CN107737098B - Light-sensitive brightening whitening essence face cream and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Light-sensitive brightening whitening essence face cream and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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CN107737098B
CN107737098B CN201711167818.2A CN201711167818A CN107737098B CN 107737098 B CN107737098 B CN 107737098B CN 201711167818 A CN201711167818 A CN 201711167818A CN 107737098 B CN107737098 B CN 107737098B
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mixture
extract
cream
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CN107737098A (en
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向琼彪
李传茂
黄建珍
张伟杰
张楚标
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Guangdong Danz Group Co Ltd
Guangzhou Keneng Cosmetic Research Co Ltd
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Guangdong Dan Zi Group Co Ltd
GUANGZHOU BAIYUN LIANJIA FINE CHEMICALS FACTORY
Guangzhou Keneng Cosmetic Research Co Ltd
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    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
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    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
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    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
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    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • A61K8/673Vitamin B group
    • A61K8/675Vitamin B3 or vitamin B3 active, e.g. nicotinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl aldehyde
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
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    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
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    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
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    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
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    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations

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Abstract

The invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, and relates to a whitening face cream with light sensation and a preparation method thereof. The face cream contains powder bismuth oxychloride and titanium dioxide, and the combination of emulsifier dimyristyl phosphate, PPG-10 cetyl ether phosphate, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, polysorbate-80, sorbitan oleate, sodium polyacrylate and tridecyl alcohol polyether-6. The skin cream also contains thickener, film-forming agent, humectant, emollient, etc. According to the invention, a specific emulsifier is compounded with powder and other components to prepare the skin-beautifying cream which is fine, smooth and light in powder texture and has moisturizing and whitening effects.

Description

Light-sensitive brightening whitening essence face cream and preparation method thereof
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, and relates to a light-sensation brightening pigment cream with effects of whitening and brightening skin and fading fine lines and a preparation method thereof.
Background
In recent years, base makeup products such as BB cream, CC cream, air cushion cream and the like are very popular among people who love beauty because of the convenience in use and carrying and the effects of whitening, concealing, sun-screening and the like. However, with the rapid development of economy, the living standard of people is continuously improved, the requirements of people on skin care products are higher and higher, and the investigation of relevant organizations on Chinese facial care consumers shows that more than half of the consumers are troubled by skin problems of dark skin color, no luster and the like. The BB cream, the CC cream and the air cushion cream which are commercially available at present adopt the traditional powder film covering technology, and because the powder film is too thick, although flaws are perfectly covered, the refraction of light rays is blocked, so that the makeup looks dull and dull. In addition, the traditional BB cream, CC cream and air cushion cream mostly adopt a water-in-oil system, and have the defects of poor spreadability, heavy skin feel, pore blockage, difficulty in cleaning and the like. Therefore, traditional base make-up products such as BB cream, CC cream, air cushion cream and the like can not meet the requirements of modern consumers gradually.
Disclosure of Invention
Aiming at the problems of blocking, floating, easy makeup removal and the like of BB cream or CC cream in the prior art, the invention aims to provide a facial cream which can naturally whiten and conceal blemishes and has fine and smooth touch when being applied.
The invention also aims to provide the face beautifying cream which can replenish water, preserve moisture, improve skin elasticity, delay skin aging and keep the skin fresh and moist.
The invention also aims to provide a preparation method of the face cream.
The above object of the present invention is achieved by the following technical means:
in one aspect, the present invention provides a composition comprising the following components:
(1) 2% -7% of powder;
(2) 3% -8% of an emulsifier;
(3) 0.2% -4.5% of a thickening agent;
(4) 12% -25% of an emollient;
wherein the powder is selected from the combination of bismuth oxychloride and titanium dioxide (titanium dioxide). The titanium dioxide is one or a mixture of more than two of anatase type, brookite type or rutile type titanium dioxide, and rutile type titanium dioxide is more preferable; rutile type titanium dioxide is more stable and compact than anatase type titanium dioxide, has higher hardness, density, dielectric constant and refractive index, and has higher covering power and tinting strength. And the average particle diameter of the titanium dioxide is 10-300 nm; preferably 100-200 nm. The wavelength of the ultraviolet ray is 190-400 nm, when the particle size of the titanium dioxide is equal to or less than half of the wavelength of the light wave, the reflection and scattering amount of the light is maximum, and the shielding effect is best. Therefore, the average particle diameter of titanium dioxide is preferably 100-200 nm. Although titanium dioxide can provide concealer, and because its particles are fine, the finished product has high transparency, can transmit visible light, and has natural skin whiteness when added into cosmetics for use. However, when the titanium dioxide is used alone, the skin color is dark, the luster is not good, and the skin feel is astringent. In order to solve the problem, the inventor adopts one or a mixture of more than two of a plurality of light regulating agents such as bismuth oxychloride, synthetic fluorophlogopite or boron nitride to be compounded with titanium dioxide, and researches show that when the bismuth oxychloride is compounded with the titanium dioxide, the bismuth oxychloride can enhance the refraction of light, brighten the skin, improve the darkness, lighten fine lines and flaws and create a natural 3D contour makeup. In a preferred embodiment, the weight ratio of bismuth oxychloride to titanium dioxide is from 1:2 to 5; preferably 1: 3. Experiments prove that the ratio of the bismuth oxychloride to the titanium dioxide is higher than 1:2-5, the concealer effect of the skin is poorer than 1:2-5, and the skin is slightly dull: particularly, when the ratio of the bismuth oxychloride to the titanium dioxide is 1:3, not only can the optimal skin whiteness and concealer effect be provided, but also the skin glossiness and skin feeling experience are good. As a preferred embodiment, the average particle size of the bismuth oxychloride is 100-500 nm; more preferably, the average particle diameter of the bismuth oxychloride is 100-300 nm.
