US20130191968A1 - Elastic leather clothing - Google Patents

Elastic leather clothing Download PDF

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Publication number
US20130191968A1
US20130191968A1 US13/812,008 US201013812008A US2013191968A1 US 20130191968 A1 US20130191968 A1 US 20130191968A1 US 201013812008 A US201013812008 A US 201013812008A US 2013191968 A1 US2013191968 A1 US 2013191968A1
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US
United States
Prior art keywords
leather
elastic material
portions
clothing according
folds
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Abandoned
Application number
US13/812,008
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English (en)
Inventor
Christine Becker-Weber
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Individual
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Individual
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Individual filed Critical Individual
Publication of US20130191968A1 publication Critical patent/US20130191968A1/en
Abandoned legal-status Critical Current

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/24—Hems; Seams
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D5/00—Fur garments; Garments of fur substitutes

Definitions

  • the invention relates to leather clothing, comprising an outer layer made of leather, which is connected to an inner layer made of elastic material.
  • German patent D 297 764 describes connecting leather to rubber filaments or rubber surfaces. A bonding of rubber material and leather is also mentioned here.
  • the disadvantage of the resulting composite material is that, due to the rubber layer and the adhesive it has a relatively high weight, and the material only conforms to the body shapes with a relatively high resistance, that is to say that the wearer's comfort is reduced.
  • the hitherto known “elastic leather” is made of material that is to some extent lightweight, it is subject to very unattractive wrinkles and bags. With a relatively thick layer of the rubber surfaces and relatively very thin leather, the material is comparatively inelastic, can only be bent with great effort and is absolutely air impermeable. Even as regards its external appearance, it corresponds predominantly to a rubber skin, as a result of which exposed bones or protruding body curves are visible from the outside in a way that is not always desirable.
  • the invention teaches that the leather is provided with folds over the predominant part of its surface, which are distributed regularly over the surface and are spaced by a multiplicity of seams, bond the leather to the elastic material, and that the elastic material is a textile fabric.
  • the invention is thus distinguished from the prior art by the simultaneous use of the three characteristics “folds” and “seams that are spaced from one another” and “elastic fabric.”
  • a first essential feature of the invention is the folds that are homogeneously distributed over the leather surface. In general, they are so small that they are raised no more than three to four millimetres over the surface but are large enough to be able to fold draw like a concertina under extreme tensile loading, that is to say form an additional safety margin for expansion of the material. As a result, at highly loaded points—such as knees or elbows—material is kept in reserve, which under loading permits the material to expand relatively comfortably without irreversibly changing. The formation of unattractive “bags” is thus at least greatly restricted, usually even eliminated.
  • a multiplicity of relatively small folds, principally oriented in the same direction, are also known as “crushed leather.” They are produced, for example, by lateral compression of the material.
  • One possible way of producing them is to insert the leather between two metal surface that are oriented parallel to one another, between which the distance is as great as the maximum desired curvature of the folds with respect to the adjacent planar portions of the leather.
  • the leather is pressed into this pocket from one lateral edge, that is to say compressed.
  • the resulting folds are in particular very stable when the leather is thoroughly moistened and heated during the crushing. Temperatures up to 140° C. are appropriate.
  • the second characteristic feature of the invention is the bonding of the elastic material to the leather by means of seams. Unlike many other methods of bonding elastic material and leather, a seam has a multiplicity of advantages.
