EP2595499B1 - Elastic leather clothing - Google Patents
Elastic leather clothing Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- EP2595499B1 EP2595499B1 EP10794856.4A EP10794856A EP2595499B1 EP 2595499 B1 EP2595499 B1 EP 2595499B1 EP 10794856 A EP10794856 A EP 10794856A EP 2595499 B1 EP2595499 B1 EP 2595499B1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- leather
- elastic material
- portions
- clothing according
- folds
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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- 239000010985 leather Substances 0.000 title claims description 117
- 239000013013 elastic material Substances 0.000 claims description 37
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 claims description 25
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 claims description 13
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000007906 compression Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000006835 compression Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000011248 coating agent Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000000576 coating method Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 230000037303 wrinkles Effects 0.000 description 9
- 230000008901 benefit Effects 0.000 description 6
- 239000000853 adhesive Substances 0.000 description 5
- 230000001070 adhesive effect Effects 0.000 description 5
- 239000002131 composite material Substances 0.000 description 5
- 238000005520 cutting process Methods 0.000 description 4
- 210000002414 leg Anatomy 0.000 description 4
- 125000006850 spacer group Chemical group 0.000 description 4
- 239000011324 bead Substances 0.000 description 3
- 210000003127 knee Anatomy 0.000 description 3
- FERIUCNNQQJTOY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Butyric acid Chemical compound CCCC(O)=O FERIUCNNQQJTOY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 241001465754 Metazoa Species 0.000 description 2
- 238000005452 bending Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000015572 biosynthetic process Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000005304 joining Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000009827 uniform distribution Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000009423 ventilation Methods 0.000 description 2
- 208000008454 Hyperhidrosis Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 230000037237 body shape Effects 0.000 description 1
- 210000000988 bone and bone Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 230000008859 change Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000006243 chemical reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000004140 cleaning Methods 0.000 description 1
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 238000001816 cooling Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000005336 cracking Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000009472 formulation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000003780 insertion Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000037431 insertion Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000002427 irreversible effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000007774 longterm Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000002184 metal Substances 0.000 description 1
- 210000004417 patella Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 230000035699 permeability Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000029058 respiratory gaseous exchange Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000011435 rock Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000009958 sewing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 1
- 210000004243 sweat Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 208000013460 sweaty Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 230000000007 visual effect Effects 0.000 description 1
Images
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
- A41D27/24—Hems; Seams
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D5/00—Fur garments; Garments of fur substitutes
Definitions
- the invention relates to a leather garment consisting of an outer layer of leather, which is connected to an inner layer of elastic material, which is a textile fabric, wherein the leather over the majority of its surface is provided with folds about regularly over the Area are distributed.
- the patent D 297 764 describes that leather is connected with rubber threads or with rubber surfaces. It is also called a bond of rubber material and leather.
- the disadvantage of the resulting composite material is that it gets a relatively high weight through the rubber layer and the adhesive and that the material adapts to the shapes of the body only with an increased resistance, so that the wearing comfort is reduced.
- the hitherto known "elastic leather” is performed as reasonably light material, it shows very unsightly wrinkles and bumps. With a relatively thick layer thickness of the rubber surfaces and relatively thin leather, the material is relatively inelastic, bend only with increased effort and absolutely impermeable to air. Also in its external appearance, it mainly corresponds to a rubber skin, which clearly shows off exposed bones or bulging curves of the body in a not always welcome manner to the outside.
- the GB 797,523 describes a double-layered material whose leather layer is brought into a wave form prior to bonding and now has parallel wave peaks and troughs. Adhesive is applied to all wave crests on one side, which connects the wavy leather with a second layer of textile fabric. Although the entire elasticity of the leather layer is increased by the waveform by a stretch of the material first a "wave mountain" of the leather layer is pulled apart. Only when the wave crest is flat, the elasticity of the leather itself is claimed in a further elongation.
- the disadvantage here is that the adhesive penetrates not only in very thin leather layers or thin textile fabric not only in the layers but they can penetrate and then visible to the outside as a visually unattractive spot.
- the adhesive that has penetrated outward hardens it can form hard edges, which in the user under his leather clothing wear damaged clothing or injure his skin.
- connection between leather and elastic fabric is not very durable and can therefore be solved early. Then, in the leather layer, at points of increased movement, ugly bulges are again formed in the leather layer.
- the invention has taken on the task of developing a material for leather clothing, which provides a uniform appearance across its surface and which is very elastic and body shapes such as kneecaps or elbows adapts with relatively very little resistance and that as well thin material is suitable for light, summery clothing.
