CN108542820B - Transdermal absorption enhancer, skin-care matrix and preparation method and application thereof - Google Patents

Transdermal absorption enhancer, skin-care matrix and preparation method and application thereof Download PDF

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CN108542820B
CN108542820B CN201810523186.7A CN201810523186A CN108542820B CN 108542820 B CN108542820 B CN 108542820B CN 201810523186 A CN201810523186 A CN 201810523186A CN 108542820 B CN108542820 B CN 108542820B
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transdermal absorption
weight
extract
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CN108542820A (en
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谢水林
赵美贺
孙娟娟
陈凤鸾
魏坤
王美贤
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Guangzhou Rui Sen Biotechnology Co ltd
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    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
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    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
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    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
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    • A61K8/345Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
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    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
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    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
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    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
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    • A61K8/466Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
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    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
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Abstract

The invention relates to a transdermal absorption enhancer, a skin-care matrix, and a preparation method and application thereof. The transdermal absorption enhancer consists of a natural transdermal enhancer and a chemical transdermal enhancer, wherein the mass percentage of the natural transdermal enhancer to the chemical transdermal enhancer is 65-85%: 15% -35%; the natural penetration enhancer is at least one selected from camellia seed oil, angelica sinensis extract, salvia miltiorrhiza extract and cinnamon extract; the chemical penetration enhancer is selected from at least one of sodium lauroyl sarcosine, hexadecyl sulfobetaine and dodecyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride. The transdermal absorption enhancer can effectively improve the transdermal absorption of functional components in cosmetics or skin care products. The skin care matrix has excellent transdermal absorption effect and has the effects of anti-allergy repair, moisture preservation and the like.

Description

Transdermal absorption enhancer, skin-care matrix and preparation method and application thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of skin care or cosmetics, in particular to a transdermal absorption enhancer, a skin care matrix, and a preparation method and application thereof.
Background
The cosmetics or skin care products on the market have the effects of moisturizing, whitening, resisting aging, repairing and the like, but the related research on how to carry out transdermal transmission on the effects of the cosmetics or skin care products is still to be promoted. If the cosmetics or skin care products stay on the skin surface, the nutrients are excessive, the skin is oxidized, and the growth and propagation of parasitic bacteria are caused, so that the skin is infected. Therefore, transdermal absorption of active ingredients in cosmetics or skin care products is crucial to the efficacy thereof.
Transdermal absorption in cosmetics or skin care products refers to the process by which functional ingredients in cosmetics act on the skin surface or into the epidermis or dermis, where they accumulate and function, depending on the effectiveness of the product. For example, UV absorbers in sunscreen products should be retained on the skin surface to function as both an absorber and a reflector for UV light; the whitening agent in the whitening product usually acts on a basal layer in the epidermis to play a role in blocking the generation of melanin; the functional components of the anti-aging product usually act on the fiber cells of the dermis layer to make the skin elastic.
With the increasing factors causing skin irritation in the environment such as air pollution and the medical and aesthetic minimally invasive surgery which is carried out by people in pursuit of beauty, the skin becomes more and more sensitive and even has the conditions of inflammation, redness, allergy and the like. Daily pure moisturizing skin care cannot repair the skin problems, the skin cannot be repaired in time after being stimulated, and the skin condition is worse and worse, so that cosmetics or skin care products with the function of repairing and resisting allergy are favored by consumers.
At present, the repairing and anti-allergy skin care products on the market after the skin is stimulated often have insignificant efficacy due to the fact that the efficacy components of the repairing and anti-allergy skin care products cannot be effectively absorbed through the skin. Therefore, cosmetics with enhanced anti-allergy repair efficacy based on improved transdermal absorption of efficacy ingredients would certainly have great market potential.
Disclosure of Invention
Based on the above, the invention provides a transdermal absorption enhancer which can effectively improve the transdermal absorption of functional components in cosmetics or skin care products.
