WO2004000248A2 - Thickened cosmetic composition - Google Patents

Abstract

Disclosed are cosmetic compositions for the treatment of skin, hair, and armpits, containing a partially or fully neutralized crosslinked copolymer that comprises vinylpyrrolidone and 2-methyl-2[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid, and at least one cosmetic agent selected among (a) special non-ionic, anionic, and amphoteric emulsifiers which comprise between 0 and a maximum of 10 alkylene oxide units per molecule, (b) special oils and fats, (c) solid inorganic and organic particles, the surface of which can be modified, and/or (d) partially or fully neutralized, optionally crosslinked polymers comprising at least one of the monomers acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid, and 2-methyl-2[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)-amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid which can contain neutral comonomers selected among acrylamide and the C1-C30 esters of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, and maleic acid. The inventive compositions are characterized by being highly compatible with the skin, eyes, and mucus, being highly stable during storage and at different temperatures, having excellent-quality care and conditioning properties, leaving an exceptionally pleasant sensory impression during application, and being environmentally friendly.

Description

 "Thickened Cosmetic Composition"

The invention relates to cosmetic compositions for cleaning or care of the skin and hair, which are thickened with a crosslinked copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid.

Modern cosmetic compositions for cleaning or caring for the skin and hair have to meet the multiple requirements of the consumer. In addition to fulfilling its intended purpose - good cleansing power for shampoos, shower and foam baths, facial cleaners, make-up removers, etc., good conditioning effect without stressful build-up effects for hair conditions and treatments, moisture retention, strengthening of the skin's barrier function and improvement of the appearance of the skin with skin creams, gels, lotions, masks etc. as well as good deodorant or antiperspirant effect of deodorants and antiperspirants - further cosmetic effects are expected. In the case of a cleaning agent, this can be, for example, a skin or hair conditioning, moisturizing or moisturizing effect, in the case of a skin cream or a similar composition, this can be the treatment of wrinkles, skin lightening or tanning or the concealment of skin imperfections and imperfections, and of a deodorant or Antiperspirant product, for example, is expected to leave little or no residue in contact with clothing.

Cosmetic compositions are usually liquid-liquid dispersions of an aqueous and an oil phase. To stabilize such emulsions, emulsifiers and / or dispersants are required. In addition to the stabilizing effect, some emulsifiers also have cosmetic properties; For example, the emulsifiers PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate and the acyl lactylates are suitable as refatting agents. Numerous nonionic and anionic emulsifiers and solubilizers contain alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene oxide groups, in order to adjust the hydrophilicity of the emulsifier or its HLB value. The content of alkylene oxide groups in the molecule influences the biodegradability of an emulsifier. Under the aspect of Environmental compatibility, emulsifiers with an average content of at most 10 alkylene oxide groups per molecule are preferred.

Furthermore, alkoxylated, in particular ethoxylated, types of emulsifiers can occasionally lead to irritation or irritation in consumers with very sensitive skin or when used in the eye area. Since good skin, eye and mucous membrane compatibility is a particularly important criterion when assessing a cosmetic composition by the consumer, alkoxylated, in particular ethoxylated, emulsifiers are avoided when formulating particularly mild skin and body care products.

Oils and fats are an essential part of skin and hair care. They strengthen the barrier function and reduce the loss of moisture in the skin. They can also improve the structure and shine of the hair. Through their spreading and feeding behavior, the oils and fats used largely determine the tactile-sensory impression that is created when the composition is applied to the skin or hair. This feeling on the skin is another important criterion when evaluating a cosmetic composition by the user. Certain oils, especially natural triglyceride oils, are perceived by some users as greasy or sticky. When formulating cosmetic compositions containing such oils and fats, care must therefore be taken to add ingredients that do not further increase the stickiness or even reduce it.

With higher proportions of oils and fats, in particular natural triglyceride oils, in a cosmetic composition, difficulties can also arise in setting the viscosity suitable for the respective field of application, often in connection with problems with storage and / or temperature stability.

Difficulties with storage and / or temperature stability can also arise when formulating compositions containing pigments, e.g. B. creams containing larger pigment particles, for. B. make-ups, masks, peeling or massage creams or day creams with reflex effects, but also with light stabilizers with inorganic UV filter particles in the nanometer range.

To improve the storage and / or temperature stability of emulsions (liquid-liquid dispersions) and solid-liquid dispersions are advantageously polymeric thickeners used, for example based on polyacrylates or copolymers with 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propane sulfonic acid.

Combinations of different thickener types can show synergistic stabilizing effects depending on the formulation, which leads to lower amounts of polymer used and thus to cost advantages.

An object of the present invention was to provide cosmetic compositions that are stable in storage and / or temperature. Another object of the present invention was to provide sensory, in particular tactile-sensory, appealing cosmetic compositions for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, for the caring, deforming, coloring or bleaching treatment of the hair and for the deodorant and / or antiperspirant treatment of the skin, in particular the armpits , Another object of the present invention was to provide aesthetically pleasing cosmetic compositions with excellent nourishing and conditioning properties. Another object of the present invention was to provide cosmetic compositions with favorable environmental properties, in particular with regard to their biodegradability. Another object of the present invention was to provide particularly mild cosmetic compositions with high eye and mucous membrane compatibility.

Surprisingly, it has now been found that using a combination of at least one crosslinked copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propane sulfonic acid, which is partially or completely neutralized, and at least a cosmetic active ingredient selected from a) special nonionic, anionic and amphoteric emulsifiers which have no or at most 10 alkylene oxide units per molecule, b) special oils and fats, c) solid inorganic and organic particles which can be surface-modified, and / or d) partially or completely neutralized, optionally crosslinked, polymers from at least one of the monomers acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid and 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid, the neutral comonomers , selected from acrylamide and the d-Cso-esters of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid and maleic acid, storage and temperature tabular cosmetic compositions with an extraordinarily pleasant sensory, especially tactile-sensory, impression and solutions with excellent nourishing and conditioning properties and favorable environmental behavior.

A first object of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising a) at least one crosslinked copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propane sulfonic acid, which is partially or completely neutralized, and b) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, selected from i) nonionic, anionic and ampholytic emulsifiers, selected from linear C ₆ -C _u fatty alcohols, linear and branched C _e -C ₃ o fatty acids, if desired with functional groups in the alkyl chain and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts, esters of optionally alkylated sugars with C ₆ -C ₃ o-fatty acids, C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides, partial esters of propylene glycol , Glycerin and sorbitan with C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty acids, polyglycerols of the formula HO-CH ₂ -CHOH-CH ₂ [-O-CH ₂ -CHOH-CH ₂ ] _π -O-CH ₂ -CHOH-CH ₂ OH with n = 0-8 and their esters with linear and branched C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty acids, i.e. ie can carry functional groups in the alkyl chain, sterols, phospholipids, the esterification products of lactic acid or glycolic acid with linear or branched C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty acids, alkyl and alkenyl phosphates of the general formula (I),

O

R ¹ - (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n - O - P - OR ² 0

OR ³

in which R ^{1 is} a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ² and R ³ independently of one another are a hydrogen atom, X or a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ¹ , n numbers from 0 to 10 and X represents an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation or a cation NR ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ R ⁷ , with R ⁴ to R ⁷ independently of one another representing a Ci - C ₄ hydrocarbon radical, acylglutamates of the formula

(II)

XOOC-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH-COOX

I (II)

HN-COR ¹

in the R CO for a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and X for hydrogen, an alkali and / or alkaline earth limetallic, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium ion, esters of a hydroxy-substituted di- or tricarboxylic acid of the formula (III),

X HO - C - COOR ¹ (III)

Y - CH - COOR ²

in which X = H or a -CH ₂ COOR group, Y = H or -OH is, provided that Y = H when X = -CH ₂ COOR, R, R ¹ and R ^{2 are} independent of each other a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation, a. Ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium-organic base or a radical Z which derives from a poly-hydroxylated organic compound which comes from the group of etherified (C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) -alkyl polysaccharides with 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units and / or etherified aliphatic (C ₆ -C ₁₆ ) hydroxyalkyl polyols having 2 to 16 hydroxyl radicals is selected, provided that at least one of the groups R, R ¹ or R ^{2 is} a radical Z, esters of the sulfosuccinic acid salt of the general formula (IV )

