WO2022049052A1 - Procédé et dispositif de fabrication d'un fil fantaisie à plusieurs composants - Google Patents

Procédé et dispositif de fabrication d'un fil fantaisie à plusieurs composants Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2022049052A1
WO2022049052A1 PCT/EP2021/073962 EP2021073962W WO2022049052A1 WO 2022049052 A1 WO2022049052 A1 WO 2022049052A1 EP 2021073962 W EP2021073962 W EP 2021073962W WO 2022049052 A1 WO2022049052 A1 WO 2022049052A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
yarn
component
effect
components
cycle
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2021/073962
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Samuel PARIS
Marc VALZER
Original Assignee
SSM Schärer Schweiter Mettler AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by SSM Schärer Schweiter Mettler AG filed Critical SSM Schärer Schweiter Mettler AG
Priority to EP21772740.3A priority Critical patent/EP4208594A1/fr
Publication of WO2022049052A1 publication Critical patent/WO2022049052A1/fr

Links

Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
    • D02G1/16—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics using jets or streams of turbulent gases, e.g. air, steam
    • D02G1/162—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics using jets or streams of turbulent gases, e.g. air, steam with provision for imparting irregular effects to the yarn
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/34—Yarns or threads having slubs, knops, spirals, loops, tufts, or other irregular or decorative effects, i.e. effect yarns
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02J—FINISHING OR DRESSING OF FILAMENTS, YARNS, THREADS, CORDS, ROPES OR THE LIKE
    • D02J1/00—Modifying the structure or properties resulting from a particular structure; Modifying, retaining, or restoring the physical form or cross-sectional shape, e.g. by use of dies or squeeze rollers
    • D02J1/08—Interlacing constituent filaments without breakage thereof, e.g. by use of turbulent air streams
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/18—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
    • D04B1/20—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads crimped threads

