WO2015004279A1 - Composition cosmétique comprenant une association ternaire lipidique pour lutter contre la sécheresse cutanée - Google Patents
Composition cosmétique comprenant une association ternaire lipidique pour lutter contre la sécheresse cutanée Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO2015004279A1 WO2015004279A1 PCT/EP2014/064972 EP2014064972W WO2015004279A1 WO 2015004279 A1 WO2015004279 A1 WO 2015004279A1 EP 2014064972 W EP2014064972 W EP 2014064972W WO 2015004279 A1 WO2015004279 A1 WO 2015004279A1
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- Prior art keywords
- skin
- composition
- composition according
- ternary
- sitosterol
- Prior art date
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- 150000002632 lipids Chemical class 0.000 title claims abstract description 30
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims description 33
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims description 11
- 229940076810 beta sitosterol Drugs 0.000 claims abstract description 21
- LGJMUZUPVCAVPU-UHFFFAOYSA-N beta-Sitostanol Natural products C1CC2CC(O)CCC2(C)C2C1C1CCC(C(C)CCC(CC)C(C)C)C1(C)CC2 LGJMUZUPVCAVPU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 21
- NJKOMDUNNDKEAI-UHFFFAOYSA-N beta-sitosterol Natural products CCC(CCC(C)C1CCC2(C)C3CC=C4CC(O)CCC4C3CCC12C)C(C)C NJKOMDUNNDKEAI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 21
- 229950005143 sitosterol Drugs 0.000 claims abstract description 21
- KZJWDPNRJALLNS-VJSFXXLFSA-N sitosterol Chemical compound C1C=C2C[C@@H](O)CC[C@]2(C)[C@@H]2[C@@H]1[C@@H]1CC[C@H]([C@H](C)CC[C@@H](CC)C(C)C)[C@@]1(C)CC2 KZJWDPNRJALLNS-VJSFXXLFSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 20
- OUZJJDFOKSDCHY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 14-methylpentadecyl 12-octadecanoyloxyoctadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC(CCCCCC)CCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C OUZJJDFOKSDCHY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 16
- 125000003976 glyceryl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C(O[H])([H])C(O[H])([H])[H] 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- 210000000434 stratum corneum Anatomy 0.000 claims description 22
- 210000003491 skin Anatomy 0.000 claims description 19
- 206010013786 Dry skin Diseases 0.000 claims description 9
- 230000037336 dry skin Effects 0.000 claims description 9
- WVJVHUWVQNLPCR-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoyl octadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC WVJVHUWVQNLPCR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 9
- 238000011282 treatment Methods 0.000 claims description 7
- 239000003974 emollient agent Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 230000001575 pathological effect Effects 0.000 claims description 6
- 230000003020 moisturizing effect Effects 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000003906 humectant Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- OLGWXCQXRSSQPO-MHARETSRSA-N P(1),P(4)-bis(5'-guanosyl) tetraphosphate Chemical compound C1=NC(C(NC(N)=N2)=O)=C2N1[C@@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H]1O)O[C@@H]1COP(O)(=O)OP(O)(=O)OP(O)(=O)OP(O)(=O)OC[C@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H]1O)O[C@H]1N1C(N=C(NC2=O)N)=C2N=C1 OLGWXCQXRSSQPO-MHARETSRSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 230000000887 hydrating effect Effects 0.000 claims description 2
- 208000024891 symptom Diseases 0.000 claims description 2
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 11
- 230000018044 dehydration Effects 0.000 description 10
- 238000006297 dehydration reaction Methods 0.000 description 10
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 description 8
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 description 7
- 239000010410 layer Substances 0.000 description 6
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 6
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 5
- 230000009471 action Effects 0.000 description 4
- 230000007423 decrease Effects 0.000 description 4
- 230000036571 hydration Effects 0.000 description 4
- 238000006703 hydration reaction Methods 0.000 description 4
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 description 4
- 241001340526 Chrysoclista linneella Species 0.000 description 3
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 238000013459 approach Methods 0.000 description 3
- 210000002615 epidermis Anatomy 0.000 description 3
- 239000012530 fluid Substances 0.000 description 3
- 230000004048 modification Effects 0.000 description 3
- 238000012986 modification Methods 0.000 description 3
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 description 3
- 230000035807 sensation Effects 0.000 description 3
- -1 stearoyl stearate ester Chemical class 0.000 description 3
- 239000004909 Moisturizer Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000004264 Petrolatum Substances 0.000 description 2
- DBMJMQXJHONAFJ-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium laurylsulphate Chemical compound [Na+].CCCCCCCCCCCCOS([O-])(=O)=O DBMJMQXJHONAFJ-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 2
- XSQUKJJJFZCRTK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Urea Chemical compound NC(N)=O XSQUKJJJFZCRTK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000004480 active ingredient Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000012298 atmosphere Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000008901 benefit Effects 0.000 description 2
- HVYWMOMLDIMFJA-DPAQBDIFSA-N cholesterol Chemical compound C1C=C2C[C@@H](O)CC[C@]2(C)[C@@H]2[C@@H]1[C@@H]1CC[C@H]([C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)[C@@]1(C)CC2 HVYWMOMLDIMFJA-DPAQBDIFSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 210000000736 corneocyte Anatomy 0.000 description 2