The composition of the invention also contains 0.1 to 1 weight percent of triethoxyoctylsilane which is used as a surface treating agent of titanium dioxide.
Wherein the emulsifier is selected from the group consisting of dimyristyl phosphate, PPG-10 cetyl ether phosphate, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, polysorbate-80, sorbitan oleate, sodium polyacrylate, tridecyl polyether-6. In the system of the invention, the selection of the powder plays an important role in the performance of the facial cream, but the selection of the proper emulsifier and the matching of the powder is very important and ingenious, depending on the actual adhesion degree, dispersion degree and push-open degree of the powder on the skin. Suitable emulsifiers may serve twice as a result of little effort in creating a natural makeup. According to the invention, the anionic surfactant is used as the emulsifier, the anionic emulsifier is beneficial to dispersing powder in an oil-in-water system and providing light and thin skin feel, and the emulsifier compounded with the polysorbate-80, sorbitan oleate, sodium polyacrylate and tridecyl alcohol polyether-6 has good self-thickening capability and provides cream texture, and meanwhile, the powder has better powder body-attaching property. In the experimental process, the inventor tries a plurality of emulsifier systems to form the pigment cream system of the invention, some formula systems are stable but have sticky skin feel, and some common emulsifiers for the concealer on the market can provide light, thin and moist texture but have unstable systems and easily coarsen powder. The invention selects a plurality of anionic emulsifiers, and ingeniously combines dimyristyl alcohol phosphate, PPG-10 cetyl ether phosphate, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, polysorbate-80, sorbitan oleate, sodium polyacrylate, tridecyl alcohol polyether-6 and specific powder to obtain the natural face cream which can enable skin to be transparent and bright. Patent CN106265475A also discloses a facial cream whose emulsifier is a mixture of two or more selected from sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer (and) isohexadecane (and) polysorbate-80, polysorbate-20 (tween-20), polyacrylate-13 (and) polyisobutylene (and) polysorbate-20, and sodium acrylate copolymer (and) lecithin. However, these emulsifiers are difficult to disperse the combination of powdered titanium dioxide of the present invention with bismuth oxychloride. The single self-thickening emulsifier is difficult to stabilize the powder, for example, the powder is easy to coarsen and separate out when the amount of the emulsifier is increased, the powder has poor dispersibility, and the phenomenon of jelly is easy to generate. The system adopts the combination of anionic emulsifier and self-thickening emulsifier, can well disperse powder by using less emulsifier, and simultaneously provides light, thin and moist texture.
As a preferred embodiment, the weight ratio of the emulsifier dimyristyl alcohol phosphate, PPG-10 cetyl ether phosphate, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, isohexadecane, polysorbate-80, sorbitan oleate, sodium polyacrylate, tridecyl alcohol polyether-6 is 2-6:0.5-2:1-3:0.5-2:0.5-2:1-3: 1-3; (ii) a Preferably, the weight ratio of seven is 4:1:2:1:1:2: 2.
Wherein said emollient is selected from the group consisting of PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate, dimethicone, and dimethiconol. The weight ratio of PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate to polydimethylsiloxane to dimethiconol is 1-2:2-4: 0.5-2; preferably, the weight percentage of PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate, polydimethylsiloxane, and dimethiconol is 2:3: 1. The emollient PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate has good affinity with powder, and can provide light skin feeling; the combination of the polydimethylsiloxane and the dimethiconol provides soft texture, the skin feel is soft and light when the polydimethylsiloxane and the dimethiconol are compounded, and meanwhile, the powder can be uniformly dispersed in the oil phase, so that the phenomena of aggregation, precipitation and the like of the powder in a finished product are solved.
Wherein, the thickening agent is not particularly limited, and the thickening agent commonly used in cosmetics in the prior art is only needed, such as one or more selected from acrylic acid (ester)/steareth-20 itaconate copolymer, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, carbomer and acryloyl dimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer; in a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the thickener is selected from one or a combination of acrylate/steareth-20-itaconate copolymer and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate.
As a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention further comprises 1% to 3% of a film-forming agent. The film forming agent is selected from at least one of trimethylsiloxy silicate, C30-38 olefin/isopropyl maleate/MA copolymer, and acrylate/stearyl alcohol acrylate/methyl dimethacrylate copolymer; more preferably trimethylsiloxysilicate.
According to the invention, the specific powder is reasonably matched with the emollient such as PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate and the like, the emulsifier such as dimyristyl phosphate, PPG-10 cetyl ether phosphate and the like, and the film-forming agent trimethylsiloxy silicate, so that the skin can be brightened, the blemishes can be naturally covered, fine lines and scars can be weakened, the spreadability and water resistance of the product can be improved, and the phenomena of card powder, floating powder and easiness in mud rubbing of the commercially available product can be improved.
