CN113576973A

CN113576973A - Skin-tendering and caring cosmetic and preparation method thereof

Info

Publication number: CN113576973A
Application number: CN202110932154.4A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 张庆; 孔令超
Original assignee: Guangzhou Jintong Biotechnology Co ltd
Current assignee: Guangzhou Jintong Biotechnology Co ltd
Priority date: 2021-08-13
Filing date: 2021-08-13
Publication date: 2021-11-02
Anticipated expiration: 2041-08-13
Also published as: CN113576973B

Abstract

The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a skin-tendering and caring cosmetic and a preparation method thereof. The skin-tendering and caring cosmetic contains various active ingredients such as hydrolyzed ulva extract, astragalus membranaceus root extract, soluble collagen cross-linked polymer, isononyl isononanoate, diisopropyl dimer linoleate, shea butter, squalane and the like. Through researching the growth promoting effect of the plant active extract on collagen, the combination of the hydrolyzed ulva extract and the astragalus membranaceus root extract with the optimal effect is obtained through screening. On the basis, the soluble collagen cross-linked polymer and multiple skin tendering components are further reasonably combined, and the skin tendering and caring cosmetic composition is further obtained. The cosmetic prepared from the skin-tendering and caring cosmetic composition can be used for making skin plump and tight, eliminating fine lines, making aged skin compact, tender and smooth, and glossy, can remarkably improve skin quality in a short time, is mild and non-irritant, and has no side effect after long-term use.

Description

Skin-tendering and caring cosmetic and preparation method thereof

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a skin-tendering and caring cosmetic and a preparation method thereof.

Background

About 80% of the skin components, except water, are composed of collagen, which is mainly associated with the loss of elasticity after skin aging. Collagen is the main component for maintaining the elasticity of skin and muscle. But with age the moisture in the skin and muscles decreases, which is the onset of aging. At this time, collagen fibers begin to become fine, the elasticity of elastin is also reduced, and the original dermal collagen and elastin interact to form a regular mesh structure, which gradually disintegrates, resulting in the formation of wrinkles. In addition, due to various reasons such as environmental pollution, ultraviolet irradiation and mental stress, the skin becomes dry, thin and elastic, and wrinkles on the face gradually increase, which is why the skin is aged and loses youthful luster. Therefore, it is essential to properly supplement collagen when the skin enters the aging stage. Collagen products are often used in cosmetics where it is desired to increase the moisturizing, skin-repairing, etc. functions of the cosmetics.

In general, common collagen is orally taken or externally applied, the bioavailability is very low, and especially macromolecular collagen in cosmetics has no effect on skin nutrition and repair. Therefore, collagen is hydrolyzed into peptides by enzymatic hydrolysis, etc. to improve its bioavailability. Most of hydrolyzed collagen in early and present markets is mainly composed of 30-100 amino acids to form polyamino acid or collagen polypeptide, the average molecular weight is 1000-10000D, and the skin permeability, bioavailability and efficacy of the hydrolyzed collagen are improved compared with macromolecular collagen, but are still limited. The soluble collagen cross-linked polymer combines human-like collagen with hyaluronic acid to form a macromolecular dense mesh-like porous structure, and has the effects of moisturizing, tightening skin, tendering, nourishing, caring skin barrier and the like. However, there is a continuous need for research and improvement on how to further develop cosmetic products having more excellent skin-tendering effects.

Disclosure of Invention

In order to solve the technical problems, the invention provides a skin-tendering and caring cosmetic and a preparation method thereof. By screening and adding plant active extracts of proper types on the basis of the soluble collagen cross-linked polymer and reasonably matching multiple skin-tendering components, the aged skin becomes compact, tender and smooth and glossy, and the skin quality can be obviously improved in a short time.

In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the technical scheme that:

the skin tendering and caring cosmetic composition comprises the following raw material components in parts by weight: 4-8 parts of hydrolyzed ulva extract, 4-8 parts of astragalus membranaceus root extract, 2-6 parts of soluble collagen cross-linked polymer, 1-3 parts of isononyl isononanoate, 1-3 parts of diisopropyl dimerate linoleate, 1-3 parts of shea butter and 1-3 parts of squalane.

