WO2020227908A1 - Quick breaking w/o-emulsion free from cyclomethicones - Google Patents

Quick breaking w/o-emulsion free from cyclomethicones Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2020227908A1
WO2020227908A1 PCT/CN2019/086726 CN2019086726W WO2020227908A1 WO 2020227908 A1 WO2020227908 A1 WO 2020227908A1 CN 2019086726 W CN2019086726 W CN 2019086726W WO 2020227908 A1 WO2020227908 A1 WO 2020227908A1
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Prior art keywords
weight
emulsion
emulsion according
polar oil
contained
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PCT/CN2019/086726
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French (fr)
Inventor
Fasong LI
Jarod LI
Zhaoxia Bao
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf Daily Chemical (Wuhan) Co. Ltd.
Beiersdorf Ag
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Application filed by Beiersdorf Daily Chemical (Wuhan) Co. Ltd., Beiersdorf Ag filed Critical Beiersdorf Daily Chemical (Wuhan) Co. Ltd.
Priority to PCT/CN2019/086726 priority Critical patent/WO2020227908A1/en
Priority to CN202080032446.6A priority patent/CN113766908A/en
Priority to PCT/EP2020/060644 priority patent/WO2020229079A1/en
Publication of WO2020227908A1 publication Critical patent/WO2020227908A1/en

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • A61K8/064Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/03Liquid compositions with two or more distinct layers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31Hydrocarbons
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/368Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof with carboxyl groups directly bound to carbon atoms of aromatic rings
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/893Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by an alkoxy or aryloxy group, e.g. behenoxy dimethicone or stearoxy dimethicone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/34Free of silicones

Definitions

  • the present invention belongs to the cosmetic field, and specifically relates to a quick breaking W/O-emulsion free from cyclomethicones.
  • emulsions are understood as heterogeneous systems, which consist of at least two liquids, which are immiscible or have only a limited miscibility with one another and which are usually referred to as phases.
  • one of the two liquids water or oil
  • the droplets pure liquids or as solutions
  • an emulsion is only of a limited stability.
  • W/O-emulsions are characterized in that watery droplets are dispersed in a continuous oil phase.
  • Quick-breaking means that by shear forces acting upon said emulsion by distributing a suitable amount of the respective emulsion preparation on the skin and/or massaging the preparation in the skin, the emulsion will decompose or “break” and release watery or milky droplets. The release of such droplets results in a refreshing and/or cooling effect.
  • W/O-emulsions being described as “quick-breaking” .
  • W/O emulsions according to CN 104968318 A contain specific emulsifiers, namely Amodimethicone Glycerocarbamat and/or Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleat. Said emulsions are free from polyethylene glycols or derivatives of polyethylene glycols.
  • the product Nivea Men Hydration Water Burst Serum (Mintel number 3478277) is a W/O-emulsion characterized by “quick-breaking” upon usage.
  • the product contains the emulsifier Lauryl-PEG-9 Polymethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone and the cyclomethiconecyclohexasiloxane. The product is available in China since September 2015.
  • the product Skin Nutrient Goat’s Milk Magic Touch produced by the company Australia Health Research &Development Group contains the emulsifier PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone and the cyclomethicone cyclopentasiloxane and is a quick-breaking emulsion.
  • Cyclomethicones may be characterized by the following formula:
  • n is from 3 to 30.
  • cyclomethicones with n representing 4 to 6 are mainly used. These components have the property to reduce the stickiness of cosmetic preparations. They are colorless and thin fluid.
  • cyclotetrasiloxane (D4) is considered as presumably affecting fertility and being harmful for aquatic organisms. Furthermore, the degradability is slow and therefore this substance may be accumulated in living organisms.
  • Cyclopentasiloxane (D5) may be absorbed and resorbed by the human organism because of its high volatility.
  • the preparations without cyclomethicones should have at least the same stability as the formulas containing cyclomethicones.
  • Cyclomethicones may be replaced by hydrocarbons. But the incorporation of hydrocarbons may result in an oily and/or greasy feeling of the preparation when being applied.
  • ⁇ at least one polar oil wherein the polar oil has an IOB value of > 0, wherein the molecular weight of the at least one polar oil is less than 600 and wherein the boiling point of the at least one polar oil is ⁇ 500°C.
  • the preparation of the present invention is a quick-breaking W/O-emulsion.
  • the preparation, the composition and the emulsion are used interchangeably in this application.
  • the emulsion breaks (decomposes) and releases watery or milky droplets.
  • the preparation according to the invention contains a considerable amount of water, namely from 50 to 95 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the preparation.
  • the preparation according to the present invention is a cosmetic preparation, more preferably intended to stay on the skin (leave-on) .
  • the oily phase consists of components, which are described as hydrophobic.
  • the hydrophobic substances are characterized by the fact that they do not comprise any cyclomethicone as described above. This holds also true for the complete W/O-emulsion, being free from cyclomethicones.
  • the hydrophobic substances are further characterized by the fact that they contain at least two components, preferably oils, which are differing in polarity.
  • oil is derived from Latin word “oleum” .
  • oil is used for water-insoluble, at 20°C liquid, organic compounds with a relatively low vapor pressure. They are not characterized by a similar chemical composition, but rather by common physical properties. Oils have a relatively high viscosity and they are soluble in almost all organic solvents.
  • the polarity is determined by calculating IOB values.
