CN107174551A - Anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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CN107174551A
CN107174551A CN201710481917.1A CN201710481917A CN107174551A CN 107174551 A CN107174551 A CN 107174551A CN 201710481917 A CN201710481917 A CN 201710481917A CN 107174551 A CN107174551 A CN 107174551A
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parts
chinese gooseberry
gooseberry seed
polyphenol
face cream
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CN107174551B (en
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邓建军
刘清清
杨海霞
李聪
申烨华
曹炜
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Northwest University
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/84Products or compounds obtained by lyophilisation, freeze-drying

Abstract

It is composed of the following components by mass fraction the invention discloses a kind of anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol and preparation method thereof:46 parts of odium stearate, 24 parts of octadecyl alcolol, 24 parts of hexadecanol, 35 parts of white oil, 0.5 1 parts of polysorbate60,12 parts of lanolin, 0.5 1 parts of olive oil, 57 parts of glycerine, 0.3 0.5 parts of triethanolamine, 75 80 parts of distilled water, 26 parts of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol, 0.02 0.05 parts of cream jasmin france, 0.03 0.06 parts of Bronopol, Nepal's 0.2 0.3 parts of propyl ester of gold.The present invention is gentle to skin safe using Chinese gooseberry seed as raw material, non-stimulated, and moisturizing, crease-resistant and sun-proof result are significantly, with low cost, improve the comprehensive utilization ratio of Kiwi berry processed side product.

Description

Anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol and preparation method thereof
Technical field
The invention belongs to skincare product technical field, it is related to a kind of anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol and its preparation side Method.
Background technology
At present, all kinds of cosmetics of in the market are produced using synthesis material mostly, and its raw material or finished product are substantially all It is to use higher aliphatics for main production material source, i.e. non-natural cosmetics.And natural products skin care It is primarily referred to as with the addition of the natural plant extraction thing obtained by refining after certain technical finesse in raw material used in production Obtained cosmetics.Plant, animal and microorganism belong to the extract that is added in natural products skin care it is main come Source, and the utilization of plant extract is the most extensive, has been successfully applied to the fields such as food, pharmacy, beauty and skin care.In recent years, The favor of consumer is received with anti-oxidant, moisturizing, sun-proof and Bearberry Extract natural products skin care.At present, reed Aloe extract in luxuriant growth, the flavonoid extract of ginkgo leaf, Bai Sang and Hei Sang extracts etc. are widely used in cosmetics neck Domain, is formed suppressing melanin, suppresses tyrosinase activity and whitening aspect is notable compared with face cream effect of chemical synthesis.
Polyphenolic substance is the natural active matter that a class is widely present in cereal, veterinary antibiotics.Research shows that it has There are a variety of pharmacological activity, such as antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and antioxidation activity.Substantial amounts of pair can be produced in the industrial processes of fruits and vegetables Product, wherein the bioactive ingredients rich in fruit and seed, this has been increasingly becoming the polyphenolic substance of foods and cosmetics industry New sources, the OPC plant polyphenol being rich in such as grape pip is added in face cream and with significant health care Old effect.Kiwi berry is referred to as " VC king " in fruit, favored by consumers, and China is the big producer of Kiwi berry, is accounted for The 53% of world's total sales volume.In addition to being used as fresh fruit and eating, fruit wine, the deep processed product such as fruit juice and dried fruit have been processed to. Chinese gooseberry seed is main byproduct, and its seed oil has been used in food, health products and cosmetic field.But after oil expression Oil cake is dropped mostly in addition to being used as feed on a small quantity.At present, the polyphenol in Chinese gooseberry seed oil cake is successfully extracted out Come, research shows, it has significant antioxidation activity and anti-inflammatory activity.
The content of the invention
To achieve the above object, the present invention provides a kind of anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol, using Chinese gooseberry seed as original Material, gentle to skin safe, non-stimulated, moisturizing, crease-resistant and sun-proof result are significantly, with low cost, improve Kiwi berry processing secondary The comprehensive utilization ratio of product.
It is another object of the invention to provide a kind of preparation method of the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol.
