CN111118898A - Lf型天丝/圣麻/合金锗纤维混纺接触凉感多功能衬衫面料 - Google Patents

Lf型天丝/圣麻/合金锗纤维混纺接触凉感多功能衬衫面料 Download PDF

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CN111118898A
CN111118898A CN201911326478.2A CN201911326478A CN111118898A CN 111118898 A CN111118898 A CN 111118898A CN 201911326478 A CN201911326478 A CN 201911326478A CN 111118898 A CN111118898 A CN 111118898A
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蔡永东
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Nantong Textile Vocational Technology College
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种LF型天丝/圣麻/合金锗纤维混纺接触凉感多功能衬衫面料,本发明将圣麻纤维与合金锗纤维很好的结合,充分发挥各自的功能,同时配以凉感后整理,使产品不仅具有优良的凉感效果,同时具有负离子释放,抗菌和除臭功能,同时产品耐洗效果好。本发明的产品大大提高了相关高档功能性衬衫面料的质量与档次,使得其产品质量实现了质的飞跃,较好地满足广大消费者对高档功能性衬衫面料的需求。

Description

LF型天丝/圣麻/合金锗纤维混纺接触凉感多功能衬衫面料
技术领域
本发明具体涉及一种LF型天丝/圣麻/合金锗纤维混纺接触凉感多功能衬衫面料及其生产工艺。
背景技术
随着生活质量的不断提高,人们对衬衫面料的舒适性、保健性和时尚化要求更高,为不断增强企业核心竞争力,开发满足市场需求的新产品,优化产品结构,提高产品档次是企业发展的核心。为满足市场对高档功能性衬衫面料的需求,开发了一种LF型天丝/圣麻/合金锗纤维接触凉感多功能衬衫面料。
发明内容
发明目的:为了解决现有技术的不足,本发明提供了一种LF型天丝/圣麻/合金锗纤维混纺接触凉感多功能衬衫面料及其生产工艺。
技术方案:一种LF型天丝/圣麻/合金锗纤维混纺接触凉感多功能衬衫面料,织物规格如下:织物组织:平纹地小提花;成品门幅:148cm;经纬原料及纱号:皆为LF型天丝60/圣麻纤维25/合金锗纤维15,14.5tex;经、纬密度为:523根/10cm×394根/10cm。
作为优化:所述合金锗纤维的预处理采用0.3%~0.4%OP型抗静电剂,均匀喷洒在散纤维上,闷放24小时,保证充分渗透。
一种所述的LF型天丝/圣麻/合金锗纤维混纺接触凉感多功能衬衫面料的生产工艺,包括如下步骤:整经→浆纱→穿经→织造→后整理;其中:
所述的整经:
采用贝宁格ZDA型高速整经机进行分批整经,整经头份为744根/轴,共10轴;整经速度控制在900m/min;卷绕密度为0.48g/cm3;分段配置整经张力,前段为16cN、中段为20cN、后段为18cN及边纱为22cN;
所述的浆纱:
采用祖克432型浆纱机进行浆纱,浆液配方依据“相似相容”原理,采用无PVA上浆工艺,具体浆料配方为:TBS为25kg、JSL-2为45kg、CD-DF为15kg AD-2为5kg,调浆粘度为10s、调浆温度为98℃、PH值为6.5;
