CN107007492B - A kind of makeup remover and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
A kind of makeup remover and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN107007492B CN107007492B CN201710258305.6A CN201710258305A CN107007492B CN 107007492 B CN107007492 B CN 107007492B CN 201710258305 A CN201710258305 A CN 201710258305A CN 107007492 B CN107007492 B CN 107007492B
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/86—Polyethers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/63—Steroids; Derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/98—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin
- A61K8/987—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin of species other than mammals or birds
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/98—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin
- A61K8/987—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin of species other than mammals or birds
- A61K8/988—Honey; Royal jelly, Propolis
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/14—Preparations for removing make-up
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/52—Stabilizers
- A61K2800/522—Antioxidants; Radical scavengers
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Abstract
The invention discloses a kind of makeup remover, by weight, including following component:50 85 parts of grease;5 30 parts of Polyglycerol emulsifiers;Phytosterol/docosyl alcohol/0.1 3 parts of octyl decanol lauroyl glutamate ester;Glyceryl behenate/0.1 4 parts of 20 acid esters;0.1 5 parts of water;0.01 0.2 parts of antioxidant;0.01 0.2 parts of skin conditioning agent;0.01 1.0 parts of essence;0.001 2 parts of plant extraction liquid.The present invention is by the way that the acid esters of glyceryl behenate/20 of phytosterol/docosyl alcohol of certain content/octyl decanol lauroyl glutamate ester, certain content is added in the Polyglycerol emulsifiers and grease of plant origin, there is excellent moisturizing effect after use is provided, it is but not greasy, and it will not cause allergic and stimulate, there is thixotropy simultaneously, so as to provide the patch skin impression as the shusu unique when facial skin is massaged.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to cosmetic field, more particularly to a kind of makeup remover and preparation method thereof.
Background technology
Makeup remover is typically the oily flowable liquids mixed by grease and water bag emulsifying agent.The conventional oil of makeup remover
Ester refers generally to mineral oil, synthesis grease, cyclomethicone, dimethyl silicone polymer, vegetable oil and their mixing
Thing.Emulsifying agent in makeup remover is often referred to polysorbas20, PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearates, PPG-26- butylol polyether -26,
Cremophor RH40, PEG-60 rilanit specials and their mixture.In makeup removing, a small amount of makeup remover is generally taken to exist
On palm, then it is applied to the cosmetic such as face, lip, eye region and is massaged.Makeup remover is first with phase between grease
The molten characteristic of patibhaga-nimitta, the grease in oil-soluble film forming agent and pigment that color make-up includes, and the grease of human body skin secretion are dissolved,
The pigment in color make-up is helped to remove and be blended in makeup remover from skin by the action of massage, massage is clear using water after terminating
Wash one's face portion when, the oil-water emulsifiers that contain in makeup remover can be when water be run into, through slight massage effect, Ji Nengxun
Fast spontaneous emulsification forms the very strong oil-in-water emulsion of the mobility disperseed easily in water, so as to by the makeup remover of face's residual
Grease, the grease and pigment that color make-up contains, human body skin secretion grease be dispersed in rinse water and be removed in the lump, so
Just serve the effect of makeup removing and cleaning.
The emulsifying agent of " oil " and " profit two is molten " in makeup remover is the key of removal color make-up, is utilized basic " with the molten oil of oil "
Most grease class color make-up can be dissolved.However, grease used at present is Synthetic Oil and mineral oil, they are dissolving
While color make-up, its powerful degreasing power will also result in dry skin, destroy the barrier function of skin.In addition, makeup remover makes
Emulsifying agent is mostly the synthetic emulsifier containing EO groups, such as the isostearic acid of PEG-20 glycerine three, often contains nitrosamine and two
Oxane equivalent risk material, there are certain excitant and anaphylaxis to skin.Further, present makeup remover is all the strong liquid of mobility
Oil, easily come off from facial surface during use, cause to stain clothes and cause to be lost.
Therefore, it is strong to develop a kind of makeup removing ability, there is moisten effect to skin, it is low using anaphylaxis using rear non-greasy,
The thixotropic makeup remover tool for having certain viscosity is of great significance.
The content of the invention
It is contemplated that it is strong to provide a kind of makeup removing ability, there is moisten effect to skin, using rear non-greasy, use allergy
Property is low, there is thixotropic makeup remover of certain viscosity.
