CN111826950B - 一种粗纺四面弹面料的后整理工艺 - Google Patents

一种粗纺四面弹面料的后整理工艺 Download PDF

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CN111826950B
CN111826950B CN202010460102.7A CN202010460102A CN111826950B CN 111826950 B CN111826950 B CN 111826950B CN 202010460102 A CN202010460102 A CN 202010460102A CN 111826950 B CN111826950 B CN 111826950B
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CN111826950A (zh
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吴栋标
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Jiangyin Xingwu Wool Fabric Technology Co ltd
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种粗纺四面弹面料的后整理工艺，包括依次进行的坯布准备→预定型→低弹性处理→皂洗→缝边→缩呢→检验→定型→剪毛→蒸呢→检验、包装；所述低弹性处理包括将坯布依次通过甲酸熏蒸、体积百分比为0.1‑1％的醋酸水溶液喷洒浸润、超声处理、等离子处理、碱处理，其中醋酸溶液与坯布的重量比为0.1‑1:5。通过该整理工艺整理的羊毛混纺弹性面料收缩一致均匀不易起皱；面料表面绒毛密而均匀，具有良好的弹性稳定性和保暖性。

Description

一种粗纺四面弹面料的后整理工艺
技术领域
本发明涉及面料后整理技术领域，具体涉及一种粗纺四面弹面料的后整理工艺。
背景技术
粗纺羊毛四面弹面料一般是通过在经、纬向均采用羊毛与涤纶等弹性纤维混纺毛条织造而成。涤纶等纤维与羊毛纤维的弹性基本持平，含有涤纶纤维的羊毛混纺弹性面料经过高温预定型后，涤纶发生粘化，弹性降低，但是羊毛的弹性在经过预定型后不发生变化，因此会造成羊毛混纺弹性面料中的弹性纤维与羊毛纤维之间的弹性收缩不一致，或者羊毛纤维在收缩时牵拉弹性纤维移动，由于不是弹性纤维自主收缩，会发生弹性纤维收缩不均匀，造成面料表面不平整，发生褶皱，面料外观较差。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于，克服现有技术中存在的缺陷，提供一种粗纺四面弹面料的后整理工艺，通过该整理工艺整理的羊毛混纺弹性面料收缩一致均匀不易起皱；面料表面绒毛密而均匀，具有良好的弹性稳定性和保暖性。
为实现上述目的，本发明的技术方案是设计一种粗纺四面弹面料的后整理工艺，包括依次进行的坯布准备→预定型→低弹性处理→皂洗→缝边→缩呢→检验→定型→剪毛→蒸呢→检验、包装；所述低弹性处理包括将坯布依次通过甲酸熏蒸、体积百分比为0.1-1％的醋酸水溶液喷洒浸润、超声处理、等离子处理、碱处理，其中醋酸溶液与坯布的重量比为0.1-1:5。
本发明将坯布经过甲酸熏蒸和醋酸溶液超声处理相结合，使正、副皮质层的细胞均发生旋转扭曲，从而在羊毛纤维表面在长度方向上形成正皮质层-副皮质层交替排列的螺旋形状，部分正皮质层细胞和副皮质层细胞均由于皮质层的旋转被部分隐藏，由于正皮质层的量大于副皮质层的量，因此，在旋转扭曲的过程中，正皮质层细胞大量隐藏而副皮质层被大量暴露，再经过等离子刻蚀处理，使含量较低的副皮质层细胞被刻蚀和损失的量较多，副皮质层细胞含量降低，面料再经过碱处理，使正皮质层膨胀并转向卷曲波的外侧，恢复双边排列结构；由于副皮质层细胞含量降低，从而使羊毛纤维的弹性降低，羊毛纤维与被高温定型破坏的弹性纤维的弹性再一次趋向一致，使面料经过低弹处理后不易发生褶皱；同时，弹性降低的羊毛纤维的弯曲波的波宽增加，还进一步增加的羊毛纤维的缩绒性，因此，低弹性处理设置在缩呢工序之前，使该羊毛混纺弹性面料绒毛紧密、保暖性增强、外观优美，手感丰厚柔软。
优选的技术方案为，所述甲酸熏蒸的过程为，将甲酸加热至110-120℃，密封空间熏蒸30-40min，熏蒸甲酸冷凝回流再利用。密封空间甲酸熏蒸，减少甲酸的用量；甲酸冷凝回流，重复回收甲酸，并保持甲酸的浓度。
