CN108374229B - 一种光致敏变色丝滑舒适性针织内衣面料及其制备方法 - Google Patents
一种光致敏变色丝滑舒适性针织内衣面料及其制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种光致敏变色丝滑舒适性针织内衣面料的制备方法,其制备方法包括:(1)将纳米竹碳纤维和圣麻纤维置于以丙酮为溶剂的3‑5wt%萘吡喃溶液中浸泡,烘干,制得竹麻混纺纤维;(2)将制备好的竹麻混纺纤维和可变色光敏纤维按比例混纺,合股加捻制成纱线,经处理得变色感光敏混纺纱线;(3)以变色感光敏混纺纱线为面纱,以锦纶长丝加氨纶丝包芯纱为地纱,制得光致敏变色丝滑舒适型针织内衣面料。采用本发明方法制备的光致敏变色丝滑舒适型针织内衣面料,光泽柔和、手感滑糯、轻盈飘逸,提高了内衣面料的抗皱性能、拉伸性能和压缩弹性;且可以在不同环境温度下呈现不同颜色,从而达到变色效果。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及纺织面料技术领域,尤其涉及一种光致敏变色丝滑舒适型针织内衣面料及其制备方法。
背景技术
随着生活质量的不断提高,人们对服用纺织品和服装的舒适性、功能性的需求日益扩大,尤其对针织内衣的卫生舒适性和质感亲肤性更受人们关注。质感亲肤性主要是指接触人体皮肤的内衣具有柔软、丝滑和弹性。舒适性主要是指织物能带走身上的汗水和体味,避免出汗后衣服沾在身上,产生不舒适感,因此要求面料能迅速将水汽和汗液传输到织物表面,快速蒸发后扩散到外界环境中,以保证面料的卫生性和舒适性。
针对丝滑舒适型内衣面料的需求和前景及人们对服装要求,也由简单的舒适、遮体的单一性逐渐向着功能的多元化方面转移,人们对着装的要求也越来越高,衣服的色彩也是大众关注的另一方面,色彩靓丽、个性化的衣服非常受大众的喜爱,但是,目前衣物布料色彩比较单一,不够新颖,而现有可以变色的衣服仅仅是采用有色丝交织而制成的在不同光线下可变色的布料,制作成本高,工艺非常复杂。因此,对具有个性化的光致敏变色丝滑舒适针织内衣高档面料的开发研究,符合时代的契机。
发明内容
本发明所要求解决的问题是针对现有技术中的上述问题,提出一种光致敏变色丝滑舒适型针织内衣面料及其制备方法。
本发明提供的光致敏变色丝滑舒适型针织内衣面料及其制备方法,是通过探索研究开发一种在太阳光和紫外光等的照射下颜色会发生可逆变化的光致敏变色纤维。以新型纤维素纤维长丝作为新型光致敏变色内衣材料的可行性,其目的旨在通过对核心技术的研究和工艺技术的攻关,攻克光致敏变色纤维长丝制作、纺纱、织造、染色、整理过程中的所有技术难题和技术关键;建立新型光致敏变色舒适型针织内衣测试标准;为开发新型光致敏变色丝滑舒适型内衣面料和推向市场提供技术及生产保障。
为实现上述目的,本发明采用以下技术方案:
本发明的第一个方面是提供一种光致敏变色丝滑舒适型针织内衣面料的制备方法,具体包括如下步骤:
(1)将纳米竹碳纤维和圣麻纤维置于以丙酮为溶剂的3-5wt%萘吡喃溶液中浸泡,同时进行超声震荡处理,洗涤后脱水烘干,制得竹麻混纺纤维;
(2)将制备好的竹麻混纺纤维和可变色光敏纤维按比例混纺,合股加捻制成纱线,依次经生物酶预处理、光致敏可变色染料染色和柔软后处理,得变色感光敏混纺纱线;
(3)以变色感光敏混纺纱线为面纱,以锦纶长丝加氨纶丝包芯纱为地纱,按照下述工艺进行织造:采用单面开幅针织大圆机,机号48针/24.8mm筒径748mm路数92F转速15r/min总针数4684针,所述面纱和地纱交织而成平针添纱组织,制得光致敏变色丝滑舒适型针织内衣面料。