As a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention further comprises at least one of a humectant, a neutralizing agent, and a skin conditioning agent in an amount of 8% to 25% by weight, 0.2% to 4.5% by weight, and 0.1% to 5% by weight; more preferably, the skin conditioner contains all combinations of humectants, neutralizers, film formers, and skin conditioners.
As an illustrative example, the humectant is at least one selected from the group consisting of glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, xylitol, sodium hyaluronate, betaine, D-panthenol, and erythritol; more preferred is a combination of butylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate, betaine, glycerol and D-panthenol.
As an illustrative example, the neutralizing agent is at least one selected from the group consisting of aminomethyl propanol, potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, and arginine; more preferably aminomethyl propanol.
In a preferred embodiment, the skin conditioner is selected from one or more of Boleter spirulina extract, Ulva lactuca extract, bearberry leaf extract, Glycyrrhizae radix extract, papaya fruit extract, cherry blossom extract, rice chaff extract, and nicotinamide; more preferably a combination of oriental cherry extract, ulva extract, borna spirulina extract, rice chaff extract, and nicotinamide. Furthermore, the weight ratio of the cherry blossom extract, the ulva extract, the bofenate spirulina extract, the rice chaff extract and the nicotinamide is as follows: 2:1:1:1:4.
The cherry extract has good effects of shrinking pores and balancing grease, contains abundant natural vitamin A, B, E, and the cherry leaf flavone also has the effects of maintaining beauty and keeping young, strengthening mucous membrane and promoting sugar metabolism, and can be used for keeping young skin of the youth.
The ulva extract is rich in ulvan, and can provide moisture keeping effect for stratum corneum and regulate stratum corneum properties. The ulvan can retain water and promote the transportation of nutrients. The ulva extract also has whitening effect.
The Bonnate Spirulina extract has effects of resisting radiation, whitening skin, moistening skin, reducing wrinkle, and preventing pigmentation and speckle.
The rice chaff extract has antioxidant, nourishing, moisturizing and anti-wrinkle effects. Nicotinamide can inhibit melanin formation, has whitening effect, and can inhibit skin photoaging. In addition, it has antiinflammatory and antioxidant effects, and can be used for treating acne and dermatitis.
Through the addition of the skin conditioner, the composition disclosed by the invention not only has a natural concealing effect, but also has the effects of inhibiting the formation of melanin, preventing the oxidative hydrolysis of collagen and elastin, whitening the skin, eliminating color spots, enhancing the elasticity of the skin, preventing and reducing the generation of skin wrinkles and delaying skin aging.
The composition also contains 0.02 to 0.6 weight percent of aromatizer, 0.1 to 0.8 weight percent of preservative and 0.02 to 0.2 weight percent of chelating agent; the conventional cosmetic contains common perfume, antiseptic and chelating agent.
The remaining component of the composition of the present invention is deionized water.
In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises the following components:
Figure BDA0001476632940000051
Figure BDA0001476632940000061
preferably, the composition comprises the following components in percentage by weight:
Figure BDA0001476632940000062
Figure BDA0001476632940000071
in the formula, the thickening agent can be one or more of acrylate/steareth-20 itaconate copolymer, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, carbomer and acryloyl dimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer; in a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the thickener is selected from one or a combination of acrylate/steareth-20-itaconate copolymer and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate.
The film forming agent is selected from at least one of trimethylsiloxy silicate, C30-38 olefin/isopropyl maleate/MA copolymer, and acrylate/stearyl alcohol acrylate/methyl dimethacrylate copolymer; more preferably trimethylsiloxysilicate.
The humectant is at least one selected from glycerol, propylene glycol, butanediol, xylitol, sodium hyaluronate, betaine, D-panthenol and erythritol; more preferred is a combination of butylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate, betaine, glycerol and D-panthenol.
The neutralizing agent is selected from aminomethyl propanol, potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, arginine and the like.
The preservative is selected from methyl hydroxybenzoate, propyl hydroxybenzoate and phenoxyethanol.
The chelating preventing agent is disodium EDTA.
The flavoring agent is essence.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the face cream, which comprises the following steps:
s1, stirring and heating the humectant and the preservative to 75-85 ℃ at the rotating speed of 800-.
S2, stirring and heating water, the chelating agent, the thickening agent, the hyaluronic acid, the nicotinamide and the like to 75-85 ℃ at the rotating speed of 800-1200r/min, and stirring to completely dissolve the materials uniformly to obtain a second mixture for later use.
S3, uniformly mixing the oily emollient, the emulsifier, the film-forming agent, the titanium dioxide and the bismuth oxychloride, grinding the mixture on a grinding machine, stirring and heating the mixture to 75-85 ℃ at the rotating speed of 800-.
S4, adding the first mixture into the third mixture, uniformly stirring at the rotation speed of 1000-.
S5, adding the second mixture into the fourth mixture, homogenizing for 5-10 minutes at the rotating speed of 2500-.
S6, stirring the fifth mixture obtained in the step 5 at the rotating speed of 800-.
