WO2011132708A1 - 織編物製造用の膨化糸及び巻き糸並びに織編物及びその製造方法 - Google Patents
織編物製造用の膨化糸及び巻き糸並びに織編物及びその製造方法 Download PDFInfo
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- WO2011132708A1 WO2011132708A1 PCT/JP2011/059731 JP2011059731W WO2011132708A1 WO 2011132708 A1 WO2011132708 A1 WO 2011132708A1 JP 2011059731 W JP2011059731 W JP 2011059731W WO 2011132708 A1 WO2011132708 A1 WO 2011132708A1
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- yarn
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
- D02G3/40—Yarns in which fibres are united by adhesives; Impregnated yarns or threads
- D02G3/404—Yarns or threads coated with polymeric solutions
- D02G3/406—Yarns or threads coated with polymeric solutions where the polymeric solution is removable at a later stage, e.g. by washing
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02J—FINISHING OR DRESSING OF FILAMENTS, YARNS, THREADS, CORDS, ROPES OR THE LIKE
- D02J1/00—Modifying the structure or properties resulting from a particular structure; Modifying, retaining, or restoring the physical form or cross-sectional shape, e.g. by use of dies or squeeze rollers
- D02J1/02—Bulking, e.g. looping
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/49—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads textured; curled; crimped
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/60—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the warp or weft elements other than yarns or threads
- D03D15/68—Scaffolding threads, i.e. threads removed after weaving
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2321/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D10B2321/06—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polymers of unsaturated alcohols, e.g. polyvinyl alcohol, or of their acetals or ketals
Definitions
- the present invention relates to an expanded yarn and a wound yarn for producing a woven or knitted fabric by weaving and knitting, a woven or knitted fabric using the expanded yarn or the wound yarn, and a method for manufacturing the same. More specifically, in the present invention, the yarn itself is swollen compared to a normal spun yarn, excellent in breathability, heat retention, water absorption, soft and free of fluff, and both the pre-dyeing method and the post-dyeing method.
- the present invention relates to a wound yarn that can be used in the present invention, a woven or knitted fabric using the expanded yarn or the wound yarn, and a method for producing the same.
- the present invention when the present invention is made into a woven or knitted fabric, it is lightweight and voluminous, soft and excellent in touch, excellent in breathability, heat retention, water absorption and quick-drying, excellent in sustainability of such performance,
- the present invention relates to an expanded yarn and a wound yarn for producing a woven or knitted fabric that gives a woven or knitted fabric excellent in resistance to pilling (fluff or fuzziness), and a woven or knitted fabric using the expanded or wound yarn and a method for producing the same.
- composite yarns that are a combination of spun yarns and polyurethane elastic yarns include core spun yarn in which the core yarn made of polyurethane elastic yarn is covered with spinning cotton and twisted, and core yarn made of polyurethane elastic yarn Examples thereof include a single covered yarn and a double covered yarn in which a spun yarn is wound around a single layer or multiple layers.
- the twist of the spun yarn itself becomes a hindrance factor such as texture, lightness, and feeling of swelling, it is widely used to produce spun yarn with a reduced number of twists and to produce a woven or knitted fabric using the spun yarn. It has been broken.
- As a method of reducing the number of twists there is a method of producing a spun yarn by reducing the set number of twists in the fine spinning in the spinning process, but since the number of twists is reduced, the feeling is improved, but pilling and wear Are more likely to occur, and more fibers are likely to come off when washed.
- Patent Document 1 Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2006-225797 (Patent Document 1) and Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2007-154339 (Patent Document 2), a spun yarn and a water-soluble yarn are spun in a direction opposite to the twisted direction of the spun yarn.
- a method is disclosed in which a composite twisted yarn twisted by 0.5 to 1.0 times the twist number of the yarn is produced, and the water-soluble yarn is dissolved after the composite twisted yarn is produced into a woven or knitted fabric.
- this method a woven or knitted fabric with a good feeling can be obtained.
- Patent Document 3 the number of twists of the spun yarn and the water-soluble yarn is 1.3 to 3 times the twist number of the spun yarn in the direction opposite to the twisted direction of the spun yarn.
- a woven or knitted fabric obtained by dissolving and removing water-soluble yarns in the woven or knitted fabric with water after producing the woven or knitted fabric using the composite twisted yarn. This woven or knitted fabric has a good texture, is excellent in lightness and breathability, and has stretchability.
- this composite yarn contains water-soluble yarn and the torque due to twisting is too strong to be used for weaving and knitting, the heat-setting step such as steam setting and the step of removing the water-soluble yarn dissolved by heat setting was necessary. Furthermore, even with heat-set yarns, warping and weaving and knitting properties are not sufficient. For example, when yarn breakage occurs during weaving, torque is generated by tension, causing the yarn to twist (contract) and weave. It was difficult to restart the knitting machine. Further, since the torque is strong, for example, when it is applied to a single knit, the mesh is skewed, it is difficult to knit closely, and yarn breakage is likely to occur.
- the twisted yarns adhere to each other in a heat set, and when stored for a long time in the state of a wound yarn or the like, the twisted yarns easily adhere to each other, especially in a humid environment. Stability was low.
- the water-soluble yarn is dissolved and removed while the composite twisted yarn is constrained in the woven or knitted fabric.
- the weight reduction and swelling are not enough.
- An object of the present invention is to provide a swollen yarn and a wound yarn that are excellent in texture, lightness, pilling resistance, and excellent in knitting and productivity, a woven fabric using the swollen yarn or a wound yarn, and a method for producing the same. There is to do.
- Another object of the present invention is an expanded yarn and a wound yarn that are excellent in storage stability, and can be stored for a long time in a humid environment, and a woven or knitted fabric using the expanded yarn or the wound yarn and a method for producing the same. It is to provide.
- Still another object of the present invention is to provide a swollen yarn and a wound yarn suitable for both a method of weaving and knitting using a pre-dyed yarn and a method of dyeing after producing a woven or knitted fabric, and the swollen yarn or wound yarn.
- An object of the present invention is to provide a woven or knitted fabric using yarn and a method for producing the same.
- Another object of the present invention is an expanded or wound yarn that is lightweight, voluminous, soft and excellent in tactile sensation, excellent in heat retention, breathability, water absorption and pilling resistance, and excellent in sustainability of these performances. It is to provide a woven or knitted fabric used and a method for producing the same.
- Still another object of the present invention is to provide a woven or knitted fabric using an expanded yarn or a wound yarn that can produce a woven or knitted fabric that is free of fluff and has excellent water absorption and quick drying properties, and a method for producing the same.
- Another object of the present invention is applicable to various spun yarns such as spun yarns made of natural fibers, spun yarns made of synthetic fibers, and spun yarns made of semi-synthetic fibers.
- An object of the present invention is to provide a woven or knitted fabric corresponding to each spun yarn using spun yarn having an arbitrary thickness from a thick to a thick yarn.
- Still another object of the present invention is light weight, volume, soft and excellent touch feeling, excellent heat retention and pilling resistance, excellent durability of these performances, no fluffing, water absorption, quick drying
- Another object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a woven or knitted fabric excellent in quality.
- Patent Document 3 The invention described in Patent Document 3 previously developed by the present inventors is that a specific composite twisted yarn is made using a spun yarn and a water-soluble yarn, and a woven or knitted fabric is produced using this composite twisted yarn. It is an invention that dissolves and removes water-soluble yarn in a knitted fabric with water to form a woven or knitted fabric that is swollen or stretchable.At the time of filing this invention, the inventors twisted a spun yarn and a water-soluble yarn. It was thought that the weaving and knitting process for producing the woven or knitted fabric could not be carried out smoothly unless the composite twisted yarn was used.
- the water-soluble yarn was dissolved in the state of the dough because it can be carried out in combination with the dough refining process and is easy in terms of process.
- those skilled in the art thought that a sufficient bath ratio and a space for swelling were necessary to create a texture, so dissolving the water-soluble yarn in the state of twisted yarn has not been implemented. It was not even assumed.
- a water-soluble yarn is dissolved in a hydrophilic solvent from a specific composite twisted yarn itself including a spun single yarn before producing a woven or knitted fabric.
- a swollen yarn that swells significantly compared to the composite twisted yarn before removal and that has a small torque can be improved, and the texture, lightness, pilling resistance can be improved, and the knitting and productivity can be improved.
- the swollen yarn of the present invention is obtained by dissolving and removing a water-soluble yarn with a hydrophilic solvent from a composite twisted yarn obtained by twisting a spun single yarn and a water-soluble yarn in a direction opposite to the twisting direction of the spun single yarn.
- the swollen yarn including swollen spun single yarn when both ends of a 100 cm long yarn are fixed 10 cm apart in the direction perpendicular to gravity and the yarn is suspended, or twisting does not occur or a twisted portion ( The average value of the distance from the uppermost end of the twisted portion) to the left and right ends of the yarn is 30 cm or more.
- the expanded yarn of the present invention may be a raw yarn for producing a woven or knitted fabric.
- the diameter of the swollen spun single yarn may be 1.2 times or more than the diameter of the spun single yarn before the swollen processing.
- the expanded yarn of the present invention may be an expanded yarn that has not been heat-treated to reduce torque.
- the expanded yarn of the present invention may have a B value represented by the following formula of 3 to 8.
- N1 is the number of twists of the spun single yarn
- N2 is the number of twists of the composite twisted yarn
- D1 is the average diameter of the spun single yarn
- D2 is the average diameter of the swollen spun single yarn
- the swollen yarn of the present invention may be a swollen yarn made of swollen spun single yarn.
- the swollen yarn of the present invention may be a swollen yarn in which two or more composite twisted yarns are aligned or twisted and then the water-soluble yarn of the composite twisted yarn is dissolved and removed with a hydrophilic solvent.
- the swollen yarn of the present invention is a swollen yarn obtained by aligning or twisting one or more composite twisted yarns and one or more other yarns, and then dissolving and removing the water-soluble yarn of the composite twisted yarn with a hydrophilic solvent. There may be.
- the twist number of the composite twisted yarn is about 1.3 to 3 times the twist number of the spun single yarn, and the ratio (mass ratio) of the spun single yarn to the water-soluble yarn is
- the former / the latter may be about 98/2 to 20/80.
- the present invention also includes a wound yarn obtained by winding the expanded yarn into a cocoon shape or a tubular shape, and a woven or knitted fabric including the expanded yarn.
- the ratio of the expanded yarn may be 10% by mass or more.
- the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention may contain an expanded yarn as a pile yarn.
- the present invention also includes a method for producing the swollen yarn, in which a water-soluble yarn is dissolved and removed from a composite twisted yarn obtained by twisting a spun single yarn and a water-soluble yarn in a direction opposite to the twisting direction of the spun single yarn with a hydrophilic solvent. included. Furthermore, the present invention includes a method for producing a woven or knitted fabric using the expanded yarn as a raw yarn, and a method for dyeing the expanded yarn.
