CN102406576A - Prinsepia utilis Royle oil-containing functional skin care product and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Prinsepia utilis Royle oil-containing functional skin care product and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN102406576A CN102406576A CN2011103726399A CN201110372639A CN102406576A CN 102406576 A CN102406576 A CN 102406576A CN 2011103726399 A CN2011103726399 A CN 2011103726399A CN 201110372639 A CN201110372639 A CN 201110372639A CN 102406576 A CN102406576 A CN 102406576A
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- Medicines Containing Plant Substances (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
The invention discloses a Prinsepia utilis Royle oil-containing functional skin care product and a preparation method thereof. The Prinsepia utilis Royle oil-containing functional skin care product is prepared from the following raw materials in part by weight: 1 to 2 parts of Prinsepia utilis Royle oil, 10 to 25 parts of purslane extracting solution, 5 parts of glycerol, 2 to 3 parts of 1,2-pentanediol, 5 to 7 parts of caprylic/caprictriglycerides, 2 parts of synthetic squalane, 1 to 5 parts of tocopheryl acetate, 1 to 3 parts of cetearyl alcohol, 0.1 to 0.2 part of allantoin, 0.6 to 0.9 part of coconut oil-base glucoside, 0.5 to 1 part of coconut oil alcohol, 0.5 to 2 parts of glyceryl stearate, 0.1 to 1 part of sodium hyaluronate and the balance of water. The functional skin care product has mild property and high safety without toxic or side reaction and anaphylactic reaction, can repair the destructed skin barrier, resists inflammation and skin ageing, and has a good effect and high safety of assisting in treating skin diseases related with skin barrier destruction, such as facial dermatitis (hormone dependence dermatitis, allergic dermatitis and acne), atopic dermatitis and the like.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of skin care item and preparation method thereof, particularly relate to a kind of Princepia utilis oil and ability auxiliary treatment and impaired relevant dermopathic effect property skin care item of skin barrier and preparation method thereof of containing.
Background technology
Be that cosmetics, the skin care item of main prescription receive publicity gradually and like in recent years with the natural component, continually develop new natural component skin care item, make it reach better skin Caring, skin effect, become the current important subject in this area.
In addition, the use to skin care item at present has been not limited to skin Caring, skin protection field, also extends to some dermopathic auxiliary treatment fields.Being example with the impaired relevant dermatosis of skin barrier; This is the modal clinically one type of dermatosis of department of dermatologry; Like dermatosiss such as sensitive skin, cosmetic dermatitis, steroid-dependent dermatitis, acne, chloasma, atopic dermatitiss, have a strong impact on patient's physical and mental health.How prior art is through external glucocorticoid or such dermatosis of immunomodulator treatment, but these medicines all have certain side effect, for example, use glucocorticoid can cause skin problems such as atrophoderma, pigmentation for a long time.Simultaneously; Because all there is the impaired situation of skin barrier in these dermatosiss, therefore, adopts medicines clinically more at present and have this type of skin care item therapeutic alliance dermatosis of effect property, safety; Not only side effects of pharmaceutical drugs can be reduced, also impaired skin barrier can be repaired simultaneously.
Princepia utilis (Prinsepi autilis Royle) is a kind of woody oleiferous plants plant, abounds with pollution-free area more than Lijing height above sea level two kms of Yunnan.Princepia utilis core can get the Princepia utilis oil of oil content more than 40% through the mechanical expression method; Wherein unsaturated fatty acid accounts for the oils and fats total amount more than 70%; As: oleic acid, linoleic acid, Palmic acid, palmitic olefinic acid, stearic acid, alpha-linolenic acid, gamma-Linolenic acid etc., and contain multivitamins such as A, D, E, K, because its contained content of fatty acid and ratio and people's epidermis lipid content are approaching; Therefore, Princepia utilis oil has the good moisture preserving effect.
How to found a kind of pure natural, have no side effect, have multiple skin effect, but and auxiliary treatment and the impaired relevant dermopathic Princepia utilis oil effect property skin care item and preparation method thereof that contain of skin barrier, be one of important subject of this area.
