Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
  • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
  • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
  • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
  • A61P17/16—Emollients or protectives, e.g. against radiation
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations

Definitions

• Cosmetic composition comprising an extract of Adenium obesum, its use and a method of cosmetic care comprising the application
• the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition
• a cosmetic composition comprising an extract of Adenium obesum, a new use of an extract of this plant in the field of cosmetics, its use in particular to reinforce the cutaneous barrier and / or the dermo-epidermal junction, and a method of cosmetic care comprising the application.
• the skin is the outermost layer that protects our body.
• stratum corneum and the epidermis which form the most superficial layers of the skin must have a resistance to the forces and mechanical stresses exerted on them, and also a resistance to the evaporation of water.
• the intercellular junctions of the epithelial cells for example of the epidermis, can be classified into two groups according to their ultrastructure and their function:
• the adhering or anchoring junctions also called “desmosomes”, which allow the mechanical attachment of the cells to one another and reinforce the mechanical strength of the sealing systems,
• Watertight junctions also called “tight junctions” capable of limiting the permeability of the stratified epithelium that is the epidermis and which seal against water between two cell compartments.
• Desmosomes are binding sites for keratins between two cells (keratinocytes or corneocytes) and thus strengthen the adhesion of keratinocytes to each other, from keratinocytes to corneocytes of the stratum and corneocytes to each other. These adherent or anchoring junctions allow groups of cells to act as solid structural units by associating the cytoskeletal elements of one cell with those of another.
• the keratin filaments within the keratinocytes and corneocytes form a structural framework for their cytoplasm and provide resistance to the lateral and vertical forces and mechanical stresses that these cells undergo.
• Desmosomes are complex structures that contain two main proteins, desmoglein, a glycoprotein with a molecular weight of 160 kDa, and desmoplakin with a molecular weight of 285 kDa that bind the keratin filaments.
• Desmosomes therefore play a key role in these mechanisms of resistance to the stresses to which the cells of the epidermis are subjected and in the prevention of the evaporation of intercellular water, a phenomenon responsible for cutaneous dryness and accelerating during aging. skin.
• JP 2001288113 discloses a cosmetic composition comprising a substance allowing the expression of desmoglein, desmocollin or desmoplakin, constitutive proteins of desmosomes with a view to obtaining a preventive effect or improving effects of aging of the skin, such as skin dryness or the formation of wrinkles.
• FR 2 803 523 relates to a cosmetic composition based on extracts of seaweed from the family Dictyotales, more particularly an extract of Padina pavonica causing the maturation of keratinocytes, with amplification of the synthesis of cytokeratins 1 and 10, and increase of desmosomal proteins.
• Adenium obesum also known as desert rosé, is a plant belonging to the Apocynaceae family, native to Yemen and cultivated as a tropical ornamental plant.
• WO 96/11015 discloses a homeopathic moisturizing composition for oral absorption. Indeed, the moisturizing effect aims to increase or facilitate the passage of water and ions in the intestine. This document does not disclose or teach any cosmetic application or any effect on the skin. There is no mention of any excipient.
• an extract of Adenium obesum stimulates the expression of proteins of the desmosomes present at the level of the intercellular junctions of the cells forming the epidermis and the stratum corneum, and more particularly makes it possible to stimulate the expression of the desmoglein, and in particular desmoglein 1, or desmoplakin, which are two of the constitutive proteins of the desmosomal junctions of the epidermis, involved in inter-keratinocyte or inter-corneocyte cohesion.
• Such stimulation makes it possible to increase the efficiency of these adherent junctions and thus to improve the resistance to stresses experienced by these cell layers and to limit the evaporation of the intercellular water.
• the reinforcement of the cutaneous barrier results mainly from these two physiological phenomena which are, on the one hand, an improved resistance to the stresses suffered by the cells of the stratum corneum and the epidermis and, on the other hand, a greater resistance to evaporation of the intercellular water.
• Such stimulation thus makes it possible to reinforce the cohesion between the cell compartments, in particular between the stratum corneum and the living epidermis, or between the epidermis and the dermis, that is to say the strengthening of the junction. dermo-epidermal.
• the main object of the present invention is to provide a new cosmetic agent or a novel cosmetic composition having a good skin barrier reinforcing activity, which is also capable of preventing or slowing down the effects of aging of the skin or of obtaining an effect Moisturizer or moisturizer important or improved.
• the invention also aims to solve the technical problem by a particularly simple solution, relatively inexpensive, usable on an industrial and cosmetic scale.
• the present invention thus relates to a cosmetic composition
• a cosmetic composition comprising an Adenium obesum extract as active agent and at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.
• the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises an effective amount of Adenium obesum extract to obtain the desired effect.
• the composition according to the invention thus preferably comprises from 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 1% by weight of Adenium obesum extract.