上浆时采用“高浓低粘高压”两高一低工艺,主要上浆工艺参数设计如下:浆纱车速为45m/min;浆槽浆液温度为95℃以上、粘度为9s;采用“前重后轻”工艺配置压浆辊压力,以达到浆纱浸透与被覆兼顾,前压浆辊加压为20kN、后压浆辊加压为15kN;烘房预烘温度为120℃、烘干温度为110℃;为减少浆纱时张力与伸长,对五个区段应合理配置张力,退解区为500N、引纱区为400N、烘燥区为600N、干纱区为3000N、卷取区为4000N;主要上浆质量指标如下:上浆率14%、浆纱回潮率7.5%、浆纱伸长率≤1%、增强率35%以上、毛羽降低率达70%以上;
所述的穿经:
该织物采用平纹地小提花,在织造时采用双轴并列织造,提综方法为反织法;穿综顺序:边1,2,3,4;布身(5,6,1,2,3,4)×2,5,6,1,2,11,12,(13,14)×3,13,12,11,(6,1,2,3,4,5)×9,6,1,2,3,4,7,8,(9,10)×3,9,8,7,(6,1,2,3,4,5)×7,6,1,2,3,4,经向一花循环根数为144根;穿筘:边、地组织都为2入/D;
所述的织造:
采用GA747-360型阔幅剑杆织机进行双轴并列织造,织造生产时应合理调整织造上机工艺,具体调整如下:选用反织法,织造时采用“大张力、低速度、大开口、迟开口、低后梁”的工艺原则,具体工艺参数设计为:车速为140rpm,开口时间为305°,上机张力为12kN,进剑时间为75°,纬纱交接时间为180°,后梁高度为8cm档,停经架深度为4cm档;车间温度控制在25℃,相对湿度应达到80%以上;
所述的后整理:
后整理过程中进行凉感后整理,整理剂选用蚕丝蛋白凉感整理剂TK COOL SP-6、氨基酸凉感整理TK COOL 53K及TASTEX COOL-EX进行复配,得到整理工艺为:浸轧复配溶液,轧余率为70%→烘干,温度为:100-120℃,时间为:40-60s。
作为优化:所述后整理后温度测定:在温度28.5℃,相对湿度55%条件下,将试验布料放在手背上测定其接触状态下手背的平均温度,整理后面料比未整理面料温度低3-4℃,水洗10次后低3℃;面料负离子释放量:≥2800个/cm3,水洗10次后负离子释放量≥2500个/cm3
有益效果:本发明将天丝、圣麻纤维与合金锗纤维很好的结合,充分发挥各自的功能,同时配以凉感后整理,使产品不仅具有优良的凉感效果,同时具有负离子释放,抗菌和除臭功能,同时产品耐洗效果好。本发明的产品大大提高了相关高档功能性衬衫面料的质量与档次,使得其产品质量实现了质的飞跃,较好地满足广大消费者对高档功能性衬衫面料的需求。
附图说明
图1是本发明的织物组织示意图;
图2是本发明的织物纹板示意图。
具体实施方式
下面将对本发明实施例中的技术方案进行清楚、完整地描述,以使本领域的技术人员能够更好的理解本发明的优点和特征,从而对本发明的保护范围做出更为清楚的界定。本发明所描述的实施例仅仅是本发明一部分实施例,而不是全部的实施例,基于本发明中的实施例,本领域普通技术人员在没有做出创造性劳动的前提下所获得的所有其他实施例,都属于本发明保护的范围。
具体实施例
1原料选用
天丝纤维具有棉的柔软性、涤纶的高强力及羊毛的保暖性,而成一种广为应用的绿色环保纤维,但其纤维分为A100型(非原纤化)、G100型(原纤化)及LF型(低原纤化)3类,其中LF型天丝具有强度大、伸长小、湿模高、干湿强度均大之优点,故选用其作原料。