- the invention teaches, see claim 1, that a plurality of seams, which are spaced apart, connect the leather with the elastic material, wherein the textile fabric is only at the seams firmly connected to the leather and in the intermediate areas by a small Can remove amount from the leather.
- the invention therefore stands out from the prior art by the simultaneous use of the three characteristic features "folds” and “spaced seams” and “elastic fabric” from. These three features, which are already known per se, bring about new and hitherto unknown properties of the invented composite material due to their hitherto unknown and inventive composition.
- a first essential feature of the invention is the wrinkles distributed homogeneously over the leather surface. They are usually so small that they do not rise more than three to four millimeters beyond the surface, but are of sufficient size to be able to unfold under extreme tensile load similar to a concertina, ie an additional material reserve for expanding the To form materials. This is at heavily loaded areas - such. B. knees or elbows - material held in reserve, which allows a relatively pleasant expansion of the material under load without its irreversible change. The formation of disturbing "bumps" is therefore at least severely restricted, usually even eliminated.
- the second characteristic feature of the invention is the connection of the elastic material with the leather through seams.
- a seam has many advantages.
- the resulting compound is durable and long-term stability and resists with the appropriate quality of the connecting thread also chemical cleaning and moisture and the butyric acid of human sweat.
- Another advantage is the air permeability of the fabric. Since the textile fabric is firmly attached to the leather only at the seams, but can move in the intermediate areas by a small amount of leather, accumulate during movements of the wearer air layers between the elastic material and the leather, thereby characterized for a Provide ventilation and - z. B. at relatively high ambient temperature - support the removal of warm and humid air.
- the leather composite material according to the invention can also be used for very light outer garment which fits snugly against the body, such as, for example, outerwear. B. for summer costumes for ladies.
- the elastic material acts as a safety brake, which avoids exceeding the maximum allowable yield strength of the leather material. This reduces the risk of rock cracking when getting up, sitting down or taking big strides.
- z. B. in a costume jacket on the elbows the formation of a disadvantageous bump is reduced or eliminated.
- the function of the elastic material as a tear protection therefore makes it possible to use leather of only 0.25-0.5 mm layer thickness.
- the composite material according to the invention may also be supplemented by a third layer which can be inserted, glued, sewn or otherwise fastened as an "insert" between elastic material and leather.
- This deposit can z. B. be an additional insulating layer for winter clothing. Another function is the stiffening of certain areas of clothing such. B. the end of sleeves or the lapel of a costume jacket.
- the insert can also perform many other functions.
- a spacer knitted fabric which allows ventilation. If a cooling device or a heater is arranged in the garment or in its vicinity, the clothing can be cooled or heated with an air flow through the spacer fabric.
- inserts that are equipped with knobs or other spacers and thus have a similar effect as a spacer knitted fabric.
- the end regions of the two adjoining leather pieces may overlap as well as the end regions of the two adjoining blanks of the elastic material. Because there however, a bead is formed in the material, which has twice the thickness of the adjacent composite material, the invention proposes that touch the leather pieces in the seams only at their cutting edges. Or - in another formulation - the pieces of leather are put together "on impact". Since the openings in the edge region of the leather pieces through which the thread of the seam passes must have a certain minimum distance from the cut edge of the piece of leather, so that the opening is not torn, it follows that the thread between the two openings on two adjacent pieces of leather for a clearly visible Length runs along the surface of the leather.
- the invention proposes that the thread consists of an at least longitudinally elastic material, so that it can serve as an additional safety reserve when reaching the yield point of the elastic material. It follows that the elasticity of the thread should be so high that under load first the elastic material is stretched and only then are the threads forming the seams for joining the individual pieces together.
- Such a thread may for example consist of elastic polyester.
- he is made up of several, hardly alone elastic, individual threads constructed, which cause by knots or other entanglements elasticity of the entire thread in its longitudinal direction.
- the leather is "crashed".
- the invention prefers that all wrinkles in the surface of the leather are predominantly in an approximately same direction.
- Such a variant is in the FIG. 1 shown.
- This configuration results from compressing the leather from only a single cutting edge.
- Such a crashed leather in one direction has the advantage of having a particularly high elasticity in one direction only. In all other directions, the elasticity of the leather is as dictated by the material itself.
