EP2595499B1 - Elastische lederbekleidung - Google Patents

Elastische lederbekleidung Download PDF

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Publication number
EP2595499B1
EP2595499B1 EP10794856.4A EP10794856A EP2595499B1 EP 2595499 B1 EP2595499 B1 EP 2595499B1 EP 10794856 A EP10794856 A EP 10794856A EP 2595499 B1 EP2595499 B1 EP 2595499B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
leather
elastic material
portions
clothing according
folds
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Active
Application number
EP10794856.4A
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German (de)
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP2595499A1 (de
Inventor
Christine Becker-Weber
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Individual
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Individual
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Publication of EP2595499A1 publication Critical patent/EP2595499A1/de
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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/24—Hems; Seams
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D5/00—Fur garments; Garments of fur substitutes

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a leather garment consisting of an outer layer of leather, which is connected to an inner layer of elastic material, which is a textile fabric, wherein the leather over the majority of its surface is provided with folds about regularly over the Area are distributed.
  • the patent D 297 764 describes that leather is connected with rubber threads or with rubber surfaces. It is also called a bond of rubber material and leather.
  • the disadvantage of the resulting composite material is that it gets a relatively high weight through the rubber layer and the adhesive and that the material adapts to the shapes of the body only with an increased resistance, so that the wearing comfort is reduced.
  • the hitherto known "elastic leather” is performed as reasonably light material, it shows very unsightly wrinkles and bumps. With a relatively thick layer thickness of the rubber surfaces and relatively thin leather, the material is relatively inelastic, bend only with increased effort and absolutely impermeable to air. Also in its external appearance, it mainly corresponds to a rubber skin, which clearly shows off exposed bones or bulging curves of the body in a not always welcome manner to the outside.
  • the GB 797,523 describes a double-layered material whose leather layer is brought into a wave form prior to bonding and now has parallel wave peaks and troughs. Adhesive is applied to all wave crests on one side, which connects the wavy leather with a second layer of textile fabric. Although the entire elasticity of the leather layer is increased by the waveform by a stretch of the material first a "wave mountain" of the leather layer is pulled apart. Only when the wave crest is flat, the elasticity of the leather itself is claimed in a further elongation.
  • the disadvantage here is that the adhesive penetrates not only in very thin leather layers or thin textile fabric not only in the layers but they can penetrate and then visible to the outside as a visually unattractive spot.
  • the adhesive that has penetrated outward hardens it can form hard edges, which in the user under his leather clothing wear damaged clothing or injure his skin.
  • connection between leather and elastic fabric is not very durable and can therefore be solved early. Then, in the leather layer, at points of increased movement, ugly bulges are again formed in the leather layer.
  • the invention has taken on the task of developing a material for leather clothing, which provides a uniform appearance across its surface and which is very elastic and body shapes such as kneecaps or elbows adapts with relatively very little resistance and that as well thin material is suitable for light, summery clothing.
  • the invention teaches, see claim 1, that a plurality of seams, which are spaced apart, connect the leather with the elastic material, wherein the textile fabric is only at the seams firmly connected to the leather and in the intermediate areas by a small Can remove amount from the leather.
  • the invention therefore stands out from the prior art by the simultaneous use of the three characteristic features "folds” and “spaced seams” and “elastic fabric” from. These three features, which are already known per se, bring about new and hitherto unknown properties of the invented composite material due to their hitherto unknown and inventive composition.
  • a first essential feature of the invention is the wrinkles distributed homogeneously over the leather surface. They are usually so small that they do not rise more than three to four millimeters beyond the surface, but are of sufficient size to be able to unfold under extreme tensile load similar to a concertina, ie an additional material reserve for expanding the To form materials. This is at heavily loaded areas - such. B. knees or elbows - material held in reserve, which allows a relatively pleasant expansion of the material under load without its irreversible change. The formation of disturbing "bumps" is therefore at least severely restricted, usually even eliminated.
  • the second characteristic feature of the invention is the connection of the elastic material with the leather through seams.
  • a seam has many advantages.
  • the resulting compound is durable and long-term stability and resists with the appropriate quality of the connecting thread also chemical cleaning and moisture and the butyric acid of human sweat.
  • Another advantage is the air permeability of the fabric. Since the textile fabric is firmly attached to the leather only at the seams, but can move in the intermediate areas by a small amount of leather, accumulate during movements of the wearer air layers between the elastic material and the leather, thereby characterized for a Provide ventilation and - z. B. at relatively high ambient temperature - support the removal of warm and humid air.
  • the leather composite material according to the invention can also be used for very light outer garment which fits snugly against the body, such as, for example, outerwear. B. for summer costumes for ladies.
  • the elastic material acts as a safety brake, which avoids exceeding the maximum allowable yield strength of the leather material. This reduces the risk of rock cracking when getting up, sitting down or taking big strides.