H ₂ C - COOR ¹

I (IV)

X ⁺ O ₃ S - CH - COOR ²

in which R ¹ and R ² independently of one another denote a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium organic base or a radical Z which comes from a polyhydroxylated organic compound which belongs to the group of etherified (C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) -alkyl polysaccharides with 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units and / or the etherified aliphatic (C ₆ -C ₁₆ ) -hydroxyalkyl polyols with 2 to 16 hydroxyl radicals is selected, provided that at least one of the groups R ¹ or R ^{2 is} a Z radical and X ^{+ is} an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group or the cation of an ammonium organic base, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl ester with 8 to 24 carbon atoms. Atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 ethoxy groups, esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols, the addition products of average 2-10 Represent molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide on fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 C atoms, ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group with 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 10 and their alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium salts, acyl sarcosinates with a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and their alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or Ammonium salts, acyl taurates with a linear or branched acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and their alkali, alkaline earth metal or ammonium salts, acyl isethionates with a linear or branched acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and their alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium salts, and the alkylene oxide adducts of the emulsifiers mentioned with an average of up to 10 alkylene oxide units in the molecule, ii) oils and F etten selected from triglycerides of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C _8-30 fatty acids, the benzoic säureestem of linear or branched C _8-22 alkanols, dialkyl ethers containing a total of 12 to 36 carbon atoms, paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils, synthetic hydrocarbons and alicyclic hydrocarbons, branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols with 6 - 30 carbon atoms, hydroxycarboxylic acid alkyl esters, dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C ₂ -C ₁₀ alkanols, diolestems, symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, the esters of Dimers of unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids (dimer fatty acids) with monovalent linear, branched or cyclic C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkanols or with polyvalent linear or branched C ₂ -C ₆ alkanols, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, micro waxes, ceresin and mixtures thereof Oil and fat components, iii) solid inorganic and organic particles, which can be surface-modified, and / or iv) partially or completely neutralized, optionally crosslinked, polymers of at least one of the monomers acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid and 2-methyl-2 [(1- oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid, which may contain neutral comonomers selected from acrylamide and, if desired, hydroxylated C- _\ - C ₃₀ alkyl esters of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid and maleic acid, in a suitable cosmetic Carrier.

The crosslinked copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid contained in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be obtained by copolymerizing these two monomers in Presence of ammonium hydroxide and a crosslinking agent. If desired, the crosslinking can be carried out with the aid of polyolefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylene bisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallyl polyglyceryl ether, or allyl ether of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose. Methylene bisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.

A particularly suitable copolymer is the commercial product Aristoflex ^® AVC (ex Clariant), which is in the form of the ammonium salt as a white powder. The crosslinked copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid in the compositions according to the invention is 0.1-2.5% by weight, preferably 0.2 - 2.0 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.5 - 1.5 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

A class of emulsifiers preferred according to the invention are linear saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated fatty alcohols having 6 to 30, preferably 10 to 22 and very particularly preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms, which are, if desired, functionalized with hydroxyl groups. For example, octanol (caprylic alcohol), octenol, octadienol, decanol (capric alcohol), decenol, decadienol, dodecanol (lauryl alcohol), dodecenol, dodecadienol, ricinol alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and erucyl alcohol, which list is intended to be exemplary and not limiting. Those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reducing naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols can also be used according to the invention , Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ^® , for example Stenol ^® 1618 or Lanette ^® , for. B. Lanette ^® O and Lanette ^® 22, or Lorol ^® , for example Lorol ^® C18, commercially available. According to the invention, wool wax alcohols can also be used. Cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are particularly preferred. The fatty alcohols are used in amounts of 0.1-20% by weight, preferably 0.5-10% by weight, based in each case on the total composition. Another class of emulsifiers preferred according to the invention are linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6-30, preferably 10-22, carbon atoms. Among these were, for example, to name the isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ^® 871 and Emersol ^® 875, and lsopalmitinsäuren as the commercial product Edenor ^® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ^® (Cognis) fatty acids. Other typical examples of such fatty acids are caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic, Petroselin acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, Gadoleinsäure, behenic acid, erucic acid and dimers of unsaturated fatty acids and their technical mixtures. The fatty acid cuts that are obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil are usually particularly preferred; the use of stearic acid is generally particularly preferred.

Usually the fatty acids with a basic agent, e.g. B. sodium hydroxide, neutralized and used for example in the form of their sodium, potassium, ammonium, calcium, magnesium and zinc salts.

The fatty acids or their salts are used according to the invention in amounts of 0.1-15% by weight, preferably 0.5-10% by weight and particularly preferably 1-5% by weight, in each case based on the total composition.

Another class of emulsifiers preferred according to the invention are the esters of alkylated sugars, if desired, with C ₆ -C ₃ o-fatty acids. Any mono- or oligosaccharides can be used as sugar. Monosaccharides with 5 or 6 carbon atoms are usually used, for example ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, old rose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and the deoxy sugar rhamnose and fucose. Sugar with 4 carbon atoms can also be used, e.g. B. Erythrosis and threosis. Suitable oligosaccharides according to the invention are composed of two to ten monosaccharide units, e.g. B. sucrose (sucrose), lactose or trehalose. Preferred sugar building blocks are the monosaccharides glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and the disaccharide sucrose; Glucose and sucrose are particularly preferred. The sugars can be partially etherified with methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl or butyl groups, for example methyl glucoside, ethyl glucoside or butyl glucoside. All C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty acids and mixtures thereof which have already been mentioned above can be used for the esterification. Suitable are basically simple and multi-esterified sugars; mono-, sesqui- and diesters are preferred, for example sucrose monostearate, sucrose distearate, sucrose monococoate, sucrose dicocoate, methyl glucoside monostearate,

Methyl glucoside sesquistearate, methyl glucoside isostearate, ethyl glucoside monolaurate, ethyl glucoside dilaurate, ethyl glucoside monococoate, ethyl glucoside dicocoate and butyl glucoside monococoate.

According to the invention, the sugar esters are used in amounts of 0.1-15% by weight, preferably 0.5-10% by weight and particularly preferably 1-5% by weight, in each case based on the overall composition.

Another class of emulsifiers preferred according to the invention are the Cs-C ₂₂ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides. Alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides correspond to the general formula RO- (Z) _x , where R stands for a C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl group, Z for sugar and x for the number of sugar units. The alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides which can be used according to the invention may contain only one specific alkyl radical R. Alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides in which R consists essentially of C ₈ and C ₀ alkyl groups, essentially of C ₁₂ and C ₁₄ alkyl groups, essentially of C ₈ to C ₁₆ alkyl groups or im are particularly preferred consists essentially of C ₁₂ - to C ₁₆ alkyl groups.

Any mono- or oligosaccharides, such as have already been mentioned in detail above for the emulsifier class of the sugar esters, can be used as the sugar building block Z. Preferred sugar units are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred. The alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average 1, 1-5, preferably 1.1-2.0 and particularly preferably 1.1-1.8 sugar units. The alkoxylated homologs of the alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides mentioned can also be used according to the invention. These homologues can contain an average of up to 10 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units per alkyl glycoside unit. For example, cocoylglucoside, decylglucoside, laurylglucoside, cetearylglucoside and arachidylglucoside are suitable.