Makeup remover of the present invention, by weight, including following component:
Grease 50-85 parts;
Polyglycerol emulsifiers 5-30 parts;
Phytosterol/docosyl alcohol/octyl decanol lauroyl glutamate ester 0.1-3 parts;
The acid esters 0.1-4 parts of glyceryl behenate/20;
Water 0.1-5 parts;
Antioxidant 0.01-0.2 parts;
Skin conditioning agent 0.01-0.2 parts;
Essence 0.01-1.0 parts;
Plant extraction liquid 0.001-2 parts.
Preferably, the makeup remover, by weight, including following component:
Grease 65-80 parts;
Polyglycerol emulsifiers 15-25 parts;
Phytosterol/docosyl alcohol/octyl decanol lauroyl glutamate ester 0.5-2.5 parts;
The acid esters 1.0-2.5 parts of glyceryl behenate/20;
Water 0.5-2 parts;
Antioxidant 0.01-0.2 parts;
Skin conditioning agent 0.01-0.2 parts;
Essence 0.01-1.0 parts;
Plant extraction liquid 0.001-2 parts.
It is highly preferred that the makeup remover, by weight, including following component:
75.77 parts of grease;
20 parts of Polyglycerol emulsifiers;
Phytosterol/docosyl alcohol/1.0 parts of octyl decanol lauroyl glutamate ester;
Glyceryl behenate/1.5 parts of 20 acid esters;
1 part of water;
0.1 part of antioxidant;
0.01 part of skin conditioning agent;
0.6 part of essence;
0.02 part of plant extraction liquid.
Phytosterol/the docosyl alcohol/octyl decanol lauroyl glutamate ester is by Pidolidone, laurate, plant steroid
Alcohol, 2- octyldodecanols, docosyl alcohol and vitamin E are through obtained by four-step reaction.Phytosterol/docosyl alcohol/the octyl group being prepared
Decyl alcohol lauroyl glutamate ester can effectively strengthen and rebuild the barrier function of skin surface, improve skin moisture content, reduce
Skin TEWL values.
Wherein, phytosterol is to be obtained from corn and soybean by physical purification, has nutritive value height, physiologically active
The features such as strong.Phytosterol has good inoxidizability, has very high permeability to skin, can keep skin surface water
Part, promote skin metabolism, suppress scytitis, can anti-sunburn, skin aging.Octyl decanol lauroyl glutamate ester
It is a kind of whole plant acidic amino acid derivative(Carboxylic acid amide esters), have and constructed with ceramide identical, tabular liquid crystal structure can be formed
Make.Long-term use can improve the tabular liquid crystal configuration of cuticula, improve cuticlar water component, there is obvious suppression effect to TEWL
Fruit, so as to be obviously improved dermatoglyph, anti-aging effects.
Wherein, docosyl alcohol, as docosanol, have the function that good skin care, are commonly used for moistening in cosmetics
Skin agent and viscosity stabiliser.
The acid esters of the glyceryl behenate/20 is the oligoester being made up of behenic acid, arachic acid and last of the ten Heavenly stems glycerine;Fusing point
For 60-70 DEG C, with good treatability during fusing.Gelation efficiency is respectively provided with for the finish extremely in broad range, can
Formation has thixotropic gel(Can be variant according to its different character of oil kind).The acid esters of the glyceryl behenate/20
Thixotropic oleogel can be formed with grease, but this denseness is thixotropic, therefore the oil product that can solve commonly to remove ornaments and formal dress makes
The problem of used time mobility is too strong, and material body easily drips, while the patch as the shusu unique when facial skin is massaged can be provided
Skin is experienced.
The grease is oil-soluble grease, selected from hydro carbons, fatty alcohol, aliphatic acid, fatty acid ester, fatty alcohol ether, glyceride
One or more in class, silicone oil, silicon wax;Preferably cetanol ethylhexoate, rice bran oil, pentaerythrite four(Thylhexoic acid)
Ester, the heptanoate of neopentyl glycol two, jojoba seed oil, myristic acid, wheat-germ oil, pentaerythrite four(Thylhexoic acid)Ester, angle
It is one or more of in shark alkane.