The technical solution adopted in the present invention is, a kind of anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol, by mass fraction by with The following group is grouped into:4-6 parts of odium stearate, 2-4 parts of octadecyl alcolol, 2-4 parts of hexadecanol, 3-5 parts of white oil, 0.5-1 parts of Tween-60, sheep 1-2 parts of fat of hair, 0.5-1 parts of olive oil, 5-7 parts of glycerine, 0.3-0.5 parts of triethanolamine, 75-80 parts of distilled water, Chinese gooseberry seed is more 2-6 parts of phenol, 0.02-0.05 parts of cream jasmin france, 0.03-0.06 parts of Bronopol, Nepal's 0.2-0.3 parts of propyl ester of gold.
Further, a kind of anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol, composed of the following components by mass fraction:Stearic acid 4.5-6 parts of sodium, 2.51-4 parts of octadecyl alcolol, 2.5-4 parts of hexadecanol, 3.1-5 parts of white oil, 0.5-0.8 parts of Tween-60, lanolin 1.2-2 parts, 0.5-0.8 parts of olive oil, 6.5-7 parts of glycerine, 0.31-0.4 parts of triethanolamine, 75-78 parts of distilled water, Chinese gooseberry seed 2-4 parts of polyphenol, 0.04-0.05 parts of cream jasmin france, 0.05-0.06 parts of Bronopol, Nepal's 0.2-0.25 parts of propyl ester of gold.
Another technical scheme of the present invention is, a kind of preparation method of the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol, Specifically follow the steps below:
Step 1,4-6 parts of odium stearate, 18 are weighed according to each composition composition of the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol 2-4 parts of alcohol, 2-4 parts of hexadecanol, 3-5 parts of white oil, 0.5-1 parts of Tween-60,1-2 parts of lanolin, 0.5-1 parts of olive oil, glycerine 5-7 parts, 0.3-0.5 parts of triethanolamine, 75-80 parts of distilled water, 2-6 parts of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol, 0.02-0.05 parts of cream jasmin france, 0.03-0.06 parts of Bronopol, Nepal's 0.2-0.3 parts of propyl ester of gold;
Step 2, by the odium stearate weighed, octadecyl alcolol, hexadecanol, white oil, Tween-60, lanolin, olive oil, sweet Oil is mixed to get oil phase, the triethanolamine weighed, distilled water is mixed to get into aqueous phase, oil phase, aqueous phase are respectively at water bath with thermostatic control 90 DEG C are heated in pot, is stirred after fusing, 90 DEG C of insulation 20min;
Step 3, at 70 DEG C, aqueous phase is added slowly in oil phase, the stirring and emulsifying under 900r/min mixing speed 15min;The revolution of emulsification is too small to make stirring uneven, and the granularity of face cream is big, when emulsification rotating speed is excessive, it may appear that broken The phenomenon of breast, granularity increase;
Step 4, in order to prevent temperature is too high from aoxidize it, it is slowly stirred and is cooled to 45 DEG C, adds the Kiwi berry weighed Seed polyphenol and cream jasmin france, when stirring and being cooled to 40 DEG C, add the golden propyl ester of Bronopol and Nepal, continue to stir 30min, obtains the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol of emulsifiable paste shape.
Further, the preparation method of the Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol:Chinese gooseberry seed is crushed, at 40 DEG C, per 1g macaques Peach seed extracts 3h with 10ml n-hexane, with degreasing Chinese gooseberry seed;At 35 DEG C, per 1g degreasing Chinese gooseberry seed 12ml volume integrals The alcohol steep 12h of number 75%, obtains polyphenol extract solution, polyphenol extract solution is in 35 DEG C, -0.01Mpa condition through filter centrifugation Polyphenol concentrate is obtained after lower vacuum rotary steam, the vacuum freeze drying under conditions of -40 DEG C, vacuum are -0.01Mpa is obtained Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol.
The beneficial effects of the invention are as follows:The anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol of the present invention is using Chinese gooseberry seed as raw material, system Into the creams shape of oil-in-water type, the Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol in Chinese gooseberry seed contain the sun-proof skin care of anti-oxidant, anti-aging, moisturizing because Son, passes through the optimization to manufacture craft and its performance evaluation, the anti-oxidant face cream performance of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol produced by the present invention It is stable, it is safe, gentle, it is non-stimulated, with having preferable moisture holding capacity, sun-proof ability, moisten skin smooth, roughness drop Low, the effects such as desalinating melanin and wrinkle, moisturizing, crease-resistant and sun-proof result are significantly, with low cost, are market development Chinese gooseberry seed Polyphenol natural anti-oxidation face cream provides theoretical foundation.
Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol can be extracted from the oil cake after Chinese gooseberry seed and Chinese gooseberry seed oil expression, and reduction Chinese gooseberry seed is more The cost of material of the anti-oxidant face cream of phenol, improves the comprehensive utilization ratio of Kiwi berry processed side product, widens the profound of Kiwi berry Processing, strong scientific basis is provided for the deep processing of Kiwi berry industry, it is to avoid the surplus of Chinese gooseberry seed is excessive, is difficult place Reason, improves the economic benefit of Kiwi berry deep processing.
Brief description of the drawings
In order to illustrate more clearly about the embodiment of the present invention or technical scheme of the prior art, below will be to embodiment or existing There is the accompanying drawing used required in technology description to be briefly described, it should be apparent that, drawings in the following description are only this Some embodiments of invention, for those of ordinary skill in the art, on the premise of not paying creative work, can be with Other accompanying drawings are obtained according to these accompanying drawings.
Fig. 1 is influence of the emulsifying temperature to the anti-oxidant face cream organoleptic quality of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol of the present invention.
Fig. 2 is influence of the emulsification times to the anti-oxidant face cream organoleptic quality of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol of the present invention.
Fig. 3 is shadow of the Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol addition to the anti-oxidant face cream organoleptic quality of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol of the present invention Ring.
Fig. 4 is the antioxidation activity detection of the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol of the present invention.
Fig. 5 is the sun-proof performance detection of the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol of the present invention.
Fig. 6 is the performance of keeping humidity detection of the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol of the present invention.
Embodiment
Below in conjunction with the embodiment of the present invention, the technical scheme in the embodiment of the present invention is clearly and completely retouched State, it is clear that described embodiment is only a part of embodiment of the invention, rather than whole embodiments.Based on the present invention In embodiment, the every other implementation that those of ordinary skill in the art are obtained under the premise of creative work is not made Example, belongs to the scope of protection of the invention.
The preparation method of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol:Chinese gooseberry seed is crushed, at 40 DEG C, per 1g Chinese gooseberry seeds with 10ml just Hexane extracts 3h, with degreasing Chinese gooseberry seed;At 35 DEG C, soaked per 1g degreasings Chinese gooseberry seed with the ethanol of 12ml volume fractions 75% 12h is carried, polyphenol extract solution is obtained through filter centrifugation, polyphenol extract solution is obtained after vacuum rotary steam under conditions of 35 DEG C, -0.01Mpa To polyphenol concentrate, the vacuum freeze drying under conditions of -40 DEG C, vacuum are -0.01Mpa obtains Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol.
Extraction solvent is ethanol, because the polarity of ethanol is higher than acetone, recovery rate is higher than acetone, and obtained product peace The risk remained completely without organic reagent, safety is non-stimulated to skin.
The anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol, it is composed of the following components by mass fraction:4-6 parts of odium stearate, 18 2-4 parts of alcohol, 2-4 parts of hexadecanol, 3-5 parts of white oil, 0.5-1 parts of Tween-60,1-2 parts of lanolin, 0.5-1 parts of olive oil, glycerine 5-7 parts, 0.3-0.5 parts of triethanolamine, 75-80 parts of distilled water, 2-6 parts of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol, 0.02-0.05 parts of cream jasmin france, 0.03-0.06 parts of Bronopol, Nepal's 0.2-0.3 parts of propyl ester of gold;
Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol is compared with other seed polyphenol, and flavones content is higher, and relative activity is higher;Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol Content be 2-6 parts, property indices are optimal.
Odium stearate has act as emulsification, makes the face cream become to stablize pure white lotion;Hexadecanol and octadecyl alcolol For wetting agent;White oil can increase the moist feeling of skin;Tween-60 will influence stability, the fine and smooth degree of lotion outward appearance of formula And the moist moistening effect of product, have splendid skin extensibility;Lanolin has emulsification osmosis, skin smooth can be made soft It is tender, it is excellent moistness material, can makes to dry because lacking natural moisture or rough skin softens and is restored, it is By delay, rather than prevent moisture completely through epidermis to maintain the common water content of skin;Bronopol and nipalgin Propyl ester is preservative, and both are used in mixed way, with good additivity and concertedness;Glycerine is NMF;Triethanolamine is increasing Thick dose, for neutralizing into soap with aliphatic acid, amine salt is neutralized into sulfated fatty acid, triethanolamine has in face cream to be neutralized The effect of agent, it can be neutralized with CP-940, so as to reach the effect of thickening and moisturizing;
Face cream produced by the present invention is evaluated using the standards of grading of face cream, evaluation index includes color, gas Taste, granularity, stickiness, decentralization, skin trap and dermal sensation.Each index respectively accounts for 10 points, altogether 70 points, Kiwi berry The sensory evaluation scores standard of the anti-oxidant face cream of seed polyphenol, is shown in Table 1.
