CN113230170A - Double-continuous-phase cleansing oil with effects of cleaning and nourishing skin and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Double-continuous-phase cleansing oil with effects of cleaning and nourishing skin and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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CN113230170A
CN113230170A CN202110556384.5A CN202110556384A CN113230170A CN 113230170 A CN113230170 A CN 113230170A CN 202110556384 A CN202110556384 A CN 202110556384A CN 113230170 A CN113230170 A CN 113230170A
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CN113230170B (en
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赵冰怡
王晓芝
刘海勇
丛琳
李雪竹
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Shanghai New Cogi Cosmetic Co ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
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    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
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    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
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    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
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    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
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    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
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    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
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    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
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    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
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    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
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Abstract

The invention discloses a bicontinuous phase cleansing oil with the effects of cleaning and nourishing skin, which belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and comprises the following raw materials in percentage by weight: and (3) an emollient: 65-80 percent; lipophilic and hydrophilic components: 1 to 4 percent; antioxidant: 0.001-0.1%; surfactant (b): 17-22%; deionized water: 0.5-8.5%; polyol: 0.01 to 0.5 percent; preservative: 0.01-1.00%; essence: 0.01 to 0.4 percent; wherein the lipophilic and hydrophilic components are bis-diethoxydiol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylic acid ester. According to the invention, the stable existence of the three phases of the water phase, the oil phase and the surfactant in the same system is realized, namely, both the oil phase and the water phase are continuous phases and are used as coexisting makeup remover systems, and both water-soluble components and oil-soluble components can be dissolved, so that the makeup removing efficiency is higher compared with that of the traditional makeup removing water or makeup removing oil; the added bis-diethoxydiol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylic acid ester has hydrophilic and oleophilic properties, and the makeup removing capability is further improved.

Description

Double-continuous-phase cleansing oil with effects of cleaning and nourishing skin and preparation method thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a bicontinuous phase cleansing oil with effects of cleaning and nourishing skin and a preparation method thereof.
Background
With the rise of consumer groups in the Internet age, the color makeup market is continuously advanced by the young generation focusing on the individual bright style, the pollution-resistant concept is deeply concentrated, the deep cleaning requirement is strong, the potential of makeup removing products is rapidly excavated, and female consumers tend to use the makeup removing products as the first step of night skin care.
Conventional makeup removing products can be classified into makeup removing oil, makeup removing cream, makeup removing lotion and makeup removing lotion according to dosage forms, and layered makeup removing lotion or layered makeup removing lotion appears in recent years. The makeup removing adopts a similar compatibility principle, generally, the higher the content of the oily components is, the strong makeup removing capability is realized, namely, the makeup removing oil > the makeup removing cream > the makeup removing milk ≈ the layered makeup removing milk > the layered makeup removing water > the makeup removing water. Common light makeup is cleaned by using makeup removing water and makeup removing cream through a cosmetic cotton, but mechanical friction exists in the process of wiping the cosmetic cotton, the skin cuticle is damaged after long-term use, the cosmetic cotton is not suitable for people with sensitive muscles, dirt and grease in pores cannot be thoroughly cleaned after wiping, and a series of secondary problems of large pores, blackheads, acnes and the like are caused due to incomplete makeup removal after long-term use. Modern color cosmetics generally contain both water and oil components, contain a large amount of grease, powder, solid wax, a film forming agent and the like, have strong waterproof and sweat-proof functions and strong skin-sticking performance, and common cleaning products (soap base and amino acid system face cleaning products) are difficult to clean. The makeup removing oil and the makeup removing cream are dissolved in oil, are fused in the finger massage process and are emulsified with water to be taken away during washing, so that the purpose of makeup removal is achieved. However, cleansing oils or creams also have certain disadvantages: firstly, greasy feeling caused by high oil content and poor use feeling; secondly, the hands are kept dry in the using process, the makeup removing capability is reduced due to residual moisture of the palms, and then the makeup is not completely removed, so that skin problems such as pore blockage, blackheads, closed mouths, acne and pox are caused; thirdly, in the washing process, a large amount of water is needed to be repeatedly washed and kneaded to bring emulsified components away from the skin, a layer of oil film is remained on the surface of the skin, and a face cleaning product is needed to be used for secondary cleaning; and fourthly, the makeup removing oil or the makeup removing cream is superposed with the cleansing product, so that the skin is continuously degreased by a large amount of surfactant raw materials, and the skin has obvious dry and tight feeling after being washed.
