CN115179613A - 一种四面弹针织面料及其加工方法 - Google Patents

一种四面弹针织面料及其加工方法 Download PDF

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CN115179613A
CN115179613A CN202210942763.2A CN202210942763A CN115179613A CN 115179613 A CN115179613 A CN 115179613A CN 202210942763 A CN202210942763 A CN 202210942763A CN 115179613 A CN115179613 A CN 115179613A
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fibers
fabric
layer
weaving
surface layer
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王亮
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Ningbo Beilun Dingbangjiexiya Clothing Co ltd
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    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B5/00—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts
    • B32B5/02—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by structural features of a fibrous or filamentary layer
    • B32B5/08—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by structural features of a fibrous or filamentary layer the fibres or filaments of a layer being of different substances, e.g. conjugate fibres, mixture of different fibres
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    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B5/00—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts
    • B32B5/02—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by structural features of a fibrous or filamentary layer
    • B32B5/026—Knitted fabric
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    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B5/00—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts
    • B32B5/02—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by structural features of a fibrous or filamentary layer
    • B32B5/06—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by structural features of a fibrous or filamentary layer characterised by a fibrous or filamentary layer mechanically connected, e.g. by needling to another layer, e.g. of fibres, of paper
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    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
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    • B32B5/00—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts
    • B32B5/22—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by the presence of two or more layers which are next to each other and are fibrous, filamentary, formed of particles or foamed
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/16—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/18—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B21/00—Successive treatments of textile materials by liquids, gases or vapours
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
    • D06C7/02—Setting
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2250/00—Layers arrangement
    • B32B2250/03—3 layers
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2250/00—Layers arrangement
    • B32B2250/20—All layers being fibrous or filamentary
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2262/00—Composition or structural features of fibres which form a fibrous or filamentary layer or are present as additives
    • B32B2262/02—Synthetic macromolecular fibres
    • B32B2262/0261—Polyamide fibres
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2262/00—Composition or structural features of fibres which form a fibrous or filamentary layer or are present as additives
    • B32B2262/02—Synthetic macromolecular fibres
    • B32B2262/0292—Polyurethane fibres
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2262/00—Composition or structural features of fibres which form a fibrous or filamentary layer or are present as additives
    • B32B2262/04—Cellulosic plastic fibres, e.g. rayon
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2262/00—Composition or structural features of fibres which form a fibrous or filamentary layer or are present as additives
    • B32B2262/06—Vegetal fibres
    • B32B2262/062—Cellulose fibres, e.g. cotton
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2262/00—Composition or structural features of fibres which form a fibrous or filamentary layer or are present as additives
    • B32B2262/14—Mixture of at least two fibres made of different materials
    • B32B2262/152—Knitted fabric
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2307/00—Properties of the layers or laminate
    • B32B2307/50—Properties of the layers or laminate having particular mechanical properties
    • B32B2307/51—Elastic

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Abstract

本发明提供了一种四面弹针织面料及其加工方法，该面料从内到外依次包括内层、中间层和表层；所述内层由莫尔代纤维和棉纤维混纺编织而成，其中莫尔代纤维占比为35‑45％，棉纤维占比为55‑65％；所述中间层由弹力纱编织而成；所述内层与中间层通过氨纶单丝连接；所述表层由棉纤维和锦纶纤维混纺编织而成，其中棉纤维占比为45‑55％，锦纶纤维占比为45‑55％；所述表层和中间层通过氨纶单丝连接。通过本发明提供的加工方法织造的面料具有良好的弹性，且弹性回复性佳，在提高面料整体弹性的同时还可具有更大的运动延展性和自由舒适性，另外还能使面料保持优良的触感。

