Classifications

• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D03—WEAVING
  • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
  • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
  • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
  • D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
  • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
  • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
  • D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
  • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
  • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
  • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
  • D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D03—WEAVING
  • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
  • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
  • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
  • D03D15/208—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
  • D03D15/217—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based natural from plants, e.g. cotton
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
  • D04B—KNITTING
  • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
  • D04B1/02—Pile fabrics or articles having similar surface features
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
  • D04B—KNITTING
  • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
  • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
  • D04B1/18—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
  • D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
  • D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
  • D10B2201/02—Cotton
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
  • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
  • D10B2401/22—Physical properties protective against sunlight or UV radiation

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a composition for producing a fabric comprising rose fiber.
• Functional textiles are made of fabrics with functional benefits such as waterproof, windproof, UV-protecting, breathable or thermo-regulating properties.
• Conventional functional textiles that are UV-protecting, breathable and thermo-regulating contain textured synthetic yarns. The production of such fabrics is neither sustainable nor are the fabrics biodegradable.
• Rose fibers are an alternative of plant origin. Rose fibers are short protein-enriched cellulose fibers which have a silky shine, a very smooth texture and functional benefits such as thermoregulation, UV-protection, perspiration and moisture absorption. Furthermore, rose fibers reflect infrared-irradiation and react to the pH of the skin. For producing fabrics comprising yarns made of rose fiber, the rose fiber yarns have to be mixed with other yarns. Hereby, several obstacles, which include pilling effects and detaching of rose fibers from the fabric, had to be overcome. Furthermore, rose fibers tend to show high shrinkage after washing.
• the problem underlying the present invention is to provide a fabric comprising a yarn made of rose fibers. This problem is solved by the subject-matter of the independent claims.
• yarn refers to spun yarn, filament yarn, texturized yarn.
• a yarn may be produced from one fiber type (e.g. 100 % cotton) or from more than one fiber type (blends, e.g. 50% cotton / 50% bamboo or 30% nylon / 27% cotton / 24% acrylic / 10% silk / 9% linen).
• rose fiber refers to a protein-enriched cellulose fiber, particularly a blend of cellulose and rice protein. Synonyms for "rose fiber” are “rousi fiber” and “rose fiber viscose”.
• the raw material of rose fiber is derived from plants. It is a kind of modified protein plant fiber with excellent soft hand feel.
• the protein is rice protein. It is a biodegradable, anti-UV, environmental friendly fiber. Since it contains protein, it is good to skin health, and after dyeing the color is very bright and pleasing. The handfeel is fairly soft like the surface of the rose leaf, so it called rose fiber.
• rose fiber does not necessarily have to be derived from rose bushes. Rose fiber is produced by viscose spinning.
• Rose fiber is a fiber comprising mainly cellulose and approximately 5 % protein, particularly rose fiber is a fiber purchased from Chinese New Fiber Alliance Association as discussed below. Rose fibers are functional/active fibers that are characterized by functional benefits such as thermoregulation, UV-protection, perspiration and moisture absorption. Furthermore, rose fibers reflect infrared-irradiation and react to the pH of the skin.
• rose fiber yarn refers to a spun yarn consisting of rose fiber.
• Examples for rose fiber yarns are summarized in Table 1 .
• Rose fiber yarn for producing the fabrics according to the invention were purchased from Chinese New Fiber Alliance Association, Overseas marketing & sales: SHANGHAI TENBRO BAMBOO TEXTILE CO., LTD, Second floor, building A, lane 685 jinzhong road, Shanghai, China. (www.tenbro.com).
• Table 2 and Table 3 available specifications of rose fibers and physical indices are listed.
• Table 2 Specifications of rose fibers of the SHANGHAI TENBRO BAMBOO TEXTILE CO., LTD.
• Table 3 Physical Index of rose fibers of the SHANGHAI TENBRO BAMBOO TEXTILE CO., LTD.
• count refers to the linear density of a fiber or yarn. Units for count are tex (mass in grams per 1000 meter), dtex (decitex, mass in grams per 10000 meter), Ne (Number english) or Nm (Number metric). Ne is defined as the number of hanks (840 yd or 770 m) of skein material that weigh 1 pound (0.45 kg). Nm is defined as the length in meters per 1 gram.