The specific technical scheme is as follows:
a transdermal absorption enhancer comprises a natural transdermal enhancer and a chemical transdermal enhancer, wherein the mass percentage of the natural transdermal enhancer to the chemical transdermal enhancer is 65% -85%: 15% -35%; the natural penetration enhancer is at least one selected from camellia seed oil, angelica sinensis extract, salvia miltiorrhiza extract and cinnamon extract; the chemical penetration enhancer is selected from at least one of sodium lauroyl sarcosine, hexadecyl sulfobetaine and dodecyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride.
In some embodiments, the mass percentage of the natural penetration enhancer and the chemical penetration enhancer is 65% -75%: 25 to 35 percent.
In some of these embodiments, the transdermal absorption enhancer is prepared from a mixture of 1: 0.5-1: 0.5-1 camellia seed oil, angelica sinensis extract and hexadecyl sulfobetaine.
In some of these embodiments, the transdermal absorption enhancer is prepared from a mixture of 1: 0.7-0.8, and the components of camellia seed oil, angelica sinensis extract and hexadecyl sulfobetaine.
The invention also provides a skin-care matrix. The skin care matrix has good transdermal absorption effect, and has anti-allergy repairing and moisturizing effects.
The specific technical scheme is as follows:
a skin care matrix is prepared from the skin care matrix raw materials including the transdermal absorption enhancer.
In some embodiments, the transdermal absorption enhancer is added to the skin care matrix in an amount of 0.01-0.5%.
In some embodiments, the transdermal absorption enhancer is added to the skin care product matrix in an amount of 0.2-0.5%.
In some embodiments, the raw materials for preparing the skin care matrix further comprise a skin care composition, wherein the skin care composition comprises the following components in parts by weight:
Figure BDA0001675341820000021
in some of these embodiments, the skin care composition comprises the following components in parts by weight:
Figure BDA0001675341820000022
in some embodiments, the skin care composition further comprises the following components in parts by weight:
0.01-1 parts of Pelargonium graveolens extract, and/or
0.01-1 part of sophora flavescens root extract and/or
10.01-1 parts of oligopeptide.
In some embodiments, the skin care composition further comprises the following components in parts by weight:
0.1 to 0.5 parts of Pelargonium graveolens extract, and/or
0.1-0.5 parts of sophora flavescens root extract and/or
10.3-0.5 parts of oligopeptide.
In some of these embodiments, the skin care composition is added to the skin care base in an amount of 0.2 to 15%.
In some of these embodiments, the skin care composition is added to the skin care base in an amount of 3-5%.
In some embodiments, the raw materials for preparing the skin care matrix comprise the following components in percentage by weight:
Figure BDA0001675341820000031
in some embodiments, the raw materials for preparing the skin care matrix comprise the following components in percentage by weight:
Figure BDA0001675341820000032
in some of these embodiments, the preservative is selected from at least one of a zanthoxylum piperitum extract, a pulsatillae radix extract, and an usnea barbata extract.
The invention also provides a skin care product or a cosmetic.
The specific technical scheme is as follows:
the raw materials for preparing the cosmetic or the skin care product comprise the skin care matrix and other acceptable auxiliary materials in the cosmetic or the skin care product. The skin care matrix has the efficacy of anti-allergy repair, and the active ingredients of the matrix are easy to be absorbed through skin so as to provide nutrition for skin; the matrix can be further added with related ingredients or adjuvants in cosmetics or skin care products to make into cosmetics or skin care products in various dosage forms, including but not limited to aqua, facial mask, lotion, emulsion, cream, ointment, and gel.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the skin care matrix.
The specific technical scheme is as follows:
uniformly dissolving a transdermal absorption enhancer in a mixed solvent to obtain a mixed solution of the transdermal absorption enhancer, wherein the mixed solvent comprises water, absolute ethyl alcohol and glycerol in a mass ratio of 4-6: 2-3: 1, and the mass ratio of the total mass of the transdermal absorption enhancer to the mixed solvent is 1: 0.8-1.2;
adding the rest of the water, the 1, 3-propylene glycol and the rest of the glycerol into a stirring pot, stirring and mixing uniformly at the temperature of 80-90 ℃, adding the mixed solution of the transdermal absorption enhancer, and stirring and mixing uniformly to obtain a phase A mixed solution;
when the temperature of the A-phase mixed solution is cooled to 60-70 ℃, adding a B-phase substance, and uniformly stirring to obtain an A/B-phase mixed solution; the phase B substance is the rutin and agave stem extract;
cooling the A/B mixed solution to 35-45 ℃, adding the C-phase substance, and uniformly stirring to obtain the A/B mixed solution; the phase C material is a preservative and components of the skin care composition other than rutin and agave stem extract.
