WO2021022647A1 - 一种大衣止口的裁制加工方法 - Google Patents

一种大衣止口的裁制加工方法 Download PDF

Info

Publication number
WO2021022647A1
WO2021022647A1 PCT/CN2019/108811 CN2019108811W WO2021022647A1 WO 2021022647 A1 WO2021022647 A1 WO 2021022647A1 CN 2019108811 W CN2019108811 W CN 2019108811W WO 2021022647 A1 WO2021022647 A1 WO 2021022647A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
cutting
sewing
seam allowance
fabric
processing method
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/CN2019/108811
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
王显波
宋卫丽
万蕾
Original Assignee
山东舒朗服装服饰股份有限公司
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by 山东舒朗服装服饰股份有限公司 filed Critical 山东舒朗服装服饰股份有限公司
Publication of WO2021022647A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021022647A1/zh

Links

Images

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H43/00—Other methods, machines or appliances

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a cutting and processing method for overcoat mouth stop, which belongs to the technical field of clothing processing.
  • the current domestic education system and industrial system for windbreakers, coats, long coats and other similar front plackets are basically the same as the plate-making and production process.
  • the plate-making is to make the stop straight, parallel to the cloth edge, and use straight wire for production. Welding strips are closed and sewn together. In this way, the problem of normal tight fabrics is not prominent, but there will be some minor problems, such as wrinkles at the stop of the placket and internal hanging. If you make some loose fabrics, the problem will be more serious and obvious, and the placket will be lifted, not straight, and bend more seriously.
  • the present invention provides a cutting and processing method for overcoat mouth stop.
  • the cutting and processing method improves the defects of the prior art in terms of plate-making structure, fabric characteristics and processing methods, and makes various types of clothing
  • the end of the garment becomes straight, non-deformed and beautiful, which improves the production efficiency and reduces the sewing rate.
  • a cutting and processing method of overcoat mouth characterized in that the cutting and processing method includes the following steps:
  • the present invention can also be improved as follows:
  • step (1) when cutting, the size of the slope is adjusted to 0.5-2.5 degrees. Within the range of the slope, the mouth of each category of clothing can be made straight, not deformed, and beautiful.
  • step (2) when drawing the clean lines according to the structural board, leave a 1.0 cm seam allowance at the stop. It is more accurate in operation after drawing the clean line, and it is more convenient to sew according to the drawn line during the sewing process, and the seam allowance is consistent and straight.
  • a 6-degree oblique wire or a 12-degree oblique wire insert is fixed at a distance of 0.1 cm from the net edge to prevent the spout from being stretched and deformed during the sewing process.
  • step (3) the front piece is aligned with the edge of the passing edge when sewing the end, the shape is the same, the number of sewing needles is 14-16 stitches/3cm, the start and end points are back and forth 3 times, and the fixation is firm.
  • step (4) when ironing, net the seam allowance of the seam into a trapezoid of 0.4cm-0.6cm, and then straighten the front piece and the over side after splitting on the reverse side, and iron the seam edge during ironing.
  • the corner is square.
  • the beneficial effects of the present invention are: (1)
  • the present invention breaks the current conventional practice in plate making.
  • the stop is slanted according to the texture of the fabric.
  • the inclination range is between 0.5 degree and 2.5 degree.
  • sewing the 6 degree oblique and 12 degree oblique wire fixing strips are attached to make the seam not tight after sewing.
  • To reflect the shape of the mouth the finished mouth is straight and beautiful.
  • the present invention solves the problems of wrinkling, hanging and inner hanging of the mouth of long coats, windbreakers, coats, etc.
  • this invention s improvement in the sewing process solves the deficiencies of the previous technology in sewing, and new employees can also operate in the sewing process, which reduces the problems of low sewing rate and repeated ironing in the sewing process in the production process. Increase productivity.
  • Fig. 1 is a schematic view of cutting the mouth of the coat in the embodiment
  • Fig. 2 is a schematic diagram of drawing and gluing fillets in the embodiment
  • Figure 3 is a schematic diagram of the sewing process in the embodiment
  • Figure 4 is a schematic diagram of the ironing process in an embodiment
  • Fig. 5 is a schematic diagram of the structure of a tailored coat in the embodiment
  • Fig. 6 is a schematic diagram of the coat structure obtained by the conventional traditional cutting method.
  • a cutting and processing method of overcoat mouth includes the following steps:
  • this embodiment improves the defects of the prior art from the aspects of plate-making structure, fabric characteristics and processing methods, such as chest volume, shoulder slant, sleeve cage, stop Obvious changes in the mouth, as shown by the dotted line in Figure 1, make the mouth of each category of clothing straight, non-deformed, and beautiful, thereby improving production efficiency and reducing sewing inefficiency.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)