• the extract can be obtained from the whole plant or parts of it, such as leaves, stems, flowers or roots.
• Said extract may also be obtained by culturing cells of the whole plant or part of the plant, in particular Adenium obesum leaf cells, in a plant cell culture medium known to the man of the plant. art.
• the extract of Adenium obesum may be obtained by extraction of at least part of said plant with at least one solvent chosen advantageously from the group comprising water, a Cl-alcohol,
• C4 for example ethanol
• a glycol preferably chosen from butylene glycol and propylene glycol.
• the extract of Adenium obesum obtained by extraction may then optionally be lyophilized or atomized to be in the form of a powder.
• the powder may be used as it is in a cosmetic composition according to the invention or may be redispersed in a solvent or a mixture of solvents.
• the solvent or solvent mixture in which the powder extract is redispersed may be the same or different from that used for the extraction.
• the Adenium obesum extract may also be adsorbed on a support chosen for example from the group comprising porous or non-porous nylon powders, and micas or any lamellar mineral substance, for incorporation into a composition of makeup such as a lipstick or a moisturizing foundation.
• the Adenium obesum extract is preferably an aqueous extract.
• the extract of the invention has an activity such as to contribute to reinforcing the cutaneous barrier, and to improving the cohesion of the dermal-epidermal junction.
• a first advantageous combination of the Adenium obesum extract is carried out with saponins or sapogenols.
• saponins or sapogenols can be obtained from various plants by extraction with a polar solvent, in particular with an alcohol or a water / alcohol mixture.
• Particular saponins are those extracted from soya or Medicago plant or alfalfa.
• Particularly interesting saponins are those obtained by extraction of the plant Panax notoginseng, in particular in the form of saponin of the gensenoside type.
• saponins extracted from panax notoginseng in particular in the form of ginsenoside saponin, for example, saponin ginsenoside GRbI; or GRgI; or GRd; or GRl; or GRe and mixtures thereof, are particularly effective in stimulating the synthesis of elastin by dermal fibroblasts; This allows use as cosmetic active agents to prevent or correct a loss of elasticity, tonicity or skin firmness.
• saponins or sapogenols are used topically in a cosmetic composition in a concentration of between 0.001% and 5% by weight relative to the weight. total of the composition, preferably between 0.01% and 0.1% by total weight of the composition containing them.
• the preferred combinations for reinforcing the cutaneous barrier are carried out with one or more active agents chosen from the group comprising an extract of Castanea sativa, an extract of Ajuga turkestanica, mixtures of ceramides, free fatty acids and sterols, ecdysterone, calcium gluconate, D-xylose, L-serine or pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and its cosmetically acceptable salts such as a calcium salt.
• the Adenium obesum extract alone or in combination with other active agents involved in reinforcing the cutaneous barrier, can also be advantageously associated with one or more active agents chosen from the group comprising a glycolic amber extract.
• succinic acid malic acid, salicylic acid, gentisic acid, tocopherol gentisate, ectoin and / or its hydroxylated derivatives, mannitol, forskolin, urea, sarcosine, trimethylglycine, creatine, glutathione, UVA and / or UVB filters, antiradical substances such as tocopherol, resveratrol, its monomers or oligomers, astringinine, tocotrienol or an extract of Sanguisorba officinalis, calming substances such as tocopherol phosphate, lightening substances of the complexion and / or regulating cutaneous pigment disorders such as Kushenol B, arbutin, kojic acid, calcium panthothenosulphonate, a liquorice extract, lily extract or an ascorbic acid or erythorbic acid derivative.
• mannitol forskolin, urea, sarcosine, trimethylglycine
• said cosmetic composition comprises at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient which may be chosen from the group comprising pigments, dyes, polymers, surfactants, rheology agents, perfumes, electrolytes , pH adjusters, antioxidants, preservatives, and mixtures thereof.
• the cosmetic composition according to the invention is intended for application to all or part of the skin of the face or body.
• the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be, for example, a serum, a lotion, an emulsion, a rich cream, a tinted cream or else a hydrogel, preferably a mask, or be in the form of a stick, for example. example a lipstick.
• the composition has a particularly desired effect for preventing or slowing down the effects of aging of the skin, and in particular makes it possible to obtain a protective, corrective, restructuring, moisturizing or moisturizing effect when said cosmetic composition is applied to the skin of the face or from the body.
• the present invention also relates to other objects, and in particular uses of these extracts in the field of cosmetics.
• the invention thus also relates to a use of the Adenium obesum extract as a cosmetic agent or for the manufacture of a cosmetic composition intended to reinforce the cutaneous barrier, to reinforce the cohesion of the dermal junction.
• epidermal to prevent or slow down the effects of aging of the skin, in particular the formation of wrinkles, or to obtain a protective, corrective, restructuring, moisturizing or moisturizing effect.
• the invention relates to a cosmetic care method intended to strengthen the cutaneous barrier, to reinforce the cohesion of the dermal-epidermal junction, to prevent or slow down the effects of aging of the skin, in particular the formation of wrinkles to obtain a protective, corrective, restructuring, moisturizing or moisturizing effect on the skin, or to fight against a skin fragility characterized in that it comprises the application to at least one area of the skin of a cosmetic composition containing an Adenium obesum extract as defined above or as described in the following description.