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a method and a device for producing an effect multi-component yarn with different short or long effects from at least two components that differ in volume, color, elongation variation and/or entanglement quality, each with a component feed and a common air entanglement nozzle with an air feed.
  • effect yarns are used for the production of structured fabrics or knitted fabrics.
  • Fancy yarns alternately have thick and thin or voluminous or less voluminous areas.
  • Known from the prior art is, for example, the production of thick-thin yarns using the false twist texturing principle, in which a bundle of threads is twisted up to a predetermined extent, the twists are fixed and the bundle of threads provided with such fixed twists to the same extent , but is turned back in the opposite direction.
  • CH 569 102 A5 discloses a device for producing an effect yarn with alternating voluminous and less voluminous areas using a false twist texturing machine known per se, with a heating device forming the false twist texturing zone and a false twist generator connected at a distance downstream of this.
  • JP 2005232610 A discloses a method for producing an effect yarn from multifilaments of different colors by means of an individually adjustable feed speed for the individual multifilaments.
  • Air entanglement consists of a yarn pass in combination with one or more pairs of opposed air ducts arranged to provide flows of high velocity air perpendicular to the axis of the yarn pass guide.
  • the thread passage may be rectangular or circular in cross-section, or it may be an open trough or slot with an axis parallel to the threadline, or it may be of any suitable cross-section conforming to these configurations.
  • the thread passage cross section does not have to have the same shape everywhere.
  • Each opposed pair of conduits has a common longitudinal axis, and when there are multiple opposed pairs of fluid conduits, they may be spaced along the filamentary passage in the same plane or at different angles relative to each other.
  • Patent US4103481 describes a variable diameter yarn created during the false twist texturing process by alternating twisted and untwisted zones with a twist locking device. This method is based on uncontrolled disturbances that result in a random effect.
  • a disadvantage of the known methods and devices is that there is no possibility of controlled effects over a specific thread length. Either a yarn with effects distributed over the yarn length due to uncontrollable random effects or a yarn with uncontrollable constant effects over the yarn length is achieved. The effects are each specified for the end product in the disclosed devices.
  • the object of the present invention is therefore to provide a device which enables the production of fancy yarns from at least two components, the two components each having defined variations that affect the final appearance of the yarn along its entire length. These variations can significantly affect color variation, bulk, luster and elongation properties of the resulting yarn.
  • Proposed is a device for producing an effect multi-component yarn with different short or long effects from at least two components that differ in terms of volume, color, elongation variation and/or intermingling quality, each with a component feed and a common air mixing nozzle with an air feed, characterized in that the Device includes a controlled variation of a feed rate of the individual components.
  • the effect is based on the speed of the intermingling process and does not change the structure of the individually supplied components or yarns.
  • different effects can be created by different deniers, different colors, different materials, different structures and textures of the yarns, etc.
  • the device makes it possible to produce a multi-component yarn in which the effect results from the various yarns combined for production and their properties.
  • the individual components or yarns are each fed to the air mixing nozzle via a component feed, with the speed of the component feed of each individual component being controllable. As a result, the speed at which a component enters the air mixing nozzle can be adjusted or regulated individually for each component.
  • the feeding speed of each individual component can be adjusted, with the setting defining a range comprising an upper and a lower value and a time cycle being set for a variation between the defined values or for a random variation of the values within the set range.
  • Typical feed speeds are 100 m/min to 1000 m/min for the Use of air mixing nozzles known today.
  • the actual feed speed depends on the type of yarn fed, resp. the component. For example, a slub yarn is introduced into air mixing nozzles at a feed rate of 100 m/min to 1200 m/min or an elastic filament yarn at a feed rate of 20 m/min to 1000 m/min.
  • a range is preferably defined which corresponds to an over-delivery of -5% to +25% of the normal feed speed of the component fed into the air mixing nozzle.
  • an over-delivery of -50% to +50% is provided.
  • Each individual component is fed into the air mixing nozzle via an independent device for feeding the respective component.
  • the device can, for example, be designed as a yarn conveyor, yarn brake or as a yarn deflection device.
  • a yarn conveyor for example, an arrangement of godets is conceivable, which convey the components from a supply coil to the air mixing nozzle.
  • a yarn brake can be implemented by more or less strong clamping of the component before it enters the air mixing nozzle.
  • Devices such as those known from CH 569 102 A5, for example, can be used for a thread deflection device.
  • a range is defined for each of the components for setting the feed rate, in the sense that a maximum and a minimum feed rate is set, between which the device varies during operation.
  • a time cycle is also defined, i.e. a time is determined during which the feed speed range is traversed.
  • running through the feed speed range starts anew.