- the elastic material may be provided on its body-facing side with a lubricity-improving coating. If the leather material z. B. is used for a costume jacket or trousers, in which elongated areas such as the sleeves or trouser legs must be striped over the corresponding body parts, it is advantageous if they slide particularly well on the elastic material, because thereby always perceived as a hindrance Process of dressing and lining is noticeably easier.
- FIG. 1 is drawn from the seam area of a leather clothing a piece cut out and greatly enlarged. It is shown in perspective view.
- the outer layer of leather (1) can be recognized as the upper layer.
- several folds (11) are clearly visible. These folds (11) are curved upwards and form - similar to the saddle roof of a house - an upwardly facing edge. This edge is grained in the net of the example in this example Leather (1) as a clearly visible line recognizable. That these wrinkles have only a very slight elevation relative to the entire surface of the leather (1), is derived from the size of the seam (3) in the center of the image.
- the thread (31) forming the seam (3) with its sections projecting beyond the outside of the leather (1), can be seen as a sequence of strongly curved, approximately annular elements.
- the thread (31) In the front area of the FIG. 1 It can clearly be seen how the upwardly protruding parts of the thread (31) continue on the inside of the elastic material (2).
- FIG. 1 is also clearly seen that the thread (31) continues through both the upper layer of leather (1) through the left leather piece (12) as well as through the right leather piece (12). The thread (31) then continues through the blanks of the elastic material (2) located below each piece of leather (12).
- the elastic material (2) is characterized in cross section at its front edges by puncturing. In the area of the seam (3) it can be seen that the elastic material runs off in a small bead. This bead serves to prevent divergence of the textile threads that make up the elastic material (2).
- FIG. 1 is clearly visible at the cutting edge that the surface of the leather (1) with their grain has a larger surface than the underlying layer of elastic material (2).
- the elastic material (2) is elongated within its plane, it is in FIG. 1 comprehensible, that also the lying on it and with her not only in the center of FIG. 1 but also parallel to this running - not shown here - seams associated leather layer is also lengthened.
- the roof-like folds are pulled upwards, so that the leather is first lengthened without further stress on its internal structure only by folding the folds "smoothly".
- FIG. 1 shows very impressively that in the outward-facing surface of the leather, the pleats (11) do not have to run along the entire length in strict parallelism, but are aligned only approximately parallel and can also be of a limited length.
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Treatment And Processing Of Natural Fur Or Leather (AREA)
- Gloves (AREA)
- Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
- Laminated Bodies (AREA)
Description
Die Erfindung bezieht sich auf eine Lederbekleidung, bestehend aus einer Außenschicht aus Leder, die mit einer Innenschicht aus Elastikmaterial verbunden ist, das ein textiles Gewebe ist, wobei das Leder über den überwiegenden Teil seiner Fläche hinweg mit Falten versehen ist, die etwa regelmäßig über die Fläche verteilt sind.The invention relates to a leather garment consisting of an outer layer of leather, which is connected to an inner layer of elastic material, which is a textile fabric, wherein the leather over the majority of its surface is provided with folds about regularly over the Area are distributed.
Für die Bekleidung von Personen sind schon seit vielen Jahrtausenden Tierhäute genutzt worden. Auf aktuellem Stand der Technik sind zahlreiche Verfahren bekannt, die Häute von Tieren abzuziehen, vom Fell zu befreien und in verschiedenen Schritten zu gerben. Falls Leder das ausschließliche Material für die Oberbekleidung ist, muss es eine Stärke von wenigstens 1 mm aufweisen, um eine ausreichende Reißfestigkeit sicherzustellen. Nachteilig ist, dass die Kleidung dann insgesamt relativ sehr gewichtig ist und eine relativ geringe Elastizität bietet, z. B. an den Knien oder an den Ellbogen.For the clothing of persons animal skins have been used for many millennia. In the current state of the art, numerous methods are known for removing the hides from animals, ridding them of the coat and tanning them in various steps. If leather is the exclusive outerwear material, it must have a thickness of at least 1 mm to ensure sufficient tear resistance. The disadvantage is that the clothes then overall is relatively very important and offers a relatively low elasticity, z. B. at the knees or at the elbows.
Um die Elastizität von Leder zu erhöhen beschreibt die Patentschrift D 297 764, dass Leder mit Gummifäden oder mit Gummiflächen verbunden wird. Dabei wird auch eine Verklebung von Gummimaterial und Leder genannt.To increase the elasticity of leather, the patent D 297 764 describes that leather is connected with rubber threads or with rubber surfaces. It is also called a bond of rubber material and leather.
