CN105421097B - 一种醋酯纤维/聚酯纤维混纺织物的染整加工方法 - Google Patents
一种醋酯纤维/聚酯纤维混纺织物的染整加工方法 Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种醋酯纤维/聚酯纤维混纺织物的染整加工方法。该发明的染整加工方法包括以下步骤：1)配制煮练液，对混纺织物进行前处理；2)浸轧改性树脂液，130‑140℃预定型30‑60秒；3)配制pH3.5‑6.0的分散染料染液，在100℃‑140℃的条件下对混纺织物染色30min‑120min；4)对染色后的混纺织物进行还原清洗，水洗，80℃‑90℃烘干。本发明染得的织物匀染、透染性好，尺寸稳定，强力损失小，牢度优良。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及一种混纺织物的染整加工方法，尤其涉及一种醋酯纤维/聚酯纤维混纺织物的染整加工方法。
背景技术
目前，市场上纺织面料常用的原料大多以棉、涤纶、锦纶及再生纤维素纤维为主，这些面料虽然基本能满足人们的需求，但也存在一些不足。例如，涤纶织物具有良好的耐热性、断裂强力和洗可穿性，但其吸湿性差，静电现象严重；醋纤织物具有一定的吸湿性，手感柔软，光泽柔和，穿着舒适，但其耐化学稳定性和断裂强力均较差。而同时含有醋酯纤维和聚酯纤维的织物，可以兼具美观性及舒适实用性，能更好的满足市场的需求。
醋酯纤维早在1905就已面世，但直到1954年才开始用于纺织领域，因其优良的服用性能获得消费者的喜爱。而我国醋纤工业却始于20世纪50年代，起步晚发展慢，品种仅限烟用醋酸丝束，纺织用醋酯纤维主要依赖国外进口。近几年，随着国内技术的发展和社会需求的增多，醋纤与棉、粘胶、涤纶等混纺织物开始在国内出现，多用于高档服饰品，但数量和规模有限，加工技术也不成熟。
醋酯纤维是纤维素的衍生物，分子中的大部分羟基都被乙酰化，使得醋酯纤维亲水性变差，并且极性基团较少，在水中膨化程度小，因此需要选用分散染料进行染色。然而醋酯纤维适宜的染色温度为70-90℃，温度过高会造成织物收缩，从而影响手感，但对于聚酯纤维，则大多采用高温高压染色，所需温度为100-140℃。除此之外，染色后常规的碱性还原清洗，会造成醋酯纤维的脱乙酰化反应，既会使上染的分散染料脱落，造成布面出现大量的白点，产生疵病，又会降低织物的断裂强力。正是以上这些原因，造成了醋纤/涤纶织物染整加工的困难，因而有关该类织物染整加工方法的文献也非常少。
据本发明人所知，只有文献1《醋纤/改性涤纶交织素雅锻染整工艺探讨》(化纤与纺织技术，2013，Vol42，No.3)和文献2《涤纶-醋酯纤维高弹坯布的染整加工》(申洲杯针织面料技术开发论坛论文集)谈及该类混纺织物的染整加工。文献1采用了前处理，醋纤专用染料100℃下染色，皂洗及后整理的工艺，但该工艺为避免前处理用碱，要求浆料为聚乙烯醇(PVA)，且染色后采用皂洗代替还原清洗，这样会降低织物牢度，并且PVA因不易降解、对水体破坏大，已被禁用，因而该工艺具有很大局限性。文献2中针对的是含氨纶的涤纶/醋酯纤维高弹坯布，采用了预定型、前处理、载体染色、还原清洗、后整理定型的工艺。该工艺较长，且为严格控制染色温度低于115℃，采用了载体染色法，染液中添加载体，既会污染环境，染后去除又困难，还会使染液分散稳定性下降(为此还加了乳化剂)，且最终染得的织物湿摩牢度不好，仅达到3级。故开发醋酯纤维/聚酯纤维混纺织物的有效染整加工方法，具有很强的实用性，社会和经济意义巨大。
发明内容
本发明针对现有技术的不足，提供一种醋酯纤维/聚酯纤维混纺织物的染整加工方法。该方法在染色前采用改性树脂浸轧织物，并进行预定型，可改善醋酯纤维因高温收缩而对手感的影响，解决了醋酯纤维与聚酯纤维染色温度差异大的问题，并且织物表面的改性树脂有利于分散染料的吸附，易染得深浓色。此方法可使该类织物获得匀染、透染性好，尺寸稳定，强力损失小，牢度优良的染色效果。