  • the resulting connection is permanent and durable and, if the quality of the connecting thread is appropriate, also resists dry cleaning and moisture and the butyric acid of human sweat. The problem of the bond being loosened after a relatively short time due to chemical reactions from the environment or continuously reversing movements is thus eliminated.
  • a further advantage of the arrangement which is not to be underestimated, is the elastic filaments of the textile elastic material. Due to their large number, the loading is uniformly distributed onto the seams and onto the leather surface. As a result, the seams are uniformly loaded, so that the risk of tearing of the seam is reduced.
  • the uniform force distribution due to the elastic material is an advantage. Spot overloads, as for example in the case of rubber filaments, are avoided.
  • a further advantage is the air permeability of the fabric. Since the textile fabric is only firmly connected to the leather at the seams, but in the regions lying therebetween can be removed from the leather by a small amount, air layers collected between the elastic material, in the case of movements by the wearer, and—for example, in the case of a relatively high ambient temperature—assist the removal of hot and moist air.
  • the leather-composite material according to the invention can also be used for very lightweight outer clothing lying close on the body, such as, for example, summer suits for ladies.
  • the elastic material acts as a safety margin, which avoids an exceeding of the maximum permissible stretching limit of the leather material.
  • the risk of tearing in the skirt during standing up, sitting down or in the event of large steps is reduced.
  • the formation of a disadvantageous bag at the elbows is reduced or eliminated.
  • the function of the elastic material as tear prevention therefore permits leather of only 0.25 to 0.5 mm thickness to be used.
  • the composite material according to the invention can also be supplemented by a third layer, which can be inserted, bonded in, sewn in, or otherwise fastened, as an “inlay” between the elastic material and leather.
  • This inlay may be, for example, an additional insulation layer for winter clothing.
  • Another function is the stiffening of particular regions of clothing, such as the end region of sleeves or the reverse of a suit jacket.
  • the inlay may, however, also perform many other functions. It is thus conceivable to insert a spacer scrim, which permits ventilation. If a cooling means or heating means is disposed in the clothing article, or in the vicinity thereof, the clothing can be cooled or heated with an air stream by the spacer scrim. Also conceivable are inlays that are provided with nubs or other spacers, and thereby have a similar effect to a spacer scrim.
  • a clothing article in most cases consists of a plurality of blanks, which are connected to one another via a seam, it is appropriate to also use this seam for connecting the leather pieces to the blanks of the elastic material.
  • two adjacent leather portions are sewn to two portions of elastic material.
  • the end regions of the two adjacent leather portions can overlap in just the same way as the end regions of the two adjacent blanks of the elastic material.
  • the invention proposes, as an alternative embodiment, that the leather portions in the region of the seams only contact one another at their cut edges. Or—differently formulated—the leather portions are “butt jointed” together. Since the openings in the edge region of the leather portions, through which the threads of the seam run, must have a particular minimum distance from the cut edge of the leather portion so that the opening does not tear open, the result is that, between the two openings on two adjacent leather portions, the thread run along the surface of the leather for a clearly visible length.
  • the invention prefers that the thread consists, at least in the longitudinal direction, of an elastic material, so that, when the elastic limit of the elastic material is reached, it can serve as an additional safety margin.
  • the elasticity of the thread should be so high that, under load, first the elastic material is expanded and only then the threads, which form the seams for joining the individual portions to one another.
  • Such a thread can consist, for example, of elastic polyester.
  • it is built up of a plurality of individual threads that are each hardly elastic per se, which by means of knots or other loops effect an elasticity of the overall thread in its longitudinal direction.
  • the leather is “crushed.”
  • the invention prefers that all the folds in the surface of the leather run predominantly in approximately the same direction.
