Classifications

• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D03—WEAVING
  • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
  • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
  • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
  • D03D15/292—Conjugate, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, fibres or filaments
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
  • D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
  • D01F8/00—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof
  • D01F8/04—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers
  • D01F8/14—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers with at least one polyester as constituent
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
  • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
  • D02G1/00—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
  • D02G1/18—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by combining fibres, filaments, or yarns, having different shrinkage characteristics
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
  • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
  • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
  • D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
  • D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
  • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
  • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
  • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
  • D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D03—WEAVING
  • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
  • D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D03—WEAVING
  • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
  • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
  • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
  • D03D15/283—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D03—WEAVING
  • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
  • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
  • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
  • D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D03—WEAVING
  • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
  • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
  • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
  • D03D15/49—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads textured; curled; crimped
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D03—WEAVING
  • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
  • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
  • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
  • D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D03—WEAVING
  • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
  • D03D7/00—Woven fabrics designed to be resilient, i.e. to recover from compressive stress
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
  • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
  • D10B2331/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
  • D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
  • D10B2401/061—Load-responsive characteristics elastic
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
  • D10B2401/14—Dyeability
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2509/00—Medical; Hygiene

Definitions

• the present invention relates to stretch fabrics and textile products.
• stretch fabrics are often used for everyday wear and sports shirts, jackets, and bottoms.
• fabrics using elastic fibers such as polyurethane, and stretchable fabrics using crimps of two-component fibers typified by side-by-side type yarns for the purpose of weight reduction. is used.
• Patent Document 1 A method has been proposed in which a stretchable fabric is obtained by using crimped yarn and attaching an elastomer resin compound to the surface of the fabric.
• Patent Document 2 a method of producing a fabric with excellent stretchability using spun yarn and two-component crimped yarn has been proposed.
• Patent Document 3 discloses a suede-like woven or knitted fabric having stretchability using a polyester mixed yarn composed of two or more types of polyester multifilaments including side-by-side multifilaments.
• the woven and knitted fabrics specifically disclosed in Patent Document 3 are: It was a heavy suede-like woven or knitted fabric, and did not have both lightness and stretchability.
• the present invention is intended to solve the problems that cannot be achieved by these prior arts, and to provide an unprecedented stretchable woven fabric that is comfortable to wear due to its light weight and multi-directional stretchability, and that has a natural fiber tone. Make it an issue.