- the spun single yarn contained in the composite twisted yarn before removal is used. Compared with this, an expanded yarn having a large swelling and a small torque can be obtained, and it is excellent in texture, lightness and pilling resistance, and can improve knitting and productivity.
- the swollen yarn of the present invention is excellent in storage stability and can be stored for a long period of time even in a humid environment. Furthermore, since there is no step of removing the water-soluble yarn from the dyed woven or knitted fabric, either the method of knitting using a yarn dyed in advance (pre-dyed yarn) or the method of dyeing after producing the woven or knitted fabric is used. Since the method is also suitable, a wide variety of woven and knitted fabrics can be smoothly produced using the expanded yarn of the present invention.
- the expanded yarn of the present invention is lightweight and voluminous, soft and excellent in tactile sensation, excellent in heat retention, breathability, water absorption and pilling resistance, and excellent in sustainability of these performances.
- the woven or knitted fabric obtained using such swollen yarn is lighter, more voluminous, and softer than the woven or knitted fabric obtained by dissolving and removing the water-soluble yarn in the woven or knitted fabric with a hydrophilic solvent.
- it has excellent tactile sensation, better heat retention and breathability, is less prone to pilling, has no fluffing, and is highly quick-drying despite its high water absorption.
- it has excellent sustainability of various performances, the volume when it is new is not lost even after repeated washing, maintains a high volume, and performance such as flexibility, heat retention, breathability, water absorption, quick drying etc. Can be maintained for a long time.
- the above characteristics are exhibited by using a single yarn (spun single yarn).
- a twin yarn, a triple yarn, a quadruple yarn A composite twisted yarn is produced using a yarn in which two or more spun yarns are twisted together, and a sufficiently swollen spun yarn cannot be obtained even if the water-soluble yarn in the obtained composite twisted yarn is dissolved and removed with water. Even if a woven or knitted fabric is manufactured, lightness, volume, flexibility, touch, water absorption, quick drying, etc. cannot be improved.
- the swollen yarn of the present invention is a spun yarn made of natural fiber such as cotton fiber, hemp fiber, wool fiber, or synthetic fiber spun as a single yarn used for producing a composite twisted yarn before removing the water-soluble yarn. It can be applied to various spun yarns such as yarns and semi-synthetic spun yarns, and can be used for many types of small lots. Moreover, spun yarns of any thickness from fine count to thick count can be used for each spun yarn. A corresponding woven or knitted fabric is obtained.
- the swollen yarn of the present invention can be obtained by combining a plurality of yarns in combination with each other or in combination with other yarns, or by using twisted yarns.
- the yarn is soft and excellent in texture, air permeability, heat retention, water absorption, no fluffing, and can be used without problems as a yarn for weaving and knitting.
- FIG. 1 is an electron micrograph of a spun single yarn used in the production of the swollen yarn and the composite twisted yarn in Example 1.
- the upper yarn indicates the swollen yarn, and the lower yarn indicates the spun single yarn.
- the expanded yarn of the present invention includes an expanded spun single yarn that has been expanded. Specifically, the swollen yarn of the present invention is obtained by dissolving and removing a water-soluble yarn with a hydrophilic solvent from a composite twisted yarn obtained by twisting a spun single yarn and a water-soluble yarn in a direction opposite to the twisting direction of the spun single yarn. The obtained swollen spun single yarn is included.
- the spun yarn constituting the composite twisted yarn before dissolving and removing the water-soluble yarn may be a “single yarn” (ie, spun single yarn) as spun using fibers (raw cotton). is necessary. If the spun yarn constituting the composite twisted yarn is a spun yarn in which two or more spun yarns such as twin yarns, triplet yarns and quadruple yarns are twisted, these spun yarns are twisted with water-soluble yarns. Even if the water-soluble yarn in the composite twisted yarn is dissolved and removed with a hydrophilic solvent, the spun yarn remaining after the removal of the water-soluble yarn remains twisted, so the swelling is small, lightness, heat retention, water absorption, etc. Inferior to the above, the soft texture is poor, and the object of the present invention cannot be achieved.
- the spun single yarn is not particularly limited as long as it is a spun single yarn formed from a fiber that does not dissolve in water (hot water, hot water, cold water) (that is, a spun single yarn that has been spun using the fiber). Any of synthetic fiber, semi-synthetic fiber, regenerated fiber, and natural fiber may be used.
- polyester fibers poly C 2-4 alkylene arylate fibers such as polyethylene terephthalate fibers, polytrimethylene terephthalate fibers, polybutylene terephthalate fibers, and polyethylene naphthalate fibers
- polyamide fibers polyamide 6, Aliphatic polyamide fibers such as polyamide 66
- polyolefin fibers poly C 2-4 olefin fibers such as polyethylene and polypropylene
- acrylic fibers acrylonitrile fibers, etc.
- water (hot water) insoluble polyvinyl alcohol Based fibers such as ethylene-vinyl alcohol copolymer fibers
- polyvinyl chloride fibers such as polyvinyl chloride
- polyvinylidene chloride fibers such as polyvinylidene chloride fibers.
- semisynthetic fibers include acetate fibers such as triacetate fibers.
- examples of the regenerated fiber include rayon, polynosic, cupra, and lyocell (for example, registered trademark name “Tencel”).
- Examples of natural fibers include cotton, wool (wool), silk, hemp and the like.
- the spun yarn is not limited to a single spun yarn selected from these fibers, and is a spun yarn composed of two or more kinds of fibers (for example, a spun yarn of polyester fiber and cotton). Also good. These fibers may be appropriately selected according to the use of the expanded yarn and the woven or knitted fabric produced using the expanded yarn.
- Commonly used fibers include, for example, synthetic fibers such as polyamide fibers, polyester fibers and acrylic fibers, semi-synthetic fibers such as acetate fibers, regenerated fibers such as rayon and cupra, and natural fibers such as cotton, wool and silk. Etc.
- synthetic fibers such as polyester fibers and natural fibers such as cotton and wool are preferable, and natural fibers such as cotton are particularly preferable because they are excellent in yarn strength and versatility and excellent in texture.
- the number of twists of the spun single yarn is not particularly limited.
- K is, for example, a spun single yarn of about 1.5 to 5, preferably about 2 to 4, more preferably about 2.5 to 3.5, the quality stability of the spun single yarn, the productivity in the production of the composite twisted yarn, It is preferable from the viewpoint of availability of spun yarn.
- the specific number of twists may be, for example, about 200 to 2000 times / m, preferably about 250 to 1500 times / m, more preferably about 300 to 1200 times / m (particularly 400 to 1000 times / m).
- the thickness (average fineness) of the spun single yarn is not particularly limited, and is easy to obtain and used for various knitted and knitted fabrics. From the viewpoint of cotton count (tex display), for example, 5 to 120 count ( 50 to 1180 dtex), preferably 6 to 80 (74 to 980 dtex), more preferably 10 to 60 (98 to 590 dtex).
- the water-soluble yarn constituting the composite twisted yarn is not particularly limited as long as it has solubility in a hydrophilic solvent.
- a hydrophilic solvent such as water
- the woven or knitted fabric obtained from the composite twisted yarn containing such a water-soluble yarn can easily dissolve and remove the water-soluble yarn with a hydrophilic solvent such as water, and is excellent in handleability.
- the water-soluble yarn when the water-soluble yarn itself is immersed in hot water at a temperature of 80 ° C. or higher (particularly 90 ° C.
- the water-soluble yarn is less than the mass of the water-soluble yarn before immersion. 85% by weight or more (especially 95% by weight or more) is preferably a water-soluble yarn (water-soluble yarn having a water-insoluble residue of less than 15% by weight, particularly less than 5% by weight) in which the hot water is dissolved. If the water-soluble yarn has low water solubility, even if the woven or knitted fabric produced using the composite twisted yarn is treated with a hydrophilic solvent such as water, the water-soluble yarn in the composite twisted yarn cannot be sufficiently dissolved and removed. There is a volume, and it becomes difficult to obtain an expanded yarn capable of producing a woven or knitted fabric that is very soft and excellent in touch.
- the fiber constituting the water-soluble yarn is not particularly limited as long as the water solubility is satisfied.
- a fiber constituted of a water-soluble resin can be used.
- water-soluble resins include cellulose resins (such as hydroxy C 2-3 alkyl cellulose such as hydroxyethyl cellulose), polyvinyl resins (such as polyvinyl pyrrolidone, polyvinyl ether, polyvinyl alcohol, and polyvinyl acetal), acrylic copolymers, Alkali metal salts (such as copolymers containing units composed of acrylic monomers such as (meth) acrylic acid and hydroxyl group-containing (meth) acrylic esters), water-soluble polyamide resins (polyoxyethylene units) And polyamides having sulfonic acid groups, hydroxyl groups, etc.), water-soluble polyester resins (polyesters having polyoxyethylene units, polyesters having sulfonic acid groups, amino groups, etc.), etc. I can get lost.
- These water-soluble resins can be
- polyvinyl resins and water-soluble polyamide resins particularly water-soluble polyvinyl alcohol resins, water, fiber strength, high solubility in water (hot water), biodegradability, and availability.
- a soluble ethylene-vinyl alcohol copolymer resin is preferred.
- the water-soluble ethylene-vinyl alcohol copolymer resin reduces the degree of polymerization to about 200 to 800 (especially 250 to 500), and contains olefins (especially ⁇ -C 2-10 olefins such as ethylene) 3 to 20 It may be a polyvinyl alcohol resin copolymerized by about mol% (particularly 3 to 15 mol%).
- the water-soluble polyvinyl alcohol fiber has been widely known, and is commercially available, for example, as water-soluble vinylon.
- water-soluble polyvinyl alcohol fibers and water-soluble ethylene-vinyl alcohol copolymer fibers are biodegradable, the waste liquid discharged when the polyvinyl alcohol fibers are dissolved and removed from the composite twisted yarn with water is smoothed by microorganisms.
- the water-soluble yarn may be a spun yarn or a filament yarn (long fiber).
- a filament yarn is preferable from the viewpoint of easy dissolution and removal with a hydrophilic solvent.
- the water-soluble yarn is quickly and satisfactorily removed when the composite twisted yarn is treated with a hydrophilic solvent such as water to dissolve and remove the water-soluble yarn.
- the multifilament yarn is particularly preferred because it can be used easily, a spun single yarn with a fine count can be easily used, and the water-soluble yarn mixing ratio in the composite twisted yarn can be reduced to reduce the cost.
- the thickness of the water-soluble yarn is, for example, 15 to 200 dtex, preferably from the viewpoints of easy twisting with the spun single yarn, easy dissolution and removal of the water-soluble yarn from the composite twisted yarn, and productivity of the water-soluble yarn. Is about 20 to 150 dtex, more preferably about 25 to 100 dtex (particularly 30 to 80 dtex).
