CN114588079B - Strong-cleaning bicontinuous phase composition and preparation method and application thereof - Google Patents
Strong-cleaning bicontinuous phase composition and preparation method and application thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN114588079B CN114588079B CN202111161899.1A CN202111161899A CN114588079B CN 114588079 B CN114588079 B CN 114588079B CN 202111161899 A CN202111161899 A CN 202111161899A CN 114588079 B CN114588079 B CN 114588079B
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- surfactant
- cleansing
- phase composition
- bicontinuous
- composition
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- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
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- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
- A61K8/463—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfuric acid derivatives, e.g. sodium lauryl sulfate
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/4993—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
- A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/86—Polyethers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
- A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/14—Preparations for removing make-up
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
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Abstract
The invention relates to the field of IPC A61K8/00, in particular to a strong and clean bicontinuous phase composition and a preparation method and application thereof. The raw materials comprise 78-99.2% of surfactant composition and 0.8-22% of amphiphilic molecule; the surfactant composition is divided into a first surfactant and a second surfactant; the weight ratio of the first surfactant to the second surfactant is (85-95): (1-4). The cleansing agent adopts the bicontinuous cleansing component, has stronger cleansing power on cleansing products, can rapidly and thoroughly remove cleansing marks on the surface of skin, inhibits secondary deposition of cleansing products, and has excellent cleansing effect; the bicontinuous product of the invention can effectively remove various make-up, and is especially suitable for removing lipstick, eyeliner and mascara; meanwhile, the cosmetic remover is safe and non-irritating, and can meet the makeup removing requirements of various skin people.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the field of IPC A61K8/00, in particular to a strong and clean bicontinuous phase composition and a preparation method and application thereof.
Background
With the improvement of life quality and health consciousness of people, various makeup removing products are introduced in the market, wherein the makeup removing water has fresh texture and poor cleaning effect; the cleansing oil has strong cleansing power, but has high skin irritation and is easy to damage the water-oil balance of the skin epidermis. Meanwhile, along with the optimization of the makeup in the aspect of improving the skin attaching force, the conventional makeup removing product cannot solve the problem that the makeup is deposited for the second time and removed thoroughly in the makeup removing process. Compared with the cleansing oil product, the bicontinuous phase composition has the effects of being fresh and not greasy in use and not needing to be cleaned by means of a cleansing product again after cleansing.
Chinese patent CN201710504241.3 discloses a cleansing emulsion gel and a preparation method thereof, and good cleansing effect is achieved through PEG-6 caprylic/capric triglyceride, polyalcohol compound, squalane and the like; the Chinese patent CN202010094991.X discloses a bicontinuous phase type eye and lip cleansing liquid and a preparation method thereof, wherein PEG-20 glycerol tristearate, sorbitol-30 tetraisostearate and an emollient are adopted to act, so that a cleansing product suitable for eyes and lips is obtained. The prior art still has the problem that cleansing power and safety mildness are not balanced, the skin irritation of the product capable of efficiently removing the makeup is often large, and the mild cleansing product cannot prevent the redeposition of the makeup. Under such a background, the research of a makeup removal product integrating makeup removal effect and safety and mildness is a problem to be solved in the art.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention solves the technical problem that the cleansing power and safety mildness cannot be balanced in the prior art by providing the bicontinuous phase composition with strong cleansing effect, and realizes the cleansing product with strong cleansing power, safety and stability by compounding the amphiphilic molecules in the bicontinuous phase system.
The invention provides a strong cleaning bicontinuous phase composition, which comprises the following raw materials in percentage by weight: 78-99.2% of surfactant composition and 0.8-22% of amphiphilic molecule;
in some preferred embodiments, the surfactant composition is divided into a first surfactant and a second surfactant; the weight ratio of the first surfactant to the second surfactant is (85-95): (1-4).
In some preferred embodiments, the first surfactant has an HLB value of 8 to 14 and the second surfactant has an HLB value of 20 or more.