- 230000007613 environmental effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000011156 evaluation Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000006870 function Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000006872 improvement Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000011159 matrix material Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000001333 moisturizer Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000035515 penetration Effects 0.000 description 2
- 229940066842 petrolatum Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 235000019271 petrolatum Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 230000001681 protective effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000009467 reduction Effects 0.000 description 2
- 235000019333 sodium laurylsulphate Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 230000000699 topical effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- AZNRMKYTAHHKAC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1,3-dihydroxypropan-2-yl 2-ethylhexanoate Chemical compound CCCCC(CC)C(=O)OC(CO)CO AZNRMKYTAHHKAC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ABEXEQSGABRUHS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 16-methylheptadecyl 16-methylheptadecanoate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C ABEXEQSGABRUHS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- FLPJVCMIKUWSDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(4-formylphenoxy)acetamide Chemical compound NC(=O)COC1=CC=C(C=O)C=C1 FLPJVCMIKUWSDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 241001672739 Artemia salina Species 0.000 description 1
- SGPMPZKXUXPIBJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N C(C)C(CCCCC(=O)OCC(O)CO)(CC)CC Chemical compound C(C)C(CCCCC(=O)OCC(O)CO)(CC)CC SGPMPZKXUXPIBJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- FBPFZTCFMRRESA-FSIIMWSLSA-N D-Glucitol Natural products OC[C@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)CO FBPFZTCFMRRESA-FSIIMWSLSA-N 0.000 description 1
- FBPFZTCFMRRESA-JGWLITMVSA-N D-glucitol Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)CO FBPFZTCFMRRESA-JGWLITMVSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000005033 Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy Methods 0.000 description 1
- 102000011782 Keratins Human genes 0.000 description 1
- 108010076876 Keratins Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 208000003251 Pruritus Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 239000004141 Sodium laurylsulphate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229930182558 Sterol Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 238000002441 X-ray diffraction Methods 0.000 description 1
- YDHWWBZFRZWVHO-UHFFFAOYSA-H [oxido-[oxido(phosphonatooxy)phosphoryl]oxyphosphoryl] phosphate Chemical compound [O-]P([O-])(=O)OP([O-])(=O)OP([O-])(=O)OP([O-])([O-])=O YDHWWBZFRZWVHO-UHFFFAOYSA-H 0.000 description 1
- 239000013543 active substance Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000004458 analytical method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000004888 barrier function Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000015572 biosynthetic process Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000003139 buffering effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000004202 carbamide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 210000004027 cell Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 230000019522 cellular metabolic process Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229940106189 ceramide Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 150000001783 ceramides Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229940074979 cetyl palmitate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000012000 cholesterol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000000576 coating method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000005336 cracking Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000006071 cream Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000001687 destabilization Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000011161 development Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000006073 displacement reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000006862 enzymatic digestion Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000001704 evaporation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000008020 evaporation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 150000004665 fatty acids Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 description 1
- PXDJXZJSCPSGGI-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecanoic acid hexadecyl ester Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC PXDJXZJSCPSGGI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000003284 homeostatic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000013632 homeostatic process Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000002209 hydrophobic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000010874 in vitro model Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000003993 interaction Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229940060384 isostearyl isostearate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 210000002510 keratinocyte Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 238000012423 maintenance Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000011326 mechanical measurement Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000007246 mechanism Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000000813 microbial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000002438 mitochondrial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229940078812 myristyl