  • the set cycle time then causes a change to the next random value of the feed speed after the cycle time has expired. Also a mix or consecutive ordering of the various setting options is conceivable.
  • the air supply has a closing element, with the air supply being switched on and off for predefined times cyclically or randomly within a specific time window according to a repeating cycle.
  • the air supply to the air mixing nozzle is controlled according to a preset setting. Times are defined for keeping the air mixing nozzle open and for keeping the air mixing nozzle closed.
  • a time window can be provided within which the air supply is randomly switched on and off again. A repeating time cycle is provided for both variants. After a certain time has elapsed, the air supply is switched to a zero position and the process begins again. The zero position can be the open or the closed position of the closure member of the air supply.
  • the predefined times are typically 3 milliseconds to 5000 milliseconds, and in the case of randomized changes, variations in the time window in a range from +0% to +1000% are advantageous in order to achieve a visible effect in the yarn.
  • the time window varies from 3 milliseconds to 6 milliseconds.
  • the closing element such as a pneumatic valve, a slide or a ball valve, which have short closing times.
  • the cycle is defined by a pattern of individual steps that are repeated in certain periods, with each step being individually adjustable.
  • the periodicity results in a recognizable pattern in a woven or knitted product when the yarn produced with the device is later used.
  • the possibility of setting the individual steps results in the possibility of a large number of patterns.
  • the air mixing nozzle comprises an intermingling or swirling nozzle to fix the effect of the yarn.
  • Such nozzles for processing Multi-component yarns or filament yarns are known from the prior art and are commercially available.
  • the effect of using mixing air mixing nozzles is that the various components inside the nozzle are twisted into one another, i.e. "mixed".
  • a swirling air mixing nozzle is used to connect the individual components to one another by briefly swirling them at certain intervals.
  • the feeding speed and/or the air supply can be adjusted cyclically or according to a time pattern. A change in the feed speed and/or the air supply can advantageously be adjusted over time. As a result, the speed of the change itself can also be used to create an effect.
  • the yarn comprises at least two components, one of the components being a multifilament yarn with a titre of 11 dtex to 1100 dtex.
  • the execution of the first component as a multifilament yarn with a titre in a certain range is important for the function of the air mixing process to achieve the necessary strength of the combination of the different components.
  • the multifilament yarn is DTY (Draw Texturing Yarn) or FDY (Fully Drawn Yarn) or POY (Partially Oriented Yarn) made of PA (polyamide) or PES (polyester) or PP (polypropylene) or PES copolymer with a titre of 11 to 1100 dtex.
  • the at least second component differs in one of its properties from the first component, for example color, elasticity, material, titre, etc.
  • the type of yarn can also be different, for example DTY or FDY or POY or staple yarn.
  • an elastic core fiber preferably elastane with a linear density of 11 to 560 dtex or
  • a metallically coated polyester core e.g. LUREX
  • titre 20 to 330 dtex
  • a staple yarn for example made of cotton or polyester with a fineness of Ne120 to Ne5 or a titre of 50 to 1100 dtex or
  • the first component is a drawn textured yarn (DTY) or fully drawn yarn (FDY).
  • DTY drawn textured yarn
  • FDY fully drawn yarn
  • the advantageous properties of textured yarn are high elasticity and volume.
  • the advantageous property of fully drawn yarn is high strength.
  • the result in the mixture in the finished product is a yarn of gray color, with more black or more white depending on the procedure or the setting of the feed speeds.
  • Elastane and its elasticity can be used in the same way, for example, to add more or less stretch to the finished product.
  • the use of a metallically coated polyester core as the second component creates a glossy effect in the finished product.
  • a mixture of components from different materials can lead to different effects, for example a mixture of cationic PES with a normal PES or with cotton leads to the different materials also reacting differently to the colors in a dyeing process. This means that the effect of the process only emerges later in the coloring process, where the different components are colored differently.
  • an effect multi-component yarn can also be produced from more than two components.
  • a tricolor yarn can be made from three components of different colors.
  • the color mixture in the end product can be changed cyclically or influenced randomly.
  • a woven fabric with a warp and weft yarn or a knitted fabric is also proposed, with at least one of the yarns being an effect multi-component yarn.
  • a textile product from the field of sportswear or fashion clothing or home textiles having a fabric with a woven fabric or a knitted fabric as described above.
  • FIG. 1 shows a schematic representation of a first embodiment of a device according to the invention
  • FIG. 2 shows a schematic representation of a second embodiment of a device according to the invention
  • FIG. 3a shows a schematic representation of a first multi-component effect yarn
  • FIG. 3b shows a schematic representation of a second multi-component effect yarn.
  • FIG. 1 shows a schematic representation of a first embodiment of a device according to the invention for producing an effect multi-component yarn 1.
  • a first component 2 is fed via a first component feed 5 and a second component 3 is fed via a second component feed 6 to a common air mixing nozzle 8 guided.
  • FIG. 1 shows as an example that the first component 2 is unwound from a first spool 11 .
  • the first could Component 2 can also be supplied from a buffer store of a different type or directly from a component manufacture.
  • the first component 2 runs through a first yarn brake 13.