Preferably, the skin-tendering and caring cosmetic composition comprises the following raw material components in parts by weight: 5-7 parts of hydrolyzed ulva extract, 5-7 parts of astragalus membranaceus root extract, 3-5 parts of soluble collagen cross-linked polymer, 1.5-2.5 parts of isononyl isononanoate, 1.5-2.5 parts of diisopropyl dimerized linoleate, 1.5-2.5 parts of shea butter and 1.5-2.5 parts of squalane.

Preferably, the skin-tendering and caring cosmetic composition comprises the following raw material components in parts by weight: 6 parts of hydrolyzed ulva extract, 6 parts of astragalus membranaceus root extract, 4 parts of soluble collagen cross-linked polymer, 2 parts of isononyl isononanoate, 2 parts of diisopropyl dimerized linoleate, 2 parts of shea butter and 2 parts of squalane.

Further, the invention also provides a skin-tendering and caring cosmetic which comprises the following raw material components in parts by weight: 14-34 parts of the skin tendering and caring cosmetic composition, 5-10 parts of an emulsifier, 2-8 parts of a humectant, 2-8 parts of a thickener, 0-2 parts of a preservative, 0.5-1 part of a chelating agent and 30-50 parts of deionized water.

Preferably, the emulsifier is at least one selected from the group consisting of cetearyl alcohol, cetearyl glucoside, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-20 methylgluco-sesquistearate.

Preferably, the humectant is at least one selected from glycerin, polyethylene glycol and ceramide.

Preferably, the thickener is selected from at least one of carbomer, acrylates/copolymers, xanthan gum, gum arabic.

Preferably, the preservative is at least one selected from pentanediol, sodium benzoate and phenoxyethanol.

Preferably, the chelating agent is EDTA-2 Na.

Further, the invention also provides a preparation method of the skin-tendering and caring cosmetic, which comprises the following steps:

(1) weighing the raw material components in parts by weight for later use;

(2) adding a thickening agent into deionized water, and stirring to completely disperse the thickening agent to obtain a material A;

(3) adding a humectant, a preservative and a chelating agent into the material A, heating to 60-65 ℃, and uniformly stirring to obtain a material B;

(4) naturally cooling, adding emulsifier and skin-tendering and caring cosmetic composition into material B, homogenizing at 30-35 deg.C and 3000rpm for 5-10 min to completely emulsify, mixing, and discharging to obtain the skin-tendering and caring cosmetic.

The hydrolyzed ulva extract contains various acidic polysaccharides with good skin adaptability, has multiple effects on extracellular matrix, and promotes the synthesis of collagen and hyaluronic acid; inhibiting MMPs activity, protecting extracellular matrix, and performing comprehensive nursing to compact dermis, thereby enlarging and firming skin, and having effects of moisturizing, nourishing and caring skin.

The radix astragali extract is derived from the root of Astragalus membranaceus, and contains important active ingredient astragaloside, which can stimulate the proliferation of cortical cells, and has the effects of regulating skin, resisting aging, and preventing wrinkle.

The soluble collagen cross-linked polymer combines human-like collagen with hyaluronic acid to form a macromolecular compact reticular porous structure, and has the effects of moisturizing, tightening skin, tendering, nourishing, caring skin barrier and the like.

Isononyl isononanoate is used as a softening agent in cosmetics, belongs to synthetic ester, and products added with the isononyl isononanoate are easy to apply, have dry and extremely soft handfeel and are excellent softening agents. It is commonly used in skin care products, foundation cream, pressed powder, etc.

Diisopropyl dimerate linoleate is used as an emollient and a skin conditioner in cosmetics.