• tenacity refers to the force required to break the fiber in relation to its linear density. The unit for tenacity is Newton [N] / tex. The unit "tex” refers to the linear mass density of fibers defined as the mass in grams per 1000 meter.
• the term “elongation at break” refers to the elongation of the fiber that is necessary for breaking the fiber. "Breaking extension” is a synonymous term for "elongation at break”. The elongation is expressed in percent [%] of the initial fiber length.
• the term “structural yarn” refers to yarns that contribute to the durability and tear resistance of textiles. Structural yarns consist of structural fibers. In particular, structural fibers are characterized by a tenacity of 0.15 N/tex to 0.85 N/tex and an elongation at break of 2 % to 46 %. Structural fibers are synthetic, semi- synthetic or of plant origin.
• Non-limiting examples of structural fibers comprise cotton, viscose, lyocell, modal, cellulose triacetate, cupro, linen, hemp, ramie, bamboo, sisal, polyester and polyamide such as nylon or perlon.
• a structural yarn consists of one or more types of fibers selected from cotton, viscose, linen, polyester and polyamide, more particularly from cotton or viscose.
• soft yarn refers to yarns that contribute to comfortable, smooth haptics and thermal insulation of the textile.
• Soft yarns consist of soft fibers.
• soft yarns are made of protein fibers or synthetic alternatives (e.g. acrylic) thereof.
• Non-limiting examples of soft fibers comprise cashmere, merino wool, mohair, qiviut, angora, alpaca, llama, camel hair, vicuna, aralac, silk and acrylic.
• a soft yarn consists of one or more types of fibers selected from cashmere, merino wool, llama, silk and acrylic, more particularly from cashmere, silk and acrylic.
• elastic yarn refers to yarns that contribute to the elasticity and shape recovery of the textile.
• Elastic yarns consist of elastic fibers.
• elastic fibers are characterized by an elongation at break of 300 % to 650 %.
• Non-limiting examples for elastic fibers are elastane and elastolefin.
• Fiber types described above are defined according to DIRECTIVE 2008/121/EC of the European Parliament and of the Council of 14 January 2009 on textile names (recast), Annex I; Official Journal of the European Union L19/29, 23.1 .2009.
• a fabric comprising a proportion of 20 % to 50 % rose fiber yarn and a proportion of at least one structural yarn.
• the sum of fiber proportions does not exceed 100 %.
• the proportion of structural yarn of a fabric consisting of 20 % rose fiber yarn and one structural yarn is 80 %.
• the fabric comprises 20 % to 45 % rose fiber yarn, in particular 20 % to 40 %, more particularly 25 % to 40%.
• the fabric comprises 20 to 45 % rose fiber.
• the fabric comprises 20 to 35 % rose fiber.
• a rose fiber proportion of 20 to 35 % allows fast and cost-effective production of fabrics according to the invention. Furthermore, a rose fiber proportion of 20 to 35 % is sufficient that the functional benefits of the rose fiber such as thermoregulation, UV- protection, perspiration, moisture absorption and reflection of infrared-irradiation also apply for the fabric.
• the fabric comprises 25 to 35 % rose fiber. In certain embodiments, the fabric comprises 25 to 30 % rose fiber.
• the fabric comprises 30 to 45 % rose fiber.
• the fabric comprises 35 to 40 % rose fiber.
• the fabric comprises additionally a proportion of at least one soft yarn.
• the fabric comprises additionally a proportion of at least one elastic yarn.
• the proportion of the at least one soft yarn is 1-20 %.
• the proportion of the at least one soft yarn is 1-15 %.
• the proportion of the at least one soft yarn is 6-12 %.
• the proportion of at least one elastic yarn is 1 -10.
• the proportion of at least one elastic yarn is 1 -5 %.
• the proportion of at least one elastic yarn is 2-4 %.
• the sum of fiber proportions does not exceed 100 %.