进一步优选的技术方案为，所述等离子处理过程为，将坯布展开且平直的经过等离子体反应腔处理1-10min，真空度为30-40pa，功率为50-100w。
进一步优选的技术方案为，所述碱处理的过程为，将坯布冷堆置于密闭氨气气腔内常温，熏蒸时间为5-10min。采用氨气冷堆的弱碱处理，减少碱处理对正皮质层细胞的腐蚀和损失，从而避免降低羊毛纤维的稳定性和持久性。
进一步优选的技术方案为，在氨气气腔冷堆之前还包括将坯布进行清洗、脱水并喷洒去离子水浸润，其中去离子水与坯布的重量比为1-2:5。氨气冷堆处理前将坯布进行清洗，并采用去离子水喷洒浸润，使氨气与坯布上的去离子水结合，形成氨水，能够最大限度的将氨气截留在面料表面和内部，使氨水与面料充分接触，提高碱处理的效率，减少处理时间。
进一步优选的技术方案为，所述预定型包括在温度180℃-190℃，车速10-15m/min的条件下烘焙定型。
所述蒸呢的具体条件为蒸汽压力为0.5-0.6Mpa，内向外放气60-120s，外向内放气90-120s，抽冷时间为90-150s。
本发明的优点和有益效果在于：通过该整理工艺整理的羊毛混纺弹性面料收缩一致均匀不易起皱；面料表面绒毛密而均匀，具有良好的弹性稳定性和保暖性。本发明将坯布经过甲酸熏蒸和醋酸溶液超声处理相结合，使正、副皮质层的细胞均发生旋转扭曲，从而在羊毛纤维表面在长度方向上形成正皮质层-副皮质层交替排列的螺旋形状，再经过等离子刻蚀处理，使副皮质层细胞含量降低，由于副皮质层细胞含量降低，从而使羊毛纤维的弹性降低，羊毛纤维与被高温定型破坏的弹性纤维的弹性再一次趋向一致，使面料经过低弹处理后不易发生褶皱；同时，由于弹性降低的羊毛纤维的弯曲波的波宽增加，进一步增加的羊毛纤维的缩绒性，因此，低弹性处理设置在缩呢工序之前，使该羊毛混纺弹性面料绒毛紧密、保暖性增强、外观优美，手感丰厚柔软；采用氨气冷堆的弱碱处理，减少碱处理对正皮质层细胞的腐蚀和损失，从而避免降低羊毛纤维的稳定性和持久性。
具体实施方式
下面结合实施例，对本发明的具体实施方式作进一步描述。以下实施例仅用于更加清楚地说明本发明的技术方案，而不能以此来限制本发明的保护范围。
实施例1
本发明是一种粗纺四面弹面料的后整理工艺，包括依次进行的坯布准备→预定型→低弹性处理→皂洗→缝边→缩呢→检验→定型→剪毛→蒸呢→检验、包装；所述低弹性处理包括将坯布依次通过甲酸熏蒸、去离子水清洗、脱水、体积百分比为0.5％的醋酸水溶液喷洒浸润、超声处理、等离子处理、清洗、脱水并喷洒去离子水浸润、碱处理，清洗、脱水。
所述醋酸溶液与坯布的重量比为1:10，去离子水与坯布的重量比为1.5:5。
所述甲酸熏蒸的过程为，将甲酸加热至115℃，密封空间熏蒸35min，熏蒸甲酸冷凝回流再利用。
所述等离子处理过程为，将坯布展开且平直的经过等离子体反应腔处理5min，真空度为35pa，功率为75w。
所述碱处理的过程为，将坯布冷堆置于密闭氨气气腔内常温，熏蒸时间为15min。
所述预定型包括在温度185℃，车速13m/min的条件下烘焙定型。
所述蒸呢的具体条件为蒸汽压力为0.55Mpa，内向外放气90s，外向内放气105s，抽冷时间为120s。
实施例2
实施例2与实施例1的区别在于，所述醋酸溶液与坯布的重量比为1:25，去离子水与坯布的重量比为1.2:5。
所述甲酸熏蒸的过程为，将甲酸加热至112℃，密封空间熏蒸33min，熏蒸甲酸冷凝回流再利用。
所述等离子处理过程为，将坯布展开且平直的经过等离子体反应腔处理3min，真空度为32pa，功率为60w。
所述碱处理的过程为，将坯布冷堆置于密闭氨气气腔内常温，熏蒸时间为12min。
所述预定型包括在温度183℃，车速12m/min的条件下烘焙定型。
所述蒸呢的具体条件为蒸汽压力为0.52Mpa，内向外放气75s，外向内放气100s，抽冷时间为100s。
实施例3
实施例3与实施例1的区别在于，所述醋酸溶液与坯布的重量比为4:25，去离子水与坯布的重量比为9:25。
所述甲酸熏蒸的过程为，将甲酸加热至118℃，密封空间熏蒸37min，熏蒸甲酸冷凝回流再利用。
所述等离子处理过程为，将坯布展开且平直的经过等离子体反应腔处理8min，真空度为37pa，功率为90w。
所述碱处理的过程为，将坯布冷堆置于密闭氨气气腔内常温，熏蒸时间为18min。
所述预定型包括在温度188℃，车速14m/min的条件下烘焙定型。
所述蒸呢的具体条件为蒸汽压力为0.58Mpa，内向外放气105s，外向内放气110s，抽冷时间为135s。
以上所述仅是本发明的优选实施方式，应当指出，对于本技术领域的普通技术人员来说，在不脱离本发明技术原理的前提下，还可以做出若干改进和润饰，这些改进和润饰也应视为本发明的保护范围。

