CN112842921B

CN112842921B - Multilayer cleansing lotion and preparation method thereof

Info

Publication number: CN112842921B
Application number: CN202110065691.3A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 苏晋峰; 张欢仪; 林锦雄
Original assignee: Guangzhou Aibei Biological Technology Co Ltd
Current assignee: Guangzhou Aibei Biological Technology Co Ltd
Priority date: 2021-01-18
Filing date: 2021-01-18
Publication date: 2022-05-06
Anticipated expiration: 2041-01-18
Also published as: CN112842921A

Abstract

The invention provides a multilayer makeup remover and a preparation method thereof, and relates to the technical field of cosmetics. The multilayer cleansing liquid provided by the invention comprises four phases including a phase D, a phase C, a phase B and a phase A from bottom to top, and comprises the following components in parts by weight: phase A: 5.00-50.00 parts of natural grease; phase B: 15.00-25.00 parts of polydimethylsiloxane; and C phase: 21.00-27.00 parts of emulsifier; phase D: 2.00 to 6.00 portions of solvent, 0.01 to 0.10 portion of stabilizer and 18.00 to 28.00 portions of polyalcohol humectant. According to the technical scheme, the raw materials with different phase solubility and density difference are reasonably matched and combined to prepare the multilayer makeup remover, so that the product is in a uniform liquid state after being shaken uniformly when in use, can be automatically separated into a stable four-layer structure after standing for a period of time after being used, and has strong interestingness and good visual effect; and the formula is not added with an antibacterial preservative, so that the prepared cleansing liquid product is mild, has no stimulation and has good safety.

Description

Multilayer makeup remover and preparation method thereof

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a multi-layer cleansing lotion and a preparation method thereof.

Background

The currently marketed multi-layer cleansing liquid mainly comprises two layers or three layers, the product appearance is poor in novelty, the number of layers of the cleansing liquid can be increased in order to enable the cleansing liquid to have better appearance, but when the number of layers of the cleansing liquid is designed to be four, the cleansing liquid cannot be separated to form a uniform and stable four-layer structure after being mixed and placed still easily due to different compatibility and stability of each component, and therefore the required effect cannot be achieved. In addition, a large amount of water needs to be added into the currently marketed multi-layer makeup remover, and the skin feel after makeup removal is relatively dry due to the relatively high proportion of water in the formula and the relatively limited moistening degree; and a large amount of water promotes the growth of microorganisms, and in this case, a preservative needs to be added for inhibition. However, the main stream of preservatives have high oil solubility, and the preservatives gradually migrate from the water phase to the oil phase, so that the preservative power of the water phase layer is weakened, which can be generally solved only by increasing the addition amount of the preservatives, but also increases the skin irritation.

Disclosure of Invention

In order to overcome the defects of the prior art, the invention mainly aims to provide the multi-layer makeup remover and the preparation method thereof, so that the prepared makeup remover has stronger interestingness and good visual effect, can present a stable four-layer structure, is mild and non-irritant, and has good moistening feeling and non-dry skin feeling after being used.

In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the technical scheme that:

in a first aspect, the invention provides a multilayer makeup remover, which comprises a phase D, a phase C, a phase B and a phase A from bottom to top, and comprises the following components in parts by weight:

phase A: 5.00-50.00 parts of natural grease;

phase B: 15.00-25.00 parts of polydimethylsiloxane;

and C phase: 21.00-26.00 parts of emulsifier;

phase D: 2.00 to 6.00 portions of solvent, 0.01 to 0.10 portion of stabilizer and 18.00 to 28.00 portions of polyalcohol humectant.

The natural oil comprises at least one of olive fruit oil and jojoba seed oil;

in the technical scheme of the invention, the olive (Olea EUROPAEA) fruit oil is prepared by directly cold-pressing fresh olive fruits, does not undergo heating and chemical treatment, retains natural nutrient components, and contains a large amount of monounsaturated fatty acids. The olive fruit oil has excellent natural beauty effect, contains vitamin A, B, D, E, K, mineral substances and high content of monounsaturated fatty acid, and has certain treatment effect on skin; and has excellent moisture retention, and can absorb external moisture and lock the moisture in the skin to form a breathable film, thereby preventing moisture loss on the skin surface.