• the proportion of the at least one structural yarn P str is calculated according to equation (1 ),
• P is the sum all of yarn proportions except of P s t r and P s t r is the fiber proportion of one or more structural yarns.
• the following example will demonstrate the calculation of the structural yarn proportion of a fabric comprising rose fiber yarn, viscose yarn, cashmere yarn and elastane yarn. Given are the proportions of 26 % rose fiber yarn, 7 % cashmere yarn as a soft yarn, 3 % elastane yarn as an elastic yarn. The proportion of viscose yarn as a structural yarn is calculated as follows.
• the fabric comprises 26 % rose fiber yarn, 7 % cashmere yarn as a soft yarn, 3 % elastane yarn as an elastic yarn and two structural yarns (e.g. cotton yarn and polyester yarn, cotton yarn and viscose yarn, polyester yarn and acrylic yarn, lyocell yarn and cotton yarn) in the same proportions with respect to the structural yarns (in other words 50 % cotton yarn and 50 % polyester yarn), the calculation is as follows.
• the proportion of cotton yarn and polyester yarn with respect to the fabric is 32 % each.
• Proportions refer to weight proportions of the yarns.
• the weight of additives such as dyes or impregnating agents is not considered in calculating the yarn proportions.
• the fabric comprises 25 % to 40 % rose fiber yarn and said proportion P str of the at least one structural yarn, wherein the proportion P str is calculated as described above.
• the fabric comprises 25 % to 35 % rose fiber yarn and said proportion P str of the at least one structural yarn, wherein the proportion P str is calculated as described above.
• the fabric comprises 35 % to 40 % rose fiber yarn and said proportion P str of the at least one structural yarn, wherein the proportion P str is calculated as described above.
• the fabric comprises 25 % to 40 % rose fiber yarn, said proportion Pstr of the at least one structural yarn and additionally 6-12 % of the at least one soft yarn and 3 % of the at least one elastic yarn, wherein the proportion P str is calculated as described above.
• the fabric comprises 25 % to 35 % rose fiber yarn, said proportion Pstr of the at least one structural yarn and additionally 6-12 % of the at least one soft yarn and 3 % of the at least one elastic yarn, wherein the proportion P str is calculated as described above.
• the fabric comprises 35 % to 40 % rose fiber yarn, said proportion Pstr of the at least one structural yarn and additionally 6-12 % of the at least one soft yarn and 3 % of the at least one elastic yarn, wherein the proportion P str is calculated as described above.
• the fabric comprises 25 % to 40 % rose fiber yarn, said proportion P s tr of the at least one structural yarn and additionally 3 % of the at least one elastic yarn, wherein the proportion P str is calculated as described above.
• the fabric comprises 25 % to 35 % rose fiber yarn, said proportion Pstr of the at least one structural yarn and additionally 3 % of the at least one elastic yarn, wherein the proportion P str is calculated as described above.
• the fabric comprises 35 % to 40 % rose fiber yarn, said proportion P str of the at least one structural yarn and additionally 3 % of the at least one elastic yarn, wherein the proportion P str is calculated as described above.
• the fabric comprises 25 % to 40 % rose fiber yarn, said proportion Pstr of the at least one structural yarn and additionally 6-12 % of the at least one soft yarn, wherein the proportion P str is calculated as described above.
• the fabric comprises 25 % to 35 % rose fiber yarn, said proportion Pstr of the at least one structural yarn and additionally 6-12 % of the at least one soft yarn, wherein the proportion P str is calculated as described above.
• the fabric comprises 35 % to 40 % rose fiber yarn, said proportion Pstr of the at least one structural yarn and additionally 6-12 % of the at least one soft yarn, wherein the proportion P str is calculated as described above.
• the fabric comprises 20 % to 40 % rose fiber yarn and said proportion P str of the at least one structural yarn, wherein the proportion P str is calculated as described above.
• the fabric comprises 20 % to 40 % rose fiber yarn, said proportion Pstr of the at least one structural yarn and additionally 6-12 % of the at least one soft yarn or 3 % of the at least one elastic yarn, wherein the proportion P str is calculated as described above.
