WO2019193949A1 - Composition pour fibres de kératine comprenant une huile d'alcane en c13-15 ramifié volatile - Google Patents

Composition pour fibres de kératine comprenant une huile d'alcane en c13-15 ramifié volatile Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2019193949A1
WO2019193949A1 PCT/JP2019/010722 JP2019010722W WO2019193949A1 WO 2019193949 A1 WO2019193949 A1 WO 2019193949A1 JP 2019010722 W JP2019010722 W JP 2019010722W WO 2019193949 A1 WO2019193949 A1 WO 2019193949A1
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Prior art keywords
oil
volatile
weight
branched
composition
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PCT/JP2019/010722
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English (en)
Inventor
Kazumitsu Kawakami
Dhimoy ROY
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L'oreal
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Publication of WO2019193949A1 publication Critical patent/WO2019193949A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/31—Anhydrous
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/34—Free of silicones

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a composition for treating keratin fibers, preferably hair.
  • leave-on type and rinse-off type hair cosmetics are important sectors in the hair care category, and consumers use these hair cosmetics to provide hair with smoothness, a moist feeling, volume control and the like.
  • the leave-on type hair cosmetics include a substantial amount of silicones which may be divided into two categories: volatile silicones and non-volatile silicones.
  • volatile silicones volatile silicones
  • non-volatile silicones typically, the leave-on type hair cosmetics include a relatively large amount of volatile silicone(s) and a relatively small amount of non-volatile silicone(s).
  • volatile silicones in the cosmetics have been replaced with volatile non-silicone substituents.
  • volatile silicones in hair cosmetics have been replaced with volatile hydrocarbons such as isododecane and isohexadecane.
  • the use of volatile silicones in cosmetics preferably hair cosmetics, and more preferably leave-on hair cosmetics, can provide hair with excellent smoothness and volume reduction effects.
  • An objective of the present invention is to provide a composition for keratin fibers, such as hair, which includes a volatile ingredient that can be a new substitute for volatile silicone, and can provide the keratin fibers with better smoothness and improved volume reduction effects as compared with a composition including a conventional substitute, such as isododecane and isohexadecane, for volatile silicone.
  • composition for treating keratin fibers, preferably hair comprising:
  • the amount of the (a) volatile branched Ci 3-i5 alkane oil(s) is 30% by weight or more, preferably 40% by weight or more, and more preferably 50% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the (a) branched C l3-i5 alkane oil(s) and the (b) optional additional volatile oil(s).
  • the (a) volatile branched C13-15 alkane oil may be 2,6,l0-trimethyldodecane.
  • the amount of the (a) volatile branched Ci 3-i5 alkane oil(s) in the composition may be 99% by weight or less, preferably 95% by weight or less, and more preferably 90% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the (a) branched C l3-l5 alkane oil(s) and the (b) optional additional volatile oil(s).
  • the amount of the (a) volatile branched C l3-l5 alkane oil(s) in the composition may be 30% by weight or more, preferably 35% by weight or more, and more preferably 40% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (a) volatile branched C l3-i5 alkane oil(s) in the composition may be 90% by weight or less, preferably 80% by weight or less, and more preferably 70% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (b) optional additional volatile oil may comprise at least one non-silicone oil, which may be preferably selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils, and more preferably selected from the group consisting of isododecane, isohexadecane, undecane, tridecane arid mixtures thereof.
  • the amount of the (b) optional additional volatile oil(s) in the composition may be 10% by weight or more, preferably 15% by weight or more, and more preferably 20% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the (a) volatile branched C l3-l5 alkane oil(s) and the (b) optional additional volatile oil(s).
  • the amount of the (b) optional additional volatile oil(s) in the composition may be 45% by weight or less, preferably 40% by weight or less, and more preferably 35% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the (a) branched C l3-i5 alkane oil(s) and the (b) optional volatile oil(s).