• the present inventors have found that a stretchable fiber in which different two-component polymers are molded in a side-by-side or eccentric core-sheath type for part of the warp and weft, and At least one of the warp and weft yarns contains the stretchable fiber and the multifilament that is different from the stretchable fiber.
• the inventors have found that both the stretchability and the natural fiber-like texture of the fabric can be achieved, and have completed the present invention. That is, the present invention has the following configurations.
• the different two-component polymer is a combination selected from a combination of different polymers having different structures and a combination of polymers having different intrinsic viscosities, and the polymer is a polyester-based polymer selected from polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate.
• a stretch fabric having a basis weight of 100 g/m 2 to 200 g/m 2 .
• a stretch fabric that is lightweight and has excellent multi-directional stretch, is excellent in wear comfort, and can realize a natural fiber-like texture.
• both the warp and the weft contain stretchable fibers, and one or both of the warp and wefts are mixed with the stretchable fiber and a multifilament different from the stretchable fiber.
• composite textured yarn consisting of It relates to a stretch fabric having a basis weight of 100-200 g/m 2 .
• the stretchable fiber in the present invention is a fiber in which two different polymers are intentionally arranged in the longitudinal direction of the fiber, and its form is a side-by-side type in which the two components are arranged as if they are bonded together, or an eccentric core. It is a fiber that forms a sheath structure. In such a form, the fibers are distorted due to the difference in shrinkage between the two components due to the heat treatment during processing, and the fibers take the form of three-dimensional coil crimp due to the difference in elastic recovery rate and heat shrinkage properties. The fibers are thereby imparted with mechanical stretchability. In the present invention, such fibers are called stretchable fibers.
• the different two-component polymers used for the stretchable fiber include a combination of polymers that can cause a difference in shrinkage by heat treatment during processing, a combination of different types of polymers with different structures, and a combination of polymers with different intrinsic viscosities. selected from combinations of these.
• a polyester-based polymer is preferred from the standpoint of fiber heat setting. Specific examples include polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate, and the polyester polymer is selected from these.
• these polymers may contain other copolymerization components within the range where the desired effect can be obtained. Such are therefore also included within the scope of the above polymer. It is also possible to combine polymers of the same type or polymers with different intrinsic viscosities.
• a combination of polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate, and a combination of polyethylene terephthalates having different intrinsic viscosities may be used.
• a combination of polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate is preferred from the viewpoint of crimp development due to shrinkage difference.
• the polymer preferably contains a matting agent.
• matting agents include titanium dioxide and the like.
• the content of the matting agent in the polymer is preferably 0.5 to 3.0% by mass, more preferably 1.0 to 2.5% by mass. Further, it is desirable that the titanium oxide used for matting should be kept in a sufficiently dispersed state and maintained in a good dispersed state in the polymer obtained by polymerization. In general, the dispersed state of titanium oxide in the polymer preferably has an average particle size of 0.2 to 0.6 ⁇ m, more preferably 0.4 ⁇ m or less.
• the composite ratio of the two-component polymers constituting the stretchable fiber is preferably in the range of 8:2 to 2:8 as a mass ratio. It is more preferably 4:6 to 6:4. By setting it in this range, it becomes possible not only to obtain suitable crimps due to the difference in shrinkage, but also to perform stable production.
• the single filament fineness of the stretchable fibers is preferably 0.5 dtex to 3.0 dtex, more preferably 1.0 dtex to 2.0 dtex.
• the single yarn fineness is 0.5 dtex or more, not only excellent stretchability and suitable wear comfort can be obtained, but also excellent production stability in the spinning process.