In addition to the alkyl mono- and oligoglucosides mentioned, the mixtures of alkyl mono- and oligoglucosides and fatty alcohols, eg. B. the commercially available products Montanov ^® 68 and Montanov ^® 202. According to the invention, the alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides are used in amounts of 0.1-15% by weight, preferably 0.5-10% by weight and particularly preferably 1-5% by weight, in each case based on the overall composition ,

Another class of emulsifiers preferred according to the invention are the partial esters of propylene glycol, glycerol and sorbitan with C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty acids. All C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty acids and mixtures thereof which have already been mentioned above can be used for the esterification. Particularly suitable examples are propylene glycol monostearate, glycerol monolaurate, glycerol monostearate, glycerol distearate, glycerol monooleate, sorbitan monolaurate, Sorbitandilaurat, sorbitan monostearate, Sorbitansesquistearat, sorbitan distearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan dioleate, or the commercial products Monomuls ^® 90 O 18, Monomuls ^® 90-L 12 and Cutina ^® MD , These emulsifiers can contain an average of up to 10 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units per molecule. According to the invention, the partial esters of propylene glycol, glycerol and sorbitan are used in amounts of 0.1-15% by weight, preferably 0.3-10% by weight and particularly preferably 0.5-5% by weight, based in each case on the entire composition.

Another class of emulsifiers preferred according to the invention are the polyglycerols of the formula HO-CH ₂ -CHOH-CH ₂ [-O-CH ₂ -CHOH-CH ₂ ] _n -O-CH ₂ -CHOH-CH ₂ OH with n = 0-8 and their esters with linear and branched C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty acids which can carry functional groups in the alkyl chain, preferably polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ^® PGPH) and polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate (commercial product Lameform ^® TGI ). These emulsifiers are also used according to the invention in amounts of 0.1-15% by weight, preferably 0.5-10% by weight and particularly preferably 1-5% by weight, in each case based on the overall composition.

Another class of emulsifiers preferred according to the invention are the sterols (sterols), in particular cholesterol, lanosterol, β-sitosterol, stigmasterol, campesterol and ergosterol, and mycosterols. Commercial sterol emulsifiers are made on the basis of soy or rapeseed sterols. According to the invention, preference is given to the use of sterols which contain 5-10 ethylene oxide units per molecule. Are suitable for. B. the commercial products General ^® 122, General ^® 122 E 5, General ^® 122 E 10 and General ^® RE 10. According to the invention, the sterol emulsifiers are used in amounts of 0.1- 15% by weight, preferably 0.5-10% by weight and particularly preferably 1-5% by weight, based in each case on the entire composition.

Another class of emulsifiers preferred according to the invention are the phospholipids, especially the phosphatidylcholines or lecithins. Phospholipids are phosphoric acid diesters, more rarely monoesters, of mostly linear saturated and unsaturated C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty acids. Preferred according to the invention is soy lecithin, which, if desired, can be partially or completely hardened and in amounts of 0.1-5% by weight, preferably 0.5-3% by weight and particularly preferably 0.5-2% by weight, each based on the total composition.

Another class of emulsifiers preferred according to the invention are the esterification products of lactic acid or glycolic acid with linear or branched C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty acids and the sodium, potassium, ammonium, calcium, magnesium and zinc salts of these esterification products. Esterification products of the general formula (V), -, 2 are particularly preferred

wherein R ^{1 is} a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 5 to 21 carbon atoms and R ^{2 is} a methyl group or a hydrogen atom and n is an integer from 1-4. Compounds of the general formula (V) preferred according to the invention have a caproyl, capryloyl, caprinoyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, cetoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, isostearoyl or oleoyl group as the acyl radical R CO. The stearoyl and isostearoyl groups are particularly preferred. Compounds of the general formula (V) which are particularly preferred according to the invention have a methyl group as the radical R ² . Compounds of the general formula (V) which are particularly preferred according to the invention have a degree of oligomerization n of 1 or 2. The compound sodium stearoyl 2-lactylate is particularly preferred. The emulsifiers of this class are used in a pH range from 4.0 to 6.5, preferably 4.5 to 6.0 and particularly preferably at pH 5.5. Amounts according to the invention are 0.1-5% by weight, preferably 0.5-3% by weight and particularly preferably 0.5-2% by weight, in each case based on the overall composition. Another class of emulsifiers preferred according to the invention are phosphoric acid mono-, di- and triesters of saturated or unsaturated linear or branched fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and their ethylene oxide adducts with 1-10 ethylene oxide groups per molecule. These alkyl and alkenyl phosphates are shown in the general formula (I)

O

R ¹ - (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n - O - P - OR ² (0

OR ³

in which R ^{1 is} a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ² and R ³ independently of one another are a hydrogen atom, X or a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ¹ , n numbers from 0 to 10 and X represents an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation or a cation NR ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ R ⁷ , with R ⁴ to R ⁷ independently of one another representing a C ₁ -C ₄ hydrocarbon radical.

The alkyl and alkenyl phosphates preferred according to the invention have, as group R ^1, alkyl radicals with 12-18 carbon atoms, which can be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched. These groups R ¹ are in particular lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, palmityl, stearyl, isostearyl and oleyl. Preferred values for n are either 0 or values from 1-10, preferably 2-5, particularly preferably 3-4 (alkyl or alkenyl ether phosphates). It is further preferred to use ester mixtures of mono-, di- and triesters, the proportion of mono- and diesters predominating over the proportion of triesters. However, the use of pure trieste may also be preferred. Suitable commercial products come from e.g. B. from the Hostaphat ^® series (ex Clariant), e.g. B. Hostaphat ^® KW 340 D, Hostaphat ^® KO 300 N, Hostaphat ^® KO 380 and Hostaphat ^® KL 340. Amounts according to the invention are 0.1-5% by weight, preferably 0.5-3% by weight and particularly preferred 0.5 - 2 wt .-%, each based on the entire composition.

Another class of emulsifiers preferred according to the invention are the acylglutamates of the formula (II),

XOOC-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH-COOX (II)

HN-COR ¹ in which R ¹ CO represents a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and X represents hydrogen, an alkali metal and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium, for example acylglutamates, which are derived from fatty acids with 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as Cx∑ / u- or C _{12 /} ι ₈ coconut fatty acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid and / or stearic acid, especially sodium-N- cocoyl and sodium N-stearoyl-L-glutamate.

Another class of emulsifiers preferred according to the invention are the esters of a hydroxy-substituted di- or tricarboxylic acid of the general formula (III),

X

I

HO - C - COOR ¹ (IM)

I

Y _ CH - COOR ²

in which X = H or a -CH ₂ COOR group, Y = H or -OH is, provided that Y = H when X = -CH ₂ COOR, R, R ¹ and R ^{2 are} independent of each other is a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium organic base or a radical Z which derives from a polyhydroxylated organic compound which comes from the group of etherified (C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) -alkyl polysaccharides with 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units and / or the etherified aliphatic (C ₆ -C ₁₆ ) -hydroxyalkyl polyols with 2 to 16 hydroxyl radicals, provided that at least one of the groups R, R ¹ or R ^{2 is} a Z radical.

Another class of emulsifiers preferred according to the invention are the esters of the sulfosuccinic acid salt of the general formula (IV),

H ₂ C - COOR ¹ (IV)

X ⁺ O ₃ S - CH - COOR ²

in which R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium-organic base or a radical Z which is derived from a polyhydroxylated organic compound which is selected from the group of the etherified (C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) -alkyl polysaccharides with 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units and / or the etherified aliphatic (C ₆ -C ₁₆ ) -hydro - xyalkyl polyols having 2 to 16 hydroxyl radicals is selected, provided that at least one of the groups R ¹ or R ^{2 is} a Z radical and X ^{+ is} an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group or the cation of an ammonium organic base.

Another class of emulsifiers preferred according to the invention are the sulfosuccinic acid and dialkyl esters with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 ethoxy groups and their alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium salts.

Another class of emulsifiers preferred according to the invention are the esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols, the addition products of about 2-10 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms and their alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium salts. Further emulsifiers preferred according to the invention are ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group with 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 10, acyl sarcosinates with a linear or branched acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds, acyl taurate with a linear or branched acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and acyl isethionate with a linear or branched acyl radical 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds, as well as the alkali, alkaline earth metal or ammonium salts of these emulsifiers.

