CN105662940B - Active compound and preparation method thereof and its application in cosmetics or skin care item - Google Patents
Active compound and preparation method thereof and its application in cosmetics or skin care item Download PDFInfo
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- CN105662940B CN105662940B CN201610009798.5A CN201610009798A CN105662940B CN 105662940 B CN105662940 B CN 105662940B CN 201610009798 A CN201610009798 A CN 201610009798A CN 105662940 B CN105662940 B CN 105662940B
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
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Abstract
The invention discloses a kind of active compound and preparation method and its application in cosmetics or skin care item, the preparation method of wherein active compound includes：It is respectively that 50~60 parts of sugar maple sap, 10~30 parts of white birch myron and 10~20 parts of coconut water are mixed to form mixed liquor by mass fraction, then the mixed liquor is carried out to enzyme deactivation, clarification successively, refine, concentrate and form the active compound after stable.The active compound prepared by the preparation method of the present invention can effectively inhibit tyrosinase activity, eliminate free radical, possess good antioxidation；The active compound is applied to prepare cosmetics or skin care item, obtained cosmetics or skin care item also have lasting anti-oxidant, whitening effect in addition to having natural pure and fresh plant scent.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to daily necessities technical field more particularly to a kind of active compound and preparation method and its making up
The application of product or skin care item.
Background technology
Key enzyme of the tyrosinase as B16 cell, abnormal overexpression can cause the pigmentation disease of human body
Disease, therefore, tyrosinase inhibitor can treat pigmentation common at present.At present, add in skin-lightening cosmetic on the market
The tyrosinase inhibitor added is mostly synthetics, and toxic side effect is apparent.Cosmetics are prepared using natural origin whitening agent
It is cosmetics developing direction in future.Skin aging is the natural phenomena of human body, and nowadays problem of environmental pollution is serious, the work of people
Pressure is big, and life is irregular, causes this phenomenon of skin aging even more serious.The most common endogenous related with aging course
Some Circulating Factors are free radicals, so for anti-aging, it is particularly important to remove free radical.
Therefore, the reactive composition of plants with whitening and antioxidation activity is developed in cosmetics or the hair of skin care item
It is of great significance in exhibition.
The content of the invention
In view of above-mentioned problem of the prior art, the present invention proposes a kind of with whitening, the active compound of antioxidation activity
And preparation method thereof and its application in cosmetics or skin care item.
In order to achieve the above objectives, the present invention uses following technical scheme：
The invention discloses a kind of preparation method of active compound, including：It it is respectively 50~60 parts by mass fraction
Sugar maple sap, 10~30 parts of white birch myron and 10~20 parts of coconut water are mixed to form mixed liquor, then by the mixed liquor
Enzyme deactivation, clarification are carried out successively, are refined, are concentrated and form the active compound after stable.
In further technical solution, the preparation method of active compound disclosed by the invention can also have following skill
Art feature：
The enzyme deactivation step includes carrying out biological enzyme inactivation treatment to the mixed liquor using microwave, wherein the microwave
Power is 300~900W, and the time is 5~10min.
The clarification steps include the mixed liquor after destroy the enzyme treatment is cooled to room temperature, Ran Houjin using ice bath
Row high speed refrigerated centrifuge, wherein the rate of the centrifugation is 18000~25000rpm, the time is 10~15min, and temperature is 0~5
℃。
The purification step include will be after clarification steps the mixed liquor by molecular weight be 3000~5000Da
Ultrafiltration membrane, collect permeate；Preferably, the material of the ultrafiltration membrane is hollow-fibre membrane, polyacrylonitrile film, polyvinyl chloride
Film, PS membrane, poly (ether sulfone) film, polyvinylidene fluoride film or ceramic membrane.
The concentration step includes the mixed liquor Jing Guo purification step carrying out vacuum film concentration, wherein cocnentration factor
Example be by the mixed liquor before the destroy the enzyme treatment step quality 1/15~1/10, the speed of rotation for 700~
1000rpm, vacuum degree are below 100Pa, and temperature is 10~20 DEG C.
The stabilizing step includes adding in stabilizer into the mixed liquor by concentration step and be uniformly mixed, described
The quality of stabilizer is 20~40% by the quality of the mixed liquor of concentration step.