Der Nachteil des entstehenden Verbundmateriales ist, dass es durch die Gummischicht sowie durch den Klebstoff ein relativ hohes Gewicht bekommt und dass sich das Material den Formen des Körpers nur mit einem erhöhten Widerstand anpasst, dass also der Tragekomfort reduziert ist.The disadvantage of the resulting composite material is that it gets a relatively high weight through the rubber layer and the adhesive and that the material adapts to the shapes of the body only with an increased resistance, so that the wearing comfort is reduced.
Eine weitere Einschränkung ist, dass die Gummiflächen absolut luftundurchlässig sind und daher sehr schweißtreibend wirken. Daher ist dieses Material in der Praxis nur mit zusätzlichen Schichten verwendbar, die zumindest eine eingeschränkte Luftzufuhr zum Körper ermöglichen. Die Anwendung dieses Materials für sehr leichte Bekleidung - z. B. für Anwendungen im Sommer - scheidet deshalb prinzipiell aus.Another limitation is that the rubber surfaces are absolutely impermeable to air and therefore very sweaty. Therefore, in practice, this material can only be used with additional layers that provide at least a limited supply of air to the body enable. The application of this material for very light clothing - z. For example, for applications in the summer - therefore exits in principle.
Wenn das bisher bekannte "Elastikleder" als einigermaßen leichtes Material ausgeführt wird, zeigt es sehr unschöne Runzeln und Beulen. Bei einer relativ starken Schichtdicke der Gummiflächen und relativ sehr dünnem Leder ist das Material vergleichsweise unelastisch, nur mit erhöhtem Aufwand zu biegen und absolut luftundurchlässig. Auch in seinem äußeren Erscheinungsbild entspricht es vorwiegend einer Gummihaut, wodurch sich exponierte Knochen oder hervorquellende Rundungen des Körpers in nicht immer willkommener Weise nach außen hin deutlich abzeichnen.If the hitherto known "elastic leather" is performed as reasonably light material, it shows very unsightly wrinkles and bumps. With a relatively thick layer thickness of the rubber surfaces and relatively thin leather, the material is relatively inelastic, bend only with increased effort and absolutely impermeable to air. Also in its external appearance, it mainly corresponds to a rubber skin, which clearly shows off exposed bones or bulging curves of the body in a not always welcome manner to the outside.
Die
Nachteilig ist dabei, dass der Klebstoff insbesondere bei sehr dünnen Lederschichten oder dünnem Textilgewebe nicht nur in die Schichten eindringt sondern sie auch durchdringen kann und dann nach außen hin als optisch unschöner Fleck sichtbar ist. Wenn der nach außen hin durchgedrungene Klebstoff erhärtet, kann er harte Kanten ausbilden, welche beim Nutzer die unter seiner Lederbekleidung getragene weitere Kleidung beschädigen oder seine Haut verletzten können.The disadvantage here is that the adhesive penetrates not only in very thin leather layers or thin textile fabric not only in the layers but they can penetrate and then visible to the outside as a visually unattractive spot. When the adhesive that has penetrated outward hardens, it can form hard edges, which in the user under his leather clothing wear damaged clothing or injure his skin.
Wenn deshalb eine relativ weiche Klebstofftype gewählt wird, so ist die Verbindung zwischen Leder und elastischem Gewebe nicht sehr belastbar und kann sich daher frühzeitig lösen. Dann bilden sich in der Lederschicht an Punkten einer erhöhten Bewegung wieder hässliche Ausbeulungen in der Lederschicht aus.Therefore, if a relatively soft type of adhesive is chosen, the connection between leather and elastic fabric is not very durable and can therefore be solved early. Then, in the leather layer, at points of increased movement, ugly bulges are again formed in the leather layer.
Auf diesem Hintergrund hat sich die Erfindung die Aufgabe gestellt, ein Material für Lederbekleidung zu entwickeln, das ein gleichmäßiges Erscheinungsbild über seine Fläche hinweg bietet und das sehr elastisch ist und sich Körperformen wie Kniescheiben oder Ellbogen mit relativ sehr geringem Widerstand anpasst und das auch als sehr dünnes Material für eine leichte, sommerliche Bekleidung verwendbar ist.Against this background, the invention has taken on the task of developing a material for leather clothing, which provides a uniform appearance across its surface and which is very elastic and body shapes such as kneecaps or elbows adapts with relatively very little resistance and that as well thin material is suitable for light, summery clothing.
