WO2021092802A1

WO2021092802A1 - A hair styling preparation

Info

Publication number: WO2021092802A1
Application number: PCT/CN2019/118095
Authority: WO
Inventors: Mi CAO; Tan WANG; Xiaoping Liu; Shuiping WU; Fan Wang; Zhaoxia Bao
Original assignee: Beiersdorf Daily Chemical (Wuhan) Co. Ltd.; Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date: 2019-11-13
Filing date: 2019-11-13
Publication date: 2021-05-20
Also published as: CN114599345A

Abstract

A hair styling preparation containing one or more nonionic styling polymer (s), one or more oil (s) , one or more emulsifier (s) , one or more moisturizer (s) , and at least one thickening polymer, provides a hair styling and at the same time moisture to the hair without leaving any flakes, especially white flakes on the hair and clothes.

Description

A Hair Styling Preparation

Technical field

The invention belongs to the cosmetic field, and relates to a cosmetic preparation, in particular a hair styling preparation, comprising at least one nonionic styling polymer, one or more oil (s) , one or more emulsifier (s) , one or more moisturizer (s) , and a thickening polymer.

The application of the cosmetic preparation results in an improvement of the physical-optical properties of hair, especially referring to hair styling and at the same time providing moisture to the hair without leaving any flakes, especially white flakes on the hair and clothes.

Background Art

The entire human body, with the exception of the lips, the palms of the hands and the soles of the feet, is covered with hair, albeit for a large part barely visible. Because of many nerve endings at the hair root, hair reacts sensitively to external influences such as wind or touch and is therefore a part of the sense of touch that should not be underestimated. However, nowadays, the most important function of human head hair lies in helping to create the appearance of the person in a characteristic manner. Similarly to the skin, hair fulfils a social function because it considerably contributes to interpersonal relations and to the self-esteem of an individual via its outward appearance.

Hair is consisting of hair shaft and hair root. Hair shaft protrudes freely from the skin, and is a keratinized (dead) section of the hair. Hair shaft represents the actually visible part of the hair, which is continually renewed. Hair root which sticks in the skin is the living part of the hair. Hair shaft consists of three layers: the central part, which is called hair marrow (medulla) , is regressed in humans, often completely missing; then there is the marrow, also called cortex; and cuticle as the outermost layer, comprising up to ten horny layers.

Human hair in its freshly grown condition is virtually impossible to improve. The part of the hair in the vicinity of the scalp accordingly has a virtually closed horny layer. In particular, the horny layer, being the external sheath of the hair, and also the inner region below the cuticle is subjected to particular stress by environmental influences.

Sunlight, mechanical stress by intensive combing or brushing, hair treatments, such as hair colorations, bleaching and permanent waving, and also hair shaping using a hair dryer or other tools may cause damage to hair. This hair is dry and looks dull.

Moisturizing hair is connected with the idea of delivering water and/or natural oils to hair. The outmost structure of hair is the cuticula, which is arranged in form of shingles. If the cuticula is intact and compact, for example water and natural moisturizing factors cannot escape from the cortex of hair. The hair looks healthy and resembles hair in a freshly grown condition. If the cuticula is damaged for various reasons, water and natural moisturizing factors can escape from the cortex causing a dry condition of hair. In order to moisturize hair water binding components and natural oils can be delivered to hair helping to restore the cuticula and provide the cortex with water binding components. If the cuticula is restored, water and natural moisturizing factors may be inclosed again.

In general, preparations intended to be applied to hair for different purposes should help to retain the natural state of freshly grown hair. Natural healthy hair has a silky shine look, low porosity and a pleasant, smooth feel.

One aim of a hair styling preparations is to provide a means to form a desired hair style and keep the hair style over a couple of hours, at best for the whole day. To achieve this aim, the hair styling preparation generally contains one or more hair styling agents. These hair styling agents may form flakes, mostly white flakes, which become visible on the hair and the clothes. Consumers do not like this at all.

Hence, there is a need to provide a styling preparation, which at the same time styles the hair and provides moisture to the hair without forming any flakes, especially white flakes.

Prior art already discloses hair care preparations, even styling preparations, which should moisturize hair. For instance, JP 2011006358 A discloses preparations intended to be used as hair setting preparations, which at the same time have an improved moisturizing power. The preparations contain glycerin, sugar alcohol, a film-forming polymer, and a thickener.