The stabilizer is propylene glycol, 1,3-BDO, the mixture of 1,2- pentanediol, wherein propylene glycol, 1,3- fourths two
Alcohol, the mixing quality ratio of 1,2- pentanediol is 3~6：1~3：1~2.
Sugar maple sap, white birch myron and coconut water form mixed liquor after mixing is stirred at a temperature of 0~5 DEG C.
The invention also discloses a kind of active compounds, are the active components according to made of preparation method described above
Object.
The present invention there is further disclosed herein a kind of application of active compound in cosmetics or skin care item, which is characterized in that
The active compound is added to according to the ratio that mass fraction is 1~40% in cosmetics or skin care item.
Sugar maple also known as：Acer negundo, America Acer negundo, Aceraceae Acer fallen leaves megaphanerophyte, up to 40m.《National Chinese herbal medicine compilation》
Record maple root and leaf can be used as medicine, have wind-expelling pain-stopping, available for have a toothache, enteritis, dysentery, stomachache, external application control poisonous wasp sting,
Skin eczema etc..Sugar maple sap is known as by the colourless runny solution flowed out in sugar maple trunk, containing 2~3% sugared part,
The various mineral salinities such as amino acid.Since sugar maple sap has flavour, manufacture preserved fruit, candy or tobacco tune are also commonly used for
Taste.Sugar maple sap employed in the present invention is taken from the efflux in summer sugar maple trunk.
White birch myron is the juice gathered from silver birch live standing tree in spring, the birch juice delicious just gathered, slightly sweet
(the disease-free trees of health), rich in sugar, acid, trace element and aromatic substance etc..According to surveying and determination, given birth in birch juice containing 4 kinds of dimensions
Plain (VC, VB1, VB2, VH), 11 kinds of aliphatic acid, 18 kinds of amino acid and 18 kinds of trace elements.These substances live to the life of human body
Dynamic to play an important role, human metabolism can be promoted by often drinking japanese white birch juice natural drink, and can anti-angiogenic hardening and
It is antifatigue.White birch myron in the present invention is taken from the efflux in spring white birch trunk.
Coconut water is a kind of composite natral liquid for being present in coconut fruit intracavitary, rich in various nutrients, has uniqueness
Flavor and aromatic substance, main component includes acids, alcohols, esters, alkane alkenes, aldehydes, ketone and phenols etc..In food work
It can be used for producing numerous food, such as nata de coco, fruit wine, vinegar, ethyl acetate in industry.The coconut fruit annual output about 28.90 in China
Ten thousand tons, coconut water abundance, but it is less to the research report of coconut water at present, utilization rate is also very low, and most of coconuts add
Factory in addition to a small amount of coconut water is utilized and makees cold drink, is disposed, this was both caused when processing coconut mostly as waste
Environmental pollution, and cause the huge waste of resource.Therefore, coconut water is studied and is applied to daily chemicals field, had huge
Economic value.Coconut water in the present invention is taken from the intracavity liquid of ripe coconut.
Compared with prior art, the beneficial effects of the present invention are：Preparation method of the present invention is by by sugar maple sap, white birch
Preparation is processed after three kinds of myron, coconut water plant component mixing and forms active compound, which can be effectively
Inhibit tyrosinase activity, eliminate free radical, possess good antioxidation；The active compound is applied to prepare and is made up
Product or skin care item, obtained cosmetics or skin care item are in addition to having natural pure and fresh plant scent, also with lasting antioxygen
Change, whitening effect.
In further embodiment, three kinds of raw materials are respectively provided with abundant oxidation used by active compound of the invention
Enzyme, by microwave method, by the enzymatic structure in three kinds of raw materials, destruction so as to lose the activity of enzyme, avoids active ingredient appearance rapidly
It is oxidizable to cause color burn so as to influence application of the active compound in terminal cosmetics, it ensure that the steady of active compound
It is qualitative；Preferably, mixed liquor is effectively removed by using ultrafiltration membrane be easy to cause the unstable of product and is not easy in raw material
The big molecular impurities such as the starch, polysaccharide, the protein that are absorbed by the skin greatly remain amino acid, mineral salt, fragrant small molecule
Isoreactivity ingredient, so that the active compound is applied in the better of cosmetics or skin care item.
In further scheme, active compound keeps low temperature environment in preparation process, avoids in raw material
Brown stain influences appearance to sugar at high temperature, so as to ensure that the appearance of active compound and avoid to cosmetics or skin care item
Appearance impact.
