CN114599345A - 头发定型制剂 - Google Patents
头发定型制剂 Download PDFInfo
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- CN114599345A CN114599345A CN201980100719.3A CN201980100719A CN114599345A CN 114599345 A CN114599345 A CN 114599345A CN 201980100719 A CN201980100719 A CN 201980100719A CN 114599345 A CN114599345 A CN 114599345A
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- 210000004209 hair Anatomy 0.000 title claims abstract description 68
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 20
- 239000003995 emulsifying agent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 47
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 39
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 32
- 230000008719 thickening Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 claims description 149
- 238000009472 formulation Methods 0.000 claims description 106
- VBICKXHEKHSIBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-monostearoylglycerol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(O)CO VBICKXHEKHSIBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 38
- -1 aromatic carboxylic acids Chemical class 0.000 claims description 29
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 23
- DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Propylene glycol Chemical compound CC(O)CO DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 21
- 229940075507 glyceryl monostearate Drugs 0.000 claims description 16
- 239000001788 mono and diglycerides of fatty acids Substances 0.000 claims description 16
- 229920000435 poly(dimethylsiloxane) Polymers 0.000 claims description 16
- WHNWPMSKXPGLAX-UHFFFAOYSA-N N-Vinyl-2-pyrrolidone Chemical compound C=CN1CCCC1=O WHNWPMSKXPGLAX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 15
- 239000003906 humectant Substances 0.000 claims description 15
- 229920001577 copolymer Polymers 0.000 claims description 14
- 239000004205 dimethyl polysiloxane Substances 0.000 claims description 14
- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 claims description 14
- FBPFZTCFMRRESA-FSIIMWSLSA-N D-Glucitol Natural products OC[C@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)CO FBPFZTCFMRRESA-FSIIMWSLSA-N 0.000 claims description 13
- FBPFZTCFMRRESA-JGWLITMVSA-N D-glucitol Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)CO FBPFZTCFMRRESA-JGWLITMVSA-N 0.000 claims description 13
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 claims description 13
- 239000000600 sorbitol Substances 0.000 claims description 13
- 235000010356 sorbitol Nutrition 0.000 claims description 13
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 claims description 12
- NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-M Acrylate Chemical compound [O-]C(=O)C=C NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 10
- 150000001336 alkenes Chemical class 0.000 claims description 9
- 229940073669 ceteareth 20 Drugs 0.000 claims description 9
- 229920006395 saturated elastomer Polymers 0.000 claims description 9
- 229910019142 PO4 Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 8
- HVUMOYIDDBPOLL-XWVZOOPGSA-N Sorbitan monostearate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](O)[C@H]1OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1O HVUMOYIDDBPOLL-XWVZOOPGSA-N 0.000 claims description 8
- 229940081733 cetearyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 claims description 8
- 150000002191 fatty alcohols Chemical class 0.000 claims description 8
- 235000011187 glycerol Nutrition 0.000 claims description 8
- UBHWBODXJBSFLH-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecan-1-ol;octadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO.CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO UBHWBODXJBSFLH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 8
- 239000010452 phosphate Substances 0.000 claims description 8
- NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K phosphate Chemical compound [O-]P([O-])([O-])=O NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 claims description 8
