WO2010109545A1 - Composition pulvérulente contenant des particules fusiformes à usage cosmétique - Google Patents

Composition pulvérulente contenant des particules fusiformes à usage cosmétique Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2010109545A1
WO2010109545A1 PCT/JP2009/001420 JP2009001420W WO2010109545A1 WO 2010109545 A1 WO2010109545 A1 WO 2010109545A1 JP 2009001420 W JP2009001420 W JP 2009001420W WO 2010109545 A1 WO2010109545 A1 WO 2010109545A1
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approximately
group
powder composition
composition according
particles
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PCT/JP2009/001420
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English (en)
Inventor
Shinichi Matsufuji
Makoto Kawamoto
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L'oreal
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Priority to CN2009801586120A priority Critical patent/CN102365074A/zh
Priority to JP2011540248A priority patent/JP2012521962A/ja
Priority to PCT/JP2009/001420 priority patent/WO2010109545A1/fr
Publication of WO2010109545A1 publication Critical patent/WO2010109545A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/12—Face or body powders for grooming, adorning or absorbing
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
    • A61K8/022—Powders; Compacted Powders
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A61K8/0245—Specific shapes or structures not provided for by any of the groups of A61K8/0241
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A61K8/0254—Platelets; Flakes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26—Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/08—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for cheeks, e.g. rouge
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/60—Particulates further characterized by their structure or composition
    • A61K2800/65—Characterized by the composition of the particulate/core
    • A61K2800/654—The particulate/core comprising macromolecular material

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a powder composition, in particular a powder foundation, for cosmetic use which contains particles having a non (hemi)spherical shape such as a fusiform shape, also named a "rugby ball” shape according to the invention.
  • a powder composition in particular a dry foundation with a smooth texture.
  • other features such as a good press forming compatibility, less littering and strong drop strength, etc., in particular when the composition is in the form of a compact powder, are also searched for.
  • the preparation of compact powders raises numerous difficulties as the final composition has to be sufficiently homogeneous and compact to prevent fragmentation of the product brought about in particular by impacts.
  • the compact powder must also be easy to remove in order to allow the user to remove the necessary amount of product in order to apply it subsequently to keratinous substances, in particular to the skin.
  • the inventors propose a powder composition, in particular in a compact powder form, for cosmetic use containing fusiform particles in addition to a filler and optionally a pigment and other cosmetically acceptable ingredients, the fusiform particles being made of an organosilicone having a crosslinked polysiloxane structure, and having diameters along major axis L 1 between approximately 0.05 micro meter and approximately 20 micro meter, diameters along minor axes L 2 between approximately 0.03 micro meter and approximately 15 micro meter, and L 1 /L 2 between approximately 1.1 and approximately 3.3.
  • the fusiform particles as well as the methods for obtaining the fusiform particles are described, for example, in the Japanese Patent Application, Publication No. 2003-171465 filed by Takemoto Fat and Oil.
  • the term "cosmetic use” includes uses for so-called cosmetic and dermatological purposes as well as aesthetic purposes.
  • Another subject-matter of the invention is a cosmetic process for making up or caring for human keratinous substances, such as the skin, hair or nails, and more particularly the skin.
  • the composition according to the invention can be a composition for making up or caring for the skin and can be provided in the form of a blusher, an eyeshadow, a face powder, a foundation, a concealer, a product for making up the body, a product for caring for the face, a product for caring for the body or an antisun product. More specifically, the invention relates to a foundation composition.
  • a fusiform or 'rugby ball' shape in this specification refers to such a shape that a sphere is extended in one direction so that there is a major axis along which the fusiform particle has the largest diameter L 1 which is between approximately 0.05 micro meter and approximately 20 micro meter and two minor axes L 2 perpendicular to the major axis and to each other along which the fusiform particle has the smallest diameter which is between approximately 0.03 micro meter and approximately 15 micro meter, and L 1 /L 2 between approximately 1.1 and approximately 3.3.
  • the organosilicone material having a crosslinked polysiloxane structure preferably comprises, indeed even is composed of, units of formula (I): SiO 2 , and of formula (II): R 1 SiO 1.5 , in which R 1 denotes an organic group having a carbon atom directly connected to the silicon atom.
  • the organic group can be a reactive organic group or an unreactive organic group and preferably an unreactive organic group.
