WO2012056052A1

WO2012056052A1 - Polyphenolic grape extract and cosmetic product comprising said extract

Info

Publication number: WO2012056052A1
Application number: PCT/ES2010/070689
Authority: WO
Inventors: Luis Carlos MORO GONZÁLEZ; Alberto GUADARRAMA RODRÍGUEZ; María Luisa SANZ BUENHOMBRE; Beatriz Moro Soria; Sonia VILLANUEVA SÁNCHEZ
Original assignee: Esdor Cosmeticos, S.L.
Priority date: 2010-10-26
Filing date: 2010-10-26
Publication date: 2012-05-03
Also published as: ES2406858A1; ES2406858B1; KR20130113474A

Abstract

The present invention relates to a polyphenolic grape extract characterized in that it has the following technical specifications: a total polyphenol index (TPI) of between 100 and 1000; a polyphenol content expressed as equivalents of gallic acid of between 2.000 and 25.000 mg of gallic acid/L; and a pH of between 2 and 4. The invention likewise relates to a cosmetic composition that comprises said extract and also to the use thereof for the production of cosmetic products.

Description

Grape polyphenolic extract and cosmetic product that includes it

Technical field

The present invention falls within the cosmetic-pharmaceutical sector and, in particular, relates to cosmetic formulations enriched with an extract rich in polyphenols, from red grapes and with high antioxidant power.

State of the art prior to the invention

The skin naturally possesses antioxidant defense mechanisms (enzymatic and non-enzymatic) to cope with environmental aggressions. However, given an excess of stimuli, these endogenous defense mechanisms are insufficient to combat the associated harmful effects, then dermal problems appear and among them, skin aging.

Studies in the field of the etiology of photoaging have shown that it is caused, at least in part, by reactive oxygen species (ROS), better known as free radicals. Such species are generated not only when the skin is exposed to aggressions such as ultraviolet light, but also in the natural aging process [Hadshiew, IM et al., "Photoprotective mechanisms of human skin. Modulation by oligonucleotides", Hautarzt, 2002, 53 (3), 167-173].

It is evident that the first step to achieve a healthy and protected skin against these aggressions is, in addition to adequate food, the use of cosmetic products that guarantee the desired protection and that is also durable.

In this sense, one of the objects of the present invention is to present a product that allows to give a cosmetic response to oxidative stress, in addition to alleviating the direct and collateral damage derived from it on the organism. These cosmetic responses are based on the use of active ingredients whose origin is very varied [Sevin, A. et al., "Effects of polyphenols on skin damage due to ultraviolet A rays: an experimental study on rats", Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 2007, 21 (5), 650-656].

Of all the cosmetic responses resulting from medical and dermopharmaceutical research, grape polyphenols, specifically red grape, are the most attractive of the incorporations because of the possibilities they offer when they are responsible for important benefits on the organism such as radical scavenging. free, delayed cell and skin aging, or stimulation of the production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid in the skin.

Phenolic compounds are present in most plant species that are regularly consumed by man and are characterized by comprising a large group of secondary metabolites whose common characteristic is to have a benzene ring with at least one hydroxyl group. In addition, these compounds have a high antioxidant capacity [Wang, H. et al., "Total antioxidant capacity of fruits", J. Agrie. Food Chem., 1996, 44, 701- 705].

Specifically, the polyphenolic compounds of the grape are present both in the skin, especially in the epidermal cells, and in the seeds, and are characterized by comprising phenols in many cases in the form of oligomers and polymers with an important antioxidant activity, even higher to that of vitamin C or vitamin E, as a consequence of their chemical structure as electron donors [Kinsella et al., "Possible mechanisms for the protective role of antioxidants in wine and plant foods", Food Technology, 1993, 85- 89].

In addition to the above effects, there are numerous clinical evidences that demonstrate the anti-inflammatory action of polyphenols; his action against the dermatitis and varicose ulcer, as well as against vascular retinal disorders; its effect of blocking the process of carcinogenesis in the state of prevention, initiation, development and progression; its action against cellular aging responsible for degenerative diseases such as Parkinson's or Alzheimer's; or its action to delay skin aging, improve elasticity, increase cell vitality, decrease the effects of oxidative stress and protect the skin against external aggressions.

In recent years, the use of vinification residues in the development of cosmetics has undergone significant growth. Thus, different patents claim compositions made from grape extracts and other cosmetic excipients.