圣麻纤维是一种新型再生纤维素纤维的纺织新材料,具有天然抗菌、抑螨性能,是一种真正意义上的纺织新原料,同时具有可纺性好、染色亮丽、穿着舒适的特点。圣麻纤维能够弥补天然麻纤维的不足,大大提高麻类织物的档次。
合金锗纤维是以涤纶为载体,在纺丝过程中,采用吸湿透气性能好的异形截面结构,并添加一定比例的纳米级锗系凉爽改性母粒,使纤维在使用过程中有良好的凉爽效果和一定的负离子保健、除臭、和抗静电效果,是一种具有低碳环保节能和保健意义的功能性纤维。
2混纺比的确定
为了既能保证产品的凉感效果及附带的负离子保健、除臭和抗静电效果,以及圣麻纤维的天然抗菌防螨性能,LF型天丝、圣麻纤维及合金锗纤维的混纺比选择十分重要。为此反复做了不同LF型天丝/圣麻/合金锗纤维的配比试验,如70/20/10、60/25/15、50/35/15、50/30/20等,纺成14.5tex纱,然后通过对纱线性能测试对比,最终优选出合适配比为LF型天丝60/圣麻纤维25/合金锗纤维15。
为此,用这三种纤维混纺纱进行织造,可充分发挥三种纤维的优良性能,又相互弥补性能的不足,发挥其在高档功能性衬衫面料上的应用优势。
3主要纺纱技术
3.1合金锗纤维的预处理
合金锗纤维表面光滑,抱合力差,静电严重,易造成粘附、缠绕、堵塞现象。为此纺纱前须对合金锗纤维进行适当的预处理,以改善可纺性。合金锗纤维的预处理采用0.3%~0.4%OP型抗静电剂,均匀喷洒在散纤维上,闷放24小时左右,以保证充分渗透。
3.2并条
在并条过程中,出现了缠绕罗拉的现象,因此并条时采用顺牵伸工艺,有利于纤维后弯钩的伸直,提高条干均匀度;保证生产环境相对湿度在65%左右,降低车速,以达到防止出现缠绕罗拉现象;头道先采用6根并合,减小总牵伸倍数,防止纤维过度牵伸而影响条干。经试验,并条效果还是不理想,后又改进工艺,采用混纺两道8并,后区牵伸倍数应偏大掌握,主要工艺为:隔距10mm×20mm,E(1)/(2)8.265/8.543倍,E(1)/(2)1.86/1.26倍,熟条Uster条干3.1%,这样有效地防止出现硬头或条干恶化现象。
3.3细纱
为改善成纱条干,降低毛羽,细纱工序采用赛络纺。细纱采用“重加压、放大后区隔距、缩小后区牵伸、小钳口和慢速度”的工艺原则,具体工艺参数设置如下:总牵伸50倍,后区牵伸1.21倍,罗拉隔距18mm×35mm,清洁器隔距1.6mm,肖子隔距2.5mm,锭速11000r/min,捻系数320;集聚张力1.05倍,负压值1300Pa,网格圈目数150。
为适应不同风格和档次的面料的要求,分别纺制出不同线密度纱线,如14.5tex、11.7tex及9.7tex。
4产品设计
根据家纺面料一般要求,主要介绍其中一款织物规格如下:
成品门幅:148cm;
经纬原料及纱号:皆为LF型天丝60/圣麻纤维25/合金锗纤维15,14.5tex;
经、纬密度:523根/10cm×394根/10cm;
织物组织:平纹地小提花(如图1)。
5主要织造工艺
5.1织造加工工艺流程
整经→浆纱→穿经→织造→后整理。
5.1整经
采用分批整经,整经头份为744根/轴,共10轴。由于经纱为低特纱,整经时车速不宜过快、在保证减少伸长及保持原纱弹性的前提下,整经张力应尽可能小些。这样整经速度控制在900m/min左右;卷绕密度为0.48g/cm3;分段配置整经张力,前段16cN、中段20cN、后段18cN及边纱22cN,以保证片纱张力均匀。
5.2浆纱
浆液配方设计时依据“相似相容”原理,结合绿色生产要求,宜采用无PVA上浆工艺。由于纱号细,总经根数多,且为平纹地小提花组织,为此浆料选用时,应选用渗透性能好、粘度稳定、浆膜机械性能好的浆料进行上浆,故浆料配方组分应以高性能变性淀粉及聚丙烯酸类浆料为主,具体浆料配方为:TBS为25kg、JSL-2为45kg、CD-DF为15kg AD-2为5kg,调浆粘度为10s、调浆温度为98℃、PH值为6.5。