- 229950011392 sorbitan stearate Drugs 0.000 claims description 8
- 239000006071 cream Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- WWZKQHOCKIZLMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N octanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCC(O)=O WWZKQHOCKIZLMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 7
- 229920001223 polyethylene glycol Polymers 0.000 claims description 7
- NLMKTBGFQGKQEV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-(2-hexadecoxyethoxy)ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethanol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCO NLMKTBGFQGKQEV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M Ilexoside XXIX Chemical compound C[C@@H]1CC[C@@]2(CC[C@@]3(C(=CC[C@H]4[C@]3(CC[C@@H]5[C@@]4(CC[C@@H](C5(C)C)OS(=O)(=O)[O-])C)C)[C@@H]2[C@]1(C)O)C)C(=O)O[C@H]6[C@@H]([C@H]([C@@H]([C@H](O6)CO)O)O)O.[Na+] DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M 0.000 claims description 6
- QAOWNCQODCNURD-UHFFFAOYSA-L Sulfate Chemical compound [O-]S([O-])(=O)=O QAOWNCQODCNURD-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 6
- SFNALCNOMXIBKG-UHFFFAOYSA-N ethylene glycol monododecyl ether Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCOCCO SFNALCNOMXIBKG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- JRZJOMJEPLMPRA-UHFFFAOYSA-N olefin Natural products CCCCCCCC=C JRZJOMJEPLMPRA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000011734 sodium Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 229910052708 sodium Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000002202 Polyethylene glycol Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 150000001298 alcohols Chemical class 0.000 claims description 5
- 229920006317 cationic polymer Polymers 0.000 claims description 5
- GHBFNMLVSPCDGN-UHFFFAOYSA-N rac-1-monooctanoylglycerol Chemical compound CCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(O)CO GHBFNMLVSPCDGN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- JNYAEWCLZODPBN-JGWLITMVSA-N (2r,3r,4s)-2-[(1r)-1,2-dihydroxyethyl]oxolane-3,4-diol Chemical compound OC[C@@H](O)[C@H]1OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1O JNYAEWCLZODPBN-JGWLITMVSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- ASKIVFGGGGIGKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2,3-dihydroxypropyl 16-methylheptadecanoate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(O)CO ASKIVFGGGGIGKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- ILCOCZBHMDEIAI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(2-octadecoxyethoxy)ethanol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOCCOCCO ILCOCZBHMDEIAI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- FKOKUHFZNIUSLW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-Hydroxypropyl stearate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(C)O FKOKUHFZNIUSLW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- ZITBHNVGLSVXEF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-[2-(16-methylheptadecoxy)ethoxy]ethanol Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOCCOCCO ZITBHNVGLSVXEF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- SVTBMSDMJJWYQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-methylpentane-2,4-diol Chemical compound CC(O)CC(C)(C)O SVTBMSDMJJWYQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- ICIDSZQHPUZUHC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-octadecoxyethanol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOCCO ICIDSZQHPUZUHC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- RMTFNDVZYPHUEF-XZBKPIIZSA-N 3-O-methyl-D-glucose Chemical compound O=C[C@H](O)[C@@H](OC)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)CO RMTFNDVZYPHUEF-XZBKPIIZSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 229920001908 Hydrogenated starch hydrolysate Polymers 0.000 claims description 4