The performance requirements of consumers on makeup removing products are continuously improved, the basic requirements of cleanness (especially blackhead removal), washability, convenience and the like are required to be met, the use feeling is inclined to be fresh and cool, and the aim of skin care and repair is fulfilled in the process of cleaning. The prior product technology has the makeup remover oil compounded by grease, surfactant and water, which can reduce greasy feeling to a certain extent, but the system is not sufficiently fresh due to high surfactant content; the degreasing force is large; the mildness is insufficient; the cleaning power for stubborn blackheads in pores is insufficient. In the prior art, natural oil and fat, plant active extract, humectant and the like are added to achieve the effects of skin care and skin care, but the addition amount is generally small in view of the color and luster and the odor stability of the system. Therefore, the development of the double-continuous-phase cleansing oil with fresh, comfortable, mild, dry and wet skin feel, which is used for effectively removing color makeup, cleaning pores (removing blackheads) and maintaining skin is very necessary.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide the double-continuous-phase makeup remover oil which can thoroughly remove makeup, clean skin and maintain skin.
In order to solve the technical problems, the invention aims to realize the following technical scheme: a bicontinuous phase cleansing oil with effects of cleaning and nourishing skin comprises the following raw materials by weight percent:
and (3) an emollient: 65-80 percent;
lipophilic and hydrophilic components: 1 to 4 percent;
antioxidant: 0.001-0.1%;
surfactant (b): 17-22%;
deionized water: 0.5-8.5%;
polyol: 0.01 to 0.5 percent;
preservative: 0.01-1.00%;
essence: 0.01 to 0.4 percent;
wherein the lipophilic and hydrophilic components are bis-diethoxydiol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylic acid ester.
Further, the emollient is oil-soluble emollient; the oil-soluble emollient is at least one of mineral oil, diisopropyl sebacate, rice bran oil, Jade screen oil, and cetyl ethyl hexanoate.
The rice bran oil selected by the invention is used as vegetable oil with rich nutrition, is easy to form a durable water-resistant protective film on the surface of skin, has the functions of softness, moisture preservation, anti-inflammation, oxidation resistance and conditioning, and has oxidation stability superior to that of most natural vegetable oil. It is rich in unsaturated fatty acid octacosanol, gamma-oryzanol, phytosterol, vitamin E, squalane and other functional substances. Octacosanol can promote blood circulation, improve basal metabolism, revive cell, enhance skin activity, and eliminate wrinkle. The oryzanol can absorb ultraviolet rays, has effects of resisting oxidation, scavenging free radicals, inhibiting melanin generation, and reducing tyrosinase conversion. The phytosterol can be used as skin and hair conditioner, and has antiinflammatory and wound healing effects. Vitamin E can scavenge free radicals, improve dry skin, reduce skin wrinkles, and prevent senile plaque formation. Squalene has good moisture retention property, is an important component of sebum, and is a moisture retention substance of horny layer. In the invention, the rice bran oil improves the skin nourishing effect of the cleansing oil by virtue of excellent stability, rich nutrient components and the function of promoting skin blood circulation.
Furthermore, the selected Baihua jade screen oil contains caprylic acid/capric acid triglyceride, sunflower seed oil, safflower extract, gardenia extract, chrysanthemum extract, plum blossom extract and pentaerythritol tetraester; according to the concept of 'holism and dialectical' of the traditional Chinese medicine and the formula principle of 'monarch, minister, assistant and guide', the skin-care cream is prepared by matching safflower, gardenia, Hangzhou white chrysanthemum and flos Pruni mume, and has the effects of enhancing the vitality of an epidermal layer, promoting the repair of rough skin injury, nourishing skin and accelerating the repair of skin barriers. Wherein, the safflower removes blood stasis without hurting yin, promotes qi movement, and improves the circulation of qi and blood due to local spleen deficiency; the gardenia can clear heat and cool blood without stasis, and promote the repair of skin injury; the chrysanthemum morifolium ramat has the functions of promoting the production of body fluid and nourishing yin, is matched with monarch and ministerial medicines to treat complications, and can dispel heat without hurting yang; the flos Pruni mume has effects of nourishing skin, moistening without nourishing greasy, and not obstructing local qi and blood circulation.
Further, the surfactant comprises PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate.
Further, the surfactant also comprises at least one of PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate and PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate.
