Classifications

• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D03—WEAVING
  • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
  • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
  • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
  • D03D15/292—Conjugate, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, fibres or filaments
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
  • D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
  • D01F8/00—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof
  • D01F8/04—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers
  • D01F8/14—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers with at least one polyester as constituent
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
  • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
  • D02G1/00—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
  • D02G1/18—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by combining fibres, filaments, or yarns, having different shrinkage characteristics
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
  • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
  • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
  • D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
  • D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
  • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
  • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
  • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
  • D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D03—WEAVING
  • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
  • D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D03—WEAVING
  • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
  • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
  • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
  • D03D15/283—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D03—WEAVING
  • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
  • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
  • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
  • D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D03—WEAVING
  • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
  • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
  • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
  • D03D15/49—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads textured; curled; crimped
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D03—WEAVING
  • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
  • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
  • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
  • D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D03—WEAVING
  • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
  • D03D7/00—Woven fabrics designed to be resilient, i.e. to recover from compressive stress
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
  • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
  • D10B2331/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
  • D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
  • D10B2401/061—Load-responsive characteristics elastic
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
  • D10B2401/14—Dyeability
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2509/00—Medical; Hygiene

Definitions

• This disclosure relates to a stretchable woven fabric and a fiber product.
• stretchable woven fabrics are often used for shirts/jackets or bottoms for everyday wear or sports.
• a woven fabric using elastic fibers such as polyurethane has been used, and to achieve both weight reduction and stretching, a stretchable woven fabric utilizing the crimping of bicomponent fibers such as side-by-side shape original yarn has been used.
• This disclosure is intended to solve the problems that cannot be achieved by these prior arts, and it could therefore be helpful to provide a novel stretchable woven fabric that has both wearing comfort, due to lightweight and multidirectional stretchability, and a natural fiber tone.
• a stretchable woven fabric including: stretchable fibers in which different two-component polymers are formed into a side-by-side shape or an eccentric core-sheath shape, in both a warp and a weft; and composite textured yarn obtained by combining the stretchable fibers and a multifilament fiber dissimilar to the stretchable fibers, in either one or both of the warp and the weft, in which the different two-component polymers are a combination selected from a combination of dissimilar polymers having different structures and a combination of polymers having different intrinsic viscosities, the polymers are a polyester-based polymer selected from polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate, and the stretchable woven fabric has a basis weight of 100 g/m 2 to 200 g/m 2 .
• This disclosure relates to a stretch woven fabric that includes stretchable fibers in both a warp and a weft and composite textured yarn obtained by combining the stretchable fibers and a multifilament different from the stretchable fibers in either one or both of the warp and the weft, and has a basis weight of 100 to 200 g/m 2 .
• Examples of the different two-component polymers used for the stretchable fiber include a combination of polymers that can cause a difference in shrinkage by a heat treatment during processing, a combination of dissimilar polymers having different structures, and a combination of polymers having different intrinsic viscosities, and the different two-component polymers are selected from these combinations.
• a polyester-based polymer is preferable. Specific examples thereof include polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate, and the polyester-based polymer is selected therefrom.
• polymers having different intrinsic viscosities include a combination of polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate and a combination of polyethylene terephthalate having different intrinsic viscosities. It is preferable to combine polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate from the viewpoint of crimp development due to a difference in shrinkage.
• the delustering agent is more preferably included in both of the two-component polymers, but even when included in only one polymer, an effect can be obtained.
• fine particles such as silica as a slipping agent and other materials such as a coloring pigment can be added to the stretchable fiber as necessary, as long as the desired effect is not impaired.
• Examples of an arrangement of the two-component polymers include an eccentric core-sheath structure and the like in addition to a side-by-side shape in which two components are bonded in parallel, and a structure exhibiting crimps due to a difference in elastic recovery rates and thermal shrinkage characteristics thereof is preferable.
• a mass ratio of the stretchable fibers constituting the composite textured yarn is preferably 20 to 70 mass %. More preferably, the mass ratio is 30 to 50 mass %. Within this range, both stretchability and a natural fiber tone can be achieved.