The transdermal absorption enhancer, the skin-care matrix and the preparation method and the application thereof have the following advantages and beneficial effects:
the composite transdermal absorption enhancer is prepared by compounding the specific natural transdermal enhancer and the chemical transdermal enhancer, can obviously improve the transdermal absorption effect of the transdermal enhancer, and can obviously improve the transdermal absorption of skin care functional components when being used in a skin care matrix or a cosmetic or a skin care product, thereby improving the skin care effect of the cosmetic or the skin care product.
The composite percutaneous absorption enhancer disclosed by the invention is further preferably compounded by camellia seed oil, angelica sinensis and hexadecyl sulfobetaine in a specific ratio, so that the permeation enhancing effect of the percutaneous absorption enhancer on skin-care functional components is further improved. The camellia seed oil mainly contains oleic acid (85-88%) and linoleic acid, and is rich in vitamin A, B, E, D, carotene and other antioxidants. Oleic acid, octadecenoic acid, is very similar to fatty acid in human skin in structure, and can affect stratum corneum lipid structure, change it, increase lipid fluidity, and promote penetration of effective substances. Linoleic acid is diene unsaturated acid, is stable in camellia oil, is not easy to oxidize, and has vitamin E-like function. The camellia oil is matched with angelica and hexadecyl sulfobetaine to be used together, has a synergistic effect, and can obviously improve the permeation promoting effect of the composite permeation promoter.
In the skin-care matrix, a specific skin-care composition is further selected, and all components in the skin-care composition have synergistic effect, so that the skin-care matrix has obvious anti-allergy repairing and moisturizing effects, and is matched with the good penetration promoting effect of the transdermal absorption enhancer, so that the transdermal absorption effect of the skin-care composition is greatly improved, and the skin-care matrix has obvious anti-allergy repairing and moisturizing effects, is safe and has no stimulation.
Detailed Description
The present invention will be described in further detail with reference to specific examples.
The reagents and starting materials used in the following examples are, unless otherwise specified, commercially available common reagents and starting materials.
Wherein, the cosmetic-grade camellia oil is purchased from south Ning Runshengtang Biotechnology Co., Ltd;
the Angelica sinensis extract was obtained from vast Sen deep Biotech Co., Ltd, Beijing Oriental;
the agave stem extract is purchased from Beijing institute of biochemical and reliable technology;
the Pelargonium graveolens extract is obtained from spring beauty works of Guangzhou city;
the extract of Chrysanthemum indicum L is obtained from Riming chemical Co., Ltd of Kyodo-Marzuke;
the extract of Sophora flavescens Ailanthus is obtained from Guangzhou Qi Yuan Biotech limited;
the purslane extract is purchased from Shenzhen Lopa New Material science and technology Limited company;
the Zanthoxylum piperitum extract is obtained from Guangzhou Pingyan Biotech limited;
the extract of Pulsatillae radix is obtained from Guangzhou Pingyan Biotech limited;
usnea barbata extract was obtained from Guangzhou Proteus Biotech limited.
Example 1
This example provides a skin care base with anti-allergy repairing effect, which is prepared by the following steps:
(1) starting stirring, adding 84.28 parts by weight of water, 4 parts by weight of 1, 3-propylene glycol and 6 parts by weight of glycerol into a stirring pot, stirring at 85 ℃ and 400rpm for 30min, adding 0.01 part by weight of a composite transdermal absorption enhancer (comprising 40% of cosmetic-grade camellia seed oil, 30% of angelica sinensis extract and 30% of hexadecyl sulfobetaine), dissolving uniformly by using a mixed solvent before adding, wherein the mixed solvent comprises water, absolute ethyl alcohol and glycerol in a weight ratio of 10:5:2, and the mass ratio of the total mass of the cosmetic-grade camellia seed oil, the angelica sinensis extract and the hexadecyl sulfobetaine to the mixed solvent is 1:1), stirring for 30min until uniformly mixing to obtain an A-phase mixed solution, and cooling for later use.