- 229920002884 Laureth 4 Polymers 0.000 claims description 4
- DLRVVLDZNNYCBX-UHFFFAOYSA-N Polydextrose Polymers OC1C(O)C(O)C(CO)OC1OCC1C(O)C(O)C(O)C(O)O1 DLRVVLDZNNYCBX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- XSQUKJJJFZCRTK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Urea Chemical compound NC(N)=O XSQUKJJJFZCRTK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- XTXRWKRVRITETP-UHFFFAOYSA-N Vinyl acetate Chemical compound CC(=O)OC=C XTXRWKRVRITETP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- WPYMKLBDIGXBTP-UHFFFAOYSA-N benzoic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 WPYMKLBDIGXBTP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000004359 castor oil Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 235000019438 castor oil Nutrition 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000003093 cationic surfactant Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 229920006037 cross link polymer Polymers 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000012530 fluid Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- ZEMPKEQAKRGZGQ-XOQCFJPHSA-N glycerol triricinoleate Natural products CCCCCC[C@@H](O)CC=CCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](COC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CC[C@@H](O)CCCCCC)OC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CC[C@H](O)CCCCCC ZEMPKEQAKRGZGQ-XOQCFJPHSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- IIRDTKBZINWQAW-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexaethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCO IIRDTKBZINWQAW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 229920001519 homopolymer Polymers 0.000 claims description 4
- JVTAAEKCZFNVCJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N lactic acid Chemical compound CC(O)C(O)=O JVTAAEKCZFNVCJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 229940061515 laureth-4 Drugs 0.000 claims description 4
- 229940100460 peg-100 stearate Drugs 0.000 claims description 4
- 229940032067 peg-20 stearate Drugs 0.000 claims description 4
- 229920000223 polyglycerol Polymers 0.000 claims description 4
- 229940098760 steareth-2 Drugs 0.000 claims description 4
- 229920001897 terpolymer Polymers 0.000 claims description 4
- URAYPUMNDPQOKB-UHFFFAOYSA-N triacetin Chemical compound CC(=O)OCC(OC(C)=O)COC(C)=O URAYPUMNDPQOKB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- UFTFJSFQGQCHQW-UHFFFAOYSA-N triformin Chemical compound O=COCC(OC=O)COC=O UFTFJSFQGQCHQW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- RZRNAYUHWVFMIP-KTKRTIGZSA-N 1-oleoylglycerol Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(O)CO RZRNAYUHWVFMIP-KTKRTIGZSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- RFVNOJDQRGSOEL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-hydroxyethyl octadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCCO RFVNOJDQRGSOEL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000002961 Aloe barbadensis Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- 241000195940 Bryophyta Species 0.000 claims description 3
- ARIWANIATODDMH-UHFFFAOYSA-N Lauric acid monoglyceride Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(O)CO ARIWANIATODDMH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920002367 Polyisobutene Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000021355 Stearic acid Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 150000007513 acids Chemical class 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000011399 aloe vera Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- 229960000541 cetyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 claims description 3