In the technical scheme of the invention, the jojoba (SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS) seed oil is derived from natural wax ester, the structure of the wax ester is different from that of most vegetable oils (fatty acid glycerolipid), but is similar to that of sebum, and the carbon chain is distributed in the range of 40-42.

The jojoba seed oil has effects of softening and moistening skin and hair, and can be easily absorbed, and after application, a breathable film is formed on skin or hair, to reduce water loss without blocking pores. After the jojoba seed oil enters the intercellular substance, the lipid carrier of the jojoba seed oil is utilized to assist the repair of the intercellular substance and fix water in the lipid carrier, so that the effects of reducing water loss and strengthening the skin are finally achieved. In addition, the jojoba seed oil also contains antioxidant components such as vitamin E, which can reduce the attack of free radicals to skin and reduce the generation of wrinkles, and has nonpolar and antioxidant properties, which can keep oil in a dissolved state, is beneficial to discharging oil on the skin surface, and reduces or removes blackheads.

The dynamic viscosity of the polydimethylsiloxane at 25 ℃ is 300-500 cst;

in the technical scheme of the invention, the polydimethylsiloxane with dynamic viscosity of 300-500cst is used as the silicone oil with medium and low polymerization degree, has higher density than natural oil, and the density is 0.97g/cm³The oil-soluble polymer has low solubility with oil and fat, and can quickly realize layering after standing; the polydimethylsiloxane can realize makeup dissolving by the principle of similar intermiscibility, and has particularly remarkable makeup removing effect on products made of organosilicon raw materials such as foundation liquid, non-stick lipstick and the like.

The solvent is water;

the stabilizer is at least one of sodium chloride and magnesium sulfate.

In the technical scheme of the invention, sodium chloride and magnesium sulfate are selected as stabilizers, so that the solubility of the emulsifier in the phase D can be reduced, and the layering speed of the phase C and the phase D is improved.

In the technical scheme of the invention, the polyalcohol moisturizing agent has good moisturizing property, corrosion prevention and synergism capability, water solubility and higher density, and the integral density of a phase D can be improved in the formula, so that the layering speed is improved.

As a preferred embodiment of the multi-layer cleansing fluid, the emulsifier comprises 20.00-23.00 parts of polyglycerol-3 decanoate and 1.00-4.00 parts of PEG-20 glycerol triisostearate.

In the technical scheme of the invention, the average density of the polyglycerol-3 decanoate is 1.07g/cm³PEG-20 Glycerol triisostearate has an average density of 1.00g/cm³According to different emulsifying capacities and densities of the emulsifiers, the two emulsifiers are compounded according to a certain proportion, and the layering effect is realized on the premise of keeping good makeup removing capability.

As a preferable embodiment of the multi-layer cleansing liquid, the polyhydric alcohol humectant comprises at least one of butanediol, 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 3-propanediol and glycerol.

In the technical scheme of the invention, the 1, 3-propylene glycol is a polyalcohol humectant derived from corn, and has good moisture retention and antiseptic synergistic capability. The glycerol is polyalcohol humectant, has good water solubility and high density, and has a glycerol density of 1.26g/cm³The integral density of the phase D can be improved in the formula, and the layering speed is improved.

As a preferable embodiment of the multi-layer cleansing liquid, the polyhydric alcohol humectant comprises 5.00-10.00 parts of 1, 3-propylene glycol and 13.00-18.00 parts of glycerin.

As a preferred embodiment of the multi-layer cleansing liquid, the phase A also comprises 0.12 to 2.10 parts of a skin conditioning agent, and the skin conditioning agent comprises at least one of lipophilic extracts of carrots and orange peel oil.