• the multifilament composed of a single component may be one kind of component or a mixture composed of two or more kinds of components as a material, but the components constituting the entire fiber refer to multifilaments composed of the same material.
• the multifilament fiber include polyester-based multifilaments and polyamide-based multifilaments.
• Polyethylene terephthalate and a polyethylene terephthalate copolymer are preferable as the polyester constituting the polyester-based multifilament, and cationic dyeable polyethylene terephthalate is preferable as the polyethylene terephthalate copolymer.
• a multifilament fiber composed of polymers having the same or a common basic skeleton as at least one of polymers constituting the stretchable fibers. Therefore, since the stretchable fibers are composed of a polyester-based polymer, the polyester-based multifilaments are preferable. Also, when polyethylene terephthalate is contained as a polymer constituting the stretchable fibers, it is preferable to use polyethylene terephthalate-based multifilaments or polyethylene terephthalate-copolymer-based multifilaments having similar dyeability.
• a polymer having a difference in dyeing for the multifilaments it is also possible to express a more excellent melange tone of a natural fiber.
• a difference in dyeing is generated by using a polyamide-based multifilament or the like, and it is also possible to express a melange tone of a natural fiber.
• a cross-sectional shape perpendicular to a fiber axis of the multifilament fiber (hereinafter, referred to as a cross-sectional shape) is not particularly selected, and a flat cross section, a polygonal cross section having a triangular or star shape, a multilobal cross section, or a modified cross section such as a cross section obtained by combining these cross sections can be used in addition to a round cross section.
• the modified cross section is preferable in that a glare characteristic of synthetic fibers can be suppressed.
• Those having a cross-sectional shape selected from a round cross section and a flat multilobal cross section are particularly preferable, and these are used depending on applications.
• multifilament fibers having thick and thin spots in a fiber axis direction
• a difference is imparted to a fiber crystal structure in the fiber axis direction, and it is possible to obtain a woven fabric having a melange tone of a natural fiber, particularly a melange tone like a wool material due to a difference in dyeability caused by the difference in the fiber crystal structure.
• the multifilament fiber may be textured yarn subjected to mechanical stretch processing such as false twisting.
• a multilobal cross section is particularly preferably a multilobal cross section having 6 to 8 lobes.
• the multilobal cross section is preferably a flat multilobal cross section. Therefore, it is preferable in that glare can be easily suppressed and an excellent natural fiber tone can be expressed even when a dark color woven fabric having an L value of 25 or less in which a glare characteristic of synthetic fibers is easily noticeable is formed.
• a multilobal cross section of 6 to 8 lobes (which may be a flat multilobal cross section) and further imparting thick and thin spots in the fiber axis direction, the effect is further enhanced, and a stretchable woven fabric having a dark color in which glare is further suppressed and having a melange natural fiber tone like a wool material can be obtained.
• the composite textured yarn can be twisted yarn, and therefore the nuance of the natural fiber tone can be controlled.
• the maximum thermal shrinkage stress of the composite textured yarn is preferably 15 cN or more, and more preferably 20 cN or more.
• a fabric shrinks without being affected by a tension during a processing step at the time of dyeing processing, and suitable stretchability can be obtained.
• examples of a material constituting the crimped yarn include disperse dye-dyeable polyesters such as polyethylene terephthalate, and cation dye-dyeable polyesters such as cation dyeable polyethylene terephthalate copolymers.
• the total fineness of the combined fibers is preferably 100 to 300 dtex, and more preferably 100 to 250 dtex.
• Polyethylene terephthalate false twisted yarn is particularly preferable from the viewpoint of stretchability.
• a cation dye-dyeable polyester false twisted yarn to obtain a melange tone is more preferable from the viewpoint that a texture giving a natural fiber tone can be obtained by a difference in dyeing.
• a use ratio is preferably 80 mass % or less, and more preferably 50 mass % or less each independently in the warp or the weft from the viewpoint of obtaining stretchability and a texture giving a natural fiber tone.
• each independently means that it may be contained only in the warp, only in the weft, or in both thereof, and the contents thereof may be different.
• a proportion of the stretchable fiber in the warp or the weft is preferably 20 mass % or more, more preferably 50 mass % or more, and most preferably 100 mass % from the viewpoint of stretchability.