Summary of the invention
The purpose of this invention is to provide a kind of effect property skin care item that contain Princepia utilis oil, make its advantage that has pure natural, has no side effect, have multiple skin effect simultaneously, but and auxiliary treatment and the impaired relevant dermatosis of skin barrier.
The parts by weight of raw materials component that contains the effect property skin care item of Princepia utilis oil of the present invention is: 5 parts of 1～2 part of Princepia utilis oil, 10～25 parts of Herba Portulacae extract, glycerol, 1; 2～3 parts of 2-pentanediols, 5～7 parts of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 2 parts of synthetic squalanes, 1～5 part of tocopherol acetas, 1～3 part of cetearyl alcohol, 0.1～0.2 part of allantoin, 0.6～0.9 part of Coco-Glucoside, 0.5～1 part of cocoanut oil alcohol, 0.5～2 part of glyceryl stearate, 0.1～1 part of hyaluronate sodium, deionized water adds as for 100 parts.
Prepare the above-mentioned method that contains Princepia utilis oil effect property skin care item, may further comprise the steps: the A component is added in the kettle, and be heated to 75～80 ℃; The B component is added in the oil cauldron, and be heated to 75～80 ℃; A is organized solution in the emulsifying pot, mix with B group solution, and emulsifying 10min; Above-mentioned emulsion is cooled to 40 ℃, adds the C component, stir discharging behind the 10min, leave standstill, fill, packing.
Wherein:
The A component is: deionized water, glycerol, allantoin;
The B component is: Princepia utilis oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, synthetic squalane, tocopherol acetas, cetearyl alcohol, Coco-Glucoside, cocoanut oil alcohol, glyceryl stearate;
The C component is: Herba Portulacae extract, 1,2-pentanediol, hyaluronate sodium.
The present invention is through external, the interior experiment of body; Inquire into the Princepia utilis oil mechanism of preserving moisture; And the concentration that definite Princepia utilis oil adds in the skin care item is 1%; The expression that makes skin-protection product quality gentleness, good, the no toxicity of safety, do not have irritated reaction, can improve acid ceramidase, hyaluronidase-3; Thereby increase keratinocyte secretory nerve amide and hyaluronic content, can repair impaired skin barrier, find through clinical research; Have the effect of recovering skin barrier, anti-inflammatory, resisting age of skin, but auxiliary treatment steroid-dependent dermatitis, sensitive skin disease, atopic dermatitis, acne etc. have good curative effect and safety with the impaired relevant dermatosis of skin barrier.
Description of drawings
Below in conjunction with the accompanying drawing and the specific embodiment the present invention is done further detailed description.
Fig. 1 is the process flow diagram of the method for preparing of the present invention's skin care item of containing Princepia utilis oil.
Fig. 2 is a Herba Portulacae extract extraction separation flow chart.
The specific embodiment
The prescription of embodiment 1-4 is following table (unit is a weight portion)
Prepare the above-mentioned method that contains the skin care item of Princepia utilis oil: the A component is added in the kettle, and be heated to 75～80 ℃; The B component is added in the oil cauldron, and be heated to 75～80 ℃; A is organized solution in the emulsifying pot, mix with B group solution, and emulsifying 10min; Above-mentioned emulsion is cooled to 40 ℃, adds the C component, stir discharging behind the 10min, leave standstill 36 hours, fill, packing.Prepare white at last to fallow mastic, mastic is fine and smooth, uniformity.Test item is that outward appearance, abnormal smells from the patient, heat-resisting, cold-resistant, pH value, microorganism detection, reference standard and mode see common vetch promise Na cream frost serial quality specification standards to be packaged (H-TS-ZL-0357) for details.
The Herba Portulacae extract method for distilling:
Plant origin: Herba Portulacae belongs to Portulacaceae, Portulaca (Portulaca oleracea L), another name: horse Herba Amaranthi tricoloris, five elements' grass, long life dish, five FANGCAO, Semen Benincasae dish, rope made of hemp dish, Dens Equi dish, horse Caulis et Folium Lactucae Sativae.
