WO2021022649A1 - 一种探头门襟领子的裁制与绱缝工艺方法 - Google Patents

一种探头门襟领子的裁制与绱缝工艺方法 Download PDF

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WO2021022649A1
WO2021022649A1 PCT/CN2019/108813 CN2019108813W WO2021022649A1 WO 2021022649 A1 WO2021022649 A1 WO 2021022649A1 CN 2019108813 W CN2019108813 W CN 2019108813W WO 2021022649 A1 WO2021022649 A1 WO 2021022649A1
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placket
collar
sewing
cutting
seam
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PCT/CN2019/108813
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English (en)
French (fr)
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宋卫丽
王显波
沈洁
万蕾
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山东舒朗服装服饰股份有限公司
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Publication of WO2021022649A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021022649A1/zh

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41B—SHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
    • A41B1/00—Shirts
    • A41B1/08—Details
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41B—SHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
    • A41B3/00—Collars
    • A41B3/005—Methods or devices for their manufacture

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  • the invention relates to a cutting and quilting process method of a collar, in particular to a cutting and quilting process method of a probe placket collar.
  • the invention provides a process method for cutting and sewing the collar of a probe placket, aiming to improve the style cutting technology and sewing technology. Compared with the previous treatment method of this style, it can effectively avoid the occurrence of leaks, tears, breakages, etc. after stretching or scrubbing, and the firmness is greatly increased.
  • the traditional sewing method is very effective for the operator. The operation proficiency and operation skills have high requirements, the operation is difficult, and it is not conducive to industrial production. During the industrial production process, the operator's placket process does not abut the collar, which may cause leaks and breakage, resulting in a low sewing rate.
  • the sewing machine of the present invention does not have high requirements on the operator, especially the new employees are also easy to grasp the essentials of sewing, easy to operate, and at the same time improve the industrial production efficiency, reduce the low sewing rate due to improper operation, and achieve both operation and technology. Improve and strengthen.
  • the present invention provides a process method for cutting and sewing the collar of the probe placket.
  • the quilting of the collar of the probe placket is under external force Under the action, it is not easy to be damaged and leaking, and the quilting process operation does not have high requirements on the operator, and it is easy to operate, which improves industrial production efficiency.
  • a cutting and sewing process method of a probe placket collar includes the following steps:
  • the sequential sewing process is: A. Check the structure sheet pattern and draw the inner, outer collar and placket sutures; B. Iron buckle ironing the placket; C. Butt-jointing garment placket; D. Sewing inner and outer collars; E. Ironing the collar and collar shape; F. Sewing the body collar;
  • the present invention can also be improved as follows:
  • the process of drawing the inner, outer collar, and placket stitches of the pattern of the paving and reviewing the structure sheet is: placing the net pattern of the structure sheet in the middle of the garment sheet, with 1.0cm seam allowance on the periphery, and using a pen that can erase Draw a circle of sutures around the paper pattern, and the garment part includes a placket and inner and outer collars.
  • the sewing process align the placket and the inside of the collar separately, the shape and size are the same, and the stitching is strictly according to the drawn line, which is convenient and accurate.
  • the process of ironing the placket with an iron is as follows: pressing the suture thread with an iron to buckle both sides of the inner opening of the placket inward respectively, and buckle and iron the upper and lower inner openings together.
  • the butt-joined garment piece placket includes two parts, the placket and the body, which are carried out in a combined procedure.
  • the procedure standard is set to 301 stitches and the number of stitches is 14-16 stitches. 3cm, first sewn 0.8cm stitches on the side of the body, so that the width of the seam allowance can be more accurately controlled, and there will be no leaks after the garment is finished, and then press the 0.1cm open stitch placket according to the open stitch width and press Enter to fix it.