Description

一种四面弹针织面料及其加工方法
技术领域
本发明涉及面料纺织的技术领域，尤其涉及一种四面弹针织面料及其加工方法。
背景技术
随着人们生活条件的不断改善，人们对着装布料的功能性选择要求也越来越高，除了要求布料有正常的保暖性及穿着舒适性外，还会考虑布料具有的其他更多性能。目前，研发人员在制作面料时首先会考虑面料的柔软性、吸湿排汗性、抗磨性、抗皱性等功能指标，因为很多面料在经过一定时间的穿着使用后会出现严重变形的现象，影响穿着舒适感及美观性。
而四面弹面料因其优异的弹性，可以适应人体的活动，随伸随缩，轻快舒适，而且也能保持服装的外部美观性，一般衣服的膝部和肘部等部位会因人体长时间的穿着或活动而无法在短时间内恢复原状，而导致上述部位的面料仍保持膝部和肘部弯曲时的形状而鼓起，而四面弹面料可以在短时间内恢复面料原有的形状，从而保持衣服在穿着过程中的美观性，因此该面料特别适合应用于运动及休闲服饰中。
虽然四面弹性功能面料具有一般面料所不具备的性能，但是因为其制作工艺比较复杂，制作过程较难控制，在生产过程中的每个细节均要求严谨，才能保证产品的功能达到最佳效果，因此风险较大，而且其生产成本较高，因此对四面弹性功能面料的制作工艺进行研究，具有极大的价值和意义。
发明内容
本发明的目的是针对现有技术中的不足，提供一种四面弹针织面料及其加工方法。
为实现上述目的，本发明采取的技术方案是：
本发明的第一方面是提供一种四面弹针织面料，该面料从内到外依次包括内层、中间层和表层；所述内层由莫尔代纤维和棉纤维混纺编织而成，其中莫尔代纤维占比为35-45％，棉纤维占比为55-65％；所述中间层由弹力纱编织而成；所述内层与中间层通过氨纶单丝连接；所述表层由棉纤维和锦纶纤维混纺编织而成，其中棉纤维占比为45-55％，锦纶纤维占比为45-55％；所述表层和中间层通过氨纶单丝连接。
进一步地，所述弹力纱包括氨纶丝，以及包覆在所述氨纶丝外周的化纤长丝。
进一步地，所述莫尔代纤维的细度为30D-50D。
进一步地，所述锦纶纤维的细度为50D-70D。
本发明的第二方面是提供一种如上所述面料的加工方法，包括以下步骤：
步骤一、编织：在纬编大圆机上进行内层、中间层和表层进行编织，得到坯布，内层采用莫尔代纤维和棉纤维，中间层采用弹力纱，表层采用棉纤维和锦纶纤维，所述内层中莫尔代纤维占比为35-45％，莫尔代纤维的细度为30D-50D，棉纤维占比为55-65％，所述表层中棉纤维占比为45-55％，锦纶纤维占比为45-55％，锦纶纤维的细度为50D-70D；
步骤二、染整：对步骤一所得的坯布进行煮漂、染色制得半成品四面弹针织面料；
步骤三、后整理：将步骤二制得的面料进行蒸化、水洗、柔软、拉幅定型，定型结束后得到四面弹针织面料。
进一步地，所述步骤二中，染中深色产品时使用palanilp非离子型染料，染浅色产品时使用Mibxct keton聚酯分散染料。
进一步地，所述步骤二中，染色过程中，室温下以2℃/min的速率升温至80-85℃，然后1.5℃/min的速率升温至95-100℃，保温5-10min，再以1.0℃/min的速率升温至110-115℃，保温30-55min后以1.5℃/min的速率降温，75℃以下排液至室温。
进一步地，所述步骤三中，面料在开幅定型机内定型，定型温度100℃-150℃，车速10m/min-30m/min，超喂比25％-35％，风量100％，在定型的同时加入柔软剂。
本发明采用以上技术方案，与现有技术相比，具有如下技术效果：
通过本发明提供的加工方法织造的面料具有良好的弹性，且弹性回复性佳，在提高面料整体弹性的同时还可具有更大的运动延展性和自由舒适性，另外还能使面料保持优良的触感。
具体实施方式
下面具体实施例对本发明作进一步说明，但不作为本发明的限定。需要说明的是，在不冲突的情况下，本发明中的实施例及实施例中的特征可以相互组合。
实施例1
本实施例提供一种四面弹针织面料的加工方法，包括以下步骤：
步骤一、编织：在纬编大圆机上进行内层、中间层和表层进行编织，得到坯布，内层采用莫尔代纤维和棉纤维，中间层采用弹力纱，表层采用棉纤维和锦纶纤维，所述内层中莫尔代纤维占比为45％，莫尔代纤维的细度为30D，棉纤维占比为55％，所述表层中棉纤维占比为45％，锦纶纤维占比为55％，锦纶纤维的细度为50D；
步骤二、染整：对步骤一所得的坯布进行煮漂、染色制得半成品四面弹针织面料；
步骤三、后整理：将步骤二制得的面料进行蒸化、水洗、柔软、拉幅定型，定型结束后得到四面弹针织面料。
作为一个优选例，所述步骤二中，染中深色产品时使用Palanilp非离子型染料，染浅色产品时使用Mibxct keton聚酯分散染料。
作为一个优选例，所述步骤二中，染色过程中，室温下以2℃/min的速率升温至80-85℃，然后1.5℃/min的速率升温至95-100℃，保温5-10min，再以1.0℃/min的速率升温至110-115℃，保温30-55min后以1.5℃/min的速率降温，75℃以下排液至室温。
作为一个优选例，所述步骤三中，面料在开幅定型机内定型，定型温度100℃-150℃，车速10m/min-30m/min，超喂比25％-35%，风量100%，在定型的同时加入柔软剂。
实施例2
本实施例提供一种四面弹针织面料的加工方法，包括以下步骤：
步骤一、编织：在纬编大圆机上进行内层、中间层和表层进行编织，得到坯布，内层采用莫尔代纤维和棉纤维，中间层采用弹力纱，表层采用棉纤维和锦纶纤维，所述内层中莫尔代纤维占比为40％，莫尔代纤维的细度为40D，棉纤维占比为60％，所述表层中棉纤维占比为50％，锦纶纤维占比为50％，锦纶纤维的细度为60D；
步骤二、染整：对步骤一所得的坯布进行煮漂、染色制得半成品四面弹针织面料；
步骤三、后整理：将步骤二制得的面料进行蒸化、水洗、柔软、拉幅定型，定型结束后得到四面弹针织面料。
作为一个优选例，所述步骤二中，染中深色产品时使用Palanilp非离子型染料，染浅色产品时使用Mibxct keton聚酯分散染料。
作为一个优选例，所述步骤二中，染色过程中，室温下以2℃/min的速率升温至80-85℃，然后1.5℃/min的速率升温至95-100℃，保温5-10min，再以1.0℃/min的速率升温至110-115℃，保温30-55min后以1.5℃/min的速率降温，75℃以下排液至室温。
作为一个优选例，所述步骤三中，面料在开幅定型机内定型，定型温度100℃-150℃，车速10m/min-30m/min，超喂比25％-35％，风量100％，在定型的同时加入柔软剂。
实施例3
本实施例提供一种四面弹针织面料的加工方法，包括以下步骤：
步骤一、编织：在纬编大圆机上进行内层、中间层和表层进行编织，得到坯布，内层采用莫尔代纤维和棉纤维，中间层采用弹力纱，表层采用棉纤维和锦纶纤维，所述内层中莫尔代纤维占比为35％，莫尔代纤维的细度为30D，棉纤维占比为65％，所述表层中棉纤维占比为55％，锦纶纤维占比为45%，锦纶纤维的细度为70D；
步骤二、染整：对步骤一所得的坯布进行煮漂、染色制得半成品四面弹针织面料；
步骤三、后整理：将步骤二制得的面料进行蒸化、水洗、柔软、拉幅定型，定型结束后得到四面弹针织面料。
作为一个优选例，所述步骤二中，染中深色产品时使用Palanilp非离子型染料，染浅色产品时使用Mibxct keton聚酯分散染料。
作为一个优选例，所述步骤二中，染色过程中，室温下以2℃/min的速率升温至80-85℃，然后1.5℃/min的速率升温至95-100℃，保温5-10min，再以1.0℃/min的速率升温至110-115℃，保温30-55min后以1.5℃/min的速率降温，75℃以下排液至室温。
作为一个优选例，所述步骤三中，面料在开幅定型机内定型，定型温度100℃-150℃，车速10m/min-30m/min，超喂比25％-35％，风量100％，在定型的同时加入柔软剂。
以上对本发明的具体实施例进行了详细描述，但其只作为范例，本发明并不限制于以上描述的具体实施例。对于本领域技术人员而言，任何对该实用进行的等同修改和替代也都在本发明的范畴之中。因此，在不脱离本发明的精神和范围下所作的均等变换和修改，都应涵盖在本发明的范围内。