  • the (c) non-volatile oil may be selected from silicone oils, non-silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • the amount of (c) non-volatile oil(s) in the composition may be from 1% to 50% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention may be substantially free from volatile silicone oil.
  • the volatile silicone oil may be selected from cyclic silicones, preferably selected from the group consisting of cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition according to the present invention may be anhydrous.
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin fibers.
  • the present invention also relates to a use of (a) at least one volatile branched C l3 -i5 alkane oil in a composition for treating keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising (b) at least one optional additional volatile oil other than the (a) branched C l3-i5 alkane oil(s) and (c) at least one non-volatile oil,
  • smoothness and volume reduction effects provided by the use according to the present invention are superior to those provided by the use of a conventional volatile hydrocarbon such as isododecane and isohexadecane.
  • composition for keratin fibers such as hair which includes a volatile ingredient that can be a new substitute for volatile silicone, and can provide the keratin fibers with better smoothness and improved volume reduction effects as compared with a composition including a conventional substitute, such as isododecane and isohexadecane, for volatile silicone.
  • the present invention mainly relates to a composition for treating keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising:
  • the amount of the (a) volatile branched C l3-i s alkane oil(s) is 30% by weight or more, preferably 40% by weight or more, and more preferably 50% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the (a) branched C l3-l5 alkane oil(s) and the (b) optional additional volatile oil(s).
  • a volatile branched C l3-l5 alkane oil can be used as a new substitute for volatile silicone.
  • a volatile branched Ci 3-i5 alkane oil can provide keratin fibers with smoothness and volume reduction effects which are better than those provided by the use of a
  • composition according to the present invention can provide keratin fibers with
  • composition including a conventional substitute, such as isododecane and isohexadecane, for volatile silicone, instead of the volatile branched Ci 3-l5 alkane oil in the composition according to the present invention.
  • a conventional substitute such as isododecane and isohexadecane
  • composition according to the present invention can provide keratin fibers with smoothness and volume reduction effects, and therefore, can provide a smooth feeling to the touch on keratin fibers and good style manageability for keratin fibers.
  • composition according to the present invention includes additional volatile oil(s) other than the branched Ci 3-i5 alkane oil(s), the composition according to the present invention can provide keratin fibers with further improved or enhanced smoothness and volume reduction effects.
  • composition according to the present invention can also provide keratin fibers with a good finish and can have a good texture and non-stickiness. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can provide a good appearance of the keratin fibers, a good feeling to the touch of keratin fibers, and less greasiness. Thus, the composition according to the present invention is suitable for hair cosmetics, in particular leave-on hair cosmetics.
  • composition according to the present invention can be substantially free from volatile silicone oil.
  • composition for treating keratin fibers, preferably hair comprising:
  • the amount of the (a) volatile branched C l3-l5 alkane oil(s) is 30% by weight or more, preferably 40% by weight or more, and more preferably 50% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the (a) branched Ci 3-l5 alkane oil(s) and the (b) optional additional volatile oil(s).
  • composition according to the present invention may or may not include the above ingredient (b). It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention includes at least one volatile non-silicone oil as the above ingredient (b).
  • composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one volatile branched Ci 3-l5 alkane oil.
  • a single type of volatile branched C13-15 alkane oil may be used, or two or more different types of volatile branched Ci 3-i5 alkane oil may be used in
  • “oil” means a compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) with a water solubility at 25°C of less than 0.5% by weight.
  • the branched C 13-15 alkane has a branched chemical structure including 13 to 15 carbon atoms. It is preferable that the branched C l3-l5 alkane have a branched chemical structure including 15 carbon atoms.
  • the branched Ci 3-i5 alkane oil may have a viscosity of 1 to 20 cps, preferably 1 to 10 cps, and more preferably 1 to 5 cps, at 20°C under atmospheric pressure.