- GPLRAVKSCUXZTP-UHFFFAOYSA-N diglycerol Chemical compound OCC(O)COCC(O)CO GPLRAVKSCUXZTP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000011929 mousse Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- OQCDKBAXFALNLD-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoic acid Natural products CCCCCCCC(C)CCCCCCCCC(O)=O OQCDKBAXFALNLD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000007921 spray Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000008117 stearic acid Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N (+/-)-1,3-Butanediol Chemical compound CC(O)CCO PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- JWYVGKFDLWWQJX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-ethenylazepan-2-one Chemical compound C=CN1CCCCCC1=O JWYVGKFDLWWQJX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- HBXWUCXDUUJDRB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-octadecoxyoctadecane Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC HBXWUCXDUUJDRB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- IIZPXYDJLKNOIY-JXPKJXOSSA-N 1-palmitoyl-2-arachidonoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphocholine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@H](COP([O-])(=O)OCC[N+](C)(C)C)OC(=O)CCC\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/CCCCC IIZPXYDJLKNOIY-JXPKJXOSSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- ULQISTXYYBZJSJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 12-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCC(O)CCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O ULQISTXYYBZJSJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 229940114069 12-hydroxystearate Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- XDOFQFKRPWOURC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 16-methylheptadecanoic acid Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O XDOFQFKRPWOURC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- XYTHHAXRVHHXKO-JIUYZRCGSA-N 18-[(2r,3s,4r,5r)-4,5-dihydroxy-2-(hydroxymethyl)-6-methoxyoxan-3-yl]oxyoctadecanoic acid;ethanol Chemical compound CCO.COC1O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](OCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O XYTHHAXRVHHXKO-JIUYZRCGSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- SMZOUWXMTYCWNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl)ethanamine Chemical compound COC1=CC=C(C)C=C1CCN SMZOUWXMTYCWNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- JKNCOURZONDCGV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(dimethylamino)ethyl 2-methylprop-2-enoate Chemical compound CN(C)CCOC(=O)C(C)=C JKNCOURZONDCGV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
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- SBKDIDITONHJHI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-[2-[2-(2-hydroxyethoxy)ethoxy]ethoxy]ethyl octadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCCOCCOCCOCCO SBKDIDITONHJHI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- AKWFJQNBHYVIPY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-(2-hydroxyethoxy)ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethanol Chemical compound OCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCO AKWFJQNBHYVIPY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- BJRXGOFKVBOFCO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-hydroxypropyl 16-methylheptadecanoate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(C)O BJRXGOFKVBOFCO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- BHIZVZJETFVJMJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-hydroxypropyl dodecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(C)O BHIZVZJETFVJMJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- GHHURQMJLARIDK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-hydroxypropyl octanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(C)O GHHURQMJLARIDK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- AGNTUZCMJBTHOG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-[3-(2,3-dihydroxypropoxy)-2-hydroxypropoxy]propane-1,2-diol Chemical compound OCC(O)COCC(O)COCC(O)CO AGNTUZCMJBTHOG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