myristate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 230000003204 osmotic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000007170 pathology Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000008447 perception Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000004962 physiological condition Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000000750 progressive effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000035755 proliferation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000002035 prolonged effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000011160 research Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000004044 response Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000000717 retained effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 210000002966 serum Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 230000036620 skin dryness Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000600 sorbitol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000006641 stabilisation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000011105 stabilization Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000000087 stabilizing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 150000003432 sterols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000003702 sterols Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000004936 stimulating effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 210000000498 stratum granulosum Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 239000000758 substrate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002344 surface layer Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- DZKXJUASMGQEMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetradecyl tetradecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCC DZKXJUASMGQEMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000007704 transition Effects 0.000 description 1
- 150000003626 triacylglycerols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/63—Steroids; Derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/06—Emulsions
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
- A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/86—Polyethers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
- A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
- A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
- A61P17/16—Emollients or protectives, e.g. against radiation
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
- A61P43/00—Drugs for specific purposes, not provided for in groups A61P1/00-A61P41/00
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/007—Preparations for dry skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
- A61K2800/5922—At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
Definitions
- the field of the present invention relates to the following novel lipid ternary combination: betasitosterol, isoketyl stearoyl stearate and glyceryl triethylhexanoate; and its applications in the fields of cosmetics and dermatology to fight against dry skin.
- the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of a composition comprising said ternary lipid association, as a moisturizing agent for the skin.
- Another object of the present invention further relates to a dermatological composition comprising said ternary lipid combination for use in the treatment of pathological dry skin.
- the skin is an interface between the body and the external environment and as such, it is not only protective against the penetration of chemical or microbial elements but it must also ensure the maintenance of the physiological environment of the body. body by limiting water losses.
- the most superficial layer of the epidermis the stratum corneum (which will be designated by SC throughout the present patent application)
- SC throughout the present patent application
- the stratum corneum is a major contributor to osmotic homeostasis whose role is to maintain a water gradient and thus reduce the environmental desiccative effects.
- the water content in the superficial part of the epidermis varies from 70 to 30% by passing from the last living layers (stratum granulosum) to the stratum corneum. It falls again in the very last corneocyte layers to reach 15%.
- stratum corneum which consists of keratinized flattened cells, the corneocytes, stacked in a lipid matrix.
- the latter composed of ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids forms a successive stack of lamellar phases oriented parallel to the surface of the skin.
- X-ray diffraction reveals that the lipid chains are organized in two phases, one crystalline in an orthorhombic arrangement the other more fluid and less compact in a hexagonal arrangement. The much more compact crystalline phase is dominant in the stratum corneum but the proportion of lipids in a hexagonal order increases towards the surface.
- LSS lauryl sulphate
- the stratum corneum loses its barrier quality which triggers in particular the following responses: increased intraepidermal perspiration, excessive keratinocyte proliferation, modification of the supramolecular arrangement of the lipid matrix. Clinically, the skin becomes thicker and flaky making it prone to cracking.
- the primary objectives are to improve skin comfort and quality of life, and to return the stratum corneum to a normal homeostatic state.
- formulators use certain fatty substances that stabilize the lamellar lipid structures of the stratum corneum by limiting the lateral movements of intercorneocyte lipids.
- Another alternative for buffering the viscosity of the lipid layers is to use sterols, which have the property of limiting, depending on the surrounding conditions of desiccation: either the displacement of fatty chains too fluid, or the approximation of fatty chains too rigid.