Further, the antioxidant is tocopherol acetate.
Further, the polyalcohol is at least one of 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol and 1, 3-butanediol.
Further, the preservative is at least one of phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin.
Further, the essence is at least one of flower fragrance and fruit fragrance.
In addition, the invention also provides a preparation method of the bicontinuous phase cleansing oil with the effects of cleaning and nourishing the skin, which comprises the following steps:
1) weighing the components according to the proportion, heating the emollient, the oleophylic and hydrophilic component, the antioxidant and the surfactant to 50-60 ℃, and fully stirring and uniformly mixing to obtain a mixed phase;
(2) cooling the mixed phase to 40-45 ℃, then preserving heat, adding deionized water at the speed of 60-180mL/min under the stirring state, and continuing stirring for 15-20min after the addition is finished to obtain a mixture;
(3) sequentially adding polyalcohol, antiseptic and essence into the mixture under heat preservation condition while stirring, stirring thoroughly for 10-15min until a uniform transparent liquid without any suspended floccule is formed, and cooling to 37 deg.C to obtain the bicontinuous phase cleansing oil with skin caring effect.
The invention has the beneficial effects that:
1. the invention realizes the stable existence of three phases of water phase, oil phase and surfactant in the same system by the technical means of double continuous phases, and the double continuous phases, namely the oil phase and the water phase, are both continuous phases and are used as coexistent makeup remover systems (as shown in figure 1). Therefore, the water-soluble component and the oil-soluble component can be dissolved, and the makeup removing efficiency is higher compared with that of the traditional makeup removing water or makeup removing oil; the added bis-diethoxydiol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylic acid ester has hydrophilic and oleophilic properties, and the makeup removing capability is further improved.
2. When the traditional oil type cleansing oil is used for cleansing, a large amount of water is added, a large drop of millimeter-level large oil drops can be formed, the large oil drops can be attached to the surface of the skin again when contacting the skin, a sticky touch is generated, and the skin is excessively degreased after secondary cleansing and is extremely easy to dry; the invention realizes the stable existence of three phases of water phase, oil phase and surfactant in the same system by a technical means of double continuous phases, and an extremely tiny micelle structure group with the grain diameter about one percent of the former is formed when a large amount of water is used for cleaning (as shown in figure 2). Because the oil drops are small and stable, the reattachment of oil phase components and the skin surface can be reduced, so that the oil dissolved in the color cosmetics and dirt can be thoroughly removed, the skin can be dry and comfortable after-use feeling, secondary cleaning is not needed, and the possibility of excessive skin degreasing in the secondary cleaning process is avoided; therefore, after the bicontinuous cleansing oil disclosed by the invention is used, the skin cannot be excessively degreased, the skin is dry and comfortable, the water content of the horny layer of the skin is obviously higher than that of the common cleansing oil, and the possibility of irritation and sensitivity is greatly reduced.
3. The traditional oil type cleansing oil must be used under a dry and anhydrous condition, and the cleansing capability is rapidly reduced due to the doping of a little moisture, so that the skin cannot be cleaned; the invention realizes the stable existence of the water phase, the oil phase and the surfactant in the same system by the technical means of the double continuous phases, and because the double continuous phase system can increase the water content to a certain extent, the invention has ideal makeup removing effect when being used for wetting hands or wetting makeup, excellent makeup removing and emulsifying effect and better cleaning and beautifying effect. Therefore, the bicontinuous phase cleansing oil disclosed by the invention is more convenient to use and can keep an excellent cleansing effect in a dry and wet state.
4. In order to achieve a good makeup removing effect, the content of the surfactant is about 25-45%, and the skin is strongly stimulated and is not mild enough in the makeup removing process; the synthetic oil such as isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate and ethyl palmitate which are commonly used in common makeup remover oil has acne-causing property and moist skin feel, and the trial investigation of consumers finds that the makeup remover oil containing the synthetic oil can cause acne smothering; the invention realizes the stable existence of three phases of the water phase, the oil phase and the surfactant in the same system by the technical means of double continuous phases, on one hand, the preferable PEG surfactant from plant sources has good freshness, proper price, hydrolytic stability, odor stability and color stability although the components are slightly weaker than those of polyglycerol surfactants, on the other hand, the proportion of the surfactant in the formula can be greatly reduced, and the excellent makeup removing effect can be kept while the mildness is improved. Therefore, the invention has good balance among comfortable use, product efficacy and formula cost.