Als Lösung lehrt die Erfindung, siehe Anspruch 1, dass mehrere Nähte, die zueinander beabstandet sind, das Leder mit dem Elastikmaterial verbinden, wobei das textile Gewebe nur an den Nähten fest mit dem Leder verbunden ist und sich in den dazwischen liegenden Bereichen um einen geringen Betrag vom Leder entfernen kann.As a solution, the invention teaches, see claim 1, that a plurality of seams, which are spaced apart, connect the leather with the elastic material, wherein the textile fabric is only at the seams firmly connected to the leather and in the intermediate areas by a small Can remove amount from the leather.
Die Erfindung hebt sich also vom bisherigen Stand der Technik durch die gleichzeitige Verwendung der drei charakteristischen Merkmale "Falten" sowie "beabstandete Nähte" und "elastisches Gewebe" ab. Diese drei - für sich bereits bekannten - Merkmale bewirken durch ihre bisher unbekannte und erfinderische Zusammensetzung neue und bisher unbekannte Eigenschaften des erfundenen Verbundmaterials.The invention therefore stands out from the prior art by the simultaneous use of the three characteristic features "folds" and "spaced seams" and "elastic fabric" from. These three features, which are already known per se, bring about new and hitherto unknown properties of the invented composite material due to their hitherto unknown and inventive composition.
Ein erstes wesentliches Merkmal der Erfindung sind die homogen über die Lederfläche hinweg verteilten Falten. Sie sind in der Regel so klein, dass sie sich nicht mehr als drei bis vier Millimeter über die Fläche hinaus erheben, aber von ausreichender Größe, um sich bei extremer Zugbelastung ähnlich wie eine Ziehharmonika auseinander falten zu können, also eine zusätzliche Materialreserve zum Ausdehnen des Materials zu bilden. Dadurch wird an hoch belasteten Stellen - wie z. B. Knien oder Ellbogen - Material in Reserve gehalten, das bei Belastung eine relativ angenehme Ausdehnung des Materials ohne dessen irreversible Veränderung ermöglicht. Die Bildung von störenden "Beulen" wird damit also zumindest stark eingeschränkt, meist sogar eliminiert.A first essential feature of the invention is the wrinkles distributed homogeneously over the leather surface. They are usually so small that they do not rise more than three to four millimeters beyond the surface, but are of sufficient size to be able to unfold under extreme tensile load similar to a concertina, ie an additional material reserve for expanding the To form materials. This is at heavily loaded areas - such. B. knees or elbows - material held in reserve, which allows a relatively pleasant expansion of the material under load without its irreversible change. The formation of disturbing "bumps" is therefore at least severely restricted, usually even eliminated.
Zahlreiche kleinere, im Wesentlichen gleich ausgerichtete Falten sind auch als "gecrashtes Leder" bekannt. Sie entstehen z. B. durch seitliches Stauchen des Materials. Eine Möglichkeit zu dessen Herstellung ist das Einschieben des Leders zwischen zwei parallel zueinander ausgerichtete Metallflächen, deren Abstand so groß ist wie die maximal erwünschte Aufwölbung der Falten gegenüber den benachbarten Flächenteilen des Leders. In diese Tasche wird das Leder von einer Stirnkante her eingepresst, also gestaucht. Die dabei entstehenden Falten sind insbesondere dann sehr stabil, wenn das Leder gründlich angefeuchtet und während des Crashens erhitzt wird. Dabei sind Temperaturen bis zu 140 °C sinnvoll.Numerous smaller, substantially equally aligned pleats are also known as "crashed leather". They arise z. B. by lateral compression of the material. One possibility for its production is the insertion of the leather between two mutually parallel metal surfaces whose distance is as large as the maximum desired bulge of the folds against the adjacent surface parts of the leather. In this bag, the leather is pressed from a front edge ago, so compressed. The resulting wrinkles are very stable especially when the leather is thoroughly moistened and heated during the crash. Temperatures of up to 140 ° C make sense.
