Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
  • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
  • A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
  • A61K36/185—Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
  • A61K36/87—Vitaceae or Ampelidaceae (Vine or Grape family), e.g. wine grapes, muscadine or peppervine
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
  • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
  • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/005—Preparations for sensitive skin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations

Definitions

• Grape polyphenolic extract and cosmetic product that includes it
• the present invention falls within the cosmetic-pharmaceutical sector and, in particular, relates to cosmetic formulations enriched with an extract rich in polyphenols, from red grapes and with high antioxidant power.
• the skin naturally possesses antioxidant defense mechanisms (enzymatic and non-enzymatic) to cope with environmental aggressions.
• antioxidant defense mechanisms enzyme and non-enzymatic
• these endogenous defense mechanisms are insufficient to combat the associated harmful effects, then dermal problems appear and among them, skin aging.
• ROS reactive oxygen species
• one of the objects of the present invention is to present a product that allows to give a cosmetic response to oxidative stress, in addition to alleviating the direct and collateral damage derived from it on the organism.
• These cosmetic responses are based on the use of active ingredients whose origin is very varied [Sevin, A. et al., "Effects of polyphenols on skin damage due to ultraviolet A rays: an experimental study on rats", Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 2007, 21 (5), 650-656].
• grape polyphenols specifically red grape
• grape polyphenols are the most attractive of the incorporations because of the possibilities they offer when they are responsible for important benefits on the organism such as radical scavenging. free, delayed cell and skin aging, or stimulation of the production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid in the skin.
• Phenolic compounds are present in most plant species that are regularly consumed by man and are characterized by comprising a large group of secondary metabolites whose common characteristic is to have a benzene ring with at least one hydroxyl group. In addition, these compounds have a high antioxidant capacity [Wang, H. et al., "Total antioxidant capacity of fruits", J. Agrie. Food Chem., 1996, 44, 701- 705].
• the polyphenolic compounds of the grape are present both in the skin, especially in the epidermal cells, and in the seeds, and are characterized by comprising phenols in many cases in the form of oligomers and polymers with an important antioxidant activity, even higher to that of vitamin C or vitamin E, as a consequence of their chemical structure as electron donors [Kinsella et al., "Possible mechanisms for the protective role of antioxidants in wine and plant foods", Food Technology, 1993, 85- 89].
• the raw material of these processes is not based solely on pomace.
• the ES223468 patent describes, in addition to the use of grape marc, the use of pips and / or grape grain wraps.
• patent ES2228284 describes a composition characterized by also comprising black grape rasps.
• Patent ES2274842 describes the use of grape seed extracts, grape leaves and grape skins.
• this last patent is directed to a mixture of active ingredients of different grape extracts, as opposed to a mixture of the active ingredients (namely, catechin, quercetin and resveratrol) individually.
• patent ES2172475 is directed to a composition based on grape juice, wine or its mixtures, as well as based on a vine leaf extract. Additionally, the cosmetic composition object of this patent is characterized by comprising at least one alpha hydroxy acid, which can also contain grape seed oil.
• Patent ES2225548 is directed to the use of ellagic acid in the form of salts, metal complexes, mono- or polyether derivatives, mono- or poly-acylates and carbonates or carbamates derived from hydroxyl groups.
• this patent describes the use of the composition for topical application of protection of the skin and keratinous materials, so as to prevent, attenuate and / or suppress the deleterious effects of toxic gases such as ozone, metals and organic compounds residues of combustion.
• US20090247490 propose to phosphorylate the polyphenols in order to protect them. In this way, it is possible to avoid their losses, since they are very sensitive compounds to external agents. In addition, phosphorylating polyphenols delays their distribution to keratin tissues, such as hair, skin and nails, which contain enzymes to dephosphorylate these polyphenols and transform them into their active state.
• microencapsulation is proposed.
• the use of mixtures of different fruit juices or extracts of plants or parts of plants is described for the preparation of the microcapsules. Its method of production is based on the polycondensation between a vegetable polyphenol and a cross-linking agent, mainly diacid halide, after which it is freeze-dried and rehydrated.
• a polyphenolic grape extract (Vitis vinifera) is a first object of this invention, characterized in that it has the following technical specifications: ⁇ an index of Total Polyphenols (IPT) between 100 and 1000, preferably between 350 and 700, determined by spectroscopic techniques such as UV-visible spectrophotometry.
• IPT Total Polyphenols