- An example of conventionally used fatty substance is petrolatum, the long C-26 chains of which are placed in interdigitation in the ceramidal bilayers of the stratum corneum. This almost occlusive action induces a decrease in the evaporation of water through the stratum corneum. Similar actions can be achieved by using long-chain symmetrical esters, which have the advantage of being less occlusive than petrolatum and therefore more pleasant to use.
- the best known include myristyl myristate, cetyl palmitate or isostearyl isostearate.
- asymmetric esters consisting of a long chain and one or more shorter branched chains are still found. These esters combine the advantages: improvement of the touch provided by the branched chains and buffer role vis-à-vis the intercorneocyte lipid spaces.
- Work on isolated stratum corneum shows the protective effect of some asymmetric esters on the mechanical stresses associated with dehydration stress (Levi et al, Int J Cosmet Sci, 2010; 32: 276-93). ).
- the results indicate in particular a good efficiency of isoketyl stearoyl stearate vis-à-vis the retraction of stratum corneum sample desiccated by a lack of moisture.
- the purpose of the present invention is to make an original contribution to the treatment of dry skin.
- branching on these short chain triglycerides is essential for the combination of the three fatty substances, isoketyl stearoyl stearate, ⁇ sitosterol and glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate, to allow optimized functioning of the intercorneocyte lipid spaces in an environment drying.
- the present invention therefore relates to the following ternary lipid combination: isoketyl stearoyl stearate, ⁇ sitosterol and glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate, and more specifically the ternary combination in which betasitosterol represents from 0.1% to 5% by weight of the association.
- isocetyl stearoyl stearate and glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate are present in said ternary association in substantially equal proportions by weight.
- the lipid ternary combination according to the invention consists of:
- Another object of the present invention is an emollient composition
- an emollient composition comprising from 1 to 20% of said ternary combination; the percentages being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
- Figures 1 to 3 relate to the constraint state study model of dehydrated isolated SC
- FIG. 1 presents the principle of measuring the evolution of the stresses after application of an emollient
- FIG. 3 represents the results obtained for the following series:
- Betasitosterol + ISS + glycerol 2 ethylhexanoate BIT.
- SC dehydration is associated with various mechanisms such as: the increase of intermolecular forces between intercellular lipids, the modification of keratin chains and a reduction of SC water volume. These phenomena lead to the modification of its biophysical properties: thickness, elasticity and tension - which themselves have a vital consequence on its integrity.
- composition according to the invention allows a reduction of the stress or cutaneous tension, and thus an improvement of the sensations of tightness of the skin and decrease roughness, cracks and / or crevices.
- the composition further comprises one or more other humectants to complete the action of the ternary lipid association.
- the composition further comprises one or more other cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients.
- G4G di (guanosine-5 ') tetraphosphate
- compositions according to the invention will be administered topically.
- compositions according to the invention are in the form of an emulsion.
- composition according to the invention may be care products and / or makeup for the skin of the body and / or face.
- Another aspect of the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of the composition according to the invention as a moisturizing agent for the skin.
- composition is intended to hydrate the epidermis, in particular the stratum corneum.
- present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for hydrating the skin comprising applying to the skin an emollient composition according to the invention.
- pathological skin dryness is intended to mean any type of cutaneous dryness, either directly related to a pathology of the skin or resulting from the dermatological treatment of the skin.
- composition is intended to improve the symptoms of any form of pathological dry skin, in terms of appearance such as roughness or associated perceptions (pruritus, tightness).
- Serum of a moisturizing care Serum of a moisturizing care:
- the mechanical approach used here consists in measuring the mechanical stresses induced within an isolated SC and subjected to dehydration stress in an environmental chamber.
- the SC sample from human skin explants was isolated by enzymatic digestion. It has been placed on a borosilicate blade to which it adheres naturally
- SC initially hydrated 100% is then placed in an atmosphere at a hygrometry rate of 7%.