Summary of the invention

Inventors of the present invention found out that a hair styling preparation containing

- at least one nonionic styling polymer,

- at least one oil, preferably a mixture of two different oils,

- at least one emulsifier, preferably a mixture of two different emulsifiers, more preferably a mixture of three different emulsifiers,

- at least two different moisturizers, preferably three different moisturizers, more preferably four different moisturizers,

- at least one thickening polymer,

is able to style the hair and at the same time provide moisture to the hair and scalp as well as avoid the forming of flakes, especially white flakes.

Furthermore, the preparation may optionally comprise at least one auxiliary component as listed in the part of “detailed description of the invention” . The at least one auxiliary component may be selected from fatty alcohols, preservatives, chelators, antioxidants and mixtures thereof.

In addition to the above components and the auxiliary components, the preparation comprises a balance amount of water, so that all the components amount to 100%by weight.

In a further aspect, the preparation according to the invention is an emulsion, especially an O/W emulsion.

In an even further object, the preparation according to the invention is provided as a pump cream, pump spray, mousse or a jar cream, the jar cream being the preferred one.

In another aspect the preparation of the invention is free from cationic polymers. Cationic polymers are characterized as polymeric substances having at least one cationic residue, which has a positive charge permanently and/or which has a positive charge only at determined pH values. Polymeric substances are built from a multitude of at least one kind of monomeric units. The residues often contributing to the positive charge are either ammonium groups or amine residues. In the meaning of the present invention “free from” means less than 0.1 %by weight, preferably less than 0.01 %by weight, and more preferably 0 %by weight.

In another aspect the preparation of the invention is free from cationic surfactants. Cationic surfactants are characterized as substances commonly having one, rarely more cationic residue (s) . The cationic residues are permanently positively charged and/or only positively charged at specific pH values. The residues often contributing to the positive charge are either an ammonium groups or amine residues. In the meaning of the present invention “free from” means less than 0.1 %by weight, preferably less than 0.01 %by weight, and more preferably 0 %by weight.

In another aspect the preparation of the invention is free from cationic polymers and surfactants.

Detailed description of the invention

According to the invention at least one nonionic styling polymer is contained in the preparation according to the invention.

Styling polymers can build up very small bridges between single hairs or hair tresses thereby fixing the hair. Styling polymers are known in prior art. They may be classified as anionic, nonionic and cationic polymers.

According to the invention at least one nonionic styling polymer has to be contained in the preparation according to the invention. Nonionic styling polymers may be homopolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, N-Vinylformamides or N-vinylcarprolactam. Suitable are also copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylacetate or vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate, terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinylacetate and propionate or vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminomethacrylate. According to the present invention it is preferred to use the homopolymer of vinyl pyrrolidone (PVP) , which may be purchased as Luviskol K 90 AT 1 (a 20 %solution) from BASF.

Preferably, the at least one nonionic styling polymer is contained in a total amount of 0.1 to 5.0 %by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 3.0 %by weight, relative to the total weight of the preparation. The values are referring to the active content of the at least one styling polymer.

The preparation according to the present invention contains at least one oil, preferably a mixture of oils. As known, oils are fluid at room temperature. The at least one oil may be derived from different chemical classes.

The at least one oil may be selected from esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of from 3 to 20 carbon atoms and saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, with the proviso that said esters are fluid at room temperature. It is preferred, if the at least one oil is selected from esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of from 10 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 15 carbon atoms. It is most preferred, if C12-15 alkyl benzoate is contained in the preparation of the present invention.

If at least one oil in form of the above mentioned ester is contained in the preparation of the present invention, the at least one ester oil is contained in a total amount of 0.1 to 10 %by weight, preferably 2.5 to 5.5 %by weight, relative to the total weight of the preparation.

The at least one oil may be selected from triglycerides. Triglycerides are ester of one molecule of glycerine and three saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched carboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The triglycerides may be classified as synthetic, semi synthetic and natural ones.

According to the invention, semi synthetic triglycerides may be contained. An example of a preferred semi synthetic triglyceride is caprylic/capric triglyceride, which may be produced starting from palm kernel oil or coconut oil. The respective oils are saponified resulting in glycerine and the respective fatty acids. The fatty acids not being capric acid and caprylic acid are discarded and only capric acid and caprylic acid are again esterified with glycerine.