However, unlike the present invention, the raw material of these processes is not based solely on pomace. Thus, for example, the ES223468 patent describes, in addition to the use of grape marc, the use of pips and / or grape grain wraps. For its part, patent ES2228284 describes a composition characterized by also comprising black grape rasps. Patent ES2274842, in turn, describes the use of grape seed extracts, grape leaves and grape skins. Specifically, this last patent is directed to a mixture of active ingredients of different grape extracts, as opposed to a mixture of the active ingredients (namely, catechin, quercetin and resveratrol) individually.

On the other hand, patent ES2172475 is directed to a composition based on grape juice, wine or its mixtures, as well as based on a vine leaf extract. Additionally, the cosmetic composition object of this patent is characterized by comprising at least one alpha hydroxy acid, which can also contain grape seed oil.

Likewise, in certain patents of the state of the art processes are described which, unlike the object of the present invention, comprise isolating certain compounds from other polyphenols, so that these are not found in the final product. In patent ES2209187, resveratrol is presented in the form of esters, in monomers and oligomers, which are obtained from grape brooms.

Patent ES2225548 is directed to the use of ellagic acid in the form of salts, metal complexes, mono- or polyether derivatives, mono- or poly-acylates and carbonates or carbamates derived from hydroxyl groups. In turn, this patent describes the use of the composition for topical application of protection of the skin and keratinous materials, so as to prevent, attenuate and / or suppress the deleterious effects of toxic gases such as ozone, metals and organic compounds residues of combustion.

On the other hand, US20070148109 and

US20090247490 propose to phosphorylate the polyphenols in order to protect them. In this way, it is possible to avoid their losses, since they are very sensitive compounds to external agents. In addition, phosphorylating polyphenols delays their distribution to keratin tissues, such as hair, skin and nails, which contain enzymes to dephosphorylate these polyphenols and transform them into their active state.

In other patents, as in the Spanish patent ES2130594, microencapsulation is proposed. In particular, the use of mixtures of different fruit juices or extracts of plants or parts of plants is described for the preparation of the microcapsules. Its method of production is based on the polycondensation between a vegetable polyphenol and a cross-linking agent, mainly diacid halide, after which it is freeze-dried and rehydrated.

In turn, the fermentation of an extract of polyphenols from yeasts has been proposed in patents such as US20100021532, aimed at a personal care composition.

The cosmetic products obtained in the previous patents are very varied. Thus, some exercise specific actions, such as the product described in ES223468, which has anti-cellulite activity, or that described in ES2228284, which acts on tired legs. In turn, other products such as the one described in ES2209187 have sunscreen properties, so they are suitable for use in sunscreen cosmetics.

It is the object of this invention to present a new cosmetic formulation characterized by comprising at least one polyphenolic extract. It is also the object of this invention to use said cosmetic formulation for the elaboration of high-end functional cosmetic products characterized by combining the beneficial properties of the different naturally occurring polyphenols present in its composition.

Description of the invention

Thus, a polyphenolic grape extract (Vitis vinifera) is a first object of this invention, characterized in that it has the following technical specifications: · an index of Total Polyphenols (IPT) between 100 and 1000, preferably between 350 and 700, determined by spectroscopic techniques such as UV-visible spectrophotometry. UV-visible spectrophotometry is an analytical technique based on the absorption of radiation by the molecules present in the sample to be analyzed. Each molecule, depending on its electronic configuration, can absorb a specific radiation that is characterized by its wavelength. Specifically, the polyphenolic compounds in solution absorb radiation in the ultraviolet zone (λ = 280 nm);

• a polyphenol content expressed as equivalents of gallic acid (GEA) between 2,000 and 25,000 mg of gallic acid / 1, preferably between 8,000 and 17,000 mg of gallic acid / 1 and determined according to the Folin Ciocalteu method. The Folin Ciocalteu method consists of the spectrophotometric reading of the absorbance of a solution at a wavelength of 765 nm [Harman D., J. Gerontol, 1956, 11, 298-300];

• a pH between 2 and 4. This acidic pH of the extract used ensures good skin compatibility due to the slightly acidic pH of the skin.