In the technical scheme of the invention, the lipophilic extract of Carrot is Carrot Oil CLR, is stored in stabilized soybean Oil, is rich in beta-carotene with antioxidant effect, and has the effects of promoting skin regeneration, keeping skin luster and repairing after sunburn. In addition, the beta carotene is used as a natural pigment, when the pigment is diluted to a certain proportion, an attractive golden yellow color can be called, and the phase A is colored by adding Carrot Oil CLR in the formula, so that the phase interface is clearer, and the appearance with more layering is obtained. Carrot Oil CLR comprises the following ingredients:

β carotene: the most ubiquitous and stable natural pigment in nature, one of the most effective antioxidants against free radicals, acts as an antioxidant in the normal metabolism of the body, helping cells slow down the aging process;

② carrot (Daucus CAROTA SATIVA) root extract: has strong oxidation resistance and has an effect of eliminating singlet oxygen; meanwhile, the proliferation of fibroblasts can be promoted, the activity of collagenase can be inhibited, and the anti-aging and anti-wrinkling effects can be realized; in addition, the whitening cream has an inhibiting effect on the activity of melanocytes and has a certain whitening effect;

③ wild soybean (GLYCINE SOJA) oil: the oil extracted from the wild soybeans can be used as a growth factor of epidermis, can nourish the skin, relieve the dryness and roughness of the skin and make the skin smooth and tender for a long time;

(iv) tocopherol (vitamin E): a primary oil-soluble antioxidant protects lipoproteins and unsaturated fatty acids in the cell membrane against the effects of free radicals generated by oxygen and environmental pollution, and reduces the probability of free radicals attacking polyunsaturated fatty acids and other biologically important constituents in membrane phospholipids.

In the technical scheme of the invention, the sweet orange peel oil has a proliferation effect on hyaluronic acid and has oxidation resistance, so that the sweet orange peel oil has a good nursing effect on dry and aged skin when being properly added.

As a preferred embodiment of the multi-layer cleansing liquid of the present invention, the phase D further comprises at least one of a-b:

a: 0.0005 to 0.0030 part of colorant;

in the technical scheme of the invention, food-grade pigment with good water solubility is used as a coloring agent for adjusting the color of the D phase, so that the definition of a phase interface can be improved. And the natural pigment is used for coloring, so that the lip cleansing cream has better safety and is more suitable for lip cleansing.

b: 1.00-3.00 parts of chelating agent.

As a preferred embodiment of the multi-layer cleansing liquid according to the present invention, the colorant is brilliant blue.

As a preferred embodiment of the multi-layer cleansing liquid, the chelating agent is a mixture prepared by compounding caprylyl hydroximic acid, 1,2 hexanediol and 1,3 propanediol.

The microorganisms release chelating agents in the metabolic process to capture Fe from the environment³⁺And converting it to Fe²⁺In the technical scheme, considering that iron is a key element for the growth of microorganisms, the invention adopts a chelating agent prepared by compounding caprylyl hydroximic acid, 1,2 hexanediol and 1,3 propanediol, wherein the caprylyl hydroximic acid is used for chelating Fe³⁺And Fe²⁺Has high selectivity chelation, especially to Fe³⁺The chelating stability constant of the cleansing liquid is high, so that microorganisms can be prevented from obtaining iron elements, the growth of the microorganisms is limited in an environment with limited iron ions, the antiseptic and antibacterial capacity of the cleansing liquid is improved, and no antiseptic addition is realized.

In a second aspect, the invention also provides a preparation method of the multi-layer cleansing liquid, which comprises the following steps:

(1) weighing the raw materials of the phase A, mixing and uniformly stirring for later use;

(2) weighing the raw materials of the phase C, mixing and uniformly stirring for later use;

(3) dissolving the stabilizer in the phase D in the solvent to form a solution, adding the rest raw materials in the phase D into the solution, mixing and uniformly stirring for later use;

(4) and filling according to the sequence of the phase D, the phase C, the phase B and the phase A to obtain the multilayer makeup remover.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that:

(1) according to the technical scheme, the raw materials with different phase solubility and density difference are reasonably matched and combined to prepare the multilayer makeup remover, so that the product is in a uniform liquid state after being shaken uniformly when in use, can be automatically separated into a stable four-layer structure after standing for a period of time after being used, and has strong interestingness and good visual effect.

(2) In the formula of the invention, only a small amount of water is used as a solvent, and the rest components are oil and polyol and the like, so that the moisturizing effect is good, and the skin feel after makeup removal is not dry.