  • the branched Ci 3-i5 alkane oil may have a density of 0.5 to 0.8 g/cm 3 , preferably 0.6 to 0.8 g/cm 3 , and more preferably 0.7 to 0.8 g/cm 3 , at 20°C under atmospheric pressure.
  • the branched C l3-l5 alkane oil may have a flash point of 90 to 200°C, preferably 100 to l60°C, and more preferably 110 to l20°C under atmospheric pressure.
  • Hemisqualane can be represented by the following chemical formula.
  • the amount of the (a) volatile branched C l3 -i 5 alkane oil(s) is 30% by weight or more, preferably 40% by weight or more, and more preferably 50% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the (a) branched C l3-l 5 alkane oil(s) and, if present, the (b) additional volatile oil(s) explained later.
  • the amount of the (a) volatile branched Ci 3-i5 alkane oil(s) may be 99% by weight or less, preferably 95% by weight or less, and more preferably 90% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the (a) branched C l3-l5 alkane oil(s) and, if present, the (b) additional volatile oil(s) explained later.
  • the amount of the (a) volatile branched Ci 3-i5 alkane oil(s) may be from 30% to 99% by weight, preferably from 40% to 95% by weight, and more preferably from 50% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the (a) branched Ci 3-l5 alkane oil(s) and, if present, the (b) additional volatile oil(s) explained later.
  • the amount of the (a) volatile branched Ci 3-l5 alkane oil(s) may be 30% by weight or more, preferably 35% by weight or more, and more preferably 40% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (a) volatile branched Ci 3-i5 alkane oil(s) may be 90% by weight or less, preferably 80% by weight or less, and more preferably 70% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.
  • the amount of the (a) volatile branched Ci 3-i5 alkane oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 60% by weight or less, preferably 55% by weight or less, and more preferably 50% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. In a preferable embodiment, the amount of the (a) volatile branched C l3-i5 alkane oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 30% to 90% by weight, preferably from 35% to 80% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (a) volatile branched C13-15 alkane oil(s) in the composition may be from 30% to 60% by weight, preferably from 35% to 55% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one optional additional volatile oil other than the volatile branched Ci 3-i5 alkane oil.
  • additional volatile oil may be used, or two or more different types of additional volatile oil may be used in combination.
  • composition according to the present invention may or may not include the additional volatile oil(s).
  • volatile oil means an oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials in less than one hour, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, which is liquid at room temperature, especially having a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 3 to 300 mmHg), preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and preferentially ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.1 to 10 mmHg).
  • the oils may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • composition of the present invention comprises at least one volatile non-silicone oil, which is more preferably selected from volatile fluoro oils and volatile hydrocarbon oils.
  • fluoro oil means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
  • the fluoro oils that may be used in the present invention may be chosen from fluorosilicone oils, fluoro polyethers and fluorosilicones as described in document EP-A-847 752, and perfluoro compounds.
  • perfluoro compounds means compounds in which all the hydrogen atoms have been replaced with fluorine atoms.
  • the fluoro oil according to the present invention is chosen from perfluoro oils.
  • perfluoro oils that may be used in the present invention, mention may be made of perfluorodecalins and perfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes.
  • the fluoro oil is chosen from
  • perfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes and especially the Fiflow® products sold by the company Creations Couliv.
  • use may be made of the fluoro oil whose INCI name is perfluoroperhydrophenanthrene, sold under the reference Fiflow 220 by the company F2 Chemicals.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
  • the volatile hydrocarbon oil has a flash point of greater than 65°C, and better still greater than 80°C.
  • the volatile hydrocarbon-based oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially C 8 -Ci 6 branched alkanes (also known as
  • isoparaffins for instance isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane, and mixture thereof.
  • the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may also be a linear volatile alkane containing 7 to 17 carbon atoms, in particular 9 to 15 carbon atoms and more particularly 11 to 13 carbon atoms. Mention may be made especially of n-nonadecane, n-decane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, n-pentadecane and n-hexadecane, and mixtures thereof.