The Herba Portulacae medical material is used 75% alcohol reflux, extracting liquid filtering, concentrated, and filtrating is filtered with the ADS-7 macroporous resin; Through washing; Water elution liquid obtains the Herba Portulacae crystal through concentrated, crystallization, filtration, drying, and the Herba Portulacae crystal in 1% ratio (w/l), is dissolved with purified water; Filter, get Herba Portulacae extract.
Carry out experiment in vitro with 1% concentration Princepia utilis oil, inquire into the Princepia utilis oil mechanism of preserving moisture: the cultivating people's keratinocyte, establish matched group and experimental group; Matched group does not add Princepia utilis oil; Experimental group adds 1% Princepia utilis oil, respectively at the supernatant that 0h, 3h, 8h, 24h, 48h get experimental group and matched group, measures Cer, HA content in the supernatant with the ELISA method; Related data carries out the independent sample t check, and < 0.05 has significant difference to P.
Experimental result:
Through experiment in vitro, confirm that 1% Princepia utilis oil can promote keratinocyte secretory nerve amide, hyaluronic acid, increased epidermis ceramide, hyaluronic content, reach moisture-keeping function.
The present invention is through experiment (zoopery) in the body; Clear and definite Princepia utilis oil adds the concentration in the skin care item to: destroy the nude mice epidermal barrier with acetone and ether, be divided into four districts (receive examination district 1, receive examination district 2, substrate district, blank district), tried to distinguish 1, tried to distinguish 2 and use the skin care item that contain 1%, 2% Princepia utilis oil concentration to be coated with respectively to put on the skin; The substrate district is coated with puts the Emulsion that does not contain Princepia utilis oil on the skin; And establish the blank district, through epidermis water loss (TEWL), sebum level and moisture, get the nude mice skin histology respectively at 0h, 1 day, 3 days, 7 days mensuration nude mice skin simultaneously; Express with Using immunohistochemical acid ceramidase (ASH1); RT-PCR measures hyaluronidase-3 (HAS-3) expression in the tissue, and non-invasive skin test result adopts the independent sample t check to carry out data analysis, and < 0.05 for there being significant difference for P; The immunohistochemical experiment result carries out the Wann-Whitney rank test of two independent sample ranked data, and < 0.05 for there being significant difference for P; The RT-PCR experimental result adopts the relative quantitative assay method, defines the difference multiple>2 or 0.5 for genetic transcription variant.
Non-invasive skin is measured the result and is shown:
TEWL (moisture of skin loss tester): increase in time; Four district TEWL values reduce gradually; Tried to distinguish 1 and when being tried to distinguish 2 TEWL value 3d, 7d and 0d relatively, significant difference (P < 0.05) is arranged.Same times four district TEWL value relatively during 7d, is tried to distinguish 1, to be tried to distinguish 2 TEWL value low than substrate district and blank district, and difference has significance (P < 0.05), but two receive examination distinguish between no significant difference (P>0.05).
The immunohistochemical experiment result shows:
Tried to distinguish 1, tried to distinguish 2, the expression 7d of substrate district and blank district ASH1 is high than 0d, difference has significance (P < 0.05); It is high than substrate district and blank district to be tried to distinguish 1,2 expression in the time of 7 days, and difference has significance (P < 0.05), but receives no significant difference between the examination district 1 and 2 (P>0.05).
The RT-PCR experimental result shows:
obviously raise by examination district 1:HAS-3 expression; Compare with the substrate district; When 3d, 7d, HAS-3 expresses apparently higher than the substrate district; Compare with the blank district, when 1d, 3d, 7d, HAS-3 expresses apparently higher than the blank district.
receives examination district 2:HAS-3 to express 1d apparently higher than 0d; Reduce then; Compare with matrix group; When 1d, 3d, 7d, HAS-3 expresses and all is starkly lower than the substrate district; Compare with the blank district, HAS-3 expresses 3d, 7d then is starkly lower than the blank district.