• the fabric comprises 20 % to 40 % rose fiber yarn, said proportion Pstr of the at least one structural yarn and additionally 6-12 % of the at least one soft yarn and 3 % of the at least one elastic yarn, wherein the proportion P str is calculated as described above.
• the fabric comprises 25 % to 30 % rose fiber yarn and said proportion P str of the at least one structural yarn, wherein the proportion P str is calculated as described above.
• the fabric comprises 25 % to 30 % rose fiber yarn, said proportion Pstr of the at least one structural yarn and additionally 6-12 % of the at least one soft yarn or 3 % of the at least one elastic yarn, wherein the proportion P str is calculated as described above.
• the fabric comprises 25 % to 30 % rose fiber yarn, said proportion Pstr of the at least one structural yarn and additionally 6-12 % of the at least one soft yarn and 3 % of the at least one elastic yarn, wherein the proportion P str is calculated as described above.
• the structural yarn comprises cotton, viscose, lyocell, modal, cellulose triacetate, cupro, linen, silk, hemp, ramie, bamboo, sisal, polyester, nylon or a combination thereof.
• the structural yarn consist of cotton, viscose, lyocell, modal, cellulose triacetate, cupro, linen, silk, hemp, ramie, bamboo, sisal, polyester, nylon or a combination thereof.
• the structural yarn comprises cotton or viscose.
• the structural yarn consists of cotton or viscose.
• the structural yarn consists of one or more types of fibers selected from cotton, viscose, linen, polyester and polyamide, more particularly from cotton or viscose.
• the structural yarn consists of one or more types of fibers selected from cotton, viscose, linen, polyester and polyamide, more particularly from cotton or viscose.
• the structural yarn consists of one or two, particularly one, types of fibers selected from cotton, viscose, linen, polyester and polyamide, more particularly from cotton or viscose.
• the structural yarn consists of one or two, particularly one, types of fibers selected from cotton, viscose, linen, polyester and polyamide, more particularly from cotton or viscose.
• the soft yarn comprises, in particular consists of, cashmere, merino wool, mohair, qiviut, angora, alpaca, llama, camel hair, vicuna, aralac and acrylic or a combination thereof, in particular cashmere.
• the soft yarn comprises cashmere, merino wool, mohair, qiviut, angora, alpaca, llama, camel hair, vicuna, aralac and acrylic or a combination thereof.
• the soft yarn consists of cashmere, merino wool, mohair, qiviut, angora, alpaca, llama, camel hair, vicuna, aralac and acrylic or a combination thereof.
• the soft yarn comprises cashmere.
• the soft yarn consists of cashmere.
• the soft yarn comprises one or more types of fibers selected from cashmere, merino wool, llama, silk and acrylic, more particularly from cashmere, silk and acrylic.
• the soft yarn consists of one or more types of fibers selected from cashmere, merino wool, llama, silk and acrylic, more particularly from cashmere, silk and acrylic.
• the soft yarn comprises one or two, particularly one, types of fibers selected from cashmere, merino wool, llama, silk and acrylic, more particularly from cashmere, silk and acrylic.
• the soft yarn consists of one or two, particularly one, types of fibers selected from cashmere, merino wool, llama, silk and acrylic, more particularly from cashmere, silk and acrylic.
• the elastic yarn comprises elastane.
• the elastic yarn consists of elastane.
• the fabric is knitted.
• Examples for knitted fabrics are single jersey or interlock jersey.
• the fabric comprises at least two yarns, which are connected in such a way that one side of the fabric comprises at least a first yarn and the other side of the fabric comprises at a second yarn, wherein said first yarn is rose fiber yarn and said second yarn is a structural yarn as defined above.
• the two yarns are connected by weaving, knitting or gluing.
• the two yarns are connected by weaving.
• the two yarns are interwoven in such a way that the first yarn forms a napped structure and the second yarn forms a smooth surface.
• the fabric comprises at least two yarns which are knitted to form a jersey with a looped back.
• knitting stitches of the jersey with a looped back are formed from a structural yarn.
• the looped back of the jersey with a looped back are formed from a rose fiber yarn. If a functional textile is produced from the fabric made of two yarns, the napped structure is the side that contacts the skin and it is made of the first yarn. The smooth side of the fabric is made of the second yarn.