Further preferably, the HLB value of the first surfactant is from 10 to 12 and the HLB value of the second surfactant is from 20 to 40.
In some preferred embodiments, the first surfactant comprises one or more of PEG-7 glycerol fatty acid ester, polysorbate, polyoxypropylene mannitol dioleate, PEG-8 dioleate, oleyl ether-5, polyoxyethylene lauryl ether, polyoxyethylene cetyl ether, PEG-20 sorbitan tristearate, polyoxyethylene oxypropylene oleate, PEG-40 castor oil, lauroyl sarcosine.
Further preferably, the first surfactant comprises one or more of PEG-8 glycerol isostearate, PEG-7 glycerol cocoate, PEG-20 glycerol triisostearate, polysorbate-85 in combination.
In some preferred embodiments, the second surfactant comprises a combination of one or more of alkyl glucosides, stearoyl glutamate, cetostearyl alcohol sulfate, sodium N-cetyl-N-ethylmorpholinoethyl sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate.
Further preferably, the second surfactant comprises a combination of one or more of alkyl glucosides, sodium stearyl glutamate, sodium cetostearyl alcohol sulfate.
In some preferred embodiments, the amphipathic molecules comprise at least two of bis-diethoxydiglycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate, ethoxydiglycol, ethylhexyl glycerol, alkyl sulphates.
Further preferably, the amphipathic molecule is bis-diethoxydiglycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylic acid ester and ethoxydiglycol, and the mass ratio of the bis-diethoxydiglycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylic acid ester and the ethoxydiglycol is (5-10): (1-4); preferably 7:1.5.
When the conventional makeup removing product removes makeup, the problem that the cleaning force is insufficient and the makeup is removed incompletely often exists; the makeup removing oil can dissolve makeup faster and promote makeup removing force for makeup removing water and makeup removing cream. In the research process, the invention discovers that the cleansing power of the cleansing product can be obviously improved by adopting the first surfactant with the HLB value of 10-12 and the second surfactant with the HLB value of 20-40 to compound; the reason is probably that after the water-oil bicontinuous phase medium formed under the condition acts on the skin, the interfacial surface tension can be obviously reduced, so that the stagnation component in the makeup component is changed into a flowing component and separated from the skin along with the cleaning process, and the clean makeup removal effect is achieved.
However, with the improvement of people's consciousness of love, the staying effect of the color cosmetics on the skin surface is maintained and prolonged, and various auxiliary agents are often added into the color cosmetics to increase the adhesive capability of the color cosmetics on the skin surface; when makeup removal oil is used for makeup removal, secondary deposition of the auxiliary agents (such as pigments) is easy to occur in the dissolving process, and the auxiliary agents cannot be removed cleanly. According to the invention, a large number of experiments prove that the application of amphiphilic molecules, especially the combined action of macromolecular amphiphilic molecules (such as bis-diethoxydiglycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylic acid ester) and micromolecular amphiphilic molecules (such as ethoxydiglycol or ethylhexyl glycerol) can obviously inhibit the secondary deposition adhesion of the makeup remover after the makeup remover is dissolved, the addition of specific amphiphilic molecules can improve the penetrability of the makeup remover composition at the interface between the makeup component and the skin surface layer, the makeup remover component after the amphiphilic molecules are added can be rapidly spread on the skin epidermis, and a layer of low-surface tension protective film is spread on the skin surface while the makeup component is dissolved, so that the re-enrichment and adhesion of the makeup remover on the skin surface are inhibited, and the effect of thoroughly removing the makeup is achieved.
In a second aspect, the present invention provides a method for preparing a strong clean bicontinuous phase composition, the method comprising the steps of: weighing the raw materials, mixing, heating to 30-50deg.C, maintaining the temperature, and stirring for 20-40min to obtain the product of the bicontinuous phase composition.