  • the IOB value is an inorganic (I) -organic (O) balance value. For all substances with definite chemical structures, the IOB value can be calculated. Each IOB value contains 2 values: the I value and the O value. The I value is used to define the inorganic property of the substance and the O value is used to define the organic property of the substance.
  • Each chemical group in the molecular structure of the respective substance has its I or O value, which is defined in below table.
  • the sum of the I or O values of each group in the molecule is the I or O value of the respective molecule.
  • Isohexadecane having the following structure:
  • Dicaprylyl carbonate having the following structure:
  • Total I value is 80.
  • the IOB values of the selected oils can be determined as shown below:
  • non-polar oils having IOB values of 0, is contained in the preparation of the present invention.
  • Non-polar oils according to the given specification comprise aliphatic, unbranched hydrocarbons having 12 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 15 to 19 carbon atoms. Said hydrocarbons may be contained as components being characterized by one specific number of carbon atoms. However, it is preferred, if blends of hydrocarbons having 15 to 19 carbon atoms (e.g. C15-19 alkane) are contained. For example, such a blend may be purchased from Total as Gemseal 40.
  • non-polar oils according to the given specification comprise branched hydrocarbons having in total 12 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 16 carbon atoms. It is preferred, if isohexadecane and/or isododecane are contained in the preparation according to the present invention.
  • the at least one non-polar oil is contained in a total amount of 0.10 to 10 %by weight, preferably 2.0 to 6.0 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the preparation.
  • At least one polar oil having an IOB value > 0, a molecular weight of less than 600 and a boiling point of ⁇ 500°C, is contained in the preparation of the present invention.
  • the at least one polar oil comprises esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of from 3 to 20 carbon atoms and saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of from 3 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • ester oils aremethyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate and/or C12-15 alkyl benzoate.
  • the at least one polar oil comprises components of the group of neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, C12-13 alkyl lactate, di-C12-13 alkyl tartrate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, tricaprylin, dimethylisosorbideand/ordiisopropyladipate.
  • the at least one polar oil according to the given specification comprises components of the group of dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates, advantageous examples being dicaprylyl ether (for example available under the trade name Cetiol OE from BASF) and/or dicaprylyl carbonate (for example available under the trade name Cetiol CC from BASF) .
  • the at least one polar oil according to the given specification comprises dimethicones.
  • Dimethicones are methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes and may be characterized by the following structural formula:
  • n 2 to about 2000.
  • the structure shown in brackets is referred to as a siloxane unit.
  • Dimethicones have various chain lengths and various molecular weights.
  • the at least one dimethicone is chosen from dimethicones, where n is 10 or more.
  • a suitable dimethicone may be purchased as DM 20 from BRB, or Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 20cSt from Dow Corning, or Edlement14 PDMS 100 from Momentive.
  • one polar oil is chosen from one of the groups described above, but likewise advantageously, combinations of two or more polar oils chosen from the groups described above are contained in the preparation according to the present invention.
  • the at least one polar oil according to the given specification is contained in a total amount of 0.10 to 10 %by weight, preferably 0.5 to 5 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the preparation.
  • the weight ratio of the at least one polar oil to the at least one non-polar oil is from 0.05 : 1 to 3 : 1.
  • the preparation according to the invention only contains one or more non-polar oil (s) and one or more polar oil (s) according to the given specifications, respectively.
  • the total oil content of the preparation according to the invention is less than 20 %by weight, preferably less than 10 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the preparation.
  • the content of the emulsifiers is not included in the total oil content.
  • the comparative example contains at least one cyclomethicone.
  • one or more emulsifier (s) is/are contained in general.
  • Emulsifiers help to combine two immiscible liquids (for example oil in water) in a way to result in a stable preparation, an emulsion. For that reason emulsifiers have to have an amphiphilic character, the hydrophobic part interacts with the oily or lipid phase and the hydrophilic part interacts with the aqueous phase. By stirring or homogenizing the generated droplets are dispersed in the respective environment, namely aqueous droplets in a lipid environment or lipid droplets in an aqueous environment. Primarily, emulsifiers do not have a detersive, surfactant character.
  • Emulsifiers reduce the interfacial tension between the two phases and, besides reducing the interfacial work, also achieve a stabilization of the emulsion formed. They stabilize the formed emulsion by means of interfacial films, as well as by forming steric or electrical barriers, as a result of which the merging (coalescence) of the emulsified particles is prevented.
  • HLB values are suitable to characterize emulsifiers, said values specify the hydrophilicity of a given emulsifier.
  • the HLB value may be determined by the following formula:
  • HLB 20 ⁇ (1-M lipophile /M)
  • M lipophile represents the molar mass of the lipophilic fraction of a given emulsifier and M represents the molar mass of the total emulsifier.
  • emulsifiers with an HLB value up to about 8 are considered to be W/O-emulsifiers.
  • O/W-emulsifiers have HLB values of greater than 8 to 15.
  • Substances with HLB values greater than 15 are often referred to as solubilizers.
  • the emulsifier is a W/O-emulsifier, especially one, which is dimethicone based.
  • a preferred dimethicone based emulsifier is Lauryl PEG-10 Tris (Trimethylsiloxy) silylethyl Dimethicone, which may be purchased from Dow Corning as Dowsil ES 5300 Formulation Aid.
  • dimethicone based emulsifier is Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, which may be purchased from Evonic as AbilEM 90 orAbil EM 180.