  • the volatile hydrocarbon oil may preferably be selected from the group consisting of isododecane, isohexadecane, undecane, tridecane and mixtures thereof.
  • the amount of the (b) optional additional volatile oil(s), preferably volatile non-silicone oil(s), may be 10% by weight or more, preferably 15% by weight or more, and more preferably 20% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the (a) volatile branched C l3 -i5 alkane oil(s) and the (b) optional additional volatile oil(s).
  • the amount of the (b) optional additional volatile oil(s), preferably volatile non-silicone oil(s), may be from 45% by weight or less, preferably 40% by weight or less, and more preferably 35% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the (a) branched C l3-i5 alkane oil(s) and the (b) optional volatile oil(s).
  • the amount of the (b) optional additional volatile oil, preferably volatile non-silicone oil, may be from 10% to 45% by weight, preferably from 15% to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the (a) volatile branched Ci 3-l5 alkane oil(s) and the (b) optional additional volatile oil(s).
  • the amount of the (b) optional additional volatile oil, preferably volatile non-silicone oil, in the composition may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, and more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (b) optional additional volatile oil, preferably volatile non-silicone oil, in the composition according to the present invention may be 40% by weight or less, preferably 35% by weight or less, and more preferably 30% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (b) optional additional volatile oil, preferably volatile non-silicone oil, in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 5% to 35% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one volatile silicone oil.
  • a single type of volatile silicone oil may be used, or two or more different types of volatile silicone oil may be comprised in combination.
  • the volatile silicone oil may be chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
  • dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the type such as dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula:
  • organosilicon compounds such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of
  • the volatile silicone oil may be selected from cyclic silicones, preferably selected from the group consisting of cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane and mixtures thereof.
  • composition according to the present invention be substantially free from volatile silicone oil.
  • composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one volatile silicone oil in an amount of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, or the composition according to the present invention comprise no volatile silicone oil.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one non-volatile oil.
  • a single type of non-volatile oil may be used, or two or more different types of non-volatile oil may be used in combination.
  • non-volatile oil means an oil that remains on a keratin substance such as skin and hair at room temperature and pressure. More precisely, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly less than 0.01 mg/cm 2 /min.
  • the (c) non-volatile oil may be selected from silicone oils, non-silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • non-volatile non-silicone oils mention may be made of:
  • hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin such as phytostearyl esters, such as
  • triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810 ® , 812 ® and 818 ® by the company Dynamit Nobel;
  • esters for instance the oils of formula R1COOR2, in which Ri represents at least one linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on the condition that Ri + R2 3 10.
  • the esters may be chosen especially from fatty acid esters of alcohols, for instance cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and especially isostearyl heptanoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhe
  • polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters for instance dipentaerythrityl
  • esters of diol dimers and of diacid dimers are esters of diol dimers and of diacid dimers
  • copolymers of diol dimers and of diacid dimers and esters thereof such as dilinoleyl diol dimer/dilinoleic dimer copolymers, and esters thereof;
  • fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance
  • 2-octyldodecanol isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol;
  • C l2 -C 2 2 higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof;
  • dialkyl carbonates the two alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate;
  • polybutylenes polyisobutylenes, for example hydrogenated, polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, such as the
  • vinylpyrrolidone/l-hexadecene copolymer and polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) copolymers, such as the copolymers of a C 2 -C 30 alkene, such as C 3 -C 22 , and combinations thereof;
  • PVP polyvinylpyrrolidone
  • esters such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate;
  • aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate;
  • esters of fatty alcohols or of branched C 24 -C 28 fatty acids such as those described in patent US 6 491 927 and pentaerythritol esters, and especially triisoarachidyl citrate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl 2-tridecyltetradecanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, poly(2-glyceryl) tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl 2-tetradecyltetradecanoate; (vi) diol dimer esters and polyesters, such as esters of diol dimer and of fatty acid, and esters of diol dimer and of diacid.