The polyglycereol and aliphatic acid of the Polyglycerol emulsifiers are plant origins, fool proof to human body, biology drop
Solution property is good, can be used as food additives, while have splendid performance of keeping humidity to skin.Selected from the oleate of polyglycereol -2, gather
It is the isostearate of glycerine -2, Natrulon H-10 linoleate, the isostearate of polyglycereol -2 three, the oleate of polyglycereol -4, poly-
The isostearate of glycerine -10, Natrulon H-10 oleate, Natrulon H-10 diisopstearate, the oleic acid of Natrulon H-10 three
Ester, the isostearate of Natrulon H-10 five, the oleate of Natrulon H-10 five, Natrulon H-10 dioleate, the sesquialter of polyglycereol -2
Caprylate, the laurate of polyglycereol -6, the myristinate of polyglycereol -6, Natrulon H-10 myristinate, polyglycereol -6 two
Decylate, the myristinate of Natrulon H-10 two, the caprylate of polyglycereol -6, the caprylate of polyglycereol -6, the oleate of polyglycereol -5
In one or more.Using plant origin Polyglycerol emulsifiers as makeup remover of the present invention surfactant, greatly
The excitant to skin is reduced, while significantly improves the moisture-retaining capacity of skin.
The one kind of the antioxidant in butylated hydroxytoluene, tertiary butylated hydroquinone, vitamin E, tocopherol acetate
Or several, preferably vitamin E/tocopherol;The skin conditioning agent is selected from bisabolol, fanesol, two(Lauramide
Glutamine)Sodium lysinate, propane diols, glycerine, butanediol, pentanediol, menthanol lactic acid ester, menthol, ascorbic acid four are different
One or more in palmitate.
The plant extraction liquid is selected from aloe barbadensis Miller(ALOE BARBADENSIS)Leaf extract, hamamelis
(HAMAMELIS VIRGINIANA)Extract, glycyrrhiza glabra(GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA)Root extract, jujube(ZIZYPHUS
JUJUBA)Berry extract, Artemisia capillaris(ARTEMISIA CAPILLARIS)Flower extract, radix scutellariae(SCUTELLARIA
BAICALENSIS)Root extract, mulberry(MORUS ALBA)Root extract, purslane(PORTULACA OLERACEA)Extract,
Cynara scolymus(CYNARA SCOLYMUS)Leaf extract, satsuma orange(CITRUS UNSHIU)Pericarp extract, artemia(ARTEMIA)
Extract, trembling poplar(POPULUS TREMULOIDES)Bark extract, fragrant citrus(CITRUS JUNOS)Berry extract, Huang
Tiller(PHELLODENDRON AMURENSE)Bark extract, white willow(SALIX ALBA)Bark extract, white fungus(TREMELLA
FUCIFORMIS)Extract, soapberry(SAPINDUS MUKUROSSI)Pericarp extract, multiflora rose(ROSA
MULTIFLORA)Berry extract, rosemary(ROSMARINUS OFFICINALIS)Leaf extract, emblic(PHYLLANTHUS
EMBLICA)Berry extract four-o'clock(MIRABILIS JALAPA)Extract, ginger(ZINGIBER OFFICINALE)Root extracts
Thing, glycyrrhiza glabra(GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA)Root extract, starfish tap algae(CLADOSIPHON NOVAE-
CALEDONIAE)Extract, beet(BETA VULGARIS)Root extract, Balkan lettuce tongue(HABERLEA
RHODOPENSIS)Leaf extract, lichee(LITCHI CHINENSIS)Pericarp extract, common milfoil(ACHILLEA
MILLEFOLIUM)Extract, Crithmum maritimum(CRITHMUM MARITIMUM)Extract, northern sea-tangle(LAMINARIA
HYPERBOREA)Extract, Antarctic Continent clump stalk algae(DURVILLEA ANTARTICA)Extract, Saponaria officinalis(SAPONARIA
OFFICINALIS)Extract, rye(SECALE CEREALE)Seed extract, Mel extract, golden yellow chamomile
(CHRYSANTHELLUM INDICUM)Extract, European horse-chestnut(AESCULUS HIPPOCASTANUM)It is seed extract, white
Flower yellow chamomile(ANTHEMIS NOBILIS)Flower extract, plum(PRUNUS MUME) berry extract, Cymbidium hookerianum(CYMBIDIUM
GRANDIFLORUM)Flower extract, Nasturtium officinale(NASTURTIUM OFFICINALE)Extract, chlorella(CHLORELLA
VULGARIS)Extract, pomegranate (PUNICA GRANATUM) berry extract, wedge base sea-tangle(LAMINARIA OCHROLEUCA)
Extract, Balkan lettuce tongue(HABERLEA RHODOPENSIS)Leaf extract, great Hua cactuses(CEREUS
GRANDIFLORUS)Flower extract, daisy(BELLIS PERENNIS)One or more in flower extract.
