WO1995013413A1 - Etoffe - Google Patents

Etoffe Download PDF

Info

Publication number
WO1995013413A1
WO1995013413A1 PCT/GB1994/002450 GB9402450W WO9513413A1 WO 1995013413 A1 WO1995013413 A1 WO 1995013413A1 GB 9402450 W GB9402450 W GB 9402450W WO 9513413 A1 WO9513413 A1 WO 9513413A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
fabric
filaments
filament
yarns
yarn
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/GB1994/002450
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Nicholas Brown
Original Assignee
Nicholas Brown
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Nicholas Brown filed Critical Nicholas Brown
Priority to AU81118/94A priority Critical patent/AU8111894A/en
Publication of WO1995013413A1 publication Critical patent/WO1995013413A1/fr

Links

Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • D04B21/16—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating synthetic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/02—Moisture-responsive characteristics

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a textile fabric, in particular to a textile fabric having moisture transmissive properties, especially suitable for the manufacture of clothing for sport or outdoor wear.
  • the present invention provides a fabric having three or more, preferably three, interlocking layers of different yarns, each layer using yarns having filaments of greater diameter than the preceding layer, so that the fabric has a gradient of filament or fibre packing density across the layers.
  • Such a fabric has water transmissive properties.
  • the fabric may be knitted from three or more yarns to provide the layered structure.
  • the fabric is produced by warp knitting, for example by tricot or raschel warp knitting.
  • the present invention provides a warp knitted fabric knitted using three or more, preferably three, bars, each bar using a yarn having filaments or fibres of greater diameter than the yarn on the preceding bar, so that the fabric has a layered structure exhibiting a gradient of filament or fibre packing density.
  • the layers are integrated into a unitary body by the knitting process, and so the desired gradient is exhibited by taking average values across the fabric.
  • the fabric In its natural state, the fabric has hydrophilic properties, with water being transmitted to the most densely packed side of the fabric, where on average the filaments are finer.
  • the least densely packed layer In manufacturing clothing using such a fabric, the least densely packed layer would normally be next to, or facing towards, the skin, so as to transport perspiration from the user's body to the outside of the clothing.
  • the fabrics of the invention may be treated with a water repellent composition to provide a fabric whose water transmissive properties are reversed from that of the untreated fabric.
  • the fabric can be treated with a waterproofing composition such as disclosed in US Patent No. 51 69891 .
  • the coating of the filaments of the yarns with such a composition reverses the water transmission properties.
  • An article of clothing so coated would thus be worn with the most densely packed layer closest the wearer's skin, so that it sheds water.
  • the fabric As the fabric is formed by warp knitting, the fabric retains an open structure and as such remains “breathable", whether it is being used in hydrophilic mode - transmitting perspiration away from the "skin” side, or hydrophobic mode - shedding water from the "outdoor” side.
  • the transmission properties are due to filament sizes not filament type (polymer, porosity, etc) and so the fabric can be produced from yarns of the same overall composition but using different filament sizes.
  • Either face of the fabric may be brushed or sueded to produce a desired feel or texture to the fabric without destroying the water transmissive properties.
  • a textile fabric in accordance with the preferred embodiment of the present invention has a filament-packing density gradient structure formed by 3-bar warp knitting the fabric from three yarns with filaments of different diameters.
  • the smallest diameter filaments, placed in one outer layer can be tightly packed. Filaments of slightly greater diameter, placed in the middle layer, cannot be packed so tightly, so are more highly spaced.
  • the largest diameter filaments, placed in the opposite outer layer become least densely packed.
  • the warp knit fabric is characterised by having a gradient in the packing density of the constituent filaments, resulting from the fact that the denier of the filaments on average progressively increases from one face of the fabric to the other.
  • a three bar knitting machine is operated with a different denier yarn on each bar, and then instituting a bar movement such that the finest filament overlaps appear on the technical face, and the largest filament underiaps appear on the technical back.
  • the yarns from the back, middle and front guide bars must lie in ascending order as they wrap around the needle to form the overlap.
  • An alternative procedure is to overfeed the back bar so that it protrudes through the surface of the technical back as a pile. Then the technical back of the fabric is raised to pull the course filament yarn into the raised face.
  • the yarns used may have a spread of filament dimensions, ranging from micro to greater than 1 denier.
  • the smallest diameter filaments are in 50/70 yarns (where the first number refers to the weight in grams of 1 0,000m of filament and the second number refers to the number of individual filaments making up the yarn).
  • the increasingly larger diameter filaments or fibres are typically 60/40 and 50/20 yarns respectively.
  • a breathable waterproof fabric has been a composite of several layers, each layer using yarns of different polymers each having different properties.
  • a fabric in accordance with the present invention can be formed from many types of fibres or filaments. Especially suitable are polyesters, but other synthetic fibres commonly used in the clothing industry, such as polyamides or rayons, may also be used.
  • the form of the fibres or filaments may be varied to suit particular applications, for example air-textured or trilobal, or plain. Natural fibres, such as wool, silk or cotton may also be used.
  • the fibres or filaments can be made up into multi-filament yarns or staple yarns, which can be used individually or in combination.
  • Each Example is based on the use of a 28 needle per inch tricot warp knitting machine with 3 bars, set up so that the raised face is technical back and the fine filament face is technical face.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne une étoffe présentant une structure à gradient de densité de tassement de filaments, cette structure étant formée par un tricotage chaîne à trois barres à partir de trois fils dont les filaments présentent des diamètres différents. Les filaments dotés du plus petit diamètre, placés sur une couche externe, ont été filés de manière très serrée. Les filaments dotés d'un diamètre légèrement supérieur, placés dans la couche intermédiaire, ont été filés de manière moins serrée. Les filaments dotés du plus gros diamètre, placés sur une couche externe opposée à l'autre couche externe, ont été filés de manière encore moins serrée. Ainsi, l'étoffe à tricotage chaîne présente un gradient de densité des filaments la constituant, ceci résultant du fait que le denier des filaments augmente en moyenne de manière progressive d'un côté de l'étoffe à l'autre. Cette étoffe est dotée de propriétés hydrophiles, l'eau étant absorbée vers le côté de l'étoffe où les filaments sont tissés de la façon la plus dense, c'est-à-dire là où les filaments sont en moyenne plus fins. Lorsqu'on fabrique un vêtement avec une telle étoffe, on fait en sorte que la couche où les filaments sont tissés de la manière la moins serrée soit normalement proche de la peau, ou tournée vers elle, afin que la transpiration excrétée par le corps de l'utilisateur puisse être absorbée par la couche externe du vêtement.
PCT/GB1994/002450 1993-11-09 1994-11-08 Etoffe WO1995013413A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
AU81118/94A AU8111894A (en) 1993-11-09 1994-11-08 Textile fabric