  • z. B. in a costume jacket on the elbows the formation of a disadvantageous bump is reduced or eliminated.
  • the function of the elastic material as a tear protection therefore makes it possible to use leather of only 0.25-0.5 mm layer thickness.
  • the composite material according to the invention may also be supplemented by a third layer which can be inserted, glued, sewn or otherwise fastened as an "insert" between elastic material and leather.
  • This deposit can z. B. be an additional insulating layer for winter clothing. Another function is the stiffening of certain areas of clothing such. B. the end of sleeves or the lapel of a costume jacket.
  • the insert can also perform many other functions.
  • a spacer knitted fabric which allows ventilation. If a cooling device or a heater is arranged in the garment or in its vicinity, the clothing can be cooled or heated with an air flow through the spacer fabric.
  • inserts that are equipped with knobs or other spacers and thus have a similar effect as a spacer knitted fabric.
  • the end regions of the two adjoining leather pieces may overlap as well as the end regions of the two adjoining blanks of the elastic material. Because there however, a bead is formed in the material, which has twice the thickness of the adjacent composite material, the invention proposes that touch the leather pieces in the seams only at their cutting edges. Or - in another formulation - the pieces of leather are put together "on impact". Since the openings in the edge region of the leather pieces through which the thread of the seam passes must have a certain minimum distance from the cut edge of the piece of leather, so that the opening is not torn, it follows that the thread between the two openings on two adjacent pieces of leather for a clearly visible Length runs along the surface of the leather.
  • the invention proposes that the thread consists of an at least longitudinally elastic material, so that it can serve as an additional safety reserve when reaching the yield point of the elastic material. It follows that the elasticity of the thread should be so high that under load first the elastic material is stretched and only then are the threads forming the seams for joining the individual pieces together.
  • Such a thread may for example consist of elastic polyester.
  • he is made up of several, hardly alone elastic, individual threads constructed, which cause by knots or other entanglements elasticity of the entire thread in its longitudinal direction.
  • the leather is "crashed".
  • the invention prefers that all wrinkles in the surface of the leather are predominantly in an approximately same direction.
  • Such a variant is in the FIG. 1 shown.
  • This configuration results from compressing the leather from only a single cutting edge.
  • Such a crashed leather in one direction has the advantage of having a particularly high elasticity in one direction only. In all other directions, the elasticity of the leather is as dictated by the material itself.
  • the elastic material may be provided on its body-facing side with a lubricity-improving coating. If the leather material z. B. is used for a costume jacket or trousers, in which elongated areas such as the sleeves or trouser legs must be striped over the corresponding body parts, it is advantageous if they slide particularly well on the elastic material, because thereby always perceived as a hindrance Process of dressing and lining is noticeably easier.
  • FIG. 1 is drawn from the seam area of a leather clothing a piece cut out and greatly enlarged. It is shown in perspective view.
  • the outer layer of leather (1) can be recognized as the upper layer.
  • several folds (11) are clearly visible. These folds (11) are curved upwards and form - similar to the saddle roof of a house - an upwardly facing edge. This edge is grained in the net of the example in this example Leather (1) as a clearly visible line recognizable. That these wrinkles have only a very slight elevation relative to the entire surface of the leather (1), is derived from the size of the seam (3) in the center of the image.
  • the thread (31) forming the seam (3) with its sections projecting beyond the outside of the leather (1), can be seen as a sequence of strongly curved, approximately annular elements.
  • the thread (31) In the front area of the FIG. 1 It can clearly be seen how the upwardly protruding parts of the thread (31) continue on the inside of the elastic material (2).
  • FIG. 1 is also clearly seen that the thread (31) continues through both the upper layer of leather (1) through the left leather piece (12) as well as through the right leather piece (12). The thread (31) then continues through the blanks of the elastic material (2) located below each piece of leather (12).
  • the elastic material (2) is characterized in cross section at its front edges by puncturing. In the area of the seam (3) it can be seen that the elastic material runs off in a small bead. This bead serves to prevent divergence of the textile threads that make up the elastic material (2).
  • FIG. 1 is clearly visible at the cutting edge that the surface of the leather (1) with their grain has a larger surface than the underlying layer of elastic material (2).
  • the elastic material (2) is elongated within its plane, it is in FIG. 1 comprehensible, that also the lying on it and with her not only in the center of FIG. 1 but also parallel to this running - not shown here - seams associated leather layer is also lengthened.
  • the roof-like folds are pulled upwards, so that the leather is first lengthened without further stress on its internal structure only by folding the folds "smoothly".
  • FIG. 1 shows very impressively that in the outward-facing surface of the leather, the pleats (11) do not have to run along the entire length in strict parallelism, but are aligned only approximately parallel and can also be of a limited length.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Treatment And Processing Of Natural Fur Or Leather (AREA)
  • Gloves (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
  • Laminated Bodies (AREA)
EP10794856.4A 2010-07-24 2010-10-08 Elastische lederbekleidung Active EP2595499B1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102010032121A DE102010032121A1 (de) 2010-07-24 2010-07-24 Elastische Lederbekleidung
PCT/DE2010/001192 WO2012013172A1 (de) 2010-07-24 2010-10-08 Elastische lederbekleidung