Abstract

一种大衣止口的裁制加工方法，包括如下步骤：（1）裁剪：将面料纱向铺平后根据结构板进行裁剪，并调整斜度大小；（2）绘制、粘嵌条：将结构板铺在面料前片上，按照结构板画净线，在净线处粘6度斜丝或12度斜丝嵌条进行固定；（3）缝制：将前片与过面拎起看两片形状大小相辅后，根据前片净线位置进行缝制止口处理；（4）熨烫。该方法从制版上打破目前的常规做法，止口根据面料的质地打斜，使止口与过面缝合后与衣片的面料松懈度能相匹配，斜度为0.5-2.5度，缝制时粘6度斜或12度斜丝固定嵌条，使止口缝合后不紧，完成的止口顺直、美观，同时在缝制上新员工也可以操作，大大提高生产效率，减少缝制低下率。

Description

一种大衣止口的裁制加工方法 技术领域
本发明涉及一种大衣止口的裁制加工方法，属于服装加工技术领域。
背景技术
目前国内教育体系和工业体系中对于风衣、大衣、长上衣等类似款前门襟直止口的制版和制作工艺基本类同，制版是将止口做直，与布边平行，制作时用直丝嵌条合缝缉合，这样做正常质地紧密面料问题还不算突出，但也会有一些小问题，如门襟止口处起皱、内吊。如做一些松散面料，问题就会比较严重明显，门襟止口会起吊、不直，内弯较严重。
以上问题主要是由制版和缝制工艺不当造成的，原因有两点：(1)制版时用惯性思维，直门襟制版止口也是直的与门襟平行，这样止口的纱向是直的，没有弹性。制作时面与过面缉合时，缉合线会自然收缩，无弹止口本身形状已经固定，在此基础上自然收缩会造成止口的起皱和内吊，起皱、内吊和面料的质地是成正比的，越紧密的面料会越皱，越松懈的面料越会内吊。(2)与工艺制作相关，通常我们在制作止口都粘直丝嵌条，使止口弹性变小，问题会凸显严重。如果能够设计一种大衣止口的裁制加工方法来解决以上问题，则可以有效提高服装品质。
发明内容
本发明针对现有技术存在的不足，提供一种大衣止口的裁制加工方法，所述的裁制加工方法从制版结构、面料特性和工艺处理方法上改善现有技术缺陷，使服装各品类成衣止口变得顺直、不变形、美观，从而提高了生产效率，减少缝制低下率。
本发明解决上述技术问题的技术方案如下：一种大衣止口的裁制加工方法，其特征在于，所述的裁制加工方法包括如下步骤：
(1)裁剪：将面料纱向铺平后根据结构板进行裁剪，并调整斜度大小；止口根据面料的质地打斜，面料松懈度越大，斜度越大，面料松懈度越小，斜度越小，使止口与过面缝合后与衣片的面料松懈度能相匹配，绘制结构版时根据面料特性、松懈量与纹理织法进行绘制结构版，松懈度越高，止口弧度越大；
(2)绘制、粘嵌条：将结构板铺在面料前片上，按照结构板画净线，在净线处粘6度斜丝或12度斜丝嵌条进行固定；
(3)缝制：将前片与过面拎起看两片形状大小相辅后，根据前片净线位置进行缝制止口处理，根据面料成分进行不同规格的剃缝处理；
(4)熨烫。
在上述技术方案的基础上，本发明还可以做如下改进：
进一步的，步骤(1)中，裁剪时，斜度大小调整为0.5-2.5度，在该斜度范围内，可以使服装各品类成衣止口变得顺直、不变形、美观。
进一步的，步骤(2)中，按照结构板画净线时，在止口留出1.0cm缝份。画净线后在操作上更精准，缝制过程中按照画线缝合更方便且缝份宽窄一致、顺直。
进一步的，步骤(2)中，在距离净线边0.1cm处粘6度斜丝或12度斜丝嵌条进行固定，防止止口在缝制过程抻拉变形。
进一步的，步骤(3)中，缝制止口时前片与过面止口边对齐，形状一致，缝制针数14-16针/3cm，起止点倒针来回3趟，固定牢固。
进一步的，步骤(4)中，熨烫时，将止口缝份净成梯形0.4cm-0.6cm，在反面劈缝后再将前片与过面翻正，止口边进行中烫平整，拐角方正。
本发明的有益效果是：(1)本发明从制版上打破目前的常规做法，止口根据面料的质地打斜，面料松懈度越大，斜度越大，反之越小，使止口与过面缝合后与衣片的面料松懈度能相匹配，斜度范围在0.5度-2.5度之间，而缝制时粘6度斜与12度斜丝固定嵌条，使止口缝合后不紧，来体现止口的造型，完成的止口顺直、美观，本发明解决了目前国内不同面料不同款式的长上衣、风衣、大衣等止口起皱、上吊、内吊问题；(2)本发明在缝制工艺方面的改进解决了以往技术缝制上的不足，在缝制上新员工也可以操作，给生产环节在缝制工艺上减少了缝制率低下、反复熨烫等问题，同时提高生产效率。
附图说明
图1为实施例中大衣止口的裁剪示意图；
图2为实施例中绘制、粘嵌条的示意图；
图3为实施例中缝制处理的示意图；
图4为实施例中熨烫过程的示意图；
图5为实施例中裁制的大衣结构示意图；
图6为常规传统的裁制方法得到的大衣结构示意图。
具体实施方式
为使本发明的上述目的、特征和优点能够更加明显易懂，下面对本发明的具体实施方式做详细的说明。在下面的描述中阐述了很多具体细节以便于充分理解本发明。
但是本发明能够以很多不同于在此描述的其它方式来实施，本领域技术人员可以在不违背本发明内涵的情况下做类似改进，因此本发明不受下面公开的具体实施例的限制。
除非另有定义，本文所使用的所有的技术和科学术语与属于本发明的技术领域的技术人员通常理解的含义相同。本文中在本发明的说明书中所使用的术语只是为了描述具体的实施方式的目的，不是旨在于限制本发明。
如图1-5所示，一种大衣止口的裁制加工方法，所述的裁制加工方法包括如下步骤：
(1)裁剪：如图1所示，将面料纱向铺平后，根据结构板从A点到B点再到C点进行裁剪，并根据面料松懈度调整斜度大小，斜度大小为0.5-2.5度；
(2)绘制、粘嵌条：如图2所示，将结构板铺在面料前片上，止口留出1.0cm缝份，按照结构板画净线，在距离净线边0.1cm处粘6度斜丝或12度斜丝嵌条1进行固定；
(3)缝制：如图3所示，将前片与过面拎起看两片形状大小相辅后，根据前片净线2位置进行缝制止口处理，针数14-16针/3cm；根据面料成分进行不同规格的剃缝处理；
(4)熨烫：如图4所示，将前片与过面翻正，止口边进行中烫平整，得到最终的大衣成品，如图5所示。
与图6中表示的常规传统裁制方法得到的大衣结构相比，本实施例中从制版结构、面料特性和工艺处理方法上改善现有技术缺陷，撇胸量、肩斜、袖笼、止口处发生明显变化，如图1中的虚线处所示，使服装各品类成衣止口变得顺直、不变形、美观，从而提高了生产效率，减少缝制低下率。
以上所述实施例的各技术特征可以进行任意的组合，为使描述简洁，未对上述实施例中的各个技术特征所有可能的组合都进行描述，然而，只要这些技术特征的组合不存在矛盾，都应当认为是本说明书记载的范围。
以上所述实施例仅表达了本发明的几种实施方式，其描述较为具体和详细，但并不能因此而理解为对发明专利范围的限制。应当指出的是，对于本领域的普通技术人员来说，在不脱离本发明构思的前提下，还可以做出若干变形和改进，这些都属于本发明的保护范围。因此，本发明专利的保护范围应以所附权利要求为准。