  • the at least one emulsifier is contained in a total amount of 0.1 to 5.0 %by weight, preferably 0.2 to 2 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the preparation.
  • moisturizers are hygroscopic substances which bind water and thereby provide moisture.
  • the hygroscopic quality is due to hydrophilic substituents of the molecule, in many cases hydroxyl groups, but other functional groups as for instance, amine or carboxyl groups may act in the same way.
  • moisturizers examples include propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and butylene glycol, glyceryl triacetate, glycerol, sorbitol, xylitol, maltitol, polydextrose, hydrogenated starch hydrolysate, urea, Aloe vera gel, alpha hydroxy acids such as lactic acid, honey.
  • Preferred moisturizers are glycerol, butylene glycol and/or propylene glycol.
  • the at least one moisturizer is preferably contained in a total amount of 1.0 to 30.0 %by weight, more preferably 5.0 to 10.0 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • At least one preservative is contained in the composition of the present invention. All preservatives, which are allowed and suitable for cosmetic preparations may be contained. However, it is preferred, if methylparaben, ethylparaben, and Phenoxyethanol, or mixtures thereof are contained. Other preservatives may also be used, for example Benzyl Alcohol, Methylisothiazolinone, Methylchloroisothiazolinone and/or DMDM Hydantoin. These preservatives may be used alone or in combination or in combination with the above mentioned preferred preservatives.
  • the at least one preservative is preferably contained in a total amount of 0.01 to 3.0 %by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 1.0 %by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the values are referring to the active content of the preservatives.
  • ethanol may be contained. Ethanol has a preservative effect and is often classified as a preservative. Ethanol may be contained as denatured alcohol. If ethanol is contained in the preparation of the present invention, the amount of ethanol ranges from 0.5 to 20 %by weight, preferably 0.7 to 10 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the preparation.
  • At least one substance is contained, which is not classified as a preservative itself, but, however may support or increase the effect of the preservative (s) contained in the composition of the invention.
  • Such substances are propylene glycol, ethylhexylglycerine, 1, 2-hexanediole, methylpropanediole, butylene glycole, caprylylglycol, pentyleneglycol and/or hydroxyacetophenone.
  • the substance (s) is/are contained in the composition of the present invention, the substance (s) is/are preferably contained in a total amount of 1 to 30 %by weight, more preferably 5 to 10 %by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the values are referring to the active content of the substances.
  • the complexing components are chosen from EDTA, [S, S] -ethylenediaminedisuccinate (EDDS) , pentasodiumethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonate and/or iminodisuccinic acid. If at least one complexing component is contained in the preparation of the present invention, the at least one complexing component is present in an amount of 0.1 to 5 %by weight, preferably 0.5 to 2 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the preparation.
  • components stabilizing the preparation may be contained.
  • physiologically compatible salts may be contained, more preferably sodium chloride is contained.
  • the at least one stabilizing component, especially sodium chloride is contained in the composition of the present invention, the at least one stabilizing component, especially sodium chloride is preferably contained in a total amount of 0.1 to 5.0 %by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 1.5 %by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic preparation according to the invention may comprise cosmetic auxiliaries being in general contained in such preparations, e.g. perfumes, dyes, pigments which have a coloring action, fillers, which improve the feel on the skin, and other customary constituents of a cosmetic formulation.
  • cosmetic auxiliaries being in general contained in such preparations, e.g. perfumes, dyes, pigments which have a coloring action, fillers, which improve the feel on the skin, and other customary constituents of a cosmetic formulation.
  • the preparation according to the invention is free from cyclomethicones.
  • “free from” means that less than 0.1 %by weight, preferably less than 0.01 %by weight, and most preferably 0 %by weight of the respective substance is contained, in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • normal conditions refers to 20°C, 1013 hPa and a relative humidity of 50%.
  • Fig. 1 shows the results of the evaluation.
  • composition of the present invention may be prepared by any technique known or effective to prepare a “quick-breaking” W/O-emulsion.
  • the process to prepare the composition of the present invention comprises conventional formulating and mixing techniques. However, it is preferred, if the preparation according to the present invention is prepared by the following method:
  • Nivea Men Hydrating Water Burst Serum The INCI listing of Nivea Men Hydrating Water Burst Serum discloses the following components: Aqua, Glycerin, Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Glucoside, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, GlycyrrhizaGlabra Root Extract, FucusVesiculosus Extract, Maris Limus Extract, Ostrea Shell Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Perfume.
  • Aqua Aqua
  • Glycerin Cyclomethicone
  • Dimethicone Propylene Glycol
  • Sodium Chloride Sodium Hyaluronate
  • the preparations were used to conduct a Sensory Panel Evaluation.
  • the evaluation was performed according to the following method:
  • the skin area of applying the respective product is marked by using a stamp. Maximal 3 areas are marked on each arm, and on each area one product will be applied. In total, 6 products may be evaluated in one panel (including 1 standard product, which is used for providing the score for calibration) .
  • the panel organizer dispenses one product on each marked area and starts the beeper for massaging the product with a certain frequency.
  • the panelists start a timer and massage the product, meanwhile evaluating the sensory criteria during application. Touch the skin and evaluate the sensory criteria immediately after absorption.
  • Example preparations (Examples 1 to 12) were prepared and filled into 50ml transparent glass bottle with plastic cap.
  • the comparative product Naivea Men Hydrating Water Burst Serum
  • the test samples were stored as indicated below.