The invention provides an application of a strong and clean bicontinuous phase composition, which is applied to cleansing oil or cleansing gel, and the mass ratio of the bicontinuous phase composition to the cleansing oil or cleansing gel is 10-50%.
In some preferred embodiments, the cleansing oil comprises the following raw materials in percentage by weight: 30-36% of bicontinuous phase composition, 0.1-5% of saturated fatty acid, 24-35% of caprylic acid hard ester, 2-10% of C10-18 isoparaffin, 5-32% of humectant, 0.05-0.15% of EDTA disodium, 0.1-1% of preservative and the balance of water.
In some preferred embodiments, the raw materials of the cleansing gel include, in weight percent: 25-35% of bicontinuous phase composition, 10-35% of humectant, 25-34% of caprylic acid hard ester, 0.05-0.15% of EDTA disodium, 1-10% of vegetable oil, 0.1-2% of thickener, 0.1-1% of neutralizer, 0.1-1% of preservative and the balance of water.
In some preferred embodiments, the saturated fatty acids include one or more of isostearic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid.
Further preferably, the saturated fatty acid is isostearic acid.
In some preferred embodiments, the C10-18 isoparaffin comprises isohexadecane and/or isododecane.
Further preferably, the C10-18 isoparaffin is isohexadecane.
In some preferred embodiments, the humectant comprises one or more of sorbitol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, allantoin, xylitol, polyethylene glycol, hyaluronic acid, ceramide.
Further preferably, the humectant is sorbitol and dipropylene glycol, and the weight ratio of sorbitol to dipropylene glycol is 10:18.
The preservative is a preservative commonly used in the art, and is not particularly limited, for example, phenoxyethanol.
In some preferred embodiments, the preparation method of the cleansing oil is not particularly limited, and is a preparation method commonly used by those skilled in the art; for example: weighing the raw materials, mixing, heating to 30-50deg.C, and stirring.
In some preferred embodiments, the vegetable oil comprises one or more of olive oil, camellia seed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, shea butter.
Further preferably, the vegetable oil is olive oil.
Examples of thickeners include, but are not limited to, carbomers, xanthan gum, pectin, agar, gelatin, cellulose and derivatives thereof.
In some preferred embodiments, the neutralizing agent is an alcohol amine compound, such as ethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine.
In some preferred embodiments, the preparation step of the cleansing gel comprises: adding humectant, EDTA disodium and deionized water into a stirring pot, starting stirring, slowly adding a thickening agent, heating to 50-60 ℃, homogenizing at 2000-3500RPM for 5-15min, sequentially adding caprylic acid stearyl, vegetable oil, a bicontinuous phase composition and a preservative, stirring and cooling to 35-45 ℃, slowly adding a neutralizing agent, and stirring for 5-15min to obtain the cleansing gel.
According to the invention, the amphiphilic molecules with specific molecular structures are compounded in the surfactant system to obtain the bicontinuous phase system with remarkable makeup removing capability, and the water phase and the oil phase in the obtained makeup removing composition are stable and uniform continuous phases, so that the amphiphilic phase system can be applied to non-aqueous makeup removing products (such as makeup removing oil and makeup removing gel) to effectively remove oil-in-water type and water-in-oil type cosmetics in a broad spectrum manner, and can also improve the temperature resistance and the storage stability of the products. The invention further researches and discovers that substances such as caprylic acid hard ester, isostearic acid, isohexadecane and the like are added into the cleansing oil or cleansing gel to act together with the cleansing composition, so that the synergistic effect of the surfactant, the amphiphilic molecules and the cleansing components can be further promoted, and the cleansing power of the cleansing product is improved; meanwhile, the defects of strong stimulation, dry skin after use, easy acne, growth promotion and anaphylactic reaction and the like of the cleansing oil can be overcome; the cleansing oil or cleansing gel is suitable for removing various makeup products, such as foundation, lipstick, eyebrow pencil, mascara, eye shadow, eye line and the like; simultaneously, the sensory experience of a user in the makeup removal process is optimized, and the moisturizing and skin-moisturizing effects are achieved while the makeup is removed.