The composition disclosed by the invention is used for the face cream, and integrates the effects of color cosmetics and skin care. The invention has the beneficial effects that:
1. the pigment cream disclosed by the invention is compounded by adopting titanium dioxide and bismuth oxychloride in a specific proportion, so that a good defect covering effect can be achieved, and more beneficially, fine flaky photosensitive particle bismuth oxychloride (which is irregular flaky extension of a layered crystal structure) is compounded by utilizing a unique light regulation and control technology, namely mirror reflection enhanced by a high-refractive-index smooth sheet, and is cooperated with reflection of ultraviolet rays by titanium dioxide, so that the transparency of powder is improved, thus the skin is transparent, the darkness is improved, fine lines and defects are reduced, the whiteness of the skin is natural, and a natural and makeup-free defect covering effect is created. At the same time it has a very soft and liquid-like skin feel, hydrophobicity (water repellency) and/or lipophilicity (affinity for oils), high adhesion to the skin.
2. More particularly, the present invention finds, among the numerous optional emulsifiers, dimyristyl phosphate and PPG-10 cetyl ether phosphate, which are emulsifiers capable of effectively dispersing titanium dioxide and bismuth oxychloride. And the product is reasonably matched with an emollient such as PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate and the like and a trimethylsiloxy silicate film forming agent, and meanwhile, the spreadability and water resistance of the product are improved, and the phenomena of card powder, floating powder and easy mud rubbing of a commercially available product are improved.
3. The cherry extract, the Bernard spirulina extract and the ulva extract which are skin conditioners have the antioxidant effect, can inhibit the formation of melanin, prevent the oxidative hydrolysis of collagen and elastin, whiten skin, eliminate color spots, enhance the elasticity of skin, prevent and reduce the generation of skin wrinkles and delay skin aging.
4. The invention adopts reasonable compounding of a plurality of humectants, so that the skin of the product is light, moist and durable, and the phenomena of skin dryness, desquamation and powder falling do not exist after the product is used. The rice chaff extract used in the invention is a natural plant ceramide, can enhance the barrier function of the skin, nourish the skin, keep the moisture of the skin and prevent the skin from being damaged from the outside.
5. The skin-care cream is a fresh and moist oil-in-water system, can provide fine and smooth smearing feeling, keep the moisture balance of the skin, enhance the elasticity of the skin, delay the skin aging and reduce the generation of wrinkles. The composition disclosed by the invention is used for the face cream, and integrates the effects of color cosmetics and skin care.
In conclusion, the light-sensitive whitening essence facial cream disclosed by the invention adopts bismuth oxychloride as a light regulating agent, and titanium dioxide, PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate, trimethylsiloxy silicate and dimyristyl phosphate (and) PPG-10 cetyl ether phosphate are reasonably compounded, so that the skin feel is light and moist, and the light-sensitive whitening essence facial cream has excellent spreadability, waterproofness and natural and durable make-up fixing ability. The phenomena of floating powder, blocking powder, kneading mud and the like of the products sold in the market after use are improved. The rice chaff extract, the oriental cherry extract, the bofenate spirulina extract and the ulva extract are matched, so that the barrier function of skin can be enhanced, the formation of melanin is inhibited, the oxidative hydrolysis of collagen and elastin is prevented, the skin can be moistened and moisturized permanently, the skin is lightened, color spots are eliminated, the skin elasticity is enhanced, the generation of skin wrinkles is prevented and reduced, and the skin aging is delayed.
Drawings
FIG. 1A changes in moisture content of skin between 20 and 25 years of age;
FIG. 1B changes in moisture content of 25-30 year old skin;
FIG. 1C moisture content change of skin between 30 and 35 years old;
figure 2 skin moisture content growth rate changes for example 1 and different commercial skin creams.
Detailed Description
The technical solutions of the present invention are further illustrated by the following specific examples, which do not represent limitations to the scope of the present invention. Insubstantial modifications and adaptations of the present invention by others of the concepts fall within the scope of the invention. The raw materials used in the present invention are all commercially available.
Example 1A light-sensitive whitening skin cream
A light-sensitive whitening face cream comprises the following components in percentage by weight, and is specifically shown in Table 1.
TABLE 1 light-sensitive whitening face cream
Figure BDA0001476632940000091
Figure BDA0001476632940000101
A preparation method of a light-sensitive whitening face cream comprises the following steps: 1. stirring and heating the humectant and the preservative to 75-85 ℃ at the rotating speed of 1200r/min, and stirring to completely and uniformly dissolve the humectant and the preservative to obtain a first mixture for later use.
2. Stirring and heating water and chelating agent, thickener, hyaluronic acid, nicotinamide, etc. at 1200r/min to 75-85 deg.C, and stirring to dissolve completely and uniformly to obtain a second mixture.
3. Uniformly mixing the oily emollient, the emulsifier, the film-forming agent, the titanium dioxide and the bismuth oxychloride, grinding the mixture on a grinding machine, stirring and heating the mixture to 75-85 ℃ at the rotating speed of 1200r/min to obtain a third mixture for later use.
4. Adding the first mixture into the third mixture, stirring uniformly at the rotation speed of 1200r/min, and homogenizing at the rotation speed of 3000r/min for 5 minutes to obtain a fourth mixture.
5. And adding the second mixture into the fourth mixture, homogenizing for 10 minutes at the rotating speed of 3000r/min, adding a neutralizing agent, and uniformly stirring at the rotating speed of 800r/min to obtain a fifth mixture.
6. And (4) stirring the fifth mixture obtained in the step (5) at the rotating speed of 800r/min, cooling to below 45 ℃, adding a skin conditioner and essence in a formula amount, and stirring uniformly at the rotating speed of 800r/min to obtain the light-sensitive whitening face cream.