• drawn yarn can be obtained in a manner that after different components are separately melted, the melted components are discharged into a side-by-side shape or an eccentric core-sheath shape, and then discharged products are cooled, drawn, and wound up.
• a polyester-based multifilament such as polyethylene terephthalate
• a polyester undrawn yarn can be obtained by spinning a polyester by an ordinary method.
• Drawn yarn can be obtained by drawing the undrawn yarn, and a drawing ratio and temperature conditions may be appropriately adjusted depending on making the fiber cross section uniform in an axis direction or making the fiber have thick and thin spots.
• other multifilament fibers may be produced by appropriately arranging the yarn according to a raw material.
• polyethylene terephthalate is spun by an ordinary method to obtain polyester undrawn yarn.
• Drawn yarn can be obtained by drawing the undrawn yarn, and a drawing ratio and temperature conditions may be appropriately adjusted depending on making the fiber cross section uniform in an axis direction or making the fiber have thick and thin spots.
• composite processing is performed using both the obtained fibers to obtain composite textured yarn.
• the composite textured yarn in forming composite textured yarn having a sheath yarn loop by Taslan processing as composite textured yarn that obtains a fluff feeling like a cotton material, the composite textured yarn can be produced as follows. That is, a method in which when the stretchable fiber is A yarn and the multifilament fiber dissimilar to the stretchable fiber is B yarn, the B yarn is excessively fed with respect to the A yarn, and the A yarn and the B yarn are entangled with each other by a filament-combining nozzle to obtain dissimilar mixed fiber textured yarn is used.
• the filament-combining nozzle can be selected from a rectifying nozzle, a turbulent flow nozzle, and the like, and it is preferable to use a turbulent flow nozzle by which loops are easy formed.
• the woven fabric structure is not particularly specified, and twill or satin having few constraint points of a structure is preferable as long as stretchability is prioritized.
• the stretchability of the fabric by the stretchable fibers and the composite textured yarn is exhibited.
• a post-processing step since the processing tension is applied in the direction of the woven fabric warp, it is preferable to adopt a method such as fabric storing with fabric shaking off between steps, net drying, or fabric heat setting and overfeeding, to suppress a tension in processing.
• the processed fabric basis weight is 100 to 200 g/m 2 , and preferably 100 to 170 g/m 2 .
• the total fineness and a weave density of weaving yarn used for the warps and wefts may be appropriately adjusted, and may be further adjusted according to a weave structure.
• the total fineness and the weave density of the weaving yarn can be adjusted to have the above-described basis weight from the range of 1650 to 2800 as the cover factor represented by the formula described later.
• a cover factor after processing the fabric is preferably 1800 to 2200.
• the cover factor is preferably 2000 or more because the cover factor is relatively increased to obtain a woven fabric of resilient fabric equivalent to the plain structure.
• the stretch woven fabric thus obtained is excellent in multidirectional stretchability, and in a preferred example, it is possible to achieve an elongation rate of 12% or higher in both directions of the warp and the weft, and in a more preferred embodiment, it is also possible to achieve an elongation rate of 15% or higher in both directions of the warp and the weft.
• the stretch woven fabric thus obtained has both of wearing comfort due to lightweight and multidirectional stretchability, and a natural fiber tone.
• the stretch woven fabric can be suitably used for various applications such as clothing and sleeping bags since it has both of wearing comfort due to lightweight and multidirectional stretchability and a natural fiber tone.
• the fabric mass g per m 2 was determined in accordance with JIS L 1096:2020 A method.
• thermal shrinkage stress measuring apparatus TYPE KE-2S Using a thermal shrinkage stress measuring apparatus TYPE KE-2S, an initial load of 1/11.1 g/dtex is applied to a sample conditioned for 24 hours under an environment of 20° C. ⁇ 65% RH, and measurement is performed according to a predetermined operation procedure. The same measurement was performed five times to determine an average maximum thermal shrinkage stress.
• the fineness was determined in accordance with JIS L 1013:2010 8.3.1 A method.
• the fineness is determined in accordance with JIS L 1013:2010 8.3.1 B method (simple method).
• a thread to be measured is extracted from composite textured yarn or a woven fabric, and measured.