5. The invention selects the bis-diethoxy diglycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate of lipophilic and hydrophilic components, the compound can not destroy the inherent oil components on the skin surface, after being distributed to the stratum corneum, the compound has the function of promoting the penetration of active components such as vitamin precursors, amino acids and the like, and can improve the absorption of the skin to the beneficial components, but does not basically show the penetration effect on preservative components such as methylparaben, phenoxyethanol and the like, and the invention can promote the absorption of the skin to the nutritional active components (rice bran oil and lily jade screen oil) in the system by adding a unique formula compatibility technology, thereby having the effects of nourishing and holding the skin; in addition, due to the amphiphilic property of the bis-diethoxydiol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate, the bicontinuous phase cleansing oil can effectively promote the blackheads to be melted out and washed away in the finger massage cleaning process, and can effectively clean the blackheads accumulated in pores after being repeatedly used. Therefore, the bicontinuous phase cleansing oil disclosed by the invention has the skin nourishing effect while cleaning the skin.
6. The bicontinuous makeup removing oil disclosed by the invention selects the oil-soluble emollient, and the oil-soluble emollient can promote the blood circulation of facial skin, repair skin barriers, keep moisture and moisten and maintain the skin in the finger and abdomen massage whole face process.
7. In the preparation method provided by the invention, deionized water is added into the oil phase at a low speed (60-180mL/min) in order to slowly and stably form reverse micelles, so that the stability of the bicontinuous phase cleansing oil is improved.
Drawings
In order to more clearly illustrate the technical solutions of the embodiments of the present invention, the drawings needed to be used in the description of the embodiments are briefly introduced below, and it is obvious that the drawings in the following description are some embodiments of the present invention, and it is obvious for those skilled in the art to obtain other drawings based on these drawings without creative efforts.
FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of a bicontinuous phase cleansing oil system according to the present invention;
FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram of the principle of the present invention of a bicontinuous phase cleansing oil and the prior oil phase cleansing oil during cleansing;
FIG. 3 is a graph showing the results of the investigation conducted in experiment 6 using example 1 and comparative example 24;
FIG. 4 is a graph showing the results of the investigation conducted in experiment 6 using example 2 and comparative example 25;
FIG. 5 is a graph showing the results of the investigation in experiment 6 using example 3 and comparative example 26;
FIG. 6 is a graph showing the results of the investigation in experiment 6 using example 4 and comparative example 27;
FIG. 7 is a graph showing the results of the investigation conducted in experiment 6 using example 5 and comparative example 28;
FIG. 8 is a schematic diagram showing the falling-off of the artificial blackhead in experiment 7 after using example 2.
Detailed Description
The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below with reference to the drawings in the embodiments of the present invention, and it is obvious that the described embodiments are some, not all, embodiments of the present invention. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.
It will be understood that the terms "comprises" and/or "comprising," when used in this specification and the appended claims, specify the presence of stated features, integers, steps, operations, elements, and/or components, but do not preclude the presence or addition of one or more other features, integers, steps, operations, elements, components, and/or groups thereof.
It is also to be understood that the terminology used in the description of the invention herein is for the purpose of describing particular embodiments only and is not intended to be limiting of the invention. As used in the specification of the present invention and the appended claims, the singular forms "a," "an," and "the" are intended to include the plural forms as well, unless the context clearly indicates otherwise.
It should be further understood that the term "and/or" as used in this specification and the appended claims refers to and includes any and all possible combinations of one or more of the associated listed items.
The reagents or instruments used in the present invention are not specified by manufacturers, and are all conventional products commercially available.
In the examples and comparative examples of the present invention, the essence can be added by those skilled in the art according to the kind described in the present invention, according to the design requirement of the product. The essence adopted by the invention is flower fragrance and/or fruit fragrance.
Examples 1 to 10
The bicontinuous phase cleansing oils of examples 1-10 consisted of group A, group B and group C. The raw materials and the dosage ratio are calculated according to the weight percentage, and are shown in the table 1.