  • the organosilicone material having a crosslinked polysiloxane structure also preferably comprises first, second and third siloxane units which are formula (I): SiO 2 , formula (II): R 1 SiO 1.5 and formula (III): R 2 R 3 SiO, respectively, wherein R 1 , R 2 and R 3 are any one of organic groups, same or different, having a carbon atom directly linked to a silicon atom.
  • R 2 and R 3 may be either a non-reactive organic group or an organic group having no reactive group or a reactive organic group or an organic group having a reactive group, independently. However, it is preferred that at least either one of R 2 and R 3 a reactive organic group or an organic group having a reactive group.
  • the unreactive organic group can be a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group, in particular a methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl group, or a phenyl group and preferably a methyl group.
  • the reactive organic group can be an epoxy group, a (meth)acryloyloxy group, an alkenyl group, a mercaptoalkyl, aminoalkyl or haloalkyl group, a glyceroxy group, a ureido group or a cyano group.
  • the reactive organic group can be an epoxy group, a (meth)acryloyloxy group, an alkenyl group or a mercaptoalkyl or aminoalkyl group.
  • the reactive organic group generally comprises from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular from 2 to 4 carbon atoms.
  • the organosilicone material comprises the units (I) and (II) according to a unit (I)/unit (II) molar ratio ranging from 30/70 to 50/50, preferably ranging from 35/65 to 45/55.
  • the organosilicone material comprises the units (I), (II) and (III) so that the molar ratio of the molar sum of the first siloxane unit (I) and the second unit (II) over the third siloxane unit (III) is between 99:1 to 50:50, more preferably between 90:10 to 60:40, approximately.
  • the molar ratio of the first siloxane unit (I) with respect to the second siloxane unit (II) may preferably be between 23:77 and 40:60, approximately.
  • the organosilicone particles can in particular be capable of being obtained according to a process comprising: (a) the introduction into an aqueous medium, in the presence of at least one hydrolysis catalyst and optionally of at least one surfactant, of a compound (IV) of formula SiX 4 and of a compound (V) of formula R 4 SiY 3 , where X and Y denote, independently of one another, a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy group, an alkoxyethoxy group including a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy group, a C 2 -C 4 acyloxy group, an N,N-dialkylamino group including a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group, a hydroxyl group, a halogen atom or a hydrogen atom and R denotes an organic group comprising a carbon atom connected directly to the silicon atom; and (b) the operation in which the mixture resulting from stage (a) is brought into contact with an aqueous solution including at least one polymerization catalyst and
  • Stage (a) corresponds to a hydrolysis reaction and stage (b) corresponds to a condensation reaction.
  • the molar ratio of the compound (IV) to the compound (V) generally ranges from 23/77 to 40/60, advantageously from 35/65 to 45/45, and is preferentially 40/60.
  • the organosilicone particles can also be capable of being obtained according to a process comprising: (a) the introduction into an aqueous medium, in the presence of at least one hydrolysis catalyst, of a silanol group forming silicon compound (IV) of formula SiX 4 , of a silanol group forming silicon compound (V) of formula R 4 SiY 3 , and of a silanol group forming silicon compound (VI) of formula R 5 R 6 SiZ 2 , at the molar ratio for (the silanol group forming silicon compound (IV) and the silanol group forming silicon compound (V): the silanol group forming silicon compound (VI) to be 99:1 to 50:50, preferably 90:10 to 60:40 so that the the silanol group forming silicon compounds are hydrolyzed to generate a silanol compound (it is furthermore preferred that the silanol forming silicon compounds of formula IV and V are at the molar ratio of 23:77 to 40:60); and (b
  • X, Y and Z groups of the compounds (IV), (V) and (VI) mention may be made, as C 1 -C 4 alkoxy group, of the methoxy or ethoxy groups; mention may be made, as alkoxyethoxy group including a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy group, of the methoxyethoxy or butoxyethoxy groups; mention may be made, as C 2 -C 4 acyloxy group, of the acetoxy or propionyloxy groups; mention may be made, as N,N-dialkylamino group including a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group, of the dimethylamino or diethylamino groups; mention may be made, as halogen atom, of the chlorine or bromine atoms.
  • the compound of formula (IV) is chosen from tetramethoxysilane, tetraethoxysilane, tetrabutoxysilane and their mixtures.
  • the compound of formula (IV) results, after the polymerization reaction, in the formation of the units of formula (I).
  • the compound of formula (V) results, after the polymerization reaction, in the formation of the units of formula (II).
