WO2019205240A1 - 一种无缝针织衬衫的制作方法 - Google Patents

一种无缝针织衬衫的制作方法 Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2019205240A1
WO2019205240A1 PCT/CN2018/090896 CN2018090896W WO2019205240A1 WO 2019205240 A1 WO2019205240 A1 WO 2019205240A1 CN 2018090896 W CN2018090896 W CN 2018090896W WO 2019205240 A1 WO2019205240 A1 WO 2019205240A1
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shirt
fabric
hot melt
melt adhesive
manufacturing
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PCT/CN2018/090896
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English (en)
French (fr)
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王斌
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中山爵邦时装科技有限公司
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Publication of WO2019205240A1 publication Critical patent/WO2019205240A1/zh

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41HAPPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H42/00Multi-step production lines for making clothes

Definitions

  • the invention relates to the technical field of garment processing, and in particular to a method for manufacturing a seamless knitted shirt.
  • Clothing, food, shelter and transportation are indispensable parts of people's lives. With the advancement of society and people's economic ability, people's requirements for dressing are getting higher and higher, and the quality of clothes is getting higher and higher.
  • Shirts are used as clothing. One of the nature is also included.
  • shirts are the most popular clothes.
  • the shirts are simple and generous in design, simple in craftsmanship, and can be personalized. Whether they are worn or worn, they can show fashion temperament.
  • the number and style of shirts on the market are diverse, but the quality is not uniform, and high-quality, high-end, high-end shirts are lacking.
  • the sweaters and shirts on the market belong to two different categories.
  • the main reason is that the fabric used for the sweater is knitted fabric, the shirt is made of woven fabric, the knitted fabric is soft, light and thin, easy to wrinkle, and cannot be shaped, so knitting Fabrics can't be shirts, but you can only choose to use woven fabrics for shirts.
  • the appearance is perfect, it is stiff and tangible, but it is impossible to have the soft, comfortable and close-fitting experience of sweaters.
  • there is a problem that the shrinkage rate of the shirt fabric is large.
  • the object of the present invention is to provide a method for manufacturing a seamless knitted shirt, which realizes the perfect combination of a sweater and a shirt, and the obtained shirt clothes have an accuracy of 0.1 mm, good flatness, natural transition, no ironing, shape protection, beautiful appearance and light weight. It is water-resistant, machine washable and does not deform after washing. At the same time, it has good flexibility and has soft, close-fitting and comfortable knitting yarn.
  • a method of making a seamless knit shirt comprising the steps of:
  • Material selection choose two-sided or four-sided elastic knitted fabric
  • (3) splicing applying a binder within a width of 2-15 mm of the joined edges of the two components to be joined, the binder being a combination of hot melt adhesive and silicone hydrogel,
  • the hot melt adhesive is selected from PU or TPU, check for leaking glue, flatten the fabric, and join the two parts together. Use a flat hot press or laser to irradiate the adhesive. After cooling, the two parts of the fabric are bonded. together.
  • the hot melt adhesive and the silicone hydrogel have a mass ratio of from 1 to 10:1, preferably from 1 to 5:1, more preferably from 1 to 2:1.
  • step (3) is to apply an adhesive tape having a release paper thickness of 0.08-0.1 mm, respectively, over a width of 2-15 mm of the joined edges of the two parts to be joined.
  • the tape is adhered to a composition of the binder hot melt adhesive of the present invention and a silicone hydrogel selected from the group consisting of PU or TPU.
  • step (3) also uses a mold and a pad to place the two pieces to be joined in the corresponding mold and pad for better shape retention.
  • the key parts of the shirt, cuffs, sleeves, sleeves, front piece, door tube, over shoulder, collar, laser and mold are cut to ensure the accuracy and aesthetics of the shirt, and the finished product is more compact, thus better Shape protection, but also save fabric.
  • the adhesive of the invention is synergistic effect of PU or TPU and silicone hydrogel to stabilize the shrinkage rate of the fabric.
  • the key parts of the shirt are cuffs, sleeves, sleeves, front piece, door tube, over shoulder, and clothing leading on two sides or four sides.