• the single yarn fineness is 3.0 dtex or less, excellent stretchability is obtained, the rigidity of the fiber does not become too high, the texture of the fabric is not stiff, and not only is it comfortable to wear, but also The glare peculiar to synthetic fibers due to surface reflected light is sufficiently suppressed, and an excellent natural fiber tone can be obtained.
• the composite textured yarn defined in the present invention is not a textured yarn made of a single fiber bundle, but a mixture of different fiber bundles of the stretchable fiber and the multifilament fiber different from the stretchable fiber. It is. It is a composite textured yarn obtained by false twisting or false twisting by air entangling after false twisting, taslan processed taslan textured yarn, or plied twisted yarn.
• composite processed yarn which consists of a core thread and a sheath thread, has a thread length difference for each, and constitutes a sheath thread loop, is a natural fiber that reproduces the fuzziness of cotton material.
• either one or both of the fiber bundles are subjected to thick and thin processing to give thick speckles in the direction of the fiber axis. Suitable for reproducing tones.
• the mass ratio of the stretchable fibers constituting the composite textured yarn of the present invention is preferably 20-70% by mass. More preferably, it is 30 to 50% by mass. By setting it as this range, it becomes possible to make both stretchability and a natural fiber tone compatible.
• the multifilament fiber different from the stretchable fiber used in the composite textured yarn is not particularly limited, but it is preferably a multifilament consisting of a single component.
• a multifilament consisting of a single component may be a mixture of one component or two or more components as a material, but a multifilament composed of the same material as a component constituting the entire fiber. say.
• the multifilament fibers include polyester multifilaments and polyamide multifilaments.
• the polyester constituting the polyester-based multifilament is preferably polyethylene terephthalate or polyethylene terephthalate copolymer, and the polyethylene terephthalate copolymer is preferably cationic dyeable polyethylene terephthalate.
• multifilament fibers composed of a polymer having a basic skeleton that is the same as or common to at least one of the polymers that constitute the stretchable fibers are preferred in order to enhance the same dyeing property. Therefore, since the stretchable fiber is composed of a polyester-based polymer, it is preferably a polyester-based multifilament.
• polyethylene terephthalate is included as a polymer constituting the stretchable fiber, it is preferable to use a polyethylene terephthalate-based multifilament or a polyethylene terephthalate copolymer-based multifilament having similar dyeability.
• a delustering agent in the material that constitutes the multifilament fiber.
• matting agents include titanium dioxide and the like.
• the content of the matting agent is preferably 0.5-3.0% by mass, more preferably 1.0-2.5% by mass in the multifilament fiber. Further, it is desirable that the titanium oxide used for matting should be kept in a sufficiently dispersed state and maintained in a good dispersed state in the polymer obtained by polymerization. In general, the dispersed state of titanium oxide in the polymer preferably has an average particle size of 0.2 to 0.6 ⁇ m, more preferably 0.4 ⁇ m or less.
• multifilament fiber other materials such as fine particles such as silica as a slipping agent and coloring pigments can be added as necessary within a range that does not impair the effects of the present invention.
• the cross-sectional shape perpendicular to the fiber axis of the multifilament fiber (hereinafter referred to as the cross-sectional shape) is not particularly selected, but in addition to the circular cross section, the flat cross section, polygonal fibers such as triangular and star-shaped fibers, Variant cross-sections such as multi-lobed cross-sections and cross-sections combining these can be used.
• the modified cross section is preferable in that glare peculiar to synthetic fibers can be suppressed.
• the multifilament fiber may be a textured yarn subjected to mechanical stretching such as false twisting.
• a multi-leaf cross section preferably a multi-leaf cross section of 6 to 8 lobes.
• a flat multi-leaf cross section is also preferable as the multi-leaf cross section.
• the form of the mixed fiber is a false twisted yarn or a false twisted yarn obtained by false twisting and then air entangling.
• taslan-processed taslan-processed yarn, plied and twisted plied yarn, mixed fiber entangled yarn, and the like it is also possible to apply a thick-and-thin process to either one or both of the fiber bundles in the course of processing to impart thick speckles in the direction of the fiber axis.