  • the non-volatile non-silicone oil may be selected from polar oils, preferably ester oils, and more preferably fatty esters represented by the formula RCOOR’ wherein R denotes a C l-2 9 fatty acid residue, and R’ denotes C2-30 hydrocarbon group.
  • polar oils preferably ester oils, and more preferably fatty esters represented by the formula RCOOR’ wherein R denotes a C l-2 9 fatty acid residue, and R’ denotes C2-30 hydrocarbon group.
  • the non-volatile silicone oil that may be used in the present invention may be chosen from silicone oils with a viscosity at 25°C of greater than or equal to 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 x 10 6 m 2 /s) and less than 800 000 cSt, preferably between 10 and 600 000 cSt and preferably between 100 and 500 000 cSt.
  • the viscosity of this silicone may be measured according to standard ASTM D-445.
  • the non-volatile silicone oil may be selected from
  • non-phenylated silicone oils and phenylated silicone oils.
  • non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oils include polydimethylsiloxanes (dimethicone); alkyl dimethicones; vinyl methyl methicones; and also silicones modified with optionally fluorinated aliphatic groups, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups.
  • non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oils that may be mentioned include:
  • PDMSs comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are pendent and/or at the end of the silicone chain, these groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms,
  • PDMSs comprising aliphatic groups, or functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups,
  • polyalkylmethylsiloxanes optionally substituted with a fluorinated group, such as polymethyltrifluoropropyldimethylsiloxanes,
  • the non-volatile silicone oil is selected from non-volatile non-phenylated linear silicone oils.
  • the non-volatile non-phenylated linear silicone oil may be chosen especially from the silicones of formula:
  • Ri, R 2 , R 5 and R 6 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms
  • R 3 and Ri are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a vinyl radical, an amine radical or a hydroxyl radical
  • X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or an amine radical, and
  • n and p are integers chosen so as to have a fluid compound.
  • non-volatile silicone oils that may be used according to the present invention, mention may be made of those for which:
  • the substituents Ri to Re and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 500 000 cSt, such as the product sold under the name SE30 by the company General Electric, the product sold under the name AK 500000 by the company Wacker, the product sold under the name Mirasil DM 500 000 by the company Bluestar, and the product sold under the name Dow Coming 200 Fluid 500 000 cSt by the company Dow Coming,
  • the substituents Ri to R 6 and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 300 000 cSt, such as the product sold under the name Wacker Belsil DM 300 000 by the company Wacker,
  • the substituents Ri to R 6 and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 60 000 cSt, such as the product sold under the name Dow Coming 200 Fluid 60000 CS by the company Dow Coming, and the product sold under the name Wacker Belsil DM 60 000 by the company Wacker,
  • the substituents Ri to R 6 and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 350 cSt, such as the product sold under the name Dow Coming 200 Fluid 350 CS by the company Dow Coming, and
  • the substituents Ri to R 6 represent a methyl group
  • the group X represents a hydroxyl group
  • n and p are such that the viscosity is 700 cSt, such as the product sold under the name Baysilone Fluid TO.7 by the company Momentive.
  • the non-volatile silicone oil is selected from non-volatile phenylated silicone oils.
  • non-volatile phenylated silicone oils that may be mentioned include:
  • the groups R represent, independently of each other, a methyl or a phenyl, with the proviso that at least one group R represents a phenyl.
  • the phenyl silicone oil comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four, at least five or at least six,
  • the said organopolysiloxane comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four or at least five.
  • Mixtures of the phenyl organopolysiloxanes described previously may be used. Examples that may be mentioned include mixtures of triphenyl, tetraphenyl or pentaphenyl
  • -OSiMe 3 and y is 0 or ranges between 1 and 1000, and z ranges between 1 and 1000, such that compound (V) is a non-volatile oil.
  • y ranges between 1 and 1000.