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP2595499A1 EP2595499A1 (de) 2013-05-29
EP2595499B1 true EP2595499B1 (de) 2015-07-01

Family

ID=43769064

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP10794856.4A Active EP2595499B1 (de) 2010-07-24 2010-10-08 Elastische lederbekleidung

Country Status (7)

Country Link
US (1) US20130191968A1 (ko)
EP (1) EP2595499B1 (ko)
CN (1) CN103118559B (ko)
DE (2) DE102010032121A1 (ko)
ES (1) ES2548057T3 (ko)
RU (1) RU2536624C2 (ko)
WO (1) WO2012013172A1 (ko)

Families Citing this family (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN105919179B (zh) * 2016-05-11 2017-06-16 浙江诺之股份有限公司 皮衣缝制工艺
CN112223864A (zh) * 2019-07-14 2021-01-15 北京服装学院 一种可折叠皮革面料
RU2705148C1 (ru) * 2019-08-29 2019-11-05 Константин Эдуардович Разумеев Способ изготовления изделий из меха

Family Cites Families (15)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1806673A (en) * 1931-05-26 Boot ob shoe and method oxi making sake
US1606900A (en) * 1925-12-18 1926-11-16 Rockwood A Waldo Corrugated trimming and process of making same
US2059747A (en) * 1936-02-19 1936-11-03 Us Rubber Prod Inc Elastic multi-ply material and elastic shoe embodying the same
US2122251A (en) * 1937-11-18 1938-06-28 Hartmann Inc Method of securing decorative effects on leather or similar goods
US2318497A (en) * 1941-09-25 1943-05-04 Charles I Rockmore Inc Plaited material and method of making the same
GB797523A (en) * 1953-12-24 1958-07-02 American Viscose Corp Composite laminated sheet materials
US3846844A (en) * 1973-07-18 1974-11-12 Ben Kahn Furs Corp Reversible fur garment
US5014636A (en) * 1989-05-11 1991-05-14 Mcguire- Nicholas Company, Inc. Composite padded fabric material and edge binding system
DD297764A5 (de) * 1990-01-24 1992-01-23 Kroker,Angelika,De Ganzflaechiges stretchen von leder zur verarbeitung fuer design- und bekleidungszwecke durch einbringen von gummiflaechen oder -faeden in/unter das leder
KR0131424B1 (ko) * 1994-09-27 1998-04-16 이중호 결합모피직물 및 그의 제조방법
US6627564B1 (en) * 2000-08-31 2003-09-30 Kimberly-Clark Worldwide, Inc. Composite elastic in one direction and extensible in another direction
JP4648570B2 (ja) * 2001-05-21 2011-03-09 剛氏有限公司 毛皮生地及びこれを使用した製品
CN101111609A (zh) * 2005-02-02 2008-01-23 有限公社绞里庵 皮革加工方法和立体形状皮革
DE202006016727U1 (de) * 2006-10-19 2007-03-01 MÜLLER, Tanja Hose, insbesondere Reithose in Jeansform
CN101348024A (zh) * 2008-06-03 2009-01-21 珠海港丽鞋业有限公司 一种真皮或皮革加工工艺

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
CN103118559B (zh) 2015-08-05
EP2595499A1 (de) 2013-05-29
CN103118559A (zh) 2013-05-22
US20130191968A1 (en) 2013-08-01
DE102010032121A1 (de) 2012-01-26
WO2012013172A1 (de) 2012-02-02
DE112010005766A5 (de) 2013-05-08
RU2013102546A (ru) 2014-08-27
ES2548057T3 (es) 2015-10-13
RU2536624C2 (ru) 2014-12-27

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