• the composite textured yarn can be a twisted yarn, which makes it possible to control the nuances of the natural fiber tone.
• composite textured yarn satisfying the following configurations (a1) to (a3) (referred to as yarn A).
• Stretchable fiber Stretchable fiber having polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate as different two-component polymers
• Multifilament fiber Cationic dyeable polyester multifilament containing 0.5 to 3.0% by mass of matting agent False twisted textured yarn
• Composite textured yarn Composite textured yarn having a core-sheath composite structure with a stretchable fiber as a core yarn and a multifilament fiber as a sheath yarn with a yarn length difference of 3 to 8%.
• the stretch fabric of the present invention can be given a particularly excellent texture as a heathered natural fiber such as a wool material, a composite textured yarn (hereinafter referred to as a composite textured yarn) that satisfies the following configurations (b1) to (b3) (referred to as textured yarn B), and more preferably satisfies (b4) in addition to the above.
• a composite textured yarn hereinafter referred to as a composite textured yarn
• textured yarn B referred to as textured yarn B
• Stretchable fiber Stretchable fiber with polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate as different two-component polymers
• Multifilament fiber Cationic dyeable polyester multifilament containing 0.5 to 3.0% by mass of matting agent False twisted textured yarn
• Composite textured yarn Each of the stretchable fiber and the multifilament fiber has thick speckles in the fiber axis direction, these have a mixed fiber entangled structure, and the yarn length difference is 0 to 2. %.
• Additional twisted yarn By twisting the b3 composite textured yarn, heather tone may be adjusted.
• the twist coefficient (K) is in the range of 6,000 to 18,000.
• Twist factor (K) number of actual twists T (T: number of twists per meter of yarn length) x ⁇ D (D: total fineness of yarn (dtex))
• the total fineness of the composite textured yarn is preferably in the range of 100 to 300 dtex. It is preferable to use fibers in this range in order to achieve both physical properties such as tear strength necessary for clothing, natural fiber-like surface texture, and light weight.
• the total fineness is 100 dtex or more, the physical properties and stiffness of the fabric are excellent, and when the total fineness is 300 dtex or less, the mass of the fabric is light, and further excellent wearing comfort can be obtained.
• the maximum heat shrinkage stress of the composite textured yarn is preferably 15 cN or more, more preferably 20 cN or more.
• polyurethane elastic thread In the present invention, it is possible to use polyurethane elastic yarn as a complement of stretchability, but in order to maintain the lightness of the fabric, the usage ratio is 0 to 5% by mass with respect to the mass of the stretchable fabric. It is preferable to The polyurethane elastic thread can also be used in the form of a covered thread by subjecting it to a covering process. When it is used as a covering yarn, it is preferable to use an elastic urethane yarn as a core and a non-elastic multifilament or the stretchable fiber as the covering yarn.
• the stretch fabric of the present invention contains the stretchable fiber in at least a portion of both the warp and the weft, and the composite textured yarn in one or both of the warp and the weft.
• the composite textured yarn may be included in both the warp and the weft (hereinafter referred to as ⁇ stretch fabric 2'').
• the "stretchable fiber in a different aspect from the composite textured yarn in the other weft or warp" used in the stretch fabric 1 is not particularly limited as long as it is the stretchable fiber described above, but stretchability and elastic recovery From the viewpoint of yield, the crimped yarn of stretchable fibers is preferable in terms of lightness and natural fiber-like texture.
• the total fineness of the stretchable fibers is preferably 100-300 dtex, more preferably 100-250 dtex.
• the stretchable woven fabric 2 is a preferred embodiment in that it is particularly excellent in the texture of natural fibers such as cotton or wool.
• both the warp and the weft contain the above-mentioned composite textured yarn B in terms of further improving the heathered texture of natural fibers such as wool.
• a non-twisted yarn is used for the warp or weft, and a twisted yarn is used for the other weft or warp, or a different number of twists is used for the warp and weft. can be changed.
• composite fibers other than composite textured yarns and stretchable fibers (hereinafter referred to as “combined fibers”) in the warp or weft.