  • the first yarn brake 13 serves to impose a tension on the first component 2 between the first component feed 5 and the first yarn brake 13.
  • the first component feed 5 is shown as a godet, the godet being set in rotation by a drive 15 .
  • the godet is looped around several times by the first component 2 before the first component 2 is fed further into the air mixing nozzle 8 .
  • the design of the second component feed 6 is identical to that of the first component feed 5 in the embodiment shown, the second component 3 being unwound from a second spool 12 .
  • the second component 3 could also be supplied from an intermediate store of a different type or directly from a component manufacture.
  • the second yarn brake 1 serves to apply tension to the second component 3 between the second component feed 6 and the second yarn brake 14.
  • the second component feed 6 is shown as a godet, the godet being set in rotation by a drive 16 .
  • the second component 3 wraps around the godet several times before the second component 3 is fed further into the air mixing nozzle 8 .
  • the air mixing nozzle 8 has an air supply 9 , a closure member 10 being provided in the air supply 9 .
  • the amount of air supplied can be controlled by the closure member 10 in that the closure member 10 is partially or completely closed.
  • the closing and opening times as well as the times during which the closure member 10 is closed or open can be changed.
  • the effect multi-component yarn 1 formed therein is guided via a delivery system 18 to an end spool 19.
  • the end coil 19 is driven in a specific direction of rotation 20 and thus the effect multi-component Yarn 1 wound onto the end spool 19.
  • the delivery mechanism 18 serves on the one hand to ensure a uniform take-off speed of the multi-component effect yarn 1 from the air mixing nozzle 8 and on the other hand to achieve uniform tension of the multi-component effect yarn 1 before winding.
  • FIG. 2 shows a schematic representation of a second embodiment of a device according to the invention.
  • the same components as in Figure 1 are provided with the same reference numbers.
  • three components 2, 3 and 4 are mixed into an effect multi-component yarn 1 in the device according to FIG.
  • Such a mixture is known in principle in the field of tricolor yarns.
  • a first component 2 and a second component 3 and a third component 4 are guided through a predraft 21 .
  • the pre-draft 21 serves to equalize the stretching and to ensure that the components 2, 3 and 4 reach the respective component feed 5, 6 and 7 with a predetermined thread tension.
  • the first component feed 5, the second component feed 6 and the third component feed 7 are designed as godets with an additional deflection roller.
  • the components 2, 3, and 4 loop around the godet and the deflection roller several times before they are carried on to the common air mixing nozzle 8.
  • the air mixing nozzle 8 has an air supply 9, with a closure member 10 being provided in the air supply 9, identical to FIG. 1.
  • the three components 2, 3 and 4 have different colors.
  • the three components 2, 3 and 4 are mixed in a wide variety of ways due to the various setting options for the air mixing nozzle 8 and the individual component feeds 5, 6 and 7.
  • the multi-component effect yarn 1 formed in the air-mixing nozzle 8 is passed on via a delivery system 18 to an end spool 19 rotating in the direction of rotation 20 .
  • the multi-component effect yarn 1 is wound onto the end spool 19 .
  • FIG. 3a A corresponding effect multi-component yarn 1 is shown in FIG. 3a, and the three individual colors of the three components 2, 3 and 4 can be seen in a clearly defined repetition.
  • the running direction 23 of the effect multi-component yarn 1 is indicated by the arrow in FIGS. 3a and 3b.
  • the three components 2, 3 and 4 can be mixed by a corresponding adjustment of the air mixing nozzle 8 or the air supply 9 and the closing element 10 in such a way that the colors are mixed and there is a blurred transition in the multi-component effect yarn 1 from one color to the next, as shown in Figure 3b.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • Fluid Mechanics (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne un dispositif et un procédé de fabrication d'un fil fantaisie à plusieurs composants (1) ainsi qu'un fil fantaisie à plusieurs composants (1) ayant différents effets courts ou longs en termes de volume, de couleur, de variation d'étirement et/ou de qualité d'ondulation, ledit fil fantaisie étant composé d'au moins deux différents composants (2, 3, 4). Les composants (2, 3 4) comportent chacun une alimentation en composant (5, 6, 7) menant jusqu'à une buse de mélange d'air (8) commune ayant une alimentation en air (9). Le dispositif comprend une variation contrôlée d'une vitesse d'alimentation des composants (2, 3, 4) individuels. La vitesse d'alimentation de chacun des composants (2, 3, 4) individuels peut être réglée, le réglage définissant une plage qui comprend une valeur supérieure et une valeur inférieure, et un cycle temporel est défini pour une variation entre les valeurs définies ou pour une variation aléatoire des valeurs à l'intérieur de la plage réglée, le cycle temporel étant défini par un modèle d'étapes individuelles se répétant à des périodes déterminées, chaque étape pouvant être ajustée individuellement, ou l'alimentation en air (9) présentant un organe de fermeture (10), une activation et une désactivation de l'alimentation en air (9) pour des durées prédéfinies étant prévues de manière cyclique ou à l'intérieur d'un intervalle de temps déterminé, de manière randomisée selon un cycle réitératif, le cycle étant défini par un modèle d'étapes individuelles se répétant à des périodes déterminées, chaque étape pouvant être ajustée individuellement.
PCT/EP2021/073962 2020-09-02 2021-08-31 Procédé et dispositif de fabrication d'un fil fantaisie à plusieurs composants WO2022049052A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP21772740.3A EP4208594A1 (fr) 2020-09-02 2021-08-31 Procédé et dispositif de fabrication d'un fil fantaisie à plusieurs composants

