US20210032786A1 - Free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with hidden cross stripe and method for knitting thereof - Google Patents

Free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with hidden cross stripe and method for knitting thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
US20210032786A1
US20210032786A1 US16/691,603 US201916691603A US2021032786A1 US 20210032786 A1 US20210032786 A1 US 20210032786A1 US 201916691603 A US201916691603 A US 201916691603A US 2021032786 A1 US2021032786 A1 US 2021032786A1
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Prior art keywords
fabric
elastic yarn
knitting
rack
warp
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US16/691,603
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Inventor
Changsheng Peng
Xiangjiao Xie
Chun Wah Samuel YEUNG
Mingcai Fan
Lihong Qiu
Xia Tang
Shuying Zhang
Xiaozhan Kang
Kaihong Zhou
Shilin Zhuang
Yanfang Lai
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Hutai Panyu Textile and Dyeing Co Ltd
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Hutai Panyu Textile and Dyeing Co Ltd
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Assigned to PACIFIC (PANYU) TEXTILES LTD. reassignment PACIFIC (PANYU) TEXTILES LTD. ASSIGNMENT OF ASSIGNORS INTEREST (SEE DOCUMENT FOR DETAILS). Assignors: FAN, MINGCAI, KANG, XIAOZHAN, LAI, YANFANG, PENG, CHANGSHENG, QIU, LIHONG, TANG, XIA, XIE, XIANGJIAO, YEUNG, CHUN WAH SAMUEL, ZHANG, Shuying, ZHOU, KAIHONG, ZHUANG, SHILIN
Publication of US20210032786A1 publication Critical patent/US20210032786A1/en
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • D04B21/18—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating elastic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/06—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B21/08—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • D04B21/16—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating synthetic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/20—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting articles of particular configuration
    • D04B21/202—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting articles of particular configuration warp knitted yarns
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/20—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting articles of particular configuration
    • D04B21/207—Wearing apparel or garment blanks
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/02—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/061—Load-responsive characteristics elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
    • D10B2501/02—Underwear
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
    • D10B2501/04—Outerwear; Protective garments

Definitions

  • the present invention belongs to the field of knitted fabrics and particularly relates to a free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe and a method for knitting thereof.
  • edges of a lower hem and the like of an apparel fabric generally need to be folded into two layers for stitching, or need to subjected to edge processing (hemming-stitch) of stitching with other fabrics and thread strips, but if such edge processing is performed, the broken edge will become thicker, affecting the appearance of the product, and the skin in contact with the edge will be subjected to compression friction or airtightness, and thus it is not desirable to perform edge processing during the processing of the apparel fabric.
  • free-cut fabrics are free-cut fabrics that have recently received more attention from the market, and are also called arbitrarily-cut fabrics.
  • the free-cut fabrics are each usually a four-sided elastic fabric made of a chemical fiber and spandex.
  • the woven raw materials are generally nylon fiber and low-temperature spandex.
  • the produced fabric has the advantages of no curling, no raveling and no thread dropping, can be cut freely, and has a softer and smoother hand feeling than a fabric cut traceless.
  • a structural fabric disclosed in JP-A-2004-169262 has certain requirements for an elastic yarn used, and low-temperature spandex must be used, and there are certain requirements for the setting temperature thereof, otherwise the problem of raveling is likely to occur, resulting in one fabric being divided into two.
  • CN201473695U discloses an elastic fabric, which has a doubling knitted structure and is knitted by combining at least one strand of elastic yarns and at least one strand of non-elastic yarns.
  • the non-elastic yarn is a polyester yarn or a cotton yarn
  • the elastic yarn is a spandex yarn.
  • the elastic fabric of the utility model not only incorporates the elastic yarn in the knitting method, but also combines a unique doubling knitting structure.
  • the elastic fabric has a very good elastic force, and the fabric surface has an attractive pattern. However, the edge of the fabric still needs to be subjected to edge processing.
  • objectives of the present invention are to provide a free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe and a method for knitting thereof.
  • the warp-knitted fabric can be arbitrarily cut, does not ravel easily, is free of hemming-stitch, and has a hidden cross stripe effect.