Description of the drawings
Fig. 1 is fitted figure of the active compound in the embodiment of the present invention one to radicals scavenging；
Fig. 2 is fitted figure of the active compound in the embodiment of the present invention two to tyrosinase inhibition rate；
Fig. 3 is blank sample with being subtracted using the melanin after the formulation product 28 days in the embodiment of the present invention five and embodiment six
A small amount of comparison diagram；
Fig. 4 is blank sample and the L value addeds using the formulation product in the embodiment of the present invention five and embodiment six after 28 days
Comparison diagram.
Specific embodiment
Below against attached drawing and with reference to preferred embodiment, the invention will be further described.
The present invention provides a kind of preparation method of active compound, in one embodiment, including mass fraction is divided
Sugar maple sap, 10~30 parts of white birch myron and 10~20 parts of coconut water that Wei be 50~60 parts be mixed to form mixed liquor, so
The mixed liquor is carried out to enzyme deactivation, clarification successively afterwards, refined, concentrated and form the active compound after stable.
In some preferred embodiments, under conditions of above-described embodiment, it may be employed in following optimum condition extremely
It is one few：
The enzyme deactivation step includes carrying out biological enzyme inactivation treatment to the mixed liquor using microwave, wherein the microwave
Power is 300~900W, and the time is 5~10min.
The clarification steps include the mixed liquor after destroy the enzyme treatment is cooled to room temperature, Ran Houjin using ice bath
Row high speed refrigerated centrifuge, wherein the rate of the centrifugation is 18000~25000rpm, the time is 10~15min, and temperature is 0~5
℃。
The purification step include will be after clarification steps the mixed liquor by molecular weight be 3000~5000Da
Ultrafiltration membrane, collect permeate；Preferably, the material of the ultrafiltration membrane is hollow-fibre membrane, polyacrylonitrile film, polyvinyl chloride
Film, PS membrane, poly (ether sulfone) film, polyvinylidene fluoride film or ceramic membrane.
The concentration step includes the mixed liquor Jing Guo purification step carrying out vacuum film concentration, wherein cocnentration factor
Example be by the mixed liquor before the destroy the enzyme treatment step quality 1/15~1/10, the speed of rotation for 700~
1000rpm, vacuum degree are below 100Pa, and temperature is 10~20 DEG C.
The stabilizing step includes adding in stabilizer into the mixed liquor by concentration step and be uniformly mixed, described
The quality of stabilizer is 20~40% by the quality of the mixed liquor of concentration step, it is preferable that the stabilizer is third
Glycol, 1,3-BDO, the mixture of 1,2- pentanediol, wherein propylene glycol, 1,3-BDO, the mixing quality of 1,2- pentanediol
Ratio is 3~6：1~3：1~2.
Sugar maple sap, white birch myron and coconut water form mixed liquor after mixing is stirred at a temperature of 0~5 DEG C.
The present invention also provides a kind of active compounds, are according to made by the preparation method of any one above-mentioned embodiment
's.
The present invention also provides a kind of active compounds according to made from the preparation method of any one above-mentioned embodiment to exist
Application in cosmetics or skin care item, wherein active compound are added to cosmetics according to the ratio that mass fraction is 1~40%
Or in skin care item.
Active compound of the present invention and preparation method thereof is described further with specific embodiment below.
Embodiment one：
A kind of active compound containing sugar maple sap is made of by weight following components：50 parts by weight of sugar maple sap,
20 parts by weight of white birch myron, 10 parts by weight of coconut water.It is in microwave power after mixing under the conditions of three kinds of raw materials are 2 DEG C in temperature
450W, time are enzyme deactivation under the conditions of 6min；Treated, and mixed liquor cooled to rapidly using ice bath after room temperature is in rotating speed
20000rpm, time 10min, temperature are to be centrifuged at 0 DEG C, and the supernatant after centrifugation is the ultrafiltration of 3500Da by molecular weight
Film obtains permeate；Permeate rotary speed be 800rpm, vacuum degree 80Pa, temperature be 20 DEG C under the conditions of film concentrate
To the 1/10 of three kinds of raw material mixed liquor initial masses, concentrate is obtained；Its mass fraction is added in concentrate for 25% to stablize
Agent is the active compound A of the present invention after conventional mixing.Its solid content is 16%-20%, can be directly appended to cosmetic skin-care
In product.Wherein stabilizer is propylene glycol, 1,3-BDO, the mixture of 1,2- pentanediol threes, and the mass ratio of mixing is 3：
3：1.
