CN107034692B - 一种单向导湿面料及其生产工艺 - Google Patents

一种单向导湿面料及其生产工艺 Download PDF

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CN107034692B
CN107034692B CN201710240133.XA CN201710240133A CN107034692B CN 107034692 B CN107034692 B CN 107034692B CN 201710240133 A CN201710240133 A CN 201710240133A CN 107034692 B CN107034692 B CN 107034692B
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程显维
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Guangzhou Jinxing Textile Dyeing Co Ltd
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Abstract

本发明涉及一种利用纺织材料特性和针织物特有结构的单向导湿面料及其的生产工艺。本发明的单向导湿面料包括35‑45％棉纤维、45‑55％聚酯纤维、5‑15％亲水性聚酯纤维。通过本发明生产的单向导湿面料能将打底衫吸收的水分，带到外套表面，使贴身里层保持干爽，有效改善人体运动时的舒适度；改善运动摩擦时的静电、掉毛和沾毛现象，以及洗涤、摩擦时的起球问题；在后整理加工中不使用防水助剂，有利于环境保护，制作工艺简单，低碳环保，成本低，对颜色和色牢度没有影响，单向导湿性能永久、耐洗，手感柔软、舒适透气；具有性能优越、成本较低的特点。

Description

一种单向导湿面料及其生产工艺
技术领域
本发明涉及一种单向导湿面料，尤其是一种利用纺织材料特性和针织物特有结构的单向导湿面料及其的生产工艺。
背景技术
随着人们对休闲运动生活方式的兴起，单向导湿、舒适透气的服装越来越被消费者喜欢与认可，目前市面上多数单向导湿面料，都是利用防水助剂，用印花方式、涂层技术、或改变纱线防水和亲水性能的技术，来达到单向导湿效果，其制作工艺较长，颜色和色牢度受影响，成本较高，手感较差，以及单向导湿性能不耐水洗等诸多缺陷，而利用纺织材料特性和针织物特有结构的单向导湿面料，制作工艺简单，低碳环保，成本低，对颜色和色牢度没有影响，单向导湿性能永久、耐洗，手感柔软、舒适透气，尤其是在服装面料成本方面，具有性能优越、成本较低的竞争优势。所以，这种单向导湿面料，具有更大的市场。
发明内容
针对现有技术的不足，本发明的目的在于提供一种利用纺织材料特性和针织物特有结构的单向导湿面料及其生产工艺。
本发明的目的是通过以下技术方案实现的：
一种利用纺织材料特性和针织物特有结构的单向导湿面料，按质量百分比计包括35-45％棉纤维、45-55％聚酯纤维、5-15％亲水性聚酯纤维；所述导湿面料包括三层，里层为聚酯纤维，中间层为亲水性聚酯纤维，外层为棉纤维。
优选地，所述棉纤维为32S/1棉，所述亲水性能聚酯纤维为75D/72f涤纶，所述聚酯纤维10S/1涤纶纱。
上述单向导湿面料的生产工艺，包括以下步骤：织胚—胚检—理布缝头—染整—脱水—干布—抓毛梳毛—剪毛—成品定型—成品检验。
优选地，所述织胚使用的织针为A级织针，具体工艺条件为：针数为22G，吋口为30吋，总针数为2011G，线长按顺序分别为40cm/100G、30cm/100G、17cm/100G。
优选地，所述染整包括在吸湿排汗前煮漂、食毛、染色、清洁皂洗、中和、亲水性软油处理。
进一步优选地，所述染色包括煮布、涤纶染色、还原清洗、棉染色。
进一步优选地，所述煮布的工艺条件为：在含1g/L精炼渗透剂TR-1062、2g/L 96％烧碱、3g/L 50％双氧水的溶液中90-100℃煮漂40-50分钟，然后在含0.7g/L 99.5％冰醋酸的溶液中中和，最后在75-85℃水中煮热8-12分钟并重复2次。