Example 2A light-sensitive whitening skin cream
A light-sensitive whitening face cream comprises the following components in percentage by weight, and is specifically shown in Table 2.
Table 2 light-sensitive whitening face cream
Figure BDA0001476632940000121
Figure BDA0001476632940000131
The preparation method is the same as example 1.
Example 3A light-sensitive whitening skin cream
A light-sensitive whitening face cream comprises the following components in percentage by weight, and is specifically shown in Table 3.
Skin 3 light-sensitive whitening face cream
Figure BDA0001476632940000132
Figure BDA0001476632940000141
The preparation method is the same as example 1.
Example 4A light-sensitive whitening skin cream
A light-sensitive whitening face cream comprises the following components in percentage by weight, and is specifically shown in Table 4.
Skin 4 light-sensitive whitening face cream
Figure BDA0001476632940000142
Figure BDA0001476632940000151
The preparation method is the same as example 1.
Example 5A light-sensitive whitening skin cream
A light-sensitive whitening face cream comprises the following components in percentage by weight, and is specifically shown in Table 5.
Skin 5 light-sensitive whitening face cream
Figure BDA0001476632940000161
Figure BDA0001476632940000171
The preparation method is the same as example 1.
Comparative example 1 Effect of different light control Agents on the Performance of skin cream
Under the condition that the total content of the light ray regulating agent is not changed, different light ray regulating agents are respectively prepared into the facial cream, and the differences of the gloss feeling and the skin feeling of the skin after the facial cream is applied are compared.
Skin 6 light-sensitive whitening face cream
Figure BDA0001476632940000181
The preparation method is the same as example 1.
The experimental results are as follows: the product A in the example 1 and the product A and the product B in the comparative example 1 are respectively tried to be compared pairwise on the left face and the right face, and the test and comparison results show that the product A in the example 6 has better skin glossiness but is more astringent in smearing sense, the product B in the example 6 has obviously poorer skin glossiness than the other two products but is more smooth in smearing sense, the product in the example 1 has smoother smearing sense and is the best in skin color glossiness, and the finally selected light ray regulating agent is bismuth oxychloride. The boron nitride and the synthetic fluorophlogopite are powder which is usually selected in the prior art, and the comparison example shows that even if the emulsifier system is adopted, the emulsifier system and the powder system are compounded, so that the smearing sense and the light sense are difficult to be simultaneously considered.
Comparative example 2 Effect of different emulsifiers on the Performance of skin creams
The content of the anionic emulsifier of the fixed main emulsifier is unchanged, and different auxiliary emulsifiers are combined under the condition of the same content of 3 percent to respectively prepare the pigment cream. The stability and the experience of use of different co-emulsifier formulations were compared.
Table 7 light-sensitive whitening face cream
Figure BDA0001476632940000201
Figure BDA0001476632940000211
The preparation method is the same as example 1.
Stability evaluation and trial experience evaluation:
the following stability tests were performed on a and B in example 1 and comparative example 2, the cold resistance test being performed at a temperature of-10 ℃, the heat resistance test being performed at 48 ℃, the cold and hot cycles being performed at-20 ℃ and 40 ℃, the three month test, with skin feel evaluations, and the results are as follows:
TABLE 8 stability assessment and use experience assessment
Example numbering Heat resistance Cold-resistant Cold and heat cycle Experience score
1 Qualified Qualified Qualified Is relatively fresh and cool
Comparative example 2A Qualified Qualified Qualified Sticky putty
Comparative example 2B Fail to be qualified Fail to be qualified Fail to be qualified Refreshing
From the test results, the formulation of example 1 has good stability and the skin feel of the product is also relatively fresh and moist, and the emulsifier using the formulation a of comparative example 2, although providing good stability, has poor product experience and does not meet our target value. Similarly, the formula B in the comparative example 2 can provide fresh texture but is unstable, the powder is easy to coarsen, and the stability and the skin feeling experience of the product are comprehensively considered, so that the emulsifier in the example 1 can provide good stability and simultaneously brings a moist and light skin feeling experience.
Comparative example 3 Effect of different emollients on the Performance of skin lightening creams
The total content of the fixed emollient is unchanged, and different emollients are combined to be prepared into the skin cream respectively under the condition of the same content of 12 percent. The experiences of the different emollient formulations were compared.
Skin 9 light-sensitive whitening face cream
Figure BDA0001476632940000212
Figure BDA0001476632940000221
Figure BDA0001476632940000231
The preparation method is the same as example 1.
Using experience assessment:
the products A and B of examples 1 and 8 were applied directly to the face of 10 female consumer panelists aged 25 to 45, numbered ① - ⑩, respectively, and their individual experiences were evaluated by distributing three product samples to 10 panelists, each panelist was given three consecutive days at the same time point, after the same brief cleansing and skin care, different samples were used for three days, and sensory evaluation was performed after each skin cream was applied, 10 was regarded as cleaner, 9 was regarded as less cleaner, 1 was regarded as more greasy, and the evaluation results are shown in the table
TABLE 10 use of experience assessment
Consumer number
Example 1 9 8 8 10 9 8 9 9 10 9
Comparative example 3A 6 5 5 6 5 4 5 5 6 5
Comparative example 3B 4 5 4 3 4 4 3 4 4 3
As can be seen from Table 10, example 1 is better and more refreshing in the feel, and the formulations A and B of comparative example 3 are more sticky in the feel, so the invention selects PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate, dimethicone, and dimethiconol of example 1 as the emollient for the product of the invention.