- the reason for using a yarn (water-soluble yarn) that dissolves in a hydrophilic solvent such as water, not a yarn that dissolves or decomposes in alkali or acid, as a removing yarn in the composite twisted yarn is one of the composite twisted yarns.
- the spun yarn constituting the composite twisted yarn may be altered or decomposed, whereas when treated with a hydrophilic solvent such as water (especially water) In this case, there is no fear of causing alteration or decomposition of the spun single yarn.
- a wide variety of spun single yarns can be used as the spun single yarn constituting the composite twisted yarn.
- the spun yarn constituting the composite twisted yarn as long as it is a yarn that does not dissolve in a hydrophilic solvent such as water, even a yarn that is easily dissolved or decomposed by an alkali or acid can be used.
- the types and choices of spun yarns that make up composite twisted yarns are expanded, and as a result, they are formed from spun yarns (expanded yarns) that have been expanded by dissolving and removing the water-soluble yarns in the composite twisted yarn with a hydrophilic solvent such as water.
- the expanded yarn obtained by dissolving and removing the water-soluble yarn from the composite twisted yarn with water is swollen, textured, lightweight, heat retaining, flexible, Excellent weaving and knitting, twist stability, etc.
- the woven or knitted fabric obtained by using this swollen yarn is lightweight and voluminous, very soft and tactile, excellent in heat retention and water absorption, and sustains these performances. It has excellent properties, and there is no fluffing and excellent pilling resistance.
- the ratio of the water-soluble yarn in the composite twisted yarn is too small, the texture, lightness, swelling, etc. of the expanded yarn are lowered, and the texture tends to be hard and inferior.
- the ratio of the water-soluble yarn in the composite twisted yarn is too large, the shape stability of the expanded yarn is lowered and the weaving and knitting properties are lowered.
- the number of spun single yarns and water-soluble yarns is determined from the viewpoints of the texture of expanded yarns and woven and knitted fabrics, lightness, swelling, limitation of the number of krills in the twisting machine, and quality control. Needs to be one, and preferably 1 to 3 (particularly 1 to 2) water-soluble yarns.
- the twist direction of the composite twisted yarn (twist direction in twisting of two types of yarns of the spun yarn and the water-soluble yarn) (upper twist) is the twist direction of the single spun yarn constituting the composite twisted yarn. (Primary twist) is the reverse direction.
- the number of twists of the upper twist (the number of twists N2 of the composite twisted yarn) is larger than the number of twists of the lower twist (twist number N1 of the spun single yarn), and
- the ratio (N2 / N1) of the numbers of both twists is in a specific range of 1.3 to 3
- the number of twists of the upper twist is greatly different from the above-described prior art in which the number of twists of the lower twist is smaller than that of the lower twist.
- the number of twists of the upper twist is 1.3 to 3 times the number of twists of the lower twist, so that when the composite twisted yarn is manufactured (when the upper twist is performed), While maintaining shape stability (twisting stability), the upper twist works in the direction of untwisting the twisted single yarn (bottom twist), and the yarn length of the spun single yarn becomes longer during the upper twist.
- the spun single yarn is twisted with a water-soluble yarn in a direction opposite to the twist direction of the spun single yarn to form a composite twisted yarn.
- the fiber (raw cotton) constituting the spun single yarn is untwisted.
- the original twisted direction of the original twist is maintained (Note that the original yarn of the spun single yarn remains the original twist because the untwisting is physically suppressed by the water-soluble yarn. It is estimated to be). Therefore, in the spun single yarn, the raw cotton is rearranged during the upper twist. Further, when the water-soluble yarn is a spun yarn and the twist direction is opposite to the twist direction of the spun single yarn, or when the water-soluble yarn is a filament yarn, the yarn length of the spun single yarn> the yarn of the water-soluble yarn The yarn is twisted while maintaining the long relationship.
- the water-soluble yarn when the water-soluble yarn is dissolved and removed from the composite twisted yarn with a hydrophilic solvent such as water, it is twisted in the direction opposite to the twist direction in the composite twisted yarn in a state where torque is applied to the original twisted direction of the spun single yarn.
- the repulsion occurs between the raw cottons constituting the spun single yarn. That is, it is presumed that the raw cotton of the single spun yarn in the original twisted state repels in the twisting direction of the composite twisted yarn due to dissolution of the water-soluble yarn that has bound the twist, and expansion occurs.
- the spun single yarn is swollen, and the swollen yarn of the present invention is excellent in texture, lightness, heat retention, water absorption, etc. and excellent in sustainability of these performances.
- the number of twists of the upper twist in the composite twisted yarn is too smaller than the number of twists of the lower twist, the untwisting of the spun single yarn becomes insufficient at the time of twisting to produce the composite twisted yarn, and the water-soluble yarn is dissolved in water. When it is removed, it is not possible to obtain a yarn length for sufficient swelling, weight reduction, heat retention, flexibility, etc., and an expansion yarn excellent in texture, lightness, flexibility, heat retention, water absorption, etc. is obtained. Absent.
- the number of twists of the upper twist is too larger than the number of twists of the lower twist, troubles such as yarn breakage may occur in the twisting process when the upper twist is applied (a twisting process for producing a composite twisted thread). This is not preferable because it reduces the productivity of twisted yarn.
- the number of twists of the composite twisted yarn (the number of twists of the upper twist) is sufficient if the ratio of the twisted number of the spun yarn is within the above range, for example, 50 to 3000 times / m, preferably 100 to 2500 times / m, Preferably, it may be about 200 to 2000 times / m (particularly about 300 to 1800 times / m).
- twist number of composite twisted yarn (twist number of upper twist) means the number of twists when the spun single yarn and the water-soluble yarn are twisted together. It becomes a value according to the set twist number.
- the composite twisted yarn is formed by twisting a single spun yarn and a water-soluble yarn (by applying an upper twist).
- the type of the twisting machine in producing the composite twisted yarn is not particularly limited, and for example, a general-purpose twisting machine such as a double twister, a ring twister, or an up twister can be used.
- a light and voluminous swollen yarn can be obtained by extracting (dissolving and removing) the water-soluble yarn in the composite twisted yarn from the composite twisted yarn with a hydrophilic solvent.
- the composite twisted yarn to be subjected to the extraction treatment is not limited to the composite twisted yarn formed by a single swollen spun yarn alone, for example, a yarn containing the composite twisted yarn, for example, a yarn in which two or more composite twisted yarns are aligned or a twisted yarn It may be a yarn in which one or more composite twisted yarns and one or more other yarns are aligned or a twisted yarn.
- a method of extracting the composite twisted yarn (or yarn containing the composite twisted yarn) with a casket, a method of extracting the composite twisted yarn in a cheese-like form around a bobbin for dyeing, and dyeing the composite twisted yarn A method of performing extraction processing while being wound around a beam can be used.
- a method of performing an extraction treatment in a state where the composite twisted yarn is wound in a cheese shape is preferable because it can be efficiently produced in a small lot.
- the fiber density when dissolving the water-soluble yarn is 0.1 to 0.7 g / cm 3 (particularly 0.2 to 0.5 g / cm 3). ) Adjusted to the extent, wound the composite twisted yarn or the yarn containing the composite twisted yarn into a cheese shape and dissolved and removed the water-soluble yarn with water. Is obtained. If the fiber density of the cheese-like wound thread is too small, the winding tends to collapse before and after the extraction process and during the process.
- the water-soluble yarn contained in the yarn wound inside will remain undissolved, or even if the water-soluble yarn dissolves, the space between the fibers will be dense, resulting in insufficient swelling, texture, and light weight. Properties, heat retention, etc. are likely to deteriorate.
- Hydrophilic solvents include water, alcohols (methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, etc.), ketones (acetone, etc.), ethers (tetrahydrofuran, etc.), cellosolves (methyl cellosolve, ethyl cellosolve, etc.), carbitols ( Carbitol, diethylene glycol dimethyl ether, etc.).
- These hydrophilic solvents can be used alone or in combination of two or more.
- water, C 1-3 alcohols such as ethanol
- ketones such as acetone
- the method for extracting the water-soluble yarn is not particularly limited, but may be a method of immersing in a high-temperature hydrophilic solvent from the viewpoint that the water-soluble yarn can be efficiently removed by a simple method.
- the extracted water may be neutral, or may be an alkali or acidic aqueous solution.
- the aqueous solution which added surfactant etc. may be sufficient.
- the extraction treatment temperature can be adjusted according to the type of fiber constituting the water-soluble yarn, the solubility in the solvent, the shape and thickness of the yarn, etc., and from the point of removal efficiency, it is higher than the temperature (dissolution temperature) at which dissolution starts abruptly It is preferable to carry out the treatment at a temperature of 5 to 20 ° C., especially about 10 to 20 ° C. higher than the melting temperature.
- the water-soluble yarn is formed from water-soluble polyvinyl alcohol fibers having a water dissolution temperature of 80 ° C.
- the treatment with water at a temperature of 85 to 100 ° C. can quickly remove the water-soluble yarn in a short time. And dissolved and removed from the composite twisted yarn.
- the treatment temperature is too low, the extractability of the water-soluble yarn is not sufficient and the productivity is lowered. If the treatment temperature is too high, the dissolution time of the water-soluble yarn becomes extremely short, and the quality of the woven or knitted fabric tends to deteriorate.
- the ratio of the hydrophilic solvent is 2 times (mass basis) or more with respect to the composite twisted yarn, for example, 2 to 1000 times, preferably 3 to 100 times, more preferably about 5 to 50 times. If the amount of the hydrophilic solvent is too small, the removal of the water-soluble yarn becomes insufficient. In addition, when extraction removal is inadequate, you may extract and remove a water-soluble thread
- the extraction processing time can be appropriately adjusted according to the purpose, the apparatus to be used, and the processing temperature. However, considering production efficiency, stability, quality / performance of the obtained knitted fabric, for example, 1 to 300 minutes. It is preferably about 3 to 200 minutes, more preferably about 5 to 100 minutes (particularly 10 to 60 minutes).
- the processing equipment for performing the extraction treatment is not particularly limited, when the water-soluble yarn is dissolved and removed using the hook of the yarn dyeing machine, the water-soluble yarn can be efficiently dissolved and removed.
- dyeing of the swollen yarn obtained by dissolving and removing the water-soluble yarn using the same kettle after dissolving and removing the water-soluble yarn may be performed subsequently.
- the water-soluble yarn After the water-soluble yarn is dissolved and removed from the composite twisted yarn or the yarn containing the composite twisted yarn, it is preferably washed with water in order to remove components of the water-soluble yarn adhering to the yarn.
- Expanded spinning single yarn that has been subjected to such expansion processing, depending on the use of the yarn, etc., under conditions that do not reduce swelling, lightness, heat retention, water absorption, texture, etc.