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- CERQOIWHTDAKMF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Methacrylic acid Chemical compound CC(=C)C(O)=O CERQOIWHTDAKMF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
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- 229920002701 Polyoxyl 40 Stearate Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920001214 Polysorbate 60 Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- XBDQKXXYIPTUBI-UHFFFAOYSA-M Propionate Chemical compound CCC([O-])=O XBDQKXXYIPTUBI-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 2
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- PHYFQTYBJUILEZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Trioleoylglycerol Natural products CCCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(OC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC)COC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC PHYFQTYBJUILEZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
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- FOLJTMYCYXSPFQ-CJKAUBRRSA-N [(2r,3s,4s,5r,6r)-6-[(2s,3s,4s,5r)-3,4-dihydroxy-5-(hydroxymethyl)-2-(octadecanoyloxymethyl)oxolan-2-yl]oxy-3,4,5-trihydroxyoxan-2-yl]methyl octadecanoate Chemical compound O[C@@H]1[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](COC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC)O[C@@H]1O[C@@]1(COC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O1 FOLJTMYCYXSPFQ-CJKAUBRRSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
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- 125000001117 oleyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])/C([H])=C([H])\C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 claims description 2
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Abstract
本发明涉及一种含有一种或多种非离子定型聚合物、一种或多种油、一种或多种乳化剂、一种或多种保湿剂和至少一种增稠聚合物的头发定型制剂,该制剂提供头发定型并同时为头发提供水分且不会在头发和衣服上留下任何碎屑,尤其是白色碎屑。
Description
技术领域
本发明属于美容领域,并涉及一种美容制剂,特别是一种头发定型制剂,所述制剂包含至少一种非离子定型聚合物、一种或多种油、一种或多种乳化剂、一种或多种保湿剂、以及增稠聚合物。
所述美容制剂的应用导致头发的物理光学性质改善,尤其是在头发定型方面,并同时为头发提供水分且不会在头发和衣服上留下任何碎屑,尤其是白色碎屑。
背景技术
整个人体,除了嘴唇、手掌和脚底之外,都覆盖着毛发,尽管大部分几乎看不见。由于毛发根部有许多神经末梢,毛发对诸如风或碰触之类的外界影响反应灵敏,因此是不应被低估的触觉的一部分。然而,如今,人类头发最重要的功能在于以特性的方式帮助塑造人的外表。与皮肤类似,头发因通过其外观对个人的人际关系和自尊颇有贡献,因此它履行社交功能。。
毛发由毛干和毛根组成。毛干从皮肤中自由伸出,是毛发的角化(死)部分。毛干代表毛发的实际可见部分,是不断更新的。埋在皮肤中的毛根是毛发的活部分。毛干由三层组成:中心部分,称为毛髓(髓质层),在人类中退化,经常完全消失;然后是髓,也称为皮质层;和作为最外层的表皮层,包含多达十个角质层。
人发在新长出状态下的状况几乎不可能被改善。头皮附近的头发部分相应地具有几乎封闭的角质层。特别是,作为头发外鞘的角质层以及表皮层下面的内部区域会受到因环境影响的特定胁迫。
阳光、大力梳刷产生的机械应力、诸如染发、漂白和烫发之类的头发处理、以及使用吹风机或其它工具进行头发造型,都可能对头发造成损害。这种头发干燥并且看起来无光泽。
头发保湿关系到给头发递送水和/或天然油的理念。头发最外层的结构是表皮层,呈瓦状排列。如果表皮层完好且紧密,例如水分和天然保湿因子就无法从头发的皮质层逸出。头发看起来很健康并且就像新长出状态的头发。如果表皮层因各种原因受损,则水分和天然保湿因子会从皮质层逸出,导致头发的干燥状态。为了头发保湿,可以将水结合成分和天然油递送到头发上,帮助修复表皮层并为皮质层提供水结合成分。如果表皮层恢复,则可再次封住水和天然保湿因子。
一般而言,旨在为不同目的应用于头发的制剂应有助于保持新生头发的自然状态。自然健康的头发具有丝般光泽的外观、低孔隙度和令人愉悦的光滑感觉。
头发定型制剂的一个目的是提供一种手段来形成期望的发型并在几个小时中、最好是一整天保持发型。为了达到这个目的,头发定型制剂通常含有一种或多种头发定型剂。这些头发定型剂可能会形成碎屑,主要是白色碎屑,在头发和衣服上变得可见。消费者根本不喜欢这样。
因此,需要提供一种定型制剂,其同时定型头发并为头发提供水分且不形成任何碎屑,尤其是白色碎屑。
现有技术已经公开了应该保湿头发的护发制剂,甚至定型制剂。例如,JP2011006358 A公开了旨在用作头发定型制剂的制剂,该制剂同时具有改善的保湿能力。该制剂含有甘油、糖醇、成膜聚合物和增稠剂。
发明内容
本发明的发明人发现了一种头发定型制剂,其含有
-至少一种非离子定型聚合物,
-至少一种油,优选两种不同油的混合物,
-至少一种乳化剂,优选两种不同乳化剂的混合物,更优选三种不同乳化剂的混合物,
-至少两种不同的保湿剂,优选三种不同的保湿剂,更优选四种不同的保湿剂,
-至少一种增稠聚合物,
所述制剂能够定型头发并同时为头发和头皮提供水分以及避免形成碎屑,尤其是白色碎屑。
此外,所述制剂可任选包含至少一种如“具体实施方式”部分中所列出的辅助组分。所述至少一种辅助组分可选自脂肪醇、防腐剂、螯合剂、抗氧化剂及其混合物。
除上述组分和辅助组分外,所述制剂还包含余量的水,使得所有组分共计100重量%。
在一个进一步的方面,本发明的制剂是乳液,尤其是O/W乳液。
在更进一步的目的中,本发明的制剂作为泵式乳膏、泵式喷雾剂、摩丝或罐式乳膏提供,罐式乳膏是优选的。
在另一个方面,本发明的制剂不含阳离子聚合物。阳离子聚合物的特征为具有至少一个阳离子残基的聚合物质,其永久带正电荷和/或仅在确定的pH值下带正电荷。聚合物质由许多至少一个种类的单体单元构成。经常贡献正电荷的残基是铵基团或胺残基。在本发明的含义中,“不含”是指小于0.1重量%,优选小于0.01重量%,更优选0重量%。
在另一个方面,本发明的制剂不含阳离子表面活性剂。阳离子表面活性剂的特征为通常具有一个、罕见更多个阳离子残基的物质。所述阳离子残基永久带正电荷和/或仅在特定pH值下带正电荷。经常贡献正电荷的残基是铵基团或胺残基。在本发明的含义中,“不含”是指小于0.1重量%,优选小于0.01重量%,更优选0重量%。
在另一个方面,本发明的制剂不含阳离子聚合物和阳离子表面活性剂。
具体实施方式
根据本发明,在本发明的制剂中含有至少一种非离子定型聚合物。
定型聚合物可以在单根头发或发束之间建立非常小的桥梁,从而固定头发。定型聚合物是现有技术中已知的。它们可以分类为阴离子、非离子和阳离子聚合物。