进一步优选地，所述涤纶染色的工艺为：在含2％分散染料OWF、0.5g/L分散匀染剂CJB的染料中125-135℃染色30-45分钟。
进一步优选地，所述还原清洗的工艺为：在为1g/L 96％烧碱、1g/L 88％保险粉的溶液中80-90℃清洗15-25分钟，然后在浓度为1g/L的高力分散剂DAM(N)中95-100℃清洗10-20分钟，再水洗25-35分钟。
进一步优选地，所述棉染色的染色剂包含1.55％OWF活性染料、0.3g/L螯合分散剂JS-2546、20g/L精盐、2g/L 98％纯碱、1g/L新型见剂FE-3。
进一步优选地，所述皂洗在0.25g/L的碱油QEP中进行；所述中和在0.4g/L 99.5％的冰醋酸中进行；所述过亲水软油在2g/L的吸湿排汗剂DM3740中进行。
进一步优选地，所述成品定型在含0.2kg TR-1062和5kg 9185的定型剂中进行，定型的温度为145-155℃，定型机转速为28Y/分钟。
上述生产工艺生产的成品单向导湿面料的规格为320g/m2。
纺织材料选择：
为了生产满足要求的单向导湿面料，从纺织材料特性和针织物结构特点方面对对纺织材料进行选择。棉纤维具有大量亲水性羟基，亲水性好、含水量高，公定回潮率8％；聚酯纤维拒水性好、含水量极低，公定回潮率0.4％；亲水性聚酯纤维的导湿好、含水量低，因此选择332S/1棉(环锭纺)、75D/72f涤纶(十字型亲水性)和10S/1涤棉混纺纱(环锭纺)作为本发明单向导湿面料的原料组分。
利用针织物底中面结构特点，里层吸湿、透气但不含水；中间层导湿，通过自身较佳的导湿能力能将里层的水分和湿气导向外层；外层具有很好的亲水性和含水量高的性能，通过虹吸现象，将里层的水分和湿气聚集在表面，挥发到空气中。此结构的虹吸现象，使水分和湿气只能由里到外的排放，而不能逆向排放，使得原料特性和面料结构特点结合在一起。
本项目采用双卫衣结构，特有的底、中、面双卫衣结构，不但是针织休闲外套面料的最佳之选，更符合单向导湿所需的结构条件。另外，合理的底、中、面线圈密度的织造工艺参数配合，是发挥面料最佳透湿、透气和单项导湿性能的重要参数，也是面料具有弹性和饱满手感的重要因素。
织胚：
(1)织胚使用织针的是A级针，沉降片无磨损，具体工艺如下表1和表2所示：
表1
表2
排针123表示在针织大圆机上排有由高到低排列的三种不同高度的织针
1F-9F表示在织布时的一个横列
棱角：在针织大圆机上控制织针运动进行织布的机械设备
∧：表示成圈
n:表示集圈
—：表示浮线
(2)合理控制织针在织造过程中的动程，准确调节排针三角，调整纱进入的角度及纱线张力，调节纱筒大小一致，避免造成横条现象；
(3)调整织机上各路数的压针三角，通过纱线送纱量的控制，调整线大小和经纬双向密度，保证毛胚布面纹路清晰、组织结构紧密，利于产品后整理加工中使得面料达到舒适、透气、手感饱满、弹性好的优良服用性能；
(4)机器转速适当放低保持平稳，卷取装置布架的收布牵伸力调较适当收布棍轴两端压力调较放松，卷布张力调至平衡，减少中间折痕和布边压痕的出现，利于织物顺利进入卷布装置，使生产出的毛胚布外观平整、门幅克重稳定，符合针织布优等品标准。
胚检：检验布胚是否存在起横、破洞、折皱、异纤、漏针、勾底纱等问题。
理布缝头：双卫衣底衬垫纱易勾纱，因此需要将布胚理布缝头，保证在染色过程中布面朝外运行。
抓毛：为保证面料的单向导湿性能和柔软蓬松的手感，并达到抗静电、抗起毛起球、不掉毛的品质，对干后的面料进行抓毛、剪毛整理、抗静电亲水性软油定型。其中，抓毛整理需最大限度减小抓毛张力，提高抓毛绒度的均匀度，避免因抓毛太重，造成布纹不直、没有弹性、掉毛等问题。
剪毛：一般剪毛刀的剪口在托刀刃的上方，此处绒毛的竖立效果最好，两者的间距决定剪毛高度；对于绒毛不易竖立的织物，将刀口移至托刀刃的后方，利用圆刀片的转动带起绒毛进入剪口，进行剪毛，目的是减少浮毛，达到不掉毛的目的。
成品定型：在含0.2kg TR-1062和5kg 9185的定型剂中进行，定型的温度为145-155℃，定型机转速为28Y/分钟；定型前将定型机的浆槽浆桶冲洗干净，不能沾有不亲水的柔软剂及其它物质，以保证织物的单向导湿性。
本发明的有益效果：
