A kind of Chinese medicine extraction compositions and application thereof of Pear Power skin-protecting function
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of composite Chinese medicine composition, said composition has the function of skin-whitening and nursing, can be applied to the cosmetics of skin-whitening and skin protection.
Background technology
Skin-whitening is the theme of cosmetics with nursing, and the cosmetics with skin-whitening and skin-care function are one of best-selling cosmetics.Modern scientific research proves that skin aging is a very complicated process, receives influence of various factors, and wherein melanic generation and free radical cause that the degeneration of elastic fibers of skin is two big principal elements.Melanic forming process is: the tyrosine in the human body skin melanocyte (tyrosine) is oxidized generation DOPA (dopa) and DOPA quinone (dopaquinone) under the catalytic action of tryrosinase; Generate dopachrome (dopachrome), 5 through resetting laggard oxidation step; The 6-dihydroxy indole (5,6-dihydroxyindole), istain (indole-5,6-quinone); Final synthesis of melanin (melanin) is shown in its reaction accompanying drawing 1.
The principal element that influences melanic formation has: the content and the tyrosine contents of the quantity of melanocyte, the activity of tryrosinase, oxygen-derived free radicals.Wherein, tyrosine is the aminoacid of needed by human, and its content is controlled by human body self.So, control melanic formation, can only be through quantity, the activity of tryrosinase and the content of oxygen-derived free radicals of control melanocyte.So from the angle of safety, the approach of skin-whitening and skin nursing mainly contains the following aspects: the one, through suppressing the dermal melanin cell proliferation, reduce the quantity that melanocyte generates; The 2nd, through suppressing the catalytic activity of key enzyme-tryrosinase that dermal melanin generates, reach the purpose of whitening thereby reduce melanic generating rate; The 3rd, through sun-proof, prevent of the injury (tanned and sunburn) of sunlight middle-ultraviolet lamp to skin, slow down skin aging; The 4th, remove the oxygen-derived free radicals in the skin through using antioxidant, slow down the melanin generation and slow down skin aging.
At present; All there are big defective in the management of China's skin-lightening cosmetic and technology, and the phenomenon of adding in violation of rules and regulations is very serious, have in addition with contrabands such as aminomercuric chlorides as whitening agent or add peroxide such as hydrogen peroxide and bleach; Many beauty treatment accidents have been caused for many years; Even disfeature, caused very big injury to consumer, caused the great attention of country and consumer.In recent years, the whitening agent that in cosmetics, uses mainly contains chemical compounds such as hydroquinone (hydroquinone), L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C), kojic acid, superoxide dismutase (SOD) and arbutin.But these whitening agents exist many defectives, and are very big like the zest of hydroquinone, and vitamin C and SOD are very unstable, and kojic acid also has certain zest and property easy to change, and the arbutin effect is single with poor effect etc.So exploitation has good safety, stability, it is obvious to suppress effect, and the natural whiting agent that cost performance is good has become one of main direction of studying of current medicine and cosmetic industry, has extraordinary development prospect.Natural materials is applied to cosmetics can reach skin treating and skin protection double effects, and has diverse in function, characteristic such as widely applicable, safe, thereby comes into one's own day by day.Patent of invention CN102225039A has announced a kind of Chinese medicine composition of whitening that contains Radix Glycyrrhizae, Cortex Moutan, Fructus Atriplicis Sibiricae, Rhizoma Polygonati, Herba Leonuri, and this Chinese medicine composition adopts decocting method to extract preparation.Patent of invention CN101612105 announced a kind of by the Pseudobulbus Bletillae (Rhizoma Bletillae), hold back in vain, whitening and skin-protecting Chinese medicine composition that the extract of Cortex Mori, Poria, Fructus Atriplicis Sibiricae, the Rhizoma Atractylodis Macrocephalae, Fructus Amomi Rotundus, the Radix Paeoniae Alba, Herba Pyrolae and Radix Angelicae Sinensis is formed and preparation method thereof, said composition adopts the method for soaking and extracting and resin isolation enrichment to prepare.Patent of invention CN101732223A announced a kind of by Aloe, Faeces Passeris, lead a cow in vain, pure Chinese medicine active white skin care solution that Poria, Semen Ginkgo core, the Pseudobulbus Bletillae (Rhizoma Bletillae), the Radix Angelicae Dahuricae, the Rhizoma Atractylodis Macrocephalae, Nidus collocaliae, Semen Coicis, Radix Gentianae, Radix Angelicae Sinensis, Semen Ginkgo are formed, this Chinese medicine composition adopts decocting method to extract preparation.Patent of invention CN101804185A has announced a kind of speckle dispelling Chinese medicine composition that contains Radix Bupleuri, Radix Angelicae Sinensis, the Radix Paeoniae Alba, Fructus Corni, the Rhizoma Atractylodis Macrocephalae, Poria, Rhizoma Chuanxiong, Semen Persicae, Bombyx Batryticatus, Roast Rhizoma Zingiberis Recens, Herba Menthae and Radix Glycyrrhizae Preparata, and this Chinese medicine composition has adopted the carbon dioxide supercritical fluid extraction technology to extract.