  • the process is carried out according to the combined process, the process standard is set to 301 stitches, the number of needles is 14-16 stitches/3cm, when sewing the inner and outer collars, the inner collar is lowered first. After pressing the drawn line button, it will be stitched with the outer collar. When stitching, align the upper mouth of the inner and outer collars, sew along the drawn line, and the arc is round and fixed.
  • the iron is smoothed at the stitching joints of the collar, the neck seam is shaved into a trapezoid 0.4cm-0.6cm, and then turned and ironed smoothly.
  • the upper and lower layers are ironed together, and the lower mouth of the inner collar Hold the 1.0cm seam allowance again and smooth it, and finally check the collar shape to correct the shape according to the cardboard shape of the collar.
  • the beneficial effects of the present invention are as follows: (1) After the stitching line of the upper opening of the placket reaches the stop point of the collar, it is sewn vertically upwards to the seam margin of the upper opening of the placket. The placket cut is invisible, and the stitched side has no burrs, so that the stitched collar is not prone to tearing, exposed burrs and other problems. The placket collar is cut on the reverse side through process improvement to ensure that the product is subject to any external force There will be no damage; (2) The seam process operation does not have high requirements for the operator, is easy to operate, is very conducive to industrial production, greatly improves work efficiency, and reduces the repair rate of finished products.
  • Figure 1 is a schematic diagram of the structure of the probe placket collar garment
  • Figure 2 is a schematic diagram of the seam of the collar described in Example 1;
  • Figure 3 is a schematic diagram of the seam of the collar described in Example 2.
  • Figure 4 is a schematic diagram of the structure of the net pattern of the placket and collar
  • Figure 5 is a schematic diagram of the iron buckle ironing the placket structure
  • Figure 6 is a schematic diagram of the structure of the probe placket collar.
  • a cutting and sewing process method for the collar of a probe placket includes the following steps:
  • the fabric and lining cloth are of a single piece structure, and the inner and outer collars, placket and lining cloth are fixed firmly by a high-temperature shaping bonding machine;
  • the sequential sewing process is: A. Check the structure sheet pattern and draw the inner, outer collar and placket sutures; B. Iron buckle ironing the placket; C. Butt-jointing garment placket; D. Sewing inner and outer collars; E. Ironing the collar and collar shape; F. Sewing the body collar;
  • the stitching process of the inner, outer collar, and placket of the pattern of the structure sheet is: the net pattern 4-1 and the net pattern 4-3 of the structure sheet, and the net pattern without hair stitches is placed on the garment.
  • the middle of the piece there are 1.0cm seam allowances 4-2 and 4-4 on the periphery.
  • a circle of sutures is drawn around the paper pattern with an erasable pen.
  • the garment piece includes a placket and inner and outer collars.
  • the ironing process of pressing the placket is as follows: pressing the suture line with an iron to buckle the two sides of the placket inward, as shown in 5-1 in Figure 5.
  • the butt-joined garment placket includes two parts, the placket and the body, which are carried out in a combined process.
  • the process standard is set to 301 stitches, the number of stitches is 14-16 stitches/3cm, The car is fixed.
  • the inner and outer collar sewing process is carried out according to the combined process, the process standard is set to 301 stitches, the number of needles is 14-16 stitches/3cm, and the carriage return is fixed.
  • the collar stop point 1-1 adopts the method of cutting on the reverse side 2-1 to improve the new method of sewing the collar after cutting the front side 3-1. 2-2 There is no burr, so it can avoid burrs, tearing, breakage, etc. after stretching or scrubbing, and the firmness is greatly increased.
  • Fig. 3 it is an existing traditional sewing method of quilting collar, a method of cutting and sewing a probe placket collar.
  • the cutting and sewing process includes the following steps:
  • the fabric and lining cloth are of a single piece structure, and the inner and outer collars, placket and lining cloth are fixed firmly by a high-temperature shaping bonding machine;