Table 1: the ratios of the amounts of the raw materials in examples 1 to 10 (%)
Figure BDA0003077375180000061
Figure BDA0003077375180000071
Figure BDA0003077375180000081
The method of preparing the bicontinuous phase cleansing oils of examples 1-10, comprising the steps of:
(1) weighing the components according to the proportion, heating the emollient, the oleophylic and hydrophilic component, the antioxidant and the surfactant to 50-60 ℃, and fully stirring and uniformly mixing to obtain a mixed phase;
(2) cooling the mixed phase to 40-45 ℃, then preserving heat, adding deionized water at the speed of 60-180mL/min under the stirring state, and continuing stirring for 15-20min after the addition is finished to obtain a mixture;
(3) sequentially adding polyalcohol, antiseptic and essence into the mixture under heat preservation condition while stirring, stirring thoroughly for 10-15min until uniform transparent liquid without any suspended floccule is formed, cooling to 37 deg.C to obtain bicontinuous phase cleansing oil with skin caring effect, and discharging after inspection.
The dosage ratios of the raw materials of comparative examples 1 to 8, comparative examples 9 to 16, comparative examples 17 to 23 and comparative examples 24 to 30
Comparative examples 1 to 8, comparative examples 9 to 16, comparative examples 17 to 23, and comparative examples 24 to 30 were each composed of group A, group B, and group C. Specifically, as shown in tables 2, 3, 4 and 5, in weight percent:
table 2: comparative examples 1 to 8 raw material ratios (%)
Figure BDA0003077375180000091
Figure BDA0003077375180000101
Table 3: comparative examples 9 to 16 Each raw material ratio (%)
Figure BDA0003077375180000102
Figure BDA0003077375180000111
Table 4: comparative examples 17 to 23 the proportions of the respective raw materials (%)
Figure BDA0003077375180000112
Figure BDA0003077375180000121
Table 5: comparative examples 24 to 30 the proportions of the respective raw materials (%)
Figure BDA0003077375180000122
Figure BDA0003077375180000131
Among them, the bicontinuous phase cleansing oils of comparative examples 1 to 30 were prepared in the same manner as the bicontinuous phase cleansing oils of examples 1 to 10.
Effect verification experiment:
the bicontinuous phase makeup removers of examples 1-10 and comparative examples 1-30 were subjected to an appearance transparency stability test, an odor stability test, a patch test, a consumer trial investigation, a moisturizing test, a consumer barrier repair test, and a blackhead removal test, respectively.
Experiment 1: stability test for appearance transparency
The experimental method comprises the following steps: the cleansing oils of examples 1 to 10 and the cleansing oils of comparative examples 1 to 8 were stored at 40 ℃, 25 ℃, 5 ℃ and-15 ℃ for 1 month, respectively, and then returned to room temperature, and then observed for appearance transparency, and the test results are shown in Table 6.
Table 6: appearance transparency stability test of examples 1-10 and comparative examples 1-8
Figure BDA0003077375180000141
From the experimental results of table 6, it can be seen that: the surfactant content of comparative examples 1-8, which was too high or too low and the deionized water content, which was too high or too low, resulted in unstable systems and failure to form clear, stable, uniform bicontinuous phase cleansing oils. The examples 1-10 can form transparent, stable and uniform bicontinuous cleansing oil through reasonable raw material proportion selection, and have efficient and stable performance under the conditions of 40 ℃, 25 ℃, 5 ℃, 15 ℃ and the like.
Experiment 2: odor stability test
The experimental method comprises the following steps: the cleansing oils of example 9 and comparative examples 9 to 16 were stored at 40 ℃, 25 ℃, 5 ℃ and-15 ℃ for 3 months, respectively, and after returning to room temperature, the odor stability was observed, and the test results are shown in Table 7.
Table 7: odor stability test results of example 9 and comparative examples 10 to 17
Figure BDA0003077375180000142
Figure BDA0003077375180000151
Example 9 and comparative examples 9-13 the results of the experiments demonstrate that: the bicontinuous phase cleansing oil prepared by adopting the rice bran oil is obviously superior to natural oil such as grape seed oil, sunflower seed oil, corn germ oil, sweet almond oil, wheat germ oil and the like in the aspect of smell stability, because the rice bran oil is rich in vitamin E and has extremely good capability of removing free radicals, the possibility of rancidity of the oil is greatly reduced. Meanwhile, the experimental results of the example 9 and the comparative examples 14 to 16 are further illustrated: the PEG polyglycerol surfactant is superior to the polyglycerol surfactant in odor stability.