It is following that active compound A is carried out to eliminate DPPH free radical aptitude tests：
1,1- diphenyl -2- trinitrophenyl-hydrazines (DPPH) are a kind of nitrogen center organic free radicals of stabilization, its stability
Essentially from Resonance Stabilization action and the steric restriction of 3 phenyl ring so that the unpaired electron being clipped on wherein nitrogen-atoms cannot
Its due electronics is played to act in pairs.In the presence of free radical scavenger, since single electron matches its absorption is made gradually to disappear
It loses, fading extent receives electron number in quantitative relationship with it, thus available spectrophotometer carries out quick quantitative analysis, comes
Radicals scavenging situation is detected, so as to evaluate the oxidation resistance of sample.Its ability represents that clearance rate is bigger with clearance rate,
Then show that its oxidation resistance is stronger.
Sample treatment：Active compound A containing sugar maple sap is light yellow transparent liquid, possesses novel aroma, is carried out
When DPPH removes test experiments, proportionally required concentration is diluted to pure water.
Test method：It is 2 × 10 by solvent compound concentration of absolute ethyl alcohol-4The DPPH ethanol solutions of mol/L；It will treat test sample
Product liquid (active compound A) 2ml is added in test tube, adds 2mlDPPH ethanol solutions, reaction 30min is stood after mixing；
Absorbance is measured at 517nm.
Each concentration tests to ensure the accuracy of experimental result in triplicate, is finally averaged as fitting data,
The calculation formula of wherein DPPH clearance rates is as follows：
DPPH clearance rates (%)=[1- (E-E0)/(F-F0)] × 100%
In formula：
E：2ml sample liquids add the absorbance of 2ml DPPH solution；
E0：2ml water adds the absorbance (sample solvent control) of 2ml DPPH solution；
F：2ml sample liquids add the absorbance (positive control) of 95% ethyl alcohol of 2ml；
F0：2ml water adds the absorbance (positive control solvent control) of 95% ethyl alcohol of 2ml.
DPPH clearance rates are calculated according to above formula, clearance rate is bigger, and oxidation resistance is stronger, experimental result such as 1 institute of table
Show.
Table 1
Half inhibiting rate (IC50) calculating：
C50Value is defined as the concentration of required antioxidant when clearance rate is 50%.With A pairs of the active compound of various concentration
Radicals scavenging is mapped and is fitted, and as a result such as Fig. 1, reads and calculates IC50Value.It can be seen from the figure that the sap containing sugar maple
The IC of the DPPH free radical scavenging activities of active compound50For 2.8%, there is higher antioxidation activity.
Embodiment two：
A kind of active compound containing sugar maple sap is made of by weight following components：58 parts by weight of sugar maple sap；
25 parts by weight of white birch myron；18 parts by weight of coconut water.It is in microwave power after mixing under the conditions of three kinds of raw materials are 5 DEG C in temperature
800W, time are enzyme deactivation under the conditions of 6min；Treated, and mixed liquor cooled to rapidly using ice bath after room temperature is in rotating speed
25000rpm, time 14min, temperature are to be centrifuged at 3 DEG C, and the supernatant after centrifugation is obtained by the ultrafiltration membrane of 5000Da
Cross liquid；By liquid rotary speed be 1000rpm, vacuum degree 30Pa, temperature be 15 DEG C under the conditions of film be concentrated into three kinds of originals
Expect the 1/12 of mixed liquor initial mass, obtain concentrate；Concentrate adds its mass fraction as 40% stabilizer, conventional to mix
It is the active compound B of the present invention afterwards.Its solid content is 16%-20%, can be directly appended in skin protection cosmetics.It is wherein steady
Agent is determined for propylene glycol, 1,3-BDO, the mixture of 1,2- pentanediol threes, and the mass ratio of mixing is 5：3：2.
It is following that active compound B is carried out to inhibit tyrosinase activity aptitude tests：
In recent years research has shown that pigmentation is generated by the melanin in the melanocyte in UV activation epidermis
Enzyme, caused by chromogenesis.In melanin generating process, tyrosine is changed into DOPA, DOPA quinone by tyrosinase, through non-
Oxydasis and polymerize generation macromolecular melanin.Therefore melanin generation can be limited by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase,
Improve the pigmentation of skin.