• a polyphenol content expressed as equivalents of gallic acid between 2,000 and 25,000 mg of gallic acid / 1, preferably between 8,000 and 17,000 mg of gallic acid / 1 and determined according to the Folin Ciocalteu method.
• the Folin Ciocalteu method consists of the spectrophotometric reading of the absorbance of a solution at a wavelength of 765 nm [Harman D., J. Gerontol, 1956, 11, 298-300];
• these extracts come from the skins or the skin that surrounds the grape pulp after its press.
• the method used to obtain the extracts is that described in application ES2319032.
• This procedure is based on the collection of residual pomace from the wine distillation process, which is subjected to a solid-liquid extraction process by continuous countercurrent diffusion.
• the polyphenolic extract obtained is characterized by not only comprising polyphenols, but also other components and molecules from the origin grape, which characterize said extract and differentiate it from a simple mixture of polyphenols produced artificially in a plant or laboratory.
• polyphenolic compounds present in the extract can be identified from an analysis by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC).
• HPLC high performance liquid chromatography
• the polyphenolic extract object of the present invention can comprise at least one polyphenolic compound selected from a group consisting of pigments, flavonols, flavan-3-oles and phenolic acids, as well as any combination thereof.
• the above compounds are comprised in the polyphenolic extract in the following amounts:
• Pigments between 100 and 500 mg / 1, preferably, between 300 and 400 mg / 1;
• flavonols between 100 and 500 mg / 1, preferably between 200 and 300 mg / 1; • flavan-3-oles: between 1,000 and 1,500 mg / 1, preferably, between 1350 and 1450 mg / 1;
• phenolic acids between 100 and 500 mg / 1, preferably between 200 and 300 mg / 1.
• An additional object of this invention is also a cosmetic composition characterized in that it comprises a polyphenolic extract as previously described. Additionally, said cosmetic composition is characterized in that it comprises m.Gnos 85-6 in weight with respect to the total of natural components.
• this is characterized by further comprising at least one vehicle comprising one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients , preferably selected from a group consisting of musqueta oil, caviar extract, jojoba oil and wheat germ oil, as well as any combination thereof.
• cosmetically acceptable excipients preferably selected from a group consisting of musqueta oil, caviar extract, jojoba oil and wheat germ oil, as well as any combination thereof.
• a further object of the invention is also the method of obtaining the described cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises the mixture of at least one polyphenolic extract as described with at least one vehicle comprising one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients, preferably selected from musqueta oil, caviar extract, jojoba oil, wheat germ oil, etc.
• these cosmetic products may consist of anti-aging nourishing creams, preferably designed for mature or punished skin in order to give the skin a more juicy and moisturized appearance, restoring its protective barrier; moisturizers, preferably facials, which combat dry skin, moisturize it throughout the day and preserve its freshness, with a parallel sunscreen action; or eye contour, which provides luminosity due to its decongestant action, acting on small wrinkles and stimulating microcirculation and decongestion of bags and dark circles.
• the above products are not limiting, and may also consist of other products such as facial tonic, cleansing milk, body milk, serum, etc.
• cosmetic products may consist of cosmetic products for oral application.
• these cosmetic products are characterized by being highly respectful of the environment by not comprising parabens, mineral oils, or artificial colors.
• said cosmetic products are presented in preferably inert and airtight containers, providing the product with greater stability and protection against light and air.
• Figure 1 shows the inhibition of the production of reactive oxygen species caused by pretreatment with the formula tested in different concentrations, after exposure to three doses of UVA radiation. Values are expressed as a percentage of inhibition of reactive oxygen species against untreated cells exposed to the same doses of UVA radiation.
• Figure 2 shows the inhibition of the production of reactive oxygen species caused by pretreatment with the formula tested in a concentration of 0.5 mg / ml against the inhibition caused by Vitamin C.
• Table 1 shows the amounts and ingredients corresponding to each of the previous compositions.
• compositions Compounds Other polyphenolic cosmetic components (ppm) (% by weight)
• the formula tested shows activity of inhibition against UVA rays induced by the release of reactive oxygen species in human keratinocytes.
• the greatest effect (- 57.9%) was found with a concentration of 0.5 mg / ml, as shown in Figure 2.

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• Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
• Natural Medicines & Medicinal Plants (AREA)
• Public Health (AREA)
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Citations (6)

• 2010
  • 2010-10-26 KR KR1020137013433A patent/KR20130113474A/ko not_active Application Discontinuation
  • 2010-10-26 WO PCT/ES2010/070689 patent/WO2012056052A1/es active Application Filing
  • 2010-10-26 ES ES201390044A patent/ES2406858B1/es active Active

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