A class of oils and fats preferred according to the invention are the triglycerides of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C ₈ . ₃₀ fatty acids, especially vegetable oils, such as sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil, castor oil and the liquid components of coconut oil and synthetic triglyceride oils, e.g. B. the commercial product Myritol ^® 318. Hardened triglycerides are also preferred according to the invention.

Another class of oils and fats preferred according to the invention are the benzoic acid esters of linear or branched C ₈ . ₂ 2-alkanols, e.g. B. the Commercial products Finsolv ^® SB (isostearyl benzoate), Finsolv ^® TN (C ₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate) and Finsolv ^® EB (ethylhexyl benzoate).

Another class of the present invention preferred oils and fats are the dialkyl ether having a total of 12 to 36 carbon atoms, especially 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE), di-n-decyl ether, di- n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl-n-octyl ether, n-octyl-n-decyl ether, n-decyl-n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n- dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyl decyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl n-octyl ether.

Another class of oils and fats preferred according to the invention are paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils, e.g. B. the commercial products of the Permethyl ^® series, squalane, squalene, synthetic hydrocarbons such as polyisobutene and alicyclic hydrocarbons, for. B. the commercial product 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyI) cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S). Another class of oils and fats preferred according to the invention are branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, e.g. B. isostearyl alcohol, and Guerbet alcohols.

Another class of oils and fats preferred according to the invention are hydroxycarboxylic acid alkyl esters. Preferred hydroxycarboxylic acid alkyl esters are full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid. Other basically suitable hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are esters of β-hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid. Primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols with 8-22 C atoms are suitable as alcohol components of these esters. The esters of C ₂ -C ₅ fatty alcohols are particularly preferred. Esters of this type are commercially available, eg under the trademark Cosmacol® ^® EniChem, Augusta Industriale. Another class of the present invention preferred oils and fats are dicarboxylic säureester of linear or branched C ₂ -C ₁₀ alkanols, such as di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B), di- (2-ethyIhexyl) adipate, di- ( 2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecylacelate as well as diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol di-isotridecanoate, propylene glycol I-di (2-ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol di-isostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol and di-isostearate neopentylglycol.

Another class of the present invention preferred oils and fats are symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in DE-OS 197 56 454, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC). Another class of oils and fats preferred according to the invention are the esters of dimers of unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids (dimer fatty acids) with monovalent linear, branched or cyclic C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkanols or with polyvalent linear or branched C ₂ -C ₆ alkanols. Paraffin waxes, ozokerite, micro waxes and ceresin can also be used according to the invention.

The oil and fat components mentioned can be pure or in mixtures in amounts of 0.1-90% by weight, preferably 2-60% by weight and particularly preferably 5-30% by weight, in each case based on the total Composition, are used.

The solid inorganic and organic particles contained according to the invention are selected from inert, finely divided adsorbents, abrasive components and coloring, effect and light protection pigments, and from mixtures of the substances mentioned. Particulate, inorganic and organic cosmetic adsorbents suitable for adsorbing sebum, for example, with average particle diameters of 1 to 100 μm are used as matting agents for non-therapeutic treatment of oily skin. The adsorbents are selected from pyrogenic silicas, e.g. B. the Aerosil ^® types, precipitated silicas, silica gels, silicon dioxide, clays, z. B. bentonite or kaolin, magnesium aluminum silicates, e.g. B. talc, and boron nitride, optionally modified starches and starch derivatives, cellulose powders, lactoglobulin derivatives, polymer powders made of polyolefins, polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyamides, polyesters, polystyrenes, polyacrylates, (meth) acrylate or (meth) acrylate-vinylidene copoly- mers, which can be cross-linked, Teflon or silicones, as well as mixtures of the substances mentioned.

Polymer powders based on a polymethacrylate copolymer are e.g. B. available as a commercial product Polytrap ^® 6603 (Dow Corning). Other polymer powders, e.g. B. based on polyamides, are available under the name Orgasol ^® 1002 (polyamide-6) and Orgasol ^® 2002 (polyamide-12) from Elf Atochem. Other polymer powders which are suitable for the purpose according to the invention are e.g. B. polymethacrylates (Micropearl ^® M from SEPPIC or Plastic Powder A from NIKKOL), styrene-divinylbenzene copolymers (Plastic Powder FP from NIKKOL), polyethylene and polypropylene powder (ACCUREL ^® EP 400 from AKZO) or silicone polymers (silicone powder X2-1605 from Dow Corning). Are preferably used talc, silica, silica gel, sodium C ₈ -ι ₆ -lsoalkyl- succinyllactoglobulinsulfonat from Brooks Industries available as a commercial product Biopol ^® OE, modified starch derivatives of type DRY FLO ^® of National Starch and Chemical Company, Orgasol ^® and Polytrap ^® 6603. Talc is particularly preferred, Silicon dioxide, Biopol ^® OE, starch derivatives of the DRY FLO ^{® type} and the polymer powder Polytrap ^® 6603.

The abrasive components suitable for cosmetic skin peeling are selected according to the invention from ground plant parts such as almond bran or wheat bran, crystalline cellulose, hardened jojoba oil (jojoba beads), polymer beads, preferably made from polyethylene or polyamide-11, with average diameters of 90-600 μm, and from active ingredient-containing micro- or millicapsules containing petrochemical polymers (e.g. from polyamide such as nylon-11) and / or biopolymers such as gelatin, pectin, vegetable gums, alginates and carrageenan. Almond bran, wheat bran, hardened jojoba oil and polymer beads, in particular polyethylene beads, are preferably used as peeling substances. Micro or millicapsules containing active ingredients are also preferred. The commercial capsules are often referred to as aqueous polymer dispersion before, for example, the particularly preferred Millicapsules ^® Lipotec SA (INCI name: Aqua, Tocopheryl Acetate, Glycerine, carbomer, Sebacic Acid, agar, Green colourant, Alginic Acid).

The compositions according to the invention can furthermore contain both colored and colorless pigments. Some of the pigments mentioned below also serve as UV absorbers or light protection pigments. Particularly preferred color pigments are selected from the iron oxides with the color index numbers Cl 77491 (iron oxide red), Cl 77492 (iron oxide hydrate yellow) and Cl 77499 (iron oxide black), from Cl 77891 (titanium dioxide) and carbon black. Other preferred color pigments are selected from Cl 15510, Cl 15585, Cl 15850, Cl 15985, Cl 45170, Cl 45370, Cl 45380, Cl 45425, Cl 45430, Cl 73360, and Cl 75470.

According to the invention, effect pigments are to be understood as pigments which, due to their refractive properties, produce special optical effects. Effect pigments give the treated surface (skin, hair, mucous membrane) gloss or glitter effects or can optically conceal skin imperfections and wrinkles due to diffuse light scattering. Interference pigments are preferred according to the invention as a special embodiment of the effect pigments. Effect pigments which are particularly suitable according to the invention are, for example, mica particles which are coated with at least one metal oxide. In addition to mica, a layered silicate, silica gel and other Si0 ₂ modifications are also suitable as carriers. A metal oxide that is frequently used for coating is, for example, titanium dioxide, to which iron oxide can be added if desired. The reflection properties can be influenced via the size and shape (e.g. spherical, ellipsoid, flattened, even, uneven) of the pigment particles and via the thickness of the oxide coating. Also by the type and amount of added, optionally colored oxides, eg. B. iron oxide, various optical effects can be set. Other metal oxides can also form effect pigments, e.g. B. bismuth oxychloride (BiOCI) and the oxides of, for example, titanium, in particular the TiO ₂ modifications anatase and rutile, aluminum, tantalum, niobium, zirconium and hafnium. Effect pigments can also be produced with magnesium fluoride (MgF ₂ ) and calcium fluoride (fluorspar, CaF ₂ ).