Sample treatment：Active compound containing sugar maple sap is light yellow transparent liquid, possesses novel aroma, carries out junket
When propylhomoserin inhibition of enzyme activity is tested, proportionally required concentration is diluted to pure water.
Test method：PBS solution (pH=6.8,0.1mol/L) is configured, (tyrosinase enzyme activity is l-tyrosine enzyme solutions
100U/ml).Active compound B in 1ml embodiments two, positive and negative control are respectively added in sample cell and sample controls pipe
Pipe is substituted with phosphate buffer；0.5ml tyrosinase solutions, sample controls and feminine gender are added in sample cell and sample controls pipe
Control tube is substituted with 0.5ml phosphate buffers, concussion so that the abundant mixing of sample, 37 DEG C of incubation 10min；Add in tyrosinase,
After constant temperature 10min, its absorbance is measured under 475nm, and compared with ursin.
Tyrosinase inhibition rate (%)=[1- (G-G0)/(H-H0)] × 100%
In formula：
G：Sample sets；
G0：Sample controls group；
H：Positive control；
H0：Positive solvent control.
Tyrosinase inhibition rate is calculated according to above formula, experimental result is as shown in table 2.
Table 2
Half inhibiting rate (IC50) calculating：
C50Value is defined as the concentration of required antidepressants when inhibiting rate is 50%.With the active compound of various concentration to junket
Propylhomoserin enzyme inhibition rate is mapped and is fitted, and as a result such as Fig. 2, reads and calculates IC50Value.It can be seen from the figure that sap containing sugar maple
Active compound inhibit tyrosinase activity IC50For 4.9%, there is higher inhibition tyrosinase activity.
Embodiment three：
A kind of active compound containing sugar maple sap is made of by weight following components：60 parts by weight of sugar maple sap,
30 parts by weight of white birch myron, 20 parts by weight of coconut water.It is in microwave power after mixing under the conditions of three kinds of raw materials are 0 DEG C in temperature
900W, time are enzyme deactivation under the conditions of 10min；Treated, and mixed liquor cooled to rapidly using ice bath after room temperature is in rotating speed
18000rpm/min, time 15min, temperature are to be centrifuged at 5 DEG C, and the supernatant after centrifugation is obtained by the ultrafiltration membrane of 3000Da
To permeate；By liquid rotary speed be 900rpm, vacuum degree 50Pa, temperature be 10 DEG C under the conditions of film be concentrated into three kinds
The 1/15 of raw material mixed liquor initial mass, obtains concentrate；Concentrate adds its mass fraction as 30% stabilizer, conventional mixed
It is the active compound C of the present invention after conjunction.Its solid content is 16%-20%, can be directly appended in skin protection cosmetics.Wherein
Stabilizer is propylene glycol, 1,3-BDO, the mixture of 1,2- pentanediol threes, and the mass ratio of mixing is 6：1：2.To activity
Composition C carries out eliminating the aptitude tests of DPPH free radicals and inhibiting tyrosinase activity aptitude tests drawing respectively：Active component
Object C has higher antioxidation activity and higher inhibition tyrosinase activity.
Example IV：
A kind of active compound containing sugar maple sap is made of by weight following components：55 parts by weight of sugar maple sap,
10 parts by weight of white birch myron, 15 parts by weight of coconut water.It is in microwave power after mixing under the conditions of three kinds of raw materials are 3 DEG C in temperature
300W, time are enzyme deactivation under the conditions of 5min；Treated, and mixed liquor cooled to rapidly using ice bath after room temperature is in rotating speed
22000rpm, time 12min, temperature are to be centrifuged at 2 DEG C, and the supernatant after centrifugation is obtained by the ultrafiltration membrane of 4000Da
Cross liquid；By liquid rotary speed be 700rpm, vacuum degree 60Pa, temperature be 12 DEG C under the conditions of film be concentrated into three kinds of raw materials
The 1/14 of mixed liquor initial mass, obtains concentrate；Concentrate adds its mass fraction as 20% stabilizer, after conventional mixing
As active compound D of the invention.Its solid content is 16%-20%, can be directly appended in skin protection cosmetics.Wherein stablize
Agent is propylene glycol, 1,3-BDO, the mixture of 1,2- pentanediol threes, and the mass ratio of mixing is 4：2：1.To active component
Object D carries out eliminating the aptitude tests of DPPH free radicals and inhibiting tyrosinase activity aptitude tests drawing respectively：Active compound D has
There are higher antioxidation activity and higher inhibition tyrosinase activity.