  • Use may be made, for example, of trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, sold especially under the reference Belsil PDM 1000 sold by the company Wacker.
  • y is equal to 0.
  • Use may be made, for example, of phenyl trimethylsiloxy trisiloxane, sold especially under the reference Dow Coming 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid,
  • Ri to Rio independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched Ci-C 30 hydrocarbon-based radicals, m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 900, with the proviso that the sum m+n+q is other than 0; preferably, the sum m+n+q is between 1 and 100.
  • the sum m+n+p+q is between 1 and 900 and better still between 1 and 800.
  • q is equal to 0,
  • R ] to R 6 are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched Ci-C 30 hydrocarbon-based radicals,
  • n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, with the proviso that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100; preferably, Ri to R 6 , independently of each other, represent a saturated, linear or branched Ci-C 30 and especially C1-C12 hydrocarbon-based radical and in particular a methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radical; R] to R may especially be identical, and in addition may be a methyl radical;
  • n 1 or 2 or 3
  • R is a C l -C 30 alkyl radical, an aryl radical or an aralkyl radical,
  • n is an integer ranging from 0 to 100
  • radicals R of formula (VIII) and Ri to R l0 defined previously may each represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical, especially of C 2 -C 20 , in particular C 3 -Ci 6 and more particularly C 4 -C l0 , or a monocyclic or polycyclic C 6 -C l4 and especially Cio-C l3 aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical whose aryl and alkyl residues are as defined previously.
  • R of formula (VIII) and Ri to Rio may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.
  • a phenyl silicone oil of formula (VIII) with a viscosity at 25°C of between 5 and 1500 mm 2 /s (i.e. 5 to 1500 cSt), and preferably with a viscosity of between 5 and 1000 mm 2 /s (i.e. 5 to 1000 cSt) may be used.
  • phenyl silicone oils of formula (VIII) it is especially possible to use phenyl trimethicones such as DC556 from Dow Coming (22.5 cSt), the oil Silbione 70663V30 from Rhone-Poulenc (28 cSt) or diphenyl dimethicones such as Belsil oils, especially Belsil PDM1000 (1000 cSt), Belsil PDM 200 (200 cSt) and Belsil PDM 20 (20 cSt) from Wacker.
  • the values in parentheses represent the viscosities at
  • R , R 2 , R 5 and R 6 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
  • R 3 and R 4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or an aryl radical,
  • X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical,
  • n and p being chosen so as to give the oil a weight-average molecular mass of less than 200 000 g/mol, preferably less than 150 000 g/mol and more preferably less than 100 000 g/mol.
  • phenyl silicones may be chosen from phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl-trimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones,
  • the weight-average molecular weight of the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil used according to the present invention may range from 500 to 10 000 g/mol.
  • the amount of (c) non-volatile oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, more preferably 10% by weight or more, and more preferably from 20% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of (c) non-volatile oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or less, more preferably 45% by weight or less, and more preferably 40% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of (c) non-volatile oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 50% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Water)
  • composition according to the present invention may comprise water.
  • composition according to the present invention is anhydrous.
  • composition according to the present invention may comprise water in an amount of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, or the composition according to the present invention comprise no water.
  • composition according to the present invention may also include at least one optional or additional ingredient.
  • the optional or additional ingredient(s) may be selected from the group consisting of anionic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers; anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants; organic or inorganic UV filters; peptides and derivatives thereof; protein hydrolyzates; swelling agents and penetrating agents; agents for combating hair loss; anti-dandruff agents; natural or synthetic thickeners for water or oils; suspending agents; sequestering agents; dyes; sunscreen agents; vitamins or provitamins; fragrances; preservatives, co-preservatives, stabilizers; and mixtures thereof.
  • the amount of the optional or additional ingredient(s) is not limited, but may be from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.
  • composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.
  • the method and means to mix the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.
  • composition according to the present invention may be a leave-on type or rinse-off type, preferably leave-on type.
