Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
  • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
  • A61Q1/06—Lipsticks
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
  • A61K8/0229—Sticks
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
  • A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
  • A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/10—General cosmetic use
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
  • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes

Definitions

• the invention relates to the field of cosmetic products, and more particularly to solid cosmetic compositions of matte and intense color appearance such as matte and intense lipstick sticks.
• lip sticks as a means of coloring the lips has grown rapidly, so that lipsticks are now widely used cosmetics.
• a cosmetically acceptable lipstick should spread easily, be of homogeneous color and have a melting point higher than the body temperature. Moreover, it must give the lips a smooth but non-greasy appearance and must keep its consistency without the phenomena of exudation, oozing, rupture or disintegration occur.
• a lipstick must not only have the qualities mentioned above, but above all impart to the lips a smooth and creamy sensation and protect them from drying out or cracks. It is particularly difficult to obtain such a smooth and creamy sensation using lipsticks having a luster or reduced gloss, namely a matte appearance.
• matte lipsticks contain various clays and silicas to achieve a matte appearance. The use of clays and silicas leads to a hard stick which becomes ever drier and harder as the solids content increases. Moreover, when applying on the lips of such a matte lipstick we obtain a sensation of dryness. This therefore results in a certain need to achieve a lipstick that ensures a creamy application while allowing a matte appearance, which until now was inseparable from a dry texture.
• the object of the present invention is first of all to provide a composition of lipstick having a matt and intense color appearance and a homogeneous and light texture and which remains so over time.
• the present invention is characterized in that the matte lipstick composition comprises at least one structuring agent, at least one oil, at least one coloring agent, and at least one particular filler as a matting agent.
• the subject of the invention is an omposition of matt lipstick comprising at least one structuring agent, at least one oil, at least one coloring agent and at least one particular filler as a matting agent.
• the particular filler as a matting agent is selected from particles having a specific surface area of less than 30 m 2 / g, preferably less than 20 m 2 / g, even more preferably less than 10 m 2 / g and even more advantageously less than 5 m 2 / g.
• a matte-looking lipstick composition comprising at least one structuring agent, at least one oil, at least one coloring agent and at least one particular filler as a matting agent, characterized in that the particular filler as a matting agent is selected from magnesium carbonate powders having a specific surface area of less than 10 m 2 / g and even more preferably less than 5 m 2 / g.
• a matte-looking lipstick composition comprising at least one structuring agent, at least one oil, at least one coloring agent and at least one particular filler as mattifying agent.
• the particular filler as a matting agent is selected from magnesium carbonate powders
• said lipstick composition of the invention spread on a contrast card having a brightness value measured at 85 ° using a glossmeter under the name micro-TRI-gloss or PICOGLOSS 503 sold by the BYK company of less than 10
• said composition having a hardness measured at 20 ° C using a texturometer sold under the name "TA -XT Plus Microstable System "by the company Swantech less than 300 g (grams) and this 1 day after manufacture and after a storage of 1 day, 15 days, 1 month and 2 months in an oven at 45 ° C.
• the particular load used as a matting agent By charge is meant solid particles intended to be dispersed in the medium of the composition and which remain insoluble in this medium, whatever the temperature at which the composition is manufactured and stored.
• the particular filler used as the matting agent of the invention is a particle characterized by its size, shape and specific surface.
• the size of the particular charge used measured by taking the farthest ends of the particle is between 1 micron ( ⁇ ) and 30 microns ( ⁇ ). The smaller the size, the finer the finish.
• the shape of the particular filler used is lamellar or cubic or spherical or rounded if it is smaller than 10 microns. On the other hand, when its size is greater than 10 microns, its shape is preferably spherical or rounded to avoid specular reflection and therefore a satin or shiny effect.
• the specific surface area of the particular filler used is less than 30 m 2 / g, preferably the specific surface area is less than 20 m 2 / g, even more preferably the specific surface area is less than 10 m 2 / g and even more so. more advantageous the specific surface is less than 5 m / g.
• the specific surface measurements of the mattifying charges can be carried out using a BET tristar IL measuring device.
• the method is based on the adsorption of the nitrogen molecules on the surface and in the pores of the powder sample. at low temperature (nitrogen liquefaction temperature: 77 ° K).
• the specific surface is expressed in m 2 / g.