• FIG. 1 represents the results obtained in the test of Example 4 based on a lyophilized extract of Adenium obesum obtained in Example 1, showing on the abscissa the concentration of the Adenium obesum extract in solution. in DMSO% w / v% (% w / v) of the test solution, and ordinate the expression of desmoglein 1 expressed as a percentage relative to the control; the results are expressed in the form of histograms, on the one hand for a concentration at 0.02% w / v with the Adenium obesum extract of the invention of Example 1 and 0.04% w / v the same extract; and
• FIG. 2 represents similar results, this time relative to the expression of the desmoplakin protein, for the same concentration of 0.02 and 0.04% w / v in Adenium obesum extract of Example 1.
• Adenium obesum leaf cells are cultured by biotechnology on a conventional plant cell culture medium well known to those skilled in the art to obtain undifferentiated cell clusters known as calli after a few weeks.
• An extract of the aerial parts is carried out under cold stirring with distilled water and / or 10% ethanol.
• the plant / solvent ratio is 1 to 10 by weight. Then the extract is filtered on filter
• This vacuum or freeze-dried extract can be used as it is as a cosmetic agent or as an active ingredient of a cosmetic composition.
• Example 3 Preparation of extract from the caudex of Adenium obesum
• the caudex of Adenium obesum is recovered, crushed and extracted cold by maceration with stirring for 5 h with distilled water in a ratio by weight of 1 to 20, filtered and lyophilized.
• This vacuum or freeze-dried extract can be used as it is as a cosmetic agent or as an active ingredient of a cosmetic composition.
• One variant will be the redispersion in an ad hoc medium, a glycol for example, of said extract.
• Normal human keratinocytes are cultured in triplicate in SFM medium (serum free medium, Invitrogen) containing 0.25 ng / ml of EGF (epidermal growth factor, Invitrogen) and 25 ⁇ g / ml of pituitary extract (Invitrogen). in a saturated atmosphere at 37 ° C and 5% CO 2 .
• SFM medium serum free medium, Invitrogen
• EGF epidermal growth factor
• Invitrogen pituitary extract
• the cultures are brought to confluence and then cultivated again for 6 days (postconfluence).
• Adenium obesum extract obtained according to Example 1, at 10% w / v (w / v) in dimethylsulfoxide (DMSO) at the final concentrations in the cultures of 0.02. and 0.04% w / v.
• DMSO dimethylsulfoxide
• Control cultures also made in triplicate, received the same amount of DMSO solvent during the same time.
• the culture supernatants are removed, the cell layer rinsed twice with PBS (phosphate buffered saline available from Invitrogen).
• PBS phosphate buffered saline available from Invitrogen.
• the cells are then lysed in the presence of 300 ⁇ l / well of Trireagent TM culture (Sigma) and then frozen at -80 ° C. until use to extract the RNAs.
• the total RNAs of each cell sample are extracted according to the standard protocol provided by Sigma.
• the total mRNAs are then subjected to reverse transcription in the presence of the oligo (dT) primers and the reverse transcriptase enzyme (Superscript II from Gibco) in order to obtain the corresponding total complementary DNA (cDNA).
• dT oligo
• cDNA total complementary DNA
• PCR polymerase chain reaction
• the final reaction mixture consists of: - cDNA,
• control in the figures
• control in the figures
• results indicated below and represented in the figures correspond to the arithmetic mean of the expression values measured on three test cultures, the mean itself normalized by compared to the control represented by the arithmetic mean of the values obtained for the three control cultures.
• the tested Adenium obesum extract stimulates both the expression of desmoglein 1 and desmoplakin, which are the main constitutive proteins of desmosomal junctions.
• the Adenium obesum extracts according to the invention make it possible to perform stimulations of the expression of the mRNAs which allow the biosynthesis of the desmosomal proteins.
• the extracts of Adenium obesum make it possible to reinforce the cutaneous barrier and / or the cohesion of the dermal-epidermal junction.
• extracts therefore constitute cosmetic agents or active ingredients that make it possible to prevent or slow down the effects of aging of the skin or to obtain a moisturizing or moisturizing effect.
• Example 5 Regenerating moisturizing serum comprising an extract of Adenium obesum
• a regenerating moisturizing serum comprising a Adenium obesum extract obtained according to one of Examples 1 to 3.
• the formula is the following (% expressed as dry weight relative to the weight of the composition):
• Regenerating moisturizing serum including Adenium obesum extract is to apply and penetrate before putting on makeup.
• a high protection moisturizing day cream comprising an Adenium obesum extract obtained according to one of Examples 1 to 3 is prepared.
• the formula is the following (% expressed as dry weight relative to the weight of the composition):
• a restructuring night cream comprising an Adenium obesum extract obtained according to one of Examples 1 to 3 is prepared.
• the formula is the following (% expressed as dry weight relative to the weight of the composition):
• the restructuring night cream is to be applied in the evening at bedtime.
• a moisturizing and lightening day cream comprising an Adenium obesum extract obtained according to one of the examples 1 to 3 is prepared.
• the formula is the following (% expressed as dry weight relative to the weight of the composition): 0.2% Adenium obesum extract
• Example 9 Hydrogel Mask A hydrogel mask is prepared comprising an Adenium obesum extract obtained according to one of Examples 1 to 3.
• the formula is the following (% expressed as dry weight relative to the weight of the composition)
• a protective moisturizing foundation comprising an Adenium obesum extract obtained according to one of Examples 1 to 3.
• the formula is the following (% expressed as dry weight relative to the weight of the composition):
• the Adenium obesum extract is previously adsorbed on the nylon powder to be used in a moisturizing foundation.