  • the R group in the compound of formula (V) has the meaning as described for the R 1 group for the compound of formula (II).
  • R unreactive organic group R
  • silanes having an epoxy group such as (3-glycidoxypropyl)trimethoxysilane, (3-glycidoxypropyl)triethoxysilane, [2-(3,4-epoxycyclohexyl)ethyl]trimethoxysilane, (3-glycidoxypropyl)methyldimethoxysilane, (2-glycidoxyethyl)methyldimethoxysilane, (3-glycidoxypropyl)di-methylmethoxysilane or (2-glycidoxyethyl)dimethylmethoxysilane; silanes having a (meth)acryloyloxy group, such as (3-methacryloyloxypropyl)trimethoxysilane or (3-acryloyloxypropyl)trimethoxysilane; silanes having an alkenyl group, such as vinyl
  • the compound of formula (V) comprising a reactive organic group R is chosen from silanes having an epoxy group, silanes having a (meth)acryloyloxy group, silanes having an alkenyl group, silanes having a mercapto group or silanes having an aminoalkyl group.
  • Examples of compounds (IV) and (V) which are preferred for the implementation of this invention are respectively tetraethoxysilane and methyltrimethoxysilane.
  • Use may independently be made, as hydrolysis and polymerization catalysts, of basic catalysts, such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, sodium hydrogencarbonate or amines (such as ammonia, trimethylamine, triethylamine or tetramethylammonium hydroxide), or acidic catalysts chosen from organic acids, such as citric acid, acetic acid, methanesulphonic acid, p-toluenesulphonic acid, dodecylbenzenesulphonic acid or dodecylsulphonic acid, or inorganic acids, such as hydrochloric acid, sulphuric acid or phosphoric acid.
  • basic catalysts such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, sodium hydrogencarbonate or amines (such as ammonia, trimethylamine, triethy
  • the surfactant used is preferably a nonionic or anionic surfactant or a mixture of the two.
  • Sodium dodecylbenzenesulphonate can be used as anionic surfactant.
  • the end of the hydrolysis is marked by the disappearance of the products (IV) and (V), which are insoluble in water, and the production of a homogeneous liquid layer.
  • the silanol forming silicon compounds of formula (VI) forms siloxane unit (III) as a result.
  • the group Z in formula (VI) may be selected from the group listed for group X in formula (IV).
  • R 5 and R 6 in formula (VI) may be selected from the group described for R 2 and R 3 in formula (III).
  • the condensation stage (b) can use the same catalyst as the hydrolysis stage or another catalyst chosen from those mentioned above.
  • a suspension in water of fine organosilicone particles is obtained, which particles can optionally be separated subsequently from their medium.
  • the process described above can thus comprise an additional stage of filtration, for example on a membrane filter, of the product resulting from stage (b), optionally followed by a stage of centrifuging the filtrate, intended to separate the particles from the liquid medium, and then by a stage of drying the particles.
  • Other separation methods can, of course, be employed.
  • the fusiform particles have slits along their major axes.
  • the fusiform particles are generally less than 40 wt% by weight, preferably between approximately 1 wt% and approximately 40 wt% , preferably between approximately 5 wt% and approximately 20 wt%, more preferably between approximately 10 wt% and approximately 15 wt% of the powder composition.
  • the crosslinked polysiloxane comprises first, second and third siloxane units which are SiO 2 , R 1 SiO 1.5 and R 2 R 3 SiO, respectively, wherein R 1 , R 2 and R 3 are any one of organic groups, same or different, having a carbon atom directly linked to a silicon atom.
  • R 1 and at least one of R 2 and R 3 may preferably selected from the group consisting of epoxy group, (meta) acryloxy group, mercaptoalkyl group, aminoalkyl group and organic groups having any one of preceding groups.
  • the filler(s) present in the composition may be in a spherical shape or non-spherical shape.
  • the composition contains at least fillers in a non-spherical shape.
  • the filler(s) in the composition include at least one filler in a plate or lamellar form and optionally other spherical fillers, said fillers being chosen from talc, mica, silica, kaolin, powders formed of polyamide, of poly-beta-alanine and of polyethylene, powders formed of tetrafluoroethylene polymers (PTFE), lauroyllysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres of poly(vinylidene chloride)/acrylonitrile or of acrylic acid copolymers, silicone resin microbeads, particles formed of polyorganosiloxane elastomers, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, basic magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, barium
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one filler in a non spherical shape and having a flake or lamellar form.