• magnesium carbonate More specifically, the particular filler is chosen from magnesium carbonate powders, in particular basic magnesium carbonate of formula (MgCO 3 ) 3 Mg (OH) 2.3 H 2 or of formula (MgCO 3 ) 4 .Mg (OH ) 2 .5H 2 O or the normal magnesium carbonate of formula (MgCO 3 ) .xH 2 0.
• the magnesium carbonate marketed by the company ICL Industrial products under the name of "basic magnesium carbonate”.
• the particles are present in sizes of between 5 microns and 25 microns, they have the shape of sand roses and have a specific surface area of about 4 m 2 / g.
• diatomaceous earths examples include diatomaceous earths.
• the diatomaceous earth marketed by Imerys under the name Imercare® 03D diatom.
• the particles are present in sizes between 2 microns and 5 microns, they have various shapes and their specific surface is about 12 m 2 / g.
• Diatomaceous earths marketed by Imerys under the name “diatom Imercare 400D” are also present.
• the particles are present in sizes of between 15 microns and 25 microns, they have various shapes and their specific surface area is as follows: about 19 m7g.
• fillers include microcrystalline cellulose.
• Vivapur® CS 4FM the one marketed by Rettenmaier under the name Vivapur® CS 4FM.
• the particles are present at sizes between 0.9 microns and 9.4 microns and their specific surface area is about 5.7 m 2 / g.
• there is also a bamboo powder We can mention in particular that marketed by Rossow under the name Sencocel® BC20.
• Particular fillers selected from basic magnesium carbonate, diatomaceous earths, microcrystalline cellulose, or a mixture thereof are preferred.
• the particular filler used as a matting agent can be used as it is or can be surface-treated with a hydrophobic agent.
• hydrophobic agents that may be mentioned in particular are silanes, silicones, fatty acid soaps, C 8 fluoroalcohol phosphates, acrylate / dimethicone copolymers, mixed copolymers C 9 fluoroalcohol phosphates / silicones, lecithins, carnauba wax, polyethylene, chitosan and optionally acylated amino acids such as lauroyl lysine, disodium stearoyl glutamate and aluminum acyl glutamate.
• the particular filler used as matting agent is present in a proportion of between 8% and 20% and preferably between 10% and 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. oil
• oil means a compound which is liquid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and which, when it is introduced at a rate of at least 1% by weight in water at 25 ° C. C is not at all soluble in water, or soluble to less than 10% by weight, based on the weight of oil introduced into the water.
• oil also includes lipophilic fats which are capable of undergoing a reversible liquid / solid change and have an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state, but which are different from waxes by the fact they contain, at a temperature of 23 ° C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
• a compound of this type is in particular a mixture of sterol esters, such as the mixture of cholesterol and lanosterol ester available from the manufacturer CRODA under the trade name Super Sterol Ester®.
• non-volatile oil means an oil which has a boiling point generally greater than 300 ° C. at 760 mmHg (101325 Pa) and which has little or no vapor pressure.
• the non-volatile oils may especially be chosen from non-volatile silicone oils, non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof.
• silicon oil means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.
• Non-volatile silicone oils that may especially be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes containing at least 8 silicon atoms, polyalkylmethylsiloxanes whose alkyl chain contains from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, and oils identified by the INCI name phenyl trimethicone.
• hydrocarbon oil is meant an oil containing only hydrogen and carbon atoms.
• hydrocarbons such as squalane, phytosqualane, polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, (poly) esters
• synthetic polymers also known as "ester oils” and (poly) ethers, in particular the (poly) esters of C 6 -C 20 acids and of C 6 -C 20 alcohols, advantageously branched, such as isononyl isononanoate; vegetable oils; branched and / or unsaturated fatty acids; branched and / or unsaturated fatty alcohols such as octyldodecanol; or a mixture thereof.
• ester oil means a mono-, di-, tri- or tetraester oil.
• the ester oils are obtained by reacting a mono-, di-, tri- and more generally a polyol with a monodistrict and more generally a polycarboxylic acid, said reagents being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated , aliphatic or aromatic, and may optionally include alkoxylated groups.
• the ester oils may in particular be hydroxylated.
• the non-volatile ester oil may comprise from 18 to 70 carbon atoms.
• the non-volatile ester oil may especially be chosen from: monoesters comprising 18 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular monoesters of formula R 1 COOR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 6 to 20 carbon atoms carbon and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, especially a branched chain containing from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, for example purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate or alkyl benzoates.