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CH01078/20A CH717804A1 (de) 2020-09-02 2020-09-02 Verfahren und Vorrichtung zur Herstellung eines Effekt-Multikomponenten-Gams.
CH01078/20 2020-09-02

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2022049052A1 true WO2022049052A1 (fr) 2022-03-10

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Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/EP2021/073962 WO2022049052A1 (fr) 2020-09-02 2021-08-31 Procédé et dispositif de fabrication d'un fil fantaisie à plusieurs composants

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EP (1) EP4208594A1 (fr)
CH (1) CH717804A1 (fr)
TW (1) TW202210673A (fr)
WO (1) WO2022049052A1 (fr)

Citations (10)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3364537A (en) 1965-09-07 1968-01-23 Du Pont Apparatus for interlacing multifilament yarn
CH569102A5 (fr) 1974-03-08 1975-11-14 Akzo Nv
US4103481A (en) 1974-03-08 1978-08-01 Akzona Incorporated Variable diameter yarn
US4299015A (en) 1979-07-23 1981-11-10 Frederick Marcus Process for space dyeing and texturing synthetic yarns
JPH02259134A (ja) * 1989-03-30 1990-10-19 Unitika Ltd 嵩高性意匠糸及びその製造方法
WO1994010362A1 (fr) * 1992-11-04 1994-05-11 J. & P. Coats, Limited Fabrication de fils de textiles
JP2000136454A (ja) * 1998-10-30 2000-05-16 Sanetsu Kk 加工糸及びその製造方法
US6454975B1 (en) * 1998-09-28 2002-09-24 O'mara Incorporated Process for making bulk yarns having improved elasticity and recovery
US6854167B2 (en) * 2002-12-09 2005-02-15 Milliken & Company Treatment of filament yarns to provide spun-like characteristics and yarns and fabrics produced thereby
JP2005232610A (ja) 2004-02-18 2005-09-02 Teijin Fibers Ltd 複合スラブ糸およびその製造方法および織編物

Family Cites Families (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0299131A1 (fr) * 1987-07-14 1989-01-18 Ernaelsteen, Jean-Charles Procédé de fabrication d'un fil présentant des flammes et dispositif pour la mise en oeuvre de ce procédé
US4993218A (en) * 1990-01-09 1991-02-19 Textured Yarn Company Inc. Textured yarns and fabrics made therefrom
JP2004263340A (ja) * 2003-03-04 2004-09-24 Mitsubishi Rayon Co Ltd 多色混繊糸の製造方法
ITUB20152307A1 (it) * 2015-07-20 2017-01-20 Ssm Giudici S R L Metodo e dispositivo per la produzione di un filo fiammato e filo cosi' ottenuto

Patent Citations (10)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3364537A (en) 1965-09-07 1968-01-23 Du Pont Apparatus for interlacing multifilament yarn
CH569102A5 (fr) 1974-03-08 1975-11-14 Akzo Nv
US4103481A (en) 1974-03-08 1978-08-01 Akzona Incorporated Variable diameter yarn
US4299015A (en) 1979-07-23 1981-11-10 Frederick Marcus Process for space dyeing and texturing synthetic yarns
JPH02259134A (ja) * 1989-03-30 1990-10-19 Unitika Ltd 嵩高性意匠糸及びその製造方法
WO1994010362A1 (fr) * 1992-11-04 1994-05-11 J. & P. Coats, Limited Fabrication de fils de textiles
US6454975B1 (en) * 1998-09-28 2002-09-24 O'mara Incorporated Process for making bulk yarns having improved elasticity and recovery
JP2000136454A (ja) * 1998-10-30 2000-05-16 Sanetsu Kk 加工糸及びその製造方法
US6854167B2 (en) * 2002-12-09 2005-02-15 Milliken & Company Treatment of filament yarns to provide spun-like characteristics and yarns and fabrics produced thereby
JP2005232610A (ja) 2004-02-18 2005-09-02 Teijin Fibers Ltd 複合スラブ糸およびその製造方法および織編物

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP4208594A1 (fr) 2023-07-12
TW202210673A (zh) 2022-03-16
CH717804A1 (de) 2022-03-15

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