Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q15/00—Anti-perspirants or body deodorants
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
  • A61K8/046—Aerosols; Foams
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
  • A61K8/466—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
  • A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
  • A61K8/8182—Copolymers of vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/08—Preparations for bleaching the hair
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

• the invention relates to cosmetic compositions for cleaning or care of the skin and hair, which are thickened with a crosslinked copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid.
• Modern cosmetic compositions for cleaning or caring for the skin and hair have to meet the multiple requirements of the consumer.
• good cleansing power for shampoos, shower and foam baths, facial cleaners, make-up removers, etc. good conditioning effect without stressful build-up effects for hair conditions and treatments, moisture retention, strengthening of the skin's barrier function and improvement of the appearance of the skin with skin creams, gels, lotions, masks etc. as well as good deodorant or antiperspirant effect of deodorants and antiperspirants - further cosmetic effects are expected.
• this can be, for example, a skin or hair conditioning, moisturizing or moisturizing effect
• this can be the treatment of wrinkles, skin lightening or tanning or the concealment of skin imperfections and imperfections, and of a deodorant or Antiperspirant product, for example, is expected to leave little or no residue in contact with clothing.
• Cosmetic compositions are usually liquid-liquid dispersions of an aqueous and an oil phase. To stabilize such emulsions, emulsifiers and / or dispersants are required. In addition to the stabilizing effect, some emulsifiers also have cosmetic properties; For example, the emulsifiers PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate and the acyl lactylates are suitable as refatting agents. Numerous nonionic and anionic emulsifiers and solubilizers contain alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene oxide groups, in order to adjust the hydrophilicity of the emulsifier or its HLB value. The content of alkylene oxide groups in the molecule influences the biodegradability of an emulsifier. Under the aspect of Environmental compatibility, emulsifiers with an average content of at most 10 alkylene oxide groups per molecule are preferred.
• alkoxylated, in particular ethoxylated, types of emulsifiers can occasionally lead to irritation or irritation in consumers with very sensitive skin or when used in the eye area. Since good skin, eye and mucous membrane compatibility is a particularly important criterion when assessing a cosmetic composition by the consumer, alkoxylated, in particular ethoxylated, emulsifiers are avoided when formulating particularly mild skin and body care products.
• Oils and fats are an essential part of skin and hair care. They strengthen the barrier function and reduce the loss of moisture in the skin. They can also improve the structure and shine of the hair. Through their spreading and feeding behavior, the oils and fats used largely determine the tactile-sensory impression that is created when the composition is applied to the skin or hair. This feeling on the skin is another important criterion when evaluating a cosmetic composition by the user. Certain oils, especially natural triglyceride oils, are perceived by some users as greasy or sticky. When formulating cosmetic compositions containing such oils and fats, care must therefore be taken to add ingredients that do not further increase the stickiness or even reduce it.
• Difficulties with storage and / or temperature stability can also arise when formulating compositions containing pigments, e.g. B. creams containing larger pigment particles, for. B. make-ups, masks, peeling or massage creams or day creams with reflex effects, but also with light stabilizers with inorganic UV filter particles in the nanometer range.
• pigments e.g. B. creams containing larger pigment particles, for. B. make-ups, masks, peeling or massage creams or day creams with reflex effects, but also with light stabilizers with inorganic UV filter particles in the nanometer range.
• polymeric thickeners used, for example based on polyacrylates or copolymers with 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propane sulfonic acid.
• Combinations of different thickener types can show synergistic stabilizing effects depending on the formulation, which leads to lower amounts of polymer used and thus to cost advantages.
• An object of the present invention was to provide cosmetic compositions that are stable in storage and / or temperature. Another object of the present invention was to provide sensory, in particular tactile-sensory, appealing cosmetic compositions for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, for the caring, deforming, coloring or bleaching treatment of the hair and for the deodorant and / or antiperspirant treatment of the skin, in particular the armpits . Another object of the present invention was to provide aesthetically pleasing cosmetic compositions with excellent nourishing and conditioning properties. Another object of the present invention was to provide cosmetic compositions with favorable environmental properties, in particular with regard to their biodegradability. Another object of the present invention was to provide particularly mild cosmetic compositions with high eye and mucous membrane compatibility.
• a first object of the present invention is a cosmetic composition
• a cosmetic composition comprising a) at least one crosslinked copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propane sulfonic acid, which is partially or completely neutralized, and b) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, selected from i) nonionic, anionic and ampholytic emulsifiers, selected from linear C 6 -C u fatty alcohols, linear and branched C e -C 3 o fatty acids, if desired with functional groups in the alkyl chain and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts, esters of optionally alkylated sugars with C 6 -C 3 o-fatty acids, C 8 -C 22 alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides, partial esters of propylene glycol , Glycerin and sorbitan with C 8 -C 22 fatty acids,
• ie can carry functional groups in the alkyl chain, sterols, phospholipids, the esterification products of lactic acid or glycolic acid with linear or branched C 8 -C 22 fatty acids, alkyl and alkenyl phosphates of the general formula (I),
• R 1 is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms
• R 2 and R 3 independently of one another are a hydrogen atom, X or a radical (CH 2 CH 2 O) n R 1 , n numbers from 0 to 10 and X represents an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation or a cation NR 4 R 5 R 6 R 7 , with R 4 to R 7 independently of one another representing a Ci - C 4 hydrocarbon radical, acylglutamates of the formula
• R CO for a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and X for hydrogen, an alkali and / or alkaline earth limetallic, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium ion, esters of a hydroxy-substituted di- or tricarboxylic acid of the formula (III),
• X H or a -CH 2 COOR group
• R, R 1 and R 2 are independent of each other a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation, a.