The invention also discloses the preparation method of above-mentioned makeup remover, comprise the following steps:
According to proportioning weigh grease, Polyglycerol emulsifiers, phytosterol/docosyl alcohol/octyl decanol lauroyl glutamate ester,
The acid esters of glyceryl behenate/20, antioxidant, skin conditioning agent, at 70-75 DEG C mixing be sufficiently stirred 5-10 minutes, directly
To the liquid of formation stable homogeneous, and 50-55 DEG C is cooled under agitation, add the water weighed according to proportioning, essence, plant and carry
Liquid is taken, insulated and stirred 5-10 minutes, thermal-insulating filling, produces makeup remover.
Compared with prior art, the present invention has following excellent effect:
The present invention is by by phytosterol/docosyl alcohol of certain content/octyl decanol lauroyl glutamate ester, certain content
The acid esters of glyceryl behenate/20 be added in the Polyglycerol emulsifiers and grease of plant origin, and be aided with certain content
Antioxidant, skin conditioning agent, water, essence, plant extraction liquid, by the coordinated of each component, have well as overall
Makeup removing effect, there is provided there is excellent moisturizing effect but non-greasy after use, it is clear with skin that skin moisturizing degree can be reached
The balance of refreshing degree, and will not cause allergic and stimulate, while there is thixotropy, so as to provide when facial skin is massaged
Patch skin impression as unique shusu.
Embodiment
The present invention is further illustrated below by embodiment, following examples are the preferable embodiment party of the present invention
Formula, but embodiments of the present invention are not limited by following embodiments.
The raw material such as table 1 that embodiments of the invention and comparative example use, but it is not limited only to these raw materials:
The stock chart of table 1
Embodiment 1-7 and comparative example 1-2:The preparation of makeup remover
Proportioning according to table 2 weighs grease, Polyglycerol emulsifiers, phytosterol/docosyl alcohol/octyl decanol lauroyl paddy ammonia
The acid esters of acid esters, glyceryl behenate/20, antioxidant, skin conditioning agent, at 70-75 DEG C mixing be sufficiently stirred 5-10 points
Clock, until forming the liquid of stable homogeneous, and 50-55 DEG C is cooled under agitation, add water, the perfume (or spice) for matching and weighing according to table 2
Essence, plant extraction liquid, insulated and stirred 5-10 minutes, thermal-insulating filling, produce makeup remover.
The embodiment 1-7 of table 2 and comparative example 1-2 each group distribution ratio(Parts by weight)
Preservation challenge test, the test of sensitive skin are carried out to embodiment 1-7 and comparative example 1-2 makeup remover, using moist
Spend contrast test, tested using rear fat content contrast test and thixotropy:
First, preservation challenge test is done to embodiment 1-7 and comparative example 1-2 makeup remover:It is satisfied by USP 32 to require, product
There is good antiseptic effect.
2nd, sensitive skin test is done to embodiment 1-7 and comparative example 1-2 makeup remover:
1)Test method and number:Cutaneous safety assessment is carried out using the test method of normal individual trial, tests number 40
People.The people of its septum reset sensitivity skin quality is more than 30 people.
2)Subject selects:The healthy women subject at 18 to 35 years old ages;
3)Product application method and pot life:By product operation instruction, please first shaken up before use, it is the dry hand of this product, wet
Hand all can be used, better under dry hand state.
【Removal eye lip Cosmetics】
Appropriate makeup remover is taken in cotton pads, is closed one's eyes, is lightly spread at eye color make-up about 20 seconds, from top to bottom wiped clean;
Appropriate makeup remover is taken in cotton pads, being lightly spread in lip about 10 seconds, from labial angle toward middle wiped clean.
【Removal face color make-up】
Appropriate makeup remover is taken in the centre of the palm;
Makeup remover is uniformly applied to face and neck, is softly massaged with finger pulp about 60 seconds, makeup remover is fully dissolved color make-up;
Both hands are bedewed with warm water, continue massage about 30 seconds, until makeup remover emulsification completely is soft and smooth emulsion;
Face is rinsed well with a large amount of warm water;
With cotton pads Qing Shigan faces moisture, and check color make-up dirt whether removal is clean, without secondary cleaning.