The sensory evaluation scores standard of the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol of table 1
Other conditions are identical in prepared by the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol, only change emulsifying temperature, respectively 60 DEG C, 70 DEG C, 80 DEG C and 90 DEG C it is emulsified, Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol anti-oxidant face cream are made;It is anti-to obtained Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol Aoxidize face cream and carry out organoleptic quality evaluations according to the standard of table 1, evaluation result is as shown in Figure 1;As shown in Figure 1, when emulsification temperature When degree is less than 70 DEG C, sense organ comprehensive grading is raised with the rise of emulsifying temperature;When emulsifying temperature is more than 70 DEG C, sense organ is integrated and commented Divide on a declining curve with the rise of emulsifying temperature.It is that moisture largely evaporates because of when emulsifying temperature is too high to cause this result, Cause the reduction of product water-oil factor, skin sense is greasy, and dispersion effect is poor, performance of keeping humidity reduction, face cream darkens;Work as emulsifying temperature When too low, because intermolecular warm-up movement is slow, mutually to fuse speed slow for each constituent in aqueous phase, when causing the aqueous phase to be mixed with oil phase Emulsification is insufficient, face cream granularity can be caused larger, product structural state is coarse, skin sense is poor;Emulsifying temperature is too low simultaneously, Also result in fractions in oil phase and be unable to reach fusing point, graininess is presented, influence emulsifying effectiveness.To sum up, 70 DEG C are optimal Emulsifying temperature, at 70 DEG C, aqueous phase, which is slowly added into oil phase, can make the more complete of emulsification so that face cream more refinement It is greasy.
Other conditions are identical in prepared by the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol, only change emulsification times, emulsify respectively 5min, 10min, 15min, 20min, are made the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol;To obtained Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol antioxygen Change face cream and carry out organoleptic quality evaluations according to the standard of table 1, evaluation result is as shown in Fig. 2 as shown in Figure 2, emulsification times are not Together, the overall sense organ of face cream is also variant.When emulsification times be less than 15min when, sense organ comprehensive grading with emulsification times increasing Plus and increase;When emulsification times are more than 15min, sense organ comprehensive grading extends on a declining curve with emulsification times.Its reason is Emulsification times are too short, and face cream can be caused early to cool down very much, and emulsification is incomplete, and granularity is big, and face cream is coarse, uneven.And it is newborn Change overlong time, then moisture loss is larger, viscosity increase influences skin sense, it is poor that aqueous phase and oil phase are combined, and granularity is big and easily goes out The phenomenon of existing profit layering.In addition, easy oxidation deterioration under stock substrate long-time heating in aqueous phase, oil phase, influences finished product Performance.Therefore, optimal emulsification times are 15min.
Other conditions are identical in prepared by the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol, only change the addition of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol Amount, is separately added into 0 part, 2 parts, 6 parts, 8 parts, and the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol is made;To obtained Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol Anti-oxidant face cream carries out organoleptic quality evaluations according to the standard of table 1, and evaluation result is as shown in Figure 3;From the figure 3, it may be seen that working as polyphenol When addition is less than 4 parts, sense organ comprehensive grading increases with the increase of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol addition;And work as Chinese gooseberry seed When polyphenol addition is more than 6 parts, sensory evaluation scores are substantially on a declining curve;The main cause for producing this phenomenon is that Chinese gooseberry seed is more Phenol addition is very few, and product is greasy, and dispersion effect is poor, viscosity increase, when polyphenol addition is excessive, the reduction of profit matched, Product is difficult into frost, and granular sensation is strong.To sum up, Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol addition be 2-6 parts when, sense organ comprehensive grading more than 35 points, Sensory effects are preferable.
