CN110241634A - 一种纯亚麻色织面料的生产工艺 - Google Patents

一种纯亚麻色织面料的生产工艺 Download PDF

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CN110241634A
CN110241634A CN201910511279.2A CN201910511279A CN110241634A CN 110241634 A CN110241634 A CN 110241634A CN 201910511279 A CN201910511279 A CN 201910511279A CN 110241634 A CN110241634 A CN 110241634A
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yarn
dyed
flax
pure
production technology
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孙月玲
蒋龙宇
杨正华
徐小评
欧阳伟业
向中林
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JIANGSU LIANFA TEXTILE CO Ltd
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Abstract

一种纯亚麻色织面料的生产工艺,涉及纺织生产技术领域,先采用络筒机对纱线进行松式络筒,取得松式筒子纱,然后对松式筒子纱进行染色、倒筒,再经过分批整经后上浆,最后进行织造。本发明将倒筒、分批整经工艺安排在上浆工艺之前,本发明方法产量高、上浆质量稳定、织造效率高,产品一等品率高。

Description

一种纯亚麻色织面料的生产工艺
技术领域
本发明涉及纺织生产技术领域,特别是纯亚麻色织面料的生产技术。
背景技术
亚麻常被称为纤维皇后,具有吸湿、散湿快,透气性好,挺括等特点。在国际上,特别是欧洲市场广为流行。现行的生产流程是先采用络筒机对纱线进行松式络筒,取得松式筒子纱,然后对松式筒子纱进行染色、上浆,再分条整经出轴织造。但是,由于亚麻纱线,特别是低特纱,纱线毛羽较多,断头率高,至使纺纱和织造工艺难度都很大,生产工艺的稳定性低,布机效率低。另外,亚麻织物贴身穿着会有强烈的刺痒感。
发明内容
针对现有技术的以上缺陷,本发明提出一种可提高布机生产效率、提高穿着舒适性的纯亚麻色织面料的生产工艺。
本发明技术方案是:先采用络筒机对纱线进行松式络筒,取得松式筒子纱,然后对松式筒子纱进行染色、倒筒,再经过分批整经后上浆,最后进行织造。
由于灌浆工艺上浆不稳定、分条整经效率低、产能低、织造断头率高,本发明调整了工艺顺序步骤,将倒筒、分批整经工艺安排在上浆工艺之前。本发明方法产量高、上浆质量稳定、织造效率高,产品一等品率高。
本发明主要从整经工艺路线考虑以加湿为主,高回潮贯穿整个过程。
由于亚麻的特性是湿强高,所以本发明控制染色后筒子纱的含潮率为8~12%,可提高筒子纱倒筒的运转率。
本发明上述染色包括前处理、染色处理、后处理、脱水和烘纱工序,在后处理时采用由柔软剂、抗静电平滑剂和水组成的后处理液对纱线进行处理,所述抗静电平滑剂在处理液中的含量为15g/ L。以上配方中采用抗静电平滑剂作为软油与柔软剂配合,可有效确保织造顺利进行。
为了保证筒子成型良好,生产运转率,降低断头率,整经前经纱湿度要高些,倒筒时筒子纱的回潮率为12~16%。
上浆时所述浆料由205PVA、聚丙烯酰胺类高分子聚合物M-5、抗静电平滑剂(即软油)、甘油和水组成。
所述浆料中,205PVA、聚丙烯酰胺类高分子聚合物M-5和抗静电平滑剂的各质量占比为2.78%、2.22%、2.78%。以上配方中抗静电平滑剂(即软油)用量较多,选择上述合理的配方是确保织造顺利进行的关键。
上浆时,每1根大稀轴拿头1根经纱放入1个筘齿里,即采用1轴1根1齿的原则,确保干区纱片不绞头断头。
上浆后纱线的回潮率为12~14%。高回潮可保证纱线湿度,改善浆纱手感,有利于织造。
由于麻的断裂伸长率低,为了确保生产可行性,上浆时,在退绕区和湿区张力分别为0%。
上浆时,采用一个上浆辊和两个压浆辊配合方式上浆后,再依次经过预烘锡林、合并烘锡林烘干。由于麻纤维的断裂伸长率极低,大约只有1.5%,而在上浆前各道工艺的加工过程中麻纤维几经拉伸,为了防止过度拉伸对麻纤维造成损伤,本发明采用较短的烘纱路线,可以减少亚麻纱线的伸长,保证浆纱、织造顺利。
织造时,经向张力为1200~1400N,储纬器转速设定最低,控制范围为1200~1600m/min。本发明采用以上织造小张力,可以进一步减少降低亚麻纱线的断头。
具体实施方式
一、松筒:
单筒重1kg,德一机台络筒,车速350~400m/min,张力最大,密度控制0.36±0.01g/cm3
二、染色:
1、前处理:
(1)精练:RED还原萃取剂 1.5g/L、EX还原萃取剂 4g/L,温度条件为70℃,处理时间为20min。
(2)氧漂:H2O2 2g/L、烧碱 2g/L、LGA精练剂 3g/L、MSD螯合剂 2g/L、渗透剂A-800B1g/L、双氧水稳定剂F-PL 1g/L,温度条件为105℃,处理时间为40min。
(3)酸洗去氧:冰醋酸 0.3g/L、MT-100A去氧酶 0.15g/L,温度条件为50℃,处理时间为20min。
2、染色:
配方:活性染料X%、元明粉 79g/L、纯碱 28g/L、匀染剂CV 1g/L,其余为水。
温度条件为60℃,处理时间为40min。
3、后处理:
后处理液配方:柔软剂(聚乙烯蜡)20g/L,抗静电平滑剂15g/ L,其余为水。
温度条件为55℃,处理时间为20min。
4、脱水、烘纱:脱水后高抽风烘干至含潮率为8~12%。
三、倒筒、整经:
1、倒筒的车速为500rpm,倒筒时控制筒子纱的回潮率为12~16%。
如没有湿度不足应及时加湿倒筒。
2、倒筒时加大张力,张力为6g。
主要目的:清除弱点,保证筒子成型好。
3、整经车速为300m/min,用小紧式整经轴生产,整经时筒子纱的含水率为14~18%。
4、因纱线强力和刚性大,因此对于断头后形成的结头用剪刀操作,结头的长度≤0.2cm。
以上先倒筒、整经、再浆纱的工艺流程即为分批整经工艺。
四、上浆:
1、配方
浆料由205PVA、M-5(聚丙烯酰胺类高分子聚合物)、抗静电平滑剂(即软油)、甘油和水组成。
具体地:
205PVA :10kg
M-5:8kg
抗静电平滑剂 :10kg
甘油:2.5kg
水:330kg。
将以上各原料混合,形成350L、含固率为4.6%的浆料。
2、浆纱工艺参数:
浆纱排筘时采用1轴1根1齿(即排花时每1根大稀轴拿头1根经纱放入1个筘齿里),确保干区纱片不绞头断头。
开单浆槽,浆槽中浆料的温度为85℃,粘度4秒(在80℃条件下)。
预烘锡林温度130℃,合并烘锡林温度80℃,为了保证上浆后纱线的回潮率为12~14%,将浆纱机的喷雾装置设置为连续性喷雾。
车速:35±2m/min。
浆纱压力:20/18KN。
张力:退绕区、湿区张力分别为0%,使用入纱压辊,以不影响开缸为原则。
纱线路径:采用一个上浆辊和两个压浆辊配合方式上浆后,再依次经过以上130℃预烘锡林、80℃合并烘锡林烘干,并且合并烘锡林只具有烘干和导辊的作用,而不具有拉伸的效果。
由于麻纤维的断裂伸长率极低,大约只有1.5%,而在上浆前各道工艺的加工过程中麻纤维几经拉伸,为了防止过度拉伸对麻纤维造成损伤,在本发明浆纱工序中采用的纱线路径为较短路径。通常纱线经过两次浸没辊和两次上浆辊、压浆辊的配合得以上浆,而本发明仅采用一个上浆辊和两个压浆辊配合方式上浆;在烘干时,通常纱线经过三、四组预烘锡林烘干和拉伸,而本发明仅采用一组130℃预烘锡林烘干和拉伸;通常纱线经过三、四组合并烘锡林烘干和拉伸,而本发明使纱线仅经过一组80℃合并烘锡林烘干,并且在该过程中没有对纱线进行拉伸。
五、织造:
1、采用大剑杆贝加诺织机进行织造。
2、车速400rpm,控制经向张力为1200~1400N。
3、储纬器转速设定最低,控制范围为1200~1600 m/min。
六、结果:
本发明工艺无需对现有设备进行升级换代,仅对现有设备改造和操作工艺资源的整合,即可将织造效率提升至86%,十万纬断经仅10次。