According to the invention, natural triglycerides may be contained. The natural triglycerides are preferably those of plant origin. More preferably olive oil, sun flower oil, soya bean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, sweet almond oil, palm kernel oil, coconut oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and/or mixtures thereof may be contained.

If at least one oil in form of a triglyceride is contained in the preparation of the present invention, the at least one triglyceride is contained in a total amount of 0.1 to 10 %by weight, preferably 2.5 to 5.5 %by weight, relative to the total weight of the preparation.

The at least one oil may be selected from dimethicones. Dimethicones are linear polysiloxane of the structure M-D _n-M. Siloxane units consist of silicium atoms bonded to oxygen atoms according to the formula R _nSiO _(4–n) /2, wherein R is a substituent selected from hydrogen, aliphatic or aromatic groups and n=0, 1, 2, 3. Starting from the meaning of “n” it is evident, that linear, cyclic, branched, or network structures may be formed. Depending on the number of substituents at the silicium atom different siloxane units can be described:

M (mono) , M corresponds to R ₃SiO _1/2,

D (di) , D corresponds to R ₂SiO _2/2,

T (tri) , T corresponds to RSiO _3/2 and

Q (quatro) , Q corresponds to SiO _4/2.

Dimethicones may be characterized by viscosity values. Depending on the length of the molecule the respective viscosity increases. The viscosity values may be determined according to CTM 0004, a method published by Dow Corning Corporation.

Advantageously, the dimethicones have viscosity values ranging from 100 to 1000 cSt, preferably from 300 to 500 cSt. Suitable dimethicones may be purchased as SF1000N-350cst from KCC Corporation.

If at least one oil in form of a dimethicone is contained in the preparation of the present invention, the at least one dimethicone is contained in a total amount of 0.1 to 5 %by weight, preferably 0.5 to 3.0 %by weight, relative to the total weight of the preparation.

The at least one oil may be selected from poly-C2-C16-olefins, in particular chosen from polybutene, polyisobutene and polydecene. Preferably, the poly-C2-C16-olefins are contained in hydrogenated form, more preferably hydrogenated polyisobutene and/or hydrogenated polydecene. Hydrogenated polydecene may be purchased from Exxon Mobil Corporationas SPECTRASYN 4.

If at least one oil in form of a poly-C2-C16-olefin is contained in the preparation of the present invention, the at least one poly-C2-C16-olefin is contained in a total amount of 0.1 to 10 %by weight, preferably 3.0 to 8.0 %by weight, relative to the total weight of the preparation.

Advantageously the preparation according to the invention contains a mixture of two of the oils described above; especially a mixture of one dimethicone and one poly-C2-C16-olefin, further especially one dimethicone and one hydrogenated polydecene.

In the preparation of the present invention the at least one oil is contained in a total amount of 1.0 to 15 %by weight, prefarably 2.0 to 8.0 %by weight, relative to the total weight of the preparation.

The preparation according to the present invention contains at least one emulsifier.

In general, it is understood that emulsions are heterogeneous systems, which consist of two liquids which are immiscible or have only limited miscibility with one another and which are usually referred to as phases. In an emulsion, one of the two liquids is dispersed in the form of very fine droplets in the other liquid. The liquids (pure or as solutions) are present in an emulsion in a more or less fine distribution, which is generally of only limited stability.

If the two liquids are water and oil and oil droplets are present in finely distributed form in water, then this is an oil-in-water emulsion (O/W emulsion, e.g. milk) . The basic character of an O/W emulsion, exemplified by electrical conductivity, sensory properties, ability of the continuous phase to be stained, is determined by the water. In the case of a water-in-oil emulsion (W/O emulsion, e.g. butter) , the basic character is determined by the oil.

To stabilize an emulsion, one or more emulsifier (s) is/are contained in general.

Emulsifiers help to combine two immiscible liquids (for example oil in water) in a way to result in a stable preparation, an emulsion. For that reason emulsifiers have to have an amphiphilic character, the hydrophobic part interacts with the oily or lipid phase and the hydrophilic part interacts with the aqueous phase. By stirring or homogenizing the generated droplets are dispersed in the respective environment, namely aqueous droplets in a lipid environment or lipid droplets in an aqueous environment. Primarily, emulsifiers do not have a detersive, surfactant character. Emulsifiers reduce the interfacial tension between the two phases and, besides reducing the interfacial work, also achieve a stabilization of the emulsion formed. They stabilize the formed emulsion by means of interfacial films, as well as by forming steric or electrical barriers, as a result of which the merging (coalescence) of the emulsified particles is prevented.

