CN108277570B - 一种功能梯度层针织布及其制备方法 - Google Patents

一种功能梯度层针织布及其制备方法 Download PDF

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CN108277570B
CN108277570B CN201810146605.XA CN201810146605A CN108277570B CN 108277570 B CN108277570 B CN 108277570B CN 201810146605 A CN201810146605 A CN 201810146605A CN 108277570 B CN108277570 B CN 108277570B
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knitted fabric
hemp
fabric
fiber
layer
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CN108277570A (zh
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郝新敏
刘辉
高明斋
张国君
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Institute of Quartermaster engineering technology, Academy of systems engineering, Academy of Military Sciences
WUHAN HEMP BIOLOGICAL TECHNOLOGY Co.,Ltd.
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种功能梯度层针织布及其制备方法。所述功能梯度层针织布的面层由化学纤维长丝织造得到，所述针织布的中间层和里层均由混纺纱线织造得到；所述混纺纱线为汉麻纤维、棉纤维和化学纤维的混纺纱线；所述混纺纱线中，所述汉麻纤维、所述棉纤维与所述化学纤维的质量比可为30～50：40～30：30～20；所述化学纤维为涤纶、锦纶、氨纶、粘胶纤维和莫代尔纤维中至少一种；所述汉麻纤维的质量百分含量为30％～50％。本发明的汉麻针织面料，面层以化纤长丝覆盖，增加了织物强力，提高了面料的快干性、透气性，改善了面料的抗起毛起球性能。本发明的汉麻针织面料，里层以棉麻纱贴近皮肤，增强了织物的吸汗性、干爽性和卫生性，吸水后快速导走。