Example 6 testing of human skin moisture content at different ages in a wet environment.
Selecting 15 female volunteers of 20-35 years old, wherein 5 female volunteers of 20-25 years old are numbered as 1-5 female volunteers, and the female volunteers are used as 5 female volunteers of 25-30 years old and numbered as 6-10 female volunteers of the first age group as subjects of the second age group; 5 subjects aged 30-35, numbered 11-15, were included as subjects in the third age group. Two symmetrical areas of the face are selected and respectively used as test areas of a control group and a test group, the test is carried out in a dehumidifying environment (the temperature is 20 ℃ and the humidity is 50 percent), and the test item is a moisture content test. The test group used the light-sensitive whitening cream prepared in example 1, and the control group used a commercially available ordinary moisturizing cream, both of which were subjected to the same test under the same conditions. The moisture content was measured at the proposed time intervals for a test period of 8 hours.
Skin moisture content test:
the moisture test probe is vertically pressed on the surface of the skin to be tested by adopting a capacitance method principle, the top of the probe is pressed back for a certain distance, a spring is arranged in the probe to ensure that the top of the probe keeps 0.16N of pressure and is pressed on the surface of the skin, a result is displayed on a host within one second, and a prompt sound is given.
The facial skin was cleaned and the subject was rested in a constant environment for 30 minutes before measurement of the test site blank value was performed using a skin tester (CK, Lutomer MPA580, germany). The light-sensitive whitening cream prepared in example 1 and a commercially available normal moisturizing cream were applied to symmetrical parts of the cheek in equal amounts according to the division of the facial area of the test group and the control group, respectively, and the moisture content of the two areas was measured at intervals of 30 minutes, 1 hour, 2 hours, 4 hours, and 8 hours, respectively. The skin moisture content of the three groups of subjects in the test and control areas was measured and the data for each test was recorded. The results for skin moisture content are expressed by set Moisture Measurement Values (MMV) between 0 and 150. And subtracting the blank value from each test data to obtain the change of the MMV value in the time period, and dividing the change by the blank value to obtain the increase rate of the MMV value.
The skin moisture content increase rate calculation formula is as follows:
the skin moisture content increase rate [ MMVt-MMVo ]/MMVo × 100%
MMVo-MMV of skin before applying
MMVt-time period t after application skin MMV
Test results for moisture content increase rates for test group (EG) and Control Group (CG) are shown in Table 2 and FIGS. 1A-1C:
TABLE 11 skin moisture content growth rate
Figure BDA0001476632940000241
Figure BDA0001476632940000251
From the above experimental data, the following experimental results were obtained:
1. due to the difference of skin ages, the moisture content of the skin of the group with larger age is reduced more obviously in a longer time interval, and the moisture content of the control group is more obviously than that of the test group.
2. In each age group, the test group still had better moisture content in the skin over a longer time interval, whereas the control group was significantly lower than the test group under the same conditions.
The results obtained were: the light-sensation whitening essence facial cream containing the light-sensation whitening essence facial cream can still provide high water-locking and moisture-keeping performance for the skin of people of different ages for a long time even in a humid environment, and can keep the skin moist all day long.
Example 7 example 1 and measurement of skin moisturizing effect of different commercially available facial creams:
five arm regions were selected as test regions of example 1, commercial facial make-up cream 2, commercial facial make-up cream 3 and commercial facial make-up cream 4, each of which was numbered A, B, C, D, E, from 5 subjects aged 25-30 in the second age group of example 11, numbered 1-5. The test is carried out in a dehumidifying environment (the temperature is 20 ℃ and the humidity is 50 percent), and the test item is a moisture content test. The same tests were performed under the same conditions. The moisture content was measured at the proposed time intervals for a test period of 8 hours.
Skin moisture content was measured as in example 10. The test results of the moisture content increase rate are shown in table 12 and fig. 2:
table 12 example 1 and different commercial skin cream skin moisture content growth rate changes
Figure BDA0001476632940000261
Figure BDA0001476632940000271
From the above experimental data, the following experimental results were obtained:
when the skin moisture content of A (example 1) is reduced at a speed lower than that of B, C, D, E other 4 kinds of commercially available pigment creams, the light-sensation whitening pigment cream has lasting and efficient moisturizing performance, and the moisturizing strength and the persistence of the light-sensation whitening pigment cream on the skin are far better than those of similar commercially available products.
EXAMPLE 8 testing of human skin elasticity
Selecting 18 female volunteers of 20-35 years old, wherein 6 female volunteers below 25 years old are numbered as 1-6 female volunteers, and taking the female volunteers as subjects of a first age group; 6 subjects aged 25-30, numbered 7-12, as second age group; 6 subjects aged 30-35 years, numbered 13-18, were selected as subjects of the third age group. Two areas with symmetrical faces are selected as the test areas of a control group and a test group respectively, the test group uses the light-sensitive whitening facial cream prepared in example 1, the control group uses the commercial whitening facial cream 1 in example 9, and the two areas are tested under the same conditions. The cycle of the elasticity test was 28 days, and the test was performed every day at an interval of 30 minutes after the sample application.