根据本发明,在本发明的制剂中必须含有至少一种非离子定型聚合物。非离子定型聚合物可以是乙烯基吡咯烷酮、N-乙烯基甲酰胺或N-乙烯基己内酰胺的均聚物。合适的还有乙烯基吡咯烷酮和乙酸乙烯酯的共聚物或乙烯基吡咯烷酮和甲基丙烯酸二甲氨基乙酯的共聚物,乙烯基吡咯烷酮、乙酸乙烯酯和丙酸酯的三元共聚物或乙烯基己内酰胺、乙烯基吡咯烷酮和二甲氨基甲基丙烯酸酯的三元共聚物。根据本发明,优选使用乙烯基吡咯烷酮(PVP)的均聚物,其可以从BASF以Luviskol K 90 AT 1(20%溶液)购买。
优选地,相对于制剂的总重量,所述至少一种非离子定型聚合物的总含量为0.1重量%至5.0重量%,更优选0.5重量%至3.0重量%。所述值是指所述至少一种定型聚合物的活性含量。
本发明的制剂含有至少一种油,优选油的混合物。正如所知,油在室温下是流体。所述至少一种油可以源自于不同的化学类别。
所述至少一种油可选自链长为3至20个碳原子的饱和和/或不饱和、支链和/或无支链烷烃羧酸与链长为1至20个碳原子的饱和和/或不饱和、支链和/或无支链醇的酯,以及芳族羧酸与链长为3至20个碳原子的饱和和/或不饱和、支链和/或无支链醇的酯,条件是所述酯在室温下是流体。优选所述至少一种油选自芳族羧酸与链长为10至18个碳原子、更优选12至15个碳原子的饱和和/或不饱和、支链和/或无支链醇的酯。最优选在本发明的制剂中含有C12-15烷醇苯甲酸酯。
如果在本发明的制剂中含有至少一种上述酯的形式的油,则相对于制剂的总重量,所述至少一种酯油的总含量为0.1重量%至10重量%,优选2.5重量%至5.5重量%。
所述至少一种油可选自甘油三酯。甘油三酯是一分子甘油与三个链长为8至24、尤其是12至18个碳原子的饱和和/或不饱和、支链和/或无支链羧酸的酯。所述甘油三酯可分类为合成、半合成和天然的甘油三酯。
根据本发明,可含有半合成的甘油三酯。优选的半合成甘油三酯的实例是辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯,其可从棕榈仁油或椰子油开始而产生。所述相应的油被皂化,产生甘油和相应的脂肪酸。弃去不是癸酸和辛酸的脂肪酸,只有癸酸和辛酸再次用甘油进行酯化。
根据本发明,可含有天然甘油三酯。天然甘油三酯优选是植物来源的那些。更优选地,可含有橄榄油、葵花油、大豆油、花生油、菜籽油、甜杏仁油、棕榈仁油、椰子油、小麦胚芽油、葡萄籽油、红花油、月见草油、澳洲坚果油和/或其混合物。
如果在本发明的制剂中含有至少一种甘油三酯形式的油,则相对于制剂的总重量,所述至少一种甘油三酯的总含量为0.1重量%至10重量%,优选2.5重量%至5.5重量%。
至少一种油可以选自聚二甲基硅氧烷。聚二甲基硅氧烷是M-Dn-M结构的线性聚硅氧烷。根据式RnSiO(4–n)/2,硅氧烷单元由与氧原子键合的硅原子组成,其中R是选自氢、脂族或芳族基团的取代基并且n=0、1、2、3。根据“n”的含义,显然可形成线性、环状、支链或网状的结构。取决于硅原子处取代基的数量,不同的硅氧烷单元可以描述为:
M(单),M对应于R3SiO1/2,
D(二),D对应于R2SiO2/2,
T(三),T对应于RSiO3/2以及
Q(四),Q对应于SiO4/2。
聚二甲基硅氧烷可通过粘度值来表征。取决于分子的长度,相应的粘度增加。粘度值可根据Dow Corning公司发表的方法CTM 0004来确定。
有利地,所述聚二甲基硅氧烷的粘度值为100cSt至1000cSt,优选300cSt至500cSt。合适的聚二甲基硅氧烷可从KCC公司以SF1000N-350cst购买。
如果在本发明的制剂中含有至少一种聚二甲基硅氧烷形式的油,则相对于制剂的总重量,所述至少一种聚二甲基硅氧烷的总含量为0.1重量%至5重量%,优选0.5重量%至3.0重量%。
所述至少一种油可选自聚C2-C16烯烃,特别是选自聚丁烯、聚异丁烯和聚癸烯。优选地,包含氢化形式的聚C2-C16烯烃、更优选氢化聚异丁烯和/或氢化聚癸烯。氢化聚癸烯可从Exxon Mobil公司以SPECTRASYN 4购买。
如果在本发明的制剂中含有至少一种聚C2-C16烯烃形式的油,则相对于制剂的总重量,所述至少一种聚C2-C16烯烃的总含量为0.1重量%至10重量%,优选3.0重量%至8.0重量%。
有利地,本发明的制剂含有上述两种油的混合物;尤其是一种聚二甲基硅氧烷和一种聚C2-C16烯烃的混合物,进一步尤其是一种聚二甲基硅氧烷和一种氢化聚癸烯的混合物。
在本发明的制剂中,相对于制剂的总重量,所述至少一种油的总含量为1.0重量%至15重量%,优选2.0重量%至8.0重量%。
本发明的制剂含有至少一种乳化剂。
一般而言,应理解乳液是由两种液体组成的非均相体系,所述两种液体彼此不混溶或仅具有有限混溶性并通常被称为相。在乳液中,所述两种液体中的一种以非常细小的液滴形式分散在另一种液体中。所述液体(纯的或作为溶液)以近乎精细的分布存在于乳液中,通常只有有限的稳定性。
如果这两种液体是水和油,并且油滴在水中以精细分布的形式存在,那么这就是水包油乳液(O/W乳液,例如牛奶)。O/W乳液的基本特性,例如导电性、感官性质、连续相被染色的能力,是由水决定的。在油包水乳液(W/O乳液,例如奶油)的情况下,基本特性由油决定。
为了稳定乳液,通常含有一种或多种乳化剂。
乳化剂有助于将两种不混溶的液体以产生稳定的制剂、即乳液的方式合并(例如水包油)。为此原因,乳化剂必须具有两亲特性,疏水部分与油相或脂质相相互作用,亲水部分与水相相互作用。通过搅拌或均质化,所生成的液滴分散在相应的环境中,即水性液滴在脂质环境中或脂质液滴在水性环境中。首先,乳化剂不具有去污表面活性剂特性。乳化剂降低所述两相之间的界面张力,并且在降低界面功之外,也实现了所形成的乳液的稳定化。它们通过界面膜以及通过形成空间势垒或电势垒来稳定所形成的乳液,由此防止乳化粒子的合并(聚结)。
HLB值适合于表征乳化剂,所述值指示给定乳化剂的亲水性。HLB值可由下式确定:
HLB=20×(1-M亲脂性/M),
其中M亲脂性表示给定乳化剂的亲脂部分的摩尔质量,M表示总乳化剂的摩尔质量。
一般而言,HLB值高达约8的乳化剂被认为是W/O乳化剂。相比之下,O/W乳化剂的HLB值大于8至15。HLB值大于15的物质经常被称为增溶剂。
优选地,本发明的制剂中含有两种乳化剂的混合物,更优选三种乳化剂的混合物。如果本发明的制剂中含有两种乳化剂,则有利地含有一种W/O乳化剂和一种O/W乳化剂。如果本发明的制剂中含有三种乳化剂,则有利地含有两种不同的W/O乳化剂和一种O/W乳化剂。
有利地,W/O乳化剂可选自单硬脂酸甘油酯、单异硬脂酸甘油酯、单肉豆蔻酸甘油酯、单油酸甘油酯、单硬脂酸二甘油酯、单异硬脂酸二甘油酯、丙二醇单硬脂酸酯、丙二醇单异硬脂酸酯、丙二醇单辛酸酯、丙二醇单月桂酸酯、失水山梨糖醇硬脂酸酯、失水山梨糖醇单异硬脂酸酯、失水山梨糖醇单月桂酸酯、失水山梨糖醇单辛酸酯、失水山梨糖醇单异油酸酯、蔗糖二硬脂酸酯、聚乙二醇(2)硬脂基醚(硬脂醇聚醚-2)、单月桂酸甘油酯、单癸酸甘油酯、单辛酸甘油酯、聚甘油聚12-羟基硬脂酸酯、PEG 30-二聚羟基硬脂酸酯、三甘油二异硬脂酸酯、二异硬脂酰聚甘油-3二聚亚油酸酯、聚甘油-4异硬脂酸酯、聚甘油4-二异硬脂酸酯/聚羟基硬脂酸酯/癸二酸酯、聚甘油-3蓖麻醇酸酯。优选所述至少一种W/O乳化剂选自单硬脂酸甘油酯和/或失水山梨糖醇硬脂酸酯。
有利地,O/W乳化剂可选自鲸蜡硬脂醇聚醚-12、鲸蜡硬脂醇聚醚-20、鲸蜡硬脂醇聚醚-25、鲸蜡硬脂醇聚醚-3、鲸蜡硬脂醇聚醚-6、鲸蜡醇聚醚-10、鲸蜡醇聚醚-2、鲸蜡醇聚醚-20、鲸蜡醇磷酸酯、鲸蜡硬脂醇和鲸蜡醇棕榈酸酯、鲸蜡硬脂醇与PEG-20硬脂酸酯的混合物、鲸蜡硬脂醇与PEG-40蓖麻油和鲸蜡硬脂醇硫酸酯钠的混合物、鲸蜡硬脂醇与鲸蜡硬脂醇硫酸酯钠的混合物、油酸甘油酯与丙二醇的混合物、单硬脂酸柠檬酸甘油酯、单硬脂酸甘油酯与鲸蜡硬脂醇聚醚-20的混合物、单硬脂酸甘油酯与PEG-30硬脂酸酯的混合物、硬脂酸甘油酯与PEG-100硬脂酸酯的混合物、乙二醇二硬脂酸酯、异鲸蜡醇聚醚-20、异硬脂醇聚醚-10、异硬脂醇聚醚-20、异硬脂醇琥珀酸二甘油酯、异硬脂醇甘油醚、月桂醇聚醚-23、月桂醇聚醚-4磷酸酯、月桂醇聚醚-4、卵磷脂三月桂醇聚醚-4磷酸酯、甲氧基PEG-22/十二烷甘醇共聚物、甲基葡萄糖倍半硬脂酸酯、油醇聚醚-20、PEG-100硬脂酸酯、PEG-20单硬脂酸甘油酯、PEG-20甲基葡萄糖倍半硬脂酸酯、PEG-20硬脂酸酯、PEG-22十二烷甘醇共聚物、PEG-25氢化蓖麻油、PEG-30硬脂酸酯、PEG-40硬脂酸酯、PEG-45/十二烷甘醇共聚物、PEG-54氢化蓖麻油、PEG-6辛酸/癸酸甘油酯、PEG-8蜂蜡、聚甘油甲基葡萄糖二硬脂酸酯、聚甘油-2月桂酸酯、聚甘油-2PEG-4硬脂酸酯、聚甘油-2倍半异硬脂酸酯、聚山梨醇酯60、鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾、丙二醇硬脂酸酯SE、鲸蜡硬脂醇硫酸酯钠、硬脂醇聚醚-10、硬脂醇聚醚-2与PEG-8二硬脂酸酯的混合物、硬脂醇聚醚-20、硬脂醇聚醚-21、硬脂酸、和/或三鲸蜡硬脂醇聚醚-4磷酸酯。
最优选在本发明的制剂中含有单硬脂酸甘油酯、失水山梨糖醇硬脂酸酯和鲸蜡硬脂醇聚醚-20。
在本发明的制剂中,相对于制剂的总重量,所述至少一种乳化剂的总含量为1.0重量%至20重量%,优选5.0重量%至15.0重量%。