- the swollen yarn of the present invention is suitable for a method of dyeing a yarn before producing a woven or knitted fabric because it has undergone a water-soluble yarn extraction process in which the color of the dyed yarn is likely to change and fade.
- the swollen yarn after the extraction treatment of the water-soluble yarn may be naturally dried, but is preferably dried by heating from the viewpoint of improving the texture and breathability of the swollen yarn.
- the drying temperature can be appropriately selected according to the type of fiber constituting the woven or knitted fabric, and is, for example, about 50 ° C. or higher, preferably 60 to 200 ° C., more preferably 70 to 150 ° C. (especially 80 to 120 ° C.).
- the drying time is, for example, about 0.5 minutes to 24 hours, preferably about 1 minute to 10 hours, and more preferably about 3 minutes to 5 hours.
- the swollen yarn of the present invention (swollen spun single yarn that has been swollen) obtained by removing the water-soluble yarn by the above method has a small torque.
- the expanded yarn of the present invention is a raw yarn for producing a woven or knitted fabric, and is required to have excellent warping and weaving and knitting properties. In order to improve warping and weaving and knitting, it is usually preferable to reduce the torque, and in order to reduce the torque, a heat set (heat treatment such as a steam set) is effective.
- the expanded yarn of the present invention may be subjected to a conventional heat treatment. However, as described above, the expanded yarn of the present invention has a small torque, so that the heat treatment for reducing the torque is substantially performed. And can be used as a raw yarn for producing a woven or knitted fabric.
- the swollen yarn of the present invention has a torque index determined by twisting (twisting) when the yarn is suspended with both ends of a 100 cm long yarn fixed at 10 cm in a direction perpendicular to gravity. Specifically, when twisting does not occur or when twisting occurs in this test, the left and right ends of the thread from the uppermost end of the twisted portion (the uppermost end of the looped portion or the portion wound with the spine) The average value of the distance is 30 cm or more. That is, since the swollen yarn of the present invention has such a low torque index, it can improve warping and weaving and knitting properties, improve the productivity of the woven and knitted fabric, and produce an excellent woven and knitted fabric that does not go through. it can.
- the average value of the distance from the uppermost end of the twisted portion to the left and right ends of the yarn is preferably 35 cm or more, more preferably 40 cm or more (especially 45 cm or more), and the most preferable state is that no twisting occurs. If the average value is too small, the torque is too strong, and warping and weaving / knitting properties deteriorate.
- the expanded yarn of the present invention has a B value represented by the following formula of, for example, about 3 to 8, preferably about 3.1 to 7, and more preferably about 3.2 to 6 (particularly 3.3 to 5). .
- N1 is the number of twists of the spun single yarn
- N2 is the number of twists of the composite twisted yarn
- D1 is the average diameter of the spun single yarn
- D2 is the average diameter of the swollen spun single yarn
- the B value is an index representing the relationship between the number of twists and swelling (yarn volume).
- the B value is small, the composite twisted yarn has a small number of twists even though the twist number is small.
- the volume is large even though the number of twists of the composite twisted yarn is large.
- the B value is in the above range, an expanded yarn having a small volume and a suitable volume can be obtained.
- the diameter of the expanded spun single yarn may be 1.2 times or more, preferably 1.3 to 2 times the diameter of the spun single yarn before expansion processing, Preferably it is about 1.4 to 1.8 times.
- expanded yarn for producing the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention include expanded yarns (I) and (IIa) to (IId) shown below.
- Dissolved and removed expanded yarn From the yarn (d) obtained by twisting one or more composite twisted yarns obtained by twisting a spun single yarn and a water-soluble yarn and the other yarns, the water-soluble yarn in the yarn (d) is washed with water. Dissolved puffed yarn (IId)
- the expanded yarn (I) obtained by dissolving and removing the water-soluble yarn from the composite twisted yarn with a hydrophilic solvent is not limited, and the expanded yarns (IIa) to (IId) are also the same as the expanded yarn (I).
- the yarns (a) to (d) before the water-soluble yarn is dissolved and removed are formed using a composite twisted yarn that satisfies the twist characteristics and mass ratio.
- the swollen yarns after dissolution and removal are all swelled compared to the single spun yarn before removing the water-soluble yarns, and are excellent in texture, lightness, heat retention, water absorption, and sustain these performances. Excellent pilling, less fluffing and excellent pilling resistance.
- the yarn (a) used in the production of the expanded yarn (IIa) includes extraction process workability, ease of dissolving and removing the water-soluble yarn, and weaving of the expanded yarn (IIa) obtained by dissolving and removing the water-soluble yarn. From the viewpoint of knitting properties, for example, a yarn in which about 2 to 4, preferably 2 to 3, more preferably about 2 composite twisted yarns are aligned is preferable.
- the yarn (b) used for the production of the expanded yarn (IIb) As the yarn (b) used for the production of the expanded yarn (IIb), the workability of the extraction process, the ease of dissolving and removing the water-soluble yarn, the weaving and knitting properties of the resulting expanded yarn, the ease of twisting by the number of krills From these points, for example, a yarn obtained by twisting 2 to 5, preferably 2 to 4, more preferably about 2 to 3 composite twisted yarns is preferable.
- the twisting direction of the two or more composite twisted yarns in the yarn (b) may be the same as the twisting direction of the composite twisted yarn, but the reverse direction is preferable from the viewpoint that torque can be reduced.
- the number of twists of the yarn (b) is, for example, from the viewpoints of workability of the extraction process, ease of dissolution and removal of the water-soluble yarn, weaving and knitting of the resulting expanded yarn, stability of the twist, expression of texture, etc. 30 to 300 times / m, preferably 40 to 250 times / m, more preferably about 50 to 200 times / m.
- the yarn (c) used for the production of the expanded yarn (IIc) as other yarn to be aligned with the composite twisted yarn, depending on the use of the expanded yarn, for example, various spun yarns other than the composite twisted yarn, natural fibers, synthetic fibers, Examples thereof include filament yarns formed of semi-synthetic fibers. These other yarns can be used alone or in combination of two or more.
- a yarn (spun yarn or filament yarn) formed of a synthetic fiber such as a polyester resin or a polyamide resin is preferable from the viewpoint of increasing the strength of the yarn and improving the form stability.
- the thickness of the other yarn is not particularly limited, but is, for example, about 20 to 350 dtex, preferably about 20 to 180 dtex, from the viewpoint of easy availability and expression of texture.
- the yarn (c) may be a yarn obtained by aligning one or more composite twisted yarns and one or more other yarns, for example, a combination of one composite twisted yarn and one other yarn, It may be a combination of two composite twisted yarns and two or more other yarns, a combination of two or more composite twisted yarns and one or more other yarns, or the like.
- Other yarns are preferably aligned.
- the same spun yarn or filament yarn as the yarn (c) can be used as the other yarn to be twisted with the composite twisted yarn.
- the thickness of the other thread can also be selected from the same thickness as the thread (c).
- the yarn (d) may be a yarn obtained by twisting one or more composite twisted yarns and one or more other yarns, for example, a combination of one composite twisted yarn and one other yarn, It may be a combination of one composite twisted yarn and two or more other yarns, a combination of two or more composite twisted yarns and one or more other yarns, or the like.
- 1 to 3 composite twisted yarns and 1 to 3 twisted yarns in terms of workability of extraction processing, ease of dissolving and removing water-soluble yarn, weaving and knitting of the resulting expanded yarn, and ease of twisting.
- Other yarns are preferably twisted together.
- the direction of twisting of the composite twisted yarn and the other yarn in the yarn (d) is preferably the reverse direction as in the case of the yarn (b), and the number of twists can be selected from the same number of twists as in the yarn (b).
- the expanded yarn of the present invention is a raw yarn for producing a woven or knitted fabric, and is preferably prepared as a wound yarn wound in a hook or tube shape and used for producing a woven or knitted fabric.
- the swollen yarn of the present invention has a reduced torque and improved texture and lightness by sufficiently removing the water-soluble yarn constituting the composite twisted yarn.
- a trace amount of water-soluble yarn may remain as long as torque is not generated and the texture is not impaired.
- the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention includes the expanded yarn.
- the ratio of the swollen yarn in the woven or knitted fabric can be adjusted according to the type and use of the woven or knitted fabric, and the performance required for the woven or knitted fabric (feel, lightness, heat retention, water absorption, flexibility, feeling of swelling, etc.)
- it is preferably contained in an amount of 10% by mass or more based on the total mass of the woven or knitted fabric.
- the proportion of the swollen yarn is 20% by mass or more (for example, 20 to 100% by mass), preferably 30% by mass or more (for example, 30 to 100% by mass), more preferably 40% by mass with respect to the total mass of the woven or knitted fabric. It is about mass% or more (for example, 40 to 100 mass%).
- a composite twisted yarn may be used for a part of the woven or knitted fabric when used only for the weft of the woven fabric.
- the ratio of the expanded yarn is, for example, 10 to 80 with respect to the total mass of the woven or knitted fabric.
- the mass may be about 20% by mass, preferably about 20 to 70% by mass, and more preferably about 30 to 60% by mass.
- the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it contains the expanded yarn.
- the woven fabric examples include a plain woven fabric (flat ground), a twill woven fabric (Ayaji), a satin woven fabric (red satin fabric), a jacquard woven fabric, a pile woven fabric, a diagonal fabric, a satin woven fabric, denim, and gingham. It is only necessary to include a warp and a weft in the woven fabric, for example, a fabric in which the warp and the weft are swollen yarn, a fabric in which the warp or the weft is a swollen yarn, a part of the warp and / or a weft A woven fabric in which a part of the yarn is expanded yarn.
- the knitted fabric examples include a flat knitted fabric, a warp knitted fabric, a circular knitted fabric, and a pile knitted fabric. Furthermore, the knitted fabric may be a machine knitted fabric, a crochet knitted fabric, a bar needle knitted fabric, an Afghan knitted fabric, or the like. When the expanded yarn of the present invention is used, even if a knitted fabric such as a single knit is knitted, the mesh can be knitted densely without skew.
- pile knitted fabrics such as pile woven fabrics and pile knitted fabrics preferably contain the expanded yarn of the present invention as pile yarn.
- the pile woven knitted fabric towel fabric, wiping
- the pile woven knitted fabric has a good texture and is light and breathable. Cloth).
- the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention can be produced by a conventional method, the obtained woven or knitted fabric may be subjected to a scouring treatment or a heat treatment, if necessary, but it is swollen, textured, lightweight, breathable, and warm. It is preferable to avoid a process (such as excessive pulling or calendering) that deteriorates properties such as property and water absorption.
- stabilizers thermal stabilizer, ultraviolet absorber, light stabilizer, antioxidant, etc.
- fine particles colorant, antistatic agent, flame retardant, plasticizer, lubrication
- An additive such as an agent and a crystallization rate retarder may be contained. These additives can be used alone or in combination of two or more. These additives may be contained in any of the yarns (eg, expanded yarn) constituting the woven or knitted fabric and the woven or knitted fabric.