The effects can be controlled both via the particle size and the particle size distribution of the pigment ensemble. Suitable particle size distributions are sufficient e.g. B. from 2 - 50 μm, 5 - 25 μm, 5 - 40 μm, 5 - 60 μm, 5 - 95 μm, 5 - 100 μm, 10 - 60 μm, 10 - 100 μm, 10 - 125 μm, 20 - 100 μm, 20 - 150 μm and <15 μm. A wider particle size distribution, e.g. B. from 20 - 150 microns, produces glittering effects, while a narrower particle size distribution of <15 microns ensures an even silky appearance. According to the invention particularly suitable commercial products come for example from the product lines Timiron ^® or Ronasphere ^® (both ex Merck KGaA).

The compositions according to the invention contain the effect pigments in amounts of 0.1-20% by weight, preferably 0.5-10 and particularly preferably 1-5% by weight, in each case based on the overall composition.

The preferred inorganic light protection pigments according to the invention are finely dispersed or colloidally dispersed metal oxides and metal salts, for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc) and barium sulfate. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm, so-called nanopigments. They can have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use particles which have an ellipsoidal shape or shape which differs from the spherical shape in some other way. The pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobicized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxide, such as. B. Titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex ^® T2000 (Merck). Silicones, and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones, are particularly suitable as hydrophobic coating agents. Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are particularly preferred.

The preferred inorganic particle substances are hydrophilic or amphiphilic. They can advantageously be surface-coated, in particular surface-treated ("coated"). Examples include titanium dioxide pigments coated with aluminum stearate (commercial product MT 100 T from Tayca), zinc oxide coated with dimethylpolysiloxane (Dimethicone), boron nitride coated with Dimethicone (Tres BN ^® UHP 1106 from Carborundum), with a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane and silica gel ( Simethicone) and aluminum oxide hydrate (alumina) coated titanium dioxide (Eusolex ^® T 2000 from Merck), titanium dioxide coated with octylsilanol or spherical polyalkylsesquioxane particles (Aerosil ^® R972 and Aerosil ^® 200V from Degussa).

The organic light protection pigments are substances which are crystalline at room temperature and are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and absorb the energy absorbed in the form of longer-wave radiation, e.g. B. heat to release again. A distinction is made between UVA filters and UVB filters. The UVA and UVB filters can be used both individually and in mixtures. The use of filter mixtures is preferred according to the invention.

The organic UV filters suitable according to the invention are selected from the derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, cinnamic acid esters, diphenyl-acrylic acid esters, benzophenone, camphor, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, o-amino-benzoic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles, 1,3,5-triazines, which are solid at room temperature. monomeric and oligomeric 4,4-diarylbutadienecarboxylic acid esters and carboxamides, ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane, benzalmalonic acid esters and any mixtures of the components mentioned. The organic UV filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Oil-soluble UV filters which are particularly preferred according to the invention are 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) - 3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione (Parsol ^® 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) -Pro-pan-1, 3-dione, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene ) -D, L-camphor, 2- ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 4 Propyl methoxy cinnamate, isopentyl 4-methoxy cinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenyl cinnamate

(Octocrylene), salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 4-isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester (3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 4-methoxybenzmalonic acid di-2-ethylhexyl ester, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine (Octyl Triazone) and Dioctyl Butamido Triazone (Uvasorb ^® HEB) as well as any mixtures of the components mentioned. Preferred water-soluble UV filters are 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts, sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5 -sulfonic acid and its salts, sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene-camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) sulfonic acid and their salts.

The compositions according to the invention contain the inorganic and organic light protection pigments in amounts of 0.1-30% by weight, preferably 1-20% by weight and particularly preferably 2-15% by weight, in each case based on the overall composition.

In addition to the crosslinked copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid, the compositions according to the invention can contain a further polymer which is selected from partially or completely neutralized, optionally crosslinked polymers from at least one of the monomers acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid and 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid, the neutral comonomers selected from acrylamide and, if desired, hydroxylated Cx - C ₃₀ -Alkyl esters of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid and maleic acid, can contain to achieve a synergistic thickening performance.

Among the polymers contained in the compositions according to the invention from at least one of the monomers acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid and 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1- Propanesulfonic acid are preferred anionic homopolymers and copolymers of uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids which are partially or completely neutralized. Particularly preferred anionic homopolymers and copolymers are crosslinked polyacrylic acids which are partially or completely neutralized. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene can be preferred crosslinking agents. Such polymers are, for example, the commercial products of the Carbopol ^® series, such as Carbopol ^® 934, 940, 941, Carbopol ^® Ultrez 10, Carbopol ^® ETD 2001 and 2050 as well as the products Tego Carbomer 140 and 141 and Synthalen ^® L.

In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the second anionic polymer contains at least one neutral comonomer selected from acrylic amide and, if desired, the hydroxylated C 1 -C ₃₀ -alkyl esters of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid and maleic acid.

A particularly preferred anionic copolymer contains 80-98% of an unsaturated, optionally substituted C ₃ as monomer. _6- carboxylic acid or its anhydride and 2 - 20% optionally substituted acrylic acid esters of saturated C ₁₀ . ₃ o-carboxylic acids, where the copolymer can be crosslinked with the aforementioned crosslinking agents. Corresponding commercial products are, for example, Pemulen ^® and the Carbopol ^® types 954, 980, 1342 and ETD 2020 (ex BF Goodrich). Other particularly preferred polymers are partially or completely neutralized, crosslinked copolymers of 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propane sulfonic acid (AMPS) and hydroxyethyl acrylate. In an extremely preferred embodiment of the invention, these copolymers are used in the form of an inverse latex, commercially e.g. B. available under the trade name Simulgel ^® NS from Seppic. Also particularly preferred are partially or completely neutralized, crosslinked copolymers of 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid (AMPS) and acrylamide. In an extremely preferred embodiment of the invention, these copolymers are used in the form of an inverse latex, which, for. B. is available under the trade name Simulgel ^® 600 from Seppic.

Also particularly preferred are partially or completely neutralized, crosslinked copolymers of 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid (AMPS) and acrylic acid. In an extremely preferred Embodiment of the invention, these copolymers are used in the form of an inverse latex, the z. B. is available under the trade name Simulgel ^® EG from Seppic.

All of the aforementioned, preferably used inverse polymer latices have in common that they contain at least one oil, selected from white mineral oils, squalane and hydrogenated polyisobutene, and at least one oil-in-water emulsifier, selected from the ethylene oxide adducts of sorbitan oleate, castor oil, if desired is cured, contain sorbitan laurate and lauryl alcohol and have a polymer content of 30-90% by weight, preferably 50-80% by weight and particularly preferably 60-75% by weight, in each case based on the total latex.

The polymer different from the obligatory crosslinked copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propane sulfonic acid is used according to the invention in amounts of 0.1-5% by weight, preferably 0, 2-3% by weight and particularly preferably 0.3-2.5% by weight, based on the total cosmetic composition.

For the purposes of the present invention, all polyelectrolyte monomers which are functionalized with a weak or strong acid group are partially or completely neutralized as sodium, potassium, ammonium, ethanolamine or amino acid salt.

The present invention further relates to the use of a cosmetic composition comprising a) at least one crosslinked copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid, which is partially or completely neutralized , and b) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, selected from i) nonionic, anionic and ampholytic emulsifiers, selected from linear C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols, linear and branched C ₆ -C ₃ o-fatty acids, if desired with functional groups in the alkyl chain and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts, esters of optionally alkylated sugars with C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty acids, C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides, partial esters of propylene glycol , Glycerin and sorbitan with C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty acids, polyglycerols of the formula HO-CHz-CHOH-C ^ tO-CHa-CHOH-CHJn-O-CHz-CHOH-CH ₂ OH with n = 0 - 8 and their esters with linear and branched C ₈ -C ₂ fatty acids, which can carry functional groups in the alkyl chain, sterols, phospholipids, the esterification products of lactic acid or glycolic acid with linear or branched C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty acids, alkyl and alkenyl phosphates of the general formula (I),

O

R ¹ - (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n - O - P - OR ² (I)

OR ³

in which R ^{1 is} a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ² and R ³ independently of one another are a hydrogen atom, X or a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) nR ¹ , n numbers from 0 to 10 and X represents an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation or a cation NR R ⁵ R ⁶ R ⁷ , where R ⁴ to R ⁷ independently of one another represent a Ci - C - hydrocarbon radical, acylglutamates of the formula