• the combined fibers are not limited as long as the stretchable fabric of the present invention can be obtained.
• Covering thread used as thread is mentioned.
• the content when the urethane elastic thread is used is as described above.
• False-twisted yarn is preferable as the crimped yarn.
• examples of the material constituting the crimped yarn include disperse dye-dyeable polyester such as polyethylene terephthalate and cationic dye-dyeable polyester such as cationic dyeable polyethylene terephthalate copolymer.
• the total fineness of the fibers used in combination is preferably 100 to 300 dtex, more preferably 100 to 250 dtex.
• polyethylene terephthalate false-twisted yarn is particularly preferred. Further, it is more preferable to use a cationic dyeable polyester false twisted yarn to obtain a heathered tone, from the point that a natural fiber-like texture can be obtained due to the difference in dyeing.
• Such combined fibers are arranged alternately in the warp or weft, for example, 1 to 4 of each of the composite textured yarn or stretchable fiber and the combined fiber are alternately arranged in the same number, or 1 to 4 combined fibers ( n), it is preferable to use the composite textured yarn or the stretchable fiber (n+1 to 5n) alternately arranged.
• the ratio of use in the warp or weft is preferably 80% by mass or less from the viewpoint of obtaining stretchability and natural fiber-like texture, and is 50% by mass or less. is more preferable.
• “independently” means that it may be contained only in the warp, only in the weft, or contained in both, and the content thereof may also be different.
• the content of the composite textured yarn in the warp or weft independently from the viewpoint of obtaining stretchability and natural fiber-like texture is preferably 20% by mass or more, more preferably 50% by mass or more, and most preferably 100% by mass.
• the proportion of the stretchable fiber in the warp or the weft is 20% by mass or more. It is preferably 50% by mass or more, and most preferably 100% by mass.
• polyester-based multifilament such as polyethylene terephthalate
• polyester undrawn yarn can be obtained by spinning polyester by a conventional method.
• a drawn yarn is obtained by drawing this undrawn yarn, and the draw ratio and temperature conditions may be appropriately adjusted depending on whether the cross section of the fiber is made uniform in the axial direction or the fiber has a thick portion.
• Other multifilament fibers may also be produced by appropriately arranging them according to the raw materials.
• a polyester undrawn yarn can be obtained by spinning, for example, polyethylene terephthalate as a multifilament fiber different from the stretchable fiber used in the composite textured yarn by a normal method.
• a drawn yarn is obtained by drawing this undrawn yarn, and the draw ratio and temperature conditions may be appropriately adjusted depending on whether the cross section of the fiber is made uniform in the axial direction or the fiber has a thick portion.
• Composite processing is performed using the obtained two fibers to obtain a composite textured yarn.
• Composite processing methods include plied yarn, taslan processing, plied twist, and mixed yarn. Furthermore, it is also possible to combine these with one or more of stretching, false twisting, thick-and-thin processing, and the like.
• the stretchable fiber is A yarn and the multifilament fiber different from the stretchable fiber is B yarn
• the B yarn is fed in excess of the A yarn
• the mixed yarn is entangled with each other by the mixed fiber nozzle.
• a method of making processed yarn By increasing the feeding amount of the B yarn to 3 to 8% more than the A yarn, a loop of the B yarn is formed in the mixed fiber processed yarn, and a form simulating natural fiber fluff can be obtained.
• the mixed fiber nozzle can be selected from a rectifying nozzle, a turbulent flow nozzle, etc., but it is preferable to use a turbulent flow nozzle that facilitates loop formation.
• the drawn yarn having thick details in the fiber axis direction of the A yarn and / or the B yarn is false twisted and then air mixed. It is possible to obtain a heterogeneous mixed fiber processed yarn capable of imparting a heathered tone like a wool material.
• the stretchable fiber and composite textured yarn thus obtained are used as part of the warp and/or weft to obtain a woven fabric.
• Machines for fabricating fabrics are preferably air jet looms (AJL), more preferably rapier looms.
• AJL air jet looms
• WJL water jet loom
• AJL water jet loom
• the stretchability of the fabric is expressed by the stretchable fiber and composite textured yarn.
• processing tension is applied in the warp direction of the fabric. Therefore, in order to suppress the processing tension, it is preferable to adopt techniques such as shake-off fabric storage between processes, net drying, and fabric drive-in heat setting.