- the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is light and volume, soft and excellent in touch, excellent in breathability, heat retention and water absorption, excellent in sustainability of these performances, and has no fluffing and excellent pilling resistance. Therefore, taking advantage of such excellent properties, for example, sports apparel, underwear, foundation, jeans, outerwear, other apparel, medical applications such as elastic bandages, vehicle interior materials, belt conveyor fabrics, other industries It can be used effectively for materials.
- processed spun yarn obtained by dissolving and removing water-soluble yarn with water from the composite twisted yarn with respect to the average diameter of the spun yarn used for the manufacture of the composite twisted yarn ( The ratio of the average diameter and the B value of the swollen spun yarn or spun spun yarn) were determined by the following method, and the texture was evaluated by the following method. Furthermore, as an evaluation of the weaving / knitting property, the torque index of the raw yarn for producing the weaving / knitting was measured by the following method.
- FIG. 1 is an electron micrograph of an expanded yarn in Example 1, where the upper yarn is an expanded microscopic yarn, and the lower yarn is an electron micrograph of a single spun yarn used in the production of the composite twisted yarn in the Example.
- B value of processed spun yarn The number of twists (N1) of the original spun single yarn and the number of twists (N2) of the composite twisted yarn are measured by a method based on JIS L1095. From the measured number of twists, the average diameter (D1) of the original spun single yarn obtained in (1) above, and the average diameter (D2) of the swollen spun single yarn, the B value was calculated based on the following formula: .
- N1 is the number of twists of the spun single yarn
- N2 is the number of twists of the composite twisted yarn
- D1 is the average diameter of the spun single yarn
- D2 is the average diameter of the swollen spun single yarn
- Torque index of raw yarn Cut the raw yarn to be used for the production of the woven or knitted fabric into a length of 100 cm, fix both ends in a direction orthogonal to the gravity, and hang the yarn. If there is torque, torsion is generated (to wind the tuna), and when the twisting motion (toggle winding) stops, the distance from the uppermost end of the torsion part (twisted part) to the left and right ends of the thread ( cm) was measured, and the average value of the two was used as a torque index. When no torsion occurred, it was described as “no torque”.
- a yarn of a predetermined length (1 m) is cut from each composite twisted yarn obtained in (2) above to obtain a sample yarn, the upper twist of the sample yarn is released, and a spun single yarn and a water-soluble yarn It was separated into two types of yarns, the mass of each separated yarn was measured, and the proportion of each yarn in the composite twisted yarn was determined from the measurement results. It consisted of 12% by weight of yarn.
- Each composite twisted yarn obtained in (2) above is wound on a dyed bobbin and then compressed from above to a fiber density of 0.3 g / cm 3.
- the wound composite twisted yarn is placed in a hook for a dyeing machine.
- the raw cotton (cotton fiber) is removed from the processed spun yarn obtained by dissolving and removing the water-soluble yarn in the composite twisted yarn with water, and the processed spun yarn is used for the production of the woven or knitted fabric. I could not.
- the electron micrograph (25 times magnification) of the swollen yarn obtained in Example 1 and the original spun single yarn (“TS20 single yarn” manufactured by Tsuzuki Spinning Co., Ltd.) used in the production is shown in FIG. Show.
- the upper yarn is an expanded spun yarn
- the lower yarn is the original spun single yarn (“TS20 single yarn” manufactured by Tsuzuki Spinning Co., Ltd.).
- a double twister (“36M” manufactured by Murata Machinery Co., Ltd.) is prepared by combining the double yarn (spun yarn) produced in (i) of (1) and the water-soluble yarn prepared in (ii) of (1).
- To produce a composite twisted yarn with a twist number (upper twist number) of 1000 turns / m (Z twist) [a ratio of the twist number N2 of the composite twisted yarn and the twisted number N1 of the spun yarn] (N2 / N1) about 1.7].
- a yarn of a predetermined length (1 m) is cut from the composite twisted yarn obtained in (2) above to obtain a sample yarn, and the upper twist of the sample yarn is released, and a spun yarn (double yarn) and a water-soluble yarn Were measured, and the mass of each separated yarn was measured, and the proportion of each yarn in the composite twisted yarn was determined from the measurement results.
- the composite twisted yarn was 85% by weight of spun yarn (twist yarn) and It consisted of 15% by weight of water-soluble yarn.
- the composite twisted yarn obtained in (2) above is wound around a dyed bobbin and then compressed from above to obtain a fiber density of 0.3 g / cm 3.
- the wound composite twisted yarn is placed in a kettle for a dyeing machine at 95 ° C. After the water-soluble yarn in the composite twisted yarn was dissolved and removed for 15 minutes in the hot water, it was washed thoroughly with water at 50 ° C. and then dried with hot air at 90 ° C. for 90 minutes to obtain a processed spun yarn. .
- a yarn of a predetermined length (1 m) is cut from the composite twisted yarn obtained in (2) above to obtain a sample yarn, and the upper twist of the sample yarn is released, and a spun yarn (double yarn) and a water-soluble yarn was measured, and the mass of each separated yarn was measured, and the proportion of each yarn in the composite twisted yarn was determined from the measurement result.
- the composite twisted yarn was 84% by weight of spun yarn (double yarn). And 16% by mass of water-soluble yarn.
- the composite twisted yarn obtained in (2) above is wound around a dyed bobbin and then compressed from above to obtain a fiber density of 0.3 g / cm 3.
- the wound composite twisted yarn is placed in a kettle for a dyeing machine at 95 ° C. After removing the water-soluble yarn from the composite twisted yarn for 15 minutes in the hot water, it was washed thoroughly with 50 ° C water and then dried with hot air at 90 ° C for 90 minutes to obtain a processed spun yarn. It was.
- Table 3 shows the results of evaluating the average diameter ratio and B value feeling of the processed spun yarn obtained in (4) above.
- a yarn of a predetermined length (1 m) is cut from the composite twisted yarn obtained in the above (2), used as a sample yarn, the upper twist of the sample yarn is released, and two types of spinning single yarn and water-soluble yarn The mass of each separated yarn was measured, and the proportion of each yarn in the composite twisted yarn was determined from the measurement result.
- the composite twisted yarn was 98.5% by mass of spun single yarn and water-soluble yarn 1 .5% by mass.
- the composite twisted yarn obtained in (2) above is wound around a dyed bobbin and then compressed from above to obtain a fiber density of 0.3 g / cm 3.
- the wound composite twisted yarn is placed in a kettle for a dyeing machine at 95 ° C. After removing the water-soluble yarn from the composite twisted yarn for 15 minutes in the hot water, it was washed thoroughly with 50 ° C water and then dried with hot air at 90 ° C for 90 minutes to obtain a processed spun yarn. It was.
- a yarn of a predetermined length (1 m) is cut from the composite twisted yarn obtained in the above (2), used as a sample yarn, the upper twist of the sample yarn is released, and two types of spinning single yarn and water-soluble yarn The mass of each separated yarn was measured, and the proportion of each yarn in the composite twisted yarn was determined from the measurement results.
- the composite twisted yarn was 17% by mass of spun single yarn and 83% by mass of water-soluble yarn. It consisted of%.
- the processed spun yarns of Examples 1 to 5 all had a B value in an appropriate range and excellent texture. Further, the processed spun yarns of Examples 1 to 5 had low torque and excellent weaving and knitting properties.
- the number of twists of the upper twist (A) in the composite twisted yarn was 1.0 times the number of twists of the spun single yarn (twisted number of the lower twist) (B).
- the raw cotton (cotton fiber) was removed from the processed spun yarn, and the processed spun yarn could not be used for the production of the woven or knitted fabric.
- the number of twists (A) of the upper twist in the composite twisted yarn is 3.5 times the number of twists of the spun single yarn (number of twists of the lower twist) (B).
- the number was large and the torque was too strong, the processability when producing the composite twisted yarn was poor, and the composite twisted yarn could not be produced smoothly.
- Comparative Example 3 a composite twisted yarn obtained by twisting a spun yarn that is a twin yarn and a water-soluble yarn was used.
- Comparative Example 4 a composite twisted yarn obtained by twisting two spun yarns (spun single yarn) and a water-soluble yarn was used. Therefore, the processed spun yarn obtained by dissolving and removing the water-soluble yarn in the composite twisted yarn with water was less swollen, lacked softness and did not have a good texture compared to the original spun yarn. .
- the degree of swelling of the woven or knitted fabric Using the spun yarn used to obtain the swollen spun yarn (original spun yarn prior to swollen processing), for knitted fabrics and fabrics, for smooth knitted fabrics, circular knitting machines (manufactured by Fukuhara Seiki Co., Ltd.) LIL4 ”), pile knitting machine using pile knitting machine (“ PLII ”manufactured by Fukuhara Seiki Co., Ltd.), and textile fabric using ultra-high speed rapier loom (“ Beat Max 1001 ”manufactured by Ishikawa Seisakusho Co., Ltd.).
- the test piece was taken out from the thermo-hygrostat, the mass (W 2 ) (mg) was measured, the moisture content (%) remaining on the test piece was determined based on the following formula, and dried. It was used as an index of sex. It shows that it is easy to dry, so that the value of the residual moisture content (%) is small.
- Residual water content (%) ⁇ (W 2 ⁇ W 0 ) / (W 1 ⁇ W 0 ) ⁇ ⁇ 100.
- Examples 6 to 8 Using the processed spun yarn (E2), (E3) or (E4) obtained in Examples 2 to 4 alone, knitting a smooth fabric with a 14G ⁇ 30 inch circular knitting machine, and the resulting smooth The knitted fabric was scoured in a bath with a 95 ° C. continuous scourer and dried with a hot air dryer at 150 ° C. Table 5 shows the results of evaluating or measuring the texture, degree of swelling, pilling, water absorption and drying properties of the obtained smooth knitted fabric.
- Example 9 The processed spun yarn (E2) obtained in Example 2 and a 20th spun single yarn of 100% cotton fiber with a twist number of 600 times / m (Z twist) (“TS20 single yarn” manufactured by Tsuzuki Spinning Co., Ltd.)
- the ratio is 1/1 (the ratio of the processed spun yarn (E2) is 48% by mass), and in Example 10, the ratio is 1/3 (the ratio of the processed spun yarn (E2) is 24% by mass).
- the smooth fabric was knitted with a 30-inch circular knitting machine, and the resulting smooth knitted fabric was scoured in a bath with a 95 ° C. continuous scourer and dried with a hot air dryer at 150 ° C.
- Table 5 shows the results of evaluating or measuring the texture, degree of swelling, pilling, water absorption and drying properties of the obtained smooth knitted fabric.