• the nonvolatile oil used in the present invention is preferably a low gloss oil.
• a low-gloss oil is called an oil whose refractive index is less than 1.46, preferably less than 1.45, and even more preferably less than 1.44.
• the refractive index is measured using an ABBE refractometer paralux ref 60-
• low-gloss oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of synthetic polyesters and (poly) ethers, in particular C6-C20 acid (poly) esters and of C6-C20 alcohols, advantageously branched, such as isononyl isononanoate; di (C 6 -C 20) alkylcarbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold by BASF under the name Cetiol CC; branched and / or unsaturated fatty acids; polyol polyesters, in particular (di) pentaerythritol, such as pentaerythritol tetraoctanoate, silicone oils such as linear polydimethylsiloxanes with a viscosity of between 5 cSt and 100 cSt (centistokes); or a mixture thereof.
• synthetic polyesters and (poly) ethers in particular C6-C20 acid (poly) esters and of C6-C20
• low-gloss oils that can be used in the invention
• the oils of low viscosity are preferably used.
• low viscosity means a viscosity of less than 1000 Pa.s, preferably less than 500 Pa.s, even more preferably less than 100 Pa.s and even more advantageously less than 50 Pa.s.
• the viscosity is measured using a Gemini rheometer sold by Malvern Instruments. A measurement is made in rotation in constrained sweep from 0.0 lPa to 1000Pa. A quilt system with coaxial cylinders of 25mm diameter (C25) with a 150 micron air gap at a temperature of 20 ° C is used. The value indicated for each oil is the average obtained on several points of the plateau.
• low gloss and low viscosity oils include isononyl isononanoate, dicaprylyl carbonate or a mixture thereof.
• an additional non-volatile oil can be used to provide additional properties to the composition of the invention.
• diisostearyl malate can be added because it makes it possible to obtain a good dispersion of the pigments.
• the non-volatile oil is chosen from isononyl isononanoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, diisostearyl malate or a mixture thereof.
• the oil introduced into the composition according to the invention is a mixture of isononyl isononanoate, dicaprylyl carbonate and diisostearyl malate.
• the oil may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content of between 40% and 80% by weight, preferably between 45% and 70% by weight, more preferably between 50% and 60% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
• the composition does not contain (0%) or very little (maximum 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition) of volatile oil.
• volatile oil an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
• the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure of between 0.13 Pa and 40 000 Pa (0.001 to 300 mm Hg), preferably between 1.3 Pa and 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more preferably still between 1.3 Pa and 1300 Pa (0.01 to 1000 mm). of Hg).
• Volatile oils include volatile silicone oils and / or volatile hydrocarbon oils.
• the volatile silicone oils optionally used in the compositions of the invention are linear or cyclic, in particular having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, optionally alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and have a viscosity, at room temperature. ambient, less than 5 cSt.
• volatile silicone oils mention may be made more particularly of hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, cyclotetradimethylsiloxane, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, cyclohexadimethylsiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, hexylheptamethyltrisiloxane and the like.
• octylheptamethyltrisiloxane decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane or a mixture thereof.
• volatile hydrocarbon oil mention may be made more particularly of a short-chain hydrocarbon oil, volatile linear alkanes such as for example described in document FR2933865 incorporated by reference.
• short chain hydrocarbon oil By way of examples of short chain hydrocarbon oil (s), mention may be made especially of that (s) chosen from the group comprising isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, dodecane or a of their mixtures.
• Emogreen L15 such as those marketed by Seppic under the name Emogreen L15,
• C12-14 such as those marketed by Biosynthis under the name Vegelight 1214LC.
• C 9-12 alkane such as those marketed by Daito under the name Makigreen
• the structuring agent The structuring agent
• the structuring agent of the oily phase comprises at least one wax and / or at least one silicone resin and / or a lipophilic gelling agent.
• the term "wax” refers to a liquid / solid reversible change fat having a melting temperature above 30 ° C and generally below 110 ° C, which is liquid under the preparation conditions of the composition and which exhibits an crystalline anisotropic solid state.
• lipophilic gelling agent denotes a substance capable of solidifying or gelatinizing the oil introduced into the composition of the invention.
• the structuring agent is a mixture of at least one wax and at least one lipophilic gelling agent.
• the structuring agent is a mixture of at least one wax and at least one silicone resin.