• Such fabrics may be appropriately given various functional finishes, such as water-absorbing, water-repellent, flame-retardant, UV-shielding, antibacterial and deodorizing, and antistatic treatments.
• the fabric weight after processing is 100 to 200 g/m 2 , preferably 100 to 170 g/m 2 .
• the total fineness and weaving density of the weaving yarns used for the warp and weft may be appropriately adjusted, and furthermore, adjustment may be made according to the weaving structure.
• the cover factor represented by the formula described later the total fineness of the weaving yarn and the weaving density can be adjusted from the range of 1650 to 2800 so as to achieve the above basis weight.
• the cover factor after fabric processing is 1800 to 2200, for example, in plain weave fabrics.
• the cover factor is preferably 2,000 or more because if a woven fabric with the same stiffness as that of a plain weave is to be obtained, the cover factor is relatively increased.
• the stretch fabric of the present invention thus obtained has excellent multidirectional stretchability, and in a preferred embodiment, it is possible to achieve an elongation rate of 12% or more in both the warp and weft directions. can achieve an elongation of 15% or more in both the warp and weft directions.
• the stretch fabric thus obtained is lightweight, comfortable to wear due to its multi-directional stretchability, and has a natural fiber tone.
• the stretch fabric of the present invention is lightweight and comfortable to wear due to its multi-directional stretchability, and has a natural fiber tone, so it can be suitably used for various applications such as clothing and sleeping bags.
• ⁇ Heat shrinkage stress> Using a thermal shrinkage stress measuring device TYPE KE-2S, apply an initial load of 1/11.1 g/dtex to the sample that has been conditioned for 24 hours in an environment of 20 ° C. x 65% RH, and measure according to the prescribed work procedure. I do. The same measurement was performed 5 times, and the average maximum thermal shrinkage stress was obtained.
• CF ⁇ warp density (books/2.54 cm) ⁇ ⁇ total warp fineness (dtex) ⁇ + ⁇ weft density (books/2.54 cm) ⁇ ⁇ total weft fineness (dtex) ⁇ ⁇ Difference in yarn length between stretchable fiber and multifilament fiber>
• a load of 0.08826 cN/dtex is applied to the mixed yarn, and the yarn is fixed at a length of 10 cm to a twist detector. If the yarn is twisted at this time, turn the twister to untwist it.
• a load of 0.08826 cN/dtex is applied again.
• the shorter fiber (referred to as fiber A) is in a tense state
• the other fiber (referred to as fiber B) is longer than fiber A, so the tension is increased. It will be in a loose state without hanging.
• the yarn length in this state is measured. Let this value be YL(A). Fiber A is then cut with scissors. This time, the fiber B component is in a state of being stretched. The yarn length in this state is measured. Let this value be YL(B). Calculate the yarn length difference according to the following formula.
• Yarn length difference (%) [ ⁇ YL (B) - YL (A) ⁇ / YL (A)] x 100
• a total of 5 test sample yarns are randomly selected from one sample yarn, and a total of 5 measurements are performed. The five measured values are averaged (rounded to the second decimal place) to obtain the yarn length difference.
• ⁇ Percentage of stretchable fibers in composite textured yarn> Prepare 90 cm of composite textured yarn, measure the mass, and confirm the mass of the entire fiber. Observe the fiber cross section, carefully separate the fiber bundles with polymer interfaces from those with no polymer interfaces using tweezers, etc., measure the mass of the fiber bundles with polymer interfaces, and measure the mass before separation. The ratio was obtained from the mass of the fiber bundle. A sample is obtained by extracting a thread to be measured from the woven fabric. If the sample length is less than 90 cm, multiple samples shall be collected until the total length is 90 cm.
• Example 1 First, an 87 dtex/48 filament made of polyethylene terephthalate (PET) and polybutylene terephthalate (PBT) (titanium dioxide content: PET 1.4% by mass, PBT 1.5% by mass) was drawn as a core yarn, and heated with a heater. A heat treatment was performed at a temperature of 168° C. to obtain a core yarn of 55 dtex of composite textured yarn. A polyethylene terephthalate semi-dull 56 dtex/48 filament (titanium dioxide content: 1.6% by mass, round cross section) is fed as a sheath yarn 5.2% more than the core yarn feed rate, and air entanglement is performed using a turbulent flow nozzle. The Taslan-treated yarn was wound up as a composite textured yarn.