进一步地,所述步骤(1)中纳米竹碳纤维和圣麻纤维质量比为4:1-6:1。
进一步地,所述步骤(2)中竹麻混纺纤维和可变色光敏纤维的质量比为2:1-5:1。
进一步地,所述步骤(3)地纱中锦纶长丝占总成分的80-95%,氨纶丝占总成分的5-20%;且所述锦纶长丝的细度为70D,所述氨纶丝的细度为40D。
进一步地,所述步骤(3)制得的光致敏变色丝滑舒适型针织内衣面料中所述面纱所占的重量百分比为55-65%,所述地纱所占的重量百分比为35%-45%。
进一步地,步骤(2)中可变色光敏纤维为光敏变色纤维材料,所述光敏变色纤维材料是粘胶纤维在具有光敏变色性化合物的溶液中经浸渍工艺制得的光敏变色纤维材料。
进一步优选地,所述光敏变色性化合物为偶氮类化合物、螺恶嗪化合物、螺吡喃类化合物中的一种或几种。
进一步优选地,所述浸渍工艺是将粘胶纤维堆置在光敏变色性化合物的溶液中,温度控制在40-60℃,压力为20-40MPa,时间为0.5-3小时。
进一步地,在步骤(2)中,对合股加捻后的预混纺纱线进行生物酶预处理的条件为:加入果胶酶3-5g/L、木聚糖酶3-4g/L,浴比1:5-10,处理温度50-55℃,处理时间0.5-2h;柔软处理时使用的油剂为苎麻油剂,所述苎麻油剂的用量为15-20g/L。
本发明的第二个方面是提供一种如上述所述方法制备的光致敏变色丝滑舒适型针织内衣面料。
本发明采用上述技术方案,与现有技术相比,具有如下技术效果:
本发明提供的光致敏变色丝滑舒适型针织内衣面料的制备方法,采用竹麻混纺与可变色感光敏纤维合股加捻预混纺纱线,再经生物酶预处理、光致敏可变色染料染色和柔软处理得变色感光敏混纺纱线,该方法充分发挥了竹麻纤维吸湿透气、抗菌抑菌的功能性,锦氨纤维舒适弹性,纤维素纤维柔软性,使得内衣面料的光泽柔和、手感滑糯、轻盈飘逸,且大大提高了面料的抗皱性能、拉伸性能和拉伸恢复弹性和压缩弹性;由于采用特异的可变色光敏纤维,使得面料可以在不同温度和光作用下产生互变异构、顺反异构、开环闭环反应,可逆化发生颜色变化,呈现不同颜色,从而达到变色效果,满足一些追求与众不同、标新立异的年轻人的需求;此外,该面料可拓宽在高档休闲、运动等面料领域的应用,进而提高了企业的国际竞争力。
附图说明
图1为本发明一种光致敏变色丝滑舒适型针织内衣面料的结构示意图。
具体实施方式
下面通过具体实施例对本发明进行详细和具体的介绍,以使更好的理解本发明,但是下述实施例并不限制本发明范围。
实施例1本实施提供一种光致敏变色丝滑舒适型针织内衣面料的制备方法,具体包括如下步骤:
(1)将纳米竹碳纤维和圣麻纤维按重量比4:1,置于以丙酮为溶剂的5wt%萘吡喃溶液中浸泡,同时进行超声震荡处理,洗涤后脱水烘干,制得竹麻混纺纤维;
(2)将制备好的竹麻混纺纤维和可变色光敏纤维的按质量比3:1进行混纺,合股加捻制成混纺纱线,依次经生物酶预处理、光致敏可变色染料染色和柔软处理,得变色感光敏混纺纱线;
其中,可变色光敏纤维为光敏变色纤维材料,所述光敏变色纤维材料是粘胶纤维在具有光敏变色性化合物的溶液中经浸渍工艺制得的光敏变色纤维材料;所述光敏变色性化合物为偶氮类化合物和螺恶嗪化合物;所述浸渍工艺是将粘胶纤维堆置在光敏变色性化合物的溶液中,温度控制在45℃,压力为25MPa,时间为0.5-2.5小时;对合股加捻后的预混纺纱线进行生物酶预处理的条件为:加入果胶酶5g/L、木聚糖酶4g/L,浴比1:6,处理温度52℃,处理时间1.5h;柔软处理时使用的油剂为苎麻油剂,所述苎麻油剂的用量为17g/L;
(3)如图1所示,以变色感光敏混纺纱线为面纱10,以锦纶长丝加氨纶丝包芯纱为地纱20,按照下述工艺进行织造:单面开幅针织大圆机,机号48针/24.8mm筒径748mm路数92F转速15r/min总针数4684针,所述面纱10和地纱20交织而成平针添纱组织,制得光致敏变色丝滑舒适型针织内衣面料。