  • the first objective of the present invention is to provide a method for knitting a free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe. Only by means of a knitting structure, the knitting method provided by the present invention maintains an original cutting state without edge processing and without heating bonding processing, can prevent yarn breakage and fabric raveling more reliably. Moreover, laser cutting and heating treatment are not required, the fabric can be produced by using ordinary electric scissors, and thus the cost is greatly saved; and the structure has a hidden cross stripe effect, which will improve the competitiveness of the product to some extent. To achieve this objective, the present invention adopts the following technical solution:
  • a method for knitting a free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe which uses a first guide bar and a second guide bar of a warp knitting machine for knitting, includes:
  • the amount of let off of the non-elastic yarn is 85-120 cm/rack.
  • the amount of let off of the non-elastic yarn is 85 cm/rack, 86 cm/rack, 87 cm/rack, 88 cm/rack, 89 cm/rack, 90 cm/rack, 91 cm/rack, 92 cm/rack, 93 cm/rack , 94 cm/rack, 95 cm/rack, 96 cm/rack, 97 cm/rack, 98 cm/rack, 99 cm/rack, 100 cm/rack, 101 cm/rack, 102 cm/rack, 103 cm/rack , 104 cm/rack, 105 cm/rack, 106 cm/rack, 107 cm/rack, 108 cm/rack, 109 cm/rack, 110 cm/rack, 111 cm/rack, 112 cm/rack, 113 cm/rack , 114 cm/rack, 115 cm/rack, 116 cm/rack, 117 cm/rack, 118 cm/rack, 119 cm/rack, or 120 cm/rack.
  • the amount of let off of the elastic yarn is 45-75 cm/rack.
  • the amount of let off of the elastic yarn is 45 cm/rack, 46 cm/rack, 47 cm/rack, 48 cm/rack, 49 cm/rack, 50 cm/rack, 51 cm/rack, 52 cm/rack, 53 cm/rack , 54 cm/rack, 55 cm/rack, 56 cm/rack, 57 cm/rack, 58 cm/rack, 59 cm/rack, 60 cm/rack, 61 cm/rack, 62 cm/rack, 63 cm/rack , 64 cm/rack, 65 cm/rack, 66 cm/rack, 67 cm/rack, 68 cm/rack, 69 cm/rack, 70 cm/rack, 71 cm/rack, 72 cm/rack, 73 cm/rack , 74 cm/rack, or 75 cm/rack.
  • modes for threading of the first guide bar and the second guide bar are full-set threading.
  • the “amount of let off” as described in the present invention means the length (cm) of the yarn used for knitting 480 loop courses.
  • the elastic yarn and the non-elastic yarn must be knitted in a same-direction knitting structure mode; otherwise the formed fabric may be curled due to tension.
  • the non-elastic yarn is a chemical filament, such as a straight yarn and/or a draw textured yarn; and further, the chemical filament is a nylon filament or a polyester filament.
  • the fineness of the chemical filament is 11-85 dtex. For example, the fineness is 11 dtex, 15 dtex, 22 dtex, 33 dtex, 44 dtex, 56 dtex, 60 dtex, 66 dtex, 75 dtex, 77 dtex, 85 dtex; and preferably, the fineness of the chemical filament is 22-56 dtex. For example, the fineness is 22 dtex, 33 dtex, 44 dtex, or 56 dtex.
  • the elastic yarn is a spandex yarn. Although when the elastic yarn is thinner, it is easier to increase the density of the fabric, if the elastic yarn is too fine, the strength is weak.
  • the fineness of the elastic yarn is 22-77 dtex.
  • the fineness of the elastic yarn is 22 dtex, 33 dtex, 44 dtex, 56 dtex, 66 dtex, 75 dtex, or 77 dtex, preferably 22-56 dtex.
  • the fineness of the elastic yarn is 22 dtex, 33 dtex. , 44 dtex, or 56 dtex.
  • the second objective of the present invention is to provide the free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe prepared by the knitting method of the first objective.