Claims (6)

1.一种粗纺四面弹面料的后整理工艺，其特征在于，包括依次进行的坯布准备→预定型→低弹性处理→皂洗→缝边→缩呢→检验→定型→剪毛→蒸呢→检验、包装；所述低弹性处理包括将坯布依次通过甲酸熏蒸、体积百分比为0.1-1%的醋酸水溶液喷洒浸润、超声处理、等离子处理、碱处理，其中醋酸溶液与坯布的重量比为0.1-1:5；所述碱处理的过程为，将坯布冷堆置于密闭氨气气腔内常温，熏蒸时间为10-20min。
2.根据权利要求1所述的粗纺四面弹面料的后整理工艺，其特征在于，所述甲酸熏蒸的过程为，将甲酸加热至110-120℃，密封空间熏蒸30-40min，熏蒸甲酸冷凝回流再利用。
3.根据权利要求2所述的粗纺四面弹面料的后整理工艺，其特征在于，所述等离子处理过程为，将坯布展开且平直的经过等离子体反应腔处理1-10min，真空度为30-40Pa ，功率为50-100W 。
4.根据权利要求3所述的粗纺四面弹面料的后整理工艺，其特征在于，在氨气气腔冷堆之前还包括将坯布进行清洗、脱水并喷洒去离子水浸润，其中去离子水与坯布的重量比为1-2:5。
5.根据权利要求4所述的粗纺四面弹面料的后整理工艺，其特征在于，所述预定型包括在温度180℃-190℃，车速10-15m/min的条件下烘焙定型。
6.根据权利要求5所述的粗纺四面弹面料的后整理工艺，其特征在于，所述蒸呢的具体条件为蒸汽压力为0.5-0.6MPa ，内向外放气60-120s，外向内放气90-120s，抽冷时间为90-150s。
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