Claims (10)

1.一种纯亚麻色织面料的生产工艺,包括先采用络筒机对纱线进行松式络筒,取得松式筒子纱,然后对松式筒子纱进行染色,其特征在于:将染色后的筒 子纱倒筒后分批整经,然后再上浆、织造。
2.根据权利要求1所述纯亚麻色织面料的生产工艺,其特征在于:染色后筒子纱的含潮率为8~12%。
3.根据权利要求1或2所述纯亚麻色织面料的生产工艺,其特征在于:所述染色包括前处理、染色处理、后处理、脱水和烘纱工序,在后处理时采用由柔软剂、抗静电平滑剂和水组成的后处理液对纱线进行处理,所述抗静电平滑剂在处理液中的含量为15g/ L。
4.根据权利要求2所述纯亚麻色织面料的生产工艺,其特征在于:倒筒时筒子纱的回潮率为12~16%。
5.根据权利要求1所述纯亚麻色织面料的生产工艺,其特征在于:上浆时所述浆料由205PVA、聚丙烯酰胺类高分子聚合物M-5、抗静电平滑剂、甘油和水组成,所述浆料中,205PVA、聚丙烯酰胺类高分子聚合物M-5和抗静电平滑剂的各质量占比为2.78%、2.22%、2.78%。
6.根据权利要求5所述纯亚麻色织面料的生产工艺,其特征在于:上浆时,每1根大稀轴拿头1根经纱放入1个筘齿里。
7.根据权利要求4所述纯亚麻色织面料的生产工艺,其特征在于:上浆后纱线的回潮率为12~14%。
8.根据权利要求4所述纯亚麻色织面料的生产工艺,其特征在于:上浆时,在退绕区和湿区张力分别为0%。
9.根据权利要求4所述纯亚麻色织面料的生产工艺,其特征在于:上浆时,采用一个上浆辊和两个压浆辊配合方式上浆后,再依次经过预烘锡林、合并烘锡林烘干。
10.根据权利要求1所述纯亚麻色织面料的生产工艺,其特征在于:织造时,经向张力为1200~1400N,储纬器转速为1200~1600 m/min。
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