• the structuring agent is a mixture of at least two waxes.
• the wax suitable for the cosmetic compositions of the invention comprises at least one polar wax and / or at least one apolar wax.
• polar wax is meant a wax comprising at least one heteroatom such as oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus.
• the polar wax may be chosen from the group comprising beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, cotton wax, rice bran wax, bay wax, wax of Chinese insect, montan wax, lanolin and its derivatives alcohols, acetylated, esterified, polyethoxylated, kapok wax, sugar cane wax, hexyl laurate, jojoba wax, shellac wax, l polyethoxylated cholesterol ether, synthetic beeswax sold by Koster Keunen under the trade name Kester Wax K82H, or a mixture thereof.
• plant ester waxes chosen from the group comprising the mixture of jojoba esters, of polyglycerin-3, of Acacia decurrens flower wax and of sunflower seed wax, said mixture being marketed by Gattefosse under the trade name Acticire®, the jojoba esters marketed by Floratech under the trade name Floraesters 60 or Floraest
• apolar wax is meant a hydrocarbon wax and / or a silicone wax.
• apolar hydrocarbon wax means a wax comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms and not including heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus.
• suitable hydrocarbon apolar waxes in the compositions of the invention include polyethylene wax, sold by New Phase Technologies under the name Performalene 400 (P400) or by Jeen International Corporation under the name Jeenate 3H, a linear polyethylene blend. high molecular weight and ethylene / propylene copolymer, sold by Safic-Alcan under the name Lipwax® PZ80-20, a synthetic wax marketed by Sasol under the name Sasol Wax C80, synthetic waxes and vegetable waxes, such as a mixture of synthetic wax and carnauba wax (Copernica cerifera) marketed by Strahl & Pitsch under the name Smart wax 202, a mixture of synthetic wax, Candelilla wax and carnauba wax (Copernica cerifera) marketed by Strahl & Pitsch under the name Smartwax 7743S, Fischer Tropsch waxes marketed by Cirebelle under the name Cirebelle 303, or a mixture thereof.
• polyethylene wax sold by New
• apolar silicone wax means a wax comprising a silicon heteroatom.
• Suitable silicone apolar waxes in the compositions of the invention include C20-24 alkyl dimethicone, sold by Siltech under the name Silwax D2024, C24-28 alkyl dimethicone, marketed by Evonik Industries AG under the name Abil Wax, or one of their mixtures.
• the wax is chosen from the group comprising beeswax, polyethylene wax, marketed by New Phase Technologies under the name Performalene 400 (P400) or by Jeen International Corporation under the name Jeenate 3H, a mixture of high molecular weight linear polyethylene and ethylene / propylene copolymer, marketed by Safic-Alcan under the name Lipwax® PZ80-20, a synthetic wax marketed by Sasol under the name Sasol Wax C80 a mixture of high molecular weight linear polyethylene and ethylene / propylene copolymer, marketed by Safic-Alcan under the name Lipwax® PZ80-20.
• the structuring agent is a wax chosen from beeswax, synthetic wax, polyethylene wax or a mixture thereof.
• the wax is present in the cosmetic composition of the invention in a content of between 10% and 30%, preferably between 15% and 25%, the percentages being percentages by weight per relative to the total weight of the composition.
• silicone resins By way of example of silicone resins, mention may be made of: siloxysilicates, which may be trimethylsiloxysilicate of formula
• TMS resins As siloxysilicate resins, there may be mentioned trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS) resins optionally in the form of powders. Such resins are sold under the reference SR1000 by the company General Electric or under the reference TMS 803 by the company Wacker. Mention may also be made of timethylsiloxysilicate resins sold in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, sold under the name "KF-7312J” by the company Shin-Etsu, "DC 749", “DC 593” by the company Dow Corning.
• solvent such as cyclomethicone
• the lipophilic gelling agents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention may be organic or inorganic, polymeric or molecular lipophilic gelling agents.
• inorganic lipophilic gelling agent mention may be made of fumed silica optionally treated with hydrophobic surface, the particle size of which is less than 1 ⁇ . It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a decrease in the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.
• the hydrophobic groups may be: trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are called "silica silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000).
• silica is by examples sold under the references Aerosil R812® by the company Degussa, CAB-O-SIL TS-530® by CABOT, dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane.