  • Example 7 The preparation according to Example 7 and Nivea Men Hydrating Water Burst Serum were filled into 200ml glass bottles with plastic cap and stored at 50°C and at -18°C for 30 days, then stored at 25°C for 24 hours to restore the temperature of 25°C. Then the viscosity was determined using the viscosimeter ProRheo R123 (measuring bob 1; if higher viscosity values were to be determined (higher than 10,000 mPa ⁇ s) , measuring bob 2 was used) at 25°C. The results are shown below:

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Abstract

A quick breaking W/O-emulsion free from cyclomethicones contains at least one non-polar oil having an IOB value of 0 and at least one polar oil which has an IOB value > 0, the molecular weight less than 600 and the boiling point < 500℃.The W/O-emulsion provides a pleasant fresh feeling and does not leave an impression of distinct greasiness or oiliness on the skin.

Description

[Title established by the ISA under Rule 37.2] QUICK BREAKING W/O-EMULSION FREE FROM CYCLOMETHICONES Technical field
The present invention belongs to the cosmetic field, and specifically relates to a quick breaking W/O-emulsion free from cyclomethicones.
Background art
In general, emulsions are understood as heterogeneous systems, which consist of at least two liquids, which are immiscible or have only a limited miscibility with one another and which are usually referred to as phases. In an emulsion, one of the two liquids (water or oil) is dispersed in the form of very fine droplets in the other liquid (oil or water, respectively) . In an emulsion the droplets (pure liquids or as solutions) are present in a more or less fine distribution. In general, without an emulsifier an emulsion is only of a limited stability.
W/O-emulsions are characterized in that watery droplets are dispersed in a continuous oil phase. “Quick-breaking” means that by shear forces acting upon said emulsion by distributing a suitable amount of the respective emulsion preparation on the skin and/or massaging the preparation in the skin, the emulsion will decompose or “break” and release watery or milky droplets. The release of such droplets results in a refreshing and/or cooling effect.
Prior art already discloses W/O-emulsions being described as “quick-breaking” . W/O emulsions according to CN 104968318 A contain specific emulsifiers, namely Amodimethicone Glycerocarbamat and/or Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleat. Said emulsions are free from polyethylene glycols or derivatives of polyethylene glycols.
The product Nivea Men Hydration Water Burst Serum (Mintel number 3478277) is a W/O-emulsion characterized by “quick-breaking” upon usage. The product contains the emulsifier Lauryl-PEG-9 Polymethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone and the cyclomethiconecyclohexasiloxane. The product is available in China since September 2015.
The product Skin Nutrient Goat’s Milk Magic Touch produced by the company Australia Health Research &Development Group contains the emulsifier PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone and the cyclomethicone cyclopentasiloxane and is a quick-breaking emulsion.
An analysis of quick-breaking W/O-emulsions was published in 2008 (Personal Care, Hai Zhou Zhang, et. al., March 2008, page 45) . All example formulations disclosed therein  contain the emulsifier ABIL EM 90 (cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone) and the cyclomethicones, e.g., cyclopentasiloxane and cyclohexasiloxane.
Concluding from prior art there is a considerable preference for including cyclomethiones in quick-breaking W/O-emulsions.
Cyclomethicones may be characterized by the following formula:
Figure PCTCN2019086726-appb-000001
wherein n is from 3 to 30.
In cosmetic preparations cyclomethicones with n representing 4 to 6 are mainly used. These components have the property to reduce the stickiness of cosmetic preparations. They are colorless and thin fluid.
According to new evaluations cyclotetrasiloxane (D4) is considered as presumably affecting fertility and being harmful for aquatic organisms. Furthermore, the degradability is slow and therefore this substance may be accumulated in living organisms.
Cyclopentasiloxane (D5) may be absorbed and resorbed by the human organism because of its high volatility.
Hence, it is desirable to replace cyclomethicones in cosmetic preparations.
Moreover, the preparations without cyclomethicones should have at least the same stability as the formulas containing cyclomethicones.
Cyclomethicones may be replaced by hydrocarbons. But the incorporation of hydrocarbons may result in an oily and/or greasy feeling of the preparation when being applied.
Therefore, there is also a need to make quick-breaking W/O-emulsions available providing a pleasant fresh feeling and without leaving an impression of distinct greasiness or oiliness on the skin.
Summary of the invention
Surprisingly, the above mentioned problems could be solved by a quick-breaking W/O-emulsion free from cyclomethicones, containing besides water
- at least one emulsifier,
- an oily phase, containing
● at least one non-polar oil, wherein the non-polar oil has an IOB value of 0, and
● at least one polar oil, wherein the polar oil has an IOB value of > 0, wherein the molecular weight of the at least one polar oil is less than 600 and wherein the boiling point of the at least one polar oil is < 500℃.
As described above, the preparation of the present invention is a quick-breaking W/O-emulsion. The preparation, the composition and the emulsion are used interchangeably in this application. By shear forces acting on said emulsion, the emulsion breaks (decomposes) and releases watery or milky droplets. For achieving this, the preparation according to the invention contains a considerable amount of water, namely from 50 to 95 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the preparation.
Preferably, the preparation according to the present invention is a cosmetic preparation, more preferably intended to stay on the skin (leave-on) .