Skin elasticity test:
the test is carried out by applying suction and stretching principles, and a constant negative pressure (450mbar) is generated on the surface of the skin to be tested to suck the skin into a specific test probe, and the depth of the skin sucked into the test probe is measured by a non-contact optical test system. The test probe includes a light emitter and a light receiver, the ratio of light (the ratio of emitted light to received light) is proportional to the depth of skin being absorbed, thus obtaining a curve of the length of skin stretched versus time, which is then analyzed by the MPA software to determine the elastic properties of the skin.
Skin elasticity test was performed once a day, with a test period of 28 days at 30 minutes intervals after sample application, and the subjects cleaned facial skin, and after sitting still in a constant environment for 30 minutes, the measurement of the blank value of the test site was performed using a skin tester (CK, Cutometer MPA580, germany). According to the facial area partition of the test group and the control group, the same amount of the skin cream 1 prepared in example 1 and the same amount of the general skin cream 1 prepared in example 7 were applied to the symmetrical parts of the cheek, and the skin elasticity of the two areas was measured after the sample application interval of 30 minutes, respectively, and the skin elasticity was measured for 28 days under the same condition. The results of skin Elasticity are expressed by a set Elasticity Measurement Value (EMV), that is, the amount of skin stretch, and the skin Elasticity of the test group and the control group area of the three groups of subjects is measured, and the test data of the whole period is recorded, and the skin Elasticity increase rate is calculated. And subtracting the blank value from each test data to obtain the change of the EMV value in the time period, and dividing the change by the blank value to obtain the increase rate of the EMV value. The results of the skin elasticity test are expressed by the rate of increase in skin elasticity.
The skin elasticity increase rate is calculated by the formula:
percent increase in skin elasticity [% ] -EMVt-EMV 0 ]/EMV 0X 100%
EMV 0-skin EMV before application
EMVt-cutaneous EMV t period after application
The test results of the skin elasticity increase rate of the first age group are as follows:
the test results of the skin elasticity increase rate of the second age group are as follows:
Figure BDA0001476632940000292
Figure BDA0001476632940000301
the test results of the skin elasticity increase rate of the third age group are as follows:
Figure BDA0001476632940000302
Figure BDA0001476632940000311
from the above experimental data, the following experimental results were obtained:
1. both the test and control areas of the skin received an increase in skin elasticity, with the results showing that the test area was significantly higher than the control area. It is demonstrated that the skin elasticity of the area using the light-sensitive whitening cream of the present invention is significantly higher than that of the area using the commercially available whitening cream 1.
2. As can be seen from the results of the three groups of tests, the degree of increase in skin elasticity gradually decreases with age, which is consistent with the actual situation.
Example 9 method and results of measurement of other sensory indices
The skin-beautifying cream obtained in the examples 1 to 5 and the commercially available skin-beautifying cream 1, the commercially available skin-beautifying cream 2, the commercially available skin-beautifying cream 3 and the commercially available skin-beautifying cream 4 are subjected to subjective evaluation of clinical experiments, wherein the experimental conditions comprise that 50 volunteers (25 male and female) are used once a day, the age is 20 to 35 years, the skin-beautifying cream is continuously used for 28 days, the using effect of the product is subjectively evaluated after 28 days, the spreadability is good at 5 minutes, the spreadability is good at 4 minutes, the spreadability is generally 3 minutes, and the difference in the spreadability is 2 minutes; the long make-up time is 5 minutes, the long make-up time is 4 minutes, the long make-up time is generally 3 minutes, and the short make-up time is 2 minutes; the whitening effect is better at 5 points, the whitening effect is better at 4 points, the whitening effect is generally 3 points, and the poor whitening effect is 2 points; the water resistance is better 5 minutes, the water resistance is better 4 minutes, the water resistance is generally 3 minutes, and the water resistance difference is 2 minutes; the powder floating and blocking phenomenon is 5 minutes, the slight powder floating and blocking phenomenon is 4 minutes, the more serious powder floating and blocking phenomenon is 3 minutes, and the serious powder floating and blocking phenomenon is 2 minutes; the mud rubbing phenomenon is 5 minutes, the slight mud rubbing phenomenon is 4 minutes, the more serious mud rubbing phenomenon is 3 minutes, and the serious mud rubbing phenomenon is 2 minutes.
The results of the experiments are shown in the following table:
Figure BDA0001476632940000312
Figure BDA0001476632940000321
from the above experimental data, the following experimental results were obtained:
the light-sensitive brightening whitening essence facial cream has better performance than similar products sold in the market in aspects of spreadability, whitening effect, make-up holding time, water resistance, mud rubbing phenomenon, floating powder, blocking powder and the like, and can better meet the use requirements of consumers.

Claims (30)

1. The composition is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by weight:
(1)2 to 7 percent of powder
(2) 3% -8% of emulsifier
(3) 0.2% -4.5% of thickening agent
(4) 12% -25% of emollient
The powder comprises bismuth oxychloride and titanium dioxide, and the weight ratio of the bismuth oxychloride to the titanium dioxide is 1: 2-5;
the emulsifier is the combination of dimyristyl alcohol phosphate, PPG-10 cetyl ether phosphate, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, polysorbate-80, sorbitan oleate, sodium polyacrylate and tridecyl alcohol polyether-6.
2. The composition of claim 1 wherein said emollient is selected from the group consisting of PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate, dimethicone, and dimethiconol.