  • the free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe is formed by knitting the non-elastic yarn and the elastic yarn in a same-direction knitting structure mode, and the produced warp-knitted fabric can be arbitrarily cut, does not ravel easily, is free of hemming-stitch, and has a hidden cross stripe effect.
  • the “hidden cross strip effect” according to the present invention is caused by the characteristics of the fabric structure itself, and loop courses tilted in different directions perform different reflections of light, so that cross stripes are formed on the surface of the knitted fabric, which has a certain pattern effect.
  • Arbitrary cutting When garments such as underwear and close-fitting clothes are sewn, a neckline, a lower hem and cuffs do not need to bind off, which improves the wearing comfort of the garments.
  • the present invention achieves this performance by utilizing a special knitting structure.
  • Full drawed yarn The chemical filament has drafting during the spinning process, the degree of orientation and crystallinity are relatively high, and the knitted fabric is relatively flat and smooth.
  • Draw textured yarn is also known as textured yarn.
  • the draw textured yarn is obtained by stretching and deformation processing during the spinning process, is fluffy and curly and has certain elasticity.
  • the knitted fabric has a relative cotton feel, the cloth cover texture is not clear, and the fabric is soft in hand feeling.
  • Atlas stitch is a warp knit structure in which each yarn forms loops sequentially on three or more adjacent knitting needles.
  • a braided fabric is not linear when cut, and preferably has a wave shape.
  • the third objective of the present invention is to provide a garment, wherein the garment is produced using the free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe, and at least a portion of a linear edge and/or a curved edge of the apparel fabric is composed of the free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe.
  • the garment thus produced has elasticity.
  • a dyeing and finishing process includes: refining a knitted fabric, and then dehydrating the fabric for the first time; after dehydration, executing a presetting process, and then performing dyeing treatment; drying the dyed fabric, and finally subjecting a finished product to setting, where the objective of refining is to remove impurities on the fabric, make the fabric white and soft and have good penetrating properties, and prepare for subsequent dyeing.
  • a refining device is generally a cooking device, such as a cloth cooking pot.
  • a first-time dehydration device includes a rolling dehydrator, or a vacuum dehydrator, a dryer, a centrifugal dehydrator, or the like; a presetting and setting device is a tentering setting machine; a dyeing device is a high temperature and high pressure dyeing machine, a skein dyeing machine, a sizing and dyeing combination machine, a spray dyeing device, a foam dyeing device, or the like; and a drying device is a dryer.
  • the present invention has the following beneficial effects:
  • the free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe provided by the present invention can be arbitrarily cut, does not ravel easily, is free of hemming-stitch, has a hidden cross stripe effect, has good elongation, snagging grade, hand feeling and pattern effect, and has a longitudinal elongation of 79-148%, a horizontal elongation of 100-160% and a snagging grade of 2-3.5.
  • the hand feeling grade is up to 4, and the fabric has a pattern effect.
  • two kinds of yarns (the first guide bar/the second guide bar) of the free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe uses the three-needle open warp sateen weave structure combination, and the finished fabric meets the requirements for free cutting, and can meet the requirements on various occasions;
  • the setting of guide bar full-set threading elastic yarn makes the free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe have certain elasticity, and expands the range of practical applications.
  • the structure combination makes the snagging grade of the fabric better, and the fabric further has a certain pattern effect, does not curl, can be freely cut, has good wearability, can be applied to underwear, corsets or sportswear, and has a good market prospect.
  • FIG. 1 is a schematic structural diagram of a free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe according to the present invention
  • FIG. 2 is a schematic structural diagram of a sports garment piece according to Application Example 1 of the present invention.
  • FIG. 3 is a schematic structural view of a side A of a pair of shorts according to Application Example 2 of the present invention.
  • FIG. 4 is a schematic structural view of a side B of the pair of shorts according to Application Example 2 of the present invention.
  • an adopted machine is a Karl Mayer HKS 2-3E type tricot warp knitting machine with a machine number of E40 and the basic structure thereof includes a let-off mechanism, a knitting mechanism, a guide bar traverse movement mechanism, a pulling and curling mechanism, a transmission mechanism, and the like.