(2) Adding 2 parts by weight of rutin and 1 part by weight of agave stem extract into the A phase mixed solution cooled to 65 ℃, keeping the temperature at 65 ℃, stirring at 400rpm for 30min, uniformly mixing to obtain an A/B phase mixed solution, and cooling for later use.
(3) Adding Pelargonium graveolens extract 0.2 weight parts, flos Matricariae Chamomillae extract 0.4 weight parts, and herba Portulacae extract 0.1 weight parts into the A/B phase mixture cooled to 40 deg.C, mixing at 500rpm, and stirring for 30 min; and then adding 1 part by weight of the zanthoxylum piperitum extract and 1 part by weight of the Chinese pulsatilla root extract, further supplementing water to 100 parts by weight of the total amount due to the volatilization of water in the heating and stirring process, mixing and stirring for 30min, and discharging to obtain the anti-allergy repairing skin-care matrix.
Example 2
This example provides a skin care base with anti-allergy repairing effect, which is prepared by the following steps:
(1) starting stirring, adding 83.7 parts by weight of water, 4 parts by weight of 1, 3-propylene glycol and 6 parts by weight of glycerol into a stirring pot, stirring at the temperature of 85 ℃ and the stirring speed of 400rpm for 30min, adding 0.2 part by weight of a composite transdermal absorption enhancer (comprising 40% of cosmetic-grade camellia seed oil, 30% of angelica sinensis extract and 30% of hexadecyl sulfobetaine), dissolving uniformly by using a mixed solvent before adding, wherein the mixed solvent comprises water, absolute ethyl alcohol and glycerol in a weight ratio of 10:5:2, and the mass ratio of the total mass of the cosmetic-grade camellia seed oil, the angelica sinensis extract and the hexadecyl sulfobetaine to the mixed solvent is 1:1), stirring for 30min until uniformly mixing to obtain an A-phase mixed solution, and cooling for later use.
(2) Adding 2 parts by weight of rutin and 1 part by weight of agave stem extract into the A phase mixed solution cooled to 65 ℃, keeping the temperature at 65 ℃, stirring at 400rpm for 30min, uniformly mixing to obtain an A/B phase mixed solution, and cooling for later use.
(3) Adding oligopeptide-1 0.5 weight part, flos Chrysanthemi extract 0.2 weight part, and herba Portulacae extract 0.2 weight part into the A/B phase mixture cooled to 40 deg.C, mixing at 500rpm for 30 min; and then adding 1 part by weight of the zanthoxylum piperitum extract and 1 part by weight of the Chinese pulsatilla root extract, further supplementing water to 100 parts by weight of the total amount due to the volatilization of water in the heating and stirring process, mixing and stirring for 30min, and discharging to obtain the anti-allergy repairing skin-care matrix.
Example 3
This example provides a skin care base with anti-allergy repairing effect, which is prepared by the following steps:
(1) starting stirring, adding 83.1 parts by weight of water, 4 parts by weight of 1, 3-propylene glycol and 6 parts by weight of glycerol into a stirring pot, stirring at 85 ℃ and 400rpm for 30min, adding 0.5 part by weight of a composite transdermal absorption enhancer (comprising 40% of cosmetic-grade camellia seed oil, 30% of angelica sinensis extract and 30% of hexadecyl sulfobetaine), uniformly dissolving the mixture with a mixed solvent before adding, wherein the mixed solvent comprises water, absolute ethyl alcohol and glycerol in a weight ratio of 10:5:2, and the mass ratio of the total mass of the cosmetic-grade camellia seed oil, the angelica sinensis extract and the hexadecyl sulfobetaine to the mixed solvent is 1:1), stirring for 30min until the mixture is uniformly mixed to obtain an A-phase mixed solution, and cooling for later use.