Landscapes

• Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
• Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
• Public Health (AREA)
• General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
• Dermatology (AREA)
• Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
• Biotechnology (AREA)
• Mycology (AREA)
• Epidemiology (AREA)
• Birds (AREA)
• Microbiology (AREA)
• Botany (AREA)
• Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
• Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
• Bioinformatics & Cheminformatics (AREA)
• Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
• Toxicology (AREA)
• General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
• Medicinal Chemistry (AREA)
• Nuclear Medicine, Radiotherapy & Molecular Imaging (AREA)
• Pharmacology & Pharmacy (AREA)
• Organic Chemistry (AREA)
• Cosmetics (AREA)

Priority Applications (3)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Publications (2)

Family

ID=38846751

Family Applications (1)

Country Status (5)

Cited By (3)

Families Citing this family (10)

Family Cites Families (37)

• 2007
  • 2007-05-11 FR FR0755042A patent/FR2915897B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
• 2008
  • 2008-05-07 WO PCT/FR2008/050811 patent/WO2008152268A2/fr not_active Ceased
  • 2008-05-07 US US12/599,591 patent/US8377486B2/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
  • 2008-05-07 DE DE112008001242.3T patent/DE112008001242B4/de not_active Expired - Fee Related
  • 2008-05-07 JP JP2010506984A patent/JP5669132B2/ja not_active Expired - Fee Related

Also Published As

Similar Documents

Legal Events