  • the knitted fabric is coated with an adhesive to fix the shrinkage of the fabric to a very precise size.
  • the advantages of small laser focusing point, concentrated heating, and convenient adjustment are utilized, and the cloth can be cut and joined more accurately, and the precision of the clothes cut and joined by the laser and the mold is further ensured at 0.1 mm, and the connection is further Closer and better joints.
  • the knitted fabric is directly pressed and connected by a tape, and the connection is firm.
  • the peeling strength between the fabrics is 15.9-16.6 N/cm, and the water is washed by water at 40 ° C for 10 times or more, and no delamination is observed after 45 minutes.
  • the peeling strength after washing is greater than 7-13N/cm, far greater than the international standard 5.0N/cm, and the perfect combination of sweater and shirt is achieved, the obtained shirt has an accuracy of 0.1 mm, good flatness, natural transition, no hot,
  • the shape is protected, beautiful, light, washable, machine washable and not deformed after washing, and has good flexibility, and has a soft, close-fitting and comfortable knitting yarn.
  • the invention realizes the perfect combination of the sweater and the shirt, and the obtained shirt clothes has an accuracy of 0.1 mm, which is a very large span for the production of the top garment, and the flatness is good, the transition is natural, and the ironing is free.
  • the shape is protected, beautiful, light, washable, machine washable and not deformed after washing, and has good flexibility, and has a soft, close-fitting and comfortable knitting yarn.
  • the key parts of the shirt are cuffs, sleeves, sleeves, front panels, door pockets, over-shoulders, and garments.
  • the adhesive is applied to the double-sided or four-sided elastic knitted fabric to fix the shrinkage of the fabric, and then the laser and The form of the mold is cut and finally spliced to obtain a very precise size, achieving an accuracy of 0.1 mm, ensuring the accuracy and aesthetics of the shirt, and the finished product is more compact, thereby better protecting the shape and saving the fabric.
  • the invention can make the garment automatically completed by the device, and basically does not require manual intervention, so it is beneficial to realize automatic production, save a lot of manpower and material resources, can effectively reduce the cost of garment manufacturing, and improve economic benefits.
  • Figure 1 is a schematic view of the structure of the present invention
  • FIG. 2 is a schematic view of a cuff, a sleeve fork, a sleeve, a front piece, a door cylinder, and a collar.
  • Figure 3 is a mosaic view.
  • a method for manufacturing a seamless knit shirt as shown in FIG. 1 includes the following steps:
  • Material selection choose four-sided elastic knitted fabric
  • the four-sided knitted fabric is cut into suitable shapes and sizes.
  • the key parts of the shirt are cuffs, sleeves, sleeves, front panels, door pockets, over shoulders and garments.
  • the binder hot melt adhesive
  • the binder is composed of PU and silicone hydrogel with a mass ratio of 1:1
  • the fabric is leveled, and the hot press is used for hot pressing and setting, and the temperature is controlled to 160.
  • °C time is 20S
  • pressure is 3kg/cm 2 , ensuring that the knitted fabric is flat and there is no leakage phenomenon. It is cut by laser and mold to make the target parts, and other parts are cut by electric cutting machine; the following steps are included:
  • the four-sided elastic knitted fabric is covered with a layer of adhesive, the fabric is leveled, and the hot pressing machine is used for hot pressing and setting, the temperature is controlled at 160 ° C, the time is 30 S, the pressure is 3 kg/cm 2 , and the knitted fabric is ensured to be flat. Leakage phenomenon, cut in the form of laser and mold, to get cuffs, sleeves, sleeves, front piece (ie door tube), over shoulder, collar piece, see Figure 2.
  • sleeve fork parts fold the sleeve fork piece by hand to fold it in half, and press it on the steaming machine. Pay attention to the inner and outer alignment of the tail end. Cool down for 2-4 hours to cool the glue and remove the adhesive tape. The specified position of the body is placed in the middle of the first (two) sleeve fork for the steaming connection. Note that the sleeve body must be in the center of the sleeve fork, and the sleeve fork is placed in the high pressure machine. Hot, pay attention to the indentation and leakage phenomenon, check whether it is stable, get the armrest parts.