- Comparative Example 7 Using only 20th spun single yarn (“TS20 single yarn” manufactured by Tsuzuki Spinning Co., Ltd.) with 100% cotton fiber of 600 turns / m (Z twist), a 14G ⁇ 30 inch circular knitting machine The smooth fabric was knitted, and the resulting smooth knitted fabric was scoured in a bath with a continuous scourer at 95 ° C. and dried with a hot air dryer at 150 ° C. Table 5 shows the results of evaluating or measuring the texture, degree of swelling, pilling, water absorption and drying properties of the smooth knitted fabric thus obtained.
- TS20 single yarn manufactured by Tsuzuki Spinning Co., Ltd.
- Table 5 shows the results of evaluating or measuring the texture, degree of swelling, pilling, water absorption and drying properties of the smooth knitted fabric thus obtained.
- the ratio of the spun yarn after processing to the average diameter of the original spun single yarn used for producing the composite twisted yarn was 1.3.
- the texture was evaluated as 4.0.
- the processed spun yarn with respect to the average diameter of the original spun single yarn used for the production of the composite twisted yarn was used.
- the ratio of the spun single yarn was 1.5, and the evaluation of the feeling was 4.8. This result is because the water-soluble yarn is dissolved and removed at the yarn stage, so that the swelling is smoothly performed, or the degree of swelling is larger than the yarn obtained by dissolving and removing the water-soluble yarn in the woven or knitted state. Is shown.
- Comparative Example 1 13 cm
- Comparative Example 2 7 cm
- Comparative Example 3 13 cm
- Comparative Example 4 9 cm
- Comparative Example 5 8 cm
- Comparative Example 6 15 cm, both of which were strong in torque.
- the smooth knitted fabric was produced by using the processed spun yarn (expanded spun yarn) obtained in Examples 2-4 alone. Alternatively, it was obtained in Reference Example 1 or Reference Example 2 in which the composite twisted yarn obtained in (2) of Example 3 was used alone to produce a smooth knitted fabric, and then the water-soluble yarn in the knitted fabric was dissolved and removed with water.
- Example 11 The processed spun yarn (E2) obtained in Example 2 was used as a pile yarn, and the number of twists was 600 times / m (Z twist).
- a pile knitted fabric was produced using a 20G sinker pile machine (sinker length 1.7 mm) using a single yarn ”) as the ground yarn.
- the pile knitted fabric thus obtained was scoured in a bath with a continuous scouring machine at 95 ° C. and dried with a hot air dryer at 150 ° C.
- Table 6 shows the results of evaluation or measurement of the texture, swelling degree, pilling, water absorption, drying property, and fluffing property of the obtained pile knitted fabric.
- Comparative Example 8 >> 20G sinker pile machine using 20th-number spun single yarn (“TS20 single yarn” manufactured by Tsuzuki Spinning Co., Ltd.) with 100% cotton fiber of 600 times / m (Z twist) as pile yarn and ground yarn.
- a pile knitted fabric was produced using a sinker length of 1.7 mm).
- the pile knitted fabric thus obtained was scoured in a bath with a continuous scouring machine at 95 ° C. and dried with a hot air dryer at 150 ° C.
- Table 5 shows the results of evaluating or measuring the texture, swelling degree, water absorption, drying property, and fluffing property of the pile knitted fabric thus obtained.
- Example 11 a pile knitted fabric was produced using the processed spun yarn (expanded spun yarn) obtained in Example 2 as a pile yarn and a cotton spun single yarn as the ground yarn.
- the processed spun yarn expanded spun yarn obtained in Example 2
- a cotton spun single yarn obtained in Example 2
- Comparative Example 8 in which a pile knitted fabric was produced using a cotton spun single yarn as the pile yarn and the ground yarn, it was excellent in all of the texture, the degree of swelling, the water absorption and the dryness, and the fluff The drop rate is small.
- Example 12 40 yarns of cotton spun single yarn obtained in Comparative Example 3 was used as the warp, and the processed spun yarn (E2) obtained in Example 2 was used as the weft. : 1/3 twill fabric of 23 pcs / cm was produced (the proportion of the processed spun yarn (E2) in the fabric was 45% by mass), and the resulting fabric was scoured in a bath with a continuous scourer at 95 ° C. It dried with a 150 degreeC hot-air dryer. Table 7 shows the results of evaluation or measurement of the texture, swelling degree, pilling, water absorption, and drying properties of the obtained woven fabric.
- Comparative Example 9 A 40th cotton spun single yarn is used as a warp, and a 20th spun single yarn (TS20 single yarn manufactured by Tsuzuki Spinning Co., Ltd.) with 100% cotton fiber is twisted 600 times / m (Z twist). Is used as a weft to produce a 1/3 twill fabric of warp: 24 / cm, weft: 23 / cm, and the resulting fabric is scoured in a bath at 95 ° C. in a continuous scourer. It dried with the hot air dryer. Table 7 shows the results of evaluation or measurement of the texture, swelling degree, pilling, water absorption, and drying properties of the obtained woven fabric.
- Example 12 a 1/3 twill fabric was produced using the 40th cotton spun single yarn as the warp and the processed spun yarn (E2) obtained in Example 2 as the weft.
- Reference Example 3 in which a 1/3 twill woven fabric was produced using 40 count cotton double yarn as warp and the composite twisted yarn obtained in (2) of Example 2 as weft, and then the water-soluble yarn in the twill woven fabric was dissolved and removed with water.
- the twill fabric is superior in texture to the twill fabric obtained in 1), has a higher degree of swelling, and is further superior in terms of water absorption and drying properties.
- the twill fabric obtained in Example 12 has a texture, a degree of swelling, a water absorption and a drying property as compared with the twill fabric of Comparative Example 9 produced using a normal cotton spun yarn that has not been expanded. Is significantly better.
- Example 13 [3] Manufacture of processed spun yarn and knitted fabric ⁇ Example 13 >> (1) Composite twisted yarn obtained in (2) of Example 2 [twisting number 600 times / m (Z-twisted) 100% cotton fiber 20th spun single yarn (manufactured by Tsuzuki Spinning Co., Ltd.
- TS20 single yarn And one polyvinyl alcohol multifilament yarn (" Water-soluble vinylon "manufactured by Kuraray Co., Ltd., yarn dissolved in water at 80 ° C, 38 dtex / 12 filament), double twister (Murata Kikai Co., Ltd.” 36M )) And two twisted yarns manufactured by twisting in the S direction at a twist number of 900 turns / m (upper twist number)] are supplied to a double twister ("36M” manufactured by Murata Machinery Co., Ltd.). Then, a twisted yarn of composite twisted yarn was manufactured by twisting in the Z direction at a twist number of 180 times / m.
- Example 13 in the composite twisted yarn in which the spun single yarn and the water-soluble yarn are twisted in the direction opposite to the twisted direction of the spun single yarn, the number of twists of the composite twisted yarn is the twist of the spun single yarn.
- the ratio is 1.3 to 3 times the number, and the proportion of spun single yarn is 98 to 20% by mass and the proportion of water-soluble yarn is 2 to 80% by mass.
- a swollen spun yarn having a good texture is obtained which is greatly swollen (swelled), softer than the original spun single yarn.
- Example 14 Using the processed spun yarn (E13) obtained in Example 13 alone, a smooth fabric is knitted by a 14 G ⁇ 30 inch circular knitting machine, and the resulting smooth knitted fabric is subjected to a continuous scouring machine at 95 ° C. It was scoured in a bath and dried with a hot air dryer at 150 ° C. Table 9 shows the results of evaluation or measurement of the texture, degree of swelling, pilling, water absorption and drying properties of the smooth knitted fabric thus obtained.
- Example 14 the smooth knitted fabric was produced using the processed spun yarn (E13) (expanded spun yarn) obtained in Example 13 alone.
- the obtained smooth knitted fabric was compared with the smooth knitted fabric of Comparative Example 10 manufactured by using a double yarn obtained by twisting two normal cotton spun yarns that had not been subjected to expansion processing. It is greatly excellent in the property and drying property.
- the swollen yarn of the present invention has a larger swelling than the original spun yarn, is soft and excellent in texture, has excellent breathability, heat retention and water absorption, has no fluffing, and is excellent in weaving and weaving.
- the woven or knitted fabric obtained using the expanded yarn of the present invention is light and volumey, soft and excellent in touch, heat retention and breathability, is not prone to pilling, has no fluffing, and moreover. High water absorption. Therefore, the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention makes use of such characteristics, for example, for sports apparel, underwear, foundations, jeans, outerwear, other apparel, medical use such as elastic bandages, vehicle interior materials, and belt conveyors. It can be effectively used in a wide range of applications such as fabrics and other industrial materials.