(2) Adding 2 parts by weight of rutin and 1 part by weight of agave stem extract into the A phase mixed solution cooled to 65 ℃, keeping the temperature at 65 ℃, stirring at 400rpm for 30min, uniformly mixing to obtain an A/B phase mixed solution, and cooling for later use.
(3) Adding oligopeptide-1 0.5 weight part, flos Chrysanthemi extract 0.2 weight part, and herba Portulacae extract 0.2 weight part into the A/B phase mixture cooled to 40 deg.C, mixing at 500rpm for 30 min; and then adding 1 part by weight of the zanthoxylum piperitum extract and 1 part by weight of the Chinese pulsatilla root extract, further supplementing water to 100 parts by weight of the total amount due to the volatilization of water in the heating and stirring process, mixing and stirring for 30min, and discharging to obtain the anti-allergy repairing skin-care matrix.
Comparative example 1
The comparative example provides a skin care matrix with anti-allergy repair efficacy, the preparation method of which is as follows:
(1) starting stirring, adding 83.7 parts by weight of water, 4 parts by weight of 1, 3-propylene glycol and 6 parts by weight of glycerol into a stirring pot, stirring at 85 ℃ and 400rpm for 30min, adding 0.2 part by weight of natural penetration enhancer (the natural penetration enhancer comprises the angelica sinensis extract and is uniformly dissolved by using a mixed solvent before adding, wherein the mixed solvent comprises water, absolute ethyl alcohol and glycerol in a weight ratio of 10:5:2, and the mass ratio of the angelica sinensis extract to the mixed solvent is 1:1), stirring for 30min until uniformly mixing to obtain a phase A mixed solution, and cooling for later use.
(2) Adding 2 parts by weight of rutin and 1 part by weight of agave stem extract into the A phase mixed solution cooled to 65 ℃, keeping the temperature at 65 ℃, stirring at 400rpm for 30min, uniformly mixing to obtain an A/B phase mixed solution, and cooling for later use.
(3) Adding oligopeptide-1 0.5 weight part, flos Chrysanthemi extract 0.2 weight part, and herba Portulacae extract 0.2 weight part into the A/B phase mixture cooled to 40 deg.C, mixing at 500rpm for 30 min; and then adding 1 part by weight of the zanthoxylum piperitum extract and 1 part by weight of the Chinese pulsatilla root extract, further supplementing water to 100 parts by weight of the total amount due to the volatilization of water in the heating and stirring process, mixing and stirring for 30min, and discharging to obtain the anti-allergy repairing skin-care matrix.
Comparative example 2
The comparative example provides a skin care matrix with anti-allergy repair efficacy, the preparation method of which is as follows:
(1) starting stirring, adding 83.7 parts by weight of water, 4 parts by weight of 1, 3-propylene glycol and 5 parts by weight of glycerol into a stirring pot, stirring at the temperature of 85 ℃ and the speed of 400rpm for 30min, adding 0.2 part by weight of chemical penetration enhancer (composed of hexadecyl sulfobetaine, uniformly dissolving the chemical penetration enhancer by using a mixed solvent before adding, wherein the mixed solvent comprises water, absolute ethyl alcohol and glycerol in a weight ratio of 10:5:2, and the mass ratio of the hexadecyl sulfobetaine to the mixed solvent is 1:1), stirring for 30min until uniformly mixing to obtain a phase A mixed solution, and cooling for later use.
(2) Adding 2 parts by weight of rutin and 1 part by weight of agave stem extract into the A phase mixed solution cooled to 65 ℃, keeping the temperature at 65 ℃, stirring at 400rpm for 30min, uniformly mixing to obtain an A/B phase mixed solution, and cooling for later use.
(3) Adding oligopeptide-1 0.5 weight part, flos Chrysanthemi extract 0.2 weight part, and herba Portulacae extract 0.2 weight part into the A/B phase mixture cooled to 40 deg.C, mixing at 500rpm for 30 min; and then adding 1 part by weight of the zanthoxylum piperitum extract and 1 part by weight of the Chinese pulsatilla root extract, further supplementing water to 100 parts by weight of the total amount due to the volatilization of water in the heating and stirring process, mixing and stirring for 30min, and discharging to obtain the anti-allergy repairing skin-care matrix.