The result shows, contains the expression that 1% and 2% Princepia utilis oil can raise nude mice epidermis ASH1, HAS-3, thereby increases epidermis ceramide, hyaluronic synthetic; Has moisture-keeping efficacy; Both moisture-keeping efficacies are suitable, but because Princepia utilis oil contains the volume fatty acid, should not preserve; Therefore, selecting 1% Princepia utilis oil is the suitable concentration that adds in the skin care item.
In to resisting age of skin, Princepia utilis oil has preserves moisture and the skin regeneration repair, has the dermal osmosis ability simultaneously, helps the reorganization and the generation of collagen fibers of skin with embodiment 1, increases skin elasticity, the skin that compacts, desalination microgroove.
With the skin lesion that embodiment 2 is sick in steroid-dependent dermatitis, sensitive skin, acne causes; Increase hyaluronic acid, Herba Portulacae extract proportioning; Cooperate under the Princepia utilis oil at hyaluronic acid, Herba Portulacae extract, the cutaneous sensibility of releiving, deep moisturizing are for skin replenishes moisture content.(Emulsion)
With the skin lesion that embodiment 3 is sick in steroid-dependent dermatitis, sensitive skin, acne causes; Increase the tocopherol acetas ratio; Tocopherol acetas cooperates Princepia utilis oil, in the cutaneous sensibility of releiving, for skin provides the lipid components than horn of plenty; Recover skin barrier, deep moisturizing, for skin replenishes moisture content.(cream)
In atopic dermatitis, increase the hyaluronic acid composition with embodiment 4, cooperate Princepia utilis oil, multiple moisturizing and nourishing elite, multiple-effect is preserved moisture, and combined effect helps to recover skin barrier, persistent nourishing and the unusual exsiccant skin of releiving.
Adopt multicenter, treat the clinical trial method of cross-reference at random, with the clinical experiment of the effect property skin care item auxiliary treatment skin aging that contains Princepia utilis oil of embodiment 1 preparation.
Resisting age of skin clinical trial: filter out 93 experimenters with skin aging characteristic through doctor's clinical diagnosis; Evenly be applied in face with the embodiment of the invention 1 skin care item; Every day 2 times; Use continuously after 3 months assessment and experimenter's skin aging journey to improve degree, and adopt non-invasive skinanalysis apparatus before treatment, treatment carried out the skin physiology functional test to experimenter's skin respectively in back 30 days, 60 days, 90 days and assesses.After the experimenter used skin care item of the present invention, the skin aging degree of being tried the position improved.With Moisture Meter-SC 40 routine experimenters are carried out the horny layer water content detection, data are normal distribution, meet homogeneity of variance, use one factor analysis of variance, F=6.040, p < 0.01 (p=0.003).Divide into groups to compare with 90 days cuticlar waters with the LSD method, horny layer moisture all had significant difference in 30 days, 60 days.Wherein 90 days cuticlar water divided data are maximum.
Table: the assessment that skin care item of the present invention improve the skin aging degree
Adopt multicenter, treat the clinical trial method of cross-reference at random; With the effect property skin care item auxiliary treatment oiliness sensitive skin that contains Princepia utilis oil of embodiment 2 preparation, with the clinical experiment of the effect property skin care item auxiliary treatment dryness sensitive skin that contains Princepia utilis oil of embodiment 3 preparations.