Experiment 3: patch test
The experimental method comprises the following steps: the total number of the subjects is 30 women, the age is 25-35 years, and the subjects meet the voluntary selection criteria. The skin closed patch test is carried out, 0.020-0.025 test object is dripped into a patch tester chamber, a control hole is used as a blank control (no any substance is put in the control hole), the patch tester of the test object is pasted on the forearm of a test subject by using a special low-sensitivity adhesive tape, and the test object is evenly pasted on the skin by lightly pressing the palm and kept for 24 hours. Observing skin reactions 30min, 24h and 48h after the test substance spot tester is removed, and recording the observation results according to the skin reaction grading standard in cosmetic hygiene standard (2007 edition). The cleansing oils obtained in examples 1 to 10 and comparative examples 17 to 22 were each tested. The patch test results are shown in table 8:
table 8: test results of Patch test for examples 1 to 10 and comparative examples 17 to 22
Sample (I) Negative reaction Suspicious reactions Weak positive reaction Strong positive reaction Very strong positive reaction
Examples 1 to 10 30 0 0 0 0
Comparative examples 17 to 22 30 0 0 0 0
The above experimental results show that: the cleansing oil prepared in the examples 1 to 10 is prepared by reasonable system matching, and has low surfactant content and high safety. The cleansing oils prepared in comparative examples 17 to 22 were also highly safe because they were pure oil PEG surfactant systems.
Experiment 4: human body trial comprehensive evaluation experiment
The experimental method comprises the following steps:
(1) the total number of the subjects is 30 women, the age is 22-35 years, and the subjects meet the voluntary selection criteria.
(2) The tested part: the inner sides of the left and right front arms;
(3) and (3) testing environment: a constant temperature and humidity chamber with the temperature of 21.0 +/-1.0 ℃ and the humidity of 50% +/-5%;
(4) the test method comprises the following steps: firstly, cleaning a test part with clear water, and then statically sitting for 30 minutes in a constant-temperature and constant-humidity environment to enable the skin to reach a stable state; blank values were tested for 3cm x 3cm areas of the inner side of different forearms, and then lipstick, eyeliner, liquid foundation were applied to the areas respectively and rested for 30 minutes.
Dry makeup removal: applying 0.2mL of cleansing oil to a specified test area, massaging for 30 seconds in a circling mode, and adding 0.2mL of clear water for emulsifying and massaging for 30 seconds; the test pieces were rinsed with clean water and gently wiped dry with a cotton pad during which time the test pieces were scored.
Wet makeup removal: dripping 0.1mL of deionized water on the color cosmetics in the designated area, dripping 0.2m of makeup removing oil in the designated test area, massaging for 30 seconds in a circling mode, and adding 0.2mL of clear water for emulsifying and massaging for 30 seconds; the test pieces were rinsed with clean water and gently wiped dry with a cotton pad during which time the test pieces were scored.
(5) Testing indexes are as follows:
refreshing degree: grading according to 1-10 points, wherein the oil feeling is 1 point when massaging, and the skin feeling is 10 points when massaging;
emulsifying capacity: scoring according to 1-10 minutes, adding clear water, and then slowly emulsifying to white, wherein the emulsification speed is slow, the emulsification cannot be completely emulsified to 1 minute, and the emulsification can be quickly emulsified to 10 minutes;
dry makeup removal capacity: scoring according to 1-10 points, wherein the residue is 1 point, and the total removal is 10 points;
wet makeup removal capacity: scoring according to 1-10 points, wherein the residue is 1 point, and the total removal is 10 points;
residual oily feeling: scoring according to 1-10 points, wherein the oil feeling residue is 1 point, and the refreshing residue-free residue is 10 points;
ease of rinsing: on a scale of 1-10 points, the hard to rinse was 1 point and the very easy to rinse was 10 points.
The results are shown in Table 9.
Table 9: examples 6 to 10 and comparative examples 18 to 22 comprehensive evaluation test on human body test
Figure BDA0003077375180000161
Figure BDA0003077375180000171
From the experimental data of examples 6 to 10 and comparative examples 18 to 22, the bicontinuous makeup remover prepared by the present application is superior to conventional oil makeup removers in terms of freshness, emulsifying ability, makeup removing ability, residual oil feel (dry and wet), makeup removing feel, and ease of rinsing.
Experiment 5: moisture retention test
The experimental method comprises the following steps:
(1) the total number of the subjects is 30 women, the age is 22-35 years, and the subjects meet the voluntary selection criteria.