The active compound of the present invention is done further in the application of cosmetics or skin care item with specific embodiment below
Explanation.
Embodiment five：
The active compound A prepared in embodiment one is added in the present embodiment in the formula of lotion to prepare lotion.Its
The formula of middle lotion is as shown in table 3.
Table 3
By the mixing of A phases raw material, in 75 DEG C of dissolvings, and keep adding in B phases at 75 DEG C, stirring obtains whitening emulsion after cooling.
Embodiment six：The active compound B prepared in embodiment two is added in the formula of toner in the present embodiment
Prepare toner.The formula of wherein toner is as shown in table 4.
Table 4
| Sequence number | INCI titles | Add mass fraction/% |
| 1 | Sorbierite | 1-3 |
| 2 | 1,3-BDO | 1.4 |
| 3 | PEG1000 | 0.5-1 |
| 4 | Brij92 | 1-3 |
| 5 | Ethyl alcohol | 5-10 |
| 6 | Active compound B | 1-40 |
| 7 | Essence | 0.01-0.1 |
| 8 | Purified Water | Surplus |
Raw material in above-mentioned table 4 is subjected to mixed dissolution, toner is obtained after stirring.
Toners prepared by the lotion to the preparation of embodiment five and embodiment six following respectively carry out human body white-skinned face function and comment
Valency is tested.
The active compound used in the present invention can be used as whitening and anti-aging cosmetics the effect of property raw material, make
There is no particular/special requirement with form, it can be used in the cosmetics of the various different dosage forms such as aqua, lotion.This application invention human body
The formulation product in embodiment five and embodiment six, wherein active compound addition mass ratio are used in white-skinned face function experiment
Respectively 10% and 30%.
Tested crowd：It is made of the healthy volunteer of 10 25-45 Sui.
Subject method：Test subject is divided into two smearings in subject's inner forearm using cosmetics with marking pen
Region.Subject smears given the test agent in inner forearm sooner or later daily, and blank formula product is smeared (without this close to wrist
Invention active compound), it is used continuously 28 days.Melanin value, the L values in each region are gathered using instrument, and it is average to calculate it
Value.
Data acquisition：Using the MPA580 skinanalysis apparatus of German CK companies, wherein Mexameter MX18 (melanin and
Ferroheme test probe) detection dermal melanin, Colorimeter CL400 (skin color test probe) detection skin complexions
Uniformity coefficient.
Assessment result：Melanin is that we judge the common standard of skin black and white, and the colour of skin gets over brilliant white, and melanin value is lower.
From the figure 3, it may be seen that after two test samples are used continuously 28 days, comparison both sides smear sample as a result, containing it will be evident that smearing
Active compound 10% and formulation product melanin decrement containing active compound 30% are more than blank, therefore smear containing active
The skin protection cosmetics of composition 10% and 30% can possess good result to control melanin generation.
L values are to define an index of color, we are used for defining the uniform luminance of the colour of skin on skin color.The colour of skin is got over
Uniform brilliant white, L values are higher.As can be seen from Figure 4, after two samples are used continuously 28 days, the one side L values promotion of blank sample is smeared
It is less, therefore smear the skin care item containing active compound 10% and 30% or cosmetics has preferably effect to promoting skin brightness
Fruit.
It as can be seen that can be effectively by the active compound that the preparation method of the present invention is prepared from above-described embodiment
Inhibit tyrosinase activity, eliminate free radical, possess good antioxidation；The active compound is applied to prepare and is made up
Product or skin care item, obtained cosmetics or skin care item are in addition to having natural pure and fresh plant scent, also with lasting antioxygen
Change, whitening effect.
The above content is a further detailed description of the present invention in conjunction with specific preferred embodiments, it is impossible to assert
The specific implementation of the present invention is confined to these explanations.For those skilled in the art to which the present invention belongs, do not taking off
On the premise of from present inventive concept, several equivalent substitute or obvious modifications can also be made, and performance or purposes are identical, all should
When being considered as belonging to protection scope of the present invention.