  • fillers we can cite lauroyl lysine, mica, talc, boron nitride, kaolin, oxychloride bismuth, barium sulfate, perlite, PTFE, and their mixtures.
  • the composition comprises at least one lamellar filler, in particular chosen from talc, mica, boron nitride and their mixtures. Said fillers might be surface treated by silicone compounds and/or amino acids.
  • the lamellar fillers can be chosen from: - talc, which is a magnesium silicate hydrate, in particular the talcs sold under the names "Talc Luzenac 00" by Luzenac and "Talc P3" by Nippon Talc; - kaolin, which is a hydrated aluminosilicate which is provided in the form of particles of anisotropic shape having dimensions generally of less than 30 micro meter .
  • Use may be made, as kaolin, of that sold under the name "Kaolin Supreme 1" by English China Clays; - mica or aluminosilicate chosen from muscovite, phlogopite, tiotite, sericite, lepidolite, paragonite, margarite, roscoelite, artificial or synthetic mica having a fluorine atom substituting for the hydroxyl group of natural mica, and the heated or calcined products of these micas.
  • Micas are generally provided in the form of flakes having dimensions of 2 to 200 micro meter , preferably 5 to 70 micro meter , and a thickness of 0.1 to 5 micro meter , preferably of 0.2 to 3 micro meter .
  • Use may be made, as mica, for example, of those sold under the names “Mica SFG70” by Aspanger or “Mica Concord 1000” by Sciama; - lamellar silica, such as in particular that sold under the names “SG Flake 3 M” by Maprecos or “Chemicelen” by Sumitomo; - and their mixtures.
  • the lamellar fillers are chosen from talc, mica, boron nitride and their mixture.
  • the talc, mica and/or boron nitride can be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 5 to 90% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 10 to 85% by weight, more preferably from 20 to 80% by weight, and more preferably from 50 to 80% by weight of the composition.
  • the total fillers in the composition of the invention can be present in a content ranging from 5 to 90% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 10 to 85% by weight, more preferably from 20 to 80% by weight, and more preferably from 50 to 80% by weight of the composition.
  • the fillers in the form of flake or lamellar represent from 50 to 100% of total amount of fillers in the composition of the invention.
  • the composition may also contain spherical fillers, in particular for improving the slipness of the composition.
  • Such spherical fillers may be chosen from powders formed of polyamide, of poly-beta-alanine and of polyethylene, silicone resin microbeads, particles formed of polyorganosiloxane elastomers, polyurethane powders, and mixtures thereof.
  • the spherical fillers may be present in a content ranging from 0 to 20% by weight of the composition, in particular 1 to 10% by weight of the composition.
  • Pigments The powder composition of the invention, in particular if it is a make-up product, may comprise at least one pigment.
  • pigments should be understood to mean particles of any shape, white or colored, inorganic or organic, which are insoluble in the physiological medium and which are intended to color the composition.
  • the pigments can be white and/or colored and inorganic and/or organic.
  • the composition according to the invention can comprise at least one pigment chosen from inorganic pigments.
  • These inorganic pigments can in particular be chosen from metal oxide pigments.
  • inorganic pigments of titanium dioxide, optionally surface treated, zirconium or cerium oxides, and also zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, and metal powders, such as aluminium powder or copper powder, and their mixtures.
  • the inorganic pigments, in particular metal oxide pigments, present in the composition according to the invention are chosen from titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and/or iron oxide.
  • the composition may comprise at least two different pigments.
  • the composition may comprise at least one first pigment chosen from iron oxides and at least one second titanium dioxide pigment.
  • composition according to the invention can comprise organic pigments. Mention may be made, among organic pigments, of carbon black, pigments of D and C type and lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium or aluminium.
  • the pigment can also comprise goniochromatic pigments. These pigments exhibit a relatively large change in color with the angle of observation.
  • the goniochromatic pigment can be chosen, for example, from pigments comprising a multilayer interference structure and liquid crystal pigments.