本发明一种醋酯纤维/聚酯纤维混纺织物的染整加工方法，加工步骤为：
1)配制煮练液，对混纺织物进行前处理；
2)对煮练后的混纺织物浸轧改性树脂液，130-140℃预定型30-60秒；
3)配制含有分散染料的染色液，调节pH为3.5-6.0，在100℃-140℃的条件下，对用改性树脂预定型后的混纺织物染色30－120分钟；
4)对染色后的混纺织物进行还原清洗，水洗，80℃-90℃烘干。
用本发明方法染得的织物匀染、透染性好，尺寸稳定，强力损失小，牢度优良。
具体实施方式：
在本发明醋酯纤维/聚酯纤维混纺织物的染整加工方法的一个优选实施方式中，所述煮练液含有NaOH：0.5-5.0重量％，去油剂：0.2-3.0重量％，保险粉(即连二亚硫酸钠)：0-2.0重量％，余量为水。
在本发明醋酯纤维/聚酯纤维混纺织物的染整加工方法的一个优选实施方式中，所述前处理工艺条件为：温度60℃-90℃，时间15-45分钟。
在本发明醋酯纤维/聚酯纤维混纺织物的染整加工方法的一个优选实施方式中，改性树脂液是含有20－40重量％改性树脂的水溶液。所述改性树脂宜为无甲醛免烫树脂，优选为低温无甲醛免烫树脂，例如为醇类醚化改性二羟基乙烯脲树脂。
在本发明醋酯纤维/聚酯纤维混纺织物的染整加工方法的一个优选实施方式中，用于醚化改性二羟基乙烯脲树脂的醇类包括甲醇、乙醇、乙二醇、二缩乙二醇、二甘醇、丙醇中的一种或几种。
在一个特别优选的实施方式中，上述的二羟基乙烯脲树脂例如包括二羟甲基二羟基乙烯脲树脂、二羟乙基二羟基乙烯脲树脂或它们的混合物。
在一个特别优选的实施方式中，上述的低温无甲醛免烫树脂更优选为预催化低温无甲醛免烫树脂。它包括无甲醛免烫树脂和催化有效量的催化剂。催化剂例如可以为铵盐、金属盐或其混合物。铵盐例如为氯化铵、硝酸铵；金属盐例如为氯化镁、硝酸锌。预催化低温无甲醛免烫树脂的一个实例是购自上海雅运纺织助剂有限公司的雅可风DP-FFC，它是包含30重量％的低温无甲醛免烫树脂和2-3重量％铵盐、金属盐或其混合物的水溶液。
在本发明醋酯纤维/聚酯纤维混纺织物的染整加工方法的一个优选实施方式中，所述染色液含有分散染料：0.5％-9.0％(o.w.f)，匀染剂：1g/L-5g/L，PH3.5-6的醋酸-醋酸钠缓冲液：0-40g/L。
在本发明醋酯纤维/聚酯纤维混纺织物的染整加工方法的一个更优选实施方式中，所述分散染料为任何常规分散染料。分散染料大致可分为分散蓝、分散黄和分散红，可以几种不同分散染料按一定的比例进行搭配，得到分散黑、分散绿、分散紫等分散染料。特别优选的分散染料为可购自上海雅运纺织助剂有限公司的雅特隆黑SW-VIP、雅特隆蓝SW-B、雅特隆翠蓝SW-GL、雅特隆黄SW-GG、雅特隆金黄SW-RW中的一种或几种。
本发明一种醋酯纤维/聚酯纤维混纺织物的染整加工方法一个优选实施方式中，所述还原清洗液优选为酸性还原清洗液。酸性还原清洗剂含有30-40重量％的亚氯酸钠，2-8重量％的甲酸，1-6重量％的柠檬酸，5-15重量％的十二烷基苯磺酸钠，10-30重量％的月桂醇聚氧乙烯醚，余量为水。酸性还原清洗剂的一个实例可包含酸性还原清洗剂雅可赛SRC：0-5g/L，酸性还原清洗剂雅可赛RC：0-5g/L，PH4.0-4.5的醋酸-醋酸钠缓冲液：0-40g/L。
本发明一种醋酯纤维/聚酯纤维混纺织物的染整加工方法一个优选实施方式中，所述织物中的醋酯纤维/聚酯纤维为任意比例混纺，其重量比优选1－99：1-99，更优选为10－90：10-90。
用本发明方法染色的织物匀染、透染性好，尺寸稳定，强力损失小，牢度优良。
实施例