The beneficial effects are that:
the invention provides a double continuous phase composition with strong cleaning effect and application thereof, and the double continuous phase composition has the following advantages:
(1) The cleansing agent adopts the bicontinuous cleansing component, has stronger cleansing power on cleansing products, can rapidly and thoroughly remove cleansing marks on the surface of skin, inhibits secondary deposition of cleansing products, and has excellent cleansing effect;
(2) The invention is safe and mild, has no irritation and allergy symptoms on skin during use, provides water locking protection for skin during makeup removal, has comfortable sensory experience during use, is breathable and fresh, and is not greasy;
(3) The bicontinuous phase makeup removing component has strong formula compatibility, can be applied to various makeup removing products (especially makeup removing oil and makeup removing gel), and is not easy to cause the problem of component incompatibility; the obtained makeup removing product can be stored for a long time under the conditions of high temperature and low temperature, and has stable phase state;
(4) The bicontinuous product of the invention can effectively remove various make-up, and is especially suitable for removing lipstick, eyeliner and mascara; meanwhile, the formula is easy to obtain, the process is simple and convenient, the makeup removing requirement of various skin people can be met, and the makeup removing agent is suitable for being widely popularized in the field of makeup removing products.
Detailed Description
Example 1.
The embodiment provides a strong cleaning bicontinuous phase composition, which comprises the following raw materials in percentage by weight: 91.5% of surfactant composition and 8.5% of amphiphilic molecule.
The surfactant composition is divided into a first surfactant and a second surfactant; the weight ratio of the first surfactant to the second surfactant is 90:1.5.
the first surfactant is PEG-7 glycerol cocoate, and the HLB value is 10.6.
The second surfactant is alkyl glucoside, and HLB value is about 15
The amphiphilic molecule is bis-diethoxydiglycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylic acid ester and ethoxydiglycol, and the mass ratio of the bis-diethoxydiglycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylic acid ester to the ethoxydiglycol is 7:1.5.
Bis-diethoxydiglycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate is derived from Shenyang Hui Mei Biotech Co.Ltd.
The preparation steps of the strong cleaning bicontinuous phase composition comprise: weighing the raw materials, mixing, heating to 40 ℃, and stirring for 30min at a constant temperature to obtain a bicontinuous phase composition product.
Example 2.
The present example provides the use of a strong cleansing bicontinuous phase composition for cleansing oils.
The cleansing oil comprises the following raw materials in percentage by weight: 33% of a bicontinuous phase composition, 1.5% of saturated fatty acid, 30% of caprylic acid stearoyl, 5% of C10-18 isoparaffin, 28% of humectant, 0.1% of EDTA disodium, 0.5% of preservative and the balance of deionized water.
The bicontinuous composition was the bicontinuous composition product obtained in example 1.
The saturated fatty acid is isostearic acid.
The C10-18 isoparaffin is isohexadecane.
The humectant is sorbitol and dipropylene glycol, and the weight ratio of sorbitol to dipropylene glycol is 10:18.
The preservative is phenoxyethanol.
The preparation method of the cleansing oil comprises the following steps: weighing the raw materials, mixing, heating to 40 ℃, preserving heat and stirring for 30min to obtain the finished product of the cleansing oil.
Example 3.
The present example provides the use of a strong cleansing bicontinuous phase composition for use in a make-up removal gel.
The cleansing gel comprises the following raw materials in percentage by weight: 30% of a bicontinuous phase composition, 28% of a humectant, 30% of caprylic acid hard ester, 0.1% of EDTA disodium, 5% of vegetable oil and fat, 0.8% of a thickening agent, 0.6% of a neutralizing agent, 0.5% of a preservative and the balance of deionized water.
The bicontinuous composition was the bicontinuous composition product obtained in example 1.