• Ammonium group the cation of an ammonium-organic base or a radical Z which derives from a poly-hydroxylated organic compound which comes from the group of etherified (C 6 -C 18 ) -alkyl polysaccharides with 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units and / or etherified aliphatic (C 6 -C 16 ) hydroxyalkyl polyols having 2 to 16 hydroxyl radicals is selected, provided that at least one of the groups R, R 1 or R 2 is a radical Z, esters of the sulfosuccinic acid salt of the general formula (IV )
• R 1 and R 2 independently of one another denote a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium organic base or a radical Z which comes from a polyhydroxylated organic compound which belongs to the group of etherified (C 6 -C 18 ) -alkyl polysaccharides with 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units and / or the etherified aliphatic (C 6 -C 16 ) -hydroxyalkyl polyols with 2 to 16 hydroxyl radicals is selected, provided that at least one of the groups R 1 or R 2 is a Z radical and X + is an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group or the cation of an ammonium organic base, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyeth
• the crosslinked copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid contained in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be obtained by copolymerizing these two monomers in Presence of ammonium hydroxide and a crosslinking agent.
• the crosslinking can be carried out with the aid of polyolefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylene bisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallyl polyglyceryl ether, or allyl ether of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose.
• Methylene bisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.
• a particularly suitable copolymer is the commercial product Aristoflex ® AVC (ex Clariant), which is in the form of the ammonium salt as a white powder.
• the crosslinked copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid in the compositions according to the invention is 0.1-2.5% by weight, preferably 0.2 - 2.0 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.5 - 1.5 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.
• a class of emulsifiers preferred according to the invention are linear saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated fatty alcohols having 6 to 30, preferably 10 to 22 and very particularly preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms, which are, if desired, functionalized with hydroxyl groups.
• octanol (caprylic alcohol), octenol, octadienol, decanol (capric alcohol), decenol, decadienol, dodecanol (lauryl alcohol), dodecenol, dodecadienol, ricinol alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and erucyl alcohol, which list is intended to be exemplary and not limiting.
• fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reducing naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols can also be used according to the invention .
• Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ® , for example Stenol ® 1618 or Lanette ® , for. B. Lanette ® O and Lanette ® 22, or Lorol ® , for example Lorol ® C18, commercially available.
• wool wax alcohols can also be used.
• Cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are particularly preferred.
• the fatty alcohols are used in amounts of 0.1-20% by weight, preferably 0.5-10% by weight, based in each case on the total composition.
• Another class of emulsifiers preferred according to the invention are linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6-30, preferably 10-22, carbon atoms.
• Emersol ® 871 and Emersol ® 875 were, for example, to name the isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ® 871 and Emersol ® 875, and lsopalmitin Textren as the commercial product Edenor ® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ® (Cognis) fatty acids.
• fatty acids are caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic, Petroselin acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, Gadolein Textre, behenic acid, erucic acid and dimers of unsaturated fatty acids and their technical mixtures.
• the fatty acid cuts that are obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil are usually particularly preferred; the use of stearic acid is generally particularly preferred.
• fatty acids with a basic agent, e.g. B. sodium hydroxide, neutralized and used for example in the form of their sodium, potassium, ammonium, calcium, magnesium and zinc salts.
• a basic agent e.g. B. sodium hydroxide
• the fatty acids or their salts are used according to the invention in amounts of 0.1-15% by weight, preferably 0.5-10% by weight and particularly preferably 1-5% by weight, in each case based on the total composition.
• emulsifiers preferred according to the invention are the esters of alkylated sugars, if desired, with C 6 -C 3 o-fatty acids.
• Any mono- or oligosaccharides can be used as sugar.
• Monosaccharides with 5 or 6 carbon atoms are usually used, for example ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, old rose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and the deoxy sugar rhamnose and fucose.
• Sugar with 4 carbon atoms can also be used, e.g. B. Erythrosis and threosis.
• Suitable oligosaccharides according to the invention are composed of two to ten monosaccharide units, e.g. B. sucrose (sucrose), lactose or trehalose.
• Preferred sugar building blocks are the monosaccharides glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and the disaccharide sucrose; Glucose and sucrose are particularly preferred.
• the sugars can be partially etherified with methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl or butyl groups, for example methyl glucoside, ethyl glucoside or butyl glucoside. All C 6 -C 30 fatty acids and mixtures thereof which have already been mentioned above can be used for the esterification.
• Suitable are basically simple and multi-esterified sugars; mono-, sesqui- and diesters are preferred, for example sucrose monostearate, sucrose distearate, sucrose monococoate, sucrose dicocoate, methyl glucoside monostearate,
• the sugar esters are used in amounts of 0.1-15% by weight, preferably 0.5-10% by weight and particularly preferably 1-5% by weight, in each case based on the overall composition.
• alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides are preferred according to the invention.
• Alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides correspond to the general formula RO- (Z) x , where R stands for a C 8 -C 22 alkyl group, Z for sugar and x for the number of sugar units.
• R stands for a C 8 -C 22 alkyl group
• Z stands for sugar and x for the number of sugar units.
• the alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides which can be used according to the invention may contain only one specific alkyl radical R.
• Alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides in which R consists essentially of C 8 and C 0 alkyl groups, essentially of C 12 and C 14 alkyl groups, essentially of C 8 to C 16 alkyl groups or im are particularly preferred consists essentially of C 12 - to C 16 alkyl groups.
• Preferred sugar units are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.
• the alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average 1, 1-5, preferably 1.1-2.0 and particularly preferably 1.1-1.8 sugar units.
• the alkoxylated homologs of the alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides mentioned can also be used according to the invention.