HLB values are suitable to characterize emulsifiers, said values specify the hydrophilicity of a given emulsifier. The HLB value may be determined by the following formula:

HLB=20× (1-M _lipophile/M) ,

where M _lipophile represents the molar mass of the lipophilic fraction of a given emulsifier and M represents the molar mass of the total emulsifier.

In general, emulsifiers with an HLB value up to about 8 are considered to be W/O emulsifiers. By contrast, O/W emulsifiers have HLB values of greater than 8 to 15. Substances with HLB values greater than 15 are often referred to as solubilizers.

Preferably, a mixture of two emulsifiers, more preferably of three emulsifiers is contained in the preparation of the present invention. If two emulsifiers are contained in the preparation of the present invention, advantageously one W/O emulsifier and one O/W emulsifier are contained. If three emulsifiers are contained in the preparation of the present invention, advantageously two different W/O emulsifiers and one O/W emulsifier are contained.

Advantageously, W/O emulsifier may be chosen from glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monooleate, diglyceryl monostearate diglyceryl monoisostearate, propylenglycol monostearate, propylenglycol monoisostearate, propylenglycol monocaprylate, propylenglycolmonolaurate, sorbitan stearate, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitanmonocaprylate, sorbitan monoisooleate, saccharose distearate, polyethylenglycol (2) stearylether (Steareth-2) , glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monocaprinate, glyceryl monocaprylate, polyglycerin poly-12-hydroxystearate, PEG 30-dipolyhydroxystearate, triglycerindiisostearate, diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate, polyclyceryl-3 ricinoleate. Preferably the at least one W/O emulsifier is chosen from glyceryl monostearate and/or sorbitan stearate.

Advantageously, O/W emulsifier may be chosen from ceteareth-12, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-25, ceteareth-3, ceteareth-6, ceteth-10, ceteth-2, ceteth-20, cetyl phosphate, cetylstearyl alcohol and cetyl palmitate, cetylstearyl alcohol in a mixture with PEG-20 stearate, cetylstearyl alcohol in a mixture with PEG-40 castor oil and sodium cetylstearyl sulfate, cetylstearyl alcohol in a mixture with sodium cetylstearyl sulfate, glyceryl oleate in a mixture with propylene glycol, glyceryl monostearate citrate, glyceryl monostearate in a mixture with ceteareth-20, glyceryl monostearate in a mixture with PEG-30 stearate, glycerylstearate in a mixture with PEG-100 stearate, glycol distearate, isoceteth-20, isosteareth-10, isosteareth-20, isostearyl diglyceryl succinate, isostearyl glyceryl ether, laureth-23, laureth-4 phosphate, laureth-4, lecithin trilaureth-4 phosphate, methoxy PEG-22/dodecyl glycol-copolymer, methyl glucose sesquistearate, oleth-20, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl monostearate, PEG-20 methylglucose sesquistearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-22 dodecyl glycol copolymer, PEG-25 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-45/dodecylglycol copolymer, PEG-54 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-6 caprylic/capric acid glyceride, PEG-8 bees wax, polyglyceryl methylglucose distearate, polyglyceryl-2 laurate, polyglyceryl-2 PEG-4 stearate, polyglyceryl-2 sesquiisostearate, polysorbate 60, potassium cetyl phosphate, propylene glycolstearate SE, sodium cetylstearyl sulfate, steareth-10, steareth-2 in a mixture with PEG-8 distearate, steareth-20, steareth-21, stearic acid, and/or triceteareth-4 phosphate.

It is most preferred, if glyceryl monostearate, sorbitan stearate and ceteareth-20 are contained in the preparation of the present invention.

In the preparation of the present invention the at least one emulsifier is contained in a total amount of 1.0 to 20 %by weight, prefarably 5.0 to 15.0 %by weight, relative to the total weight of the preparation.