Comparative example 3
The comparative example provides a skin care matrix with anti-allergy repair efficacy, the preparation method of which is as follows:
(1) starting stirring, adding 83.7 parts by weight of water, 4 parts by weight of 1, 3-propylene glycol and 6 parts by weight of glycerol into a stirring pot, stirring at 85 ℃ and 400rpm for 30min, adding 0.2 part by weight of natural penetration enhancer (the natural penetration enhancer comprises cosmetic-grade camellia seed oil, and uniformly dissolving the natural penetration enhancer with a mixed solvent which is water, absolute ethyl alcohol and glycerol in a weight ratio of 10:5:2 and is 1:1) before adding, stirring for 30min until uniformly mixing to obtain a phase A mixed solution, and cooling for later use.
(2) Adding 2 parts by weight of rutin and 1 part by weight of agave stem extract into the A phase mixed solution cooled to 65 ℃, keeping the temperature at 65 ℃, stirring at 400rpm for 30min, uniformly mixing to obtain an A/B phase mixed solution, and cooling for later use.
(3) Adding oligopeptide-1 0.5 weight part, flos Chrysanthemi extract 0.2 weight part, and herba Portulacae extract 0.2 weight part into the A/B phase mixture cooled to 40 deg.C, mixing at 500rpm for 30 min; and then adding 1 part by weight of the zanthoxylum piperitum extract and 1 part by weight of the Chinese pulsatilla root extract, further supplementing water to 100 parts by weight of the total amount due to the volatilization of water in the heating and stirring process, mixing and stirring for 30min, and discharging to obtain the anti-allergy repairing skin-care matrix.
Comparative example 4
The comparative example provides a skin care matrix with anti-allergy repair efficacy, the preparation method of which is as follows:
(1) starting stirring, adding 84.1 parts by weight of water, 4 parts by weight of 1, 3-propylene glycol and 6 parts by weight of glycerol into a stirring pot, stirring at 85 ℃ and 400rpm for 30min, then adding no penetration enhancer to obtain a phase A mixed solution, and cooling for later use.
(2) Adding 2 parts by weight of rutin and 1 part by weight of agave stem extract into the A phase mixed solution cooled to 65 ℃, keeping the temperature at 65 ℃, stirring at 400rpm for 30min, uniformly mixing to obtain an A/B phase mixed solution, and cooling for later use.
(3) Adding oligopeptide-1 0.5 weight part, flos Chrysanthemi extract 0.2 weight part, and herba Portulacae extract 0.2 weight part into the A/B phase mixture cooled to 40 deg.C, mixing at 500rpm for 30 min; and then adding 1 part by weight of the zanthoxylum piperitum extract and 1 part by weight of the Chinese pulsatilla root extract, further supplementing water to 100 parts by weight of the total amount due to the volatilization of water in the heating and stirring process, mixing and stirring for 30min, and discharging to obtain the anti-allergy repairing skin-care matrix.
Example 4 efficacy evaluation
1. Allergic irritation test: the age stage of the test is 20-50 years old, wherein the skin of 70 test persons is red sensitive skin or skin to be repaired by medical and aesthetic operations or skin which is not completely repaired (no new allergy, red swelling and spots appear), and the skin of the other 70 test persons has no obvious adverse symptoms. The average was divided into 7 groups, wherein each group was randomized to 10 subjects with reddish sensitive skin and 10 subjects without significant adverse symptoms of the skin, and each group was tried with the skin care bases prepared in examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 4, respectively. The skin care bases prepared in examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 4 were uniformly applied to the face, back of hand and abdomen of the subject, and the presence of adverse reactions such as redness and swelling, spots and the like was observed. After a large number of tests, the skin care bases of examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-4 showed no adverse or uncomfortable reactions such as allergic redness, spots, etc., indicating that the skin care bases of the present invention are safe.