  • the knitting mechanism includes a needle bed, a first guide bar (GB1), a second guide bar (GB2), and the like, and a mode for threading for GB1/GB2 full-set threading.
  • the following embodiments adopt the aforementioned machine and knitting mode.
  • the first guide bar (GB1) threads the non-elastic yarn and the non-elastic yarn is knitted in a movement mode of yarn laying digital of 1-0/1-2/2-3/2-1// by using a three-needle open warp sateen structure
  • the second guide bar (GB2) threads the elastic yarn and the elastic yarn is knitted in a movement mode of yarn laying digital of 1-0/1-2/2-3/2-1// by using a three-needle open warp sateen structure.
  • the structural diagram of the specific fabric is as shown in FIG. 1 .
  • a free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe includes a fabric body, and the fabric body is formed by knitting a non-elastic yarn and an elastic yarn in a same-direction knitting structure mode; where the non-elastic yarn forms the surface of the fabric by warp sateen weave; and the elastic yarn forms the inside of the fabric by warp sateen weave.
  • the non-elastic yarn is selected from a polyester straight yarn having a fineness of 22 dtex, and the elastic yarn is a spandex yarn having a fineness of 44 dtex.
  • a process for knitting a free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe is as follows: a non-elastic yarn passes across a guide needle of the first guide bar and is knitted in an open warp sateen loop mode through three needles (the yarn laying digital is 1-0/1-2/2-3/2-1//), and the elastic yarn passes across a guide needle of the second guide bar and is knitted in an open warp sateen loop mode in the same direction as the aforementioned non-elastic yarn through three needles (the yarn laying digital is 1-0/1-2/2-3/2-1//), to form a gray fabric of the free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe.
  • the amount of let off of the non-elastic yarn is 85 cm/rack
  • the amount of let off of the elastic yarn is 55 cm/rack
  • modes for threading of the first guide bar (GB1) and the second guide bar (GB2) are full-set threading.
  • a free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe includes a fabric body, and the fabric body is formed by knitting a non-elastic yarn and an elastic yarn in a same-direction knitting structure mode; where the non-elastic yarn forms the surface of the fabric by warp sateen weave; and the elastic yarn forms the inside of the fabric by warp sateen weave.
  • the non-elastic yarn is selected from a nylon round straight chevilled silk having a fineness of 22 dtex, and the elastic yarn is a spandex yarn having a fineness of 33 dtex.
  • a process for knitting a free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe is as follows: a non-elastic yarn passes across a guide needle of the first guide bar and is knitted in an open warp sateen loop mode through three needles (the yarn laying digital is 1-0/1-2/2-3/2-1//), and the elastic yarn passes across a guide needle of the second guide bar and is knitted in an open warp sateen loop mode in the same direction as the aforementioned non-elastic yarn through three needles (the yarn laying digital is 1-0/1-2/2-3/2-1//), to form a gray fabric of the free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe.
  • the amount of let off of the non-elastic yarn is 85 cm/rack
  • the amount of let off of the elastic yarn is 45cm/rack
  • modes for threading of the first guide bar (GB1) and the second guide bar (GB2) are full-set threading.
  • a free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe includes a fabric body, and the fabric body is formed by knitting a non-elastic yarn and an elastic yarn in a same-direction knitting structure mode; where the non-elastic yarn forms the surface of the fabric by warp sateen weave; and the elastic yarn forms the inside of the fabric by warp sateen weave.
  • the non-elastic yarn is selected from a nylon matte straight yarn having a fineness of 33 dtex, and the elastic yarn is a spandex yarn having a fineness of 44 dtex.
  • a process for knitting a free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe is as follows: a non-elastic yarn passes across a guide needle of the first guide bar and is knitted in an open warp sateen loop mode through three needles (the yarn laying digital is 1-0/1-2/2-3/2-1//), and the elastic yarn passes across a guide needle of the second guide bar and is knitted in an open warp sateen loop mode in the same direction as the aforementioned non-elastic yarn through three needles (the yarn laying digital is 1-0/1-2/2-3/2-1//), to form a gray fabric of the free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe.