与普通面料相比较，本发明的优点在于：
(1)该面料更有效的解决了户外运动休闲服装在运动中的闷热感，运动出汗后，能将打底衫吸收的水分，带到外套表面，使贴身里层保持干爽，有效改善人体运动时的舒适度；
(2)改善运动摩擦时的静电、掉毛和沾毛现象，以及洗涤、摩擦时的起球问题；
(3)在后整理加工中不使用防水助剂，有利于环境保护，制作工艺简单，低碳环保，成本低，对颜色和色牢度没有影响，单向导湿性能永久、耐洗，手感柔软、舒适透气；
(4)在服装面料成本方面，具有性能优越、成本较低的特点。
附图说明
图1是本发明的单向导湿面料反面滴水0s的示意图；
图2是本发明的单向导湿面料反面滴水1s的示意图；
图3是本发明的单向导湿面料反面滴水1s后面料正面的示意图。
具体实施方式
以下结合具体实施例，对本发明进行详细的说明。
实施例1
一种利用纺织材料特性和针织物特有结构的单向导湿面料，按质量百分比计包括40％32S/1棉、11％75D/72f涤纶、49％10S/1涤棉混纺纱。
上述单向导湿面料的生产工艺，包括以下步骤：
(1)织胚：使用A级织针，在如下工艺条件下将32S/1棉、75D/72f涤纶、10S/1涤棉混纺纱织成3层结构的布胚：针数为22G，吋口为30吋，总针数为2011G，线长按顺序分别为40cm/100G、30cm/100G、17cm/100G；织成的布胚里层为75D/72f涤纶，中间层为10S/1涤棉混纺纱，外层为32S/1棉。
(2)胚检：检验布胚是否存在起横、破洞、折皱、异纤、漏针、勾底纱等问题。
(3)理布缝头
(4)煮漂
(5)食毛
(6)煮布：在含1g/L精炼渗透剂TR-1062、2g/L 96％烧碱、3g/L 50％双氧水的溶液中98℃煮漂45分钟，然后在含0.7g/L 99.5％冰醋酸的溶液中中和，最后在80℃水中煮热10分钟并重复2次。
(7)涤纶染色：在含2％分散染料OWF、0.5g/L分散匀染剂CJB的染料中130℃染色40分钟。
(8)还原清洗：在含1g/L 96％烧碱、1g/L 88％保险粉的溶液中80-90℃清洗15-25分钟，然后在浓度为1g/L的高力分散剂DAM(N)中98℃清洗15分钟，再水洗。
(9)棉染色：在包含1.55％OWF活性染料、0.3g/L螯合分散剂JS-2546、20g/L精盐、2g/L 98％纯碱、1g/L新型见剂FE-3的染色剂中进行棉染色。
(10)清洁皂洗：在0.25g/L的碱油QEP中进行。
(11)中和：在0.4g/L 99.5％的冰醋酸中进行。
(12)过亲水软油：在2g/L的吸湿排汗剂DM3740中进行。
(13)脱水
(14)干布
(15)抓毛梳毛
(16)剪毛
(17)成品定型：在含0.2kg TR-1062和5kg 9185的定型剂中进行，定型的温度为150℃，定型机转速为28Y/分钟，定型前将定型机的浆槽浆桶冲洗干净。
(18)成品检验。
实施例2
一种利用纺织材料特性和针织物特有结构的单向导湿面料，按质量百分比计包括35％32S/1棉、5％75D/72f涤纶、50％10S/1涤棉混纺纱。
上述利用纺织材料特性和针织物特有结构的单向导湿面料的生产工艺同实施例1。
实施例3
一种利用纺织材料特性和针织物特有结构的单向导湿面料，按质量百分比计包括45％32S/1棉、10％75D/72f涤纶、45％10S/1涤棉混纺纱。
上述利用纺织材料特性和针织物特有结构的单向导湿面料的生产工艺同实施例1。
将实施例1制成的成品布按照GB/T 22848-2009的标准进行检验，结果列在表3中。
表3成品布的检验
注：-表示针织布经过洗水后的尺寸比洗水前的尺寸小。
可见，实施例1制成的成品布符合GB/T 22848-2009的标准。
按AATCC195对成品单向导湿面料进行测试，测试结果列在表3中：
表4成品单向导湿面料AATCC195测试
单向导湿 5级
整体水分管理能力 4级
从表4中可以看出：利用纺织材料特性和针织物特有结构的单向导湿面料单向导湿和整体水分管理能力较优，在面料底面滴水后，水分能迅速的被传导到另一面，制成衣服后，有效的解决了户外运动休闲服装在运动中的闷热感；运动出汗后，能将打底衫吸收的水分带到外套表面，使贴身里层保持干爽，有效改善人体运动时的舒适度。