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
GB9323029.0 1993-11-09
GB939323029A GB9323029D0 (en) 1993-11-09 1993-11-09 Textile fabric

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO1995013413A1 true WO1995013413A1 (fr) 1995-05-18

Family

ID=10744838

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/GB1994/002450 WO1995013413A1 (fr) 1993-11-09 1994-11-08 Etoffe

Country Status (3)

Country Link
AU (1) AU8111894A (fr)
GB (1) GB9323029D0 (fr)
WO (1) WO1995013413A1 (fr)

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2746818A1 (fr) * 1996-04-02 1997-10-03 Adidas Ag Tricot chaine double face a base de fils capillaires formant bouclette et procede de fabrication
CN103266407A (zh) * 2013-05-22 2013-08-28 东华大学 一种导湿快干弹性衬垫织物及其制备方法
CN104630982A (zh) * 2015-02-16 2015-05-20 无锡爱依特纺织有限公司 一种渐变色经编织物的生产方法
CN109402858A (zh) * 2018-12-29 2019-03-01 常熟市正方宜织造有限公司 一次成型单向导湿双针床经编面料及其制备方法

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN112726203B (zh) * 2020-12-24 2023-07-25 深圳大学 一种温度自适应控湿调温双层针织物及其制备方法

Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE2851348A1 (de) * 1977-11-30 1979-06-07 Eiser Ab Textile sitz- und liegeunterlage
JPS62199837A (ja) * 1986-02-20 1987-09-03 東洋紡績株式会社 布帛地
US4941514A (en) * 1987-02-10 1990-07-17 Tamfeld Oy Ab Multi-weft paper machine cloth with intermediate layer selected to control permeability
EP0429802A2 (fr) * 1989-11-30 1991-06-05 Guilford Mills, Inc. Article textile avec couches opposées, une absorbante et une non-absorbante, et procédé pour fabriquer celui-ci
US5169891A (en) * 1988-10-21 1992-12-08 Nicholas Brown Coating compositions comprising a blend of an ethylene vinyl acetate polymer with a fatty acid and emulsions
JPH05230770A (ja) * 1992-02-14 1993-09-07 Kuraray Co Ltd 透湿防水性布帛

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE2851348A1 (de) * 1977-11-30 1979-06-07 Eiser Ab Textile sitz- und liegeunterlage
JPS62199837A (ja) * 1986-02-20 1987-09-03 東洋紡績株式会社 布帛地
US4941514A (en) * 1987-02-10 1990-07-17 Tamfeld Oy Ab Multi-weft paper machine cloth with intermediate layer selected to control permeability
US5169891A (en) * 1988-10-21 1992-12-08 Nicholas Brown Coating compositions comprising a blend of an ethylene vinyl acetate polymer with a fatty acid and emulsions
EP0429802A2 (fr) * 1989-11-30 1991-06-05 Guilford Mills, Inc. Article textile avec couches opposées, une absorbante et une non-absorbante, et procédé pour fabriquer celui-ci
JPH05230770A (ja) * 1992-02-14 1993-09-07 Kuraray Co Ltd 透湿防水性布帛

Non-Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
DATABASE WPI Week 8741, Derwent World Patents Index; AN 87-287557 *
DATABASE WPI Week 9340, Derwent World Patents Index; AN 93-317996 *

Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2746818A1 (fr) * 1996-04-02 1997-10-03 Adidas Ag Tricot chaine double face a base de fils capillaires formant bouclette et procede de fabrication
CN103266407A (zh) * 2013-05-22 2013-08-28 东华大学 一种导湿快干弹性衬垫织物及其制备方法
CN104630982A (zh) * 2015-02-16 2015-05-20 无锡爱依特纺织有限公司 一种渐变色经编织物的生产方法
CN104630982B (zh) * 2015-02-16 2016-10-05 无锡爱依特纺织有限公司 一种渐变色经编织物的生产方法
CN109402858A (zh) * 2018-12-29 2019-03-01 常熟市正方宜织造有限公司 一次成型单向导湿双针床经编面料及其制备方法

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
GB9323029D0 (en) 1994-01-05
AU8111894A (en) 1995-05-29

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