  • the latter can comprise, for example, at least two layers, each layer, independently or not of the other layer(s), being produced, for example, from at least one material chosen from the group consisting of the following materials: MgF 2 , CeF 3 , ZnS, ZnSe, Si, SiO 2 , Ge, Te, Fe 2 O 3 , Pt, Va, Al 2 O 3 , MgO, Y 2 O 3 , S 2 O 3 , SiO, HfO 2 , ZrO 2 , CeO 2 , Nb 2 O 5 , Ta 2 O 5 , TiO 2 , Ag, Al, Au, Cu, Rb, Ti, Ta, W, Zn, MoS 2 , cryolite, alloys, polymers and their combinations.
  • the goniochromatic agents comprising multilayer structures are in particular those described in the following documents: US-A-3,438,796, EP-A-227,423, US-A-5,135,812, EP-A-170,439, EP-A-341,002, US-A-4,930,866, US-A-5,641,719, EP-A-472,371, EP-A-395,410, EP-A-753,545, EP-A-768,343, EP-A-571,836, EP-A-708,154, EP-A-579,091, US-A-5,411,586, US-A-5,364,467, WO-A-97/39066, DE-A-4,225,031, WO-9517479 (BASF) and DE-A-196,14,637. They are provided in the form of flakes with a metallic color.
  • the multilayer structures which can be used in the invention are, for example, the following structures: Al/SiO 2 /Al/SiO 2 /Al; Cr/MgF 2 /Al/MgF 2 /Al; MoS 2 /SiO 2 /Al/SiO 2 /MoS 2 ; Fe 2 O 3 /SiO 2 /Al/SiO 2 /Fe 2 O 3 ; Fe 2 O 3 /SiO 2 /Fe 2 O 3 /SiO 2 /Fe 2 O 3 ; MoS 2 /SiO 2 /mica oxide/SiO 2 /MoS 2 ; Fe 2 O 3 /SiO 2 /mica oxide/SiO 2 /Fe 2 O 3 .
  • the color changes from golden-green to grey-red for SiO 2 layers with a thickness of 320 to 350 nm; from red to golden for SiO 2 layers with a thickness of 380 to 400 nm; from purple to green for SiO 2 layers with a thickness of 410 to 420 nm; and from copper to red for SiO 2 layers with a thickness of 430 to 440 nm.
  • the multilayer structure can be essentially inorganic or organic. Different colors are obtained depending on the thickness of each of the different layers.
  • the goniochromatic pigments comprising a multilayer interference structure according to the invention are in particular those described in the following documents: US-A-3,438,796, EP-A-227,423, US-A-5,135,812, EP-A-170,439, EP-A-341,002, US-A-4,930,866, US-A-5,641,719, EP-A-472,371, EP-A-395,410, EP-A-753,545, EP-A-768,343, EP-A-571,836, EP-A-708,154, EP-A-579,091, US-A-5,411,586, US-A-5,364,467, WO-A-97/39066, DE-A-4,225,031, WO-9517479 (BASF) and DE-A-196,14,637, and their combinations. They are provided in the form of flakes
  • the goniochromatic pigment comprising a multilayer interference structure can be chosen from the group consisting of the following commercial goniochromatic pigments: Infinite Colors from Shiseido, Sicopearl Fantastico from BASF, Colorstream, Xirallic and Xirona from Merck, Colorglitter from Flex, and their mixtures.
  • Liquid crystal pigments are described in particular in Application EP-A-1,046,692. Use may in particular be made, as liquid crystal particles, of those known under the CTFA name Polyacrylate 4 and sold under the names “Helicone Trademark HC Sapphire”, “Helicone Trademark HC Scarabeus”, “Helicone Trademark HC Jade”, “Helicone Trademark HC Maple”, “Helicone Trademark HC XL Sapphire”, “Helicone Trademark HC XL Scarabeus”, “Helicone Trademark HC XL Jade” and “Helicone Trademark HC XL Maple” by Wacker.
  • the pigments can be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0 to 30% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 5 to 20% by weight and more preferably from 5 to 15% by weight.
  • Cosmetically acceptable other ingredients are, for example, waxes, preservatives, cosmetic active principles, moisturizing agents, UV screening agents, thickeners, water, surfactants, binders or fragrances.
  • the cosmetically acceptable other ingredients may be one or more of pulverulent phases including spherical solid particles, boron nitride particles, lamellar particles, additional particles, fatty binders, waxes, pasty fatty substances, and other additives.
  • the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one fatty binder.
  • fatty binder is understood to mean, within the meaning of the present application, a fatty phase which generally comprises at least one oil. This type of fatty phase is used in particular as dispersing medium for the pulverulent phase.
  • the fatty binder can comprise at least one oil.