Claims (6)

  1. 一种大衣止口的裁制加工方法，其特征在于，所述的裁制加工方法包括如下步骤：
    (1)裁剪：将面料纱向铺平后根据结构板进行裁剪，并调整斜度大小；
    (2)绘制、粘嵌条：将结构板铺在面料前片上，按照结构板画净线，在净线处粘6度斜丝或12度斜丝嵌条进行固定；
    (3)缝制：将前片与过面拎起看两片形状大小相辅后，根据前片净线位置进行缝制止口处理；
    (4)熨烫。
  2. 根据权利要1所述的一种大衣止口的裁制加工方法，其特征在于，步骤(1)中，裁剪时，斜度大小调整为0.5-2.5度。
  3. 根据权利要1所述的一种大衣止口的裁制加工方法，其特征在于，步骤(2)中，按照结构板画净线时，在止口留出1.0cm缝份。
  4. 根据权利要1所述的一种大衣止口的裁制加工方法，其特征在于，步骤(2)中，在距离净线边0.1cm处粘6度斜丝或12度斜丝嵌条进行固定。
  5. 根据权利要1所述的一种大衣止口的裁制加工方法，其特征在于，步骤(3)中，缝制止口时前片与过面止口边对齐，形状一致，缝制针数14-16针/3cm，起止点倒针来回3趟，固定牢固。
  6. 根据权利要1所述的一种大衣止口的裁制加工方法，其特征在于，步骤(4)中，熨烫时，将止口缝份净成梯形0.4cm-0.6cm，在反面劈缝后再将前片与过面翻正，止口边进行中烫平整，拐角方正。
PCT/CN2019/108811 2019-08-07 2019-09-28 一种大衣止口的裁制加工方法 WO2021022647A1 (zh)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CN201910724943.1A CN110495661A (zh) 2019-08-07 2019-08-07 一种大衣止口的裁制加工方法
CN201910724943.1 2019-08-07