Description

一种功能梯度层针织布及其制备方法
技术领域
本发明涉及一种纺织面料及其制备方法，具体涉及一种功能梯度层针织布及其制备方法。
背景技术
针织面料具有质地柔软、吸湿透气、优良的弹性与延伸性及其可生产性。针织服饰穿着舒适、贴身和体、无拘紧感、能充分体现人体曲线。现代针织面料更加丰富多彩，已经进入多功能化和高档化的发展阶段，各种肌理效应、不同功能的新型针织面料开发出来，给针织品带来前所未有的感官效果和视觉效果。
申请号为200910078967.0的“一种汉麻针织面料”的发明专利申请中公开了一种汉麻针织面料，包括汉麻混纺纱的制备方法。在此文件中，所述汉麻混纺纱支数为60～21S，所述汉麻混纺纱的混纺重量百分比为：汉麻50～60％；棉40～50％。选用棉、莫代尔、粘胶等几种韧性良好的纤维，与汉麻纤维进行各种组合配纱混纺，以削弱混纺纱线的刚性，增强了针织面料汉麻用纱的可行性，该发明还改善了汉麻针织面料的刺痒感问题。
但是，常规汉麻纤维混纺针织内衣产品，由于多采用汉麻与棉、粘胶、化纤短纤制成，由于内外纤维组成一致，使其功能性、耐用性和美观性受到影响。
汉麻作为绿色环保生态纤维，其面料除具有其他纤维不具备的天然抗菌、护肤保洁、屏蔽紫外线辐射、吸湿排汗、柔软舒适、吸附异味和耐磨等独特性能外，还具备尊贵高雅、朴实无华、自然实用等风格。因此，汉麻面料日渐成为高级服装设计师手中的理想面料。
汉麻纤维弯曲和扭转刚度大，长度整齐度差，短纤维较多，短绒含量高，抱合力小，可纺性差，纤维头端易弹出纱体，毛羽多，硬而长，无法纺织高支纱；纯汉麻纱硬、脆、直，存在单强低、麻结多等缺陷，造成弯纱、成圈困难，编织时断纱和疵点多，不宜脱套，面料的光洁度、柔软度、悬垂性较差；并有麻皮、并丝和硬条等杂质。所以在纺纱之前，需要进行开松处理，去除杂质和短绒，采用柔软、韧性较好的纤维与之混纺，在不影响汉麻性能的前提下，做到优势互补。
发明内容
本发明的目的是提供一种功能梯度层针织布及其制备方法，本发明提供的针织布具有抗菌防臭、吸湿快干、吸附异味、防霉防螨等特性，提高了现有汉麻针织面料的柔软性、保型性、吸湿快干性和穿用舒适性；本发明提供的制备方法为一种低碳环保染整工艺，保证了产品长期色变小，减少了化学整理剂的使用，又保证了产品天然抗菌防霉防臭、吸湿快干等性能的发挥。
本发明所提供的一种功能梯度层针织布，所述针织布的面层由化学纤维长丝织造得到，所述针织布的中间层和里层均由混纺纱线织造得到；
所述混纺纱线为汉麻纤维、棉纤维和化学纤维的混纺纱线。
本发明功能梯度层针织布采用吸湿快干、异形截面化学纤维长丝的织造布作为面层，起到散失、快干的作用，采用汉麻纤维、棉纤维和化学纤维的混纺纱线的织造布作为中间层和里层，起到吸湿导湿的作用。
本发明功能梯度层针织布为三层结构，为珠地或网眼组织。
上述的功能梯度层针织布，所述混纺纱线中，所述汉麻纤维、所述棉纤维与所述化学纤维的质量比可为30～50：40～30：30～20，具体可为35：40：25。
上述的功能梯度层针织布，所述化学纤维可为涤纶、锦纶、氨纶、粘胶纤维和莫代尔纤维中至少一种。
上述的功能梯度层针织布，所述针织布中，所述汉麻纤维的质量百分含量可为30％～50％。
上述的功能梯度层针织布，所述混纺纱线的纱线支数可为21～54S；所述化学纤维长丝的细度可为100～300D。
本发明还提供了上述针织布的制备方法，包括如下步骤：
(1)制备针织布：
将所述化学纤维长丝进行织造得到的织造布作为所述针织布的面层，将所述混纺纱进行织造得到的针织布分别作为所述针织布的中间层和里层；
(2)将所述针织布进行前处理，然后经后整理即得所述功能梯度针织布。
上述的制备方法中，所述前处理包括依次进行的浸精练酶、煮练和漂白。
所述浸精练酶可在常规的条件下进行，如在下述条件下进行：漂底溶液以2℃/min的速度升高至98℃，保持漂底溶液温度漂底40分钟，然后漂底溶液再以2℃/min的速度降低至20℃，保持漂底溶液温度煮练水洗30分钟；漂底溶液的配方：精练酶GJB：水＝1：100(质量比)。
所述煮炼可在常规的条件下进行，如采用的助剂为：NaOH、Na2SO3和Na2SiO3，浓度分别可为10g/L、4g/L或3g/L，浴比可为1：20，温度可为85℃，时间可为120min。
所述漂白可在常规的条件下进行，如在10g/L的H2O2中进行，浴比可为1：20，pH值可为10～11，时间可为120min。
上述的制备方法中，所述后整理步骤包括依次进行的染色、皂煮和加软步骤。
根据需要采用相应的染料，如采用活性红3BS、活性兰B-RV和活性黄B-4RFN，所述染色过程中可加入元明粉和纯碱。
所述皂煮可采用常规的皂煮剂，如净洗剂DS-502，所述皂煮可在90℃～100℃的条件下进行10～20min，如在95℃下进行15min。
所述加软步骤可在中和酸和亲水性柔软剂存在的条件下进行，所述中和酸可为醋酸，所述加软步骤可在30℃～50℃的条件下进行10～20min，如在40℃下进行20min。
所述亲水性柔软剂可为亲水性氨基硅织物整理剂，如CNSOFT T505，可应用于棉、毛、化纤及其混纺织物的柔软处理，赋予织物柔软、滑爽的手感，以及优良的抗静电性能和亲水性，其加入量可为织物重量的1～5％，浴比为1：10～20，浸渍时间30～60分钟，浴液的温度35±5℃。
本发明与已有技术相比，具有如下优点：
(1)汉麻是一种生态友好和经济适用的纤维资源。在当今耕地面积越来越缩减的形式下，广泛应用汉麻纤维，对于建设资源节约型、环境友好型社会有着深刻意义。
(2)选用棉、涤纶、氨纶、锦纶、莫代尔等与汉麻混纺，削弱混纺纱线的刚性，增强针织面料汉麻用纱的可行性。
(4)本发明的汉麻针织面料，面层以化纤长丝覆盖，增加了织物强力，提高了面料的快干性、透气性，改善了面料的抗起毛起球性能。
(5)本发明的汉麻针织面料，里层以棉麻纱贴近皮肤，增强了织物的吸汗性、干爽性和卫生性，吸水后快速导走。
(6)本发明的功能梯度层针织面料，吸湿快干、强度高、表面光洁、保形性好、抗菌防臭、具有梯度导湿功能。
(7)本发明的低碳环保染整工艺，减少了化学整理剂的使用，同时保证了产品天然抗菌防霉防臭、吸湿快干等性能的发挥。
具体实施方式
下述实施例中所使用的实验方法如无特殊说明，均为常规方法。
下述实施例中所用的材料、试剂等，如无特殊说明，均可从商业途径得到。
实施例1、功能梯度针织布及其性能测试
1、制备针织布
用于里层和中间层的：
汉麻/棉/涤纶混纺纱线的比例为：汉麻35％，棉40％，涤纶25％；纱线线密度为29Tex。
用于外层的：
100％吸湿快干涤纶长丝，细度为：150D。
2、对针织布进行前处理和后整理
前处理包括如下依次进行的浸酶、煮练和漂白步骤。
浸酶工艺为：
a、漂底溶液配方：精练酶GJB：水＝1：100(质量比)。
b、浸酶工艺过程：漂底溶液以2℃/min的速度升高至98℃，保持漂底溶液温度漂底40分钟，然后漂底溶液再以2℃/min的速度降低至20℃，保持漂底溶液温度煮练水洗30分钟。
煮练工艺为：
a：工艺配方如表1中所示
表1煮炼采用助剂的配方
助剂名称 浓度(g/L)
NaOH 10
Na<sub>2</sub>SO<sub>3</sub> 4
Na<sub>2</sub>SiO<sub>3</sub> 3
b、工艺条件：
浴比：1:20，
溶液温度：85℃，
煮练时间：120min。
漂白工艺为：
a、H2O2浓度：10g/L；
b、浴比：1：20，
c、PH值：10.5，
d、漂白时间：120min。
后整理工艺如表2中所示。
表2后整理工艺
Figure BDA0001578999430000051
本实施例制备的针织布中汉麻纤维的质量百分含量为35％。
性能测试结果：
(1)物理力学性能
表3本实施例制备的针织布的物理力学性能
Figure BDA0001578999430000052
由表3中数据可以看出，本发明提供的一种功能梯度层针织布具有良好的顶破强力、较少的纬向勾丝。
(2)吸湿快干性能
表4本实施例制备的针织布的吸湿快干性能
Figure BDA0001578999430000053
Figure BDA0001578999430000061
由表4中数据可以看出，本发明提供的一种功能梯度层针织布具有良好的吸湿快干功能。
本实施例制备的针织布的吸湿快干性能是按照下述方法进行测试：GB/T21665.1-2008纺织品吸湿速干性的评定；测得其：芯吸高度(直向)为58.3mm，透气率(100Pa)为1835mm/s，透湿量为1.36×104g/(m2·d)。
(3)抗菌性能(抑菌率)
表5本实施例制备的针织布的抗菌性能
Figure BDA0001578999430000062
由表5中数据可以看出，本发明提供的一种功能梯度层针织布对大肠杆菌、金黄色葡萄球菌等具有较强的抗菌性能。
本实施例制备的针织布的抗菌性能为：对金黄色葡萄球菌的抑菌率达到99％，对大肠杆菌的抑菌率达到91％，对白色念珠菌的抑菌率达到96％。