The shea butter contains vitamin A, vitamin E, vitamin B6, protein and other elements, can prevent skin moisture loss in cosmetics, can provide sufficient moisture for skin, and is very suitable for dry skin. In addition, the wound healing can be assisted, and the defense capacity of the skin can be improved; can supplement oil and fat lacking in epidermal cells of human body, and has the effect of delaying skin aging.

Squalane is extracted from liver or olive oil of deep sea shark, is a natural component in skin, has better antioxidant power and stimulation immunity, can be dissolved with moisture and grease in the skin fast to form a natural skin protection barrier, has excellent stability, can effectively protect the skin from being damaged by foreign substances, can adjust the water-oil balance of the skin, avoids the skin from being rough and dark, and recovers the original tender touch feeling of the skin.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that: through researching the growth promoting effect of four plant active extracts (hydrolyzed ulva extract, astragalus membranaceus root extract, coral algae extract and sea fennel extract) on collagen, a plant extract composition (hydrolyzed ulva extract and astragalus membranaceus root extract) with the optimal skin tendering effect is obtained through screening. On the basis, the soluble collagen cross-linked polymer and multiple skin tendering components are further reasonably combined, and the skin tendering and caring cosmetic composition is further obtained. The cosmetic prepared from the skin-tendering and caring cosmetic composition can be used for making skin plump and tight, eliminating fine lines, making aged skin compact, tender and smooth, and glossy, can remarkably improve skin quality in a short time, is mild and non-irritant, and has no side effect after long-term use.

Detailed Description

The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention are clearly and completely described below, and it is obvious that the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention. The materials, reagents and the like used are, unless otherwise specified, commercially available reagents and materials.

Source of raw materials

Hydrolyzed Ulva lactuca extract available from Baihabo Co Ltd, Guangzhou

Astragalus membranaceus root extract purchased from Tonghua-Yitai pharmaceutical group Co., Ltd

Coral algae extract from Shenzhen Rigilt Biotech Ltd

Criste seed extract available from Ranunculus cantoniensis Biotech limited

Example 1

The skin tendering and caring cosmetic comprises the following raw material components in parts by weight: 4 parts of hydrolyzed ulva extract, 4 parts of astragalus membranaceus root extract, 2 parts of soluble collagen cross-linked polymer, 1 part of isononyl isononanoate, 1 part of diisopropyl dimer linoleate, 1 part of shea butter, 1 part of squalane, 6 parts of cetostearyl alcohol, 4 parts of ceramide, 5 parts of xanthan gum, 0.5 part of pentanediol, 0.5 part of EDTA-2Na0.5 part of deionized water.

The preparation method of the skin-tendering and caring cosmetic comprises the following steps:

(1) weighing the raw material components in parts by weight for later use;

(2) adding xanthan gum into deionized water, and stirring to completely disperse the xanthan gum to obtain a material A;

(3) adding ceramide, pentanediol and EDTA-2Na into the material A, heating to 65 ℃, and uniformly stirring to obtain a material B;

(4) and after natural cooling and temperature reduction, adding the cetostearyl alcohol and the skin-tendering and caring cosmetic composition (the hydrolyzed ulva extract, the astragalus membranaceus root extract, the soluble collagen cross-linked polymer, isononyl isononanoate, diisopropyl dimodiolate, shea butter and squalane) into the material B, homogenizing at 30 ℃ and 3000rpm for 10 minutes to completely emulsify the mixture, uniformly mixing, and discharging to obtain the skin-tendering and caring cosmetic.

Example 2

The skin tendering and caring cosmetic comprises the following raw material components in parts by weight: 8 parts of hydrolyzed ulva extract, 8 parts of astragalus membranaceus root extract, 6 parts of soluble collagen cross-linked polymer, 3 parts of isononyl isononanoate, 3 parts of diisopropyl dimer linoleate, 3 parts of shea butter, 3 parts of squalane, 10 parts of cetearyl glucoside, 6 parts of polyethylene glycol, 8 parts of acrylic acid (ester)/copolymer, 2 parts of sodium benzoate, 1 part of EDTA-2Na and 50 parts of deionized water.