• PET polyethylene terephthalate
• PBT polybutylene terephthalate
• the resulting composite textured yarn (composite textured yarn 1) had a 122dtex-96 filament, a yarn length difference of 4.8%, and a maximum heat shrinkage stress of 22.7cN.
• the resulting composite textured yarn was not twisted and was used for the warp and weft to create a plain weave fabric at AJL with a warp density of 83/2.54 cm and a weft density of 62/2.54 cm.
• the obtained gray fabric was dyed and finished in the order of refining, heat setting, disperse dyeing, drying, and finishing setting.
• the fabric thus obtained has a warp density of 110/2.54 cm and a weft density of 86/2.54 cm. It was a combination of Table 1 shows the results.
• Example 2 The composite textured yarn 1 obtained in Example 1 was used as the warp, and side-by-side type raw yarn made of polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate (titanium dioxide content: PET 1.4% by mass, PBT 1.5% by mass) was used as the weft.
• the processing was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1, except that a 112T-72 filament false twisted yarn (false twisted yarn 1) was used. Table 1 shows the results.
• Example 3 112T-72 filament false-twisted textured yarn 1 obtained by false-twisting a side-by-side type yarn (titanium dioxide content: PET 1.4% by mass, PBT 1.5% by mass) made of polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate as a warp.
• the processing was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the composite textured yarn 1 obtained in Example 1 was used as the weft yarn. Table 1 shows the results.
• Example 4 Side-by-side type raw yarn made of polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate (titanium dioxide content: PET 1.4% by mass, PBT 1.5% by mass) 87 dtex/48 filament is hot drawn in the direction of the fiber axis to create a thick thread, and then drawn. Yarn A was obtained. Then, the cationic dyeable polyester 310 dtex-48 filament (titanium dioxide content: 1.5% by mass, round cross section) was hot drawn in the fiber axis direction so as to form a thick thread to obtain a drawn yarn B.
• titanium dioxide content PET 1.4% by mass, PBT 1.5% by mass
• the two drawn yarns were false twisted by a conventional method, and the drawn yarn A became 66T-48 filaments and the drawn yarn B became 164T-48 filaments.
• the drawn yarns A and B were subjected to air entanglement processing, and the doubling false twisted yarn was wound as a composite textured yarn.
• the resulting composite textured yarn (composite textured yarn 2) had a 230dtex-96 filament, a yarn length difference of 0.8%, and a maximum thermal shrinkage stress of 25.9cN.
• the obtained composite textured yarn was twisted at 600 T/m and used as warp, and the obtained composite textured yarn was used as weft without twisting, with a warp density of 57 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 38.
• a plain weave was made at AJL with a design of /2.54 cm.
• the obtained gray fabric was subjected to refining, heat setting, cationic dyeing, disperse dyeing, drying, and finish setting in the order of ordinary methods.
• the fabric thus obtained has a warp density of 71/2.54 cm and a weft density of 50/2.54 cm. material, and the L value was 18.5.
• the resulting woven fabric has sufficient stretch in the warp and weft directions, is lightweight, and has both the natural heathered feel of heathered natural fibers and a unique texture due to the difference in dyeing of the thick details in the fiber axis direction. Met. Table 1 shows the results.
• Composite textured yarn 3 was obtained by using cationic dyeable polyester used for composite textured yarn 2 described in Example 4 and having an eight-leaf cross section.
• Composite textured yarn 3 thus obtained had 230 dtex-96 filaments, yarn length difference of 0.7%, and maximum thermal shrinkage stress of 22.1 cN.
• the resulting composite textured yarn was twisted at 600 T/m and used as the warp yarn, and the obtained composite textured yarn was used as the weft yarn without being twisted, and was treated in the same manner as in Example 4.
• the fabric thus obtained has a warp density of 70/2.54 cm and a weft density of 51/2.54 cm. and the L value was 17.6.
• the resulting woven fabric has sufficient stretchability in the warp and weft directions, is lightweight, and has a natural heathered feel of a heathered natural fiber due to the difference in dyeing of the thick details in the fiber axis direction.
• the 8-leaf cross section diffusely reflects the light reflected on the surface of the fiber, suppresses the glossy feeling peculiar to the synthetic fiber, and gives a more natural fiber-like feel than the fabric of Example 4.