  • the fatty binder may also comprise waxes.
  • the oil can be chosen from the oils conventionally used as binder in loose or compact powders. These oils can in particular be chosen from: - mink oil, turtle oil, soybean oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, avocado oil, olive oil, castor oil, jojoba oil or peanut oil; - hydrocarbon oils, such as liquid paraffins, squalane or liquid petrolatum; - fatty esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, isodecyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, hexyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-octyldodecy
  • the oil is chosen from fatty esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, isodecyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, hexyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl lactate, di(2-ethylhexyl) succinate, diisostearyl malate, glyceryl triisostearate or diglyceryl triisostearate.
  • fatty esters such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, isodecyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, hexy
  • the oil of the binder can represent from 10 to 100% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the binder.
  • the binder can be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 1 to 10% by weight and more preferably from 1.5 to 5% by weight.
  • composition according to the invention can comprise at lest one other conventional cosmetic ingredient which can be chosen in particular from surfactants, antioxidants, fragrances, preservatives, neutralizing agents, sunscreens, vitamins, moisturizing agents, self-tanning compounds, antiwrinkle active agents, emollients, hydrophilic or lipophilic active principles, agents for combating pollution or free radicals, sequestering agents, dermo-decontracting active agents, soothing agents, agents which stimulate the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and/or which prevent their decomposition, antiglycation agents, agents which combat irritation, desquamating agents, depigmenting, antipigmenting or propigmenting agents, NO-synthase inhibitors, agents which stimulate the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and/or the differentiation of keratinocytes, agents which act on the microcirculation, agents which act on the energy metabolism of the cells, healing agents, and their mixtures.
  • the surfactant can be chosen in particular from sur
  • the composition according to the invention can be a cosmetic composition in the powder form comprising: i) 20 to 85% by weight, preferably 50 to 85% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, of at least one filler, ii) 1 to 40% by weight, preferably 5 to 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, of fusiform particles being made of an organosilicone having a crosslinked polysiloxane structure, and having diameters along major axis L 1 between approximately 0.05 micro meter and approximately 20 micro meter, diameters along minor axes L 2 between approximately 0.03 micro meter and approximately 15 micro meter, and L 1 /L 2 between approximately 1.1 and approximately 3.3, iii) 0 to 30% by weight, preferably 1 to 30% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, of at least one pigment, iv) 2 to 15% by weight, preferably 5 to 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, of at least one fatty binder.
  • the filler is a non-spherical filler, having a flake or a lamellar form.
  • the composition may also contain spherical filler in addition to non-spherical filler, and in particular the non-spherical filler represents 50 to 100% by weight of total fillers in the composition.
  • the pigment is an inorganic pigment.
  • the composition advantageously contains titanium dioxide and iron oxides.
  • the fatty binder advantageously comprises a fatty phase with oil(s), in particular chosen from mineral oil, silicone oil, and mixtures.
  • the composition according to the invention can be an anhydrous composition.
  • anhydrous composition is understood to mean a composition comprising less than 2% by weight of water, indeed even less than 0.5% by weight of water, and which in particular is devoid of water, the water not being added during the preparation of the composition but corresponding to the residual water contributed by the mixed ingredients.
  • the composition of the invention is in the form of a compact powder and can be prepared by mixing the ingredients of the pulverulent phase (organosilicone particles, fillers and optionally pigments) and by then adding the fatty phase with stirring, the mixture subsequently being milled, sieved, then poured into a dish and compacted.
  • the pulverulent phase organosilicone particles, fillers and optionally pigments
  • the milled and sieved mixture of the pulverulent phase and of the fatty phase is compacted using a press, in particular by applying a pressure ranging from 0.5 MPa to 10 MPa and preferably ranging from 1 MPa to 5 MPa.
  • the composition thus obtained is provided in the form of a compact powder.
  • the powder composition may be a make-up or caring for the skin and can be provided in the form of a blusher, an eyeshadow, a face powder, a foundation, a concealer, a product for making up the body, a product for caring for the face, a product for caring for the body or an antisun product. More specifically, the composition is a powder foundation, in particular in a compact powder form.
  • Fig. 1 is a diagram schematically showing the shape of a fusiform particle
  • Fig. 2 is a diagram showing the formation of cracking during press forming of a compact foundation.
  • Fig. 3 is a diagram showing the amount of product obtained by sponge wiping and the amount of litters appearing at the same time (Formula I).