Abstract
Description
(式中、N1は紡績単糸の撚数、N2は複合撚糸の撚数、D1は紡績単糸の平均直径、D2は膨化紡績単糸の平均直径を示す)。
本発明の膨化糸は、膨化加工された膨化紡績単糸を含む。詳細には、本発明の膨化糸は、紡績単糸と水溶性糸とを前記紡績単糸の撚方向と逆の方向に撚り合わせた複合撚糸から水溶性糸を親水性溶媒で溶解除去して得られた膨化紡績単糸を含む。
本発明の膨化糸において、水溶性糸を溶解除去する前の複合撚糸を構成する紡績糸は、繊維(原綿)を用いて紡績したままの「単糸」(すなわち紡績単糸)であることが必要である。複合撚糸を構成する紡績糸が、双糸、三子糸、四子糸などの2本以上の紡績糸を撚り合せた紡績糸であると、これらの紡績糸を水溶性糸と撚り合せて製造した複合撚糸中の水溶性糸を親水性溶媒で溶解除去しても、水溶性糸の除去した後に残留する紡績糸は撚りが残っているため膨らみが小さく、軽量性、保温性、吸水性などに劣り、柔らかな風合に乏しく、本発明の目的を達成することができない。
複合撚糸を構成する水溶性糸としては、親水性溶媒に対する溶解性を有していれば特に限定されないが、特に、大気圧下で、水の沸騰温度(約100℃)までの温度で水(熱水)に対して溶解する糸が好ましい。このような水溶性糸を含む複合撚糸から得られた織編物は、水溶性糸を水などの親水性溶媒で容易に溶解除去でき、取扱性などにも優れている。特に、水溶性糸としては、水溶性糸自体を単独で温度80℃以上(特に90℃以上)の熱水に浸漬して30分間放置したときに、浸漬前の水溶性糸の質量に対して、85質量%以上(特に95質量%以上)が前記熱水に溶解する水溶性糸(水不溶性の残渣が15質量%未満、特に5質量%未満である水溶性糸)が好ましい。水溶性糸の水溶解性が低いと、複合撚糸を用いて製造した織編物を水などの親水性溶媒で処理しても、複合撚糸中の水溶性糸を充分に溶解除去できず、軽量でボリュームがあり、非常に柔らかくて触感に優れる織編物を製造可能な膨化糸が得られ難くなる。
水溶性糸は、水溶性である限りは、紡績糸であってもよく、フィラメント糸(長繊維)であってもよい。親水性溶媒で溶解除去し易い点からは、フィラメント糸が好ましい。さらに、水溶性糸の混率の低い複合撚糸であっても、複合撚糸を水などの親水性溶媒で処理して水溶性糸を溶解除去する際に水溶性糸の除去が速やかに且つ良好に行うことができる点、細い番手の紡績単糸を使用し易い点、複合撚糸における水溶性糸の混率を低くできてコストを低減できる点などから、マルチフィラメント糸が特に好ましい。
複合撚糸において、紡績単糸及び水溶性糸の本数(糸本数)は、膨化糸及び織編物の風合、軽量性、膨らみ、撚糸機のクリル本数の制限、品質管理の点から、紡績単糸は1本とする必要があり、水溶性糸が1~3本(特に1~2本)であるのが好ましい。
本発明では、複合撚糸から、複合撚糸中の水溶性糸を親水性溶媒で抽出(溶解除去)することにより、軽量でボリュームのある膨化糸が得られる。抽出処理に供される複合撚糸は、膨化紡績単糸単独で形成された複合撚糸に限定されず、複合撚糸を含む糸、例えば、2本以上の複合撚糸を引き揃えた糸や撚り合わせた糸、1本以上の複合撚糸と1本以上の他の糸とを引き揃えた糸や撚り合わせた糸であってもよい。
前記方法により水溶性糸を除去して得られた本発明の膨化糸(膨化加工された膨化紡績単糸)は、トルクが小さいことを特徴とする。さらに、本発明の膨化糸は、織編物を製造するための原糸であり、優れた整経性や製織編性を要求される。整経性や製織編性を向上させるためには、通常、トルクを低減させるのが好ましく、トルクを低減させるためには、ヒートセット(スチームセットなどの加熱処理)が有効である。これに対して、本発明の膨化糸も慣用の加熱処理を施してもよいが、前述のように、本発明の膨化糸はトルクが小さいため、トルクを低減するための熱処理を実質的に施すことなく、織編物を製造するための原糸として利用できる。
(式中、N1は紡績単糸の撚数、N2は複合撚糸の撚数、D1は紡績単糸の平均直径、D2は膨化紡績単糸の平均直径を示す)。
(IIa)紡績単糸と水溶性糸とを撚り合せた複合撚糸の2本以上を引き揃えた糸(a)から、前記糸(a)中の水溶性糸を水で溶解除去した膨化糸(IIa)
(IIb)紡績単糸と水溶性糸とを撚り合せた複合撚糸の2本以上を撚り合せた糸(b)から、前記糸(b)中の水溶性糸を水で溶解除去した膨化糸(IIb)
(IIc)紡績単糸と水溶性糸とを撚り合せた複合撚糸の1本以上と、他の糸とを引揃えた糸(c)から、前記糸(c)中の水溶性糸を水で溶解除去した膨化糸(IIc)
(IId)紡績単糸と水溶性糸とを撚り合せた複合撚糸の1本以上と、他の糸とを撚り合せた糸(d)から、前記糸(d)中の水溶性糸を水で溶解除去した膨化糸(IId)
本発明では、複合撚糸から水溶性糸を親水性溶媒で溶解除去して得られる膨化糸(I)に限定されず、膨化糸(IIa)~(IId)も、膨化糸(I)と同様に、水溶性糸を溶解除去する前の前記糸(a)~(d)が、前記撚り特性や質量比を充足する複合撚糸を用いて形成されていることによって、水溶性糸を親水性溶媒で溶解除去した後の膨化糸は、いずれも水溶性糸を除去する前の紡績単糸に比べて膨らみが大きくなり、風合、軽量性、保温性、吸水性に優れるとともに、これらの性能の持続性に優れ、しかも毛羽落ちが少なく、耐ピリング性に優れている。
本発明の織編物は前記膨化糸を含む。織編物における膨化糸の割合は、織編物の種類、用途、織編物に要求される性能(風合、軽量性、保温性、吸水性、柔軟性、膨らみ感など)に応じて調節できるが、膨化糸の特性を発現させるためには、織編物の全質量に対して10質量%以上含まれるのが好ましい。さらに、膨化糸の割合は、織編物の全質量に対して20質量%以上(例えば、20~100質量%)、好ましくは30質量%以上(例えば、30~100質量%)、さらに好ましくは40質量%以上(例えば、40~100質量%)程度である。さらに、織物の緯糸のみに使用する場合など、織編物の一部に複合撚糸を使用してもよく、その場合、膨化糸の割合は、織編物の全質量に対して、例えば、10~80質量%、好ましくは20~70質量%、さらに好ましくは30~60質量%程度であってもよい。
以下の実施例及び比較例において、複合撚糸の製造に用いた紡績糸の平均直径に対する複合撚糸から水溶性糸を水で溶解除去して得られた加工紡績糸(膨化加工紡績糸又は膨化の少ない加工紡績糸)の平均直径の比及びB値を下記の方法で求め、風合いを下記の方法で評価した。さらに、織編性の評価として、織編物を製造するための原糸のトルク指標を下記方法で測定した。
(i)複合撚糸の製造に用いた紡績糸(元の紡績単糸)と、水溶性糸を水で溶解除去した後の加工紡績糸(膨化紡績糸)を、間隔をあけて並列に並べて電子顕微鏡で撮影した(倍率25倍)。図1は、上段の糸が、実施例1での膨化糸の電子顕微鏡写真であり、下段の糸が、実施例での複合撚糸の製造に用いた紡績単糸の電子顕微鏡写真である。
JIS Ll095に準拠した方法で、元の紡績単糸の撚数(N1)及び複合撚糸の撚数(N2)を測定する。測定した撚数と、前記(1)で得られた元の紡績単糸の平均直径(D1)及び膨化紡績単糸の平均直径(D2)とから、下記式に基づいて、B値を算出した。
(式中、N1は紡績単糸の撚数、N2は複合撚糸の撚数、D1は紡績単糸の平均直径、D2は膨化紡績単糸の平均直径を示す)。
複合撚糸の製造に用いた水溶性糸を溶解除去前の紡績糸(元の紡績糸)の風合の評点を3点(基準)とし、表1に示す評価基準にしたがって5名のパネラーが加工紡績糸の風合を評価して、その平均値を採った。
織編物の製造に供する原糸を100cm長に切断し、両端を重力と直交する方向に10cm離した状態で固定して糸を垂らす。トルクがあれば、ねじりを発生するため(とぐろを巻くため)、ねじれる動き(とぐろを巻く動き)が停止したとき、ねじり部(ねじり合った部分)の最上端から糸の左右両端までの距離(cm)を測定し、両者の平均値をトルク指標した。なお、ねじりが発生しない場合は「トルクなし」と表記した。
(1)(i)紡績単糸として、撚数が600回/m(Z撚)の木綿繊維100%の20番手紡績単糸(都築紡績(株)製「TS20単糸」)を準備した。なお、この紡績単糸は、2.54cm当りの撚数T=15.24回であり、番手S=20であることにより、式:K=(T/√S)から求められる撚り係数Kは、15.24/√20=15.24/4.47=3.24である。
(1)(i)撚数が800回/m(Z撚)の木綿繊維100%の40番手紡績糸(紡績単糸)(都築紡績(株)製「TS40単糸」)の2本をダブルツイスター(村田機械(株)製「36M」)に供給して撚数600回/m(S撚)で撚糸して双糸を製造した。
(1)(i)撚数が800回/m(Z撚)の木綿繊維100%の40番手紡績糸(紡績単糸)(都築紡績(株)製「TS40単糸」)を準備した。
(1)(i)撚数が260回/m(Z撚)の木綿繊維100%の5番手紡績糸(紡績単糸)(ミマス(株)製)を準備した。
((株)クラレ製「水溶性ビニロン」、80℃の熱水に溶解する糸、17dtex/6フィラメント)を準備した。
(1)(i)撚数が1500回/m(Z撚)の木綿繊維100%の120番手紡績糸(紡績単糸)[(Royal Textile Mills Ltd.(インド)製「Royal 120」]を準備した。
以下の実施例、比較例及び参考例において、製織編して得られた織編物の風合、膨らみ度、ピリング、吸水性、乾燥性、毛羽落ち性は、以下の方法で測定または評価した。
膨化加工紡績糸を得るために使用したのと同じ紡績糸(膨化加工を行う前の元の紡績糸)を使用して、同じ機械を使用して同じ組織に製編織して得られた織編物の風合の評点を3(基準)として、下記の表4に示す評価基準に従って5名のパネラーが評価し、その平均値を採った。
膨化加工紡績糸を得るために使用した紡績糸(膨化加工を行う前の元の紡績糸)を使用して、編物及び織物について、それぞれスムース編物については丸編機((株)福原精機製「LIL4」)、パイル編物についてはパイル編機((株)福原精機製「PLII」)、織物については超高速レピア織機((株)石川製作所製「ビートマックス1001」)を使用して同じ組織に製編織して得られた織編物を8枚重ねてときの厚さ(D0)(mm)と、実施例、比較例または参考例で得られた織編物を8枚重ねたときの厚さ(D)(mm)から、下記の数式によって織編物の膨らみ度を求めた。
JIS L 1076 A法にしたがって測定した。
JIS L 1907 沈降法にしたがって測定した。沈降時間が短いほど、吸水性が大きいことを示す。
下記の実施例、比較例及び参考例で得られた織編物を縦×横=30mm×30mmのサイズに切断して試験片を作製し、この試験片[質量W0(mg)]の中央に約0.3mLの水を滴下してその時の試験片の質量(W1)(mg)を測定した後、直ちに温度20℃、湿度65%の恒温恒湿槽に入れて60分間放置した。さらに、60分後に恒温恒湿槽から試験片を取り出して、その質量(W2)(mg)を測定し、下記式に基づいて試験片に残留している水分量(%)を求め、乾燥性の指標とした。残留している水分量(%)の値が小さいほど、乾燥し易いことを示す。