  • Preparation of cuff parts The cuff pieces are folded in a folded shape by hand, and the shape is pressed on the steaming machine. After cooling for 2-4 hours, the hot melt is cooled and fixed, and the two corners of the cuff are tightly wrapped to avoid rotten angle. The adhesive tape is torn off, and the sleeves are docked and the cuffs are steamed.
  • the shirt body is full, put the sleeves into the folds, fold the folds to cover the cuffs; press the high pressure to adjust the temperature, press the cuffs into the high pressure machine, align the sleeves with the cuffs, and put In the joint position, fold the cuff fold, cover the armband and press it with the iron to fix it, then flatten the sleeve fork and the sleeve, press a laminate strip, press hard, and connect the cuff to the sleeve. Close, pay attention to no indentation and leakage, and cool for 2-4 hours, until the hot melt is cooled and fixed. Press the cuff and sleeve connection position with a high pressure machine to obtain the shirt cuff parts.
  • the outer layer of the upper collar is prepared: the upper collar of the collar piece is folded and folded in a hand-fold shape, and is pressed on the steaming machine, and cooled for 2-4 hours to be cooled and fixed by the hot melt to obtain the outer layer of the upper collar.
  • the upper collar with inner layer is prepared: another four-sided elastic knitted fabric is covered with an inner layer of lining, the fabric is flattened, and hot pressing is used for hot pressing to ensure that the fabric is flattened by laser and mold.
  • the upper collar with the inner layer is folded in half by hand and folded in a shape on the steaming machine. It is cooled for 2-4 hours to be cooled and fixed by the hot melt glue.
  • the outer layer of the lower collar of the knitted shirt is made: a layer of special shirt is covered on the knitted fabric to make the fabric flat.
  • the hot press is used for hot pressing to ensure that the fabric is flat and has no wrinkles.
  • the mold is cut by a method such as a mold or a laser, and the shape is folded in half by hand, and the shape of the lower layer of the knitted shirt is obtained by cooling the shape on the steaming machine for 2-4 hours.
  • the lower-level collar is lined, the shape is drawn with the real mold, the tailor is followed by the line drawing, the upper collar and the lower collar are three-layered and the seam is sewn. Note that the two collars must be round and uniform. Square corner, use a knife to cut off the excess stop. Fold the 0.2cm open line.
  • the upper collar sewing the knife handle cut off the excess end of the lower collar, leaving 0.5cm sub-port, according to the size of the position, the sewing work on the collar, pay attention to uniform capacity, tightly wrapped on both sides, and then wrapped in the mouth pressure
  • the collar part is obtained by a 0.2 cm open line.
  • Adhesive tape with a release paper thickness of 0.08 mm is adhered to the width W of the joint edge of the two parts to be joined, which is 7 mm (as shown in Fig. 3);
  • the adhesive tape is adhered with a binder PU and a silicone hydrogel.
  • the mass ratio of the two is 1:1, and the presence or absence of leakage is checked.
  • the fabric is flattened, the release paper is peeled off, and the two pieces are relatively close together.
  • the temperature is controlled at 160 ° C, the time is 30 S, the pressure is 3 kg / cm 2 , and the fabric of the two parts is bonded together after cooling.
  • the precision of the shirt obtained in this embodiment reaches 0.1 mm, ensuring the accuracy and the appearance of the shirt, and the obtained shirt has good flatness, natural transition, no hot, conformal, beautiful, light, washable, machine washable and not washed.
  • the deformation can save the fabric, and at the same time, the flexibility is good, and the knitting yarn is soft, close and comfortable.
  • the washing resistance temperature is below 90 °C, the peeling strength between the fabrics is 16.3 N/cm, and the water is washed by water at 40 °C for 10 times or more. No delamination is observed after 45 minutes, and the peeling strength after washing is 14.3 N/cm. Far greater than the international standard 5.0N/cm.
  • step (1) two-sided elastic knitted fabric is selected; the adhesive tape is adhered with a binder of TPU and a silicon hydrogel, and the mass ratio of the two is 1:2.