Sensitive skin: choose 110 sensitive skin experimenters; Wherein, Do, neutral sensitive skin experimenter 80 examples, oiliness sensitive skin experimenter 30 examples; Oiliness sensitive skin experimenter reaches and does, neutral sensitive skin experimenter evenly is applied in face with embodiment 2 and embodiment 3 skin care item respectively; Every day 2 times, used continuously 1 month, and adopt non-invasive skinanalysis apparatus before treatment, treatment carried out the skin physiology functional test, simultaneously lactic acid test, skin lesion recovery situation, experimenter estimated the satisfaction and the safety of this product experimenter's skin respectively in back 7 days, 15 days, 30 days.Treat after 30 days, dried, neutral sensitive skin group moisture improves 4.14%, and fat content improves 21.1%; Oily skin group moisture on average improves 4.36%; Fat content on average descends 9.7%, and relatively, p < 0.001 before and after the treatment; Have statistical significance, and elasticity compares not statistically significant; Lactic acid test positive rate reduces to 9% from 100%, p 0.001, have statistical significance; Skin lesion improver 87 people account for 79.09%; P＜0.001 has statistical significance; The patient reaches 68.18% to the satisfaction of this product.Any untoward reaction does not appear in experiment.Thereby confirmation the present invention contains the skin care item of Princepia utilis oil sensitive skin is had the auxiliary treatment effect, can recover skin barrier function, safety is good, is worth clinical application.
Table: dryness, each parameter value of neutral skin are observed n=80 p < 0.05
| Monitoring project | Before the treatment | Treated 7 | Treated 15 | Treated 30 |
| Moisture | 71.53±3.34 | 72.21±3.06 | 72.72±2.74 | 74.49±2.87 |
| P value before and after the treatment | ? | 0.001 | ＜0.001 | ＜0.001 |
| Oils and fats | 74.30±29.19 | 74.19±21.71 | 79.36±17.05 | 90.01±11.45 |
| P value before and after the treatment | ? | 0.956 | 0.025 | ＜0.001 |
| Elasticity | 0.7686±0.0935 | 0.7869±0.0955 | 0.7903±0.0883 | 0.7932±0.0802 |
| P value before and after the treatment | ? | 0.170 | 0.102 | 0.054 |
| The skin degree | 2.38±0.72 | 2.11±0.71 | 1.54±0.67 | 1.31±0.63 |
| P value before and after the treatment | ? | ＜0.001 | ＜0.001 | ＜0.001 |
| The lactic acid test | 3.79±0.83 | 3.01±0.75 | 2.12±0.9 | 1.75±0.75 |
| P value before and after the treatment | ? | ＜0.001 | ＜0.001 | ＜0.001 |
Table: each parameter value of oily skin is observed n=30 p < 0.05
| Monitoring project | Before the treatment | Treated 7 | Treated 15 | Treated 30 |
| Moisture | 71.95±2.34 | 72.59±1.93 | 73.28±2.05 | 75.09±1.67 |
| P value before and after the treatment | ? | 0.004 | ＜0.001 | ＜0.001 |
| Oils and fats | 247.13±41.90 | 240.36±39.36 | 232.83±40.96 | 223.23±40.19 |
| P value before and after the treatment | ? | ＜0.001 | ＜0.001 | ＜0.001 |
| Elasticity | 0.8382±0.0957 | 0.7970±0.0888 | 0.7963±0.0890 | 0.7949±0.0921 |
| P value before and after the treatment | ? | 0.056 | 0.052 | 0.051 |
| The skin degree | 2.2±0.89 | 2.03±0.72 | 1.67±0.80 | 1.07±0.69 |
| P value before and after the treatment | ? | 0.134 | ＜0.001 | ＜0.001 |
| The lactic acid test | 3.06±0.45 | 3.0±0.26 | 2.76±0.43 | 1.60±0.5 |
| P value before and after the treatment | ? | 0.161 | 0.017 | ＜0.001 |
Adopt multicenter, treat the clinical trial method of cross-reference at random, with the clinical experiment of the effect property skin care item auxiliary treatment atopic dermatitis that contains Princepia utilis oil of embodiment 4 preparations.