  • Fig. 4 shows the amount of littering at the 100th rubbing (Formula II).
  • Fig. 5 shows friction coefficients
  • Fig. 6 shows drop strength of compacted products
  • Fig. 1 schematically shows the shape of a fusiform particle.
  • the particle has a rugby ball shape, that is, a major axis along which the diameter is larger than any other diameters, and two minor axis which are perpendicular to the major axis and which are perpendicular to each other.
  • the two minor axes may be defined in any direction as long as the axes are in the plane perpendicular to the major axes.
  • the diameters along major axis L 1 between approximately 0.05 micro meter and approximately 20 micro meter, diameters along minor axes L 2 between approximately 0.03 micro meter and approximately 15 micro meter, and L 1 /L 2 between approximately 1.1 and approximately 3.3.
  • Example particle 1 and Example particle 2 show morphology of the particles according to the present invention (Example particle 1 and Example particle 2) which have fusiform shapes and different in size, and the comparative particles which have a bowl shape (Reference particle 1 or NLK506), spherical shapes (Reference particle 2 or Tospearl, Reference 3 or Silica Beads SB700, and Reference particle 4 or KSP300). Their mean sizes and frictions are also shown in Table 2.
  • Table 3 shows the ingredients of Formula I to which the above-described particles are to be added.
  • Formula I includes the elements which are typical in a cosmetic composition.
  • Table 4 shows the amount of particles included in the examples of the present invention (Examples 1 - 8) and comparative references (References 1 - 17) for the tests.
  • the amount of particles have been varied in the range of 5, 10, 15 and 20 wt%.
  • Table 5 below shows another formula of cosmetic composition, Formula II. The same particles were included in Formula II also.
  • Fig. 2 shows a result of press compaction one of the compositions according to Formula I after pressing with MIZUHO press machine. Cracks as shown by Fig. 2 appeared and therefore decided unsuitable as cosmetic compositions such as foundations, solid make-up, eye shadow, etc. for the compositions containing 15 wt% or more of Silica Beads SB700 or KSP300. In other words, Reference 11, 12, 16 were found to be unsuitable for products.
  • Fig. 3(A) through 3(F) show the results of pick-up and littering tests performed on Examples 1 - 8 and References 1 - 16.
  • the tests were performed by means of a test machine which repeats reciprocal movements so that a cake made of the test composition is rubbed with a sponge and the amount of the composition taken by the sponge (pick-up amount) and remaining on the cake surface (litters) were measured after predetermined number of rubbings.
  • litters are small throughout the tested range when the particles are fusiform, NLK600 and NLK602.
  • the litters tend to be large especially when the amount of particles is higher than 10 wt% and therefore undesirable except in the case of Tospearl. From the point of view of less litters which is desirable, the compositions according to the present invention and the compositions containing Tospearl are considered to be desirable and other particles are not.
  • Fig. 4 shows the results of similar tests performed on the compositions according to Formula II.
  • the graph shows the amount of litters after 100 rubbings by a sponge.
  • the results show that relatively large amount of litters appears even when Silica Beads SB700 or KSP300 are included.
  • Other results are more or less the same and acceptable including the composition containing non spherical particles.
  • Fig. 5 shows the friction coefficient (MIU) of the composition.
  • Friction coefficient was measured on a bulk powder of the composition to be tested. By means of a test machine, the force which was necessary to move a sponge along the bulk powder surface and the force exerted perpendicular to the bulk powder surface were measured, and the friction coefficient was determined to be the ratio thereof.
  • a general tendency observed in the compositions containing fusiform particles is that the friction coefficient decreases as the amount of particles contained in the composition increases (Examples 1 - 8). More or less the same results are observed in the compositions containing a bowl shaped particles (Reference 1 - 4) and Silica Beads SB700.
  • the friction coefficient is high regardless of the amount of particles contained in the composition meaning that the smoothness is not obtained by adding Tospearl.
  • Fig. 6 shows the drop strength of the composition after press compacted. Pressed powder was dropped on the tile from 20 cm of height until 5% of the initial weight is lost. Fig. 6 shows how many times the compositions were dropped.
  • the compositions according to the present invention Examples 9 and 10, depicts remarkably high resistance against dropping while the compositions containing other types of particles tend to be more fragile against dropping compared with blank specimen which contains no spherical particles.