  • the laser is used to illuminate the binder.
  • the TPU and the silicon hydrogel of the invention cooperate to stabilize the shrinkage rate of the fabric, and the obtained garment has the precision of 0.1 mm, the flatness is good, the transition is natural, the hand feels soft, the ironing is free, the shape is preserved, the appearance is beautiful, the flexibility is good, and the washing is resistant. Machine wash and no deformation after washing.
  • the difference step (2) also uses a mold and a mat, and the two pieces to be joined are placed in the corresponding mold and the finished product obtained in the mat to better shape.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)

Abstract

一种无缝针织衬衫的制作方法,将两面弹或四面弹针织面料裁剪成合适形状及尺寸的衣片,衬衫的关键部件袖口、袖叉、袖子、前片、门筒、过肩、衣领,先在两面弹或四面弹针织面料上涂上粘结剂,用激光和模具的形式进行裁剪,制作成目标部件,其他部件则用裁床电剪;然后拼接,实现针织衫和衬衫的完美结合,得到的衬衫衣服精度在0.1毫米,平整性好,过渡自然,免烫、保型、美观、轻便、耐水洗、机洗且洗后不变形,同时柔顺性好,具有针织纱的松软、贴身、舒适。

Description

一种无缝针织衬衫的制作方法 技术领域:
本发明涉及服装加工技术领域,具体涉及一种无缝针织衬衫的制作方法。
背景技术:
衣食住行是人们生活必不可缺的部分,随着社会的进步,人们的经济能力的提高,人们对穿衣方面的要求也越来越高,对衣服的质量要求也越来越高,衬衫作为服装中的一种自然也包括在内。
春夏秋冬,衬衫是最多人穿着的服饰,衬衫设计简洁大方,工艺简单,可以个性化搭配,不管是里穿还是外穿都可以显出时尚的气质。
目前市场上衬衫的数量、样式多样,但是质量良莠不齐,高质量、高端、高档的衬衫比较缺乏。目前市场上针织衫和衬衫属两个不同的品类,主要原因是针织衫使用的面料是针织面料,衬衫使用的是梭织面料,针织面料松软,轻薄,易皱折,无法保形,所以针织面料是无法做衬衫的,而只能选择用梭织面料做衬衫,虽然外观完美,硬挺有形,但是却不可能具有针织衫的那种松软,舒适,贴身的体验。此外还存在衬衣面料收缩率大的问题。
而且现有衬衫制衣方法大都将衬衫所有的组成部分统一裁剪然后采用传统的缝纫机针线缝制工艺缝合在一起,做成成衣。这样不可避免地会在衣服的外观上外露出缝纫线甚至出现连接缝隙,这样除了影响衣服的外观之外,还很容易因为清洗搓磨或外物划刮而造成局部缝纫线断开的情况,这样有可能导致衣服脱线而开口。此外针线缝制的过程中,缝纫过程中的每一针的刺透都会对衣服面料的组织结构产生永久性破坏,导致抗撕裂度降低,衣服穿在身体上,随着肢体的摆动,很容易导致拼缝接口破裂;最后服装重叠拼接处,最多可达6层,非常的厚,不易压平,而且布料容易起皱,影响产品的平整度和美观度。