• a sample length is insufficient, a total length of the plurality of samples is set to a predetermined length.
• the sample is small and insufficient, it is set to measure the maximum possible length.
• the initial load is the same as defined in the A method.
• the fineness was determined by each method and divided by the number of filaments constituting the thread.
• the cover factor was determined by the following formula.
• a load of 0.08826 cN/dtex is applied to the combined filament yarn, and the combined filament yarn is fixed to a twisting machine at a length of 10 cm. In this instance, when the yarn is twisted, the twisting machine is turned to untwist the yarn.
• the load is removed, and the stretchable fibers and the multifilament fibers are carefully separated while the yarn is fixed to the twisting machine.
• an auxiliary tool such as a needle or tweezers is used, the separation is readily performed, and therefore, the auxiliary tool is used as much as possible.
• the shorter fiber (referred to as fiber A) is in a state of being tensioned
• the other fiber (referred to as fiber B) is longer in yarn length than the fiber A, and thus is in a state of being slackened without being tensioned.
• the yarn length in this state is measured. This value is defined as YL(A).
• the fiber A is cut with scissors. This time, a tension is applied to the fiber B component and the fiber B component is in a stated of being stretched. The yarn length in this state is measured. This value is defined as YL(B).
• the difference in yarn length is calculated according to the following formula.
• test sample yarn a total of five test sample yarn are randomly collected from one sample yarn, and a total of five measurements are performed. The five measured values are averaged (rounded off to the first decimal place) to obtain a difference in yarn length.
• the obtained Taslan textured yarn had 122 dtex-96 filaments, a difference in yarn length of 3.8%, and a maximum thermal shrinkage stress of 3.2 cN.
• Two piece of side-by-side shape original yarn (titanium dioxide content: PET 1.4 mass % and PBT 1.5 mass %) 130 dtex/72 filaments composed of polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate were aligned as two piece of core yarn, and the core yarn were drawn and heat-treated at a heater temperature of 168° C. to obtain a composite textured yarn 164 dtex-144.
• Polyethylene terephthalate semi-dull 150 dtex/72 filaments (titanium dioxide content: 1.5 mass %, round cross section) were fed at a rate of 5.2% higher than the core yarn feed rate as sheath yarn, and air entangled using a turbulence processing nozzle to be wound.
• side-by-side shape original yarn (titanium dioxide content: PET 1.4 mass % and PBT 1.5 mass %) composed of polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate was false twisted by a conventional method to obtain a false twisted yarn having 336 dtex-144 filaments (false twisted yarn 2).
• the composite textured yarn 3 as a warp and the false twisted textured yarn 2 as a weft were used, and woven at a warp density of 50 yarn/2.54 cm and a weft density of 37 yarn/2.54 cm, and the same dyeing finish processing as in Example 1 was performed.
• Polytrimethylene terephthalate was capable of obtaining stretchability, but since it was a high stretch and Low density woven fabric, shrinkage was too strong, and deterioration in appearance quality due to embossing (visually evaluated), washing shrinkage (evaluated using a shrinkage ratio after 3 times washing, tumble drying according to JIS L 1930:2014 C4M method (in accordance with JIS L 1096:2010 H-2 method)) and press shrinkage (evaluated according to JIS L 1096:2010 H-2 method) were strong, and it was inferior to the other examples in terms of embossing and washing resistance.
• Example 1 Example 2
• Example 3 Example 4
• Warp (total — 122 dtex-96 122 dtex-96 112 dtex-72 230 dtex-96 230 dtex-96 fineness ⁇ number of filaments)
• Warp maximum shrinkage stress cN 22.7 22.7 15.1 25.9 22.1 Single yarn fineness of dtex 1.15 1.15 1.56 1.50 1.50 stretchable fiber of warp Proportion of stretchable (Mass basis) 52% 52% 100% 29% 29% fibers of warp Difference in yarn % 4.8% 4.8% — 0.8% 0.7% length of warp Weft (total — 122 dtex-96 112 dtex-72 122 dtex-96 230 dtex-96 230 dtex-96 fineness ⁇ number of filaments) Yarn type Composite False Composite Composite Composite Composite

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• Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
• General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
• Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
• Woven Fabrics (AREA)

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