4)Observing time:
Observe 4 weeks altogether.Subject is before research is included(0th day), the 7th day after Clinical practice, the 14th day after Clinical practice
With the 28th day after Clinical practice, carried out 4 follow-ups altogether.
5)Sensitiveness skin quality selection standard:
Subjective assessment:
Head examines day doctor to subject's recipient site to weather (cold and dry), skin care product, cleaning agent, weaving
The sensitiveness of product and abrasive articles is scored respectively:0 point is insensitive;1 point is sometimes sensitive;2 points are sensitivity;By 5
Item rating is added, and total score is sensitive more than 4 points of persons.
Such as:Patient's A readmes are insensitive to weather(0 point), it is sometimes sensitive to skin care product(1 point), it is quick to cleaning agent
Sense(2 points), it is sometimes sensitive to textile(1 point), it is sometimes sensitive to abrasive articles(1 point);Five additions:0+1+2+1+1=5 point,
Therefore, it is determined that it is sensitive.
Lactic acid irritant test:
Selection semar technique is tested, and 10% lactic acid is applied into nasolabial groove and any side cheek at room temperature, existed respectively
2.5 and 5 minutes sensitivity responses to subject carry out 4 grades of evaluations, and then will score addition twice, and score value is more than 3 for sensitivity
Property skin.
0 point is without shouting pain;1 point is slight shouting pain;2 points are moderate shouting pain;3 points are severe shouting pain
Subjective assessment is more than 4 points or lactic acid irritant test is positive, all can determine that as sensitive.
6)Safety evaluation:
It is especially sensitive to face skin by normal individual trial experiment come viewing test product to human body skin security
Person.When subject pays a return visit, any bad thing that subject is occurred during test products are used carefully is inquired, checked and record
Part, including the performances of adverse events, time of origin, treatment measures and lapse to, and to adverse events and the relation for using product
Judge.
The adverse events order of severity is judged by following grade III Standard:
Slightly-subject can endure, and be not required to especially handle, do not influence the normal life of subject;
Moderate-subject is difficult to endure, it is necessary to disable product or do specially treated, influences the normal life of subject;
Severe-obstruction normal life, product need to be disabled immediately or do emergent management.
The versions in 2015 that skin adverse reaction classification is issued according to the Ministry of Public Health《Cosmetics safety technical specification》Specified in
Normal individual trial tests skin adverse reaction grade scale to judge:
0 grade(Dermoanergy);
1 grade(There is faint erythema in skin);
2 grades(There is erythema, infiltration and papule in skin);
3 grades(There is erythema, oedema, papule and blister in skin);
4 grades(There is erythema, oedema and bleb in skin)
Adverse events and the criterion of test products relation:
A is certainly reasonable using test products and reacting generating time order, stops using test products reaction to stop, or fast
Speed mitigates or taken a turn for the better, and reuses test products reaction and reproduces, while has documents and materials evidence, and removes other Confounding Factor shadows
Ring;
B is reasonable most likely with test products and reacting generating time order, stops using test products reaction to stop, or
It is rapid to mitigate or take a turn for the better, other factorses influence can be excluded substantially;
C may use test products and reacting generating time in close relations, but cause the product more than one of adverse reaction,
Or there are other factorses can not be excluded;
D unrelated may be occurred using test products and adverse reaction, the time it is far, reaction performance with it is known
The adverse reaction of cosmetics is misfitted;
E data to be evaluated is not complete, is revalued after waiting updates, or causality is difficult to come to a conclusion, and lacks documents and materials
Evidence;
F can not evaluate that lacuna is too many, and causality is difficult to come to a conclusion, and data can not supplement.
7)Test result:
Subject's ordinary circumstance:The age of selected subject between 20 years old to 34 years old, is selected in 40 subjects altogether, wherein
The people of women 40, the people of male 0, average age 24.98 years old, complete cost study.In selected subject, it is sensitiveness flesh to have 30 people
Skin, the wherein persons of dividing of lactic acid irritant test score value > 3 are 30 people, and 7 people have to be produced using cosmetic allergic contact dermatitis history, 7 people to daily washing
Product are sensitive, and 4 people are sensitive to climate change or Exposure to Sunlight, and 7 people are to sensitive containing clothings such as wool, cotton, terylene, and 4 people are to dietary fibres
Product are sensitive, and 0 people is sensitive to metal objects.