• These homologues can contain an average of up to 10 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units per alkyl glycoside unit.
• cocoylglucoside, decylglucoside, laurylglucoside, cetearylglucoside and arachidylglucoside are suitable.
• the mixtures of alkyl mono- and oligoglucosides and fatty alcohols eg. B. the commercially available products Montanov ® 68 and Montanov ® 202.
• the alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides are used in amounts of 0.1-15% by weight, preferably 0.5-10% by weight and particularly preferably 1-5% by weight, in each case based on the overall composition ,
• Another class of emulsifiers preferred according to the invention are the partial esters of propylene glycol, glycerol and sorbitan with C 8 -C 22 fatty acids. All C 8 -C 22 fatty acids and mixtures thereof which have already been mentioned above can be used for the esterification.
• Particularly suitable examples are propylene glycol monostearate, glycerol monolaurate, glycerol monostearate, glycerol distearate, glycerol monooleate, sorbitan monolaurate, Sorbitandilaurat, sorbitan monostearate, Sorbitansesquistearat, sorbitan distearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan dioleate, or the commercial products Monomuls ® 90 O 18, Monomuls ® 90-L 12 and Cutina ® MD , These emulsifiers can contain an average of up to 10 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units per molecule.
• the partial esters of propylene glycol, glycerol and sorbitan are used in amounts of 0.1-15% by weight, preferably 0.3-10% by weight and particularly preferably 0.5-5% by weight, based in each case on the entire composition.
• emulsifiers preferred according to the invention are the sterols (sterols), in particular cholesterol, lanosterol, ⁇ -sitosterol, stigmasterol, campesterol and ergosterol, and mycosterols.
• Commercial sterol emulsifiers are made on the basis of soy or rapeseed sterols. According to the invention, preference is given to the use of sterols which contain 5-10 ethylene oxide units per molecule.
• B. the commercial products General ® 122, General ® 122 E 5, General ® 122 E 10 and General ® RE 10.
• the sterol emulsifiers are used in amounts of 0.1- 15% by weight, preferably 0.5-10% by weight and particularly preferably 1-5% by weight, based in each case on the entire composition.
• emulsifiers preferred according to the invention are the phospholipids, especially the phosphatidylcholines or lecithins.
• Phospholipids are phosphoric acid diesters, more rarely monoesters, of mostly linear saturated and unsaturated C 8 -C 22 fatty acids.
• Preferred according to the invention is soy lecithin, which, if desired, can be partially or completely hardened and in amounts of 0.1-5% by weight, preferably 0.5-3% by weight and particularly preferably 0.5-2% by weight, each based on the total composition.
• esterification products of lactic acid or glycolic acid with linear or branched C 8 -C 22 fatty acids and the sodium, potassium, ammonium, calcium, magnesium and zinc salts of these esterification products are particularly preferred.
• R 1 is a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 5 to 21 carbon atoms and R 2 is a methyl group or a hydrogen atom and n is an integer from 1-4.
• Compounds of the general formula (V) preferred according to the invention have a caproyl, capryloyl, caprinoyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, cetoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, isostearoyl or oleoyl group as the acyl radical R CO.
• the stearoyl and isostearoyl groups are particularly preferred.
• Compounds of the general formula (V) which are particularly preferred according to the invention have a methyl group as the radical R 2 .
• Compounds of the general formula (V) which are particularly preferred according to the invention have a degree of oligomerization n of 1 or 2.
• the compound sodium stearoyl 2-lactylate is particularly preferred.
• the emulsifiers of this class are used in a pH range from 4.0 to 6.5, preferably 4.5 to 6.0 and particularly preferably at pH 5.5.
• Amounts according to the invention are 0.1-5% by weight, preferably 0.5-3% by weight and particularly preferably 0.5-2% by weight, in each case based on the overall composition.
• emulsifiers preferred according to the invention are phosphoric acid mono-, di- and triesters of saturated or unsaturated linear or branched fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and their ethylene oxide adducts with 1-10 ethylene oxide groups per molecule. These alkyl and alkenyl phosphates are shown in the general formula (I)
• R 1 is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms
• R 2 and R 3 independently of one another are a hydrogen atom, X or a radical (CH 2 CH 2 O) n R 1 , n numbers from 0 to 10 and X represents an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation or a cation NR 4 R 5 R 6 R 7 , with R 4 to R 7 independently of one another representing a C 1 -C 4 hydrocarbon radical.
• alkyl and alkenyl phosphates preferred according to the invention have, as group R 1, alkyl radicals with 12-18 carbon atoms, which can be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched.
• groups R 1 are in particular lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, palmityl, stearyl, isostearyl and oleyl.
• Preferred values for n are either 0 or values from 1-10, preferably 2-5, particularly preferably 3-4 (alkyl or alkenyl ether phosphates). It is further preferred to use ester mixtures of mono-, di- and triesters, the proportion of mono- and diesters predominating over the proportion of triesters. However, the use of pure trieste may also be preferred.
• Suitable commercial products come from e.g. B. from the Hostaphat ® series (ex Clariant), e.g. B. Hostaphat ® KW 340 D, Hostaphat ® KO 300 N, Hostaphat ® KO 380 and Hostaphat ® KL 340.
• Amounts according to the invention are 0.1-5% by weight, preferably 0.5-3% by weight and particularly preferred 0.5 - 2 wt .-%, each based on the entire composition.
• emulsifiers preferred according to the invention are the acylglutamates of the formula (II),
• R 1 CO represents a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds
• X represents hydrogen, an alkali metal and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium, for example acylglutamates, which are derived from fatty acids with 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as Cx ⁇ / u- or C 12 / ⁇ 8 coconut fatty acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid and / or stearic acid, especially sodium-N- cocoyl and sodium N-stearoyl-L-glutamate.