- the SC thus undergoes progressive dewatering, during which SC voltage measurements are performed every 15 min for 8 hours using a stress meter.
- the stratum corneum shrinks.
- the support blade
- it bends.
- the initial data correspond to a measure of curvature variation of the assembly (borosilicate blade + SC).
- the calculation of parameters The biomechanical stress of the SC, such as voltage, is possible by the knowledge of the biomechanical properties of the borosilicate plate and its thickness as well as the thickness of the SC (see methodology Figure 1, and bibliographic reference K. Levi, and al, IJCS 2010).
- the whole (SC + blade) is returned to a hygrometry rate of 100% for 2 hours and then incubated in the different treatments for 5 min.
- a film of 50 ⁇ is deposited: using a spiral filmography for fluid emollients and with a deposit blade with regard to creams.
- the whole is again placed at a hygrometry rate of 7% for dehydration kinetics until a stabilization of the measurements (usually 8 to 12 hours).
- the kinetics of constraint development within SC subjected to dehydration stress is performed and compared to the "water" control which corresponds to the untreated.
- control corresponds to the untreated SC before the dehydration kinetics (-0-).
- the mechanical stress measurements within the SC (MPa) are represented as a function of the dehydration kinetics (h).
- composition BIT (ISS (47.5%), ⁇ -sitosterol (5%), glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate (47.5%)] makes it possible to reach the minimum of the stresses faster than a composition B1 or 1 (FIG. 3).
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- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Emergency Medicine (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
- Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
- Nuclear Medicine, Radiotherapy & Molecular Imaging (AREA)
- Medicinal Chemistry (AREA)
- Organic Chemistry (AREA)
- General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Pharmacology & Pharmacy (AREA)
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Bioinformatics & Cheminformatics (AREA)
- Toxicology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
- Pharmaceuticals Containing Other Organic And Inorganic Compounds (AREA)
- Acyclic And Carbocyclic Compounds In Medicinal Compositions (AREA)
Abstract
Description
Claims
Priority Applications (14)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
CA2917994A CA2917994C (fr) | 2013-07-12 | 2014-07-11 | Composition cosmetique comprenant une association ternaire lipidique pour lutter contre la secheresse cutanee |
KR1020167003346A KR102301065B1 (ko) | 2013-07-12 | 2014-07-11 | 삼원 지질 결합체를 포함하는 피부 건조 조절용 화장료 조성물 |
JP2016524844A JP6426168B2 (ja) | 2013-07-12 | 2014-07-11 | 皮膚の乾燥を制御するための三元脂質会合体を含んでなる化粧用組成物 |
CN201480039472.6A CN105579026B (zh) | 2013-07-12 | 2014-07-11 | 用于控制皮肤干燥的包含三元脂质联合的化妆品组合物 |
MX2016000406A MX352282B (es) | 2013-07-12 | 2014-07-11 | Composición cosmética que comprende una asociación ternaria de lípidos para controlar la sequedad de la piel. |
SG11201600215RA SG11201600215RA (en) | 2013-07-12 | 2014-07-11 | Cosmetic composition comprising a ternary lipid association for controlling dryness of the skin |
US14/904,286 US9616010B2 (en) | 2013-07-12 | 2014-07-11 | Cosmetic composition comprising a ternary lipid association for controlling dryness of the skin |