As a raw material of the extract it is possible to use various types of grapes, although the grape grape is especially preferred. Specifically, and preferably, these extracts come from the skins or the skin that surrounds the grape pulp after its press.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the method used to obtain the extracts is that described in application ES2319032. This procedure is based on the collection of residual pomace from the wine distillation process, which is subjected to a solid-liquid extraction process by continuous countercurrent diffusion. Thus, the polyphenolic extract obtained is characterized by not only comprising polyphenols, but also other components and molecules from the origin grape, which characterize said extract and differentiate it from a simple mixture of polyphenols produced artificially in a plant or laboratory.

These polyphenolic compounds present in the extract can be identified from an analysis by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). Thus, in particular, the polyphenolic extract object of the present invention can comprise at least one polyphenolic compound selected from a group consisting of pigments, flavonols, flavan-3-oles and phenolic acids, as well as any combination thereof.

In a particular embodiment of the invention, the above compounds are comprised in the polyphenolic extract in the following amounts:

· Pigments: between 100 and 500 mg / 1, preferably, between 300 and 400 mg / 1;

• flavonols: between 100 and 500 mg / 1, preferably between 200 and 300 mg / 1; • flavan-3-oles: between 1,000 and 1,500 mg / 1, preferably, between 1350 and 1450 mg / 1;

• phenolic acids: between 100 and 500 mg / 1, preferably between 200 and 300 mg / 1.

An additional object of this invention is also a cosmetic composition characterized in that it comprises a polyphenolic extract as previously described. Additionally, said cosmetic composition is characterized in that it comprises m.Gnos 85-6 in weight with respect to the total of natural components.

In addition to the polyphenolic extract described, preferably in a concentration between 2% and 10% by weight of the total cosmetic composition, this is characterized by further comprising at least one vehicle comprising one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients , preferably selected from a group consisting of musqueta oil, caviar extract, jojoba oil and wheat germ oil, as well as any combination thereof. These components are characterized as high cosmetic line components.

A further object of the invention is also the method of obtaining the described cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises the mixture of at least one polyphenolic extract as described with at least one vehicle comprising one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients, preferably selected from musqueta oil, caviar extract, jojoba oil, wheat germ oil, etc.

It has been shown that the synergistic effect of the different ingredients of the composition manages to block the skin's aging process, mainly as a consequence of its high antioxidant capacity. Additionally, various aesthetic benefits derived from the use of the cosmetic composition have been proven: delayed skin aging through its antioxidant activity, improved skin elasticity and anti-wrinkle function. It has also been shown to increase cell vitality and resistance of blood vessels, reinforcing the micro-circulation, reducing the effects of oxidative stress and protecting the skin against environmental aggressions and smoke. In addition, it blocks free radicals, responsible for aging and premature oxidation of the skin.

It is therefore a further object of the invention to use the composition described for the preparation of cosmetic products. Preferably, these cosmetic products may consist of anti-aging nourishing creams, preferably designed for mature or punished skin in order to give the skin a more juicy and moisturized appearance, restoring its protective barrier; moisturizers, preferably facials, which combat dry skin, moisturize it throughout the day and preserve its freshness, with a parallel sunscreen action; or eye contour, which provides luminosity due to its decongestant action, acting on small wrinkles and stimulating microcirculation and decongestion of bags and dark circles.

However, the above products are not limiting, and may also consist of other products such as facial tonic, cleansing milk, body milk, serum, etc.

In further particular embodiments of the invention, cosmetic products may consist of cosmetic products for oral application.

In addition to the advantages presented above, derived from the cosmetic composition present in its composition, these cosmetic products are characterized by being highly respectful of the environment by not comprising parabens, mineral oils, or artificial colors.

Preferably, said cosmetic products are presented in preferably inert and airtight containers, providing the product with greater stability and protection against light and air. Brief description of the figures

Figure 1 shows the inhibition of the production of reactive oxygen species caused by pretreatment with the formula tested in different concentrations, after exposure to three doses of UVA radiation. Values are expressed as a percentage of inhibition of reactive oxygen species against untreated cells exposed to the same doses of UVA radiation.

Figure 2 shows the inhibition of the production of reactive oxygen species caused by pretreatment with the formula tested in a concentration of 0.5 mg / ml against the inhibition caused by Vitamin C.

Examples

The following are a series of examples that are illustrative and not limiting of the invention:

Example 1.- Cosmetic compositions

From the polyphenolic grape extract obtained and characterized as described above, the following cosmetic compositions were prepared for topical administration, using conventional methods:

1.1 Antioxidant moisturizer with red grape polyphenols;

1.2 Nourishing antioxidant cream with red grape polyphenols;

1.3 Antioxidant eye contour with red grape polyphenols.

Table 1 shows the amounts and ingredients corresponding to each of the previous compositions.