(II)

XOOC-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH-COOX

I _Λ ÖD

HN-COR ¹

in which R ¹ CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and X is hydrogen, an alkali metal and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium Ion stands, esters of a hydroxy-substituted di- or tricarboxylic acid of the formula (III),

X

I

HO - C - COOR ¹ (III)

I

Y - CH - COOR ²

in which X = H or a -CH ₂ COOR group, Y = H or -OH is, provided that Y = H when X = -CH ₂ COOR, R, R ¹ and R ^{2 are} independent of each other is a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium organic base or a radical Z which derives from a polyhydroxylated organic compound which is selected from the group of etherified (C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) -alkyl polysaccharides with 1 up to 6 monomeric saccharide units and / or the etherified aliphatic (C ₆ -C ₁₆ ) hydroxyalkyl polyol with 2 to 16 hydroxyl radicals with the proviso that at least one of the groups R, R ¹ or R ^{2 is} a Z radical, esters of the sulfosuccinic acid salt of the general formula (IV),

H ₂ C - COOR ¹

I (IV)

X ⁺ O ₃ S - CH - COOR ²

in which R ¹ and R ² independently of one another denote a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium organic base or a radical Z which comes from a polyhydroxylated organic compound which belongs to the group of etherified (C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) -alkyl polysaccharides with 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units and / or the etherified aliphatic (C ₆ -C ₁₆ ) -hydroxyalkyl polyols with 2 to 16 hydroxyl radicals is selected, provided that at least one of the groups R ¹ or R ^{2 is} a Z radical and X ^{+ is} an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group or the cation of an ammonium organic base, monosulfonic acid and dialkyl sulfosuccinates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and monoalkyl polyoxyethyl sulfosuccinic acid with 8 to 24 carbon atoms Atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 ethoxy groups, esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols, the addition products of average 2-10 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide on fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group with 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 10, acyl sarcosinates with a linear or branched acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds, acyl taurates with a linear or branched acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds, acyl isethionates with a linear or branched acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds, and the alkylene oxide adducts of the emulsifiers mentioned with an average of up to 10 alkylene oxide units in the molecule, ii) Oils and fats, selected from triglycerides of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C ₈ . ₃₀ fatty acids, the benzoic säureestem of linear or branched C _8-2 alkanols, dialkyl ethers with a total of 12 to 36 carbon atoms, paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils, synthetic hydrocarbons and alicyclic hydrocarbons, branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 6-30 carbon atoms, Hydroxycarbonsäurealkylestern, Dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C ₂ -C ₁₀ alkanols, diol esters, symmetric see, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, the esters of dimers of unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids (dimer fatty acids) with monovalent linear, branched or cyclic C ₂ -C ₈ alkanols or with polyvalent linear or branched C ₂ -C ₆ -alkanols, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, micro waxes, ceresin and mixtures of these oil and fat components, iii) solid inorganic and organic particles, which can be surface-modified, and / or iv) partially or completely neutralized, optionally crosslinked, polymers from at least one of the monomers Acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid and 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propane sulfonic acid, the neutral comonomers selected from acrylamide and the optionally hydroxylated Ci - C ₃₀ alkyl esters from Acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid and maleic acid can contain, in a suitable cosmetic carrier, for non-therapeutic eutical, cosmetic treatment and / or minimization of skin folds and wrinkles, their use for the nourishing, deforming, coloring or bleaching treatment of the hair as well as their use for the deodorant and / or antiperspirant treatment of the skin, especially the armpits.

The inventive compositions may optionally further fat substances such as Esteröle, that is, esters of C ₆ - ₃ o-fatty acids with C ₂ - ₃ o-fatty alcohols, silicone compounds selected from decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, Dodecamethyl- cyclohexasiloxane and silicone polymers which can optionally be crosslinked, e.g. , B. polydialkylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes containing amine and / or hydroxyl groups, including in particular silicone elastomers. Silicone elastomers are obtainable by crosslinking an organopolysiloxane containing at least 2 C ₂ -C ₁₀ alkenyl groups with terminal double bonds in each molecule with an organopolysiloxane that has at least 2 silicone-bonded hydrogen atoms in each molecule. The organopolysiloxane with at least 2 C 1 -C 4 -alkenyl groups with a terminal double bond in the molecule is selected from methylvinylsiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers with endethyl groupsoxane-silyloxy-copolymers with dimethyloxoxane-silylyl copolymers with dimethyloxoxane-silyloxy-copolymers Methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with

Dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy end groups, methyl (3,3,3-trifluo- ropropyl) polysiloxanes with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and dimethylsiloxane-methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) siloxane copolymers with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups. The crosslinking organopolysiloxane with at least two silicone-bonded hydrogen atoms is selected from methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes with trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane

Copolymers with trimethylsiloxy end groups and cyclic dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogen-siloxane copolymers.

The compositions according to the invention can contain both non-emulsifying and emulsifying silicone elastomers and mixtures thereof.

Suitable non-emulsifying silicone elastomers are commercially available, for example from Dow Corning the products DC 9040, DC 9041 or DC 9509, from General Electric, e.g. B. the commercial product SFE 839, from Shin-Etsu the commercial products KSG-15, KSG-16 or KSG-18 and from Grant Industries the products from the Gransil ^® series, such as. B. Gransil RPS ^® gel INCI name Cyclopentasiloxane and Polysilicone-11 or Gransil GCM-4 ^®, INCI name Polysilicone-cyclotetrasiloxane and eleventh

Suitable emulsifying silicone elastomers contain polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups as functional groups on the polysiloxane skeleton. These groups can be arranged terminally and / or as side groups to the polysiloxane chain. Suitable emulsifying silicone elastomers are commercially available, for example the products KSG-21, KSG-31, KSG-31X, KSG-32 from Shin-Etsu or the commercial product DC-9011 from Dow Corning. The content of non-emulsifying and / or emulsifying silicone elastomer in the compositions according to the invention is 0.1-40% by weight, preferably 0.5-20% by weight and particularly preferably 1-10% by weight, based in each case on the entire cosmetic composition. The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may further contain at least one protein hydrolyzate or its derivative. According to the invention, both vegetable and animal protein hydrolyzates can be used. Animal protein hydrolyzates are e.g. B. elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolyzates, which may also be in the form of salts. Vegetable protein hydrolyzates, e.g. B. soybean, wheat, almond, pea, Potato and rice protein hydrolyzates. Corresponding commercial products are e.g. B. DiaMin ^® (Diamalt), Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and Crotein ^® (Croda). Although the use of the additional protein hydrolysates as such is preferred, amino acid mixtures or individual amino acids, such as arginine, lysine, histidine or pyroglutamic acid, which have otherwise been obtained, can optionally be used in their place. It is also possible to use derivatives of protein hydrolyzates, e.g. B. in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Corresponding commercial products are e.g. B. Lamepon ^® (Cognis), Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^® or Crotein ^® (Croda).

Furthermore, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention can contain at least one mono-, oligo- or polysaccharide. Suitable monosaccharides according to the invention are e.g. B. glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, old rose, mannose, gulose, idose and talose as well as the deoxy sugar fucose and rhamnose. Glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and fucose are preferred; Glucose is particularly preferred.

