containing a Adansonia dubia seed flower extract according to claim 1, wherein: the skin conditioning and moisturizing composition is prepared from a seabuckthorn fruit extract, a rosemary leaf extract, a dendrobium officinale extract, a licorice root extract and a tea extract in parts by weight of 0.05: 0.05 part of: 0.05 part of: 0.05 part of: 0.05 part by mass.
7. The process for preparing the firming and repairing essence containing the Adansonia dubia extract as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 6, comprising the steps of:
A) mixing and heating butanediol, phenoxyethanol and chlorphenesin to 70-75 ℃, and uniformly stirring for later use;
B) adding sodium hyaluronate, disodium EDTA, betaine, glycerol and water into a vacuum emulsifying pot, heating to 90 ℃, homogenizing, keeping the temperature and stirring for 20 minutes until all materials are uniformly dispersed, and cooling;
C) cooling to 60-70 ℃, adding the mixture obtained in the step A), and uniformly stirring;
D) cooling to 50-60 deg.C, adding polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6 and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, stirring, adding PEG/PPG-14/7 dimethyl ether, and stirring;
E) cooling to 40-45 ℃, adding the Adinandra millettii seed flower extract, the yew extract, the astaxanthin, the acetyl hexapeptide-8, the palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, the acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, the ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, the xanthan gum, the biogel-1, the skin conditioning and moisturizing composition and the beta-glucan, and uniformly stirring to obtain the firming and repairing essence containing the Adinandra milletia millettii seed flower extract.
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