  • the amount of let off of the non-elastic yarn is 90 cm/rack
  • the amount of let off of the elastic yarn is 52 cm/rack
  • modes for threading of the first guide bar (GB1) and the second guide bar (GB2) are full-set threading.
  • a free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe includes a fabric body, and the fabric body is formed by knitting a non-elastic yarn and an elastic yarn in a same-direction knitting structure mode; where the non-elastic yarn forms the surface of the fabric by warp sateen weave; and the elastic yarn forms the inside of the fabric by warp sateen weave.
  • the non-elastic yarn is selected from a nylon matte straight yarn having a fineness of 44 dtex, and the elastic yarn is a spandex yarn having a fineness of 75 dtex.
  • a process for knitting a free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe is as follows: a non-elastic yarn passes across a guide needle of the first guide bar and is knitted in an open warp sateen loop mode through three needles (the yarn laying digital is 1-0/1-2/2-3/2-1//), and the elastic yarn passes across a guide needle of the second guide bar and is knitted in an open warp sateen loop mode in the same direction as the aforementioned non-elastic yarn through three needles (the yarn laying digital is 1-0/1-2/2-3/2-1//), to form a gray fabric of the free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe.
  • the amount of let off of the non-elastic yarn is 105 cm/rack
  • the amount of let off of the elastic yarn is 75 cm/rack
  • modes for threading of the first guide bar (GB1) and the second guide bar (GB2) are full-set threading.
  • a free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe includes a fabric body, and the fabric body is formed by knitting a non-elastic yarn and an elastic yarn in a same-direction knitting structure mode; where the non-elastic yarn forms the surface of the fabric by warp sateen weave; and the elastic yarn forms the inside of the fabric by warp sateen weave.
  • the non-elastic yarn is selected from a polyester draw textured yarn having a fineness of 44 dtex, and the elastic yarn is a spandex yarn having a fineness of 75 dtex.
  • a process for knitting a free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe is as follows: a non-elastic yarn passes across a guide needle of the first guide bar and is knitted in an open warp sateen loop mode through three needles (the yarn laying digital is 1-0/1-2/2-3/2-1//), and the elastic yarn passes across a guide needle of the second guide bar and is knitted in an open warp sateen loop mode in the same direction as the aforementioned non-elastic yarn through three needles (the yarn laying digital is 1-0/1-2/2-3/2-1//), to form a gray fabric of the free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe.
  • the amount of let off of the non-elastic yarn is 110 cm/rack
  • the amount of let off of the elastic yarn is 75 cm/rack
  • modes for threading of the first guide bar (GB1) and the second guide bar (GB2) are full-set threading.
  • This comparative example differs from Embodiment 1 in that the non-elastic yarn is a nylon straight yarn having a fineness of 156 dtex, and the other knitting methodes are the same as those of Embodiment 1.
  • the warp-knitted fabric prepared by using the knitting mode is coarse and hard in hand feeling, and the elongation is also lowered.
  • This comparative example differs from Embodiment 1 in that the fineness of elastic yarn is 116 dtex, and the other knitting methodes are the same as those of Embodiment 1.
  • This comparative example differs from Embodiment 1 in that the amount of let off of the non-elastic yarn is less than that of the elastic yarn, that is, the amount of let off of the non-elastic yarn is 75 cm/rack, the amount of let off of the elastic yarn is 105 cm/rack, and the other knitting methods are the same as those of Embodiment 1.
  • the warp-knitted fabric produced in the knitting mode has uneven stitch in cloth cover quality and has a lot of defects, and the fabric has poor resilience.
  • the gray fabric of the free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe produced in Embodiment 1 is woven into a sports garment piece with a schematic structural diagram as shown in FIG. 2 , where edges of an apparel fabric where 2 a , 2 b , 2 c and 2 d of the sports garment piece are located do not need to undergo edge processing, a garment does not need to undergo heat bonding processing or hemming-stitch, an edge fabric can be made thin, and the garment wears comfortable.
  • the free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe produced in Embodiment 2 is woven into a pair of shorts including sides A and B, where the schematic structural diagram of the side A is shown in FIG. 3 , and the schematic structural diagram of the side B is shown in FIG. 4 .