(2) The tested part: the inner sides of the left and right front arms;
(3) and (3) testing environment: a constant temperature and humidity chamber with the temperature of 21.0 +/-1.0 ℃ and the humidity of 50% +/-5%;
(4) the test method comprises the following steps: firstly, cleaning a test part with clear water, and then statically sitting for 30 minutes in a constant-temperature and constant-humidity environment to enable the skin to reach a stable state; blank values were tested for 3cm x 3cm areas of the inner side of different forearms, and then lipstick, eyeliner, liquid foundation were applied to the areas respectively and rested for 30 minutes. Applying the cleansing oil to the specified test area in an amount of 0.2mL for the bodies of examples 7 to 9 and comparative examples 20 to 23, massaging the test area in a circling manner for 30 seconds, adding 0.2mL of clear water, emulsifying, massaging the test area for 30 seconds, washing the test area with clear water, wiping the test area dry with a cosmetic cotton, and testing the moisture content and the moisture loss rate of the skin at 0h, 0.5h and 1h after makeup removal.
(5) Testing an instrument: the skin moisture content (moisture test probe Corneometer CM825) is higher, the higher the value is, the higher the moisture retention effect of the sample is; water loss rate (water loss probe TEWL Tewameter TM 300): the lower the number, the less the skin water loss, i.e. the better the moisturizing effect of the sample.
The results are shown in Table 10.
Table 10: skin moisture content and moisture loss ratio (%)
Figure BDA0003077375180000172
Figure BDA0003077375180000181
The results of the experiment in table 10 can be used: the bicontinuous phase cleansing oils of examples 7-9 provide better moisturization and increased skin moisture and reduced moisture loss after testing. Comparative examples 20 to 23 the conventional pure oil cleansing oil had no significant moisturizing effect and had more water loss than the examples. As further illustrated by example 7 and comparative example 23, the makeup remover without rice bran oil and all-grass jade screen oil was significantly weaker in terms of moisture retention than the bicontinuous phase makeup remover with these two types of oils.
Experiment 6: trial investigation of consumers
The experimental method comprises the following steps:
(1) the total number of the subjects is 100, the age is 22-35 years, female consumers who have daily makeup habits and need makeup removal at night all meet the volunteer selection standard of the subjects, the subjects are randomly divided into 5 groups, 20 persons in each group, and the trial investigation is carried out on 5 aspects of the examples 1-5 and the comparative examples 24-28; the contents of the research comprise: a: whether the composition has the effects of repairing cuticle and resisting inflammation; b: whether the cleansing cream has obvious cleansing and makeup removing effects on eye liner, lipstick, foundation liquid and pore blackheads; c: whether the skin is tight after makeup removal; d: whether the skin has strong oily feeling after makeup removal needs secondary cleaning; e: whether the acne is smoldered or not after continuous use;
(2) the using part: half face use;
(3) the use frequency is as follows: the preparation is taken once a night, about 3mL, and is continuously used for 30 days;
(4) the testing method comprises pumping out appropriate amount of material, uniformly coating on half face, massaging for 30 s in a circling manner, adding appropriate amount of clear water, emulsifying, massaging for 30 s, washing with clear water, and drying with towel. Half face is compared with trial results. The consumers were interviewed and investigated after 30 days.
Wherein, the example 1 and the comparative example 24 are experimental control groups; example 2 and comparative example 25 are experimental controls; example 3 and comparative example 26 are experimental controls; example 4 and comparative example 27 are experimental controls; example 5 and comparative example 28 are experimental controls.
The results of the investigation report are shown in fig. 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7; in the figure, the ordinate represents the percentage (%) and the abscissa represents the corresponding test products (cleansing oils of examples 1 to 5 and comparative examples 24 to 28).
The results of the investigation according to fig. 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7 show that: the bicontinuous phase cleansing oils of examples 1-5, with the addition of rice bran oil and lily jade screen oil, have skin care, barrier repair, and anti-inflammatory effects after continuous use; meanwhile, the makeup removing effect on eyeliner, lipstick and foundation liquid is better, and the cleaning effect on blackheads is good; the bicontinuous phase cleansing oils of examples 1-5 are comfortable to the skin and have a weak tight feel after use, form a fine emulsion when rinsed with a large amount of water, reduce reattachment of the oil phase to the skin surface, have a weak oily feel after use, do not require secondary cleansing, and do not cause excessive degreasing and drying of the skin; the percentage of pox appearance after application of the bicontinuous cleansing oils of examples 1-5 was also much lower than that of comparative examples 24-28.