• X H or a -CH 2 COOR group
• R, R 1 and R 2 are independent of each other is a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium organic base or a radical Z which derives from a polyhydroxylated organic compound which comes from the group of etherified (C 6 -C 18 ) -alkyl polysaccharides with 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units and / or the etherified aliphatic (C 6 -C 16 ) -hydroxyalkyl polyols with 2 to 16 hydroxyl radicals, provided that at least one of the groups R, R 1 or R 2 is a Z radical.
• esters of the sulfosuccinic acid salt of the general formula (IV) are preferred according to the invention.
• R 1 and R 2 independently of one another are a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium-organic base or a radical Z which is derived from a polyhydroxylated organic compound which is selected from the group of the etherified (C 6 -C 18 ) -alkyl polysaccharides with 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units and / or the etherified aliphatic (C 6 -C 16 ) -hydro - xyalkyl polyols having 2 to 16 hydroxyl radicals is selected, provided that at least one of the groups R 1 or R 2 is a Z radical and X + is an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group or the cation of an ammonium organic base.
• R 1 and R 2 independently of one another are a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the c
• emulsifiers preferred according to the invention are the sulfosuccinic acid and dialkyl esters with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 ethoxy groups and their alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium salts.
• emulsifiers preferred according to the invention are the esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols, the addition products of about 2-10 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms and their alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium salts.
• acyl sarcosinates with a linear
• oils and fats preferred according to the invention are the triglycerides of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C 8 . 30 fatty acids, especially vegetable oils, such as sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil, castor oil and the liquid components of coconut oil and synthetic triglyceride oils, e.g. B. the commercial product Myritol ® 318. Hardened triglycerides are also preferred according to the invention.
• oils and fats preferred according to the invention are the benzoic acid esters of linear or branched C 8 . 2 2-alkanols, e.g. B. the Commercial products Finsolv ® SB (isostearyl benzoate), Finsolv ® TN (C 2 -C 15 alkyl benzoate) and Finsolv ® EB (ethylhexyl benzoate).
• Finsolv ® SB isostearyl benzoate
• Finsolv ® TN C 2 -C 15 alkyl benzoate
• Finsolv ® EB ethylhexyl benzoate
• dialkyl ether having a total of 12 to 36 carbon atoms, especially 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ® OE), di-n-decyl ether, di- n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl-n-octyl ether, n-octyl-n-decyl ether, n-decyl-n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n- dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyl decyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octy
• oils and fats preferred according to the invention are paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils, e.g. B. the commercial products of the Permethyl ® series, squalane, squalene, synthetic hydrocarbons such as polyisobutene and alicyclic hydrocarbons, for. B. the commercial product 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyI) cyclohexane (Cetiol ® S).
• Another class of oils and fats preferred according to the invention are branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, e.g. B. isostearyl alcohol, and Guerbet alcohols.
• hydroxycarboxylic acid alkyl esters are full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid.
• Other basically suitable hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are esters of ⁇ -hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid.
• Primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols with 8-22 C atoms are suitable as alcohol components of these esters.
• the esters of C 2 -C 5 fatty alcohols are particularly preferred.
• esters of this type are commercially available, eg under the trademark Cosmacol® ® EniChem, Augusta Industriale.
• Another class of the present invention preferred oils and fats are dicarboxylic klareester of linear or branched C 2 -C 10 alkanols, such as di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ® B), di- (2-ethyIhexyl) adipate, di- ( 2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecylacelate as well as diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol di-isotridecanoate, propylene glycol I-di (2-ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol di-isostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol and di-isostearate neopentylglycol.
• oils and fats are symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in DE-OS 197 56 454, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ® CC).
• Another class of oils and fats preferred according to the invention are the esters of dimers of unsaturated C 12 -C 22 fatty acids (dimer fatty acids) with monovalent linear, branched or cyclic C 2 -C 18 alkanols or with polyvalent linear or branched C 2 -C 6 alkanols. Paraffin waxes, ozokerite, micro waxes and ceresin can also be used according to the invention.
• the oil and fat components mentioned can be pure or in mixtures in amounts of 0.1-90% by weight, preferably 2-60% by weight and particularly preferably 5-30% by weight, in each case based on the total Composition, are used.
• the solid inorganic and organic particles contained according to the invention are selected from inert, finely divided adsorbents, abrasive components and coloring, effect and light protection pigments, and from mixtures of the substances mentioned.
• Particulate, inorganic and organic cosmetic adsorbents suitable for adsorbing sebum, for example, with average particle diameters of 1 to 100 ⁇ m are used as matting agents for non-therapeutic treatment of oily skin.
• the adsorbents are selected from pyrogenic silicas, e.g. B. the Aerosil ® types, precipitated silicas, silica gels, silicon dioxide, clays, z. B. bentonite or kaolin, magnesium aluminum silicates, e.g. B.
• talc, and boron nitride optionally modified starches and starch derivatives, cellulose powders, lactoglobulin derivatives, polymer powders made of polyolefins, polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyamides, polyesters, polystyrenes, polyacrylates, (meth) acrylate or (meth) acrylate-vinylidene copoly- mers, which can be cross-linked, Teflon or silicones, as well as mixtures of the substances mentioned.
• Polymer powders based on a polymethacrylate copolymer are e.g. B. available as a commercial product Polytrap ® 6603 (Dow Corning).
• Other polymer powders, e.g. B. based on polyamides, are available under the name Orgasol ® 1002 (polyamide-6) and Orgasol ® 2002 (polyamide-12) from Elf Atochem.