(3) The formula of the cleansing lotion is not added with an antibacterial preservative, and the prepared cleansing lotion product is mild, non-irritant and good in safety.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a state diagram showing the appearance of the multi-layer makeup remover prepared in example 1 after shaking;

FIG. 2 is a diagram showing the appearance of the multi-layer makeup remover prepared in example 1 after standing.

Detailed Description

To better illustrate the objects, aspects and advantages of the present invention, the present invention will be further described with reference to the following specific examples.

The sources and average densities of the raw materials in the examples and comparative examples according to the present invention are shown in table 1 below.

TABLE 1 comparison of the sources and average densities of the respective raw materials in example 1-and comparative example 1-

The multi-layer cleansing liquid is prepared by the following method in the examples and comparative examples related by the invention, and the preparation method of the multi-layer cleansing liquid comprises the following steps:

(3) dissolving the stabilizer in the phase D in the solvent to form a solution, adding at least one raw material of the residual polyalcohol humectant, the colorant and the chelating agent in the phase D into the solution, mixing and uniformly stirring for later use;

The raw material composition of examples 1 to 7 of the present invention is shown in Table 2.

TABLE 2 comparison of the raw material components of examples 1-7

The multi-layer makeup remover products prepared in examples 1 to 7 were evaluated in four dimensions of appearance, makeup remover, skin feel and moisture retention. Wherein, the makeup removing power comprises the makeup removing capability of five makeup products, namely lipstick, foundation liquid, eyeliner, mascara and eye shadow; the skin feel includes evaluation of the freshness and moisture of the product by the user. The specific evaluation method is as follows:

1. cleansing power test

The same amount of lipstick, eye shadow, eyeliner, mascara and foundation of the same type were applied to the same area of artificial leather, and after standing for 5min, the test cotton ball was soaked with 1mL of the above makeup remover sample, and the artificial leather coated with makeup product was wiped off (load 200 g, repeat 10 times). The makeup removal of each product for each test solution was recorded and scored (0-10 points, higher score indicates stronger makeup removal).

2. Skin feel test

20 volunteers (10 each for male and female, age 25-45 years) were randomly selected for use testing. The evaluators smear the same amount of samples on the arms respectively, and score the refreshing degree and the moistening degree in the smearing process of the samples (1-10 points, the higher the score is, the better the refreshing degree or the moistening degree is), and calculate the average value by summing up the scores of all the evaluators.

3. Moisture retention test

(1) Principle of experiment

The moisture test method uses the CORNEOMETER-capacitance method, and because water has high permittivity, the hydration degree of the skin surface layer, namely the water content of the stratum corneum, can be measured by the permittivity. The Corneometer CM825 skin moisture tester (Courage & Khazaka, germany) is based on this principle and reflects the moisture content in the skin surface layer by measuring the capacitance reading of the probe after contact with the skin, the higher the moisture content of the surface layer, the higher its capacitance and vice versa. The result is expressed by a set humidity Measurement Value (MMV). The MMV is a value of 0 to 150 (higher values indicate higher skin moisture content). The capacitance measuring method is superior to other methods in that the test result is practically not affected by polarization effect and ionic conductivity since the skin to be tested is not in unnatural contact with the test probe and almost no current flows through the skin to be tested. The instrument probe and the water in the skin have no inertia in the process of establishing balance, and can realize quick measurement, so that the influence of the active skin on the measurement result is eliminated.

(2) Experimental method

20 volunteers (10 each for male and female, age 25-45 years) were randomly selected for use testing. Before the test, the subjects need to uniformly wash the inner sides of the forearms of both hands with clean water. Measurement marks were made on the inner forearm of the subject after washing. In this experiment, the left and right forearms were marked with two test areas. After the subject was rested in a constant environment (temperature: 20 ℃ C.; relative humidity: 50%) for 30 minutes, one test article was applied to each area at intervals of 1 cm. Each test area was 5X 5cm2, and the test sample amount was 0.2 g. After the same time of rinsing with water, the residual moisture on the hands was blotted with a paper towel, and after 10 minutes, the skin moisture content was measured using a skin moisture test probe Corneometer CM825 (5 spots were fixedly measured in each area in a certain order). And summing the MMV values after the test of the evaluators, and calculating an average value.