发明内容:
本发明的目的是提供一种无缝针织衬衫的制作方法,实现针织衫和衬衫的完美结合,得到的衬衫衣服精度在0.1毫米,平整性好、过渡自然、免烫、保型、 美观、轻便、耐水洗、机洗且洗后不变形,同时柔顺性好,具有针织纱的松软、贴身、舒适。
本发明是通过以下技术方案予以实现的:
一种无缝针织衬衫的制作方法,该方法包括以下步骤:
(1)选料:选择两面弹或四面弹针织面料;
(2)裁剪:将两面弹或四面弹针织面料裁剪成合适形状及尺寸的衣片,其中,衬衫的关键部件袖口、袖叉、袖子、前片、门筒、过肩、衣领先在两面弹或四面弹针织面料上涂上粘结剂,所述粘结剂为热熔胶和硅水凝胶的组合物,所述热熔胶选自PU或TPU,将面料扶平整,用热压机进行热压定型,保证针织面料平整,无漏胶现象,用激光和模具的形式进行裁剪,制作成目标部件,其他部件则用裁床电剪;
(3)拼接:在要接合的两块部件的接合边的2-15毫米的宽度范围内涂上粘结剂,所述粘结剂为热熔胶和硅水凝胶的组合物,所述热熔胶选自PU或TPU,检查有无漏胶,将面料扶平整,将两块部件相对靠拢接合,利用平面热压机或激光照射粘结剂,冷却后两块部件的布料粘合在一起。
热熔胶和硅水凝胶质量比为1-10:1,优选为1-5:1,更优选为1-2:1。
特别地,步骤(3)为分别在要接合的两块部件的接合边的2-15毫米的宽度范围内贴上带有离型纸厚度为0.08-0.1毫米的粘结胶带,所述粘结胶带粘有本发明粘结剂热熔胶和硅水凝胶的组合物,所述热熔胶选自PU或TPU。
特别地,步骤(3)还使用了模具与垫具,将要接合的两块部件置于相应的模具与垫具内,从而更好地保型。
衬衫的关键部件袖口、袖叉、袖子、前片、门筒、过肩、衣领用激光和模具的形式进行裁剪,保证衬衣的精准度和美观度,得到的成品更括,从而更好地保型,又能节省面料。
本发明粘结剂为PU或TPU和硅水凝胶协同作用,稳定面料收缩率,衬衫的关键部件袖口、袖叉、袖子、前片、门筒、过肩、衣领先在两面弹或四面弹针织面料上涂上粘结剂,将面料的收缩率固定,得到非常精准的尺寸。
进一步地,利用了激光聚焦点小,加热集中,调节方便的优点,可以较精确地对布料进行裁切和接合,采用激光和模具的形式裁剪、接合的衣服精度进一步 保证在0.1毫米,且连接更加紧密,接合效果更好。
本发明将针织面料简单地利用胶带直接压合连接,连接牢靠,面料之间的剥离强度为15.9-16.6N/cm,经40℃水温水洗10次以上,每次45分钟后未见脱层,且洗后剥离强度大于7-13N/cm,远远大于国际标准5.0N/cm,且实现针织衫和衬衫的完美结合,得到的衬衫精度在0.1毫米,平整性好,过渡自然,免烫、保型、美观、轻便、耐水洗、机洗且洗后不变形,同时柔顺性好,具有针织纱的松软、贴身、舒适。
本发明的有益效果如下:
1)本发明实现了针织衫和衬衫的完美结合,得到的衬衫衣服精度达到0.1毫米,对于制作顶级的服装来说,这是一个非常大的跨越,此外平整性好,过渡自然,免烫、保型、美观、轻便、耐水洗、机洗且洗后不变形,同时柔顺性好,具有针织纱的松软、贴身、舒适。
2)衬衫的关键部件袖口、袖叉、袖子、前片、门筒、过肩、衣领先在两面弹或四面弹针织面料上涂上粘结剂,将面料的收缩率固定,然后用激光和模具的形式进行裁剪,最后再拼接,得到非常精准的尺寸,达到0.1毫米的精确度,保证衬衣的精准度和美观度,得到的成品更括,从而更好地保型,又能节省面料。
3)本发明可以使制衣通过设备自动完成,基本无需人工干预,所以有利于实现自动化生产,节约大量的人力物力,可以有效地降低制衣成本,提高经济效益。
附图说明:
图1是本发明的结构示意图;
其中1、袖子,2、前片、3、过肩,4、衣领,5、袖口。
图2是袖口、袖叉、袖子、前片、门筒、衣领裁片示意图。
图3是拼接示意图。
具体实施方式:
以下是对本发明的进一步说明,而不是对本发明的限制。
实施例1:
结构如图1所示的一种无缝针织衬衫的制作方法,该方法包括以下步骤:
(1)选料:选择四面弹针织面料;
(2)裁剪:将四面弹针织面料裁剪成合适形状及尺寸的衣片,其中,衬衫的关键部件袖口、袖叉、袖子、前片、门筒、过肩、衣领先在四面弹针织面料上涂上粘结剂,所述粘结剂(热熔胶)由质量比为1:1的PU和硅水凝胶组成,将面料扶平整,用热压机进行热压定型,控制温度为160℃,时间为20S,压力3kg/cm 2,保证针织面料平整,无漏胶现象,用激光和模具的形式进行裁剪,制作成目标部件,其他部件则用裁床电剪;具体包括以下步骤:
在四面弹针织面料上覆盖上一层粘结剂,将面料扶平整,用热压机进行热压定型,控制温度为160℃,时间为30S,压力3kg/cm 2,保证针织面料平整,无漏胶现象,用激光和模具的形式进行裁剪,得到袖口、袖叉、袖子、前片(即门筒)、过肩、衣领裁片,参见图2。
制备袖叉部件:将袖叉裁片手工折形状对折整齐,在汽烫机上进行压烫,注意尾部止口内外对齐,冷却2-4小时待热融胶冷却固定,撕掉胶纸,在袖身的规定位置将袖身裁片置于第一(二)袖叉条中间进行汽烫连接制作,注意袖身止口一定居于袖叉条的正中位置,把袖叉放入高压机平放压烫,注意压痕及漏胶现象,检查是否要稳固,得到袖叉部件。
制备袖口部件:将袖口裁片手工折形状对折整齐,在汽烫机上进行压烫形状,冷却2-4小时待热融胶冷却固定,注意袖口两个角包裹紧以免烂角现象。撕掉胶纸,在袖止口对接位,袖口进行汽烫连接制作。注意衫身止口位包满,放入袖条将折叠部翻折,折盖住袖口对接位;高压制作调温度压制时间,把袖口放入高压机平放,将袖叉与袖口对齐,放入接合位置,将袖口折叠部翻折,盖住袖叉用烫斗压紧使之固定,再将袖叉与袖身扶平,压上一层压条,用力压烫,使袖口与袖身连接紧密,注意无压痕及漏胶现象,冷却2-4小时,待热融胶冷却固定。用高压机对袖口及袖身连接位置进行压烫得到衬衫袖口部件。
制备门筒部件:把门筒裁片折压形状,切掉边上多余的止口,再返回合胶固定形状,用高压机定型得到门筒部件。
制备上衣领外层:将衣领裁片中的上衣领裁片手工折形状对折整齐,在汽烫机上进行压烫,冷却2-4小时待热融胶冷却固定得到上衣领外层。
制备带内层的上衣领:将另一块四面弹针织面料覆盖上一层内层衬朴,将面料扶平整,用热压机进行热压定型,保证面料平整用激光和模具的形式进行裁剪得到带内层的上衣领,手工折形状对折整齐,在汽烫机上进行压烫形状,冷却2-4小时待热融胶冷却固定。
制备粘合好的衣领半成品:撕掉胶纸,将上衣领外层胶面与带内层的上衣领的内层衬朴相向对齐,在汽烫台上将两者压紧粘合,冷却2-4小时等待热融胶冷却固定,得到粘合好的衣领半成品,检查无漏胶,平整无皱褶及精确度方面情况,通过高温压机进行压烫成型。
制作针织衬衫下级领的外层:在针织面料上覆盖上一层专用衬衣朴,将面料扶平整。用热压机进行热压定型,保证面料平整,无皱褶现象。使用模具或者激光等方法进行裁剪,手工折形状对折整齐,在汽烫机上进行压烫形状冷却2-4小时得到针织衬衫下级领的外层。
车缝工制作,下级领边走线,用实样模具画形状,裁缝工跟着画线,上级领和下级领三层合夹车缝,注意两角领耳一定要圆顺大小一致,不能起方角,用刀切去掉多余的止口.翻折压0.2cm明线。
上领车缝:刀车把下级领多余止口切掉,留0.5cm子口,根据尺寸量好位置,车缝工上领,注意容位均匀,两侧包裹紧,反则包裹止口压0.2cm明线得到衣领部件。