Safety evaluation:40 subjects(The wherein sensitive people of skin person 30)Normal individual trial experimental study in 4 weeks, without it is any not
Good reaction.Product is suitable to sensitive skin.
3rd, to embodiment 1-7 and comparative example 1-2 makeup remover, and certain extraordinary commercially available makeup removing oil product of sales volume
FXXXX FC are carried out using moist degree and fat content contrast test:
Pilot project:
Skin moisture content measuring(Moisture of skin tester Corneometer CM825 are used to detect keratoderma
Water content.Corneometer values are higher, illustrate that keratoderma water content is higher);
Percutaneous water loss test(Skin water loss test probe Tewameter TM300 are used to detect skin warp
Epidermis percentage of water loss.TEWL values are higher, illustrate that skin barrier function is poorer);
Skin oil and fat content measuring(Skin oil and fat content measuring probe Sebumeter, for detecting the grease of skin surface
Content.Moisture of skin is easy to run off when skin oil and fat content is too low, and skin can feel greasy and not relax during skin oil and fat too high levels
Clothes);
Experimental condition:
1)Subject characteristics:30;
2)Recipient site:Surveyed in the forearm of left and right;
Test environment:20 DEG C~25 DEG C of temperature, humidity 45% ~ 65%.
3)Conceptual design:
( 1)First have to clean test position with clear water;
( 2)Sat quietly in constant-temperature constant-humidity environment 30 minutes, skin is reached a poised state;
( 3)To different 3cm × 3cm regions elder generation blank testing values, then correspond to and smear test sample, 0.2g amounts are being advised
Determine in region, after 30 seconds are massaged in a manner of looping, add 0.2 clear water emulsification massage 30 seconds;
( 4)Rinsed well with clear water, wiped with cotton pads;
( 5)By testing time section test data, and make a record;
4)Result of the test
( 1)Water content is tested
The subjects skin's water content test data record sheet (temperature of table 3:20.1 DEG C humidity:58%)
( 2)Percutaneous water loss test
The percutaneous water loss test data record sheet (temperature of the subject of table 4:20.1 DEG C humidity:58%)
( 3)Skin oil and fat content measuring
The subjects skin's fat content test data record sheet (temperature of table 5:20.1 DEG C humidity:58%)
From the comparison of the experimental data of table 3- tables 5:
1. after using the makeup remover of embodiment 1 and FXXXX FC makeup removers, according to data above it can be found that using implementation
The moisture content of skin of the makeup remover of example 1 is slightly above the skin using FXXXX FC makeup removers, and the percutaneous water loss of skin also will
It is slightly better than using the skin after FXXXX FC makeup removers, in summary, the makeup remover moistening effect of embodiment 1 is better than FXXXX
FC makeup removers.
2. after the makeup remover using embodiment 1-7, moisture content of skin scatters and disappears in normal level, moisture of skin after testing
TEWL values are normal or health, normal using rear skin oil and fat content separately from the point of view of fat content data, in summary, are made
After makeup remover with embodiment 1-7, skin moisturizing but non-greasy, the balance of skin moisturizing degree and skin refreshing degree can be reached,
Meets the needs of most consumers are to makeup removing oil product.
3. after comparative example 1-2 makeup remover, from data, this two makeup remover can not reach skin moisturizing degree with
And the balance of skin refreshing degree.Wherein comparative example 1 is but partially greasy using rear skin moisturizing, and the grease of comparative example 2 is moderate but to be dried partially,
This two makeup remover use feeling is poor, it is impossible to meets requirement of the consumer to oil product of removing ornaments and formal dress.
In summary, embodiment 1-7 makeup remover, moist but non-greasy, can reach skin moisturizing degree and skin after use
The balance that skin is clearly spent, meets the needs of most consumers are to makeup removing oil product.
4th, to embodiment 1-7 and comparative example 1-2 makeup remover, and certain extraordinary commercially available makeup removing oil product of sales volume
FXXXX FC carry out thixotropy test:
Use instrument:NDJ-1 type viscosimeters
Conceptual design:Sample is taken, respectively using No. 4 rotors, and adjusts different rotating speeds, is being started by viscosimeter using code
Its viscosity data is read after 1 minute;
Result of the test is as follows:
The sample of table 6 and certain extraordinary commercially available makeup remover product F XXXX FC viscosity tests data logger (material of sales volume
Temperature: 20.1℃)
From the comparison of the experimental data of table 6:
Embodiment 1-7 sample itselfs have certain viscosity, and more obvious than commercially available product higher, and it is stronger to paste skin during use, more just
In use;Sample is using same rotor, but during different rotating speeds, viscosity is rendered obvious by the lower trend of the bigger viscosity of rotating speed, material
Body has an obvious thixotropy, is reduced through massaging viscosity during use, while can provide the impression of the patch skin as shusu.