The test results of the multi-layer cleansing liquids prepared in examples 1 to 7 are shown in table 3 below.

TABLE 3 test result data of the multi-layered makeup remover prepared in examples 1 to 7

The multi-layer cleansing liquid prepared in example 1 is shaken up to form a uniform and stable emulsion, as shown in fig. 1; after standing, the mixture is in a uniform and stable four-layer structure as shown in figure 2.

From the test results of the embodiments 1 to 7, the multi-layer cleansing liquid prepared by the raw materials and the mixture ratio specified in the technical scheme of the invention has a uniform and stable four-layer structure and good stability; the cleansing cream has strong makeup removing capability, has good skin refreshing degree and moistening degree after being used, and has good moisturizing and moistening effects.

In order to prove the beneficial effects of the raw materials and the mixture ratio in the technical scheme of the invention, experiments are carried out and verified through the following examples and comparative examples.

Investigating the influence of emulsifiers on multi-layer cleansing lotions

Example 8

This example differs from example 1 in that the emulsifiers in this example include: 19 parts of polyglycerol-3 decanoate and 5 parts of PEG-20 glycerol triisostearate.

Comparative example 1

This example differs from example 1 in that the emulsifiers in this example include: 26.5 parts of polyglycerol-3 decanoate and 0.5 part of PEG-20 glycerol triisostearate.

The multi-layer makeup removers prepared in example 8 and comparative example 1 were tested by the same test method as in example 1, and the test results of the multi-layer makeup removers prepared in example 8 and comparative example 1 are shown in table 4 below.

TABLE 4 test result data of the multi-layered makeup remover prepared in example 8 and comparative example 1

Comparing the test results of example 1 with those of example 8 and comparative example 1, it can be seen that in example 8, the addition amount of polyglycerol-3 decanoate is reduced, and the amount of PEG-20 glycerol triisostearate is increased, so that the prepared makeup remover can restore a uniform and stable four-layer structure after shaking and standing, but the moisture retention of the makeup remover is obviously reduced due to the change of the amounts of the two components. In comparative example 1, the addition amount of polyglycerol-3 decanoate was increased, PEG-20 glycerol triisostearate was decreased, and the prepared makeup remover was shaken up and then the D phase was partially dissolved in the C phase, and after standing, it could not be separated, and a stable four-layer structure could not be maintained.

The influence of the kind of oil in phase A on the multi-layer makeup remover was examined, and comparative examples 2 to 4 were set, the raw material components of comparative examples 2 to 4 are shown in Table 5, and the preparation methods of the makeup removers in comparative examples 2 to 4 were completely the same as those in examples 1 to 7.

TABLE 5 comparison of raw material components for comparative examples 2 to 4

The multi-layer makeup removers prepared in comparative examples 2 to 4 were tested using the same test method as in examples 1 to 7, and the test results of the multi-layer makeup removers prepared in comparative examples 2 to 4 are shown in table 6 below.

TABLE 6 test result data of the multi-layered makeup remover prepared in comparative examples 2 to 4

Comparing the test results of examples 1 to 4 with those of comparative examples 2 to 4, it can be seen that in comparative examples 2 to 4, mineral oil, isopropyl myristate and ethylhexyl palmitate were used instead of olive oil or jojoba seed oil, the prepared makeup remover could not be separated and kept in a stable four-layer structure after shaking up and standing, and the moisturizing degree and moisture retention degree of the makeup removers prepared in comparative examples 3 and 4 were significantly reduced.

Investigating the influence of different viscosity polydimethylsiloxanes on multi-layer makeup remover

Comparative example 5

This comparative example differs from example 1 in that phase B in this example is polydimethylsiloxane (10 cst).

Comparative example 6

This comparative example differs from example 1 in that phase B is polydimethylsiloxane (100cst) in this example.

The multi-layer makeup removers prepared in comparative examples 5 to 6 were tested using the same test method as in example 1, and the test results of the multi-layer makeup removers prepared in comparative examples 5 to 6 are shown in table 7 below.