  • the composition according to the present invention may preferably be used as a cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition may be used for treating keratin fibers.
  • the keratin fibers may be hair, eyebrows, eyelashes and the like.
  • composition according to the present invention may be intended for application onto keratin fibers such as hair.
  • composition according to the present invention can be used for a cosmetic process for keratin fibers.
  • the present invention also relates to a process for keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin fibers.
  • the keratin fibers to which the composition according to the present invention has been applied can be left for an appropriate time which is required to treat the keratin fibers.
  • the time length for each treatment is not limited, but it may be from 1 minute to 10 minutes, preferably from 1 minute to 5 minutes, and more preferably from 1 minute to 3 minutes.
  • the total time for the treatments according to the present invention may be from 3 to 30 minutes, preferably from 3 to 15 minutes, and more preferably from 3 minutes to 10 minutes.
  • the keratin fibers may be treated at room temperature.
  • the keratin fibers can be heated at l5°C to 45°C, preferably 20°C to 40°C, more preferably 25°C to 35°C, and even more preferably 27°C to 35°C, before and/or during and/or after the step of applying the composition according to the present invention onto the keratin fibers.
  • the keratin fibers to which the composition according to the present invention has been applied may or may not be rinsed.
  • the process preferably a cosmetic process, according to the present invention can provide keratin fibers such as hair with improved conditioning and manageability cosmetic effects such as smoothness (e.g., smooth combing even if the keratin fibers are wet, and smooth feeling to the touch when the keratin fibers are dry), ease of running the fingers through the keratin fibers even if the keratin fibers are wet, moist feeling even if the keratin fibers are dry, less stickiness (or less greasiness) of the hair when the keratin fibers are dry, and volume reduction control (therefore, it can be easy to style the shape of the keratin fibers, due to anti-frizz properties of the composition according to the present invention).
  • volume reduction means that spreading of keratin fibers is reduced or controlled, and therefore, the style of the keratin fibers can be controlled well.
  • the process according to the present invention can provide keratin fibers such as hair with a higher level of smoothness, moisturizing, volume control and the like, as well as less stickiness, without over-greasiness.
  • the present invention also relates to the use of a volatile branched C l3-l5 alkane oil as a new substitute for volatile silicone.
  • the present invention also relates to a use of (a) at least one volatile branched C l3-l5 alkane oil
  • compositions for treating keratin fibers, preferably hair comprising (b) at least one optional additional volatile oil other than the (a) branched Ci 3-i5 alkane oil(s) and (c) at least one non-volatile oil,
  • smoothness and volume reduction effects provided by the use according to the present invention are superior to those provided by the use of a conventional volatile hydrocarbon such as isododecane and isohexadecane.
  • compositions for hair according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Tables 1 and 2.
  • the numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients are all based on“% by weight” as active raw materials.
  • Example 1 is listed in both Tables 1 and 2.
  • hair swatches (1 g, 27 cm) were prepared for each experiment.
  • the hair swatch was washed with clarifying shampoo and then placed on a hot plate at 30°C.
  • 0.4 g of each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 was applied on the hair swatch with a brush.
  • the hair swatch was then kept at 24°C and under 40% relative humidity for 30 minutes, and then dried with a blow drier under ambient conditions to obtain a treated hair swatch.
  • the treated hair swatch was placed on a plate, and its root side was fixed on the plate with a hair clip.
  • the smoothness of the treated hair swatch was measured by scanning the swatch from root to tip with a sensor (Handy Rub Tester (type TL701) from Trinity Lab).
  • Table 1 shows that the composition according to Example 1 can provide hair with the minimum COF, which means the best smoothness among the compositions according to Examples 1 and Comparative Examples 1-3, while the compositions according to
  • Comparative Examples 1-3 provide hair with less smoothness. (Effective Volume)
  • hair swatches (1 g, 27 cm) were prepared for each experiment.
