CN113550047A - 仿靛蓝牛仔面料及生产方法 - Google Patents
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- 235000000177 Indigofera tinctoria Nutrition 0.000 description 6
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种仿靛蓝牛仔面料及生产方法,面料由经纱和纬纱编织而成,所述经纱包括棉线和复合纱线,且棉线和复合纱线之间的比例为2:1;所述复合纱线包括两根股线,每根股线由精梳棉和阳离子改性棉混纺而成;所述纬纱由8支棉纱包70D氨纶丝而成。生产方法包括以下步骤:A、火口烧毛;B、轧酶堆置;将面料在60‑65℃的温度下三浸三轧,然后在40‑45℃温度下堆置12小时,得到B品;C、卷缸煮炼、漂白;D、一次烘干;E、印花;F、烘焙;G、溢流染色;H、二次烘干;I、后整理柔软处理;J、对I品进行预缩处理,得到成品。本发明具有不仅能够有效改善面料耐洗、耐磨和色牢度性能,还具有能够简化生产工序、节能减排和良好环保性能的特点。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及一种靛蓝牛仔面料的生产方法,特别是一种仿靛蓝牛仔面料及生产方法。
背景技术
牛仔面料,是一种较粗厚的色织经面斜纹棉布,经纱颜色深,一般为靛蓝色,纬纱颜色浅,一般为浅灰或煮练后的本白纱;牛仔面料整体呈靛蓝色。对于传统靛蓝牛仔面料,其常规的加工生产方法为:先以纯棉纱线作为经纱,经整经后用靛蓝染料染纱、上浆、织造成坯布、后整理等步骤;后整理主要包括退浆、拉幅烘干、预缩等工序。在此过程中,不仅工序较为复杂,而且需要较高的温度和清水进行处理,能耗较高;同时还会产生大量的污水,严重污染环境。同时,现在牛仔布染色主要是用靛蓝染料对纱线进行的,其往往只对纱线的表层进行染色,内部纤维难易染色,当牛仔服经过磨洗加工时,纱线表面极薄的一层染料被磨去后,露出较多的白色纱芯,使色泽很快变浅,从而使服装在短时间磨洗后,立即退色的不良后果;这样就会导致牛仔面料存在着不耐洗、不耐磨,色牢度差,极易掉色沾色的缺点。因此,现有的技术存在着耐洗、耐磨效果较差,色牢度较低以及生产工序复杂、能耗较高、环保性较差的问题。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于,提供一种仿靛蓝牛仔面料及生产方法。本发明具有不仅能够有效改善面料耐洗、耐磨和色牢度性能,还具有能够简化生产工序、节能减排和良好环保性能的特点。
本发明的技术方案:仿靛蓝牛仔面料,由经纱和纬纱编织而成,所述经纱包括棉线和复合纱线,且棉线和复合纱线之间的比例为2:1;所述复合纱线包括两根股线,每根股线由精梳棉和阳离子改性棉混纺而成;所述纬纱由8支棉纱包70D氨纶丝而成。
仿靛蓝牛仔面料的生产方法,包括以下步骤:
A、火口烧毛;将权利要求1中所述的仿靛蓝牛仔面料的正反面进行烧毛处理,得到A品;
B、轧酶堆置;将A品在60-65℃的温度下三浸三轧,然后在40-45℃温度下堆置12小时,得到B品;
C、卷缸煮炼、漂白,得到C品;
D、一次烘干;采用150℃的温度将C品烘干,得到D品;
E、印花,得到E品;
F、烘焙;采用170℃的温度对E进行烘焙处理,时间为2min,得到F品;
G、溢流染色,得到G品;
H、二次烘干;采用150℃的温度将G品烘干,得到H品;
I、后整理柔软处理,得到I品;
J、对I品进行预缩处理,得到成品。
前述的仿靛蓝牛仔面料的生产方法中,步骤B轧酶堆置时,采用混合液对A品进行浸渍处理;所述混合液包括2g/L的退浆酶和1g/L的非离子渗透剂。