• Orgasol ® 1002 polyamide-6
• Orgasol ® 2002 polyamide-12
• Other polymer powders which are suitable for the purpose according to the invention are e.g. B.
• talc silica, silica gel, sodium C 8 - ⁇ 6 -lsoalkyl- succinyllactoglobulinsulfonat from Brooks Industries available as a commercial product Biopol ® OE, modified starch derivatives of type DRY FLO ® of National Starch and Chemical Company, Orgasol ® and Polytrap ® 6603.
• Talc is particularly preferred, Silicon dioxide, Biopol ® OE, starch derivatives of the DRY FLO ® type and the polymer powder Polytrap ® 6603.
• the abrasive components suitable for cosmetic skin peeling are selected according to the invention from ground plant parts such as almond bran or wheat bran, crystalline cellulose, hardened jojoba oil (jojoba beads), polymer beads, preferably made from polyethylene or polyamide-11, with average diameters of 90-600 ⁇ m, and from active ingredient-containing micro- or millicapsules containing petrochemical polymers (e.g. from polyamide such as nylon-11) and / or biopolymers such as gelatin, pectin, vegetable gums, alginates and carrageenan.
• Almond bran, wheat bran, hardened jojoba oil and polymer beads, in particular polyethylene beads, are preferably used as peeling substances.
• Micro or millicapsules containing active ingredients are also preferred.
• the commercial capsules are often referred to as aqueous polymer dispersion before, for example, the particularly preferred Millicapsules ® Lipotec SA (INCI name: Aqua, Tocopheryl Acetate, Glycerine, carbomer, Sebacic Acid, agar, Green colourant, Alginic Acid).
• compositions according to the invention can furthermore contain both colored and colorless pigments.
• Some of the pigments mentioned below also serve as UV absorbers or light protection pigments.
• Particularly preferred color pigments are selected from the iron oxides with the color index numbers Cl 77491 (iron oxide red), Cl 77492 (iron oxide hydrate yellow) and Cl 77499 (iron oxide black), from Cl 77891 (titanium dioxide) and carbon black.
• Other preferred color pigments are selected from Cl 15510, Cl 15585, Cl 15850, Cl 15985, Cl 45170, Cl 45370, Cl 45380, Cl 45425, Cl 45430, Cl 73360, and Cl 75470.
• effect pigments are to be understood as pigments which, due to their refractive properties, produce special optical effects. Effect pigments give the treated surface (skin, hair, mucous membrane) gloss or glitter effects or can optically conceal skin imperfections and wrinkles due to diffuse light scattering. Interference pigments are preferred according to the invention as a special embodiment of the effect pigments. Effect pigments which are particularly suitable according to the invention are, for example, mica particles which are coated with at least one metal oxide. In addition to mica, a layered silicate, silica gel and other Si0 2 modifications are also suitable as carriers. A metal oxide that is frequently used for coating is, for example, titanium dioxide, to which iron oxide can be added if desired.
• the reflection properties can be influenced via the size and shape (e.g.
• oxides e.g. B. iron oxide
• effect pigments e.g. B. bismuth oxychloride (BiOCI) and the oxides of, for example, titanium, in particular the TiO 2 modifications anatase and rutile, aluminum, tantalum, niobium, zirconium and hafnium.
• Effect pigments can also be produced with magnesium fluoride (MgF 2 ) and calcium fluoride (fluorspar, CaF 2 ).
• Suitable particle size distributions are sufficient e.g. B. from 2 - 50 ⁇ m, 5 - 25 ⁇ m, 5 - 40 ⁇ m, 5 - 60 ⁇ m, 5 - 95 ⁇ m, 5 - 100 ⁇ m, 10 - 60 ⁇ m, 10 - 100 ⁇ m, 10 - 125 ⁇ m, 20 - 100 ⁇ m, 20 - 150 ⁇ m and ⁇ 15 ⁇ m.
• a wider particle size distribution, e.g. B. from 20 - 150 microns produces glittering effects, while a narrower particle size distribution of ⁇ 15 microns ensures an even silky appearance.
• particularly suitable commercial products come for example from the product lines Timiron ® or Ronasphere ® (both ex Merck KGaA).
• compositions according to the invention contain the effect pigments in amounts of 0.1-20% by weight, preferably 0.5-10 and particularly preferably 1-5% by weight, in each case based on the overall composition.
• the preferred inorganic light protection pigments according to the invention are finely dispersed or colloidally dispersed metal oxides and metal salts, for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc) and barium sulfate.
• the particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm, so-called nanopigments. They can have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use particles which have an ellipsoidal shape or shape which differs from the spherical shape in some other way.
• the pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobicized.
• Typical examples are coated titanium dioxide, such as. B. Titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex ® T2000 (Merck). Silicones, and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones, are particularly suitable as hydrophobic coating agents. Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are particularly preferred.
• the preferred inorganic particle substances are hydrophilic or amphiphilic. They can advantageously be surface-coated, in particular surface-treated ("coated"). Examples include titanium dioxide pigments coated with aluminum stearate (commercial product MT 100 T from Tayca), zinc oxide coated with dimethylpolysiloxane (Dimethicone), boron nitride coated with Dimethicone (Tres BN ® UHP 1106 from Carborundum), with a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane and silica gel ( Simethicone) and aluminum oxide hydrate (alumina) coated titanium dioxide (Eusolex ® T 2000 from Merck), titanium dioxide coated with octylsilanol or spherical polyalkylsesquioxane particles (Aerosil ® R972 and Aerosil ® 200V from Degussa).
• titanium dioxide pigments coated with aluminum stearate commercial product MT 100 T from Tayca
• the organic light protection pigments are substances which are crystalline at room temperature and are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and absorb the energy absorbed in the form of longer-wave radiation, e.g. B. heat to release again.