本发明的制剂含有至少两种不同的保湿剂。保湿剂是吸湿性物质,其结合水并因此提供水分。该吸湿品质归因于分子的亲水性取代基,在许多情况下是羟基基团,但其它官能团例如胺或羧基基团可以履行相同的功能。保湿剂的实例是丙二醇、己二醇和丁二醇、三乙酸甘油酯、甘油、山梨糖醇、木糖醇、麦芽糖醇、聚葡萄糖、氢化淀粉水解物、尿素、芦荟(Aloe vera)凝胶、α-羟酸例如乳酸、蜂蜜、和/或聚乙二醇例如PEG-4、PEG-6、PEG-7、PEG-8、PEG-9、PEG-10、PEG-12、PEG-14、PEG-16、PEG-18、PEG-20、PEG-32、PEG-40、PEG-55、PEG-60、PEG-75、PEG-90、PEG-100、PEG-135、PEG-154、PEG-180、PEG-200、PEG-240。优选地,本发明的制剂中含有三种不同保湿剂的混合物,更优选四种不同保湿剂的混合物。更加优选的是,本发明的制剂中含有PEG-32、丙二醇、山梨糖醇和氢化淀粉水解物。
在本发明的制剂中,相对于制剂的总重量,所述至少两种不同的保湿剂的总含量为1.0重量%至30重量%,优选15.0重量%至25.0重量%。
本发明的制剂含有至少一种增稠聚合物。这些聚合物是大分子,主要具有线性构型,并且还具有不同程度的分子间相互作用力,以允许分子的各个残基之间形成副价键和主价键,从而形成网状结构。增稠剂可以是水溶性的天然或合成聚合物,它们在水性体系中形成凝胶或粘稠溶液。它们通过结合水分子(水合作用)或通过将水吸收并包裹在它们的可相互交织的大分子中来增加水的粘度;这两种效应都导致限制水的流动性。这样的水溶性聚合物代表了一大类在化学上非常不同的天然和合成聚合物,其共同特点是它们在水或水性介质中的溶解性。水溶解性的先决条件是为数足够多的亲水基团以确保在水中的溶解性和有限的交联。所述亲水基团可以是非离子、阴离子或阳离子基团。
美容相关的增稠剂可分类如下:
-有机的天然化合物,例如琼脂、角叉菜胶、黄蓍胶、阿拉伯胶、藻酸盐、果胶、多糖、瓜尔豆粉、角豆粉、淀粉、糊精、明胶、酪蛋白,
-有机的改性天然物质,例如羧甲基纤维素和其它纤维素醚、羟乙基纤维素和羟丙基纤维素等,
-有机的完全合成化合物,例如聚丙烯酸和聚甲基丙烯酸化合物、乙烯基聚合物、聚羧酸、聚醚、聚亚胺、聚酰胺,无机化合物,例如聚硅酸、粘土矿物如蒙脱石、沸石、二氧化硅。
根据本发明,优选在本发明的制剂中含有至少一种聚丙烯酸酯。更优选含有至少一种包含C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯与丙烯酸、甲基丙烯酸或其酯中的一种或多种单体的共聚物。更加优选地,选择至少一种INCI名称为“丙烯酸酯/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物”的共聚物。例如,这样的聚合物可从Lubrizol Advanced Materials以商品名CarbopolUltrez 21获得。
在本发明的制剂中,相对于制剂的总重量,所述至少一种增稠聚合物的总含量为0.05重量%至1.0重量%,优选0.1重量%至0.5重量%。
另外,可含有至少一种脂肪醇。优选地,所述脂肪醇具有14至18个碳原子,更优选地选择鲸蜡醇。所述脂肪醇有助于聚合增稠剂的增稠效果。优选地,含有鲸蜡醇和丙烯酸酯/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物的组合。
在本发明的制剂中,相对于制剂的总重量,所述至少一种脂肪醇的总含量为1.0重量%至5.0重量%,优选1.5重量%至3.0重量%。
在本发明的制剂中,相对于制剂的总重量,所述至少一种增稠聚合物加之所述至少一种脂肪醇的含有量为1.05重量%至6.0重量%,优选1.6重量%至4.0重量%。
有利地,根据本发明,本发明的制剂中还可含有至少一种防腐剂。允许并且适合用于美容制剂的所有防腐剂均可含有。然而,优选含有对羟基苯甲酸甲酯、对羟基苯甲酸乙酯和苯氧乙醇,或其混合物。
如果在本发明的制剂中含有至少一种防腐剂,则相对于组合物的总重量,所述至少一种防腐剂的总含量为0.01重量%至2.0重量%,优选0.05重量%至1.0重量%。所述值是指防腐剂的活性含量。
有利地,根据本发明,还可含有络合组分。优选地,所述络合组分选自EDTA、[S,S]乙二胺二琥珀酸酯(EDDS)、乙二胺四亚甲基膦酸五钠和/或亚氨基二琥珀酸。如果本发明的制剂中含有至少一种络合组分,则相对于制剂的总重量,所述至少一种络合组分的存在量为0.1重量%至5重量%,优选0.5重量%至2重量%。
根据本发明,所述头发定型制剂中可使用抗氧化剂。一般而言,抗氧化剂是防止其它分子被氧化的分子。氧化过程可以产生损害或毁坏其它分子的自由基。当这些其他分子是活细胞的一部分时,这些细胞可能受到损害。有一些分子能够充当自由基清除剂。这些分子也被称为抗氧化剂。抗氧化剂可以是天然来源的,例如维生素C、谷胱甘肽、硫辛酸、胡萝卜素、维生素E和辅酶Q。但也有合成抗氧化剂,如丁基羟基茴香醚(BHA)、丁基羟基甲苯(BHT)和季戊四醇四-二叔丁基-羟基氢化肉桂酸酯。根据本发明,优选使用合成来源的抗氧化剂。
相对于制剂的总重量,所述至少一种抗氧化剂的用量为0.001重量%至0.1重量%,优选0.01重量%至0.07重量%。所述值是指抗氧化剂的活性含量。
本发明的美容制剂可含有通常包含在这样的制剂中的美容助剂,例如香料、染料、具有着色作用的颜料、改善皮肤感觉的填充剂、以及美容制剂的其它常用成分。
本发明的制剂的pH值可通过适合于美容制剂的所有手段进行调节。然而,优选含有适量的无机碱,尤其是氢氧化钠,以将pH值调节到5.5至7.5,尤其是6至7。
制备方法
本发明的制剂可通过任何已知或有效的制备头发定型制剂的技术来制备。所述头发定型制剂可以制成泵式乳膏、泵式喷雾剂或摩丝。然而,优选将本发明的制剂制备成罐式乳膏。制备本发明制剂的方法包括常规的配制和混合技术。
具体地,本发明的制剂优选用以下程序制备:
·将油相加热至约80℃(乳化剂;油,例如C12-15烷醇苯甲酸酯;防腐剂,例如苯氧乙醇);
·将水相加热至约80℃(水;增稠聚合物,例如丙烯酸酯/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物;保湿剂,例如山梨糖醇);
·将这两相在搅拌的同时合并,然后将所述批料均质化至外观均匀;
·添加氢氧化钠和水,连续搅拌
·冷却至45℃;
·添加PVP聚合物、香精;
·连续搅拌并冷却至室温。
测试方法
为了表明本发明的头发定型制剂为头发提供水分并产生持久、灵活的头发定型且不在头发和/或衣服上留下任何碎屑,测试了不同的定型制剂。所有制剂都含有相同浓度的相同非离子定型聚合物(PVP)。油的量和混合物不同,乳化剂单硬脂酸甘油酯的量不同,其中失水山梨糖醇硬脂酸酯和鲸蜡硬脂醇聚醚-20的浓度保持不变,并且对变化的山梨糖醇量进行分析。
使用标准洗发剂洗涤3-D发束,然后冲洗直至不残留洗发剂和其它残余物。使发束在室温下干燥。将1.0g的所述定型制剂均匀地涂抹在8g干发束上。十名训练有素的小组成员在水分、定型效果和不形成白色碎屑方面进行评价。
每个参数以1和10之间的分值评定,其中1意味着差,10相当于非常好。
实施例
以下实施例旨在说明本发明而非限制本发明。实施例中的数值是基于特定制剂总重量的重量百分比,以活性含量给出。
从评价来看,显然实施例1和5的评价最好。这两个实施例仅在山梨糖醇的量上不同,表明山梨糖醇的量为5重量%导致关于保湿效果的非常好的评价。而且,即使更少量的山梨糖醇(实施例1,3.5重量%;实施例6,2重量%)也能产生良好的头发保湿效果。
关于避免形成碎屑,实施例1、5、8和9的评价同样好。这些实施例的不同之处仅在于:所含的山梨糖醇量、单硬脂酸甘油酯的不同量以及油的不同组成。所有评价最好的制剂都含有聚二甲基硅氧烷,三种制剂(根据实施例1、5和9)含有氢化聚癸烯,而一种制剂(根据实施例8)含有C12-C15烷基苯甲酸酯。就不形成碎屑的性质来观察山梨糖醇,山梨糖醇以有利的方式有助于所述效果。同样重要的是,考虑到油,可将不同化学类别的油进行组合以产生类似的效果。关于乳化剂单硬脂酸甘油酯,其量为3重量%至4重量%的制剂被评价为不相上下地好。
关于定型效果,所有被测的制剂都含有相同量的相同非离子定型聚合物。实施例1、5和6的评价最好。所有这些制剂都含有2重量%至5重量%的量的山梨糖醇,表明该给定量的山梨糖醇不会使定型性质劣化,相反似乎以积极的方式支持定型聚合物的效果。
在总体评价中,实施例1和5的制剂的评价最佳,表明可通过本发明的制剂解决本发明的问题。
Claims (26)
1.一种头发定型制剂,其含有
-至少一种非离子定型聚合物,
-至少一种油,优选两种油的混合物,
-至少一种乳化剂,优选两种不同乳化剂的混合物,更优选三种不同乳化剂的混合物,
-至少两种不同的保湿剂,优选三种不同的保湿剂,更优选四种不同的保湿剂,
-至少一种增稠聚合物。
2.根据权利要求1所述的制剂,其特征在于所述制剂是乳液,尤其是O/W乳液。
3.根据权利要求1或2所述的制剂,其特征在于所述制剂以泵式乳膏、泵式喷雾剂或摩丝的形式、尤其是以罐式乳膏的形式提供。
4.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的制剂,其特征在于所述至少一种非离子定型聚合物是乙烯基吡咯烷酮、N-乙烯基甲酰胺或N-乙烯基己内酰胺的均聚物,或乙烯基吡咯烷酮和乙酸乙烯酯的共聚物、乙烯基吡咯烷酮和甲基丙烯酸二甲氨基乙酯的共聚物,或乙烯基吡咯烷酮、乙酸乙烯酯和丙酸酯的三元共聚物或乙烯基己内酰胺、乙烯基吡咯烷酮和二甲氨基甲基丙烯酸酯的三元共聚物,优选乙烯基吡咯烷酮的均聚物。