Pass through the method for sensory evaluation, it is determined that the preferable manufacturing condition of the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed is:Water Oil phase is mutually slowly added to, rotating speed 900r/min, 70 DEG C of emulsifying temperature, emulsification times 15min, many Chinese gooseberry seed phenol additions is emulsified For 2-6 parts.Under this process conditions, Chinese gooseberry seed face cream properties of product are stable, nonirritant, safe.While Kiwi berry The anti-oxidant face cream of seed polyphenol has preferable moisture holding capacity, and sun-proof ability moistens skin smooth, and roughness reduction is desalinated black The effects such as pigment and wrinkle.
Embodiment 1,
The preparation method of the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol, is specifically followed the steps below:
Step 1,4.5 parts of odium stearate, 18 are weighed according to each composition composition of the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol 2.51 parts of alcohol, 2.5 parts of hexadecanol, 3.1 parts of white oil, 0.5 part of Tween-60,1.2 parts of lanolin, 0.5 part of olive oil, glycerine 6.5 Part, 0.31 part of triethanolamine, 75 parts of distilled water, 2 parts of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol, 0.05 part of cream jasmin france, 0.05 part of Bronopol, Buddhist nun Golden 0.2 part of the propyl ester of pool that;
Step 2, by the odium stearate weighed, octadecyl alcolol, hexadecanol, white oil, Tween-60, lanolin, olive oil, sweet Oil is mixed to get oil phase, the triethanolamine weighed, distilled water is mixed to get into aqueous phase, oil phase, aqueous phase are respectively at water bath with thermostatic control 90 DEG C are heated in pot, is stirred after fusing, 90 DEG C of insulation 20min;
Step 3, at 70 DEG C, aqueous phase is added slowly in oil phase, the stirring and emulsifying under 900r/min mixing speed 15min;The revolution of emulsification is too small to make stirring uneven, and the granularity of face cream is big, when emulsification rotating speed is excessive, it may appear that broken The phenomenon of breast, granularity increase;
Step 4, in order to prevent temperature is too high from aoxidize it, it is slowly stirred and is cooled to 45 DEG C, adds the Kiwi berry weighed Seed polyphenol and cream jasmin france, when stirring and being cooled to 40 DEG C, add the golden propyl ester of Bronopol and Nepal, continue to stir 30min, obtains the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol of emulsifiable paste shape.
Embodiment 2,
The preparation method of the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol, is specifically followed the steps below:
6 parts of odium stearate, 4 parts of octadecyl alcolol, ten are weighed according to each composition composition of the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol Six 4 parts of alcohol, 5 parts of white oil, 0.5 part of Tween-60,1.2 parts of lanolin, 0.5 part of olive oil, 6.5 parts of glycerine, triethanolamine 0.31 Part, 75 parts of distilled water, 4 parts of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol, 0.05 part of cream jasmin france, 0.06 part of Bronopol, Nepal's gold propyl ester 0.2 Part;Other steps are same as Example 1.
Embodiment 3,
The preparation method of the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol, is specifically followed the steps below:
4 parts of odium stearate, 4 parts of octadecyl alcolol, ten are weighed according to each composition composition of the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol Six 4 parts of alcohol, 5 parts of white oil, 1 part of Tween-60,1 part of lanolin, 0.5 part of olive oil, 5 parts of glycerine, 0.5 part of triethanolamine, distillation 80 parts of water, 6 parts of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol, 0.02 part of cream jasmin france, 0.06 part of Bronopol, Nepal's 0.3 part of propyl ester of gold;Other steps It is rapid same as Example 1.
Embodiment 4,
The preparation method of the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol, is specifically followed the steps below:
4.5 parts of odium stearate, octadecyl alcolol 2.51 are weighed according to each composition composition of the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol Part, 2.5 parts of hexadecanol, 3.1 parts of white oil, 0.8 part of Tween-60,2 parts of lanolin, 0.8 part of olive oil, 7 parts of glycerine, triethanolamine 0.4 part, 78 parts of distilled water, 4 parts of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol, 0.04 part of cream jasmin france, 0.05 part of Bronopol, Nepal's gold propyl ester 0.25 part;Other steps are same as Example 1.
Embodiment 5,
The preparation method of the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol, is specifically followed the steps below:
6 parts of odium stearate, 2 parts of octadecyl alcolol, ten are weighed according to each composition composition of the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol Six 2 parts of alcohol, 3 parts of white oil, 0.5 part of Tween-60,2 parts of lanolin, 1 part of olive oil, 7 parts of glycerine, 0.3 part of triethanolamine, distillation 75 parts of water, 6 parts of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol, 0.05 part of cream jasmin france, 0.03 part of Bronopol, Nepal's 0.2 part of propyl ester of gold;Other steps It is rapid same as Example 1.