• UVA filters and UVB filters.
• the UVA and UVB filters can be used both individually and in mixtures. The use of filter mixtures is preferred according to the invention.
• the organic UV filters suitable according to the invention are selected from the derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, cinnamic acid esters, diphenyl-acrylic acid esters, benzophenone, camphor, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, o-amino-benzoic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles, 1,3,5-triazines, which are solid at room temperature. monomeric and oligomeric 4,4-diarylbutadienecarboxylic acid esters and carboxamides, ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane, benzalmalonic acid esters and any mixtures of the components mentioned.
• the organic UV filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
• Oil-soluble UV filters which are particularly preferred according to the invention are 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) - 3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione (Parsol ® 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) -Pro-pan-1, 3-dione, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene ) -D, L-camphor, 2- ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 4 Propyl methoxy cinnamate, isopentyl 4-methoxy cinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenyl cinnamate
• Preferred water-soluble UV filters are 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts, sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5 -sulfonic acid and its salts, sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene-camphor, such as.
• compositions according to the invention contain the inorganic and organic light protection pigments in amounts of 0.1-30% by weight, preferably 1-20% by weight and particularly preferably 2-15% by weight, in each case based on the overall composition.
• compositions according to the invention can contain a further polymer which is selected from partially or completely neutralized, optionally crosslinked polymers from at least one of the monomers acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid and 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid, the neutral comonomers selected from acrylamide and, if desired, hydroxylated Cx - C 30 -Alkyl esters of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid and maleic acid, can contain to achieve a synergistic thickening performance.
• polymers contained in the compositions according to the invention from at least one of the monomers acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid and 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1- Propanesulfonic acid are preferred anionic homopolymers and copolymers of uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids which are partially or completely neutralized.
• Particularly preferred anionic homopolymers and copolymers are crosslinked polyacrylic acids which are partially or completely neutralized. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene can be preferred crosslinking agents.
• Such polymers are, for example, the commercial products of the Carbopol ® series, such as Carbopol ® 934, 940, 941, Carbopol ® Ultrez 10, Carbopol ® ETD 2001 and 2050 as well as the products Tego Carbomer 140 and 141 and Synthalen ® L.
• the second anionic polymer contains at least one neutral comonomer selected from acrylic amide and, if desired, the hydroxylated C 1 -C 30 -alkyl esters of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid and maleic acid.
• a particularly preferred anionic copolymer contains 80-98% of an unsaturated, optionally substituted C 3 as monomer. 6- carboxylic acid or its anhydride and 2 - 20% optionally substituted acrylic acid esters of saturated C 10 . 3 o-carboxylic acids, where the copolymer can be crosslinked with the aforementioned crosslinking agents.
• Corresponding commercial products are, for example, Pemulen ® and the Carbopol ® types 954, 980, 1342 and ETD 2020 (ex BF Goodrich).
• copolymers are partially or completely neutralized, crosslinked copolymers of 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propane sulfonic acid (AMPS) and hydroxyethyl acrylate.
• these copolymers are used in the form of an inverse latex, commercially e.g. B. available under the trade name Simulgel ® NS from Seppic.
• Also particularly preferred are partially or completely neutralized, crosslinked copolymers of 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid (AMPS) and acrylamide.
• these copolymers are used in the form of an inverse latex, which, for. B. is available under the trade name Simulgel ® 600 from Seppic.
• All of the aforementioned, preferably used inverse polymer latices have in common that they contain at least one oil, selected from white mineral oils, squalane and hydrogenated polyisobutene, and at least one oil-in-water emulsifier, selected from the ethylene oxide adducts of sorbitan oleate, castor oil, if desired is cured, contain sorbitan laurate and lauryl alcohol and have a polymer content of 30-90% by weight, preferably 50-80% by weight and particularly preferably 60-75% by weight, in each case based on the total latex.
• the polymer different from the obligatory crosslinked copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propane sulfonic acid is used according to the invention in amounts of 0.1-5% by weight, preferably 0, 2-3% by weight and particularly preferably 0.3-2.5% by weight, based on the total cosmetic composition.
• polyelectrolyte monomers which are functionalized with a weak or strong acid group are partially or completely neutralized as sodium, potassium, ammonium, ethanolamine or amino acid salt.
• the present invention further relates to the use of a cosmetic composition
• a cosmetic composition comprising a) at least one crosslinked copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid, which is partially or completely neutralized , and b) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, selected from i) nonionic, anionic and ampholytic emulsifiers, selected from linear C 6 -C 30 fatty alcohols, linear and branched C 6 -C 3 o-fatty acids, if desired with functional groups in the alkyl chain and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts, esters of optionally alkylated sugars with C 6 -C 30 fatty acids, C 8 -C 22 alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides, partial esters of propylene glycol , Glycerin and sorbitan with C 8 -C 22 fatty acids, polygly
• R 1 is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms
• R 2 and R 3 independently of one another are a hydrogen atom, X or a radical (CH 2 CH 2 O) nR 1 , n numbers from 0 to 10 and X represents an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation or a cation NR R 5 R 6 R 7 , where R 4 to R 7 independently of one another represent a Ci - C - hydrocarbon radical, acylglutamates of the formula
• R 1 CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and X is hydrogen, an alkali metal and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium Ion stands, esters of a hydroxy-substituted di- or tricarboxylic acid of the formula (III),
• X H or a -CH 2 COOR group
• R, R 1 and R 2 are independent of each other is a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium organic base or a radical Z which derives from a polyhydroxylated organic compound which is selected from the group of etherified (C 6 -C 18 ) -alkyl polysaccharides with 1 up to 6 monomeric saccharide units and / or the etherified aliphatic (C 6 -C 16 ) hydroxyalkyl polyol with 2 to 16 hydroxyl radicals with the proviso that at least one of the groups R, R 1 or R 2 is a Z radical, esters of the sulfosuccinic acid salt of the general formula (IV),
• R 1 and R 2 independently of one another denote a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium organic base or a radical Z which comes from a polyhydroxylated organic compound which belongs to the group of etherified (C 6 -C 18 ) -alkyl polysaccharides with 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units and / or the etherified aliphatic (C 6 -C 16 ) -hydroxyalkyl polyols with 2 to 16 hydroxyl radicals is selected, provided that at least one of the groups R 1 or R 2 is a Z radical and X + is an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group or the cation of an ammonium organic base, monosulfonic acid and dialkyl sulfosuccinates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and monoalkyl polyoxyethyl sulfosuccin
• the inventive compositions may optionally further fat substances such as Esteröle, that is, esters of C 6 - 3 o-fatty acids with C 2 - 3 o-fatty alcohols, silicone compounds selected from decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, Dodecamethyl- cyclohexasiloxane and silicone polymers which can optionally be crosslinked, e.g. , B. polydialkylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes containing amine and / or hydroxyl groups, including in particular silicone elastomers.