(1) weighing the raw material components in parts by weight for later use;

(2) adding acrylic acid (ester)/copolymer into deionized water, and stirring to completely disperse the acrylic acid (ester)/copolymer to obtain a material A;

(3) adding polyethylene glycol, sodium benzoate and EDTA-2Na into the material A, heating to 60 ℃, and uniformly stirring to obtain a material B;

(4) and after natural cooling and temperature reduction, adding cetearyl glucoside and a skin-tendering and caring cosmetic composition (a hydrolyzed ulva extract, an astragalus membranaceus root extract, a soluble collagen cross-linked polymer, isononyl isononanoate, diisopropyl dimolylinoleate, shea butter and squalane) into the material B, homogenizing at the temperature of 35 ℃ and the rpm of 3000 for 5 minutes to completely emulsify the mixture, uniformly mixing the mixture, and discharging the mixture to obtain the skin-tendering and caring cosmetic.

Example 3

The skin tendering and caring cosmetic comprises the following raw material components in parts by weight: 6 parts of hydrolyzed ulva extract, 6 parts of astragalus membranaceus root extract, 4 parts of soluble collagen cross-linked polymer, 2 parts of isononyl isononanoate, 2 parts of diisopropyl dimer linoleate, 2 parts of shea butter, 2 parts of squalane, 6 parts of PEG-100 stearate, 4 parts of glycerol, 6 parts of gum arabic, 1 part of phenoxyethanol, 1 part of EDTA-2Na and 40 parts of deionized water.

(1) weighing the raw material components in parts by weight for later use;

(2) adding Arabic gum into deionized water, and stirring to completely disperse the Arabic gum to obtain a material A;

(3) adding glycerol, phenoxyethanol and EDTA-2Na into the material A, heating to 62 ℃, and uniformly stirring to obtain a material B;

(4) naturally cooling, adding PEG-100 stearate and skin-tendering and caring cosmetic composition (hydrolyzed Ulva lactuca extract, Astragalus membranaceus root extract, soluble collagen cross-linked polymer, isononyl isononanoate, diisopropyl dimodilate, shea butter and squalane) into material B, homogenizing at 32 deg.C and 3000rpm for 8 min to completely emulsify, mixing, and discharging to obtain the skin-tendering and caring cosmetic.

Comparative example 1

The skin tendering and caring cosmetic comprises the following raw material components in parts by weight: 6 parts of hydrolyzed ulva extract, 6 parts of coral algae extract, 4 parts of soluble collagen cross-linked polymer, 2 parts of isononyl isononanoate, 2 parts of diisopropyl dimer linoleate, 2 parts of shea butter, 2 parts of squalane, 6 parts of PEG-100 stearate, 4 parts of glycerol, 6 parts of gum arabic, 1 part of phenoxyethanol, 1 part of EDTA-2Na and 40 parts of deionized water. Skin rejuvenation and care cosmetics were prepared according to the preparation method in example 3.

Comparative example 2

The skin tendering and caring cosmetic comprises the following raw material components in parts by weight: 6 parts of hydrolyzed ulva extract, 6 parts of hypecoum extract, 4 parts of soluble collagen cross-linked polymer, 2 parts of isononyl isononanoate, 2 parts of diisopropyl dimer linoleate, 2 parts of shea butter, 2 parts of squalane, 6 parts of PEG-100 stearate, 4 parts of glycerol, 6 parts of gum arabic, 1 part of phenoxyethanol, 1 part of EDTA-2Na and 40 parts of deionized water. Skin rejuvenation and care cosmetics were prepared according to the preparation method in example 3.

Comparative example 3

The skin tendering and caring cosmetic comprises the following raw material components in parts by weight: 6 parts of astragalus membranaceus root extract, 6 parts of coral algae extract, 4 parts of soluble collagen cross-linked polymer, 2 parts of isononyl isononanoate, 2 parts of diisopropyl dimer linoleate, 2 parts of shea butter, 2 parts of squalane, 6 parts of PEG-100 stearate, 4 parts of glycerol, 6 parts of gum arabic, 1 part of phenoxyethanol, 1 part of EDTA-2Na and 40 parts of deionized water. Skin rejuvenation and care cosmetics were prepared according to the preparation method in example 3.