• Silicas thus treated are known as "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R972®, and Aerosil R974® by the company DEGUSSA, CAB-O-SIL TS-610® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720® by CABOT.
• the hydrophobic fumed silica has in particular a particle size that can be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm.
• Polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, partially or fully crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes of three-dimensional structure, such as those marketed under the names KSG6®, KSG16® and KSG18® by the company SHIN-ETSU, by Trefil E-505C® and Trefil E-506C® by DOW-CORNING, Gransil SR-CYC®, SR DMF10®, SR-DC556®, SR 5CYC gel®, SR DMF 10 gel® and SR DC 556 gel® by GRANT INDUSTRIES , SF 1204® and JK 113® by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC; ethylcellulose such as that sold under the name Ethocel® by Dow Chemical; galactomannans having from one to six, and in particular from two to four, hydroxyl groups per sac, substituted by a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, such as guar gum alkylated by C1-C6 alky
• polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agent consists of polyamide resins or poly (ester-amide) resins, such as ester-terminated polyamides.
• EPA ester-terminated poly (ester-amides), tertiary amide-terminated polyamides (ATPA), polyalkyleneoxy-terminated polyamides (PAOPA) or polyether polyamides (PEPA).
• ester-terminated polyamides are those identified by the name
• ester-terminated poly examples are those identified by the INCI name polyamide-8 which are "ethylenediamine bis-stearyl ethylenediamine / neopentylglycol / stearyl dibenzoate copolymers" and available, for example under the trade name Oloecraft® LP-20-PA-MV from Croda.
• tertiary amide terminated polyamides are those identified by the INCI name "Ethylenediamine / Bis-Di-hydrogenated hydrogenated dimer diilinoate copolymer".
• PAOPA polyalkyleneoxy-terminated polyamides
• polyether polyamides examples are those identified by the INCI name Polyamide-6 and available, for example, under the name Sylvaclear® PE400V from Arizona Chemical.
• N-acyl glutamic acid diamides Another type of polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agent is N-acyl glutamic acid diamides. It may especially be mentioned an N-acyl glutamic acid diamide having a straight-chain alkyl group such as dibutyl lauroyl glutamide and an N-acyl glutamic acid diamide having a branched chain alkyl group, such as dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide . Dibutyl lauroyl glutamide is commercially available as GP-1 and dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide is commercially available as EB-21, and both are marketed by Ajinomoto.
• Another type of polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agent consists of dextrin esters. Esters of dextrin and fatty acids, such as dextrin palmitate, may be mentioned.
• Another type of polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agent consists of sucrose esters. Mention may be made of sucrose esters of fatty acids, such as sucrose tetrastearate triacetate available under the trade name Sisterna® A10E-C from the company Sisterna.
• polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agent consists of glyceryl esters.
• the diester of eicosadioic acid and of glycerol esterified with behenic acid may be mentioned. It is in particular available under the trade name NOMCORT HK-G from NISSHIN OILLIO.
• composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.5 to 40% by weight of structuring agents other than waxes relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 30% or even better, from 5 to 30%.
• composition according to the invention may further comprise a pasty compound which may advantageously be chosen from: lanolin and its derivatives polymeric silicone compounds or non-polymeric fluorinated compounds or non-vinyl polymers, in particular:
• alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having a C 8 -C 30 alkyl group
• esters it is possible to use, in particular, the esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular the diglycerol esters, in particular the adipic acid and glycerol condensates, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, especially in the image of those marketed under the brand name
• ester aliphatic esters resulting from the esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with an aliphatic carboxylic acid such as cetyl lactate marketed under the name Cérphyl 28 by the company ISP
• polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds or a mixture thereof.
• composition according to the invention may comprise a total content of pasty compounds of between 1 and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular between 4% and 30%, more particularly between 5% and 20%.
• the lipstick composition may also contain other fillers.
• the particles which constitute it may be porous or non-porous, and may be in various forms, in particular in platelet, spherical or oblong form, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example, sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.).
• the additional filler may be chosen from lauroyl lysine, boron nitride and silicone microbeads such as those marketed under the name Tospearl by Toshiba, for example, precipitated calcium carbonate, hydroxyapatite and polyorganosiloxane particles. elastomers, glass or ceramic microcapsules, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, magnesium aluminum silicate such as that sold under the trade name Neusilin ULF2 by the company Fuji Chemical Industry, starch, a clay or a mixture thereof.