The antioxidation activity detection of the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol:
Interior free yl would generally excessively cause oxidative damage, and cause the hair of skin pigment sedimentation, color spot, aging etc. Raw, appropriate face cream of the smearing containing antioxidant can remove free radical, the skin that timely and effective prevention oxidative damage is triggered Skin aging.Because the single electron in free radical scavenger and DPPH is matched, DPPH alcoholic solution is set to fade to absorb decrease, Thus spectrophotometer can carry out quantitative analysis to the elimination effect of free radical.Using Luo et al. method, elimination is utilized The ability of DPPH free radicals investigates the antioxidation activity of the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol.Accurately weigh 5g embodiments 1 The obtained anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol is dissolved in 10ml absolute ethyl alcohols, be diluted to respectively 250mg/ml, 125mg/ml, 62.5mg/ml, 31.25mg/ml are standby as prepare liquid.2ml prepare liquids are measured successively, add 1 × 10-4Mmol/l DPPH without Hydrous ethanol solution 2ml is mixed, dark treatment 30min, in determining absorbance under 517nm.Face cream solution pair is calculated according to formula (1) DPPH clearance rate;
Clearance rate=[1- (As-Ab)/Ac] × 100% (1)
In formula, Ab is the absorption values of face cream solution, and Ac is DPPH absorption numerical value, and As is face cream solution pair DPPH acts on later absorption values.
The result of calculation of the antioxidation activity of the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol, is shown in Fig. 4;As shown in Figure 4, macaque is worked as When the ethanol solution concentration of the anti-oxidant face cream of peach seed polyphenol reaches 0.03g/ml, DPPH free radical scavenging activities just can reach 50% More than, illustrate that less amount of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol extract, as the additive of face cream, just there can be good anti-oxidant work Property, and because the extraction process of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol is facilitated, it is possible to reduce cost, the universal anti-oxidant face cream valency in reduction market The expensive situation of lattice.Simultaneously also have to the intensive processing of Chinese gooseberry seed and the developing of Cosmetic Market important empirical theory according to According to.
It is accurate to weigh the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol made from 5g embodiments 1-5 and be dissolved in 10ml absolute ethyl alcohols To prepare liquid, 2ml prepare liquids are measured respectively, add 1 × 10-4Mmol/l DPPH ethanol solutions 2ml is mixed, dark treatment 30min, in determining absorbance under 517nm.Clearance rate of the face cream solution to DPPH is calculated according to formula (1);Result of calculation table It is bright, the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol made from embodiment 1-3 to DPPH clearance rate more than 90%, embodiment 4-5 The obtained anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol is to DPPH clearance rate more than 85%, it is seen that Mi made from embodiment 1-5 The antioxidation activity of the anti-oxidant face cream of monkey peach seed polyphenol is higher.
The sun-proof performance detection of the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol:
Ultraviolet is divided into the class of UVA, UVB, UVC tri-, and wavelength is respectively 320-400nm, 280-320nm and 100-280nm;Its Middle UVA and UVB can cause damage to the immune system of human body, cause various biochemical reactions, cause skin aging, relaxation even cancer Become.Therefore, sun-proof performance is to evaluate one of important indicator of skin care item;Absorption of UV can effectively reflect Related product Sun-proof performance, when absorption of UV is up on 80%, it is believed that it has certain sun-proof effectiveness.And absorption of UV reaches When more than 90%, then it is assumed that its sun-proof result is notable.
Using dilution method by the second of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol anti-oxidant face cream volume fraction 95% made from embodiment 1-3 Alcohol dissolves, and determines the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol made from embodiment 1-3 and, to the transmitance of ultraviolet, utilizes formula (2) Calculate absorptivity of the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol to ultraviolet;
Absorption of UV (%)=100%- transmitances (2)
The anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol is shown in Fig. 5 to the result of calculation of the absorptivity of ultraviolet, as shown in Figure 5, real The anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol made from a 1-3 is applied to absorption of UV more than 85%, with preferable sun-proof effect Really;Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol content is 2 parts in embodiment 1, and the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol is enough obvious made from embodiment 1 Improve the UV transparent rate of face cream;When Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol addition is excessive, the photostability of face cream is reduced so that Ultraviolet absorptivity declines, and ultraviolet absorptivity can be influenceed on the contrary when the content accounting of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol is too big in face cream;Macaque Peach seed polyphenol content is that the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol made from 2 parts has optimal uvioresistant effect.