前述的仿靛蓝牛仔面料的生产方法中,步骤C中,煮练时的煮练液中含有25-30g/L的100%NaOH、4g/L的阳离子精炼剂VE;
煮练处理时的温度为90-95℃,处理时间为30分钟,随后热水洗净;
步骤C中,漂白时采用的漂白液包括以下组分:4-5g/L的100%H2O2、10g/l的泡花碱、2g/L的阳离子精炼剂VE;
漂白处理时的温度为90-95℃,处理时间为30分钟,随后热水洗净。
前述的仿靛蓝牛仔面料的生产方法中,步骤E中采用印花液对D品进行印花处理,印花液包括以下组分:100g/L的防水剂AFH6、200g/L的粘合剂CF-1、0.06g/L的涂料黑FFB-01、100g/L的罩白浆ER。
前述的仿靛蓝牛仔面料的生产方法中,步骤G溢流染色处理的具体过程为:先用常温水润湿F品,然后加染料,并升温至40度,保温30分钟后,采用常温清水洗一道;然后在80℃的温度下皂洗,随后再用常温清水洗一道,最后开幅,得到G品;
染料为活性染料KBF蓝,用量为0.25%OWF。
前述的仿靛蓝牛仔面料的生产方法中,后整理柔软处理时,柔软剂为柔软剂CRS,用量为40g/L;温度为150℃。
与现有技术相比,本发明通过严格限定仿靛蓝牛仔面料中经纱和纬纱的结构和具体组成,并配合相对应的坯布染整步骤和具体工艺参数,通过两者之间的相互配合,可以有效提高面料成品的耐洗、耐磨性能和提升整体的色牢度,而且整体的坯布染整工序也得到了简化,在染色环节不用高温(水温40度,常规60度),不仅染色速度快,而且工艺简化;织物上的阳离子与染料直接反应结合,牢度好,且染料上染率高(同浓度下织物染色深度提高40-50%),并且无盐、无碱染色,所以染色排水是清水或接近清水,比较干净;整体来说染色时较传统工艺,节约能源50%、节水90%、节约染化料25%-35%,污染物排放减少90%,污水量减少40%-60%,污水COD、色度等大幅下降,污水处理更容易;节约用电30%以上,节约助剂成本90%以上,提高工作效率40-60%。综上所述,本发明具有不仅能够有效改善面料耐洗、耐磨和色牢度性能,还具有能够简化生产工序、节能减排和良好环保性能的特点。
具体实施方式
下面结合实施例对本发明作进一步的说明,但并不作为对本发明限制的依据。
实施例1。仿靛蓝牛仔面料,由经纱和纬纱编织而成,其特征在于:所述经纱包括棉线和复合纱线,且棉线和复合纱线之间的比例为2:1;所述复合纱线包括两根股线,每根股线由精梳棉和阳离子改性棉混纺而成;所述纬纱由8支棉纱包70D氨纶丝而成。
仿靛蓝牛仔面料的具体规格为:
{OE21+(JC50%/MMC50%)32/2}合股*8+70D 72*43弹力右斜纹(3/1)其中,OE21:普通棉气流纺21支;
(JC50%/MMC50%)32/2:(50%的精梳棉与50%的阳离子改性棉混纺成32支,再同样的两根32支纱线纺成双股线即32/2);
合股:将OE21与(JC50%/MMC50%)32/2两种纱线按2:1纺成股线,为经纱;
8+70D:8支普通棉纱包70D粗细的氨纶形成纬纱。
仿靛蓝牛仔面料的生产方法,包括以下步骤:
A、火口烧毛;将权利要求1中所述的仿靛蓝牛仔面料的正反面进行烧毛处理,得到A品;车速为80m/min;
B、轧酶堆置;将A品在60-65℃的温度下三浸三轧,然后在40-45℃温度下堆置12小时,得到B品;车速为50-55m/min。
C、卷缸煮炼、漂白,得到C品;
D、一次烘干;采用150℃的温度将C品烘干,得到D品;车速为40-45m/min;
E、印花,得到E品;车速为40-45m/min;
F、烘焙;采用170℃的温度对E进行烘焙处理,时间为2min,得到F品;
G、溢流染色,得到G品;
H、二次烘干;采用150℃的温度将G品烘干,得到H品;车速为40-45m/min;
I、后整理柔软处理,得到I品;车速为45-50m/min;
J、对I品进行预缩处理,得到成品;车速为40-45m/min。