Summary of the invention
The objective of the invention is defective for the whitening agent that overcomes chemosynthesis; A kind of Chinese medicine extraction compositions is provided; The effect that this Chinese medicine extraction compositions can suppress melanic biosynthesis, absorb ultraviolet and remove free radical; Have the function of skin-whitening and skin nursing, and have advantages such as stable in properties, zest be little.
Another object of the present invention is that this Chinese medicine extraction compositions is used for skin-whitening and skin care cosmetics, makes stable in properties, respond well whitening skin care product.
For reaching the object of the invention, the present invention has adopted following technical scheme:
A kind of Chinese medicine extraction compositions of Pear Power skin-protecting function is characterized in that comprising following components in weight percentage:
Above-mentioned Chinese medicine extract can adopt the high pressure homogenize extraction method to obtain, and after for example can above-mentioned Chinese medicine being pulverized, sieves; After the extraction solvent soaks 1~2h, extract with the high pressure homogenize extractor, extracting solution is after centrifugalize; Use macroporous resin adsorption, the ethanol with 10~95% is eluting repeatedly, collects eluent; Be evaporated to the extractum shape, promptly get.For fear of dissolvent residual, the extraction solvent that uses among the present invention can adopt water, ethanol, ethanol water.In order to obtain the optimum extraction effect, the present invention has carried out the screening of extracting solvent, extracting extraction process conditions such as pressure, liquid material mass ratio, extraction time, has obtained the optimum extraction process condition, sees shown in the table 1.
Table 1
The application of above-mentioned Chinese medicine extraction compositions in the preparation whitening skin care product is characterized in that containing in the whitening skin care product above-mentioned Chinese medicine extraction compositions, and its consumption is 0.05~20%, and preferable amount is 0.5~10%.Except containing above-mentioned Chinese medicine extraction compositions, can suitably add the common composition that is fit to the cosmetics use as required, like matrix components such as wetting agent, emollient, water, emulsifying agents.
The not special restriction of the dosage form of whitening skin care product can be solution, emulsion, paste, powdery, foundation emulsion, spray etc.
Beneficial effect of the present invention: Chinese medicine extraction compositions of the present invention has the melanocyte of inhibition, restraint of tyrosinase, free radical resisting and uvioresistant effect, can effectively suppress dermal melanin and generate, and has excellent whitening effect.Said composition does not contain the material of chemosynthesis, has no side effect, and skin irritation is little, and stable in properties is safe and reliable.In addition, except whitening effect, because said composition contains the plurality of Chinese active component; Function with activating blood circulation to dissipate blood stasis can be skin and directly provides and nourish the nutrition composition in its normal physiological processes, promotes skin metabolism; Improve the health of skin, have good skin effect.
The specific embodiment
Below come the present invention is further described through specific embodiment, but these embodiment are not limitations of the present invention just in order to explain.
Embodiment 1 whitening and skin-protecting effect assessment experimental technique and result
1, the preparation of sample
Above-mentioned Chinese medicine extraction compositions is dissolved in the dimethyl sulfoxine, is made into concentration and is 0.1% sample solution, carry out following test.Simultaneously with arbutin as control sample.
2, restraint of tyrosinase vigor effect assessment test
Accurately drawing sample solution, pH value by table 2 is that 6.8 PBS (PBS) and mass fraction are 0.1% DOPA solution; Fully mix; In 30 ℃ hatch 5min after, adding activity is the tryrosinase solution of 110U/mL, under 30 ℃, hatches 10min again; Be transferred to rapidly in the cuvette, survey absorbance at the 475nm place.Use kojic acid, hydroquinone, ascorbic acid, arbutin as tester.
Table 2
By the relative inhibition (I be called for short suppression ratio, down together) of formula (1) calculation sample to tryrosinase.
In the formula: A
1, A
2, A
3, A
4Be respectively 1 group~4 groups solution absorbency.