上浆时应采用“高浓低粘高压”两高一低工艺,主要上浆工艺参数设计如下:浆纱车速45m/min;浆槽浆液温度95℃以上、粘度9s左右;采用“前重后轻”工艺配置压浆辊压力,以达到浆纱浸透与被覆兼顾,前压浆辊加压20kN、后压浆辊加压15kN;烘房预烘温度为120℃、烘干温度为110℃;为减少浆纱时张力与伸长,对五个区段应合理配置张力,退解区500N、引纱区400N、烘燥区600N、干纱区3000N、卷取区4000N;主要上浆质量指标设定如下:上浆率14%、浆纱回潮率7.5%、浆纱伸长率≤1%、增强率35%以上、毛羽降低率达70%以上。
5.3穿经
由于该织物采用平纹地小提花,结合具体组织特点,在织造时应采用双轴并列织造,提综方法为反织法,图2为纹板图(反织)。
穿综顺序:边1,2,3,4;布身(5,6,1,2,3,4)×2,5,6,1,2,11,12,(13,14)×3,13,12,11,(6,1,2,3,4,5)×9,6,1,2,3,4,7,8,(9,10)×3,9,8,7,(6,1,2,3,4,5)×7,6,1,2,3,4,经向一花循环根数为144根。
穿筘:边、地组织都为2入/D。
5.4织造
采用GA747-360型阔幅剑杆织机进行双轴并列织造。由于该品种是平纹小提花面料,纱支特细、密度大,综页多的特点,织造生产时应合理调整织造上机工艺,具体调整如下:根据产品组织特点,宜选用反织法,织造时采用“大张力、低速度、大开口、迟开口、低后梁”的工艺原则,以利于开清梭口,确保织造效率,降低织疵率,并利于形成织物花纹清晰的效果。具体工艺参数设计为:车速为140rpm,开口时间为305°,上机张力为12kN,进剑时间为75°,纬纱交接时间为180°,后梁高度为8cm档,停经架深度为4cm档。车间温度控制在25℃,相对湿度应达到80%以上,保证织造该织物所需的生产环境,这样有利于提高织机的生产效率与产品质量。
6面料的凉感整理
为了提高产品的凉感效果,在后整理过程中进行凉感后整理,整理剂选用蚕丝蛋白凉感整理剂TK COOL SP-6、氨基酸凉感整理TK COOL 53K及TASTEX COOL-EX进行复配。经过多次的配方调配,最后得到整理工艺为:浸轧复配溶液(轧余率为70%)→烘干(温度为:100-120℃,时间为:40-60s)。
整理后温度测定:在温度28.5℃,相对湿度55%条件下,将试验布料放在手背上测定其接触状态下手背的平均温度,整理后面料比未整理面料温度低3-4℃,水洗10次后低3℃;面料负离子释放量:≥2800个/cm3,水洗10次后负离子释放量≥2500个/cm3
本发明将天丝、圣麻纤维与合金锗纤维很好的结合,充分发挥各自的功能,同时配以凉感后整理,使产品不仅具有优良的凉感效果,同时具有负离子释放,抗菌和除臭功能,同时产品耐洗效果好。本发明的产品大大提高了相关高档功能性衬衫面料的质量与档次,使得其产品质量实现了质的飞跃,较好地满足广大消费者对高档功能性衬衫面料的需求。

Claims (4)

1.一种LF型天丝/圣麻/合金锗纤维混纺接触凉感多功能衬衫面料,其特征在于:织物规格如下:织物组织:平纹地小提花;成品门幅:148cm;经纬原料及纱号:皆为LF型天丝纤维60/圣麻纤维25/合金锗纤维15,14.5tex;经、纬密度为:523根/10cm×394根/10cm。