RU2016103388A RU2666253C2 (ru) | 2013-07-12 | 2014-07-11 | Косметическая композиция, содержащая трехкомпонентную липидную ассоциацию для контроля сухости кожи |
BR112016000500A BR112016000500B8 (pt) | 2013-07-12 | 2014-07-11 | Associação de lipídeo ternária e composição emoliente |
PL14739798T PL3019145T3 (pl) | 2013-07-12 | 2014-07-11 | Kompozycja kosmetyczna obejmująca trójskładnikowe połączenie lipidowe do zwalczania suchości skóry |
EP14739798.8A EP3019145B1 (fr) | 2013-07-12 | 2014-07-11 | Composition cosmétique comprenant une association ternaire lipidique pour lutter contre la sécheresse cutanée |
AU2014289153A AU2014289153B2 (en) | 2013-07-12 | 2014-07-11 | Cosmetic composition comprising a ternary lipid association for controlling dryness of the skin |
ES14739798.8T ES2651845T3 (es) | 2013-07-12 | 2014-07-11 | Composición cosmética que comprende una asociación ternaria lipídica para luchar contra la sequedad cutánea |
HK16108009.4A HK1219894A1 (zh) | 2013-07-12 | 2016-07-08 | 用於控制皮膚乾燥的包含三元脂質聯合的化妝品組合物 |
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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FR1356892A FR3008311B1 (fr) | 2013-07-12 | 2013-07-12 | Composition cosmetique comprenant une association ternaire lipidique pour lutter contre la secheresse cutanee |
FR1356892 | 2013-07-12 |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
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WO2015004279A1 true WO2015004279A1 (fr) | 2015-01-15 |
Family
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PCT/EP2014/064972 WO2015004279A1 (fr) | 2013-07-12 | 2014-07-11 | Composition cosmétique comprenant une association ternaire lipidique pour lutter contre la sécheresse cutanée |
Country Status (17)
Country | Link |
---|---|
US (1) | US9616010B2 (fr) |
EP (1) | EP3019145B1 (fr) |
JP (1) | JP6426168B2 (fr) |
KR (1) | KR102301065B1 (fr) |
CN (1) | CN105579026B (fr) |
AU (1) | AU2014289153B2 (fr) |
BR (1) | BR112016000500B8 (fr) |
CA (1) | CA2917994C (fr) |
ES (1) | ES2651845T3 (fr) |
FR (1) | FR3008311B1 (fr) |
HK (1) | HK1219894A1 (fr) |
MX (1) | MX352282B (fr) |
PL (1) | PL3019145T3 (fr) |
PT (1) | PT3019145T (fr) |
RU (1) | RU2666253C2 (fr) |
SG (1) | SG11201600215RA (fr) |
WO (1) | WO2015004279A1 (fr) |
Citations (5)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US3957971A (en) * | 1974-07-29 | 1976-05-18 | Lever Brothers Company | Moisturizing units and moisturizing compositions containing the same |
US4604281A (en) * | 1983-03-21 | 1986-08-05 | Charles Of The Ritz Group Ltd. | Cosmetic and skin treatment compositions containing acetylated sterols |
FR2799122A1 (fr) * | 1999-10-04 | 2001-04-06 | Agro Ind Rech S Et Dev Ard | Production d'un complexe lipidique vegetal comme agent cosmetique et nutraceutique |
FR2880802A1 (fr) * | 2005-01-14 | 2006-07-21 | Sederma Soc Par Actions Simpli | Composition cosmetique ou dermopharmaceutique contenant un extrait d'euglene |
EP2583667A1 (fr) * | 2011-10-20 | 2013-04-24 | Les Laboratoires Asepta | Complexe lipidique pour favoriser la repousse des phanères et compositions associées |
Family Cites Families (5)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
DE19804376B4 (de) * | 1998-02-04 | 2004-09-16 | Johnson & Johnson Gmbh | Lipidmischungen sowie deren Verwendung |