The preparation according to the present invention contains at least two different moisturizers. Moisturizers are hygroscopic substances, which bind water and therefore provide moisture. The hygroscopic quality is due to hydrophilic substituents of the molecule, in many cases hydroxyl groups, but other functional groups, such as amine or carboxyl groups can fulfill the same function. Examples of moisturizers are propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and butylene glycol, glyceryl triacetate, glycerol, sorbitol, xylitol, maltitol, polydextrose, hydrogenated starch hydrolysate, urea, Aloe vera gel, alpha hydroxy acids such as lactic acid, honey, and/or polyethylene glycols such as PEG-4, PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-9, PEG-10, PEG-12, PEG-14, PEG-16, PEG-18, PEG-20, PEG-32, PEG-40, PEG-55, PEG-60, PEG-75, PEG-90, PEG-100, PEG-135, PEG-154, PEG-180, PEG-200, PEG-240. Preferably, a mixture of three different moisturizers, more preferably of four different moisturizers is contained in the preparation of the present invention. It is even more preferred, if PEG-32, propylene glycol, sorbitol and hydrogenated starch hydrolysate are contained in the preparation of the present invention.

In the preparation of the present invention the at least two different moisturizers are contained in a total amount of 1.0 to 30 %by weight, prefarably 15.0 to 25.0 %by weight, relative to the total weight of the preparation.

The preparation according to the present invention contains at least one thickening polymer. These polymers are macromolecules, which have a mainly linear configuration and also have to a varying degree of intermolecular forces of interaction permitting secondary and primary valence bonds between individual residues of the molecule and thus the formation of a reticular structure. Thickeners may be water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers, which form gels or viscous solutions in aqueous systems. They increase the viscosity of water by either binding water molecules (hydration) or else by absorbing and encapsulating the water into their macromolecules, which may be interwoven; both effects result in restricting the mobility of the water. Such water-soluble polymers represent a large group of chemically very different natural and synthetic polymers, whose common feature is their solubility in water or aqueous media. A precondition for the solubility in water is a sufficient high number of hydrophilic groups for ensuring the solubility in water and a limited crosslinking. The hydrophilic groups may be nonionic, anionic, or cationic groups.

Cosmetically relevant thickeners may be classified as follows:

- organic, natural compounds, such as, for example, agar agar, carrageen, tragacanth, gum arabic, alginates, pectins, polyoses, guar flour, carob bean flour, starch, dextrins, gelatin, casein,

- organic, modified natural substances, such as, for example carboxymethylcellulose and other cellulose ethers, hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose and the like,

- organic, completely synthetic compounds, such as, for example, polyacrylic and polymethacrylic compounds, vinyl polymers, polycarboxylic acids, polyethers, polyimines, polyamides, inorganic compounds, such as, for example, polysilicic acids, clay minerals, such as montmorillonites, zeolites, silicas.

According to the present invention it is preferred, if at least one polyacrylate is contained in the preparation of the present invention. It is more preferred, if at least one copolymer comprising C10-30-alkyl acrylate and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, of methacrylic acid or esters thereof are contained. Even more preferably at least one copolymer with the INCI name "Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer" is chosen. For instance, such a polymer is available under the trade name Carbopol Ultrez 21 from Lubrizol Advanced Materials.

In the preparation of the present invention the at least one thickening polymer is contained in a total amount of 0.05 to 1.0 %by weight, prefarably 0.1 to 0.5 %by weight, relative to the total weight of the preparation.

Additionally, at least one fatty alcohol may be contained. Preferably, the fatty alcohols have 14 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably cetyl alcohol is chosen. The fatty alcohols are contributing to the thickening effect of the polymeric thickener. Preferably, a combination of cetyl alcohol and Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is contained.

In the preparation of the present invention the at least one fatty alcohol is contained in a total amount of 1.0 to 5.0 %by weight, prefarably 1.5 to 3.0 %by weight, relative to the total weight of the preparation.

In the preparation of the present invention the at least one thickening polymer together with the at least one fatty alcohol are contained in an amount of 1.05 to 6.0 %by weight, prefarably 1.6 to 4.0 %by weight, relative to the total weight of the preparation.

Advantageously, according to the invention additionally at least one preservative may be contained in the preparation of the present invention. All preservatives, which are allowed and suitable for cosmetic preparations may be contained. However, it is preferred, if methylparaben, ethylparaben, phenoxyethanol, or mixtures thereof are contained.

If at least one preservative is contained in the preparation according to the present invention, the at least one preservative is contained in a total amount of 0.01 to 2.0 %by weight, preferably 0.05 to 1.0 %by weight, relative to the total weight of the preparation. The values are referring to the active content of the preservatives.