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2021022647A1 true WO2021022647A1 (zh) 2021-02-11

Family

ID=68586440

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/CN2019/108811 WO2021022647A1 (zh) 2019-08-07 2019-09-28 一种大衣止口的裁制加工方法

Country Status (2)

Country Link
CN (1) CN110495661A (zh)
WO (1) WO2021022647A1 (zh)

Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20020014300A1 (en) * 2000-08-02 2002-02-07 Mitsuru Itoh Methods of cutting, Bonding, and sewing core pieces, tapes, and linings to woven fabric cloths, cut-and-sew type cloths,and bias front cloths by utilizing crossing tensions of left bias and right bias
CN101744396A (zh) * 2009-12-24 2010-06-23 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 一种防止服装下摆前门襟反翘的缝制方法
CN102823963A (zh) * 2012-09-17 2012-12-19 蓝豹股份有限公司 西服前身与挂面缝合工艺
CN103859656A (zh) * 2014-03-06 2014-06-18 山东舒朗服装服饰股份有限公司 一种连帽大衣的加工方法
CN109730384A (zh) * 2018-12-27 2019-05-10 吴国英 在挂面正面手工缝制弧形止口的方法

Family Cites Families (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN1555743A (zh) * 2004-01-08 2004-12-22 徐桂枝 特体西服的裁剪方法
CN102429327B (zh) * 2011-12-28 2013-11-06 山东南山纺织服饰有限公司 一种男士弹力西装的加工方法

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20020014300A1 (en) * 2000-08-02 2002-02-07 Mitsuru Itoh Methods of cutting, Bonding, and sewing core pieces, tapes, and linings to woven fabric cloths, cut-and-sew type cloths,and bias front cloths by utilizing crossing tensions of left bias and right bias
CN101744396A (zh) * 2009-12-24 2010-06-23 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 一种防止服装下摆前门襟反翘的缝制方法
CN102823963A (zh) * 2012-09-17 2012-12-19 蓝豹股份有限公司 西服前身与挂面缝合工艺
CN103859656A (zh) * 2014-03-06 2014-06-18 山东舒朗服装服饰股份有限公司 一种连帽大衣的加工方法
CN109730384A (zh) * 2018-12-27 2019-05-10 吴国英 在挂面正面手工缝制弧形止口的方法

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
CN110495661A (zh) 2019-11-26

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
WO2021022649A1 (zh) 一种探头门襟领子的裁制与绱缝工艺方法
WO2020024808A1 (zh) 一种服装勾开气摆角、合缝的一体缝纫模板及方法
KR101660651B1 (ko) 깨끼한복용 이음매의 박음질 방법
CN108866831B (zh) 一种互式组合的双面呢服装的封角工艺
WO2021022647A1 (zh) 一种大衣止口的裁制加工方法
CN108741358B (zh) 一种服装三开衩裁剪与缝制方法
CN109730384B (zh) 在挂面正面手工缝制弧形止口的方法
CN111820490B (zh) 一种裤子裁剪、归拔熨烫制作方法
CN110623357A (zh) 一种男士西裤的制作方法
WO2021022648A1 (zh) 一种帽口隐形连帽口绳的服装裁制方法
US20170029986A1 (en) Decorative engineered self hem
CN109208315A (zh) 一种家纺用拼接面料的缝制方法
CN206418325U (zh) 一种裤装腰头折边整烫辅助工具
CN207002991U (zh) 袋鼠袋免烫免点位贴袋模板
CN208455214U (zh) 一种两边同步嵌条缝制装置
CN213939822U (zh) 一种活衩折叠袖口
CN111218776B (zh) 一种无须熨烫的服装贴袋制作方法
CN108741325A (zh) 一种西装上衣船型手巾袋的制作方法
CN111264950A (zh) 一种梳尺制作口袋的裁制方法
CN109315864B (zh) 一种服装上装装里子后开衩结构及制作方法
CN210826642U (zh) 一种袖叉暗线拼接模具
CN108634392B (zh) 一种高档衬衣翻领领角的制作方法
US1867327A (en) Undergarment
RU83388U1 (ru) Предмет одежды
CN113558319A (zh) 一种上衣用单嵌线挖袋的裁剪与缝制方法

Legal Events

Date Code Title Description
121 Ep: the epo has been informed by wipo that ep was designated in this application

Ref document number: 19940906

Country of ref document: EP

Kind code of ref document: A1

NENP Non-entry into the national phase

Ref country code: DE

122 Ep: pct application non-entry in european phase

Ref document number: 19940906

Country of ref document: EP

Kind code of ref document: A1