  • FIG. 1 Such a variant is shown in FIG. 1 .
  • This configuration occurs during compression of the leather from only a single cut edge.
  • Such a leather that is crushed only in one direction has the advantage of having a particularly high elasticity only in one direction. In all other directions, the elasticity of the leather is as determined by the material itself.
  • leather has folds that are oriented in a plurality of directions that are essentially different from one another.
  • the folds run predominantly only in one of two mutually crossing directions.
  • the leather has the same elasticity in both directions, which is effected by the temporary “drawing apart” of these folds.
  • the fold run in the longitudinal direction of the respective body part.
  • the folds for a jacket can compensate for, for example, breathing or filling of pockets.
  • the enlargement of the circumference in the region of the knee can be compensated.
  • the “bagginess” in the region of the elbow during bending of the arms can be compensated.
  • the elastic material can be provided on its side facing the body with a coating improving the slip. If the leather material is used, for example, for a suit jacket or for trousers, in which elongated regions such as the sleeves or the trouser legs, must be slid over the corresponding body parts, it is of advantage if they slide particularly well on the elastic material because the process of dressing and undressing, which are always perceived as difficult, is perceptibly facilitated.
  • FIG. 1 shows a greatly enlarged section of the seam region of leather clothing according to the invention.
  • FIG. 1 a portion is graphically cut out of the seam region of leather clothing and greatly enlarged. It is shown in perspective view. At the cut edges, the outer layer of leather ( 1 ) can be seen as the upper layer. In the surface and at the cut edge, a plurality of folds ( 11 ) can be clearly recognised. These folds ( 11 ) are curved upwards, and—like the gable roof of a house—form an upwardly pointing edge. This edge is recognisable as a clearly showing-through line in the network of the leather ( 1 ), which is grained in this example. The fact that these folds only have a low elevation with respect to the overall surface of the leather ( 1 ) can be derived from the size of the seam ( 3 ) in the picture centre.
  • the thread ( 31 ) which forms the seam ( 3 ), with its sections projecting beyond the outside of the leather ( 1 ), is recognizable as a row of strongly curved, approximately ring-shaped elements.
  • the upwardly projecting portions of the thread ( 31 ) continue on the inside of the elastic material ( 2 ).
  • the thread ( 31 ) continues both through the upper layer off leather ( 1 ), specifically through the left-hand leather portion ( 12 ), and through the right-hand leather portion ( 12 ). The thread ( 31 ) then runs further through those sections of the elastic material ( 2 ) that are located below each leather portion ( 12 ).
  • the elastic material ( 2 ) is, in the cross-section, identified by a dotted line at its edge faces. In the region of the seam ( 3 ) it can be seen that the elastic material ends in a small bead. This bead serves to prevent the textile fibres, of which the elastic material ( 2 ) is made, from coming apart.
  • FIG. 1 at the cut edge, it can be clearly seen that the surface of the leather ( 1 ), with its grains, has a larger surface than the layer of elastic material ( 2 ) that is disposed below it. If the elastic material ( 2 ) is stretched within its plane, it is clear from FIG. 1 that the leather layer that lies thereon is also stretched, and, with it, not only the leather layer in the picture centre of FIG. 1 but also that which is connected at seams parallel thereto—not shown here—is also stretched. By this means, the roof-like, upwardly domed folds are pulled apart, so that the leather is at first stretched without further stressing of its internal structure by the fact that the fold are “pulled smooth.”
  • FIG. 1 shows very impressively that, in the outwardly facing surface of the leather, the folds ( 11 ), do not ned to run over entire length in strict parallelism, but are only oriented approximately parallel and can also be of limited length.
US13/812,008 2010-07-24 2010-10-08 Elastic leather clothing Abandoned US20130191968A1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102010032121A DE102010032121A1 (de) 2010-07-24 2010-07-24 Elastische Lederbekleidung
DE102010032121.4 2010-07-24
PCT/DE2010/001192 WO2012013172A1 (de) 2010-07-24 2010-10-08 Elastische lederbekleidung