Claims (12)
- A kind of 1. makeup remover, it is characterised in that by weight, including following component:Grease 50-85 parts;Polyglycerol emulsifiers 5-30 parts;Phytosterol/docosyl alcohol/octyl decanol lauroyl glutamate ester 0.1-3 parts;The acid esters 0.1-4 parts of glyceryl behenate/20;Water 0.1-5 parts;Antioxidant 0.01-0.2 parts;Skin conditioning agent 0.01-0.2 parts;Essence 0.01-1.0 parts;Plant extraction liquid 0.001-2 parts.
- 2. makeup remover according to claim 1, it is characterised in that the makeup remover, by weight, including such as the following group Point:Grease 65-80 parts;Polyglycerol emulsifiers 15-25 parts;Phytosterol/docosyl alcohol/octyl decanol lauroyl glutamate ester 0.5-2.5 parts;The acid esters 1.0-2.5 parts of glyceryl behenate/20;Water 0.5-2 parts;Antioxidant 0.01-0.2 parts;Skin conditioning agent 0.01-0.2 parts;Essence 0.01-1.0 parts;Plant extraction liquid 0.001-2 parts.
- 3. makeup remover according to claim 2, it is characterised in that the makeup remover, by weight, including such as the following group Point:75.77 parts of grease;20 parts of Polyglycerol emulsifiers;Phytosterol/docosyl alcohol/1.0 parts of octyl decanol lauroyl glutamate ester;Glyceryl behenate/1.5 parts of 20 acid esters;1 part of water;0.1 part of antioxidant;0.01 part of skin conditioning agent;0.6 part of essence;0.02 part of plant extraction liquid.
- 4. according to the makeup remover described in claim any one of 1-3, it is characterised in that the phytosterol/docosyl alcohol/octyl group last of the ten Heavenly stems Alcohol lauroyl glutamate ester is through four by Pidolidone, laurate, phytosterol, 2- octyldodecanols, docosyl alcohol and vitamin E Step reaction gained.
- 5. according to the makeup remover described in claim any one of 1-3, it is characterised in that the acid esters of the glyceryl behenate/20 It is the oligoester being made up of behenic acid, arachic acid and last of the ten Heavenly stems glycerine;Fusing point is 60-70 DEG C.
- 6. according to the makeup remover described in claim any one of 1-3, it is characterised in that the grease is oil-soluble grease, is selected from One or more in hydro carbons, fatty alcohol, aliphatic acid, fatty acid ester, fatty alcohol ether, glyceride type, silicone oil, silicon wax.
- 7. makeup remover according to claim 6, it is characterised in that the grease is selected from cetanol ethylhexoate, rice bran Oil, pentaerythrite four(Thylhexoic acid)Ester, the heptanoate of neopentyl glycol two, jojoba seed oil, myristic acid, wheat-germ oil, angle It is one or more of in shark alkane.
- 8. according to the makeup remover described in claim any one of 1-3, it is characterised in that the Polyglycerol emulsifiers are selected from poly- sweet It is oily -2 oleates, the isostearate of polyglycereol -2, Natrulon H-10 linoleate, the isostearate of polyglycereol -2 three, poly- sweet It is oily -4 oleates, Natrulon H-10 isostearate, Natrulon H-10 oleate, Natrulon H-10 diisopstearate, poly- sweet Oily -10 trioleates, the isostearate of Natrulon H-10 five, the oleate of Natrulon H-10 five, Natrulon H-10 dioleate, The sesquialter of polyglycereol -2 caprylate, the laurate of polyglycereol -6, the myristinate of polyglycereol -6, Natrulon H-10 myristic acid It is ester, the dicaprate of polyglycereol -6, the myristinate of Natrulon H-10 two, the caprylate of polyglycereol -6, the caprylate of polyglycereol -6, poly- One or more in the oleate of glycerine -5.