(3)拼接:在要接合的两块部件的接合边的宽度W为7毫米的宽度范围内黏贴上带有离型纸厚度为0.08毫米的粘结胶带(如图3所示);所述粘结胶带粘有粘结剂PU和硅水凝胶,两者质量比为1:1,检查有无漏胶,将面料扶平整,撕去离型纸,将两块衣片相对靠拢接合,利用平面热压机,控制温度为160℃,时间为30S,压力3kg/cm 2,冷却后两块部件的布料粘合在一起。
本实施例得到的衬衣的精度达到0.1毫米,保证衬衣的精准度和美观度,得到的衬衣平整性好,过渡自然,免烫、保型、美观、轻便、耐水洗、机洗且洗后不变形,又能节省面料,同时柔顺性好,具有针织纱的松软、贴身、舒适。耐水洗温度为90℃以下,面料之间的剥离强度为16.3N/cm,经40℃水温水洗10次以上,每次45分钟后未见脱层,且洗后剥离强度14.3N/cm.远远大于国际标准5.0N/cm。
实施例2:
参考实施例1,不同之处在于步骤(1)选料:选择两面弹针织面料;所述粘结胶带粘有粘结剂为TPU和硅水凝胶,两者质量比为1:2,拼合时采用激光照射粘结剂。本发明TPU和硅水凝胶协同作用,稳定面料收缩率,得到的衣服精度达到极限0.1毫米,平整性好、过渡自然、手感柔软,免烫、保型、美观、柔顺性好,耐水洗、机洗且洗后不变形。
实施例3:
参考实施例1,不同之处步骤(2)还使用了模具与垫具,将要接合的两块衣片置于相应的模具与垫具内得到的成品更括,从而更好地保型。
上述实施例为本发明较佳的实施方式,但本发明的实施方式并不受上述实施例的限制,其他的任何未背离本发明的精神实质与原理下所作的改变、修饰、替代、组合、简化,均应为等效的置换方式,都包含在本发明的保护范围之内。

Claims (6)

  1. 一种无缝针织衬衫的制作方法,其特征在于,该方法包括以下步骤:
    (1)选料:选择两面弹或四面弹针织面料;
    (2)裁剪:将两面弹或四面弹针织面料裁剪成合适形状及尺寸的衣片,其中,衬衫的关键部件袖口、袖叉、袖子、前片、门筒、过肩、衣领先在两面弹或四面弹针织面料上涂上粘结剂,所述粘结剂为热熔胶和硅水凝胶的组合物,所述热熔胶选自PU或TPU,将面料扶平整,用热压机进行热压定型,保证针织面料平整,无漏胶现象,用激光和模具的形式进行裁剪,制作成目标部件,其他部件则用裁床电剪;
    (3)拼接:在要接合的两块部件的接合边的2-15毫米的宽度范围内涂上粘结剂,所述粘结剂为热熔胶和硅水凝胶的组合物,所述热熔胶选自PU或TPU,检查有无漏胶,将面料扶平整,将两块部件相对靠拢接合,利用平面热压机或激光照射粘结剂,冷却后两块部件的布料粘合在一起。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述无缝针织衬衫的制作方法,其特征在于,热熔胶和硅水凝胶质量比为1-10:1。
  3. 根据权利要求2所述无缝针织衬衫的制作方法,其特征在于,热熔胶和硅水凝胶质量比为1-5:1。
  4. 根据权利要求3所述无缝针织衬衫的制作方法,其特征在于,热熔胶和硅水凝胶的质量比为1-2:1。
  5. 根据权利要求1所述无缝针织衬衫的制作方法,其特征在于,步骤(3)为:分别在要接合的两块部件的接合边的2-15毫米的宽度范围内贴上带有离型纸厚度为0.08-0.1毫米的粘结胶带,所述粘结胶带粘有热熔胶和硅水凝胶的组合物,所述热熔胶选自PU或TPU。
  6. 根据权利要求1或2所述无缝针织衬衫的制作方法,其特征在于,步骤(3)还使用了模具与垫具,将要接合的两块部件置于相应的模具与垫具内。
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