The saturated fatty acid is isostearic acid.
The humectant is sorbitol and dipropylene glycol, and the weight ratio of sorbitol to dipropylene glycol is 10:18.
The preservative is phenoxyethanol.
The vegetable oil is olive oil.
The thickener is carbomer.
The neutralizing agent is triethanolamine.
The preparation steps of the cleansing gel comprise: adding humectant, EDTA disodium and deionized water into a stirring pot, starting stirring, slowly adding a thickening agent at a stirring speed of 60RPM, heating to 55 ℃, homogenizing at 3000RPM for 10min, sequentially adding caprylic acid stearyl, vegetable oil and fat, a bicontinuous phase composition and a preservative, stirring and cooling to 40 ℃, slowly adding a neutralizing agent, stirring for 10min, and stirring at a stirring speed of 60RPM to obtain the cleansing gel.
Performance test method
1. Cleaning force:
cleaning force test is carried out on subjects (2) coated with makeup by adopting a Icerici 64-spectrophotometer and a CK moisture test probe; the testing method comprises the following steps: the lipstick, eyeliner and mascara were applied to the cleaned arms of the subjects, and the two subjects were applied with the cleansing oil of examples 2 and 3 to the application area (application amount 1mL/9 cm) 2 Massaging for one minute after painting) to remove makeup, and then washing with water; testing the color difference delta E of each area before (1) coating, (2) after coating and (3) after removing makeup, and rootThe cleaning force C is calculated according to the delta E, and the calculation formula is as follows:
wherein L (brightness), a (red/green value), b (blue/Huang Zhi) are all determined by spectrophotometry.
The subject met the following conditions: 1. women in non-gestational or lactating period; 2. a non-psychotic, a narcotic; 3. patients without systemic disease or severe skin disease; 4. there was no history of severe allergies (including cosmetics and others).
The color cosmetics applied from top to bottom are 1: qishimei superfine waterproof eyeliner, make-up product 3: qishimei third generation waterproof mascara, make-up product 2: a perfect diary hazy dream matte lip glaze.
2. Stability of
The samples of examples 2 and 3 were placed at-18℃and 5℃for 12 weeks, respectively, and the samples were taken out without defects such as delamination, discoloration, and precipitation.
Performance test data
Table 1.
Claims (1)
1. The application of the double continuous phase composition with strong cleaning effect is characterized in that the double continuous phase composition is applied to cleansing oil;
the cleansing oil comprises the following raw materials in percentage by weight: 33% of a bicontinuous phase composition, 1.5% of saturated fatty acid, 30% of caprylic acid stearoyl, 5% of C10-18 isoparaffin, 28% of humectant, 0.1% of EDTA disodium, 0.5% of preservative and the balance of deionized water;
the bicontinuous phase composition comprises the following raw materials in percentage by weight: 91.5% of surfactant composition and 8.5% of amphiphilic molecules;
the surfactant composition is divided into a first surfactant and a second surfactant; the weight ratio of the first surfactant to the second surfactant is 90:1.5;
the first surfactant is PEG-7 glycerol cocoate, and the HLB value is 10.6;
the second surfactant is alkyl glucoside, and the HLB value is about 15;
the amphiphilic molecule is bis-diethoxydiglycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylic acid ester and ethoxydiglycol, and the mass ratio of the bis-diethoxydiglycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylic acid ester to the ethoxydiglycol is 7:1.5;
the preparation steps of the strong cleaning bicontinuous phase composition comprise: weighing the raw materials, mixing, heating to 40 ℃, and stirring for 30min at a constant temperature to obtain a bicontinuous phase composition product;
the saturated fatty acid is isostearic acid;
the C10-18 isoparaffin is isohexadecane;
the humectant is sorbitol and dipropylene glycol, and the weight ratio of the sorbitol to the dipropylene glycol is 10:18;
the preservative is phenoxyethanol.
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