• Polyethylene terephthalate semi-dull drawn yarn 56 dtex/24 filaments (titanium dioxide content: 1.5% by mass, round cross section) is used as a core yarn, and a polyethylene terephthalate semidull 90 dtex/72 filament (titanium dioxide content: 1.5% by mass, round cross section) is used as a sheath yarn, and after hot drawing, the core yarn is fed.
• the air entangled Taslan yarn was wound up using a turbulence nozzle, fed 4.3% more than the rate.
• the obtained Taslan processed yarn had a 122 dtex-96 filament, a yarn length difference of 3.8%, and a maximum thermal shrinkage stress of 3.2 cN.
• the obtained taslan textured yarn is used as warp yarn without twisting, and as weft yarn, false twisted 112T-72 filament yarn (temporary Twisted yarn 1) was used.
• a plain weave fabric was produced at AJL with a design of warp density of 98/2.54 cm and weft density of 60/2.54 cm.
• the obtained gray fabric was dyed and finished in the order of refining, heat setting, disperse dyeing, drying, and finishing setting.
• the woven fabric thus obtained had a warp density of 122/2.54 cm and a weft density of 63/2.54 cm. Although it was lightweight, it lacked stretchability in the warp direction and was inferior in wearing comfort. Table 1 shows the results.
• the resulting fabric had a warp density of 107 threads/2.54 cm and a weft density of 94 threads/2.54 cm. Although it had high stretchability, it had glare due to the luster peculiar to synthetic fibers, and was inferior to that of natural fibers. Met. Table 1 shows the results.
• the resulting composite textured yarn (composite textured yarn 4) had 342 dtex-216 filaments, a yarn length difference of 3.4%, and a maximum thermal shrinkage stress of 42.4 cN.
• Tianium dioxide content 1.4% by mass of PET, 1.5% by mass of PBT
• Composite textured yarn 3 and weft false-twisted textured yarn 2 were used for the warp, weaving was performed at a warp density of 50/2.54 cm and a weft density of 37/2.54 cm, and the same finishing process as in Example 1 was performed.
• the resulting woven fabric had a warp density of 66/2.54 cm and a weft density of 51/2.54 cm. Although it had sufficient stretchability, the fabric was heavy and lacked lightness, and was inferior in wearing comfort. . Table 1 shows the results.
• Example 4 Using the composite textured yarn obtained in Example 1 as warp and weft, weaving as a warp double fabric structure with a warp density of 158 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 60 / 2.54 cm. Finishing was performed in the same manner.
• the resulting fabric had a warp density of 207 threads/2.54 cm and a weft density of 80 threads/2.54 cm. Although it had high stretchability, it lacked lightness and was inferior in wearing comfort. Table 1 shows the results.
• Example 5 112T-72 filament false-twisted textured yarn 1 obtained by false-twisting a side-by-side type yarn (titanium dioxide content: PET 1.4% by mass, PTT 1.3% by mass) made of polyethylene terephthalate and polytrimethylene terephthalate as warp yarns. and treated in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the composite textured yarn 1 obtained in Example 1 was used as the weft. Table 1 shows the results.
• Polytrimethylene terephthalate can obtain stretchability, but since it is a highly stretchable and low-density fabric, it shrinks too much, causing deterioration in appearance quality due to wrinkling (visual evaluation) and washing shrinkage (JIS L1930: 2014). Washed 3 times according to the C4M method Shrinkage after tumble drying (evaluated according to JIS L1096: 2010 H-2 method), press shrinkage (evaluated according to JIS L1096: 2010 H-2 method) is strong, wrinkling , was inferior to the other examples in terms of wash resistance.

Landscapes

• Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
• Textile Engineering (AREA)
• Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
• Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
• Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
• General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
• Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
• Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Priority Applications (4)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Publications (1)

Family

ID=87073677

Family Applications (1)

Country Status (5)

Citations (4)

Family Cites Families (7)

• 2022
  • 2022-12-21 WO PCT/JP2022/047118 patent/WO2023132242A1/ja not_active Ceased
  • 2022-12-21 KR KR1020247020555A patent/KR20240128681A/ko active Pending
  • 2022-12-21 US US18/725,460 patent/US20250066959A1/en active Pending
  • 2022-12-21 CN CN202280080275.3A patent/CN118434925A/zh active Pending
  • 2022-12-21 JP JP2022580401A patent/JPWO2023132242A1/ja active Pending

Patent Citations (4)

Also Published As

Similar Documents

Legal Events