  • the hair swatch was washed with clarifying shampoo and then placed on a hot plate at 30°C.
  • 0.4 g of each of the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 was applied on the hair swatch by a brush.
  • the hair swatch was then kept at 24°C and under 40% relative humidity for 30 minutes, and then dried with a blow drier under ambient conditions to obtain a treated hair swatch.
  • the volume of the treated hair swatch was measured by taking an image with a camera (Powershot SX620 HS from Canon). Each of the dried hair swatches was hung in front of a white background (backlight) sheet and the image of the hair swatch was obtained by the camera. With the help of customized image analysis software, the obtained image was converted into a gray-scale image, and the pixels of the gray-scale image were counted to measure the total volume area of the hair swatches (fixed calibration). In order to take into consideration the influence of the three dimensional volume of the hair swatch, 8 pictures (images) were taken with a regular rotation of the hair swatch of 45 degrees each, and the values of the volume areas were averaged. The number of volume areas was then calculated as the effective volume.
  • the measurement was carried out 3 times for one treated hair swatch. The same procedure was conducted with two more hair swatches to obtain 9 results in total for one composition, and the mean value was calculated for each composition. A lower score indicates that a better volume reduction effect was exerted.
  • Table 1 shows that the composition according to Example 1 can provide less volume to hair as compared to the compositions according to Comparative Examples 1-3. Thus, the composition according to Example 1 can more effectively reduce the volume of hair, which means better volume reduction or volume control effects, than the compositions according to Comparative Examples 1-3.
  • the results shown in Table 1 demonstrate that the use of a volatile branched Ci 3-i s alkane oil can provide better volume reduction or volume control effects than the composition according to Comparative Examples 1-3 which does not include any volatile branched Ci 3-i5 alkane oil.
  • Table 2 also shows that the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 can provide less volume to hair as compared to the composition according to Comparative Example 4. Thus, the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 can more effectively reduce the volume of hair, which means better volume reduction or volume control effects, than the composition according to Comparative Example 4.
  • the results shown in Table 2 demonstrate that the use of 30% by weight or more of a volatile branched C l3 -i5 alkane oil relative to the total weight of the volatile oil(s) in the composition can provide better volume reduction or volume control effects than the composition according to Comparative Example 4 which includes less than 30% by weight of volatile branched Ci 3-i 5 alkane oil relative to the total weight of the volatile oil(s) in the composition.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition pour traiter des fibres de kératine, de préférence des cheveux, comprenant : (a) au moins une huile d'alcane en C13-15 ramifié volatile ; (b) au moins une huile volatile supplémentaire facultative autre que (a) la/les huile(s) d'alcane ramifié en C13-15 ; et (c) au moins une huile non volatile, la quantité de (a) la/les huile(s) d'alcane en C13-15 étant de 30 % en poids ou plus par rapport au poids total de (a) la/les huile(s) d'alcane en C13-15 ramifié et de (b) la/les huile(s) volatile(s) supplémentaire(s) facultative(s). Une huile d'alcane en C13-15 volatile peut être utilisée en tant que nouveau substitut de silicone volatile. La composition selon la présente invention peut produire des fibres de kératine ayant des effets de lissage et de réduction de volume qui sont meilleurs que ceux produits par une composition comprenant un substitut conventionnel, tel que l'isododécane et l'isohexadécane, pour un silicone volatil, à la place de l'huile d'alcane en C13-15 ramifié volatile dans la composition selon la présente invention.
PCT/JP2019/010722 2018-04-06 2019-03-08 Composition pour fibres de kératine comprenant une huile d'alcane en c13-15 ramifié volatile WO2019193949A1 (fr)

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WO2023194511A1 (fr) * 2022-04-05 2023-10-12 Biosynthis Composition pour le traitement cosmetique des fibres keratiniques
US11931433B2 (en) 2020-02-28 2024-03-19 Church & Dwight Co., Inc. Dry shampoo composition

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