2. The barrier properties of the skin are determined by the water content of the stratum corneum and by the Transepidermal water loss (TEWL, g/(cm)2H)), the higher the water content of the stratum corneum, the smaller the TEWL, the better the barrier function of the skin. Adopting a German noninvasive skin test instrument to test the water content of the horny layer of the skin and the water loss of the horny layer through the epidermis, and unifying the moisture content in a room without direct sunlight, wind and the room temperature of 25 ℃ and the humidity of 50-60 percentCleaning the skin of a subject, standing for 15min, testing, measuring the same part of the face for three times, and taking an average value. The correlation calculation formula is as follows:
Figure BDA0001675341820000081
Figure BDA0001675341820000091
the test method comprises the following steps: 80 sensitive skin subjects are randomly grouped, 10 persons are in each group, and the skin care matrixes prepared in the examples 1-3 and the comparative examples 1-4 are tried on the face of the groups 1-7 respectively and are smeared once in the morning and at night every day; group 8 was a blank control group, without any matrix, and the average transdermal water loss rate of each group of subjects was examined 28 days after trial.
The test results are shown in the following table:
test sample Percutaneous loss reduction ratio (%) Skin horny layer Water content increase ratio (%)
Skin care base of example 1 0.223421 0.378943
Skin care base of example 2 0.208342 0.386674
Skin care base of example 3 0.207963 0.387896
Skin care base of comparative example 1 0.243964 0.358324
Skin care base of comparative example 2 0.241832 0.367566
Skin care base of comparative example 3 0.239675 0.371643
Skin care base of comparative example 4 0.246873 0.352562
Blank control group 0.261702 0
Compared with the skin care matrixes prepared in the comparative examples 1 to 4, the skin care matrixes prepared in the examples 1 to 3 can better increase the water content of the skin and reduce the water loss rate through skin, which indicates that the skin care matrixes prepared in the examples 1 to 3 can better improve the transdermal absorption of the repairing efficacy components due to the addition of the composite transdermal absorption enhancer, thereby improving the repairing effect of the skin care matrixes on the barrier function of the skin and improving the barrier kinetic energy of the skin, thereby achieving better skin repairing efficacy. Comparative examples 1-3, which contained only one penetration enhancing ingredient, and comparative example 4, which lacked a penetration enhancing ingredient, produced skin care matrices that exhibited poor repair properties for skin barrier function.
3. Evaluation of repair efficacy
A total of 160 test subjects aged 20-50 years, all of whom had red and sensitive skin and had signs of redness, spots, damage, etc., were randomly divided into 8 groups of 20 subjects, each group having 1-7 tested the skin care bases prepared in examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-4, respectively, and group 8 was a blank control without any base. The facial skin of the subjects was tested separately. The skin care bases prepared in examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 4 were applied to the face of the subject 1 times in the morning and at night, and the effects of the two cycles were counted for evaluation of the skin of the subject. Meanwhile, during the use period, the user can avoid excessive spicy stimulation to food, quit smoking and alcohol and pay attention to avoid abusing cosmetics.
The curative effect standard is as follows:
and (3) healing: the skin redness and swelling and the like completely disappear, and the skin damage area is repaired and improved by 100 percent;
the effect is shown: the skin red swelling, damage and other performances are obviously improved, and the repair improvement of the skin damage area is more than or equal to 75 percent;
the method has the following advantages: the skin red swelling, damage and other surface conditions are improved, and the repair improvement of the skin damage area is more than or equal to 50 percent;
and (4) invalidation: those who do not meet the above clinical symptoms;
the total effective rate is the cure rate plus the significant efficiency.
The test results are shown in the following table:
test sample Recovery (human) Display effect (human) Effective (human) Invalid (human) Total effective rate
Skin care base of example 1 15 3 2 0 90%
Skin care base of example 2 18 1 1 0 95%
Skin care base of example 3 18 1 1 0 95%
Skin care base of comparative example 1 10 5 5 0 75%
Skin care base of comparative example 2 11 5 4 0 80%
Skin care base of comparative example 3 12 5 3 0 85%
Skin care base of comparative example 4 5 6 7 2 55%
Blank control group 1 2 4 13 15%
Compared with the skin care matrix prepared in the comparative examples 1 to 4, the skin care matrix prepared in the examples 1 to 3 has better repair curative effect on sensitive skin, and the composite percutaneous absorption enhancer of the invention is added into the skin care matrix, so that the percutaneous absorption of the repair effect component can be better improved, and the effect of the skin care matrix can be obviously improved. In addition, after two cycles, no significant adverse reactions occurred in all subjects.