3, suppress melanin synthetic test in the melanocyte
The density of B 16 MCs with 1 * 105/mL is inoculated in 96 orifice plates, every hole 90 μ L, hatch 24 hours in the CO2 incubator after, every hole adds sample solution.Set up the blank group of culture medium and cell simultaneously.
After placing incubator to hatch 72 hours the culture plate, abandoning supernatant, PBS washing twice, every then hole adds 0.5mL trypsin digestion cell 3min, and every hole adds 2mL and keeps liquid and stop digestion.Behind the mixing, every kind of concentration is taken out 0.5mL and is done the cell counting.All the other cell suspension are with 2500r/min centrifugalize 5min, and abandoning supernatant adds NaOH solution in deposition, and heating makes the melanin dissolving, selects the 490nm wavelength under enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay instrument, to measure absorbance.By formula (2) calculation sample to the synthetic suppression ratio of melanin (I ').
In the formula: A
5Be medicine hole absorbance; P
1Be medicine porocyte density; A
6Be the control wells absorbance; P
2Be the control wells cell density.
4, ultra-oxygen anion free radical is removed the effect assessment test
Press table 3 and add medicinal liquid.Extracting sample solution 2mL adds 2.25mL Tris-HCl buffer solution (pH 8.36), and after 0.25mL concentration was 10mmoL/L pyrogallol solution, 25 ℃ of following water-baths dripped 1 of 10mol/L hydrochloric acid, cessation reaction during 4min.Under 420nm, survey absorbance with ultraviolet spectrophotometer.Calculate clearance rate (D) according to formula (3).
A in the formula
7For issuing to be conigenous at Tris-HCl solution, pyrogallol sends out oxidation reaction generation O
2 -Absorbance; A
8Be Tris-HCl solution absorbency value; A
9For removing O
2 -The absorbance of reaction; A
10Absorbance for medicine.
Table 3
5, uvioresistant effect assessment test
Make an experiment according to the light industry standard QB/T 2334-1997 of the People's Republic of China (PRC) (cosmetics middle-ultraviolet lamp absorbent qualitative determination-ultraviolet spectrophotometry).With sample solution 10mL with 95% ethanol dilution to 100mL, then in 280~400nm scope, whenever scan at a distance from 10nm, confirm the absorbance each wavelength under, and the calculating mean light absorbency.
6, experimental result
The experiment of whitening and skin-protecting effect assessment is seen shown in the table 4.
Table 4
Experimental result shows that Chinese medicine extraction compositions of the present invention restraint of tyrosinase effectively is active synthetic with inhibition melanin, has the free radical of removing and anti-ultraviolet function simultaneously, and these functions all are superior to whitening agent---arbutin commonly used at present.
Embodiment 2 Chinese medicine extraction compositions
The Chinese medicine extraction compositions (I) of Pear Power skin-protecting function is formed as follows by weight percentage:
The Chinese medicine extraction compositions (II) of Pear Power skin-protecting function is formed as follows by weight percentage:
The Chinese medicine extraction compositions (III) of Pear Power skin-protecting function is formed as follows by weight percentage:
The preparation of embodiment 3 whitening and skin-protectings breast
Table 5 provides the whitening and skin-protecting breast prescription that contains the Chinese medicine extraction compositions, and the consumption of each material is represented with mass fraction.
Table 5
The method for preparing of whitening and skin-protecting breast: the dimethyl siloxane in the formula table, isopropyl palmitate, sad caprin, monoglyceride, stearic acid, methyl hydroxybenzoate, propylparaben are mixed, be heated to 80 ℃, fusing stirs, as oil phase; With 1 in the formula table, 2-propylene glycol, Chinese medicine extraction compositions, triethanolamine, deionized water mix, and are heated to 85 ℃, and stirring and dissolving is even, as water.Oil phase and water are added in the emulsifying pot, stir, the emulsifying homogenizing stirred when being cooled to 50 ℃ after 6 minutes, added essence, stirred, and was cooled to 38 ℃, was the whitening and skin-protecting breast.
The preparation that embodiment 4 whitening and skin-protecting elite are revealed
Table 6 provides the whitening and skin-protecting elite that contains the Chinese medicine extraction compositions and reveals prescription, and the consumption of each material is represented with mass fraction.
Table 6
The method for preparing that the whitening and skin-protecting elite is revealed: deionized water is heated to 85 ℃, adds hydroxyethyl-cellulose, and stirring and dissolving is even, adds 1, the 2-propylene glycol.When stirring is cooled to 50 ℃, add other compositions, continue stirring and be cooled to 38 ℃, be the whitening and skin-protecting elite and reveal.