Claims (1)

1.一种功能梯度层针织布，其特征在于：所述针织布的面层由涤纶长丝织造得到，所述针织布的中间层和里层均由混纺纱线织造得到；
所述混纺纱线为汉麻纤维、棉纤维和涤纶的混纺纱线；所述混纺纱线中，所述汉麻纤维、所述棉纤维与所述涤纶的质量比为35：40：25；所述混纺纱线的线密度为29Tex；
所述涤纶长丝的细度为150D；
所述针织布的制备方法包括如下步骤：
（1）制备针织布
所述针织布的面层由涤纶长丝织造得到，所述针织布的中间层和里层均由混纺纱线织造得到；
（2）将所述针织布进行前处理，然后经后整理；
所述前处理包括依次进行的浸精练酶、煮练 和漂白步骤；
所述后整理步骤包括依次进行的染色、皂煮和加软步骤；
所述浸精练酶在下述条件下进行：漂底溶液以2℃/min的速度升高至98℃，保持漂底溶液温度漂底40分钟，然后漂底溶液再以2℃/min的速度降低至20℃，保持漂底溶液温度煮练水洗30分钟；漂底溶液的配方质量比为精练酶GJB：水＝1：100；
所述煮练 采用的助剂为：NaOH、Na2SO3和Na2SiO3，浓度分别为10g/L、4g/L和3g/L，浴比为1：20，温度为85℃，时间为120min；
所述漂白在10g/L的H2O2中进行，浴比为1：20，pH值为10.5，时间为120min；
后整理步骤中取物重34kg，采用水量500L；
所述染色采用150%活性红3BS 0.67g、活性兰B-RV 11.3g和活性黄B-4RFN 23g，元明粉5kg和纯碱3.5kg，喷嘴压力4.5kpa，转速为80m/min；
所述皂煮采用净洗剂DS-502 100ml，在95℃下进行15min；
所述加软步骤在中和酸和亲水性柔软剂存在的条件下进行，所述中和酸为醋酸200ml，亲水性柔软剂为柔软剂CNSOFT T505 450ml，所述加软步骤在40℃的条件下进行20min。
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