Comparative example 4

The skin tendering and caring cosmetic comprises the following raw material components in parts by weight: 6 parts of astragalus membranaceus root extract, 6 parts of hypecoum vulgare extract, 4 parts of soluble collagen cross-linked polymer, 2 parts of isononyl isononanoate, 2 parts of diisopropyl dimer linoleate, 2 parts of shea butter, 2 parts of squalane, 6 parts of PEG-100 stearate, 4 parts of glycerol, 6 parts of gum arabic, 1 part of phenoxyethanol, 1 part of EDTA-2Na and 40 parts of deionized water. Skin rejuvenation and care cosmetics were prepared according to the preparation method in example 3.

Comparative example 5

The skin tendering and caring cosmetic comprises the following raw material components in parts by weight: 6 parts of coral algae extract, 6 parts of hypecoum vulgare extract, 4 parts of soluble collagen cross-linked polymer, 2 parts of isononyl isononanoate, 2 parts of diisopropyl dimer linoleate, 2 parts of shea butter, 2 parts of squalane, 6 parts of PEG-100 stearate, 4 parts of glycerol, 6 parts of gum arabic, 1 part of phenoxyethanol, EDTA-2Na1 parts and 40 parts of deionized water. Skin rejuvenation and care cosmetics were prepared according to the preparation method in example 3.

Effect of skin tendering and caring cosmetics on collagen content in dermis of aging mouse

The experimental process comprises the following steps: 110 SPF grade 2 month old female mice were collected and weighed between 18-22 g. The 110 mice were randomly assigned to 11 groups after labeling, 10 mice per group: i.e., blank, model, VE control, examples 1-3, comparative examples 1-5. Standard feed and tap water were given daily and fed under constant temperature (20 ℃ C.) and constant humidity (50%). Adaptive breeding of mice 2After week, a D-galactose-induced aging mouse model is prepared by referring to a modeling method in traditional Chinese medicine pharmacology experimental methodology. After the modeling is finished, the success of the model modeling of the aging model of the mouse is determined according to biochemical indexes, histomorphometric structures, quantitative analysis results and the like. Subsequently, at about 0.2g/cm²The commercially available VE cream and the cosmetic products of examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-5 were applied to the skin of the back of the mouse once a day, in the morning and evening, for 28 consecutive days; blank and model groups were not processed.

Sample collection and index calculation: after the experiment is finished, the mice are sacrificed, the skin of the back hairless area of each group of mice is cut, the weighed skin is put into cold normal saline for rinsing, the skin is taken out and wiped by filter paper, then 50mg of the skin of each group is precisely weighed in sequence and respectively placed into a 10ml beaker, then the skin is cut into pieces, the cold normal saline is added to 5ml, and a tissue homogenizer is used for homogenate. The prepared homogenate was assayed using a skin Hydroxyproline (HYP) ELISA assay kit. HYP is a specific component of collagen, accounting for about 13% of the total amino acids in collagen, and thus the collagen content can be calculated by measuring the HYP content, which is the HYP content/13%. The results of the experiment are shown in table 1.

Table 1. variation in skin content in each group of mice (n ═ 10)