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)

Abstract

一种探头门襟领子的裁制与绱缝工艺方法，包括以下步骤：根据领子与门襟的绘制图对领子、门襟、衣片进行裁制；将所需裁制的内领、外领、门襟、前片均按照纱向铺在布料和衬布上分别进行裁制；根据结构图对缝制止点的位置进行衣片绘制剪口标记；布料和衬布均为独片结构，将内、外领、门襟与衬布经过高温定型粘合机固定牢固；依据顺序性缝制工序依次缝绱门襟、内、外领。缝合门襟上口时缝合到绱领止点后再拐直角一直缝合到门襟缝份上口，门襟上口按照绱领止点的位置在反面用剪刀打斜口，翻到正面之后门襟上口缝份边是缝合线边。该工艺方法得到的衣服成品，探头门襟领子绱缝处在外力作用下不易出现破损、毛漏现象，而且更易操作。

Description

一种探头门襟领子的裁制与绱缝工艺方法 技术领域
本发明涉及一种领子的裁制与绱缝工艺方法，具体涉及一种探头门襟领子的裁制与绱缝工艺方法。
背景技术
随着时代的进步与人们对衣服舒适与美观的要求，女士衬衫已经不单纯是领、领座和直边门襟的常规款式了，近几年流行的v领衬衫越来越受广大消费者喜欢，此款款式简单大方，v领的设计能拉长脖颈，更等凸显女性魅力；但是这种领型以往的工艺缝制方法不太完善，衣服在水洗抻拉过程中领子处容易出现撕破现象。
本发明提供了一种探头门襟领子的裁制与绱缝工艺方法，旨在提高这种款式裁制技术和缝绱技术。与以往的这种款式的处理方法相比较，可有效避免因为抻拉或搓洗后出现毛漏、撕破、破损等情况，牢固性很大一步增加；另外，传统的缝绱方法对操作人员的操作娴熟度和操作技能有较高要求，操作困难，不利于工业生产，工业生产过程中会因操作人员门襟工艺没有紧靠领子而出现毛漏、破损造成缝制率低下，本发明缝绱工艺操作方法对操作人员没有高要求，尤其是新员工也很容易掌握缝绱要领，易操作，同时提高了工业生产效率，减少因为操作不当出现的缝制率低下，在操作和技术方面均得以改善和加强。
发明内容
本发明针对现有技术存在的不足，提供一种探头门襟领子的裁制与绱缝工艺方法，所述的裁制与绱缝工艺方法得到的服装成品，探头门襟领子绱缝处在外力作用下不易出现破损、毛漏现象，而且绱缝工艺操作对操作人员没有高要求，易操作，提高工业生产效率。
本发明解决上述技术问题的技术方案如下：一种探头门襟领子的裁制与绱缝工艺方法，所述的裁制和绱缝工艺包括以下步骤：
(1)根据领子与门襟的绘制图对领子、门襟、衣片进行裁制：将所需裁制的内领、外领、门襟、前片均按照纱向铺在布料和衬布上分别进行裁制；
(2)根据结构图对缝制止点的位置进行衣片绘制剪口标记：裁制过程中按照结构图的对位标记用剪刀在布料上剪开一个0.3cm长的剪口，以便后期的缝制过程中起到对位的作用，使完成的成衣效果与结构图相辅；
(3)布料和衬布均为独片结构，将内、外领、门襟与衬布经过高温定型粘合机固 定牢固；
(4)依据顺序性缝制工序依次缝绱门襟、内、外领，所述顺序性缝制工序为：A.铺片复核结构片纸样画内、外领、门襟缝合线；B.熨斗扣烫门襟；C.对接衣片门襟；D.缝制内、外领；E.熨斗整烫领子、领型；F.缝绱衣身领子；
对接衣片门襟工序中，缝合门襟上口时缝合到绱领止点后再拐直角一直缝合到门襟缝份上口，门襟上口按照绱领止点的位置在反面用剪刀打斜口，翻到正面之后门襟上口缝份边是缝合线边。
在上述技术方案的基础上，本发明还可以做如下改进：
进一步的，所述铺片复核结构片纸样画内、外领、门襟缝合线工序为：将结构片的净纸样放在衣片的中间，周边有1.0cm缝份，用可以消迹的笔围绕纸样画出一圈缝合线，所述的衣片包括门襟和内、外领。缝制过程中将门襟、领里面分别对齐，形状大小一致，严格按画线缝合，这样既方便又精准。
进一步的，所述熨斗扣烫门襟工序为：用熨斗按缝合线将门襟内口两边分别向里扣烫，上下层内口扣烫一齐。
进一步的，所述对接衣片门襟工序中，所述对接衣片门襟包括门襟和大身两部分，采用合并工序进行，工序标准设定为301线迹，针数14-16针/3cm，大身止口边先缉0.8cm缝线，这样操作能够更准确的掌握缝份宽度，成衣后不会出现毛漏，再根据明线宽度机0.1cm明线夹绱门襟，回车固定。
进一步的，所述缝制内、外领工序中，按照合并工序进行，工序标准设定为301线迹，针数14-16针/3cm，在缝制内外领时，先将内领下口按画线扣烫后在与外领缝合，缝合时将内外领上口对齐，顺画线缝合，弧度圆顺，回车固定。
进一步的，所述熨斗整烫领子、领型工序中，将熨斗在领子缝合拼接处烫平整，领缝份剃成梯形0.4cm-0.6cm后翻烫平整，烫上下层一起，内领下口将1.0cm缝份再次握烫平整，最后按照领子的纸板形状复核一下领型矫正定型。
进一步的，所述缝绱衣身领子工序中，将大身与领子缝份对齐，顺画线、弧度缝绱一周进行叠合，缝份包在内、外领中间，距离内领边缘缉0.1cm明线，完成效果。