TABLE 7 test result data of the multi-layered makeup removers prepared in comparative examples 5 to 6

The kinematic viscosity at 25 ℃ of the polydimethylsiloxane described in comparative example 5 was 10cst, and the kinematic viscosity at 25 ℃ of the polydimethylsiloxane described in comparative example 6 was 100cst, both of which were less than the kinematic viscosity at 25 ℃ of the polydimethylsiloxane described in example 1, which was 350 cst. Comparing the test results of example 1 and comparative examples 5 to 6, it can be seen that the B phase part was dissolved in the C phase layer after shaking up the makeup remover prepared in comparative examples 5 to 6, and the stable four-layer structure was not separated and maintained after standing. The reasons why the above phenomenon occurs are: with the increase of polymerization degree and viscosity, the blending property of the dimethyl silicone oil and the cosmetic grease is reduced, and due to the special molecular chain structures of the jojoba seed oil and the olive fruit oil, the jojoba seed oil and the olive fruit oil have lower intermiscibility with the polydimethylsiloxane with higher viscosity, so that the layering effect is realized.

Investigating the influence of stabilizer species on multi-layer cleansing liquid

Comparative example 7

This comparative example differs from example 1 in that no sodium chloride was added to phase D in this example.

Comparative example 8

This comparative example differs from example 1 in that the stabilizer in phase D in this example is potassium chloride.

The multi-layer makeup removers prepared in comparative examples 7 to 8 were tested using the same test method as in example 1, and the test results of the multi-layer makeup removers prepared in comparative examples 7 to 8 are shown in table 8 below.

TABLE 8 test result data of the multi-layered makeup removers prepared in comparative examples 7 to 8

As can be seen from table 8, neither comparative example 7, in which no stabilizer was added, nor comparative example 8, in which potassium chloride was added as a stabilizer, could maintain a uniform and stable four-layer structure.

Finally, it should be noted that the above embodiments are only used for illustrating the technical solutions of the present invention and not for limiting the protection scope of the present invention, and although the present invention is described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, it should be understood by those skilled in the art that modifications or equivalent substitutions can be made on the technical solutions of the present invention without departing from the spirit and scope of the technical solutions of the present invention.

Claims

1. The multilayer cleansing liquid is characterized by comprising a phase D, a phase C, a phase B and a phase A from bottom to top, and comprises the following components in parts by weight:

phase A: 5.00-50.00 parts of natural grease;

phase B: 15.00-25.00 parts of polydimethylsiloxane;

and C phase: 21.00-26.00 parts of emulsifier;

phase D: 2.00-6.00 parts of solvent, 0.01-0.10 part of stabilizer and 18.00-28.00 parts of polyalcohol humectant;

the natural oil comprises at least one of olive fruit oil and jojoba seed oil;

said polydimethylsiloxane is at 25^oThe dynamic viscosity of C is 300-500 cst;

the solvent is water;

the stabilizer is at least one of sodium chloride and magnesium sulfate;

the emulsifier comprises 20.00-23.00 parts of polyglycerol-3 decanoate and 1.00-4.00 parts of PEG-20 glycerol triisostearate;

the polyalcohol humectant comprises at least one of butanediol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, 1, 3-propylene glycol and glycerol;

the preparation method of the multilayer cleansing lotion comprises the following steps:

2. The multi-layer cleansing liquid according to claim 1, wherein said polyhydric alcohol-based moisturizing agent comprises 5.00 to 10.00 parts of 1, 3-propanediol and 13.00 to 18.00 parts of glycerin.

3. The multi-layer cleansing liquid according to claim 1, wherein the phase a further comprises 0.12 to 2.10 parts of a skin conditioning agent.

4. The multi-layer cleansing liquid according to claim 3, wherein said skin conditioning agent comprises at least one of a lipophilic extract of carrot, orange peel oil.

5. The multi-layer cleansing liquid according to claim 1, further comprising at least one of a-b in phase D:

a: 0.0005 to 0.0030 part of colorant;

b: 1.00-3.00 parts of chelating agent.

6. The multi-layer cleansing liquid according to claim 5, wherein said colorant is brilliant blue.

7. The multi-layer cleansing composition according to claim 5 wherein said chelating agent is a mixture prepared by formulating caprylyl hydroxamic acid, 1,2 hexanediol, and 1,3 propanediol.