3. The composition of claim 2, wherein the weight ratio of PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate, dimethicone, dimethiconol is 1-2:2-4: 0.5-2.
4. The composition of claim 2, wherein the weight ratio of PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate, dimethicone, dimethiconol is 2:3: 1.
5. The composition of claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of dimyristyl phosphate, PPG-10 cetyl ether phosphate, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, polysorbate-80, sorbitan oleate, sodium polyacrylate, tridecyl alcohol polyether-6 is 2-6:0.5-2:1-3:0.5-2:0.5-2:1-3: 1-3.
6. The composition of claim 5, wherein the weight ratio of dimyristyl phosphate, PPG-10 cetyl ether phosphate, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, polysorbate-80, sorbitan oleate, sodium polyacrylate, tridecyl alcohol polyether-6 is 4:1:2:1:1:2: 2.
7. The composition of claim 1,
the weight ratio of the bismuth oxychloride to the titanium dioxide in the powder is 1: 3.
8. The composition of claim 1, wherein the titanium dioxide has an average particle size of 10 to 300 nm.
9. The composition of claim 8 wherein the titanium dioxide has an average particle size of 100-200 nm.
10. The composition as set forth in claim 8, wherein the bismuth oxychloride has an average particle size of 100-500 nm.
11. The composition as set forth in claim 8, wherein the bismuth oxychloride has an average particle size of 100-300 nm.
12. The composition of claim 1, wherein said composition further comprises from 0.1% to 1% triethoxycaprylylsilane.
13. The composition of claim 1, wherein the thickener is one or more selected from the group consisting of acrylate/steareth-20 itaconate copolymer, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, carbomer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer.
14. The composition of claim 13, wherein the thickener is selected from the group consisting of acrylate/steareth-20-itaconate copolymer and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, and combinations thereof.
15. The composition of claim 1, further comprising at least one of 8% to 25% by weight of a humectant, 1% to 3% by weight of a film forming agent, 0.2% to 4.5% by weight of a neutralizing agent, and 0.1% to 5% by weight of a skin conditioning agent.
16. The composition of claim 15, comprising all combinations of moisturizers, neutralizers, film formers, skin conditioners.
17. The composition of claim 15, wherein said humectant is selected from at least one of glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, xylitol, sodium hyaluronate, betaine, D-panthenol, and erythritol.
18. The composition of claim 17, wherein said humectant is selected from the group consisting of butylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate, betaine, glycerin, and D-panthenol.
19. The composition of claim 15, wherein the film former is at least one member selected from the group consisting of trimethylsiloxysilicate, C30-38 olefin/isopropyl maleate/MA copolymer, acrylate/stearyl acrylate/methyl dimethacrylate copolymer.
20. The composition of claim 19 wherein said film former is selected from the group consisting of trimethylsiloxysilicates.
21. The composition of claim 15, wherein the neutralizing agent is at least one member selected from the group consisting of aminomethyl propanol, potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, and arginine.
22. The composition of claim 21 wherein said neutralizing agent is selected from the group consisting of aminomethyl propanol.
23. The composition of claim 15, wherein the skin conditioning agent is selected from the group consisting of a mixture of one or more of Bonnate Spirulina extract, Arctostaphylos uva-ursi extract, Glycyrrhiza glabra extract, Ulva lactuca extract, papaya fruit extract, cherry blossom extract, rice chaff extract, and niacinamide.
24. The composition of claim 23, wherein said skin conditioning agent is selected from the group consisting of cherry blossom extract, ulva extract, borna spirulina extract, rice chaff extract, and niacinamide.
25. The composition of claim 1, further comprising 0.02-0.6% by weight of a fragrance, 0.1-0.8% by weight of a preservative, and 0.02-0.2% by weight of a chelating agent.
26. The composition of claim 25 wherein the remaining components of the composition are deionized water.
27. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 26, further comprising the following components in weight percent:
Figure FDA0002277788950000031
Figure FDA0002277788950000041
28. the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 26, comprising the following components in percentage by weight:
Figure FDA0002277788950000042
Figure FDA0002277788950000051
29. a method of preparing a composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 28, comprising the steps of:
s1, stirring, heating and uniformly mixing a humectant and a preservative to obtain a first mixture;
s2, dissolving the chelating agent, the thickening agent, hyaluronic acid and nicotinamide in deionized water, stirring, heating and uniformly mixing to obtain a second mixture;
s3, uniformly mixing the emollient, the emulsifier, the film-forming agent, the titanium dioxide and the bismuth oxychloride, grinding, stirring, heating and uniformly mixing to obtain a third mixture;
s4, adding the first mixture into the third mixture, uniformly stirring, homogenizing and uniformly mixing to obtain a fourth mixture;
s5, adding the second mixture into the fourth mixture, homogenizing and uniformly mixing, adding a neutralizing agent, and uniformly stirring to obtain a fifth mixture;
s6, cooling the fifth mixture to below 45 ℃ under stirring, adding the skin conditioner and the essence, and continuing to stir and mix uniformly.
30. The method as claimed in claim 29, wherein in steps S1, S2 and S3, the mixture is heated to 75-85 ℃ at a stirring speed of 800-;
in step S4, the homogenizing speed is 2500-;
in step S5, the homogenizing speed is 2500-;
in step S6, the stirring speed is 800-1000 r/min.
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