本发明的有益效果是：(1)门襟上口的缝合线到绱领止点位置后再垂直向上缝合至门襟上口缝份边，然后用剪刀开斜剪，翻到正面后，门襟开剪边是看不到的，缝合边没有毛边，这样缝绱完的领子不容易出现撕破、露毛边等问题，所述门襟领子经过工艺改进在反面裁制来确保产品受任何外力都不会出现破损；(2)绱缝工艺操作对操 作人员没有高要求，易操作，非常利于工业化生产，很大的提高了工作效益，降低了成品的返修率。
附图说明
图1为探头门襟领子服装的结构示意图；
图2为实施例1中所述领子的绱缝示意图；
图3为实施例2中所述领子的绱缝示意图；
图4为门襟和领子净纸样的结构示意图；
图5为熨斗扣烫门襟的结构示意图；
[根据细则26改正13.11.2019]　
图6为探头门襟领子的结构示意图。
具体实施方式
为使本发明的上述目的、特征和优点能够更加明显易懂，下面对本发明的具体实施方式做详细的说明。在下面的描述中阐述了很多具体细节以便于充分理解本发明。
但是本发明能够以很多不同于在此描述的其它方式来实施，本领域技术人员可以在不违背本发明内涵的情况下做类似改进，因此本发明不受下面公开的具体实施例的限制。
除非另有定义，本文所使用的所有的技术和科学术语与属于本发明的技术领域的技术人员通常理解的含义相同。本文中在本发明的说明书中所使用的术语只是为了描述具体的实施方式的目的，不是旨在于限制本发明。
实施例1
如图2所示，一种探头门襟领子的裁制与绱缝工艺方法，所述的裁制和绱缝工艺包括以下步骤：
(1)根据领子与门襟的绘制图对领子、门襟、衣片进行裁制：将所需裁制的内领、外领、门襟、前片均按照纱向铺在布料和衬布上分别进行裁制；
(2)根据结构图对缝制止点的位置进行衣片绘制剪口标记：裁制过程中按照结构图的对位标记用剪刀在布料上剪开一个0.3cm长的剪口；
(3)布料和衬布均为独片结构，将内、外领、门襟与衬布经过高温定型粘合机固定牢固；
(4)依据顺序性缝制工序依次缝绱门襟、内、外领，所述顺序性缝制工序为：A.铺片复核结构片纸样画内、外领、门襟缝合线；B.熨斗扣烫门襟；C.对接衣片门襟；D.缝制内、外领；E.熨斗整烫领子、领型；F.缝绱衣身领子；
对接衣片门襟工序中，缝合门襟上口时缝合到绱领止点后再拐直角一直缝合到门 襟缝份上口，门襟上口按照绱领止点的位置在反面用剪刀打斜口，如图2中的2-1，翻到正面之后门襟上口缝份边是缝合线边，如图2中的2-2。
所述铺片复核结构片纸样画内、外领、门襟缝合线工序为：将结构片的净纸样4-1和净纸样4-3，所述的净纸样不带毛缝，放在衣片的中间，周边有1.0cm缝份4-2和4-4处，用可以消迹的笔围绕纸样画出一圈缝合线，所述的衣片包括门襟和内、外领。
所述熨斗扣烫门襟工序为：用熨斗按缝合线将门襟两边向里扣烫，如图5中的5-1。
所述对接衣片门襟工序中，所述对接衣片门襟包括门襟和大身两部分，采用合并工序进行，工序标准设定为301线迹，针数14-16针/3cm，回车固定。
所述缝制内、外领工序中，按照合并工序进行，工序标准设定为301线迹，针数14-16针/3cm，回车固定。
所述熨斗整烫领子、领型工序中，将熨斗在领子缝合拼接处6-1烫平整，内领下口6-2将1.0cm缝份向里握烫平整，如图5中的5-1，最后按照领子的纸板形状复核一下领型矫正定型。
所述缝绱衣身领子工序中，将大身与领子进行叠合，完成门襟夹绱领子效果2-3。
本实施例中所述的工艺方法中，绱领止点处1-1采用在反面裁制的方式2-1来改善在正面裁制3-1后再绱领子的新型缝绱方法，缝合边2-2没有毛边，这样就避免了因为抻拉或搓洗后出现的毛漏、撕破、破损等情况，牢固性很大一步增加
实施例2
如图3所示为现有的传统缝制绱领的工艺方法，一种探头门襟领子的裁制与绱缝工艺方法，所述的裁制和绱缝工艺包括以下步骤：
(1)根据领子与门襟的绘制图对领子、门襟、衣片进行裁制：将所需裁制的内领、外领、门襟、前片均按照纱向铺在布料和衬布上分别进行裁制；
(2)根据结构图对缝制止点的位置进行衣片绘制剪口标记；
(3)布料和衬布均为独片结构，将内、外领、门襟与衬布经过高温定型粘合机固定牢固；
(4)依据顺序性缝制工序依次缝绱门襟、内、外领；
门襟上口的缝合线就到绱领止点的地方，然后用剪刀开直剪，翻到正面后门襟开剪边是布料的开剪没有任何处理，如图3中的3-2，易毛边；缝绱完的领子，如图3中的3-3就容易出现撕破、露毛边等问题，非常不利于工业生产。
以上所述实施例的各技术特征可以进行任意的组合，为使描述简洁，未对上述实 施例中的各个技术特征所有可能的组合都进行描述，然而，只要这些技术特征的组合不存在矛盾，都应当认为是本说明书记载的范围。
以上所述实施例仅表达了本发明的几种实施方式，其描述较为具体和详细，但并不能因此而理解为对发明专利范围的限制。应当指出的是，对于本领域的普通技术人员来说，在不脱离本发明构思的前提下，还可以做出若干变形和改进，这些都属于本发明的保护范围。因此，本发明专利的保护范围应以所附权利要求为准。