• starch a clay or a mixture thereof is preferred.
• the starch may be chosen for example from a starch of rice, tapioca, potato or maize.
• Rice starch in particular that of INCI name distarch phosphate marketed under the name "Rice P04 Natural” by Agrana Starch, is preferred. It absorbs very little oils and has a matte appearance and provides a softness to the composition of the invention which avoids the creasing side of the particular filler as a matting agent.
• the starch may be present in the composition of lipstick in an amount of between 2.0% to 10.0% by weight, preferably between 6.0 and 10.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the clay can be natural or synthetic. It is rendered lipophilic by treatment with an alkyl ammonium salt such as a C10 to C22 ammonium chloride, for example di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride. It may be chosen from bentonites, in particular hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, and vermiculites. Preferably, the clay is chosen from hectorites. By way of example of hectorite, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Bentone 38V CG by the company ELEMENTIS SPECIALTIES (INCI name disteardimonium hectorite).
• It has the advantage of reinforcing the matifying effect while having a role of rheology modifier. It may be present in a proportion of between 0.1% and 4% and preferably between 0.5% and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• composition according to the invention may contain various ingredients, such as a coloring agent, a UV filter, or a mixture thereof.
• the coloring agent may especially be chosen from water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes, pigments, pearlescent agents, lacquers or a mixture thereof. These coloring agents may optionally be surface-treated with a hydrophobic agent such as silanes, silicones, fatty acid soaps, C9- 15 fluoroalcohol phosphates, acrylate / dimethicone, mixed copolymers C ⁇ s fluoroalcohol phosphates / silicones, lecithins, wax carnauba, polyethylene, chitosan and optionally acylated amino acids such as lauroyl lysine, disodium stearoyl glutamate and aluminum acyl glutamate.
• the pigments can be mineral or organic, natural or synthetic.
• inorganic pigments are in particular titanium dioxide, iron oxides, zinc or chromium, manganese violet, ultramarines, ferric ferrocyanide called Prussian blue, as well as composite pigments and goniochromatic pigments, pearls , interferential, photochromic or thermochromic, without this list being exhaustive.
• organic pigments examples include carbon black, D & C type pigments, cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum lakes, or diketopyrrolopyrrole (DPP). ) described in EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and WO-A-96/08537.
• the nacres can be chosen from those conventionally present in make-up products, such as mica / titanium dioxide. Alternatively, it may be nacres based on mica / silica / titanium dioxide, based on synthetic fluorphlogopite / titanium dioxide (® SUNSHINE from Maprecos), sodium calcium borosilicate / titanium dioxide (REFLECKS® ENGELHARD ) or calcium aluminum borosilicate / silica / titanium dioxide (RONASTAR ® from MERCK).
• the composition according to the invention when it contains one or more pigments, also contains at least one dispersant such as diisostearyl malate.
• the coloring agents are present in the composition in a content of between 5% and 8%, the percentages being percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the UV filters may especially be chosen from organic and inorganic filters or a mixture thereof.
• organic filters there may be mentioned in particular dibenzoylmethane derivatives (including butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane), cinnamic acid derivatives (including ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate), salicylates, para-aminobenzoic acids, ⁇ , ⁇ '-diphenylacrylates, benzophenones, benzylidene camphor derivatives, phenylbenzimidazoles, triazines, phenylbenzotriazoles and anthranilic derivatives.
• dibenzoylmethane derivatives including butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane
• cinnamic acid derivatives including ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate
• salicylates including para-aminobenzoic acids, ⁇ , ⁇ '-diphenylacrylates
• mineral oxide based filters in the form of pigments or nanopigments, coated or not, and in particular based on titanium dioxide or zinc oxide.
• the composition of the invention may also contain vegetable butters or butters of synthetic origin. In all cases they are chosen to avoid bringing shine. It is preferred to use butters of matte appearance such as mango butter for example.
• composition according to the invention may also contain one or more sweetening agents such as sorbitol, sucrose, xylitol, acesulfame K and sodium saccharinate; antioxidants such as alkyl esters or phosphorylated ascorbic acid, or tocopherol and its esters; sequestering agents such as EDTA salts; pH adjusters; conservatives; perfumes ; vitamins ; moisturizing agents; or a mixture thereof.