Claims (13)
1. a kind of preparation method of active compound, which is characterized in that including：It is respectively 50 ~ 60 parts of sugar maple by mass fraction
Sap, 10 ~ 30 parts of white birch myron and 10 ~ 20 parts of coconut water are mixed to form mixed liquor, then by the mixed liquor successively into
Row enzyme deactivation, clarification form the active compound after refining, concentrate and stablizing.
2. preparation method according to claim 1, which is characterized in that the enzyme deactivation step is included using microwave to described mixed
It closes liquid and carries out biological enzyme inactivation treatment, wherein the power of the microwave is 300 ~ 900W, the time is 5 ~ 10min.
3. preparation method according to claim 1, which is characterized in that the clarification steps, which include to pass through using ice bath, goes out
The mixed liquor after enzymatic treatment is cooled to room temperature, then carries out high speed refrigerated centrifuge, wherein the rate of the centrifugation is 18000
~ 25000rpm, time are 10 ~ 15min, and temperature is 0 ~ 5 DEG C.
4. preparation method according to claim 1, which is characterized in that the purification step includes will be after clarification steps
The mixed liquor pass through molecular weight be 3000 ~ 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane, collect permeate.
5. preparation method according to claim 4, which is characterized in that the material of the ultrafiltration membrane is hollow-fibre membrane.
6. preparation method according to claim 4, which is characterized in that the material of the ultrafiltration membrane is polyacrylonitrile film, gathers
Vinyl chloride film, PS membrane, poly (ether sulfone) film, polyvinylidene fluoride film or ceramic membrane.
7. preparation method according to claim 1, which is characterized in that the concentration step includes that purification step will be passed through
The mixed liquor carries out vacuum film concentration, and wherein concentration ratio is by the mixed liquor before the destroy the enzyme treatment step
Quality 1/15 ~ 1/10, the speed of rotation be 700 ~ 1000rpm, vacuum degree be below 100Pa, temperature be 10 ~ 20 DEG C.
8. preparation method according to claim 1, which is characterized in that the stabilizing step is included to by concentration step
Stabilizer is added in the mixed liquor and is uniformly mixed, the quality of the stabilizer is the mixed liquor by concentration step
The 20 ~ 40% of quality.
9. preparation method according to claim 8, which is characterized in that the stabilizer is propylene glycol, 1,3-BDO, 1,
The mixture of 2- pentanediols, wherein propylene glycol, 1,3-BDO, the mixing quality ratio of 1,2- pentanediol is 3~6：1~3：1
~2.
10. according to claim 1 to 9 any one of them preparation method, which is characterized in that sugar maple sap, white birch myron and coconut palm
Sub- water forms mixed liquor after mixing is stirred at a temperature of 0 ~ 5 DEG C.
11. a kind of active compound, which is characterized in that be made of the preparation method described according to any of claims 1 to 10
Active compound.
12. application of a kind of active compound of claim 11 in cosmetics, which is characterized in that the active compound is pressed
It is added to according to the ratio that mass fraction is 1 ~ 40% in the cosmetics.
13. application of a kind of active compound of claim 11 in skin care item, which is characterized in that the active compound is pressed
It is added to according to the ratio that mass fraction is 1 ~ 40% in the skin care item.
Priority Applications (1)
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| FR3129084A1 (en) * | 2021-11-16 | 2023-05-19 | L'Arboretum | Cosmetic composition |
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| CN107049865B (en) * | 2017-04-27 | 2018-03-27 | 养生堂（上海）化妆品研发有限公司 | Skin care cosmetic compositions |
| CN107019660B (en) | 2017-04-27 | 2018-05-11 | 养生堂（上海）化妆品研发有限公司 | Moisture-keeping cosmetics composition |
| CN107375065B (en) * | 2017-07-24 | 2019-08-20 | 珀莱雅化妆品股份有限公司 | A kind of composition and preparation method with maintenance and recovery skin Tiny ecosystem effect |
| CN110731923B (en) * | 2019-07-30 | 2022-08-02 | 浙江养生堂天然药物研究所有限公司 | Enhanced moisturizing cosmetic compositions |
| CN110731927A (en) * | 2019-07-30 | 2020-01-31 | 浙江养生堂天然药物研究所有限公司 | Enhanced whitening cosmetic composition |
| CN110731928A (en) * | 2019-07-30 | 2020-01-31 | 浙江养生堂天然药物研究所有限公司 | Anti-aging cosmetic composition |
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