Oligosaccharides suitable according to the invention are composed of two to ten monosaccharide units, eg. B. sucrose, lactose or trehalose. A particularly preferred oligosaccharide is sucrose. The use of honey, which predominantly contains glucose and sucrose, is also particularly preferred. Furthermore, the compositions according to the invention can contain polysaccharides with more than ten monosaccharide units. Preferred polysaccharides are the starches composed of α-D-glucose units and starch breakdown products such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins. Chemically and / or thermally modified starches, eg. B. hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, dihydroxypropyl distarch phosphate or the commercial products Dry Flo ^® . Dextrans and their derivatives, e.g. B. dextran sulfate. Also preferred are nonionic cellulose derivatives, such as methyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose or hydroxyethyl cellulose, and cationic cellulose derivatives, e.g. B. the commercial products Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^® , and preferably Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat ^® L 200 and Polymer JR ^® 400 (Polyquatemium-10) and Polyquaternium-24. Further preferred examples are polysaccharides with fucose and / or galactose and / or galacturonic acid units, e.g. B. the commercial product Fucogel ^® . In the compositions according to the invention, the mono-, oligo- or polysaccharides or their derivatives are present in amounts of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 0.5-5 % By weight and particularly preferably 1.0-3% by weight, based in each case on the entire composition.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can furthermore contain at least one α-hydroxycarboxylic acid or α-ketocarboxylic acid or its ester, lactone or salt form. Suitable α-hydroxycarboxylic acids or α-ketocarboxylic acids are selected from lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-

Hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyocta-decanoic acid, mandelic acid, 4-hydroxymandelic acid, malic acid, erythraric acid, threaric acid, glucaric acid, manic acid, manic acid, glucaric acid, manic acid, manic acid, glucaric acid, 2-hydroxy-2-methyl succinic acid, gluconic acid, pyruvic acid, glucuronic acid and galacturonic acid. The esters of the acids mentioned are selected from the methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, amyl, pentyl, hexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl and hexadecyl esters. The α-hydroxycarboxylic acids or α-ketocarboxylic acids or their derivatives are contained in amounts of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 0.5-5% by weight, based in each case on the total composition.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention are advantageously in the form of a liquid or solid oil-in-water emulsion, water-in-oil emulsion, multiple emulsion, microemulsion, PIT emulsion or Pickering emulsion, a hydrogel, a lipogel , a single or multi-phase solution, a foam, a powder or a mixture with at least one polymer suitable as a medical adhesive. The agents can also be presented in an anhydrous form, such as an oil or a balm. The carrier can be a vegetable or animal oil, a mineral oil, a synthetic oil or a mixture of such oils. In a particular embodiment of the agents according to the invention, the agents are in the form of a microemulsion. In the context of the invention, microemulsions are understood to mean not only the thermodynamically stable microemulsions but also the so-called “PIT” emulsions. These emulsions are systems with the 3 components water, oil and emulsifier, which are available as an oil-in-water emulsion at room temperature. When these systems are warmed up, microemulsions form in a certain temperature range (referred to as phase inversion temperature or "PIT"), which convert to water-in-oil emulsions when heated further. Upon subsequent cooling, O / W emulsions are formed again, but which are also present at room temperature as microemulsions or as very fine-particle emulsions with an average particle diameter below 400 nm and in particular from about 100-300 nm. According to the invention, those micro- or "PIT" emulsions can be preferred which have an average particle diameter of approximately 200 nm.

Of course, the compositions according to the invention, depending on the application, for. B. as a cleaning agent, optionally also formulate with emulsifiers, dispersants or foaming surfactants which have an average of more than 10 alkylene oxide groups per molecule. Suitable emulsifiers are, for example, adducts of 11 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and, if appropriate, 0-5 mol of propylene oxide with linear Cs-C ₂ fatty alcohols, with C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids and with C ₈ -C ₁₅ alkylphenols, C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of 11-30 moles of ethylene oxide with C ₃ -C ₆ polyols, especially with glycerol, adducts of 11-30 moles of ethylene oxide with methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides, fatty acid glucamides and C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides, preference being given to degrees of oligomerization of 1.1 to 5, in particular 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as the sugar component, addition products of 11 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide onto castor oil and hardened castor oil.

The compositions according to the invention preferably contain the optional emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1 to 25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total composition.

The agents according to the invention can contain further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, for example vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B (especially panthenol), C, E and F, allantoin, bisabolol and antioxidants. In the embodiment according to the invention as antiperspirant, antiperspirant active ingredients can be contained. Suitable antiperspirant active ingredients according to the invention are water-soluble astringent or protein-coagulating metallic salts, in particular inorganic and organic salts of aluminum, zirconium, zinc and titanium, and any mixtures of these salts. The liquid active substance preparations preferably contain an astringent aluminum salt, in particular aluminum chlorohydrate, and / or an aluminum-zirconium compound. The antiperspirant active ingredient in the compositions according to the invention is in an amount of 0.01-40% by weight, preferably 2-30% by weight and in particular 5-25% by weight, based on the amount of the active substance in the entire composition , contain. In the embodiment according to the invention as deodorant, deodorant active ingredients can be contained. Suitable as deodorant active ingredients according to the invention are fragrances, antimicrobial, antibacterial or germ-inhibiting substances, enzyme-inhibiting substances, antioxidants and odor adsorbents. Suitable antimicrobial, antibacterial or germ-inhibiting substances are in particular C ₁ -C ₄ -alkanols, C ₂ -C ₄ -alkanediols, organohalogen compounds and halides, quaternary ammonium compounds, a number of plant extracts and zinc compounds.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one water-soluble polyol, selected from water-soluble diols, triols and higher-quality alcohols and polyethylene glycols. Among the diols are C ₂ -C ₁₂ diols, in particular 1, 2-propylene glycol, butylene glycols such as. B. 1, 2-butylene glycol, 1, 3-butylene glycol and 1, 4-butylene glycol, pentanediols, e.g. B. 1, 2-pentanediol, and hexanediols, e.g. B. 1,6-hexanediol. Glycerol and technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10, such as technical diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight or triglycerol, furthermore 1, 2,6-hexanetriol and polyethylene glycols (PEG) are also particularly preferred. with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons, for example PEG-400, PEG-600 or PEG-1000. The compositions according to the invention contain the water-soluble polyol in amounts of 1-50% by weight, preferably 1-15% by weight and particularly preferably 1-5% by weight, in each case based on the overall composition.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention without restricting it thereto.

Examples

Example 1: Nourishing light day cream with light protection

Example 2) O / W skin cream for wrinkle treatment

Example 3) Nourishing hair styling gel with a gloss effect

Example 4: Cream Formulation (Figures in% by Weight)

Montanov ^® 202 3.00

Isopropyl stearate 3.00

Myritol ^® 331 1.00

Performalene ^® 400 1.00

Cegesoft ^® C 24 3.00

Lanette ^® 22 1.00

Cutina ^® MDV 2.00

Tocopheryl acetate 0.50

Controx ^® KS 0.25

Parsol ^® 1789 1, 00

Eusolex ^® 6300 2.00

Uvinul ^® T 150 1.25

Baysilon ^® M350 0.50

Aristoflex ^® AVC 0.40

1, 6 - hexanediol 6.00

Glycerin 5.00

1, 2-propylene glycol 5.00

DSH-CN 2.00

NaOH 10% pH 4.8-5.2

Dry Flo Plus 1.00

Ederline L 3.00

Water demin. ad 100

Example 5 Cream Formulation (Figures in% by Weight) Lipoid S 75-3 1, 50

Baysilon ^® M 350 1.00

Cetiol ^® J 600 DEO 4.00 Cetiol ^® SB 45 3.00

Stenol ^® 1618 cut 0.50

Cutina ^® MD-V 1.00

Floraesters 70 1.50 Controx ^® KS 0.20

Almond oil 2.00 p-hydroxybenzoic acid propyl ester 0.20

Aristoflex ^® AVC 0.40

Talc Pharma G 1.00

Glycerin 3.00

Dipropylene glycol 6.00 p-hydroxybenzoic acid methyl ester 0.20

Dry Flo PLUS 1.00

Retinyl palmitate 0.10

DSH-CN 2.00

Ederline L 3.00

NaOH 10% 1.50

Water ad 100

Example 6 Cleansing Milk (Figures in% by Weight)

Aristoflex ^® AVC 0.40

Benecel 0.30

Paraffin oil 20.00

Stenol ^® 1618 cut 2.00

Hostaphat KW 340 D 3.00

Eumulgin B1 1, 50

Tocopheryl acetate 0.50 p-hydroxybenzoic acid propyl ester 0.20

Glycerin 5.00

Hexanediol 3.00 p-hydroxybenzoic acid methyl ester 0.20

Glucono-Δ-lactone 2.00

Phenoxyethanol 0.40

Trilon M 0.10

Water ad 100

14. Soap-containing deodorant stick (figures in% by weight)

15. Deodorant - pump spray

16. After shave cream

17. Sprayable hair treatment, leave-on

18. Leave-on hair treatment

19. Hair conditioner

20. Hair tip fluid

21. Facial lotions

EO-PO-EO block polymer (EO = 40% by weight), OHZ = 39.1 ⁵⁶ Trideceth 9 and PEG40 hydrogenated castor oil

57 Solution of chitosan (approx. 1% by weight) in a 0.4% aqueous glycolic acid solution

22. Hair rinse

23. Pretreatment sprav

24. Foam setting agent

5. Cold wave fixation

26. Cream hair color

27. Developer dispersion for cream hair color from example 26:

The coloring cream had a pH of 10.0. It caused an intense red tint of the hair.