• Example 1 Fabrics made of 100 % rose fiber yarn
• the first fabric was produces by standard weaving and finishing processes including dying, opening, napping, stentering, compacting (KLS finishing), resin finish (Resin center MF-LF; melamin resin, non-ionic, 120°-C pre-drying, 150°-C cross-linked for 5 minutes) resulting in a plush structure with napped (carded) treatment.
• the resulting fabric is characterized by a very soft texture. On the napped side, the fabric detaches and loses a lot of fiber.
• the peeling performance is bad (peeling test value 1 , wherein the possible range of peeling test values are integers between 1 and 5) as the rose fiber is too short for the napping treatment.
• the shrinkage after the first washing was very high but within the normal range of fabrics made of cellulose fibers. Aiming to produce a fabric with improved properties, the production processes were altered as described in the following.
• the second fabric had the same properties as the first fabric.
• peeling test value 2 peeling test value 2
• Peeling in the context of the present application means pilling.
• Example 2 Fabrics made of 50 - 70 % rose fiber yarn and other yarns (structural, elastic) In a next optimization process, a structural yarn or a structural and an elastic yarn were added to the rose fiber yarn (count of Ne 30/1 ). The fabrics made of a mixture of yarns were produced in black.
• a fabric made of 70 % rose fiber yarn and 30 % cotton yarn was produced by standard weaving and finishing processes including dying, opening, napping, stentering, compacting (KLS finishing), resin finish (Resin center MF-LF; melamin resin, non-ionic, 120°-C pre- drying, 150°-C cross-linked for 5 minutes).
• the fabric was created with a plush structure with a napped (carded) treatment.
• the fabric showed a reduced softness compared to the fabrics made of 100 % rose fiber yarn since cotton fibers are less soft than rose fibers.
• the napped structure was formed by cotton fibers and more compact and pressed compared to the fabrics made of 100 % rose fiber yarn.
• a textile is made of the fabric made of 70 % rose fiber yarn and 30 % cotton yarn, the side with the napped structure would be the side that contacts the skin.
• the rose fiber is the active fiber that exerts beneficial properties such as thermoregulation, perfusion, moisture absorption and pH regulation, this fabric is not ideal for the production of functional textiles.
• the coloring of both fiber types was the same. Being the fabric 100% made of natural fibers, the shrinkage was very high after the first washing.
• the cotton yarn was replaced by polyester yarn.
• the fabric was created with a plush structure with a napped (carded) treatment.
• the polyester yarn formed the napping structure that was compacted and pressed and not soft.
• this fabric is not ideal for producing functional textiles.
• the dimensional stability of the fabric was enhanced.
• the shrinkage was low.
• polyester is a synthetic fiber and the rose fiber is of natural origin, the dying process is complicated and the resulting coloring was different for both fibers.
• the napped structure (polyester) was lighter than the rose fibers.
• a fabric (fleece of 330 gr, 220 gr and 180 gr) made of 67 % rose fiber yarn, 30 % microfiber yarn and 3 % elastane yarn showed a good peeling performance (peeling value 4/5 after 25 washing cycles) and no shrinking after washing. However, even after a softness treatment after washing, the fabric was not soft. Furthermore, the black dying resulted in different coloring of the fibers.
• a fabric made of 50 % rose fiber yarn and 50 % yarn consisting of recycled polyester showed no shrinking after washing, was easy to iron but not soft and the black dying resulted in different coloring of the fibers.
• Example 3 Fabrics made of up to 40 % rose fiber yarn and other yarns (structural, elastic, soft)
• Table 2 Compositions of fabrics made of up to 40 % rose fiber yarn and other yarns.
• Fabric A was knitted in circular machines in raw, then washed and treated. After being dried, the fleece was ironed with vapour to give balance and improve shrinkage values. Fabric A was knitted in such a way that both sides of the fabric are the same.
• the UV protection test was performed under normal climate conditions (20 °C, 65 % relative humidity) without elongation using the Labsphere Transmittance Analyzer.