The technical features of the embodiments described above may be arbitrarily combined, and for the sake of brevity, all possible combinations of the technical features in the embodiments described above are not described, but should be considered as being within the scope of the present specification as long as there is no contradiction between the combinations of the technical features.
The above-mentioned embodiments only express several embodiments of the present invention, and the description thereof is more specific and detailed, but not construed as limiting the scope of the invention. It should be noted that, for a person skilled in the art, several variations and modifications can be made without departing from the inventive concept, which falls within the scope of the present invention. Therefore, the protection scope of the present patent shall be subject to the appended claims.

Claims (10)

1. A skin-care matrix is characterized in that raw materials for preparing the skin-care matrix comprise a transdermal absorption enhancer and a skin-care composition;
the transdermal absorption enhancer is prepared from the following components in percentage by mass of 1: 0.5-1: 0.5-1 camellia seed oil, angelica sinensis extract and hexadecyl sulfobetaine;
the skin care composition comprises the following components in parts by weight:
Figure FDA0002641425590000011
2. the skin care matrix of claim 1, wherein the transdermal absorption enhancer is prepared from a mixture of a transdermal absorption enhancer and a skin permeation enhancer in a mass ratio of 1: 0.7-0.8, and the components of camellia seed oil, angelica sinensis extract and hexadecyl sulfobetaine.
3. The skin care matrix according to claim 2, wherein the transdermal absorption enhancer is added in the skin care matrix in an amount of 0.01 to 0.5%.
4. The skin care matrix according to claim 3, wherein the transdermal absorption enhancer is added in the skin care matrix in an amount of 0.2-0.5%.
5. The skin care matrix of claim 1, wherein the skin care composition comprises the following components in parts by weight:
Figure FDA0002641425590000012
6. the skin care matrix of claim 5, wherein the skin care composition further comprises the following components in parts by weight:
0.01-1 parts of Pelargonium graveolens extract, and/or
0.01-1 part of sophora flavescens root extract and/or
10.01-1 parts of oligopeptide.
7. The skin care matrix according to claim 5 or 6, wherein the skin care composition is present in the skin care matrix in an amount of from 0.2% to 15%.
8. The skin care matrix according to claim 5 or 6, wherein the raw materials for preparing the skin care matrix comprise the following components in percentage by weight:
Figure FDA0002641425590000013
Figure FDA0002641425590000021
9. a cosmetic, characterized in that the raw materials for preparing the cosmetic comprise the skin-care matrix of any one of claims 3 to 8 and other cosmetically acceptable auxiliary materials.
10. A method of making a skin care base according to claim 8 comprising the steps of:
uniformly dissolving a transdermal absorption enhancer in a mixed solvent to obtain a mixed solution of the transdermal absorption enhancer, wherein the mixed solvent comprises water, absolute ethyl alcohol and glycerol in a mass ratio of 4-6: 2-3: 1, and the mass ratio of the total mass of the transdermal absorption enhancer to the mixed solvent is 1: 0.8-1.2;
adding the rest of the water, the 1, 3-propylene glycol and the rest of the glycerol into a stirring pot, stirring and mixing uniformly at the temperature of 80-90 ℃, adding the mixed solution of the transdermal absorption enhancer, and stirring and mixing uniformly to obtain a phase A mixed solution;
when the temperature of the A-phase mixed solution is cooled to 60-70 ℃, adding a B-phase substance, and uniformly stirring to obtain an A/B-phase mixed solution; the phase B substance is the rutin and agave stem extract;
cooling the A/B mixed solution to 35-45 ℃, adding the C-phase substance, and uniformly stirring to obtain the A/B mixed solution; the phase C material is a preservative and components of the skin care composition other than rutin and agave stem extract.
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