2.根据权利要求1所述的LF型天丝/圣麻/合金锗纤维混纺接触凉感多功能衬衫面料,其特征在于:所述合金锗纤维的预处理采用0.3%~0.4%OP型抗静电剂,均匀喷洒在散纤维上,闷放24小时,保证充分渗透。
3.一种根据权利要求1所述的LF型天丝/圣麻/合金锗纤维混纺接触凉感多功能衬衫面料的生产工艺,其特征在于:包括如下步骤:整经→浆纱→穿经→织造→后整理;其中:
所述的整经:
采用贝宁格ZDA型高速整经机进行分批整经,整经头份为744根/轴,共10轴;整经速度控制在900m/min;卷绕密度为0.48g/cm3;分段配置整经张力,前段为16cN、中段为20cN、后段为18cN及边纱为22cN;
所述的浆纱:
采用祖克432型浆纱机进行浆纱,浆液配方依据“相似相容”原理,采用无PVA上浆工艺,具体浆料配方为:TBS为25kg、JSL-2为45kg、CD-DF为15kg AD-2为5kg,调浆粘度为10s、调浆温度为98℃、PH值为6.5;
上浆时采用“高浓低粘高压”两高一低工艺,主要上浆工艺参数设计如下:浆纱车速为45m/min;浆槽浆液温度为95℃以上、粘度为9s;采用“前重后轻”工艺配置压浆辊压力,以达到浆纱浸透与被覆兼顾,前压浆辊加压为20kN、后压浆辊加压为15kN;烘房预烘温度为120℃、烘干温度为110℃;为减少浆纱时张力与伸长,对五个区段应合理配置张力,退解区为500N、引纱区为400N、烘燥区为600N、干纱区为3000N、卷取区为4000N;主要上浆质量指标如下:上浆率14%、浆纱回潮率7.5%、浆纱伸长率≤1%、增强率35%以上、毛羽降低率达70%以上;
所述的穿经:
该织物采用平纹地小提花,在织造时采用双轴并列织造,提综方法为反织法;穿综顺序:边1,2,3,4;布身(5,6,1,2,3,4)×2,5,6,1,2,11,12,(13,14)×3,13,12,11,(6,1,2,3,4,5)×9,6,1,2,3,4,7,8,(9,10)×3,9,8,7,(6,1,2,3,4,5)×7,6,1,2,3,4,经向一花循环根数为144根;穿筘:边、地组织都为2入/D;
所述的织造:
采用GA747-360型阔幅剑杆织机进行双轴并列织造,织造生产时应合理调整织造上机工艺,具体调整如下:选用反织法,织造时采用“大张力、低速度、大开口、迟开口、低后梁”的工艺原则,具体工艺参数设计为:车速为140rpm,开口时间为305°,上机张力为12kN,进剑时间为75°,纬纱交接时间为180°,后梁高度为8cm档,停经架深度为4cm档;车间温度控制在25℃,相对湿度应达到80%以上;
所述的后整理:
后整理过程中进行凉感后整理,整理剂选用蚕丝蛋白凉感整理剂TK COOL SP-6、氨基酸凉感整理TK COOL 53K及TASTEX COOL-EX进行复配,得到整理工艺为:浸轧复配溶液,轧余率为70%→烘干,温度为:100-120℃,时间为:40-60s。
4.根据权利要求3所述的LF型天丝/圣麻/合金锗纤维混纺接触凉感多功能衬衫面料的生产工艺,其特征在于:所述后整理后温度测定:在温度28.5℃,相对湿度55%条件下,将试验布料放在手背上测定其接触状态下手背的平均温度,整理后面料比未整理面料温度低3-4℃,水洗10次后低3℃;面料负离子释放量:≥2800个/cm3,水洗10次后负离子释放量≥2500个/cm3
CN201911326478.2A 2019-12-20 2019-12-20 Lf型天丝/圣麻/合金锗纤维混纺接触凉感多功能衬衫面料 Withdrawn CN111118898A (zh)

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