• Esteröle that is, esters of C 6 - 3 o-fatty acids with C 2 - 3 o-fatty alcohols, silicone compounds selected from decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, Dodecamethyl- cyclohexasiloxane and silicone polymers which can optionally be crosslinked, e.g. ,
• Silicone elastomers are obtainable by crosslinking an organopolysiloxane containing at least 2 C 2 -C 10 alkenyl groups with terminal double bonds in each molecule with an organopolysiloxane that has at least 2 silicone-bonded hydrogen atoms in each molecule.
• the organopolysiloxane with at least 2 C 1 -C 4 -alkenyl groups with a terminal double bond in the molecule is selected from methylvinylsiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers with endethyl groupsoxane-silyloxy-copolymers with dimethyloxoxane-silylyl copolymers with dimethyloxoxane-silyloxy-copolymers Methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with
• Dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy end groups, methyl (3,3,3-trifluo- ropropyl) polysiloxanes with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and dimethylsiloxane-methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) siloxane copolymers with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups.
• the crosslinking organopolysiloxane with at least two silicone-bonded hydrogen atoms is selected from methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes with trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane
• compositions according to the invention can contain both non-emulsifying and emulsifying silicone elastomers and mixtures thereof.
• Suitable non-emulsifying silicone elastomers are commercially available, for example from Dow Corning the products DC 9040, DC 9041 or DC 9509, from General Electric, e.g. B. the commercial product SFE 839, from Shin-Etsu the commercial products KSG-15, KSG-16 or KSG-18 and from Grant Industries the products from the Gransil ® series, such as. B. Gransil RPS ® gel INCI name Cyclopentasiloxane and Polysilicone-11 or Gransil GCM-4 ®, INCI name Polysilicone-cyclotetrasiloxane and eleventh
• Suitable emulsifying silicone elastomers contain polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups as functional groups on the polysiloxane skeleton. These groups can be arranged terminally and / or as side groups to the polysiloxane chain. Suitable emulsifying silicone elastomers are commercially available, for example the products KSG-21, KSG-31, KSG-31X, KSG-32 from Shin-Etsu or the commercial product DC-9011 from Dow Corning.
• the content of non-emulsifying and / or emulsifying silicone elastomer in the compositions according to the invention is 0.1-40% by weight, preferably 0.5-20% by weight and particularly preferably 1-10% by weight, based in each case on the entire cosmetic composition.
• the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may further contain at least one protein hydrolyzate or its derivative.
• both vegetable and animal protein hydrolyzates can be used.
• Animal protein hydrolyzates are e.g. B. elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolyzates, which may also be in the form of salts.
• Vegetable protein hydrolyzates e.g. B. soybean, wheat, almond, pea, Potato and rice protein hydrolyzates.
• Corresponding commercial products are e.g. B. DiaMin ® (Diamalt), Gluadin ® (Cognis), Lexein ® (Inolex) and Crotein ® (Croda).
• additional protein hydrolysates amino acid mixtures or individual amino acids, such as arginine, lysine, histidine or pyroglutamic acid, which have otherwise been obtained, can optionally be used in their place.
• derivatives of protein hydrolyzates e.g. B. in the form of their fatty acid condensation products.
• Corresponding commercial products are e.g. B. Lamepon ® (Cognis), Gluadin ® (Cognis), Lexein ® (Inolex), Crolastin ® or Crotein ® (Croda).
• the cosmetic compositions according to the invention can contain at least one mono-, oligo- or polysaccharide.
• Suitable monosaccharides according to the invention are e.g. B. glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, old rose, mannose, gulose, idose and talose as well as the deoxy sugar fucose and rhamnose.
• Glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and fucose are preferred; Glucose is particularly preferred.
• Oligosaccharides suitable according to the invention are composed of two to ten monosaccharide units, eg. B. sucrose, lactose or trehalose.
• a particularly preferred oligosaccharide is sucrose.
• honey which predominantly contains glucose and sucrose, is also particularly preferred.
• the compositions according to the invention can contain polysaccharides with more than ten monosaccharide units.
• Preferred polysaccharides are the starches composed of ⁇ -D-glucose units and starch breakdown products such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins. Chemically and / or thermally modified starches, eg. B.
• hydroxypropyl starch phosphate dihydroxypropyl distarch phosphate or the commercial products Dry Flo ® .
• Dextrans and their derivatives e.g. B. dextran sulfate.