所述步骤(3)地纱中锦纶长丝占总成分的80%,氨纶丝占总成分的20%;且所述锦纶长丝的细度为70D,所述氨纶丝的细度为40D;制得的光致敏变色丝滑舒适型针织内衣面料中所述面纱所占的重量百分比为58%,所述地纱所占的重量百分比为42%。
实施例2本实施提供一种光致敏变色丝滑舒适型针织内衣面料的制备方法,具体包括如下步骤:
(1)将纳米竹碳纤维和圣麻纤维按重量比6:1,置于以丙酮为溶剂的4wt%萘吡喃溶液中浸泡,同时进行超声震荡处理,洗涤后脱水烘干,制得竹麻混纺纤维;
(2)将制备好的竹麻混纺纤维和可变色光敏纤维的按质量比5:1进行混纺,合股加捻制成混纺纱线,依次经生物酶预处理、光致敏可变色染料染色和柔软后处理,得变色感光敏混纺纱线;
其中,可变色光敏纤维为光敏变色纤维材料,所述光敏变色纤维材料是粘胶纤维在具有光敏变色性化合物的溶液中经浸渍工艺制得的光敏变色纤维材料;所述光敏变色性化合物为偶氮类化合物、螺恶嗪化合物、螺吡喃类化合物中的一种或几种;所述浸渍工艺是将粘胶纤维堆置在光敏变色性化合物的溶液中,温度控制在60℃,压力为30MPa,时间为1小时;对合股加捻后的预混纺纱线进行生物酶预处理的条件为:加入果胶酶3g/L、木聚糖酶4g/L,浴比1:8,处理温度50℃,处理时间1.2h;柔软处理时使用的油剂为苎麻油剂,所述苎麻油剂的用量为15g/L;
(3)以变色感光敏混纺纱线为面纱,以锦纶长丝加氨纶丝包芯纱为地纱,按照下述工艺进行织造:单面开幅针织大圆机机号48针/24.8mm筒径748mm路数92F转速15r/min总针数4684针,所述面纱和地纱交织而成平针添纱组织,制得光致敏变色丝滑舒适型针织内衣面料。
所述步骤(3)地纱中锦纶长丝占总成分的85%,氨纶丝占总成分的15%;且所述锦纶长丝的细度为70D,所述氨纶丝的细度为40D;制得的光致敏变色丝滑舒适型针织内衣面料中所述面纱所占的重量百分比为60%,所述地纱所占的重量百分比为40%。
实施例3本实施提供一种光致敏变色丝滑舒适型针织内衣面料的制备方法,具体包括如下步骤:
(1)将纳米竹碳纤维和圣麻纤维按重量比6:1,置于以丙酮为溶剂的5wt%萘吡喃溶液中浸泡,同时进行超声震荡处理,洗涤后脱水烘干,制得竹麻混纺纤维;
(2)将制备好的竹麻混纺纤维和可变色光敏纤维的按质量比4:1进行混纺,合股加捻制成混纺纱线,依次经生物酶预处理、可变色光敏染料染色和柔软后处理,得变色感光敏混纺纱线;
其中,可变色光敏纤维为光敏变色纤维材料,所述光敏变色纤维材料是粘胶纤维在具有光敏变色性化合物的溶液中经浸渍工艺制得的光敏变色纤维材料;所述光敏变色性化合物为偶氮类化合物、螺恶嗪化合物、螺吡喃类化合物中的一种或几种;所述浸渍工艺是将粘胶纤维堆置在光敏变色性化合物的溶液中,温度控制在55℃,压力为40MPa,时间为1.5小时;对合股加捻后的预混纺纱线进行生物酶预处理的条件为:加入果胶酶5g/L、木聚糖酶4g/L,浴比1:10,处理温度55℃,处理时间0.8h;柔软处理时使用的油剂为苎麻油剂,所述苎麻油剂的用量为18g/L;
(3)以变色感光敏混纺纱线为面纱,以锦纶长丝加氨纶丝包芯纱为地纱,按照下述工艺进行织造:单面开幅针织大圆机机号48针/24.8mm筒径748mm路数92F转速15r/min总针数4684针,所述面纱和地纱交织而成平针添纱组织,制得光致敏变色丝滑舒适型针织内衣面料。