Advantageously, according to the invention additionally complexing components may be contained. Preferably, the complexing components are chosen from EDTA, [S, S] ethylenediamine disuccinate (EDDS) , pentasodium ethylenediamine tetramethylenephosphonate and/or iminodisuccinic acid. If at least one complexing component is contained in the preparation of the present invention, the at least one complexing component is present in an amount of 0.1 to 5 %by weight, preferably 0.5 to 2 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the preparation.

According to the present invention antioxidants may be used in the hair styling preparations. In general antioxidants are molecules which prevent other molecules from being oxidized. Oxidation processes can produce free radicals which are damaging or destroying other molecules. When these other molecules are part of living cells these cells may be damaged. There are several molecules which are able to function as radical scavengers. These molecules are also called antioxidants. The antioxidants may be of natural origin as for example vitamin C, gluthathione, lipoic acid, carotenes, vitamin E and coenzyme Q. But there are also synthetic antioxidants as butylhydroanisol (BHA) , butylhydroxytoluol (BHT) and pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl- hydroxyhydrocinnamate. According to the invention it is preferred to use antioxidants of synthetic origin.

The at least one antioxidant is used in an amount of 0.001 to 0.1 %by weight, preferably 0.01 to 0.07 %by weight, relative to the total weight of the preparation. The values are referring to the active content of the antioxidants.

The cosmetic preparation according to the invention may comprise cosmetic auxiliaries being in general contained in such preparations, e.g. perfumes, dyes, pigments which have a coloring action, fillers, which improve the feel on the skin, and other customary constituents of a cosmetic formulation.

The pH value of the preparations according to the present invention may be adjusted by all means suitable for cosmetic preparations. However, it is preferred, if a suitable amount of an inorganic base, especially sodium hydroxide, is contained to adjust the pH value to 5.5 to 7.5, especially 6 to 7.

Preparation method

The preparation of the present invention may be prepared by any technique known or effective to prepare a hair styling preparation. The hair styling preparations may be prepared as pump creams, pump sprays or mousses. However, it is preferred to prepare the preparations of the present invention as a jar cream. The process to prepare the preparation of the present invention comprises conventional formulating and mixing techniques.

Specifically, preparations of the present invention are preferably produced with the following procedure:

● Heat oily phase to about 80℃ (emulsifier; oils, for instance C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate; preservative, for instance Phenoxyethanol) ;

● heat water phase to about 80℃ (water; thickening polymer, e.g. Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer; moisturizer, for instance sorbitol) ;

● combine both phases whilst stirring, then homogenize the batch until the appearance is homogeneous;

● add Sodium Hydroxide and water, stir continuously

● Cool down to 45℃;

● add PVP polymer, fragrance;

● stir continuously and cool to room.

Test method

In order to show that the hair styling preparation according to the present invention provides moisture to the hair and results in a long-lasting, flexible styling of the hair without leaving any flakes on the hair and/or the clothes, different styling preparations were tested. All preparations contained the same nonionic styling polymer (PVP) in the same concentration. Different amounts and mixtures of oils, different amounts of the emulsifier glyceryl monostearate, wherein the concentration of sorbitan stearate and ceteareth-20 was kept constant, and a varying amount of sorbitol was analyzed.

The 3-D hair tresses were washed using a standard shampoo, then rinsed until no shampoo and other residues remained. The tresses were allowed to dry at room temperature. 1.0 g of the styling preparation was evenly spread on an 8g dry hair tress. Ten trained panelists evaluated in relation to moisture, styling effect, and not forming white flakes.

Each parameter was rated with a score value between 1 and 10, whereby 1 means bad, and 10 corresponds to very good.

Examples

The examples below are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting it. The numerical values in the examples are percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the particular preparations, given as active content.

Looking at the evaluation it becomes apparent that examples 1 and 5 are evaluated best. Both examples only differ in the amount of sorbitol indicating that sorbitol in an amount of 5 %by weight leads to a very good evaluation referring to moisturizing effect. But also even smaller amounts of sorbitol (example 1, 3.5 %by weight; example 6, 2 %by weight) result in a good moisturizing effect of the hair.