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
US20130191968A1 true US20130191968A1 (en) 2013-08-01

Family

ID=43769064

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
US13/812,008 Abandoned US20130191968A1 (en) 2010-07-24 2010-10-08 Elastic leather clothing

Country Status (7)

Country Link
US (1) US20130191968A1 (ko)
EP (1) EP2595499B1 (ko)
CN (1) CN103118559B (ko)
DE (2) DE102010032121A1 (ko)
ES (1) ES2548057T3 (ko)
RU (1) RU2536624C2 (ko)
WO (1) WO2012013172A1 (ko)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN112223864A (zh) * 2019-07-14 2021-01-15 北京服装学院 一种可折叠皮革面料

Families Citing this family (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN105919179B (zh) * 2016-05-11 2017-06-16 浙江诺之股份有限公司 皮衣缝制工艺
RU2705148C1 (ru) * 2019-08-29 2019-11-05 Константин Эдуардович Разумеев Способ изготовления изделий из меха

Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1606900A (en) * 1925-12-18 1926-11-16 Rockwood A Waldo Corrugated trimming and process of making same
US1806673A (en) * 1931-05-26 Boot ob shoe and method oxi making sake
US2122251A (en) * 1937-11-18 1938-06-28 Hartmann Inc Method of securing decorative effects on leather or similar goods
US3846844A (en) * 1973-07-18 1974-11-12 Ben Kahn Furs Corp Reversible fur garment
US5014636A (en) * 1989-05-11 1991-05-14 Mcguire- Nicholas Company, Inc. Composite padded fabric material and edge binding system
US20080092266A1 (en) * 2006-10-19 2008-04-24 Tanja Muller Pants, in particular riding jeans
US20080120793A1 (en) * 2005-02-02 2008-05-29 Hideki Tomiyama Method of Leather Processing and Leather of Three-Dimensional Shape

Family Cites Families (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2059747A (en) * 1936-02-19 1936-11-03 Us Rubber Prod Inc Elastic multi-ply material and elastic shoe embodying the same
US2318497A (en) * 1941-09-25 1943-05-04 Charles I Rockmore Inc Plaited material and method of making the same
GB797523A (en) * 1953-12-24 1958-07-02 American Viscose Corp Composite laminated sheet materials
DD297764A5 (de) * 1990-01-24 1992-01-23 Kroker,Angelika,De Ganzflaechiges stretchen von leder zur verarbeitung fuer design- und bekleidungszwecke durch einbringen von gummiflaechen oder -faeden in/unter das leder
KR0131424B1 (ko) * 1994-09-27 1998-04-16 이중호 결합모피직물 및 그의 제조방법
US6627564B1 (en) * 2000-08-31 2003-09-30 Kimberly-Clark Worldwide, Inc. Composite elastic in one direction and extensible in another direction
JP4648570B2 (ja) * 2001-05-21 2011-03-09 剛氏有限公司 毛皮生地及びこれを使用した製品
CN101348024A (zh) * 2008-06-03 2009-01-21 珠海港丽鞋业有限公司 一种真皮或皮革加工工艺

Patent Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1806673A (en) * 1931-05-26 Boot ob shoe and method oxi making sake
US1606900A (en) * 1925-12-18 1926-11-16 Rockwood A Waldo Corrugated trimming and process of making same
US2122251A (en) * 1937-11-18 1938-06-28 Hartmann Inc Method of securing decorative effects on leather or similar goods
US3846844A (en) * 1973-07-18 1974-11-12 Ben Kahn Furs Corp Reversible fur garment
US5014636A (en) * 1989-05-11 1991-05-14 Mcguire- Nicholas Company, Inc. Composite padded fabric material and edge binding system
US20080120793A1 (en) * 2005-02-02 2008-05-29 Hideki Tomiyama Method of Leather Processing and Leather of Three-Dimensional Shape
US20080092266A1 (en) * 2006-10-19 2008-04-24 Tanja Muller Pants, in particular riding jeans

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN112223864A (zh) * 2019-07-14 2021-01-15 北京服装学院 一种可折叠皮革面料

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP2595499A1 (de) 2013-05-29
RU2013102546A (ru) 2014-08-27
WO2012013172A1 (de) 2012-02-02
RU2536624C2 (ru) 2014-12-27
DE102010032121A1 (de) 2012-01-26
DE112010005766A5 (de) 2013-05-08
CN103118559B (zh) 2015-08-05
CN103118559A (zh) 2013-05-22
ES2548057T3 (es) 2015-10-13
EP2595499B1 (de) 2015-07-01

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