約1000gの織編物を温度20℃、湿度65%の雰囲気中に24時間放置し、24時間放置後の織編物の質量(Wa)(g)を測定した後、当該織編物をJIS L 0217 103法にしたがって3回洗濯して乾燥し、乾燥した織編物を温度20℃、湿度65%の雰囲気中に24時間放置し、24時間放置後の織編物の質量(Wb)(g)を測定して、下記式に基づいて、毛羽落ち率(洗濯後の織編物の質量減少率)(%)を求め、毛羽落ち性の指標とした。質量の減少率が小さいほど、毛羽落ちが少ないことを示す。
実施例2~4で得られた加工紡績糸(E2)、(E3)又は(E4)を単独で使用して、14G×30インチの丸編機によるスムース生地を編立てし、得られたスムース編地を95℃の連続精練機で浴中精練し、150℃の熱風乾燥機で乾燥した。得られたスムース編地の風合、膨らみ度、ピリング、吸水性及び乾燥性を評価又は測定した結果を表5に示す。
実施例2で得られた加工紡績糸(E2)と、撚数が600回/m(Z撚)の木綿繊維100%の20番手紡績単糸(都築紡績(株)製「TS20単糸」)を、実施例9では1/1の割合[加工紡績糸(E2)の割合48質量%]、実施例10では1/3の割合[加工紡績糸(E2)の割合24質量%]で14G×30インチの丸編機にてスムース生地を編み立てし、得られたスムース編地を95℃の連続精練機で浴中精練し、150℃の熱風乾燥機で乾燥した。得られたスムース編地の風合、膨らみ度、ピリング、吸水性及び乾燥性を評価又は測定した結果を表5に示す。
撚数が600回/m(Z撚)の木綿繊維100%の20番手紡績単糸(都築紡績(株)製「TS20単糸」)のみを使用して、14G×30インチの丸編機にてスムース生地を編み立てし、得られたスムース編地を95℃の連続精練機で浴中精練し、150℃の熱風乾燥機で乾燥した。これにより得られたスムース編地の風合、膨らみ度、ピリング、吸水性及び乾燥性を評価又は測定した結果を表5に示す。
(1)実施例2の(2)で得られた複合撚糸[撚数が600回/m(Z撚)の木綿繊維100%の20番手紡績単糸(都築紡績(株)製「TS20単糸」)1本とポリビニルアルコールマルチフィラメント糸((株)クラレ製「水溶性ビニロン」、80℃の水に溶解する糸、38dtex/12フィラメント)1本をダブルツイスター(村田機械(株)製「36M」)に供給して、900回/mの撚数(上撚数)でS方向に撚り合わせて製造した複合撚糸]を単独で使用して、14G×30インチの丸編機にてスムース生地を編み立てして複合撚糸からなるスムース編地を製造した。
(1)実施例3の(2)で得られた複合撚糸[撚数が600回/m(Z撚)の木綿繊維100%の20番手紡績単糸(都築紡績(株)製「TS20単糸」)1本とポリビニルアルコールマルチフィラメント糸((株)クラレ製「水溶性ビニロン」、80℃の水に溶解する糸、38dtex/12フィラメント)1本をダブルツイスター(村田機械(株)製「36M」)に供給して、1200回/mの撚数(上撚数)でS方向に撚り合わせて製造した複合撚糸]のトルク指標を測定した結果、トルク指標は8.3cmであり、トルクが強すぎて編み立て性が著しく低かった。そのため、98℃で真空スチームセットを行った後、再度、スチームセットされた複合撚糸のトルク指標を測定した結果、トルク指標は27.5cmであった。
実施例2で得られた加工紡績糸(E2)をパイル糸として用い、撚数が600回/m(Z撚)の木綿繊維100%の20番手紡績単糸(都築紡績(株)製「TS20単糸」)を地糸として用いて、20Gシンカーパイル機(シンカー長1.7mm)を使用してパイル編物を製造した。これにより得られたパイル編地を95℃の連続精練機で浴中精練し、150℃の熱風乾燥機にて乾燥した。得られたパイル編地の風合、膨らみ度、ピリング、吸水性、乾燥性及び毛羽落ち性を評価又は測定した結果を表6に示す。
パイル糸及び地糸として撚数が600回/m(Z撚)の木綿繊維100%の20番手紡績単糸(都築紡績(株)製「TS20単糸」)を用いて、20Gシンカーパイル機(シンカー長1.7mm)を使用してパイル編物を製造した。これにより得られたパイル編地を95℃の連続精練機で浴中精練し、150℃の熱風乾燥機にて乾燥した。これにより得られたパイル編地の風合、膨らみ度、吸水性、乾燥性および毛羽落ち性を評価又は測定し結果を表5に示す。
比較例3で得られた40番手木綿紡績単糸の双糸を経糸として使用し、実施例2で得られた加工紡績糸(E2)を緯糸として使用して、経:24本/cm、緯:23本/cmの1/3綾織物を製造[織物中の加工紡績糸(E2)の占める割合は45質量%]し、得られた織物を95℃の連続精練機で浴中精練し、150℃の熱風乾燥機で乾燥した。得られた織物の風合、膨らみ度、ピリング、吸水性及び乾燥性を評価又は測定した結果を表7に示す。
40番手木綿紡績単糸の双糸を経糸として使用し、撚数が600回/m(Z撚)の木綿繊維100%の20番手紡績単糸(都築紡績(株)製「TS20単糸」)を緯糸として使用して、経:24本/cm、緯:23本/cmの1/3綾織物を製造し、得られた織物を95℃の連続精練機で浴中精練し、150℃の熱風乾燥機で乾燥した。得られた織物の風合、膨らみ度、ピリング、吸水性及び乾燥性を評価又は測定した結果を表7に示す。
(1)40番手木綿紡績単糸の双糸を経糸として使用し、実施例2の(2)で得られた複合撚糸[撚数が600回/m(Z撚)の木綿繊維100%の20番手紡績単糸(都築紡績(株)製「TS20単糸」)1本とポリビニルアルコールマルチフィラメント糸((株)クラレ製「水溶性ビニロン」、80℃の水に溶解する糸、38dtex/12フィラメント)1本をダブルツイスター(村田機械(株)製「36M」)に供給して、900回/mの撚数(上撚数)でS方向に撚り合わせて製造した複合撚糸]を緯糸として使用して、経:24本/cm、緯:23本/cmの1/3綾織物を製造した。
《実施例13》
(1)実施例2の(2)で得られた複合撚糸[撚数が600回/m(Z撚)の木綿繊維100%の20番手紡績単糸(都築紡績(株)製「TS20単糸」)1本とポリビニルアルコールマルチフィラメント糸((株)クラレ製「水溶性ビニロン」、80℃の水に溶解する糸、38dtex/12フィラメント)1本をダブルツイスター(村田機械(株)製「36M」)に供給して、900回/mの撚数(上撚数)でS方向に撚り合わせて製造した複合撚糸]2本をダブルツイスター(村田機械(株)製「36M」)に供給して、Z方向に180回/mの撚数で撚り合せて複合撚糸の双糸を製造した。
実施例13で得られた加工紡績糸(E13)を単独で使用して、14G×30インチの丸編機によるスムース生地を編立てし、得られたスムース編地を95℃の連続精練機で浴中精練し、150℃の熱風乾燥機で乾燥した。これにより得られたスムース編地の風合、膨らみ度、ピリング、吸水性及び乾燥性を評価又は測定した結果を表9に示す。
撚数が600回/m(Z撚)の木綿繊維100%の20番手紡績単糸の双糸[20番手紡績単糸(都築紡績(株)製「TS20単糸」)2本をダブルツイスター(村田機械(株)製「36M」)に供給して、180回/mの撚数(上撚数)でS方向に撚り合わせて製造]のみを使用して、14G×30インチの丸編機にてスムース生地を編み立てし、得られたスムース編地を95℃の連続精練機で浴中精練し、150℃の熱風乾燥機で乾燥した。これにより得られたスムース編地の風合、膨らみ度、ピリング、吸水性及び乾燥性を評価又は測定した結果を表9に示す。
Claims (16)
- 紡績単糸と水溶性糸とを前記紡績単糸の撚方向と逆の方向に撚り合わせた複合撚糸から水溶性糸を親水性溶媒で溶解除去して得られた膨化紡績単糸を含む膨化糸であって、100cm長の糸の両端を重力と直交する方向に10cm離した状態で固定して糸を垂らしたとき、ねじりが発生しないか、又はねじり部の最上端から糸の左右両端までの距離の平均値が30cm以上である膨化糸。
- 織編物を製造するための原糸である請求項1記載の膨化糸。
- 膨化紡績単糸の直径が、膨化加工前の紡績単糸の直径に対して1.2倍以上である請求項1又は2記載の膨化糸。
- トルクを低減するための熱処理が施されていない請求項1~3のいずれかに記載の膨化糸。
- 下記式で表されるB値が3~8である請求項1~4のいずれかに記載の膨化糸。
B=(N2/N1)×(D2/D1)2
(式中、N1は紡績単糸の撚数、N2は複合撚糸の撚数、D1は紡績単糸の平均直径、D2は膨化紡績単糸の平均直径を示す) - 膨化紡績単糸からなる請求項1~5のいずれかに記載の膨化糸。
- 2本以上の複合撚糸を引き揃えるか、撚り合わせた後、前記複合撚糸の水溶性糸を親水性溶媒で溶解除去する請求項1~5のいずれかに記載の膨化糸。
- 1本以上の複合撚糸と1本以上の他の糸とを引き揃えるか、撚り合わせた後、前記複合撚糸の水溶性糸を親水性溶媒で溶解除去する請求項1~5のいずれかに記載の膨化糸。
- 複合撚糸の撚数が、紡績単糸の撚数に対して1.3~3倍であり、かつ紡績単糸と水溶性糸との割合(質量比)が、前者/後者=98/2~20/80である請求項1~8のいずれかに記載の膨化糸。
- 請求項1~9のいずれかに記載の膨化糸を綛状又は管状に巻き取った巻糸。
- 請求項1~9のいずれかに記載の膨化糸を含む織編物。
- 膨化糸の割合が10質量%以上である請求項11記載の織編物。
- 膨化糸をパイル糸として含む請求項11又は12記載の織編物。
- 紡績単糸と水溶性糸とを紡績単糸の撚方向と逆の方向に撚り合わせた複合撚糸から水溶性糸を親水性溶媒で溶解除去する請求項1記載の膨化糸の製造方法。
- 請求項1~9のいずれかに記載の膨化糸を原糸として用いて織編物を製造する方法。
- 請求項1~9のいずれかに記載の膨化糸を先染めする方法。
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JP2008025055A (ja) * | 2006-07-21 | 2008-02-07 | Kuraray Trading Kk | ループパイル織編物 |
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JP2020029629A (ja) * | 2018-08-21 | 2020-02-27 | 浅野撚糸株式会社 | 加工撚糸の製造方法及び織編物の製造方法 |
JP7193835B2 (ja) | 2018-08-21 | 2022-12-21 | 浅野撚糸株式会社 | 加工撚糸の製造方法及び織編物の製造方法 |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
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PT2562299T (pt) | 2024-01-08 |
CN103097595B (zh) | 2015-09-09 |
EP2562299A1 (en) | 2013-02-27 |
EP2562299A4 (en) | 2018-03-28 |
JPWO2011132708A1 (ja) | 2013-07-18 |
CN103097595A (zh) | 2013-05-08 |
JP5734280B2 (ja) | 2015-06-17 |
US9353465B2 (en) | 2016-05-31 |
EP2562299B1 (en) | 2023-11-01 |
US20130037163A1 (en) | 2013-02-14 |
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