Claims (7)

  1. 一种探头门襟领子的裁制与绱缝工艺方法，其特征在于，所述的裁制和绱缝工艺包括以下步骤：
    (1)根据领子与门襟的绘制图对领子、门襟、衣片进行裁制：将所需裁制的内领、外领、门襟、前片均按照纱向铺在布料和衬布上分别进行裁制；
    (2)根据结构图对缝制止点的位置进行衣片绘制剪口标记：裁制过程中按照结构图的对位标记用剪刀在布料上剪开一个0.3cm长的剪口；
    (3)布料和衬布均为独片结构，将内、外领、门襟与衬布经过高温定型粘合机固定牢固；
    (4)依据顺序性缝制工序依次缝绱门襟、内、外领，所述顺序性缝制工序为：A.铺片复核结构片纸样画内、外领、门襟缝合线；B.熨斗扣烫门襟；C.对接衣片门襟；D.缝制内、外领；E.熨斗整烫领子、领型；F.缝绱衣身领子；
    对接衣片门襟工序中，缝合门襟上口时缝合到绱领止点后再拐直角一直缝合到门襟缝份上口，门襟上口按照绱领止点的位置在反面用剪刀打斜口，翻到正面之后门襟上口缝份边是缝合线边。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的一种探头门襟领子的裁制与绱缝工艺方法，其特征在于，所述铺片复核结构片纸样画内、外领、门襟缝合线工序为：将结构片的净纸样放在衣片的中间，周边有1.0cm缝份，用可以消迹的笔围绕纸样画出一圈缝合线。
  3. 根据权利要求1所述的一种探头门襟领子的裁制与绱缝工艺方法，其特征在于，所述熨斗扣烫门襟工序为：用熨斗按缝合线将门襟内口两边分别向里扣烫，上下层内口扣烫一齐。
  4. 根据权利要求1所述的一种探头门襟领子的裁制与绱缝工艺方法，其特征在于，所述对接衣片门襟工序中，所述对接衣片门襟包括门襟和大身两部分，采用合并工序进行，工序标准设定为301线迹，针数14-16针/3cm，回车固定。
  5. 根据权利要求1所述的一种探头门襟领子的裁制与绱缝工艺方法，其特征在于，所述缝制内、外领工序中，按照合并工序进行，工序标准设定为301线迹，针数14-16针/3cm，回车固定。
  6. 根据权利要求1所述的一种探头门襟领子的裁制与绱缝工艺方法，其特征在于，所述熨斗整烫领子、领型工序中，将熨斗在领子缝合拼接处烫平整，领缝份剃成梯形0.4cm-0.6cm后翻烫平整，烫上下层一起，内领下口将1.0cm缝份再次握烫平整，最后按照领子的纸板形状复核一下领型矫正定型。
  7. 根据权利要求1所述的一种探头门襟领子的裁制与绱缝工艺方法，其特征在于，所述缝绱衣身领子工序中，将大身与领子缝份对齐，顺画线、弧度缝绱一周进行叠合，缝份包在内、外领中间，距离内领边缘缉0.1cm明线，完成效果。
PCT/CN2019/108813 2019-08-07 2019-09-28 一种探头门襟领子的裁制与绱缝工艺方法 WO2021022649A1 (zh)

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