  • the edges of the apparel fabric where 3 a , 3 b and 3 c are located do not need to undergo edge processing.
  • This comparative example differs from Embodiment 1 in that the non-elastic yarn and the elastic yarn are knitted in a different-direction knitting structure mode, and the other knitting methods are the same as those of Embodiment 1.
  • the warp-knitted fabric produced in the knitting mode also has a hidden cross stripe effect, and does not have the free-cut characteristics.
  • This comparative example differs from Embodiment 1 in that the non-elastic yarn passes across a guide needle of the first guide bar and is knitted in an open warp plain stitch loop mode through three needles (the yarn laying digital is 2-3/1-0//), and the elastic yarn passes across a guide needle of the second guide bar and is knitted in an open warp plain stitch loop mode through two needles (the yarn laying digital is 1-2/1-0//), to form a gray fabric of the free-cut warp-knitted fabric.
  • the warp-knitted fabric produced in the knitting mode has free-cut characteristics, but does not have a hidden cross stripe effect, and the cloth cover has a plain weave effect.
  • This comparative example differs from Embodiment 1 in that the non-elastic yarn passes across a guide needle of the first guide bar and is knitted in a closed warp sateen loop mode through three needles (the yarn laying digital is 0-1/2-1/3-2/1-2//), and the elastic yarn passes across a guide needle of the second guide bar and is knitted in a closed warp sateen loop mode through three needles (the yarn laying digital is 0-1/2-1/3-2/1-2//), to form a gray fabric of the free-cut warp-knitted fabric with a hidden cross stripe.
  • the warp-knitted fabric produced in the knitting mode has free-cut characteristics and also has a hidden cross stripe effect, but the tensile properties of the fabric are poor, and the value is smaller, which limits the scope of wearability.
  • this standard is to test the elongation of the woven or knitted elastic fabric under the agreed tensile force; the test sample size was 9 ⁇ 3 inch, fabrics of embodiments and comparative examples were taken in the horizontal direction and the longitudinal direction, the tensile force instrument used was Zwick/Roell's H01-LLJ-004 tensile machine, using a force of 7.5 lb, with an intermediate clamping distance of 127 mm and a stretching speed of 20 in/min, and the cycle stretch was performed twice.
  • test sample size was 140*140 mm.
  • the test samples underwent forward rotation for 50 turns at a speed of 60 r/min, and underwent reversal rotation for 50 turns; the cycle was performed 10 times, 1000 turns were performed in total, and then the samples were taken out and compared with a standard grading picture to obtain snagging grades. There are grades 1-5, grade 5 is the best, and grade 1 is the worst.
  • the free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe knitted with the structure according to the preset invention has an optimal yarn using collocation range combination, and the fabric knitted in this way has superiority in terms of elasticity, snagging and hand feeling.
  • the fabrics produced by using coarser yarns in Embodiments 6 and 7 are harder in hand feeling and poorer in elasticity, and many products are not suitable for use.
  • fabrics obtained by adopting other structures, such as reverse yarn laying movement of Comparative Example 1 also have a hidden cross stripe effect, but do not have free-cut characteristics;
  • Comparative Example 2 uses other same-direction yarn laying structures, has free-cut characteristics, but does not have a hidden cross stripe effect, and the cloth cover has a plain weave effect and the competitiveness is lost;
  • Comparative Example 3 uses a three-needle closed warp sateen structure, has free-cut characteristics and also has a hidden cross stripe effect, but the tensile properties of the fabric are poor, and the value is smaller, which limits the scope of wearability.
  • the present invention is superior to the prior art in terms of structure and properties of finished fabrics.
  • the free-cut warp-knitted fabric with a hidden cross stripe provided by the present invention can be arbitrarily cut, does not ravel easily, is free of hemming-stitch, and has a hidden cross stripe effect. Only by means of a knitting structure, the process for knitting the free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe maintains an original cutting state without edge processing, without laser cutting and without heating bonding processing.
  • the fabric can be produced by ordinary electric shears, and thus the cost is greatly reduced.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
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