下面结合具体实施例，进一步阐述本发明。应理解，这些实施例仅用于说明本发明而不用于限制本发明的范围。实例中未注明技术或条件者，按照本领域内的文献所描述的技术或条件，或参考产品说明书进行。此外应理解，在阅读了本发明讲授的内容之后，本领域技术人员可以对本发明作各种改动或修改，这些等价形式同样落于本申请所附权利要求书所限定的范围。
各实施例中染化料来源如下：NaOH、保险粉、去油剂、匀染剂均为市售；雅特隆染料来自上海雅运纺织化工股份有限公司；雅洁瑞TSC-E、雅可赛SRC、雅可赛RC、预催化低温无甲醛免烫树脂雅可风DP-FFC来自上海雅运纺织助剂有限公司。
如下各实施例中染得的织物性能指标通过如下方法测定：
1)耐摩擦色牢度：GB/T3920-2008《纺织品色牢度试验耐摩擦色牢度》测定。
2)耐皂洗色牢度：GB/T3921-2008《纺织品色牢度试验耐皂洗色牢度》测定。
3)拉伸断裂强力：GB/T3923.1-1997《纺织品拉伸性能第一部分织物断裂强力和拉伸伸长率测定(条样法)》测定。
4)表观深度K/S值：Datacolor测配色系统，D65光源，大孔径，测定。
实施例1
布样：醋纤/涤纶混纺织物(日本帝人公司)组分：60/40克重：110g/m2
将上述布样经过以下步骤加工：
1)配制含NaOH：2.0重量％；去油剂Homectol LYS(购自科莱恩化工)：1.5重量％，保险粉：1.0重量％的煮练液100ml，升温至80℃处理5g上述布样20分钟，水洗；
2)配制浓度为40g/L的雅可风DP-FFC水溶液100ml，二浸二轧煮练后的布样，再在130℃下焙烘60s。
3)配制含雅特隆黑SW-VIP：5.6重量％、雅特隆翠蓝SW-GL：2.0重量％、雅特隆黄SW-GG：0.8重量％和匀染剂PEL(购自巴斯夫公司)：3g/L，PH 5.0醋酸-醋酸钠缓冲液：40g/L的水染液100ml，放入雅可风DP-FFC处理过的布样进行染色，2℃/分钟升至130℃后保温60分钟，再降温至80℃；
4)配制含还原清洗剂雅可赛SRC：3g/L，PH 4.5醋酸-醋酸钠缓冲液：40g/L的还原清洗液100ml，升温至80℃，处理染色后的布样20min，水洗，80℃-90℃烘干；
加工后织物性能指标见附表1
实施例2
布样：醋纤/涤纶交织织物(日本帝人公司)组分：25/75克重：200g/m2
将上述布样经过以下步骤加工：
1)配制含NaOH：4.0重量％；Homectol LYS(购自科莱恩化工)：2.5重量％，保险粉：2.0重量％的煮练液100ml，升温至90℃处理5g上述布样45分钟，水洗；
2)配制浓度为40g/L的雅可风DP-FFC水溶液100ml，二浸二轧煮练后的布样，再在140℃下焙烘45s。
3)配制含雅特隆蓝SW-B：3.5％，匀染剂PEL(购自巴斯夫)：2g/L，PH 4.0醋酸-醋酸钠缓冲液：40g/L的染液100ml，放入雅可风DP-FFC处理过的布样进行染色，2℃/分钟升至130℃后保温90分钟，再降温至80℃；
4)配制含酸性还原清洗剂雅可赛RC：5g/L，PH 4.0醋酸-醋酸钠缓冲液：40g/L的还原清洗液100ml，升温至80℃，处理染色后的布样20min，水洗，80℃-90℃烘干；
加工后织物性能指标见附表1
实施例3
布样：醋纤/涤纶交织织物(日本帝人公司)组分：80/20克重：170g/m2
将上述布样经过以下步骤加工：
1)配制含NaOH：1.5重量％；去油剂雅洁瑞TSC-E：1.5重量％，的煮练液100ml，升温至65℃处理5g上述布样15分钟，水洗；
2)配制浓度为40g/L的雅可风DP-FFC水溶液100ml，一浸一轧煮练后的布样，在140℃下焙烘45s。
3)配制含雅特隆金黄SW-RW：1.8％，匀染剂PEL(购自巴斯夫)：1g/L，PH5.5醋酸-醋酸钠缓冲液：40g/L的染液100ml，放入雅可风DP-FFC处理过的布样进行染色，2℃/分钟升至110℃保温45分钟，再降温至80℃；