Atopic dermatitis: selected patient's 40 examples, the experimenter gets left-right symmetric position erythra and observes as the target skin lesion, is tried side and uses the embodiment of the invention 4 skin care item; Control sides is not used any medicine; After medication 3 days, 7 days, paid a return visit respectively in 14 days; By researcher and patient skin lesion, aridity and subjective symptom are marked, estimate the clinical efficacy and the safety of this wetting agent.The result shows: researcher evaluation, medication be after 3 days, and two groups of patients are tried side and control sides target skin lesion overall score there was no significant difference (P>0.05), but aridity is marked significant difference is arranged (P < 0.05); After the medication 7 days, two groups of skin lesion overall scores have significant difference (P < 0.05); After the medication 14 days, there were significant differences for two groups of skin lesion scoring situation (P < 0.01), and wherein the evaluation with erythema and aridity descends the most obviously (p < 0.01), soaks into plump skin lesion improvement not obvious (P < 0.05).The improvement of patient's evaluating skin aridity and desquamation is the most remarkable, medication after 3 days two groups significant difference (P < 0.05) is relatively arranged, medication after 14 days two groups significant difference (P < 0.01) is relatively arranged.Medication is erythema have clear improvement (P < 0.01) after 14 days.Medication 3 days, after 7 days, pruritus does not all have obvious improvement the (P>0.05), and medication is after 14 days, and pruritus is improved two groups relatively has significant difference (P < 0.05).After the medication 7 days, 14 days, two groups of skin lesion overall scores have significant difference (P 0.05, P 0.01).
Table: researcher is improved assessment (x ± s branch) to trying the scoring of side and control sides target skin lesion
Table: the patient is to the assessment (x ± s branch) with subjective symptoms scoring improvement of self sign
Confirm through above animal and clinical experiment; Functions such as the skin care item that the present invention contains Princepia utilis oil have the skin barrier of recovery, preserve moisture, aging resistance, and aspect the impaired relevant dermatosis of skin barrier, have good curative effect at auxiliary treatment skin aging, sensitive skin, facial dermatitis, atopic dermatitis etc.
Claims (2)
1. one kind contains Princepia utilis oil effect property skin care item; It is characterized in that its parts by weight of raw materials component is: 5 parts of 1～2 part of Princepia utilis oil, 10～25 parts of Herba Portulacae extract, glycerol, 1; 2～3 parts of 2-pentanediols, 5～7 parts of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 2 parts of synthetic squalanes, 1～5 part of tocopherol acetas, 1～3 part of cetearyl alcohol, 0.1～0.2 part of allantoin, 0.6～0.9 part of Coco-Glucoside, 0.5～1 part of cocoanut oil alcohol, 0.5～2 part of glyceryl stearate, 0.1～1 part of hyaluronate sodium, deionized water adds as for 100 parts; Prepare the above-mentioned method that contains Princepia utilis oil effect property skin care item: the A component is added in the kettle, and be heated to 75～80 ℃; The B component is added in the oil cauldron, and be heated to 75～80 ℃; A is organized solution in the emulsifying pot, mix with B group solution, and emulsifying 10min; Above-mentioned emulsion is cooled to 40 ℃, adds the C component, stir discharging behind the 10min, leave standstill, fill, packing;
Wherein:
The A component is: deionized water, glycerol, allantoin;
The B component is: Princepia utilis oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, synthetic squalane, tocopherol acetas, cetearyl alcohol, Coco-Glucoside, cocoanut oil alcohol, glyceryl stearate;
The C component is: Herba Portulacae extract, 1,2-pentanediol, hyaluronate sodium.
2. the method for preparing that contains Princepia utilis oil effect property skin care item of claim 1 is characterized in that the A component is added in the kettle, and is heated to 75～80 ℃; The B component is added in the oil cauldron, and be heated to 75～80 ℃; A is organized solution in the emulsifying pot, mix with B group solution, and emulsifying 10min; Above-mentioned emulsion is cooled to 40 ℃, adds the C component, stir discharging behind the 10min, leave standstill, fill, packing;
Wherein:
The A component is: deionized water, glycerol, allantoin;
The B component is: Princepia utilis oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, synthetic squalane, tocopherol acetas, cetearyl alcohol, Coco-Glucoside, cocoanut oil alcohol, glyceryl stearate;
The C component is: Herba Portulacae extract, 1,2-pentanediol, hyaluronate sodium.
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