28th cream permanent wave

Well cream

List of ingredients used

Claims

claims:

1. Cosmetic composition containing

a) at least one crosslinked copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid, which is partially or completely neutralized, and b) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, selected from: i ) nonionic, anionic and ampholytic emulsifiers, selected from:

linear C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols, linear and branched C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty acids, if desired with functional groups in the alkyl chain, and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts,

Esters of optionally alkylated sugars with C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty acids,

C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides,

Partial esters of propylene glycol, glycerol and sorbitan with C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty acids,

- Polyglycerols of the formula HOCH ₂ -CHOH-CH ₂ [-O-CH ₂ -CHOH-CH ₂ ] _n - O-CH ₂ -CHOH-CH ₂ OH with n = 0 - 8 and their esters with linear and branched C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty acids which can carry functional groups in the alkyl chain,

- sterols, phospholipids,

the esterification products of lactic acid or glycolic acid with linear or branched C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty acids,

Alkyl and alkenyl phosphates of the general formula (I),

O

R ¹ - (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n - O - P - OR

I (I)

OR in which R ^{1 is} a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ² and R ³ independently of one another are hydrogen, X or a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R \ n numbers from 0 to 10 and X represents an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation or a cation NR ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ R ⁷ , where R ⁴ to R ⁷ independently of one another represent ad - C ₄ - hydrocarbon radical, acylglutamates of the formula (II),

XOOC-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH-COOX

(II) HN-COR ¹

in which R ¹ CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and X is hydrogen, an alkali metal and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium Ion stands

Esters of a hydroxy-substituted di- or tricarboxylic acid of the formula (III),

X

I

HO - C - COOR ¹ (III)

Y _ CH - COOR ²

in which X = H or a -CH ₂ COOR group, Y = H or -OH is, provided that Y = H when X = -CH ₂ COOR, R, R ¹ and R ^{2 are} independent of each other is a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium organic base or a radical Z which derives from a polyhydroxylated organic compound which is selected from the group of etherified (C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) -alkylpolysaccharides with 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units and / or the etherified aliphatic (C ₆ -C ₁₆ ) hydroxyalkyl polyols having 2 to 16 hydroxyl radicals is selected, provided that at least one of the Groups R, R ¹ or R ^{2 is} a radical Z,

Esters of the sulfosuccinic acid salt of the general formula (IV),

H ₂ C - COOR ¹

I (IV)

X ⁺ O ₃ S - CH - COOR ²

in which R ¹ and R ² independently of one another denote a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium organic base or a radical Z which comes from a polyhydroxylated organic compound which belongs to the group of etherified (C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) -alkyl polysaccharides with 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units and / or the etherified aliphatic (C ₆ -C ₁₆ ) -hydroxyalkyl polyols with 2 to 16 hydroxyl radicals is selected, provided that at least one of the groups R ¹ or R ² is a radical Z and X ⁺ denotes an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group or the cation of an ammonium organic base,

Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 ethoxy groups, esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols, the addition products of an average of 2-10 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide on fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms,

Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group with 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 10, and their alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium salts, acyl sarcosinates with a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds, and their alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium salts, Acyl taurates with a linear or branched acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds, and their alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium salts,

Acyl isethionates with a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0.1

2 or 3 double bonds, as well as their alkali, alkaline earth metal or ammonium salts,

- and the alkylene oxide adducts of the emulsifiers mentioned with an average of up to 10 alkylene oxide units in the molecule, ii) oils and fats, selected from triglycerides of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C ₈ . ₃ o-fatty acids, the benzoic acid esters of linear or branched C ₈ . ₂₂ -alkanols, dialkyl ethers with a total of 12 to 36 carbon atoms, paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils, synthetic hydrocarbons and alicyclic hydrocarbons, branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols with 6 - 30 carbon atoms, hydroxycarboxylic acid alkyl esters, dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C ₂ -C ₁₀ alkanols,

Diolestem, symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, the esters of dimers of unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids (dimer fatty acids) with monovalent linear, branched or cyclic C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkanols or with polyvalent linear or branched C ₂ -C ₆ -alkanols, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, micro waxes, ceresin and mixtures of these oil and fat components, iii) solid inorganic and organic particles, which can be surface-modified, and / or iv) partially or completely neutralized, optionally crosslinked polymers of at least one of the monomers acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid and 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid, the neutral comonomers selected from acrylamide and, if desired, hydroxylated C 1 -C ₃₀ -alkyl Can contain esters of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid and maleic acid,

in a suitable cosmetic carrier. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsifiers are selected from i) cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and

Behenyl alcohol, ii) esters of optionally alkylated monosaccharides and disaccharides with C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty acids, iii) alkyl mono- and oligoglucosides of the general formula RO- (Z) _x , where

R stands for a C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl group and Z for a glucose residue and x =

1.1 - 2.0, iv) glycerol partial esters and sorbitan partial esters of C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty acids, v) lecithin, vi) esterification products of lactic acid of the formula (VI),

where R ^{1 is} a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 5-21 carbon atoms and n = 1 or 2, and their Na, K, NH ₄ ⁺ , Ca, Mg and Zn salts, vii) Alkyl and alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula (I),

O

R ¹ - (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n - O - P - OR ² (I)

OR ³

in which R ^{1 is} a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ² and R ³ independently of one another are a hydrogen atom, X or a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ¹ , n numbers from 2-5 and X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation or a cation NR ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ R ⁷ , with R ⁴ to R ⁷ independently of one another represent a Ci - C hydrocarbon radical.

3. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oils and fats are selected from i) triglycerides of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C ₈ - _3, branched o-fatty acids ii) Benzoesäureestem of linear or C ₈ . ₂₂ alkanols and iii) dialkyl ethers having 12-24 carbon atoms.

4. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the solid inorganic and organic particles, which can be surface-modified, are selected from inert, finely divided adsorbents, abrasive components, coloring, effect and light protection pigments.

5. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the partially or completely neutralized, optionally crosslinked polymers of at least one of the monomers acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid and maleic acid, the neutral monomers selected from acrylamide and the Cι - C ₃₀ - Alkyl esters of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid and maleic acid can be selected from i) homopolymers and copolymers of crosslinked polyacrylic acids which are partially or completely neutralized, ii) crosslinked copolymers with 80-98% of an unsaturated, desired, if substituted C ₃ , _6- carboxylic acid or its anhydride and 2 - 20% optionally substituted acrylic acid esters of saturated C ₁₀ - ₃₀ - carboxylic acids, iii) crosslinked copolymers of 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid and Hydroxyethyl acrylate, crosslinked copolymers of 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid and acrylamide and crosslinked copolymers of 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] - 1-propane sulfonic acid and acrylic acid, which are present in partially or completely neutralized form.

6. Use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims for non-therapeutic, cosmetic treatment and / or minimization of skin wrinkles and wrinkles.

7. Use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 for the nourishing, deforming, coloring or bleaching treatment of the hair.

8. Use of a cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 5 for deodorant and / or antiperspirant treatment of the skin, in particular the armpits.