5.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的制剂,其特征在于相对于制剂的总重量,所述至少一种非离子定型聚合物的总含量为0.1重量%至5.0重量%,优选0.5重量%至3.0重量%,并且是指所述至少一种定型聚合物的活性含量。
6.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的制剂,其特征在于所述至少一种油选自
-链长为3至20个碳原子的饱和和/或不饱和、支链和/或无支链烷烃羧酸与链长为1至20个碳原子的饱和和/或不饱和、支链和/或无支链醇的酯,以及芳族羧酸与链长为3至20个碳原子的饱和和/或不饱和、支链和/或无支链醇的酯,条件是所述酯在室温下是流体,
-甘油三酯,
-聚二甲基硅氧烷,和/或
-聚C2-C16烯烃。
7.根据权利要求6所述的制剂,其特征在于含有芳族羧酸与链长为3至20个碳原子的饱和和/或不饱和、支链和/或无支链醇的至少一种酯,条件是所述酯在室温下是流体,优选C12-15烷醇苯甲酸酯。
8.根据权利要求6所述的制剂,其特征在于含有至少一种半合成甘油三酯,优选辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯。
9.根据权利要求6所述的制剂,其特征在于含有至少一种聚二甲基硅氧烷,优选至少一种粘度为100cSt至1000cSt的聚二甲基硅氧烷,更优选至少一种粘度为300cSt至500cSt的聚二甲基硅氧烷。
10.根据权利要求6所述的制剂,其特征在于含有至少一种聚C2-C16烯烃,所述聚C2-C16烯烃优选选自聚丁烯、聚异丁烯和聚癸烯,更优选氢化形式的聚丁烯、聚异丁烯和聚癸烯,并且更加优选氢化聚异丁烯和/或氢化聚癸烯。
11.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的制剂,其特征在于所述油以混合物的形式被包含,优选为两种不同油的混合物,更优选为一种聚二甲基硅氧烷和一种聚C2-C16烯烃的混合物,更加优选为一种聚二甲基硅氧烷和一种氢化聚癸烯的混合物。
12.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的制剂,其特征在于相对于制剂的总重量,所述至少一种油的总含量为1.0重量%至15重量%,优选2.0重量%至8.0重量%。
13.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的制剂,其特征在于两种乳化剂的混合物含有一种W/O乳化剂和一种O/W乳化剂。
14.根据权利要求1至13中任一项所述的制剂,其特征在于三种乳化剂的混合物含有两种不同的W/O乳化剂和一种O/W乳化剂。
15.根据权利要求13或14所述的制剂,其特征在于所述一种或多种W/O乳化剂选自单硬脂酸甘油酯、单异硬脂酸甘油酯、单肉豆蔻酸甘油酯、单油酸甘油酯、单硬脂酸二甘油酯、单异硬脂酸二甘油酯、丙二醇单硬脂酸酯、丙二醇单异硬脂酸酯、丙二醇单辛酸酯、丙二醇单月桂酸酯、失水山梨糖醇硬脂酸酯、失水山梨糖醇单异硬脂酸酯、失水山梨糖醇单月桂酸酯、失水山梨糖醇单辛酸酯、失水山梨糖醇单异油酸酯、蔗糖二硬脂酸酯、聚乙二醇(2)硬脂基醚(硬脂醇聚醚-2)、单月桂酸甘油酯、单癸酸甘油酯、单辛酸甘油酯、聚甘油聚12-羟基硬脂酸酯、PEG 30-二聚羟基硬脂酸酯、三甘油二异硬脂酸酯、二异硬脂酰聚甘油-3二聚亚油酸酯、聚甘油-4异硬脂酸酯、聚甘油4-二异硬脂酸酯/聚羟基硬脂酸酯/癸二酸酯、聚甘油-3蓖麻醇酸酯,优选所述一种或多种W/O乳化剂选自单硬脂酸甘油酯和/或失水山梨糖醇硬脂酸酯。
16.根据权利要求13或14所述的制剂,其特征在于所述一种或多种O/W乳化剂选自鲸蜡硬脂醇聚醚-12、鲸蜡硬脂醇聚醚-20、鲸蜡硬脂醇聚醚-25、鲸蜡硬脂醇聚醚-3、鲸蜡硬脂醇聚醚-6、鲸蜡醇聚醚-10、鲸蜡醇聚醚-2、鲸蜡醇聚醚-20、鲸蜡醇磷酸酯、鲸蜡硬脂醇和鲸蜡醇棕榈酸酯、鲸蜡硬脂醇与PEG-20硬脂酸酯的混合物、鲸蜡硬脂醇与PEG-40蓖麻油和鲸蜡硬脂醇硫酸酯钠的混合物、鲸蜡硬脂醇与鲸蜡硬脂醇硫酸酯钠的混合物、油酸甘油酯与丙二醇的混合物、单硬脂酸柠檬酸甘油酯、单硬脂酸甘油酯与鲸蜡硬脂醇聚醚-20的混合物、单硬脂酸甘油酯与PEG-30硬脂酸酯的混合物、硬脂酸甘油酯与PEG-100硬脂酸酯的混合物、乙二醇二硬脂酸酯、异鲸蜡醇聚醚-20、异硬脂醇聚醚-10、异硬脂醇聚醚-20、异硬脂醇琥珀酸二甘油酯、异硬脂醇甘油醚、月桂醇聚醚-23、月桂醇聚醚-4磷酸酯、月桂醇聚醚-4、卵磷脂三月桂醇聚醚-4磷酸酯、甲氧基PEG-22/十二烷甘醇共聚物、甲基葡萄糖倍半硬脂酸酯、油醇聚醚-20、PEG-100硬脂酸酯、PEG-20单硬脂酸甘油酯、PEG-20甲基葡萄糖倍半硬脂酸酯、PEG-20硬脂酸酯、PEG-22十二烷甘醇共聚物、PEG-25氢化蓖麻油、PEG-30硬脂酸酯、PEG-40硬脂酸酯、PEG-45/十二烷甘醇共聚物、PEG-54氢化蓖麻油、PEG-6辛酸/癸酸甘油酯、PEG-8蜂蜡、聚甘油甲基葡萄糖二硬脂酸酯、聚甘油-2月桂酸酯、聚甘油-2PEG-4硬脂酸酯、聚甘油-2倍半异硬脂酸酯、聚山梨醇酯60、鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾、丙二醇硬脂酸酯SE、鲸蜡硬脂醇硫酸酯钠、硬脂醇聚醚-10、硬脂醇聚醚-2与PEG-8二硬脂酸酯的混合物、硬脂醇聚醚-20、硬脂醇聚醚-21、硬脂酸、和/或三鲸蜡硬脂醇聚醚-4磷酸酯,优选鲸蜡硬脂醇聚醚-20。
17.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的制剂,其特征在于含有单硬脂酸甘油酯、失水山梨糖醇硬脂酸酯和鲸蜡硬脂醇聚醚-20。
18.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的制剂,其特征在于单硬脂酸甘油酯、失水山梨糖醇硬脂酸酯和鲸蜡硬脂醇聚醚-20是仅含的乳化剂。
19.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的制剂,其特征在于相对于制剂的总重量,所述至少一种乳化剂的总含量为1.0重量%至20重量%,优选5.0重量%至15.0重量%。
20.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的制剂,其特征在于所述至少一种保湿剂选自丙二醇、己二醇和丁二醇、三乙酸甘油酯、甘油、山梨糖醇、木糖醇、麦芽糖醇、聚葡萄糖、氢化淀粉水解物、尿素、芦荟凝胶、α-羟酸例如乳酸、蜂蜜、和/或聚乙二醇例如PEG-4、PEG-6、PEG-7、PEG-8、PEG-9、PEG-10、PEG-12、PEG-14、PEG-16、PEG-18、PEG-20、PEG-32、PEG-40、PEG-55、PEG-60、PEG-75、PEG-90、PEG-100、PEG-135、PEG-154、PEG-180、PEG-200、PEG-240。
21.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的制剂,其特征在于四种不同保湿剂的混合物由PEG-32、丙二醇、山梨糖醇和氢化淀粉水解物组成。
22.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的制剂,其特征在于相对于制剂的总重量,至少两种不同的保湿剂的总含量为1.0重量%至30重量%,优选15.0重量%至25.0重量%。
23.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的制剂,其特征在于所述至少一种增稠聚合物是聚丙烯酸酯聚合物,优选包含C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯和一种或多种丙烯酸、甲基丙烯酸或其酯的单体的共聚物,更优选丙烯酸酯/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物。
24.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的制剂,其特征在于相对于制剂的总重量,所述至少一种增稠聚合物的总含量为0.05重量%至1.0重量%,优选0.1重量%至0.5重量%。
25.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的制剂,其特征在于还含有至少一种脂肪醇,优选具有14至18个碳原子的脂肪醇,更优选鲸蜡醇。
26.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的制剂,其特征在于所述制剂不含阳离子聚合物和/或阳离子表面活性剂。
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