Claims (2)

1.一种单向导湿面料的生产工艺，其特征在于，包括以下步骤：织胚—胚检—理布缝头—染整—脱水—干布—抓毛梳毛—剪毛—成品定型—成品检验；
所述面料按重量百分比计包括35-45%棉纤维、45-55%聚酯纤维、5-15%亲水性聚酯纤维；所述导湿面料包括三层，里层为聚酯纤维，中间层为亲水性聚酯纤维，外层为棉纤维；
所述棉纤维为32S/1棉，所述亲水性聚酯纤维为75D/72f涤纶，所述聚酯纤维为10S/1涤纶纱；
所述织胚的具体工艺条件为：针数为22G，吋口为30吋，总针数为2011G，线长按顺序分别为40cm/100G、30cm/100G、17cm/100G；
所述染整包括在吸湿排汗前煮漂、食毛、染色、清洁皂洗、中和、亲水性软油处理；所述染色包括煮布、涤纶染色、还原清洗、棉染色；
所述煮布的工艺条件为：在含1g/L精炼渗透剂TR-1062、2g/L 96％烧碱、3g/L 50％双氧水的溶液中90-100℃煮漂40-50分钟，然后在含0.7g/L99.5％冰醋酸的溶液中中和，最后在75-85℃水中煮热8-12分钟并重复2次；
所述涤纶染色的工艺为：在含2％分散染料OWF、0.5g/L分散匀染剂CJB的染料中125-135℃染色30-45分钟；
所述还原清洗的工艺为：在为1g/L 96％烧碱、1g/L 88％保险粉的溶液中80-90℃清洗15-25分钟，然后在浓度为1g/L的高力分散剂DAM(N)中95-100℃清洗10-20分钟，再水洗25-35分钟；
所述棉染色的染色剂包含1.55％OWF活性染料、0.3g/L螯合分散剂JS-2546、20g/L精盐、2g/L 98％纯碱、1g/L碱剂FE-3；所述皂洗在0.25g/L的碱油QEP中进行；所述中和在0.4g/L 99.5％的冰醋酸中进行；过亲水软油在2g/L的吸湿排汗剂DM3740中进行；
成品单向导湿面料的规格为320g/m2；
所述导湿面料应用于针织休闲外套面料。
2.根据权利要求1所述的单向导湿面料的生产工艺，其特征在于，所述成品定型在含0.2kg TR-1062和5kg 9185的定型剂中进行，定型的温度为145-155℃，定型机转速为28Y/分钟。
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