- 9. according to the makeup remover described in claim any one of 1-3, it is characterised in that the antioxidant is selected from butylhydroxy first One or more in benzene, tertiary butylated hydroquinone, vitamin E, tocopherol acetate;The skin conditioning agent be selected from bisabolol, Fanesol, two(Lauramide glutamine)Sodium lysinate, propane diols, glycerine, butanediol, pentanediol, menthanol lactic acid ester, One or more in menthol, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate.
- 10. makeup remover according to claim 9, it is characterised in that the antioxidant is vitamin E/tocopherol.
- 11. according to the makeup remover described in claim any one of 1-3, it is characterised in that the plant extraction liquid is selected from Curacao Aloe(ALOE BARBADENSIS)Leaf extract, hamamelis(HAMAMELIS VIRGINIANA)Extract, light fruit are sweet Grass(GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA)Root extract, jujube(ZIZYPHUS JUJUBA)Berry extract, Artemisia capillaris(ARTEMISIA CAPILLARIS)Flower extract, radix scutellariae(SCUTELLARIA BAICALENSIS)Root extract, mulberry(MORUS ALBA)Root carries Take thing, purslane(PORTULACA OLERACEA)Extract, cynara scolymus(CYNARA SCOLYMUS)Leaf extract, satsuma orange (CITRUS UNSHIU)Pericarp extract, artemia(ARTEMIA)Extract, trembling poplar(POPULUS TREMULOIDES)Tree Bark extract, fragrant citrus(CITRUS JUNOS)Berry extract, amur cork tree(PHELLODENDRON AMURENSE)It is bark extract, white Willow(SALIX ALBA)Bark extract, white fungus(TREMELLA FUCIFORMIS)Extract, soapberry(SAPINDUS MUKUROSSI)Pericarp extract, multiflora rose(ROSA MULTIFLORA)Berry extract, rosemary(ROSMARINUS OFFICINALIS)Leaf extract, emblic(PHYLLANTHUS EMBLICA)Berry extract four-o'clock(MIRABILIS JALAPA)Extract, ginger(ZINGIBER OFFICINALE)Root extract, glycyrrhiza glabra(GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA)Root Extract, starfish tap algae(CLADOSIPHON NOVAE-CALEDONIAE)Extract, beet(BETA VULGARIS)Root carries Take thing, Balkan lettuce tongue(HABERLEA RHODOPENSIS)Leaf extract, lichee(LITCHI CHINENSIS)Pericarp extracts Thing, common milfoil(ACHILLEA MILLEFOLIUM)Extract, Crithmum maritimum(CRITHMUM MARITIMUM)Extract, north sea Band(LAMINARIA HYPERBOREA)Extract, Antarctic Continent clump stalk algae(DURVILLEA ANTARTICA)Extract, Saponaria officinalis (SAPONARIA OFFICINALIS)Extract, rye(SECALE CEREALE)Seed extract, Mel extract, golden yellow ocean Camomile(CHRYSANTHELLUM INDICUM)Extract, European horse-chestnut(AESCULUS HIPPOCASTANUM)Seed extracts Thing, Roman chamomile(ANTHEMIS NOBILIS)Flower extract, plum(PRUNUS MUME) berry extract, Cymbidium hookerianum (CYMBIDIUM GRANDIFLORUM)Flower extract, Nasturtium officinale(NASTURTIUM OFFICINALE)Extract, chlorella (CHLORELLA VULGARIS)Extract, pomegranate (PUNICA GRANATUM) berry extract, wedge base sea-tangle(LAMINARIA OCHROLEUCA)Extract, Balkan lettuce tongue(HABERLEA RHODOPENSIS)Leaf extract, great Hua cactuses(CEREUS GRANDIFLORUS)Flower extract, daisy(BELLIS PERENNIS)One or more in flower extract.
- 12. the preparation method of a kind of makeup remover as described in claim any one of 1-11, it is characterised in that including following step Suddenly:Grease, Polyglycerol emulsifiers, phytosterol/docosyl alcohol/octyl decanol lauroyl glutamate ester, glycerine are weighed according to proportioning The acid esters of behenate/20, antioxidant, skin conditioning agent, mixing is sufficiently stirred 5-10 minutes at 70-75 DEG C, until shape Into the liquid of stable homogeneous, and 50-55 DEG C is cooled under agitation, add the water weighed according to proportioning, essence, plant extract Liquid, insulated and stirred 5-10 minutes, thermal-insulating filling, produce makeup remover.
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