步骤B轧酶堆置时,采用混合液对A品进行浸渍处理;所述混合液包括2g/L的退浆酶(可以选用退浆酶HS-680)和1g/L的非离子渗透剂(可以选用非离子渗透剂SP-2)。
步骤C中,煮练时的煮练液中含有25-30g/L的100%NaOH、4g/L的阳离子精炼剂VE;
煮练处理时的温度为90-95℃,处理时间为30分钟,随后热水洗净;
步骤C中,漂白时采用的漂白液包括以下组分:4-5g/L的100%H2O2、10g/l的泡花碱、2g/L的阳离子精炼剂VE;
漂白处理时的温度为90-95℃,处理时间为30分钟,随后热水洗净。
步骤E中采用印花液对D品进行印花处理,印花液包括以下组分:100g/L的防水剂AFH6、200g/L的粘合剂CF-1、0.06g/L的涂料黑FFB-01、100g/L的罩白浆(钛白粉)ER。
因为纱线织造是比较有规律的,因此泛白效果也是有规律的,为了更自然,更像牛仔效果,在面料上印花(主要是防水剂和罩白浆发挥作用,作用是拒水,让染料不上色),花型是无规则的小点,这些小点位置不易上色,因此泛白效果变得没有规律,更接近仿牛仔效果。
步骤G溢流染色处理的具体过程为:先用常温水润湿F品,然后加染料,并升温至40度,保温30分钟后,采用常温清水洗一道;然后在80℃的温度下皂洗,随后再用常温清水洗一道,最后开幅,得到G品;
染料为活性染料KBF蓝,用量为0.25%OWF。
染色时,染料只跟阳离子改性棉花反应染色,因为低温、无碱、无盐条件下普通棉是不上色的,以此产生仿牛仔的泛白效果。
后整理柔软处理时,柔软剂为柔软剂CRS,用量为40g/L;温度为150℃。
实施例2。仿靛蓝牛仔面料,由经纱和纬纱编织而成,其特征在于:所述经纱包括棉线和复合纱线,且棉线和复合纱线之间的比例为2:1;所述复合纱线包括两根股线,每根股线由精梳棉和阳离子改性棉混纺而成;所述纬纱由8支棉纱包70D氨纶丝而成。
仿靛蓝牛仔面料的具体规格为:
{OE21+(JC50%/MMC50%)32/2}合股*8+70D 72*43弹力右斜纹(3/1)其中,OE21:普通棉气流纺21支;
(JC50%/MMC50%)32/2:(50%的精梳棉与50%的阳离子改性棉混纺成32支,再同样的两根32支纱线纺成双股线即32/2);
合股:将OE21与(JC50%/MMC50%)32/2两种纱线按2:1纺成股线,为经纱;
8+70D:8支普通棉纱包70D粗细的氨纶形成纬纱。
仿靛蓝牛仔面料的生产方法,包括以下步骤:
A、火口烧毛;将权利要求1中所述的仿靛蓝牛仔面料的正反面进行烧毛处理,得到A品;车速为80m/min;
B、轧酶堆置;将A品在63℃的温度下三浸三轧,然后在43℃温度下堆置12小时,得到B品;车速为55m/min。
C、卷缸煮炼、漂白,得到C品;
D、一次烘干;采用150℃的温度将C品烘干,得到D品;车速为45m/min;
E、印花,得到E品;车速为45m/min;
F、烘焙;采用170℃的温度对E进行烘焙处理,时间为2min,得到F品;
G、溢流染色,得到G品;
H、二次烘干;采用150℃的温度将G品烘干,得到H品;车速为45m/min;
I、后整理柔软处理,得到I品;车速为50m/min;
J、对I品进行预缩处理,得到成品;车速为43m/min。
步骤B轧酶堆置时,采用混合液对A品进行浸渍处理;所述混合液包括2g/L的退浆酶(可以选用退浆酶HS-680)和1g/L的非离子渗透剂(可以选用非离子渗透剂SP-2)。
步骤C中,煮练时的煮练液中含有28g/L的100%NaOH、4g/L的阳离子精炼剂VE;
煮练处理时的温度为92℃,处理时间为30分钟,随后热水洗净;
步骤C中,漂白时采用的漂白液包括以下组分:4g/L的100%H2O2、10g/l的泡花碱、2g/L的阳离子精炼剂VE;
漂白处理时的温度为95℃,处理时间为30分钟,随后热水洗净。