Experiment 7: blackhead removing effect
The experimental method comprises the following steps: the test was carried out after embedding and applying artificial blackheads (formula table 11) on a silicon plate (10mm x 1.5mm) with openings of about 1mm, the total amount of application being about 0.1 g; applying 0.5g of each test article (example 2, comparative example 25, comparative example 29, comparative example 30) to the silicon plate model coated with the blackheads, massaging the abdomen of the fingers for 1min, and then washing with water for 30 seconds; after washing, the number of blackhead drops after use of example 2 was confirmed by a digital microscope at 25-fold magnification, and the observation mirror image thereof under a magnifying glass is shown in FIG. 8, and the results of the experiment are shown in Table 12.
Table 11: artificial blackhead formula
Name of raw materials Content (%)
Sterols 20.00
Keratin powder 40.00
Olive oil 39.90
No. 225 red 0.10
Table 12: number of artificial blackheads released after use of each test article
Figure BDA0003077375180000191
Figure BDA0003077375180000201
According to the experimental phenomenon of fig. 8 and the experimental data of table 12, it can be seen that the effect of removing artificial blackheads of example 2 of the present invention using bis-diethoxydiol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate as a hydrophilic and lipophilic component in combination with the bicontinuous phase system is significantly better than that of comparative example 25 (bicontinuous makeup remover system, containing no lipophilic and hydrophilic component), comparative example 29 (conventional oil makeup remover, containing lipophilic and hydrophilic component), and comparative example 30 (conventional oil makeup remover, containing no lipophilic and hydrophilic component).
While the invention has been described with reference to specific embodiments, the invention is not limited thereto, and various equivalent modifications and substitutions can be easily made by those skilled in the art within the technical scope of the invention. Therefore, the protection scope of the present invention shall be subject to the protection scope of the claims.

Claims (9)

1. The bicontinuous phase cleansing oil with the effects of cleaning and nourishing the skin is characterized by comprising the following raw materials in percentage by weight:
and (3) an emollient: 65-80 percent;
lipophilic and hydrophilic components: 1 to 4 percent;
antioxidant: 0.001-0.1%;
surfactant (b): 17-22%;
deionized water: 0.5-8.5%;
polyol: 0.01 to 0.5 percent;
preservative: 0.01-1.00%;
essence: 0.01 to 0.4 percent;
wherein the lipophilic and hydrophilic components are bis-diethoxydiol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylic acid ester.
2. The bicontinuous makeup removing oil with skin cleansing and nourishing effects according to claim 1, characterized in that said emollient is an oil-soluble emollient; the oil-soluble emollient is at least one of mineral oil, diisopropyl sebacate, rice bran oil, Jade screen oil, and cetyl ethyl hexanoate.
3. The bicontinuous phase cleansing oil with skin cleansing and nourishing effects of claim 1 wherein said surfactant comprises PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate.
4. The bicontinuous phase cleansing oil with skin cleansing and nourishing effects according to claim 3, wherein said surfactant further comprises at least one of PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate and PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate.
5. The bicontinuous phase cleansing oil with skin cleansing and nourishing effects according to claim 1, characterized in that said antioxidant is tocopheryl acetate.
6. The cleansing and skin caring oil according to claim 1, wherein the polyhydric alcohol is at least one of 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol and 1, 3-butanediol.
7. The cleansing and skin caring oil according to claim 1, wherein the preservative is at least one of phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin.
8. The cleansing oil with the effects of beautifying and nourishing skin according to claim 1, characterized in that the essence is at least one of flower fragrance and fruit fragrance.
9. A method for preparing the bicontinuous phase cleansing oil with skin cleansing and nourishing effects according to any one of claims 1 to 8, comprising the following steps:
(1) weighing the components according to the proportion, heating the emollient, the oleophylic and hydrophilic component, the antioxidant and the surfactant to 50-60 ℃, and fully stirring and uniformly mixing to obtain a mixed phase;
(2) cooling the mixed phase to 40-45 ℃, then preserving heat, adding deionized water at the speed of 60-180mL/min under the stirring state, and continuing stirring for 15-20min after the addition is finished to obtain a mixture;
(3) sequentially adding polyalcohol, antiseptic and essence into the mixture under heat preservation condition while stirring, stirring thoroughly for 10-15min until a uniform transparent liquid without any suspended floccule is formed, and cooling to 37 deg.C to obtain the bicontinuous phase cleansing oil with skin caring effect.
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