The performance of keeping humidity detection of the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol:
The performance of keeping humidity of the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol made from embodiment 1-3 is commented using in vitro method Valency, 2g embodiments are weighed with the glycerine water solution and deionized water of concentration 1% as a control group, respectively instead of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol The anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol made from 1-3, is evenly coated in radius in 3cm and the culture dish that is not capped, to be placed in 37 DEG C baking oven in weighed respectively after 2h, 4h, 6h, 8h;The moisturizing of the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol is calculated using formula (3) Rate;
Moisturizing rate=M1/M2× 100% (3)
In formula, M1To place the quality before baking oven, g;M2To place the quality after baking oven, g.
The result of calculation of the moisturizing rate of the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol, is shown in Fig. 6, it will be appreciated from fig. 6 that glycerine water solution Replacing Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol with deionized water, percentage of water loss is higher as a control group, and moistening effect is poor;Macaque made from embodiment 1-3 The moisturizing rate of the anti-oxidant face cream of peach seed polyphenol is more than 45%, with significantly stronger moisture-retaining capacity;Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol contains Amount is different, and the moistening effect of the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol is also each variant, because face cream is many with Chinese gooseberry seed The alcoholic solution of phenol is added as addition manner, thus when being initially added into the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol, due to ethanol Volatilization is very fast, so moisturizing rate does not add the face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol (blank control) slightly below, and after certain time, second Alcohol volatilization is finished, the moisturizing rate of the moisturizing rate of the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol apparently higher than blank control group.As a result table Bright, the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol made from embodiment 1, containing 2 parts of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol, moistens with optimal moisturizing The effect of skin.
The safety evaluatio of the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol:
Using《Cosmetics health specification》In method, assess the anti-oxidant shield of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol made from embodiment 1-5 Skin frost is to the security of human body, selection 20 (age was 20 years old or so, male 6, women 14) physical and mental health, skin health Volunteer as subjects, the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol is uniformly smeared with finger and is pasted on subject's the back of the hand Position, observes and records the skin of subject's recipient site, after 12h when distinguishing 0h, 3h, 8h and 12h after coating Remove tested material.
The skin of 20 volunteers is observed in different time sections, observation indicate that the Test sites of volunteer are equal It is negative, i.e. the generation without erythema, papule, oedema or other allergic phenomenas.By Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol made from embodiment 1-5 Anti-oxidant face cream applies initial stage, and skin has obvious salubrious moisture feeling, and using after a period of time, skin water is tender, lubricious Effect is notable.
The physical and chemical index detection of the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol produced by the present invention:
According to regulations of the cosmetic industry standard QB/T1857-2004 to skin cream, to Chinese gooseberry seed produced by the present invention The anti-oxidant face cream of polyphenol carries out hot and cold, dewatering ability test:Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol made from 2g embodiments 1 is taken to resist respectively Oxidation face cream recovers room temperature in -18 DEG C of refrigerators after cold treatment 24h respectively, and recovery room after 24h is heat-treated in 40 DEG C of baking ovens Temperature, centrifuges 30min under 4000r/min, observes the outward appearance of product, the organoleptic detection standard and result of face cream of the present invention are shown in Table 2;
The organoleptic detection standard and result of face cream made from the embodiment 1 of table 2
Project Standard index Testing result
Color and luster Normal color and luster Compound gauge fixation pool
Fragrance Free from extraneous odour Aroma of pure
PH 4-9 6-8
Lotion outward appearance It is fine and smooth It is fine and smooth
Cold-resistant experiment Without water-oil separating phenomenon Without water-oil separating phenomenon
Heat-resistant experiment Without water-oil separating phenomenon Without water-oil separating phenomenon
Centrefuge experiment Agalasisa analyses phenomenon Agalasisa analyses phenomenon
As known from Table 2, the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol made from embodiment 1 is faint yellow fine and smooth lotion, jasmine Fragrant, physical and chemical index detection reaches standard.
The present invention is handled and mapped to data using the softwares of Origin 2015, using the softwares of SPSS 20.0 (SPSS Inc., Chicago, IL, USA) carries out one-way analysis of variance (P<0.5), all experiments are at least repeated 3 times.