In relation to avoid the forming of flakes, examples 1, 5, 8, and 9 are evaluated equally well. These examples differ only in the amount of sorbitol contained, the varying amount of glyceryl monostearate and in a varying composition of oils. All the preparations evaluated best contain dimethicone, three preparations (according to the examples 1, 5, and 9) contain Hydrogenated Polydecene and one preparation (according to example 8) C12-C15-Alkyl Benzoate. Looking at sorbitol in relation to the property of not forming flakes, sorbitol contributes to the described effect in an advantageous manner. Also important, considering the oils, oils of different chemical classes may be combined to result in comparable effects. In relation to the emulsifier glyceryl monostearate preparations with an amount of 3 to 4 %by weight thereof were evaluated equally good.

Referring to the styling effect, all preparations tested contained the same nonionic styling polymer in the same amount. Examples 1, 5, and 6 are evaluated best. All these preparations contained sorbitol in an amount of 2 to 5 %by weight, indicating that sorbitol in the given amounts did not worsen the styling properties, in contrast seemed to support the effect of the styling polymer in a positive manner.

In an overall evaluation the preparations according to examples 1 and 5 are evaluated best and show that the problem of the present invention could be solved by the inventive preparation.

Claims

A hair styling preparation, containing:

- at least one nonionic styling polymer,

- at least one oil, preferably a mixture of two oils,

- at least one emulsifier, preferably a mixture of two different emulsifiers, more preferably a mixture of three different emulsifiers,

- at least two different moisturizers, preferably three different moisturizers, more preferably four different moisturizers,

- at least one thickening polymer.
Preparation according to claim 1 characterized in that the preparation is an emulsion, especially an O/W emulsion.
Preparation according to claim 1 or 2 characterized in that the preparation is provided in form of a pump cream, pump spray or mousse, especially in form of a jar cream.
Preparation according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the at least one nonionic styling polymer is a homopolymer of vinyl pyrrolidone, N -Vinylformamide or N-vinylcarprolactam, or a copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylacetate, vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate, or a terpolymer of vinylpyrrolidone, vinylacetate and propionate or vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminomethacrylate, preferably a homopolymer of vinyl pyrrolidone.
Preparation according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the at least one nonionic styling polymer is contained in a total amount of 0.1 to 5.0 %by weight, preferably 0.5 to 3.0 %by weight, relative to the total weight of the preparation and referring to the active content of the at least one styling polymer.
Preparation according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the at least one oil is selected from

- esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of from 3 to 20 carbon atoms and saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, with the proviso that said esters are fluid at room temperature,