• nonionic cellulose derivatives such as methyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose or hydroxyethyl cellulose, and cationic cellulose derivatives, e.g. B. the commercial products Celquat ® and Polymer JR ® , and preferably Celquat ® H 100, Celquat ® L 200 and Polymer JR ® 400 (Polyquatemium-10) and Polyquaternium-24.
• compositions according to the invention are polysaccharides with fucose and / or galactose and / or galacturonic acid units, e.g. B. the commercial product Fucogel ® .
• the mono-, oligo- or polysaccharides or their derivatives are present in amounts of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 0.5-5 % By weight and particularly preferably 1.0-3% by weight, based in each case on the entire composition.
• the cosmetic compositions according to the invention can furthermore contain at least one ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acid or ⁇ -ketocarboxylic acid or its ester, lactone or salt form.
• Suitable ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids or ⁇ -ketocarboxylic acids are selected from lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-
• Hydroxyheptanoic acid 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyocta-decanoic acid, mandelic acid, 4-hydroxymandelic acid, malic acid, erythraric acid, threaric acid, glucaric acid, manic acid, manic acid, glucaric acid, manic acid, manic acid, glucaric acid, 2-hydroxy-2-methyl succinic acid, gluconic acid, pyruvic acid, glucuronic acid and galacturonic acid.
• esters of the acids mentioned are selected from the methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, amyl, pentyl, hexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl and hexadecyl esters.
• the ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids or ⁇ -ketocarboxylic acids or their derivatives are contained in amounts of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 0.5-5% by weight, based in each case on the total composition.
• the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are advantageously in the form of a liquid or solid oil-in-water emulsion, water-in-oil emulsion, multiple emulsion, microemulsion, PIT emulsion or Pickering emulsion, a hydrogel, a lipogel , a single or multi-phase solution, a foam, a powder or a mixture with at least one polymer suitable as a medical adhesive.
• the agents can also be presented in an anhydrous form, such as an oil or a balm.
• the carrier can be a vegetable or animal oil, a mineral oil, a synthetic oil or a mixture of such oils.
• the agents are in the form of a microemulsion.
• microemulsions are understood to mean not only the thermodynamically stable microemulsions but also the so-called “PIT” emulsions.
• PIT phase inversion temperature
• O / W emulsions are formed again, but which are also present at room temperature as microemulsions or as very fine-particle emulsions with an average particle diameter below 400 nm and in particular from about 100-300 nm.
• those micro- or "PIT" emulsions can be preferred which have an average particle diameter of approximately 200 nm.
• compositions according to the invention optionally also formulate with emulsifiers, dispersants or foaming surfactants which have an average of more than 10 alkylene oxide groups per molecule.
• Suitable emulsifiers are, for example, adducts of 11 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and, if appropriate, 0-5 mol of propylene oxide with linear Cs-C 2 fatty alcohols, with C 2 -C 22 fatty acids and with C 8 -C 15 alkylphenols, C 12 -C 22 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of 11-30 moles of ethylene oxide with C 3 -C 6 polyols, especially with glycerol, adducts of 11-30 moles of ethylene oxide with methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides, fatty acid glucamides and C 8 -C 22 alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides, preference being given to degrees of oligomerization of 1.1 to 5, in particular 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as the sugar component, addition products of 11 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide onto castor oil and hardened castor oil.
• compositions according to the invention preferably contain the optional emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1 to 25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total composition.
• the agents according to the invention can contain further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, for example vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B (especially panthenol), C, E and F, allantoin, bisabolol and antioxidants.
• antiperspirant active ingredients can be contained.
• Suitable antiperspirant active ingredients according to the invention are water-soluble astringent or protein-coagulating metallic salts, in particular inorganic and organic salts of aluminum, zirconium, zinc and titanium, and any mixtures of these salts.
• the liquid active substance preparations preferably contain an astringent aluminum salt, in particular aluminum chlorohydrate, and / or an aluminum-zirconium compound.
• the antiperspirant active ingredient in the compositions according to the invention is in an amount of 0.01-40% by weight, preferably 2-30% by weight and in particular 5-25% by weight, based on the amount of the active substance in the entire composition , contain.
• deodorant active ingredients can be contained.
• Suitable as deodorant active ingredients according to the invention are fragrances, antimicrobial, antibacterial or germ-inhibiting substances, enzyme-inhibiting substances, antioxidants and odor adsorbents.
• Suitable antimicrobial, antibacterial or germ-inhibiting substances are in particular C 1 -C 4 -alkanols, C 2 -C 4 -alkanediols, organohalogen compounds and halides, quaternary ammonium compounds, a number of plant extracts and zinc compounds.
• the compositions according to the invention contain at least one water-soluble polyol, selected from water-soluble diols, triols and higher-quality alcohols and polyethylene glycols.
• the diols are C 2 -C 12 diols, in particular 1, 2-propylene glycol, butylene glycols such as. B. 1, 2-butylene glycol, 1, 3-butylene glycol and 1, 4-butylene glycol, pentanediols, e.g. B. 1, 2-pentanediol, and hexanediols, e.g. B. 1,6-hexanediol.
• the compositions according to the invention contain the water-soluble polyol in amounts of 1-50% by weight, preferably 1-15% by weight and particularly preferably 1-5% by weight, in each case based on the overall composition.
• Example 4 Cream Formulation ( Figures in% by Weight)
• Soap-containing deodorant stick (figures in% by weight)
• the coloring cream had a pH of 10.0. It caused an intense red tint of the hair.

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• 2003
  • 2003-06-18 EP EP03735639A patent/EP1515686A2/de not_active Withdrawn
  • 2003-06-18 WO PCT/EP2003/006404 patent/WO2004000248A2/de active Application Filing

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