According to the present invention the oily phase consists of components, which are described as hydrophobic. The hydrophobic substances are characterized by the fact that they do not comprise any cyclomethicone as described above. This holds also true for the complete W/O-emulsion, being free from cyclomethicones. The hydrophobic substances are further characterized by the fact that they contain at least two components, preferably oils, which are differing in polarity.
The term oil is derived from Latin word “oleum” . The term oil is used for water-insoluble, at 20℃ liquid, organic compounds with a relatively low vapor pressure. They are not characterized by a similar chemical composition, but rather by common physical properties. Oils have a relatively high viscosity and they are soluble in almost all organic solvents.
The polarity is determined by calculating IOB values.
The IOB value is an inorganic (I) -organic (O) balance value. For all substances with definite chemical structures, the IOB value can be calculated. Each IOB value contains 2 values: the I value and the O value. The I value is used to define the inorganic property of the substance and the O value is used to define the organic property of the substance.
Each chemical group in the molecular structure of the respective substance has its I or O value, which is defined in below table. The sum of the I or O values of each group in the molecule is the I or O value of the respective molecule.
Group I value O value
C 0 20
Light Metal Salt 500 0
Heavy Metal Salt 400 0
NH 4 Salt 400 0
-SO 2-NH-CO- 260 0
-SO 2-NH- 240 0
-CO-NH-CO- 230 40
=N-OH 220 0
=N-NH- 200 20
-COOH 150 20
-CO-O-CO- 110 40
-OH 100 0
-NH-NH- 80 0
-O-CO-O- 80 20
-C=O 65 20
-NO 2 70 70
-CN- 70 40
-NO 50 50
-NCO 30 30
-I 10 80
-Br 10 60
-Cl 10 40
-F 5 5
C=NH 50 20
-N=N- 30 0
-O- 20 0
Naphthalene 60 200
Benzene 15 120
Carbon cycle 10 CX20
Alkylene 3 0
-C=C (Alkene) 2 0
-O-O- 40 0
GLU-O- 75 0
(-O-CH 2-CH 2-) 75 40
Iso Branch 0 -10
TertBranch 0 -20
-Si- 0 20
For illustration, the determination of the IOB value for isohexadecane is shown:
Isohexadecane having the following structure:
Figure PCTCN2019086726-appb-000002
There is no group providing an I value, hencethe I value is 0.
The O value of each carbon is 20, isohexadecane having 16 carbon atoms, thus 20*16=320, there is one iso-branch, having an O value of -10, in sum, the total O value is 20*16-10=310. Calculating the ratio, 0/310 = 0, an IOB value of 0 results.
Dicaprylyl carbonate having the following structure:
Figure PCTCN2019086726-appb-000003
Calculation of the I value:
-C 8H 17: 0
-O-CO-O-: 80
Total I value is 80.
Calculation of the O value:
-C 8H 17: 160
-O-CO-O-: 20
Total O value: 160*2+20=340, calculating the  ratio (IOB value) 80 /340 = 0, 235.
According the calculation method shown above, the IOB values of the selected oils can be determined as shown below:
Non-polar oils: IOB value
C15-19 Alkane I/O=0/300 to 0/480=0
Isohexadecane I/O=0/310=0
Isododecane I/O=0/230=0
   
Polar oils:  
Dicaprylyl Carbonate I/O=80/340=0.24
Dicaprylyl Ether I/O=20/320=0.06
Isopropyl Palmitate I/O= 85/390=0.22
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate I/O=140/340 to 140/400=0.41 to 0.35
Methyl Palmitate I/O=85/360=0.24
Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate I/O=170/440=0.39
DiisopropylAdipate I/O= 170/230=0.74
Dimethicone (n≥10) I/O=240/520 to 20n/40n*= 0, 35 to 0, 5
*If n is a high number, the end groups of dimethicone may be ignored, so that the ratio of 20n/40n defines the IOB value.
According to the present invention at least one non-polar oil, having IOB values of 0, is contained in the preparation of the present invention. Non-polar oils according to the given specification comprise aliphatic, unbranched hydrocarbons having 12 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 15 to 19 carbon atoms. Said hydrocarbons may be contained as components being characterized by one specific number of carbon atoms. However, it is preferred, if blends of hydrocarbons having 15 to 19 carbon atoms (e.g. C15-19 alkane) are contained. For example, such a blend may be purchased from Total as Gemseal 40.
Furthermore, non-polar oils according to the given specification comprise branched hydrocarbons having in total 12 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 16 carbon atoms. It is preferred, if isohexadecane and/or isododecane are contained in the preparation according to the present invention.
It is more preferred, if combinations of one or more aliphatic, unbranched hydrocarbon (s) having 15 to 16 carbon atoms, especially as a blend, and one or more branched hydrocarbon (s) having in total 12 to 14 carbon atoms are contained in the preparation according to the invention.
Advantageously, in the preparation according to the present invention the at least one non-polar oil is contained in a total amount of 0.10 to 10 %by weight, preferably 2.0 to 6.0 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the preparation.
According to the present invention at least one polar oil, having an IOB value > 0, a molecular weight of less than 600 and a boiling point of < 500℃, is contained in the preparation of the present invention.
The at least one polar oil according to the given specification comprises esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of from 3 to 20 carbon atoms and saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of from 3 to 20 carbon atoms. Examples for such ester oils aremethyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate and/or C12-15 alkyl benzoate.
Furthermore, the at least one polar oil according to the given specification comprises components of the group of neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, C12-13 alkyl lactate, di-C12-13 alkyl tartrate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, tricaprylin, dimethylisosorbideand/ordiisopropyladipate.