The foregoing is merely illustrative of the preferred embodiments of the present invention, is not intended to limit the scope of the present invention.It is all Any modification, equivalent substitution and improvements made within the spirit and principles in the present invention etc., are all contained in protection scope of the present invention It is interior.

Claims (4)

1. a kind of anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol, it is characterised in that composed of the following components by mass fraction:Stearic acid 4-6 parts of sodium, 2-4 parts of octadecyl alcolol, 2-4 parts of hexadecanol, 3-5 parts of white oil, 0.5-1 parts of Tween-60,1-2 parts of lanolin, olive oil 0.5-1 parts, 5-7 parts of glycerine, 0.3-0.5 parts of triethanolamine, 75-80 parts of distilled water, 2-6 parts of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol, cream jasmin france 0.02-0.05 parts, 0.03-0.06 parts of Bronopol, Nepal's 0.2-0.3 parts of propyl ester of gold.
2. a kind of anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol, it is characterised in that composed of the following components by mass fraction:Stearic acid 4.5-6 parts of sodium, 2.51-4 parts of octadecyl alcolol, 2.5-4 parts of hexadecanol, 3.1-5 parts of white oil, 0.5-0.8 parts of Tween-60, lanolin 1.2-2 parts, 0.5-0.8 parts of olive oil, 6.5-7 parts of glycerine, 0.31-0.4 parts of triethanolamine, 75-78 parts of distilled water, Chinese gooseberry seed 2-4 parts of polyphenol, 0.04-0.05 parts of cream jasmin france, 0.05-0.06 parts of Bronopol, Nepal's 0.2-0.25 parts of propyl ester of gold.
3. a kind of preparation method of the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol as claimed in claim 1, it is characterised in that specific Follow the steps below:
Step 1,4-6 parts of odium stearate, octadecyl alcolol 2-4 are weighed according to each composition composition of the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol Part, 2-4 parts of hexadecanol, 3-5 parts of white oil, 0.5-1 parts of Tween-60,1-2 parts of lanolin, 0.5-1 parts of olive oil, 5-7 parts of glycerine, 0.3-0.5 parts of triethanolamine, 75-80 parts of distilled water, 2-6 parts of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol, 0.02-0.05 parts of cream jasmin france, Bu Luobo You have 0.03-0.06 parts, Nepal's 0.2-0.3 parts of propyl ester of gold;
Step 2, the odium stearate weighed, octadecyl alcolol, hexadecanol, white oil, Tween-60, lanolin, olive oil, glycerine are mixed Conjunction obtains oil phase, the triethanolamine weighed, distilled water is mixed to get into aqueous phase, oil phase, aqueous phase are respectively in thermostat water bath 90 DEG C are heated to, is stirred after fusing, 90 DEG C of insulation 20min;
Step 3, at 70 DEG C, aqueous phase is added slowly in oil phase, the stirring and emulsifying under 900r/min mixing speed 15min;The revolution of emulsification is too small to make stirring uneven, and the granularity of face cream is big, when emulsification rotating speed is excessive, it may appear that broken The phenomenon of breast, granularity increase;
Step 4, in order to prevent temperature is too high from aoxidize it, it is slowly stirred and is cooled to 45 DEG C, adds the Chinese gooseberry seed weighed many Phenol and cream jasmin france, when stirring and being cooled to 40 DEG C, add the golden propyl ester of Bronopol and Nepal, continue to stir 30min, Obtain the anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol of emulsifiable paste shape.
4. a kind of preparation method of anti-oxidant face cream of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol according to claim 3, it is characterised in that institute State the preparation method of Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol:Chinese gooseberry seed is crushed, at 40 DEG C, soaked per 1g Chinese gooseberry seeds with 10ml n-hexane 3h is carried, with degreasing Chinese gooseberry seed;At 35 DEG C, per the alcohol steep 12h of 1g degreasings Chinese gooseberry seed 12ml volume fractions 75%, Polyphenol extract solution is obtained through filter centrifugation, polyphenol extract solution obtains polyphenol after vacuum rotary steam under conditions of 35 DEG C, -0.01Mpa Concentrate, the vacuum freeze drying under conditions of -40 DEG C, vacuum are -0.01Mpa, obtains Chinese gooseberry seed polyphenol.
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