所述步骤(3)地纱中锦纶长丝占总成分的95%,氨纶丝占总成分的5%;且所述锦纶长丝的细度为70D,所述氨纶丝的细度为40D;制得的光致敏变色丝滑舒适型针织内衣面料中所述面纱所占的重量百分比为65%,所述地纱所占的重量百分比为35%。
本发明实施例1-3制得的光致敏变色丝滑舒适型针织内衣面料,取得的主要技术指标包括:1)缩水率:直向-2.5%横向-3.5%;2)洗涤色牢度4-5级,耐汗渍牢度4-5级,耐水色牢度4-5级,干摩擦色牢度4-5级,湿摩擦牢度3级;3)破裂强度294N,4)抗起球3-4级,PH6.7;5)甲醛含量:≤50mg/kg。
因此,本发明提供的光致敏变色丝滑舒适型针织内衣面料具有成分配制合理、面料触感柔和、附有弹性的特点,且该内衣面料能根据光线的强弱变化自动变换表面颜色,满足了年轻人追求时尚、张扬个性的需要,在一定程度上减少了服饰的数量,降低了生活开支,具有优异的推广应用价值;此外,该内衣面料及其制备方法可拓宽在高档休闲、运动、服装服饰、帷幔等面料领域的应用,进而提高企业的国际竞争力。
以上对本发明的具体实施例进行了详细描述,但其只是作为范例,本发明并不限制于以上描述的具体实施例。对于本领域技术人员而言,任何对本发明进行的等同修改和替代也都在本发明的范畴之中。因此,在不脱离本发明的精神和范围下所作的均等变换和修改,都应涵盖在本发明的范围内。
Claims (7)
1.一种光致敏变色丝滑舒适型针织内衣面料的制备方法,其特征在于,包括:
(1)将纳米竹碳纤维和圣麻纤维置于以丙酮为溶剂的3-5wt%萘吡喃溶液中浸泡,同时进行超声震荡处理,洗涤后脱水烘干,制得竹麻混纺纤维;所述纳米竹碳纤维和圣麻纤维质量比为4:1-6:1;
(2)将制备好的竹麻混纺纤维和可变色光敏纤维按比例混纺,合股加捻制成纱线,依次经生物酶预处理、光致敏可变色染料染色和柔软后处理,得变色感光敏混纺纱线;所述竹麻混纺纤维和可变色光敏纤维的质量比为2:1-5:1;所述可变色光敏纤维为光敏变色纤维材料,所述光敏变色纤维材料是粘胶纤维在具有光敏变色性化合物的溶液中经浸渍工艺制得的光敏变色纤维材料;
(3)以变色感光敏混纺纱线为面纱,以锦纶长丝加氨纶丝包芯纱为地纱,按照下述工艺进行织造:采用单面开幅针织大圆机,机号48针/24.8mm,筒径748mm,路数92F,转速15r/min,总针数4684针,所述面纱和地纱交织而成平针添纱组织,制得光致敏变色丝滑舒适型针织内衣面料。
2.根据权利要求1所述的制备方法,其特征在于,步骤(3)地纱中锦纶长丝占总成分的80-95%,氨纶丝占总成分的5-20%;且所述锦纶长丝的细度为70D,所述氨纶丝的细度为40D。
3.根据权利要求1所述的制备方法,其特征在于,步骤(3)制得的光致敏变色丝滑舒适型针织内衣面料中所述面纱所占的重量百分比为55-65%,所述地纱所占的重量百分比为35%-45%。
4.根据权利要求1所述的制备方法,其特征在于,所述光敏变色性化合物为偶氮类化合物、螺恶嗪化合物、螺吡喃类化合物中的一种或几种。
5.根据权利要求1所述的制备方法,其特征在于,所述浸渍工艺是将粘胶纤维堆置在光敏变色性化合物的溶液中,温度控制在40-60℃,压力为20-40MPa,时间为0.5-3小时。
6.根据权利要求1所述的制备方法,其特征在于,在步骤(2)中,对合股加捻后的预混纺纱线进行生物酶预处理的条件为:加入果胶酶3-5g/L、木聚糖酶3-4g/L,浴比1:5-10,处理温度50-55℃,处理时间0.5-2h;柔软处理时使用的油剂为苎麻油剂,所述苎麻油剂的用量为15-20g/L。
7.如权利要求1-6任一项所述方法制备的光致敏变色丝滑舒适型针织内衣面料。
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