4)配制含还原清洗剂雅可赛SRC：1.5g/L，PH 4.5醋酸-醋酸钠缓冲液：40g/L的还原清洗液100ml，升温至80℃，处理染色后的布样20min，水洗，80℃-90℃烘干；
加工后织物性能指标见附表1
性能测试结果附表
表1 实例性能测试结果
由表1中各实施例的性能测试结果可知，本发明提供的醋酯纤维/聚酯纤维混纺织物的染整加工方法，工艺简单，可获得匀染性好、强力损失小、牢度优良的浅中深不同色光的染色织物。
Claims (9)
1.一种醋酯纤维/聚酯纤维混纺织物的染整加工方法，其特征在于：包括如下步骤：
1)配制煮练液，对混纺织物进行前处理；
2)对煮练后的混纺织物浸轧改性树脂液，130-140℃预定型30-60秒，所述改性树脂液是含有20－40重量％改性树脂的水溶液，所述改性树脂为醇类醚化改性二羟基乙烯脲树脂；
3)配制含有分散染料的染色液，调节pH为3.5-6.0，在100℃-140℃的条件下，对用改性树脂预定型后的混纺织物染色30－120分钟；
4)对染色后的混纺织物进行还原清洗，水洗，80℃-90℃烘干。
2.如权利要求1所述的染整加工方法，其特征在于：所述煮练液含有NaOH：0.5-5.0重量％；去油剂：0.2-3.0重量％；保险粉：0-2.0重量％，余量为水。
3.如权利要求1所述的的染整加工方法，其特征在于：前处理工艺条件为：温度60℃-90℃，时间15-45分钟。
4.如权利要求3所述的染整加工方法，其特征在于，所述醇类包括甲醇、乙醇、乙二醇、二缩乙二醇、二甘醇、丙醇中的一种或几种。
5.如权利要求1所述的染整加工方法，其特征在于：所述染色液含有分散染料：0.5％-9.0％(o.w.f)，匀染剂：1g/L-5g/L，PH3.5-6的醋酸-醋酸钠缓冲液：0-40g/L。
6.如权利要求1所述的染整加工方法，其特征在于：所述分散染料包括雅特隆黑SW-VIP、雅特隆蓝SW-B、雅特隆翠蓝SW-GL、雅特隆黄SW-GG、雅特隆金黄SW-RW中的一种或几种。
7.如权利要求1所述的染整加工方法，其特征在于：还原清洗液包括酸性还原清洗剂：0-5g/L，PH4.0-4.5的醋酸-醋酸钠缓冲液：0-40g/L。
8.如权利要求7所述的染整加工方法，其特征在于：所述酸性还原清洗剂包括雅可赛SRC、雅可赛RC或其混合物。
9.如权利要求1所述的染整加工方法，其特征在于：混纺织物中的醋酯纤维/聚酯纤维的重量比为1－99：1-99。
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| CN1172053C (zh) * | 2001-02-09 | 2004-10-20 | 广东溢达纺织有限公司 | 免烫耐洗纯棉针织物的生产工艺 |
| CN100334295C (zh) * | 2005-12-29 | 2007-08-29 | 广东溢达纺织有限公司 | 高级三丝光纯棉面料 |
| CN103572452A (zh) * | 2012-08-08 | 2014-02-12 | 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司 | 一种防皱织物及其生产方法和用途 |
| CN103387647B (zh) * | 2013-07-31 | 2015-01-21 | 绍兴中纺院江南分院有限公司 | 一种无甲醛耐久免烫树脂、制备方法及其应用 |
| CN103696234B (zh) * | 2013-12-26 | 2015-12-30 | 安徽中天印染股份有限公司 | 一种抗螨防皱易去污洁净面料的制备方法 |
| CN103938471B (zh) * | 2014-04-18 | 2015-11-04 | 长兴宏峰纺织印染有限公司 | 一种棉织物的印染工艺 |
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