  • Table 7 shows the results of the evaluation performed according to the definitions described in Table 6. Table 7 clearly shows that the Examples according to the present invention which contain fusiform particles depict overall superiority to other compositions containing other types of particles. Each one of the other compositions has a weakness in at least one of the features described there.
  • a powder composition for cosmetic use containing fusiform particles in addition to a filler and a pigment and other cosmetically acceptable ingredients depicts superior features desired from cosmetic compositions such as good press forming compatibility, small amount of litters by rubbing, small friction coefficient to guarantee a smooth touch and a good drop strength.
  • Eye shadow A formulation of an eye shadow product is described as follows.
  • Foundation (compact powder) A formulation of foundation (compact powder) product is described as follows.

Abstract

L'invention porte sur une composition pulvérulente à usage cosmétique contenant des particules fusiformes en plus d'un agent de remplissage et d'un pigment et autres ingrédients cosmétiquement acceptables, les particules fusiformes étant faites d'un organosilicone dont la structure est un polysiloxane réticulé, et dont les diamètres selon l'axe principal L1 sont compris entre approximativement 0,05 micromètre et approximativement 20 micromètres, les diamètres selon les axes secondaires L2 sont compris entre approximativement 0,03 micromètre et approximativement 15 micromètres, L1/L2 étant approximativement compris entre 1,1 et approximativement 3,3.
PCT/JP2009/001420 2009-03-27 2009-03-27 Composition pulvérulente contenant des particules fusiformes à usage cosmétique WO2010109545A1 (fr)

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JP2011540248A JP2012521962A (ja) 2009-03-27 2009-03-27 化粧用の紡錘状粒子を含む粒子組成物
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WO2014097361A1 (fr) 2012-12-20 2014-06-26 L'oreal Procédé pour resserrer les pores de la peau et matifier la peau et composition aqueuse comprenant des particules fusiformes et destinées au soin de la peau
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US9212294B2 (en) 2012-10-11 2015-12-15 Nanocomposix, Inc. Silver nanoplate compositions and methods
ITUB20152471A1 (it) * 2015-07-24 2017-01-24 B Kolormakeup & Skincare S R L Gia Biokolor Make Up S R L Ora B Kolormakeup & Skincare S P A Composizione cosmetica in forma di polvere compatta, suo procedimento di preparazione e relativi usi.
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CN105906811B (zh) * 2016-04-27 2019-03-29 北京工商大学 一种单分散的麦粒形聚硅氧烷纳米粒子及其制备方法
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WO2012042570A1 (fr) * 2010-09-29 2012-04-05 L'oreal Procédé cosmétique pour cacher les imperfections de la peau
KR20140072112A (ko) * 2011-09-21 2014-06-12 로레알 압축 파우더 형태의 고체 미용 조성물
JP2014526529A (ja) * 2011-09-21 2014-10-06 ロレアル コンパクトパウダー形態の固体化粧品組成物
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KR101968364B1 (ko) * 2011-09-21 2019-04-11 로레알 압축 파우더 형태의 고체 미용 조성물
US20140227216A1 (en) * 2011-09-21 2014-08-14 L'oreal Solid cosmetic composition in compact powder form
US9249334B2 (en) 2012-10-11 2016-02-02 Nanocomposix, Inc. Silver nanoplate compositions and methods
US9212294B2 (en) 2012-10-11 2015-12-15 Nanocomposix, Inc. Silver nanoplate compositions and methods
US9526745B2 (en) 2012-10-11 2016-12-27 Nanocomposix, Inc. Silver nanoplate compositions and methods
US10688126B2 (en) 2012-10-11 2020-06-23 Nanocomposix, Inc. Silver nanoplate compositions and methods
US11583553B2 (en) 2012-10-11 2023-02-21 Nanocomposix, Llc Silver nanoplate compositions and methods
WO2014097361A1 (fr) 2012-12-20 2014-06-26 L'oreal Procédé pour resserrer les pores de la peau et matifier la peau et composition aqueuse comprenant des particules fusiformes et destinées au soin de la peau
WO2017017552A1 (fr) * 2015-07-24 2017-02-02 B. Kolormakeup & Skincare S.P.A. Composition cosmétique se présentant sous la forme d'une poudre compacte, procédé de fabrication et utilisations de celle-ci
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WO2017100875A1 (fr) * 2015-12-17 2017-06-22 L'oreal Composition antitranspirante anhydre sous forme de poudre

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