• UPF ultraviolet protection factor
• the solar spectrum Melbourne, 17 th January was used.
• Transmission results are mean values of 10 measurements in UV-A (315 nm to 400 nm) and UV-B (280 nm to 315 nm).
• the UV-A transmittance as well as the UV-B transmittance of fabric A was 0.05 %. This corresponds to an UPF rating of 50+.
• the IR reflection was measured at the Spectral photometer Lambda 900 (PERKIN-ELMER Corp., USA) at 150 mm sphere, 8 ° sample slope to the orthogonal axis of light.
• Remission values R were three measurements from different areas of the sample in diagonal, parallel and orthogonal direction to the length of measured area. Mean values are given in percent (%) ⁇
• the remission of infra-red radiation between 820 nm and 1330 nm of fabric A is between 70 % and 80 %.
• the thermal resistance and the water-vapour resistance were determined in accordance with DIN EN ISO 1 1092: 2014-12.
• the water-vapour transmission index was calculated in accordance with DIN EN ISO 1 1092: 2014-12.
• Fabric A is characterized by a thermal resistance of 0.034 m 2 K/W, a water-vapor resistance of 5.3 m 2 Pa/W and a water-vapor transmission index / mt of 0.39.
• / mt -values may range from 0 to 1 , wherein an / mt -value of 0 means that the fabric does not transmit water vapour.
• rose fibers are characterized by functional benefits such as thermoregulation, UV- protection, perspiration, moisture absorption, reflection of infrared-irradiation and responding to the pH of the skin, the next aim was to enhance the rose fiber proportion of the fabric. Furthermore, a knitting technique was applied that results in a fabric with a smooth surface on one side and a napped surface on the other side. Here, one yarn (rose fiber yarn) forms the napped surface. If a textile is produced from such "two-sided" fabrics, the napped surface comprising mainly rose fiber would form the side that contacts the skin and the smooth surface would form the visible side comprising mainly cotton or cotton and cashmere. Fabrics B, C and D are such "two-sided" fabrics.
• the two-sided fabrics are jerseys with a looped back. Such jersey is also referred to as "French terry", "sweatshirt fabric” or “sommersweat”.
• the looped back is made of rose fiber yarn and the knitting stitches on the front side are made of a cotton yarn.
• Fabric B was knitted in circular machines in raw, then thermofixed and dyed with reactive colorants. Fabric B comprises rose fiber, cotton and cashmere. As cashmere is very expensive, two variants of lower costs (fabrics C and D) were produced.
• Fabric C may also be produced using dyed yarn.
• the yarn dyed fleece is knitted in a mill on a mechanic circular machine with these characteristics: 14 gauge - 30 diameter. After an usual quality check, the fleece is mercerised. The mercerization gives more balance on this fabric and a lustrous appearance (elegant aspect).
• the mercerising is a particular textile finishing process that compress and flatter the fibers and give more brightness to the fabric, using caustic soda during the washing/scouring process and, as well, an appropriate softener product. After that, the fabric is dried with steam and ironed. Then it is ready for the final quality check.
• Fabric D may also be produced as follows: This fleece is totally produced in a mill starting from the raw to the final fabric. It is a yarn dyed article knitted on a mechanic circular machine with these characteristics: 22 gauge - 30 diameter, specific for fleece structure. After an usual quality check, the raw fleece moves to a dye-department. Here, the raw fabric, which is still tubular, is prepared for the scouring, typical industrial treatment on the yarn dyed fabrics. The chemical products normally used are: a detergent to remove impurities and possible dirty, an antifoaming agent and, in the end, a softener product in order to obtain the good final touch of the fleece. Then the fabric is dried with steam and ironed with a specific machine called Sanfor. After this passage it is ready for the final quality check.
• Fabric C was tested in respect of the UV (ultraviolet) protection, IR (infra-red) reflection, thermal resistance and water-vapor resistance. Similar results compared to fabric A were obtained.
• the pilling test was performed according to ISO 12945-2.
• the dimensional stability was assessed according to ISO 5077, ISO 3759 and ISO 330 (washing at 30 °C and 40 °C).

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• 2017
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