Still furthermore, the at least one polar oil according to the given specification comprises components of the group of dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates, advantageous examples being dicaprylyl ether (for example available under the trade name Cetiol OE from BASF) and/or dicaprylyl carbonate (for example available under the trade name Cetiol CC from BASF) .
Even still furthermore, the at least one polar oil according to the given specification comprises dimethicones.
Dimethicones are methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes and may be characterized by the following structural formula:
Figure PCTCN2019086726-appb-000004
wherein n is 2 to about 2000. The structure shown in brackets is referred to as a siloxane unit.
Dimethicones have various chain lengths and various molecular weights.
According to the invention the at least one dimethicone is chosen from dimethicones, where n is 10 or more.
A suitable dimethicone may be purchased as DM 20 from BRB, or Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 20cSt from Dow Corning, or Edlement14 PDMS 100 from Momentive.
Advantageously, one polar oil is chosen from one of the groups described above, but likewise advantageously, combinations of two or more polar oils chosen from the groups described above are contained in the preparation according to the present invention.
Advantageously, in the preparation according to the present invention the at least one polar oil according to the given specification is contained in a total amount of 0.10 to 10 %by weight, preferably 0.5 to 5 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the preparation.
Advantageously, the weight ratio of the at least one polar oil to the at least one non-polar oil is from 0.05 : 1 to 3 : 1.
Advantageously, the preparation according to the invention only contains one or more non-polar oil (s) and one or more polar oil (s) according to the given specifications, respectively.
Advantageously, the total oil content of the preparation according to the invention is less than 20 %by weight, preferably less than 10 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the preparation. In the meaning of the present invention, the content of the emulsifiers is not included in the total oil content.
The comparative example contains at least one cyclomethicone.
To stabilize an emulsion, one or more emulsifier (s) is/are contained in general.
Emulsifiers help to combine two immiscible liquids (for example oil in water) in a way to result in a stable preparation, an emulsion. For that reason emulsifiers have to have an amphiphilic character, the hydrophobic part interacts with the oily or lipid phase and the hydrophilic part interacts with the aqueous phase. By stirring or homogenizing the generated droplets are dispersed in the respective environment, namely aqueous droplets in a lipid environment or lipid droplets in an aqueous environment. Primarily, emulsifiers do not have a detersive, surfactant character. Emulsifiers reduce the interfacial tension between the two phases and, besides reducing the interfacial work, also achieve a stabilization of the emulsion formed. They stabilize the formed emulsion by means of interfacial films, as well as by forming steric or electrical barriers, as a result of which the merging (coalescence) of the emulsified particles is prevented.
HLB values are suitable to characterize emulsifiers, said values specify the hydrophilicity of a given emulsifier. The HLB value may be determined by the following formula:
HLB=20× (1-M lipophile/M) ,
Where M lipophile represents the molar mass of the lipophilic fraction of a given emulsifier and M represents the molar mass of the total emulsifier.
In general, emulsifiers with an HLB value up to about 8 are considered to be W/O-emulsifiers. By contrast, O/W-emulsifiers have HLB values of greater than 8 to 15. Substances with HLB values greater than 15 are often referred to as solubilizers.
Advantageously, according to the invention the emulsifier is a W/O-emulsifier, especially one, which is dimethicone based.
A preferred dimethicone based emulsifier is Lauryl PEG-10 Tris (Trimethylsiloxy) silylethyl Dimethicone, which may be purchased from Dow Corning as Dowsil ES 5300 Formulation Aid.
It is likewise preferred, if the dimethicone based emulsifier is Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, which may be purchased from Evonic as AbilEM 90 orAbil EM 180.
Advantageously, in the preparation according to the present invention the at least one emulsifier is contained in a total amount of 0.1 to 5.0 %by weight, preferably 0.2 to 2 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the preparation.
Advantageously, according to the invention additionally at least one moisturizer is contained in the composition of the present invention. Moisturizers are hygroscopic substances which bind water and thereby provide moisture. The hygroscopic quality is due to hydrophilic substituents of the molecule, in many cases hydroxyl groups, but other functional groups as  for instance, amine or carboxyl groups may act in the same way. Examples of moisturizers are propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and butylene glycol, glyceryl triacetate, glycerol, sorbitol, xylitol, maltitol, polydextrose, hydrogenated starch hydrolysate, urea, Aloe vera gel, alpha hydroxy acids such as lactic acid, honey. Preferred moisturizers are glycerol, butylene glycol and/or propylene glycol.
If at least one moisturizer is contained in the composition of the present invention, the at least one moisturizer is preferably contained in a total amount of 1.0 to 30.0 %by weight, more preferably 5.0 to 10.0 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.
Advantageously, according to the invention additionally at least one preservative is contained in the composition of the present invention. All preservatives, which are allowed and suitable for cosmetic preparations may be contained. However, it is preferred, if methylparaben, ethylparaben, and Phenoxyethanol, or mixtures thereof are contained. Other preservatives may also be used, for example Benzyl Alcohol, Methylisothiazolinone, Methylchloroisothiazolinone and/or DMDM Hydantoin. These preservatives may be used alone or in combination or in combination with the above mentioned preferred preservatives.
If at least one preservative is contained in the composition of the present invention, the at least one preservative is preferably contained in a total amount of 0.01 to 3.0 %by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 1.0 %by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The values are referring to the active content of the preservatives.