Table 1. Cosmetic compositions

Composition Compounds Other polyphenolic cosmetic components (ppm) (% by weight)

Almond oil cream

1,500 ppm

5.5% sweet moisturizer, oil 1% rosehip, 2% hyaluronic acid and

vitamin E 0.4%

2% caviar extract, 5% sweet almond oil,

Cream

1,500 ppm rosehip 1%, nutrient acid

3% hyaluronic,

vitamin E 0.5% and

1% vitamin F

Caffeine 1.5% and acid contour

1,500 ppm

10% hyaluronic eyes

Example 2.- Safety test

In this second example, a clinical study was carried out to verify the good skin compatibility of cosmetic products in adult subjects, after a single application on the skin of the back and under an occlusive patch for 48 hours. From the results obtained in the experimental conditions adopted, the cutaneous compatibility of the research product was considered very good.

In addition, a final clinical safety test of cosmetic products in healthy adult subjects was carried out to confirm good skin compatibility and the absence of potential delayed skin sensitization. Taking into account the results obtained in the experimental conditions adopted, the single epicutaneous application and repeated applications of this product under an occlusive patch in healthy adult subjects did not cause any reaction of primary or cumulative irritation, nor of skin sensitization.

Example 3.- Efficacy test

In the tests carried out it was observed that the sample, in all test concentrations, is effective in reducing the production of reactive species of the oxygen after being subjected to stress with UVA radiation, as shown in Figure 1.

Thus, the formula tested (nourishing cream) shows activity of inhibition against UVA rays induced by the release of reactive oxygen species in human keratinocytes. The greatest effect (- 57.9%) was found with a concentration of 0.5 mg / ml, as shown in Figure 2. Conclusions

The above examples allow to demonstrate the optimum characteristics of the cosmetic compositions object of the invention, among which it is worth highlighting a good skin compatibility and efficacy against UVA radiation, a high degree of sun protection, as well as an absence of ophthalmic irritability.

Claims

1. Polyphenolic grape extract characterized in that it has the following technical specifications:

· An index of Total Polyphenols (IPT) between 100 and 1000;

• a polyphenol content expressed as equivalents of gallic acid, between 2,000 and 25,000 mg of gallic acid / 1;

* a pH between 2 and 4.

2. Polyphenolic extract according to claim 1, characterized in that it comes from the grape grape skins.

3. Polyphenolic extract according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the polyphenols present in the extract are selected from a group consisting of pigments, flavonols, flavan-3-oles and phenolic acids, as well as any of their combinations.

4. Polyphenolic extract according to claim 3, wherein said polyphenols are in the following amounts:

· Between 100 and 500 mg / 1 of pigments;

• between 100 and 500 mg / 1 of flavonols;

• between 1000 and 1500 mg / 1 of flavan-3-oles; Y

• between 100 and 500 mg / 1 of phenolic acids.

5. Cosmetic composition characterized in that it comprises a polyphenolic extract according to any one of claims 1 to 4.

6. Cosmetic composition according to claim 5, characterized in that in addition to the polyphenolic extract, it comprises at least one vehicle which in turn comprises one or more excipients.

7. Cosmetic composition according to claim 6, wherein said excipient is selected from a group consisting of musqueta oil, caviar extract, jojoba oil and wheat germ oil, as well as any combination thereof.

Method for obtaining a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 5 to 7, characterized in that it comprises the mixture of at least one polyphenolic extract according to any one of claims 1 to 4 with at least one vehicle comprising one or more excipients

9. The method according to claim 8, wherein said excipient is selected from a group consisting of musqueta oil, caviar extract, jojoba oil and wheat germ oil, as well as any combination thereof.

10. Use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 5 to 7, for the manufacture of a cosmetic product for topical application.

11. Use of a cosmetic composition according to claim 5 or 6 for the manufacture of a cosmetic product for oral application.

12. Cosmetic product characterized in that it comprises a cosmetic composition according to one of claims 5 to 7.

13. Cosmetic product according to claim 12, wherein said cosmetic product is selected from a group consisting of anti-aging nourishing cream, moisturizer and eye contour.