步骤E中采用印花液对D品进行印花处理,印花液包括以下组分:100g/L的防水剂AFH6、200g/L的粘合剂CF-1、0.06g/L的涂料黑FFB-01、100g/L的罩白浆(钛白粉)ER。
因为纱线织造是比较有规律的,因此泛白效果也是有规律的,为了更自然,更像牛仔效果,在面料上印花(主要是防水剂和罩白浆发挥作用,作用是拒水,让染料不上色),花型是无规则的小点,这些小点位置不易上色,因此泛白效果变得没有规律,更接近仿牛仔效果。
步骤G溢流染色处理的具体过程为:先用常温水润湿F品,然后加染料,并升温至40度,保温30分钟后,采用常温清水洗一道;然后在80℃的温度下皂洗,随后再用常温清水洗一道,最后开幅,得到G品;
染料为活性染料KBF蓝,用量为0.25%OWF。
染色时,染料只跟阳离子改性棉花反应染色,因为低温、无碱、无盐条件下普通棉是不上色的,以此产生仿牛仔的泛白效果。
后整理柔软处理时,柔软剂为柔软剂CRS,用量为40g/L;温度为150℃。
将传统靛蓝牛仔面料与本实施例2制得的仿靛蓝牛仔面料进行测试,测试结果如下表所示。
从表中可知,本申请的生产工艺制得的仿靛蓝牛仔面料的色牢度非常好,染料与阳离子结合的牢度远高于普通活性染料与棉纤维的结合度,比靛蓝染料与棉纤维的结合牢度更是好上许多。
Claims (7)
1.仿靛蓝牛仔面料,由经纱和纬纱编织而成,其特征在于:所述经纱包括棉线和复合纱线,且棉线和复合纱线之间的比例为2:1;所述复合纱线包括两根股线,每根股线由精梳棉和阳离子改性棉混纺而成;所述纬纱由8支棉纱包70D氨纶丝而成。
2.仿靛蓝牛仔面料的生产方法,其特征在于,包括以下步骤:
A、火口烧毛;将权利要求1中所述的仿靛蓝牛仔面料的正反面进行烧毛处理,得到A品;
B、轧酶堆置;将A品在60-65℃的温度下三浸三轧,然后在40-45℃温度下堆置12小时,得到B品;
C、卷缸煮炼、漂白,得到C品;
D、一次烘干;采用150℃的温度将C品烘干,得到D品;
E、印花,得到E品;
F、烘焙;采用170℃的温度对E进行烘焙处理,时间为2min,得到F品;
G、溢流染色,得到G品;
H、二次烘干;采用150℃的温度将G品烘干,得到H品;
I、后整理柔软处理,得到I品;
J、对I品进行预缩处理,得到成品。
3.根据权利要求2所述的仿靛蓝牛仔面料的生产方法,其特征在于:步骤B轧酶堆置时,采用混合液对A品进行浸渍处理;所述混合液包括2g/L的退浆酶和1g/L的非离子渗透剂。
4.根据权利要求2所述的仿靛蓝牛仔面料的生产方法,其特征在于:步骤C中,煮练时的煮练液中含有25-30g/L的100%NaOH、4g/L的阳离子精炼剂VE;
煮练处理时的温度为90-95℃,处理时间为30分钟,随后热水洗净;
步骤C中,漂白时采用的漂白液包括以下组分:4-5g/L的100%H2O2、10g/l的泡花碱、2g/L的阳离子精炼剂VE;
漂白处理时的温度为90-95℃,处理时间为30分钟,随后热水洗净。
5.根据权利要求2所述的仿靛蓝牛仔面料的生产方法,其特征在于,步骤E中采用印花液对D品进行印花处理,印花液包括以下组分:100g/L的防水剂AFH6、200g/L的粘合剂CF-1、0.06g/L的涂料黑FFB-01、100g/L的罩白浆ER。
6.根据权利要求2所述的仿靛蓝牛仔面料的生产方法,其特征在于,步骤G溢流染色处理的具体过程为:先用常温水润湿F品,然后加染料,并升温至40度,保温30分钟后,采用常温清水洗一道;然后在80℃的温度下皂洗,随后再用常温清水洗一道,最后开幅,得到G品;
染料为活性染料KBF蓝,用量为0.25%OWF。
7.根据权利要求2所述的仿靛蓝牛仔面料的生产方法,其特征在于,后整理柔软处理时,柔软剂为柔软剂CRS,用量为40g/L;温度为150℃。
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