Additionally, ethanol may be contained. Ethanol has a preservative effect and is often classified as a preservative. Ethanol may be contained as denatured alcohol. If ethanol is contained in the preparation of the present invention, the amount of ethanol ranges from 0.5 to 20 %by weight, preferably 0.7 to 10 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the preparation.
Advantageously, according to the invention additionally at least one substance is contained, which is not classified as a preservative itself, but, however may support or increase the effect of the preservative (s) contained in the composition of the invention. Such substances are propylene glycol, ethylhexylglycerine, 1, 2-hexanediole, methylpropanediole, butylene glycole, caprylylglycol, pentyleneglycol and/or hydroxyacetophenone.
If said substance (s) is/are contained in the composition of the present invention, the substance (s) is/are preferably contained in a total amount of 1 to 30 %by weight, more preferably 5 to 10 %by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The values are referring to the active content of the substances.
Advantageously, according to the invention additionally complexing components may be contained. Preferably, the complexing components are chosen from EDTA, [S, S] -ethylenediaminedisuccinate (EDDS) , pentasodiumethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonate and/or iminodisuccinic acid. If at least one complexing component is contained in the preparation of the present invention, the at least one complexing component is present in an amount of 0.1 to 5 %by weight, preferably 0.5 to 2 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the preparation.
Advantageously, according to the invention additionally components stabilizing the preparation may be contained. Preferably, physiologically compatible salts may be contained, more preferably sodium chloride is contained.
If at least one stabilizing component, especially sodium chloride is contained in the composition of the present invention, the at least one stabilizing component, especially sodium chloride is preferably contained in a total amount of 0.1 to 5.0 %by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 1.5 %by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The cosmetic preparation according to the invention may comprise cosmetic auxiliaries being in general contained in such preparations, e.g. perfumes, dyes, pigments which have a coloring action, fillers, which improve the feel on the skin, and other customary constituents of a cosmetic formulation.
Advantageously, the preparation according to the invention is free from cyclomethicones. In the meaning of the present invention “free from” means that less than 0.1 %by weight, preferably less than 0.01 %by weight, and most preferably 0 %by weight of the respective substance is contained, in relation to the total weight of the composition.
Unless otherwise stated, all tests and measurements were performed under “normal conditions” . The term "normal conditions" refers to 20℃, 1013 hPa and a relative humidity of 50%.
Brief description of the Drawings
Fig. 1 shows the results of the evaluation.
Examples
The examples below are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting it. The numerical values in the examples are percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the particular preparations, given as active content.
Preparation method
The composition of the present invention may be prepared by any technique known or effective to prepare a “quick-breaking” W/O-emulsion. The process to prepare the composition of the present invention comprises conventional formulating and mixing techniques. However, it is preferred, if the preparation according to the present invention is prepared by the following method:
1. Mix and dissolve the polar oil (s) , non-polar oil (s) and emulsifier (s) and other oil soluble components.
2. Mix and dissolve the water soluble components well.
3. Add the water soluble components slowly to oil soluble components while stirring to form the W/O emulsion.
Test method
Preparations according to Examples 7 and 12 were prepared and compared to Nivea Men Hydrating Water Burst Serum. The INCI listing of Nivea Men Hydrating Water Burst Serum discloses the following components: Aqua, Glycerin, Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Glucoside, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, GlycyrrhizaGlabra Root Extract, FucusVesiculosus Extract, Maris Limus Extract, Ostrea Shell Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Perfume.
The preparations were used to conduct a Sensory Panel Evaluation. The evaluation was performed according to the following method:
Panelists: 10 trained panelists joined the evaluation. The skin of the panelists was characterized as normal, the test was performed on their arms.
Panel Room: Temperature: 23-27℃, humidity: 50-60%,
Process:
○ Panelists are sitting at a desk for 10 minutes (acclimation time) .
○ The skin area of applying the respective product is marked by using a stamp. Maximal 3 areas are marked on each arm, and on each area one product will be applied. In total, 6 products may be evaluated in one panel (including 1 standard product, which is used for providing the score for calibration) .
○ The panel organizer dispenses one product on each marked area and starts the beeper for massaging the product with a certain frequency.
○ The panelists start a timer and massage the product, meanwhile evaluating the sensory criteria during application. Touch the skin and evaluate the sensory criteria immediately after absorption.
Scale:
○ Watery: 0: Extremely dry, 10: Extremely watery.
○ Less oily: 0: Extremely oily, 10: Not oily at all.
○ Less Greasy: 0: Extremely greasy, 10: Not greasy at all.
○ Less Residue: 0: High amount of residues, 10: Clean and no residues.
○ Smoothness: 0: Rough and not smooth, 10: Extremely smooth.
The results of the evaluation are shown in the table below and illustrated by Fig. 1.
Figure PCTCN2019086726-appb-000005
It becomes apparent that referring to smoothness, residues left on the skin, and greasiness, the products of the invention are evaluated in about the same range as the comparative product. Looking at the oiliness and the providing of water (droplets) the products according to the invention are evaluated better than the comparative product. The results show that products according to the invention solve the above mentioned problem.
Furthermore, the stability was analyzed.
To evaluate long-term storage, the example preparations (Examples 1 to 12) were prepared and filled into 50ml transparent glass bottle with plastic cap. The comparative product (Nivea Men Hydrating Water Burst Serum) was filled in the same glass bottles. The test samples were stored as indicated below.