Claims (8)

1.一种四面弹针织面料，其特征在于，该面料从内到外依次包括内层、中间层和表层；所述内层由莫尔代纤维和棉纤维混纺编织而成，其中莫尔代纤维占比为35-45％，棉纤维占比为55-65％；所述中间层由弹力纱编织而成；所述内层与中间层通过氨纶单丝连接；所述表层由棉纤维和锦纶纤维混纺编织而成，其中棉纤维占比为45-55％，锦纶纤维占比为45-55％；所述表层和中间层通过氨纶单丝连接。
2.根据权利要求1所述的四面弹针织面料，其特征在于，所述弹力纱包括氨纶丝，以及包覆在所述氨纶丝外周的化纤长丝。
3.根据权利要求1所述的四面弹针织面料，其特征在于，所述莫尔代纤维的细度为30D-50D。
4.根据权利要求1所述的四面弹针织面料，其特征在于，所述锦纶纤维的细度为50D-70D。
5.如权利要求1-4任一项所述的四面弹针织面料的加工方法，其特征在于，包括以下步骤：
步骤一、编织：在纬编大圆机上进行内层、中间层和表层进行编织，得到坯布，内层采用莫尔代纤维和棉纤维，中间层采用弹力纱，表层采用棉纤维和锦纶纤维，所述内层中莫尔代纤维占比为35-45％，棉莫尔代纤维的细度为30D-50D，纤维占比为55-65％，所述表层中棉纤维占比为45-55％，锦纶纤维占比为45-55％，锦纶纤维的细度为50D-70D；
步骤二、染整：对步骤一所得的坯布进行煮漂、染色制得半成品四面弹针织面料；
步骤三、后整理：将步骤二制得的面料进行蒸化、水洗、柔软、拉幅定型，定型结束后得到四面弹针织面料。
6.根据权利要求5所述面料的加工方法，其特征在于，所述步骤二中，染中深色产品时使用Palanilp非离子型染料，染浅色产品时使用Mibxct keton聚酯分散染料。
7.根据权利要求5所述面料的加工方法，其特征在于，所述步骤二中，染色过程中，室温下以2℃/min的速率升温至80-85℃，然后1.5℃/min的速率升温至95-100℃，保温5-10min，再以1.0℃/min的速率升温至110-115℃，保温30-55min后以1.5℃/min的速率降温，75℃以下排液至室温。
8.根据权利要求5所述面料的加工方法，其特征在于，所述步骤三中，面料在开幅定型机内定型，定型温度100℃-150℃，车速10m/min-30m/min，超喂比25％-35％，风量100％，在定型的同时加入柔软剂。
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