- triglycerides,

- dimethicones, and/or

- poly-C2-C16-olefins.
Preparation according to claim 6 characterized in that at least one ester of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, with the proviso that said ester is fluid at room temperature, preferably C12-15 alkyl benzoate, is contained.
Preparation according to claim 6 characterized in that at least one semi synthetic triglyceride, preferably caprylic/capric triglyceride, is contained.
Preparation according to claim 6 characterized in that at least one dimethicone, preferably at least one dimethicone having aviscosity of 100 to 1000 cSt, more preferably at least one dimethicone having a viscosity of 300 to 500 cSt, is contained.
Preparation according to claim 6 characterized in that at least one poly-C2-C16-olefin, preferably chosen from polybutene, polyisobutene and polydecene, more preferably polybutene, polyisobutene and polydecene in a hydrogenated form, and even more preferably hydrogenated polyisobutene and/or hydrogenated polydecene, is contained.
Preparation according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the oils are contained in form of a mixture, preferably a mixture of two different oils, more preferably a mixture of one dimethicone and one poly-C2-C16-olefin, even more preferably a mixture of one dimethicone and one hydrogenated polydecene.
Preparation according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the at least one oil is contained in a total amount of 1.0 to 15 %by weight, prefarably 2.0 to 8.0 %by weight, relative to the total weight of the preparation.
Preparation according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the mixture of two emulsifiers contains one W/O emulsifier and one O/W emulsifier.
Preparation according to any of claims 1 to 13 characterized in that the mixture of three emulsifiers contains two different W/O emulsifiers and one O/W emulsifier.
Preparation according to claim 13 or 14 characterized in that the one or more W/O emulsifier (s) is/are chosen from glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monooleate, diglyceryl monostearate diglyceryl monoisostearate, propylenglycol monostearate, propylenglycol monoisostearate, propylenglycol monocaprylate, propylenglycol monolaurate, sorbitan stearate, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan monocaprylate, sorbitan monoisooleate, saccharose distearate, polyethylenglycol (2) stearylether (Steareth-2) , glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monocaprinate, glyceryl monocaprylate, polyglycerin poly-12-hydroxystearate, PEG 30-dipolyhydroxystearate, triglycerin diisostearate, diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate, polyclyceryl-3 ricinoleate, preferably the one or more W/O emulsifier (s) is/are chosen from glyceryl monostearate and/or sorbitan stearate.
Preparation according to claim 13 or 14 characterized in that the one or more O/W emulsifier (s) is/are chosen from ceteareth-12, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-25, ceteareth-3, ceteareth-6, ceteth-10, ceteth-2, ceteth-20, cetyl phosphate, cetylstearyl alcohol and cetyl palmitate, cetylstearyl alcohol in a mixture with PEG-20 stearate, cetylstearyl alcohol in a mixture with PEG-40 castor oil and sodium cetylstearyl sulfate, cetylstearyl alcohol in a mixture with sodium cetylstearyl sulfate, glyceryl oleate in a mixture with propylene glycol, glyceryl monostearate citrate, glyceryl monostearate in a mixture with ceteareth-20, glyceryl monostearate in a mixture with PEG-30 stearate, glycerylstearate in a mixture with PEG-100 stearate, glycol distearate, isoceteth-20, isosteareth-10, isosteareth-20, isostearyl diglyceryl succinate, isostearyl glyceryl ether, laureth-23, laureth-4 phosphate, laureth-4, lecithin trilaureth-4 phosphate, methoxy PEG-22/dodecyl glycol-copolymer, methyl glucose sesquistearate, oleth-20, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl monostearate, PEG-20 methylglucose sesquistearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-22 dodecyl glycol copolymer, PEG-25 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-45/dodecylglycol copolymer, PEG-54 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-6 caprylic/capric acid glyceride, PEG-8 bees wax, polyglyceryl methylglucose distearate, polyglyceryl-2 laurate, polyglyceryl-2 PEG-4 stearate, polyglyceryl-2 sesquiisostearate, polysorbate 60, potassium cetyl phosphate, propylene glycolstearate SE, sodium cetylstearyl sulfate, steareth-10, steareth-2 in a mixture with PEG-8 distearate, steareth-20, steareth-21, stearic acid, and/or triceteareth-4 phosphate, preferably ceteareth-20.
Preparation according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that glyceryl monostearate, sorbitan stearate and ceteareth-20 are contained.
Preparation according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that glyceryl monostearate, sorbitan stearate and ceteareth-20 are the only emulsifiers being contained.
Preparation according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the at least one emulsifier is contained in a total amount of 1.0 to 20 %by weight, prefarably 5.0 to 15.0 %by weight, relative to the total weight of the preparation.
Preparation according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the at least one moisturizer is chosen form propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and butylene glycol, glyceryl triacetate, glycerol, sorbitol, xylitol, maltitol, poly dextrose, hydrogenated starch hydrolysate, urea, Aloe vera gel, alpha hydroxy acids such as lactic acid, honey, and/or polyethylene glycols such as PEG-4, PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-9, PEG-10, PEG-12, PEG-14, PEG-16, PEG-18, PEG-20, PEG-32, PEG-40, PEG-55, PEG-60, PEG-75, PEG-90, PEG-100, PEG-135, PEG-154, PEG-180, PEG-200, PEG-240.
Preparation according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the mixture of four different moisturizers consists of PEG-32, propylene glycol, sorbitol and hydrogenated starch hydrolysate.
Preparation according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the at least two different moisturizers are contained in a total amount of 1.0 to 30 %by weight, prefarably 15.0 to 25.0 %by weight, relative to the total weight of the preparation.
Preparation according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the at least one thickening polymer is a polyacrylate polymer, preferably a copolymer comprising C10-30-alkyl acrylate and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, of methacrylic acid or esters thereof, more preferably Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer.
Preparation according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the at least one thickening polymer is contained in a total amount of 0.05 to 1.0 %by weight, prefarably 0.1 to 0.5 %by weight, relative to the total weight of the preparation.
Preparation according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that additionally at least one fatty alcohol, preferably fatty alcohols have 14 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably cetyl alcohol, is contained.
Preparation according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the preparation is free from cationic polymers and/or cationic surfactants.