As can be seen from the experimental results of table 1: compared with the blank group, the skin of the mice of the aging model group has obviously reduced content of HYP and collagen. Vitamin E is a recognized antioxidant, has the effect of delaying skin aging, and compared with an aging model group, the content of HYP and collagen in a VE control group is obviously increased. Furthermore, after the skin tendering and caring cosmetics in examples 1-3 are applied, the content of HYP and collagen in the skin of the mouse is obviously increased compared with that of a VE control group, which shows that the cosmetic product of the invention can obviously increase the content of HYP and collagen in the skin of the aged mouse caused by D-galactose, and further has the effects of tendering the skin and delaying the skin aging. In contrast, the combination of plant extracts in comparative examples 1 to 5 also had a certain collagen production promoting effect, but the enhancing effect was significantly lower than that of examples 1 to 3. In conclusion, the plant extract composition with the best effect (the hydrolyzed ulva extract and the astragalus membranaceus root extract) is obtained by screening through researching the growth promoting effect of the four plant active extracts (the hydrolyzed ulva extract, the astragalus membranaceus root extract, the coral algae extract and the aniseed extract) on collagen. On the basis, the soluble collagen cross-linked polymer and multiple skin tendering components are further reasonably combined, and the skin tendering and caring cosmetic composition is further obtained. The cosmetic prepared from the skin-tendering and caring cosmetic composition can be used for making skin plump and tight, eliminating fine lines, making aged skin compact, tender and smooth, and glossy, can remarkably improve skin quality in a short time, is mild and non-irritant, and has no side effect after long-term use.

The above description is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention, and it should be noted that, for those skilled in the art, several modifications or equivalents may be made to the technical solution without departing from the principle of the present invention, and these modifications or equivalents should also be regarded as the protection scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. The skin-tendering and caring cosmetic composition is characterized by comprising the following raw material components in parts by weight: 4-8 parts of hydrolyzed ulva extract, 4-8 parts of astragalus membranaceus root extract, 2-6 parts of soluble collagen cross-linked polymer, 1-3 parts of isononyl isononanoate, 1-3 parts of diisopropyl dimerate linoleate, 1-3 parts of shea butter and 1-3 parts of squalane.

2. The skin rejuvenation and maintenance cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1, which comprises the following raw material components in parts by weight: 5-7 parts of hydrolyzed ulva extract, 5-7 parts of astragalus membranaceus root extract, 3-5 parts of soluble collagen cross-linked polymer, 1.5-2.5 parts of isononyl isononanoate, 1.5-2.5 parts of diisopropyl dimerized linoleate, 1.5-2.5 parts of shea butter and 1.5-2.5 parts of squalane.

3. The skin rejuvenation and maintenance cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 2, which comprises the following raw material components in parts by weight: 6 parts of hydrolyzed ulva extract, 6 parts of astragalus membranaceus root extract, 4 parts of soluble collagen cross-linked polymer, 2 parts of isononyl isononanoate, 2 parts of diisopropyl dimerized linoleate, 2 parts of shea butter and 2 parts of squalane.

4. The skin tendering and caring cosmetic is characterized by comprising the following raw material components in parts by weight: 14-34 parts of skin-tendering and caring cosmetic composition as defined in any one of claims 1-3, 5-10 parts of emulsifier, 2-8 parts of humectant, 2-8 parts of thickener, 0-2 parts of preservative, 0.5-1 part of chelating agent and 30-50 parts of deionized water.

5. The skin rejuvenation and care cosmetic as claimed in claim 4, wherein said emulsifier is at least one selected from the group consisting of cetearyl alcohol, cetearyl glucoside, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-20 methylgluco-sesquistearate.

6. The skin rejuvenation and maintenance cosmetic as claimed in claim 4 wherein said humectant is at least one member selected from the group consisting of glycerin, polyethylene glycol and ceramide.

7. The skin rejuvenation and care cosmetic product as claimed in claim 4 wherein said thickener is at least one member selected from the group consisting of carbomers, acrylates/copolymers, xanthan gum and gum arabic.

8. The skin rejuvenation and care cosmetic as claimed in claim 4 wherein said preservative is at least one selected from the group consisting of pentanediol, sodium benzoate, phenoxyethanol.

9. The skin rejuvenation and care cosmetic product as claimed in claim 4 wherein said chelating agent is EDTA-2 Na.

10. The method for preparing a skin rejuvenation and care cosmetic as claimed in any one of claims 4 to 9, which comprises the steps of:

(1) weighing the raw material components in parts by weight for later use;