• sweetening agents such as sorbitol, sucrose, xylitol, acesulfame K and sodium saccharinate
• antioxidants such as alkyl esters or phosphorylated ascorbic acid, or tocopherol and its esters
• sequestering agents such as EDTA salts
• pH adjusters conservatives
• perfumes vitamins
• moisturizing agents or a mixture thereof.
• the lipstick composition advantageously has a matte appearance and a smooth and creamy texture.
• the matte appearance of the lipstick composition is evidenced by a measure of gloss.
• the lipstick composition of the invention spread on a contrast map with a white background to a thickness of 500 microns thanks to an automatic spreader has a gloss value measured at 85 ° using a gloss meter under the name micro-TRI-gloss or PICOGLOSS 503 sold by BYK less than 30, preferably less than 20, even more preferably less than 10.
• the value of the gloss is obtained by the average of 3 measurements taken at three points different from the contrast card.
• composition of the invention is that its texture is homogeneous and creamy and that it remains over time. This property of stability of the texture over time is measured by a measurement of hardness.
• the cosmetic composition of the invention as defined above can be further characterized in that it has a hardness of less than 300 g (grams) and this 1 day after manufacture and after a storage of 1 day, 15 days, 1 month and 2 months in an oven at 45 ° C.
• the hardness of the composition which is expressed in grams (g), is determined by measuring the compression force measured at 20 ° C. using a texturometer sold under the name "TA-XT Plus Microstable System". by Swantech.
• the texturometer is equipped with a stainless steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm moving at the measuring speed of lmm / s and penetrating the composition to a depth of 3 mm.
• the value of the hardness is the measured compression force, divided by the surface of the texturometer cylinder in contact with the composition.
• the samples are cast hot and to the brim in a round petri dish of size 60 mm radius and 15 mm height.
• the samples thus prepared are stored for 24 hours to 48 hours at 20 ° C before taking the measurement.
• the present invention also relates to a lipstick stick comprising:
• This other aspect of the invention is characterized in that a matte lipstick composition is prepared by mixing at least one particular filler as a matting agent associated with at least one oil and at least one agent. structuring.
• a lipstick composition obtained according to the process of the invention advantageously has a dull appearance and a homogeneous and creamy texture.
• the present invention also aims to provide a process for the preparation of a matte lipstick composition comprising the following steps:
• the pigments are ground beforehand in part of the oily ingredients. Then, the polymeric structuring ingredients or waxes and the rest of the oily ingredients are melted separately and the matting agents and additional fillers and then the ground pigments are added to the above mixture with continuous stirring. Finally, we can add appropriate assets or fragrances. It is then poured hot in molds. Then it is demolded after cooling.
• the value of the brightness is obtained by the average of 3 measurements taken at three different points of the contrast card and indicated in the table 3.
• the hardness of the composition which is expressed in grams (g), is determined by measuring the compression force measured at 20 ° C. using a texturometer sold under the name "TA-XT Plus Microstable System". by Swantech.
• the texturometer is equipped with a stainless steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm moving at the measuring speed of lmm / s and penetrating the composition to a depth of 3 mm.
• the value of the hardness is the measured compression force, divided by the surface of the texturometer cylinder in contact with the composition.
• compositions of Example 1 and Example 2 with a surface-specific magnesium carbonate meeting the criteria of the invention have a homogeneous and creamy texture characterized by its hardness which remains stable at a value of less than 300 g (grams ) over time even after storage for 15 days, 1 month and 2 months at 45 ° C.
• compositions of Example 3 with a surface-specific diatomaceous earth meeting the criteria of the invention have a homogeneous and creamy texture characterized by its hardness which remains stable at a value of less than 300 g (grams) over the course of time after storage 15 days, 1 month and 2 months at 45 ° C.
• compositions of Example 4 with a microcrystalline cellulose of specific surface meeting the criteria of the invention have a homogeneous and creamy texture characterized by its hardness which remains stable at a value of less than 300 g (grams) over time even after storage 15 days, 1 month and 2 months at 45 ° C.
• compositions of Examples 5 and 6 which are comparative with a surface-specific magnesium carbonate which does not meet the criteria of the invention exhibit a much harder texture from manufacture, with a value greater than 400 g (grams) and which increases in hardness over time after storage 15 days, 1 month and 2 months at 45 ° C.

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• 2017
  • 2017-10-05 FR FR1759358A patent/FR3072027B1/fr active Active
• 2018
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