Figure PCTCN2019086726-appb-000006
Figure PCTCN2019086726-appb-000007
OK means no obvious water or oil separation, no color change.
To evaluate the consistency and also stability, viscosity values were determined.
The preparation according to Example 7 and Nivea Men Hydrating Water Burst Serum were filled into 200ml glass bottles with plastic cap and stored at 50℃ and at -18℃ for 30 days, then stored at 25℃ for 24 hours to restore the temperature of 25℃. Then the viscosity was determined using the viscosimeter ProRheo R123 (measuring bob 1; if higher viscosity values were to be determined (higher than 10,000 mPa·s) , measuring bob 2 was used) at 25℃. The results are shown below:
Figure PCTCN2019086726-appb-000008
The results show that after having been stored at a hot and a very cold temperature, the test samples were not decomposed, as the viscosity measurement shows. Moreover, the viscosity values are varying only in a range that is expected.
Figure PCTCN2019086726-appb-000009

Claims (20)

  1. A quick-breaking W/O-emulsion free from cyclomethicones, containing besides water
    - at least one emulsifier,
    - an oily phase, containing
    · at least one non-polar oil, wherein the at least one non-polar oils has an IOB value of 0, and
    · at least one polar oil, wherein the at least one polar oil has an IOB value > 0, wherein the molecular weight of the at least one polar oil is less than 600 and wherein the boiling point of the at least polar oil is < 500℃.
  2. The W/O-emulsion according to claim 1 characterized in that water is contained in an amount of 50 to 95 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the emulsion.
  3. The W/O-emulsion according to claim 1 or 2 characterized in that the at least one non-polar oil is chosen from aliphatic, unbranched hydrocarbons having 12 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 15 to 19 carbon atoms.
  4. The W/O-emulsion according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that a blend of aliphatic, unbranched hydrocarbons having 15 to 19 carbon atoms, preferably a blend with the INCI name C15-19 alkane is contained.
  5. The W/O-emulsion according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the at least one non-polar oil is chosen from branched hydrocarbons having in total 12 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 16 carbon atoms, more preferably isohexadecane and/or isododecane.
  6. The W/O-emulsion according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the non-polar oils are chosen from combinations of one or more aliphatic, unbranched hydrocarbon (s) having 15 to 16 carbon atoms, especially as a blend, and one or more branched hydrocarbon (s) having in total 12 to 14 carbon atoms.
  7. The W/O-emulsion according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the at least one non-polar oil is contained in a total amount of 0.10 to 10 %by weight, preferably 2.0 to 6.0 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the emulsion.
  8. The W/O-emulsion according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the at least one polar oil is chosen from esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of from 3 to 20 carbon atoms and saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from methyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate and/or C12-15 alkyl benzoate.
  9. The W/O-emulsion according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the at least one polar oilis chosen from the group of neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, C12-13 alkyl lactate, di-C12-13 alkyl tartrate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, tricaprylin, dimethylisosorbide and/or diisopropyladipate, preferably butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate and/or diisopropyladipate.
  10. The W/O-emulsion according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the at least one polar oil is chosen from the group of dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates, preferably dicaprylyl ether and/or dicaprylyl carbonate.
  11. The W/O-emulsion according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the at least one polar oil is chosen from and/or one or more dimethicone (s) , having 10 or more siloxane units.
  12. The W/O-emulsion according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the at least one polar oil is contained in a total amount of 0.10 to 10 %by weight, preferably 0.5 to 5 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the emulsion.
  13. The W/O-emulsion according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the weight ratio of the polar oil (s) to non-polar oil (s) is from 0.05 : 1 to 3 : 1.
  14. The W/O-emulsion according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the total oil content is less than 20 %by weight, preferably less than 10 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the emulsion.
  15. The W/O-emulsion according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the at least one emulsifier is a W/O-emulsifier, preferably a dimethicone based W/O-emulsifier, more preferably Lauryl PEG-10 Tris (Trimethylsiloxy) silylethyl Dimethicone and/or Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone.
  16. The W/O-emulsion according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the at least one emulsifier is contained in a total amount of 0.1 to 5.0 %by weight, preferably 0.2 to 2 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the emulsion.
  17. The W/O-emulsion according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that additionally at least one moisturizer is contained, preferably chosen from propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and butylene glycol, glyceryl triacetate, glycerol, sorbitol, xylitol, maltitol, polydextrose, hydrogenated starch hydrolysate, urea, Aloe vera gel, alpha hydroxy acids such as lactic acid, honey, more preferably from glycerol, butylene glycol and/or propylene glycol.
  18. The W/O-emulsion according to claim 17 characterized in that the at least one moisturizer is contained in a total amount of 1.0 to 30.0 %by weight, preferably 5.0 to 10.0 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the emulsion.
  19. The W/O-emulsion according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that additionally at least one preservative is contained, preferably chosen methylparaben, ethylparaben, and Phenoxyethanol, or mixtures thereof.
  20. The W/O-emulsion according to claim 19 characterized in that the at least one preservative is contained in a total amount of 0.01 to 3.0 %by weight, preferably 0.1 to 1.0 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the emulsion and in relation to the active content.
PCT/CN2019/086726 2019-05-14 2019-05-14 Quick breaking w/o-emulsion free from cyclomethicones WO2020227908A1 (en)

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