JP5633951B2 (ja) * | 2008-03-26 | 2014-12-03 | 伯東株式会社 | 化粧料およびその製造方法 |
JP5777859B2 (ja) * | 2010-03-26 | 2015-09-09 | 株式会社 資生堂 | 乳化組成物 |
WO2011159439A2 (fr) * | 2010-06-16 | 2011-12-22 | Mary Kay Inc. | Hydratant pour la peau |
JP5689026B2 (ja) * | 2010-06-17 | 2015-03-25 | 株式会社 資生堂 | 水中油型乳化皮膚化粧料 |
-
2013
- 2013-07-12 FR FR1356892A patent/FR3008311B1/fr active Active
-
2014
- 2014-07-11 JP JP2016524844A patent/JP6426168B2/ja active Active
- 2014-07-11 CA CA2917994A patent/CA2917994C/fr active Active
- 2014-07-11 BR BR112016000500A patent/BR112016000500B8/pt active IP Right Grant
- 2014-07-11 RU RU2016103388A patent/RU2666253C2/ru active
- 2014-07-11 WO PCT/EP2014/064972 patent/WO2015004279A1/fr active Application Filing
- 2014-07-11 CN CN201480039472.6A patent/CN105579026B/zh active Active
- 2014-07-11 MX MX2016000406A patent/MX352282B/es active IP Right Grant
- 2014-07-11 PL PL14739798T patent/PL3019145T3/pl unknown
- 2014-07-11 ES ES14739798.8T patent/ES2651845T3/es active Active
- 2014-07-11 PT PT147397988T patent/PT3019145T/pt unknown
- 2014-07-11 AU AU2014289153A patent/AU2014289153B2/en active Active
- 2014-07-11 SG SG11201600215RA patent/SG11201600215RA/en unknown
- 2014-07-11 KR KR1020167003346A patent/KR102301065B1/ko active IP Right Grant
- 2014-07-11 EP EP14739798.8A patent/EP3019145B1/fr active Active
- 2014-07-11 US US14/904,286 patent/US9616010B2/en active Active
-
2016
- 2016-07-08 HK HK16108009.4A patent/HK1219894A1/zh unknown
Patent Citations (5)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US3957971A (en) * | 1974-07-29 | 1976-05-18 | Lever Brothers Company | Moisturizing units and moisturizing compositions containing the same |
US4604281A (en) * | 1983-03-21 | 1986-08-05 | Charles Of The Ritz Group Ltd. | Cosmetic and skin treatment compositions containing acetylated sterols |
FR2799122A1 (fr) * | 1999-10-04 | 2001-04-06 | Agro Ind Rech S Et Dev Ard | Production d'un complexe lipidique vegetal comme agent cosmetique et nutraceutique |
FR2880802A1 (fr) * | 2005-01-14 | 2006-07-21 | Sederma Soc Par Actions Simpli | Composition cosmetique ou dermopharmaceutique contenant un extrait d'euglene |
EP2583667A1 (fr) * | 2011-10-20 | 2013-04-24 | Les Laboratoires Asepta | Complexe lipidique pour favoriser la repousse des phanères et compositions associées |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
SG11201600215RA (en) | 2016-02-26 |
FR3008311B1 (fr) | 2015-08-28 |
FR3008311A1 (fr) | 2015-01-16 |
PL3019145T3 (pl) | 2018-05-30 |
US20160166490A1 (en) | 2016-06-16 |
CN105579026A (zh) | 2016-05-11 |
PT3019145T (pt) | 2017-12-22 |
CN105579026B (zh) | 2018-01-16 |
BR112016000500B1 (pt) | 2020-08-04 |
RU2016103388A3 (fr) | 2018-03-06 |
KR102301065B1 (ko) | 2021-09-09 |
ES2651845T3 (es) | 2018-01-30 |
MX2016000406A (es) | 2016-08-23 |
AU2014289153B2 (en) | 2018-12-06 |
JP2016523952A (ja) | 2016-08-12 |
KR20160079765A (ko) | 2016-07-06 |
EP3019145A1 (fr) | 2016-05-18 |
AU2014289153A1 (en) | 2016-02-11 |
EP3019145B1 (fr) | 2017-09-20 |
US9616010B2 (en) | 2017-04-11 |
RU2016103388A (ru) | 2017-08-17 |
MX352282B (es) | 2017-11-09 |
JP6426168B2 (ja) | 2018-11-21 |
CA2917994C (fr) | 2021-08-24 |
BR112016000500B8 (pt) | 2023-05-16 |
RU2666253C2 (ru) | 2018-09-06 |
CA2917994A1 (fr) | 2015-01-15 |
HK1219894A1 (zh) | 2017-04-21 |
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