Das zweite, charakteristische Merkmal der Erfindung ist die Verbindung des Elastikmaterials mit dem Leder durch Nähte. Im Unterschied zu vielen anderen Methoden der Verbindung von Elastikmaterial und Leder hat eine Naht zahlreiche Vorteile. Die entstehende Verbindung ist dauerhaft und langzeitstabil und widersteht bei entsprechender Qualität des verbindenden Fadens auch chemischen Reinigungen und Feuchtigkeit sowie der Buttersäure des menschlichen Schweißes. Damit ist das Problem der Verklebung, durch chemische Reaktionen aus der Umwelt oder durch kontinuierlich reversierende Bewegungen nach relativ kurzer Zeit gelöst zu werden, eliminiert.The second characteristic feature of the invention is the connection of the elastic material with the leather through seams. In contrast to many other methods of combining elastic material and leather, a seam has many advantages. The resulting compound is durable and long-term stability and resists with the appropriate quality of the connecting thread also chemical cleaning and moisture and the butyric acid of human sweat. Thus, the problem of sticking, to be solved by chemical reactions from the environment or by continuously reversing movements after a relatively short time, eliminated.
Im Gegensatz zu punktförmigen Verbindungen - wie z. B. Nieten - ist die Verbindung mit einer Naht über eine Linie hinweg aufgeteilt, sodass die Belastung des Materials durch die zahlreichen Öffnungen zum Hindurchfädeln des Fadens nur eine sehr viel geringere Belastung auf die Kante des Leders ausübt. Außerdem sind durch die gleichmäßige Verteilung der Kräfte keine sternförmigen Falten zu beklagen.In contrast to punctiform connections - such. Riveting - the joint is split over a line with a seam so that the load on the material through the numerous thread-through holes only puts a much lower load on the edge of the leather. In addition, the uniform distribution of forces no star-shaped wrinkles to complain.
Wenn sich die linienförmigen Nähte kreuzen, werden eckige Abschnitte gebildet, innerhalb derer die Belastung des Materials gleichmäßig verteilt ist und innerhalb derer deshalb auch das optische Erscheinungsbild des Materials bei Belastung homogen über die Fläche verteilt ist. Ein zusätzlicher Vorteil ist, dass durch die Nähte und deren Erscheinungsbild als Linie auf der Lederoberfläche dem Designer der Kleidung ein weiterer gestalterischer Parameter angeboten wird.As the line seams intersect, angular sections are formed within which the load on the material is evenly distributed and within which, therefore, the visual appearance of the material is distributed homogeneously over the surface under load. An additional advantage is that the seams and their appearance as a line on the leather surface offers the clothing designer another design parameter.
Ein weiterer, ebenfalls nicht zu unterschätzender Vorteil der Anordnung sind die elastischen Fäden des textilen Elastikmaterials. Durch ihre große Anzahl wird die Belastung gleichmäßig auf die Nähte und auf die Lederfläche verteilt. Dadurch werden die Nähte gleichmäßig beansprucht, sodass das Risiko des Ausreißens der Naht reduziert ist.Another, not to be underestimated advantage of the arrangement are the elastic threads of the textile elastic material. By their large number of load is distributed evenly on the seams and on the leather surface. As a result, the seams are stressed evenly, so that the risk of tearing the seam is reduced.
Auch für die Einwirkung der Kleidung auf die menschliche Haut ist die gleichmäßige Kraftverteilung durch das Elastikmaterial ein Vorteil. Punktuelle Überlastungen wie z. B. bei Gummifäden werden vermieden.Also for the effect of the clothing on the human skin, the uniform distribution of force through the elastic material is an advantage. Selective overloads such. B. in rubber threads are avoided.
Ein weiterer Vorteil ist die Luftdurchlässigkeit des Gewebes. Da das textile Gewebe nur an den Nähten fest mit dem Leder verbunden ist, sich aber in den dazwischen liegenden Bereichen um einen geringen Betrag vom Leder entfernen kann, sammeln sich bei Bewegungen der tragenden Person Luftschichten zwischen dem Elastikmaterial und dem Leder, die dadurch für eine Ventilation sorgen und - z. B. bei relativ hoher Umgebungstemperatur - den Abtransport warmer und feuchter Luft unterstützen.Another advantage is the air permeability of the fabric. Since the textile fabric is firmly attached to the leather only at the seams, but can move in the intermediate areas by a small amount of leather, accumulate during movements of the wearer air layers between the elastic material and the leather, thereby characterized for a Provide ventilation and - z. B. at relatively high ambient temperature - support the removal of warm and humid air.
Durch die Verbindung dieser drei, vorteilhaften Merkmale kann das erfindungsgemäße Leder - Verbund - Material auch für sehr leichte und eng an dem Körper anliegende Oberbekleidung eingesetzt werden, wie z. B. für sommerliche Kostüme für Damen. Z. B. bei enger geschnittenen Röcken wirkt das Elastikmaterial wie eine Sicherheitsbremse, die ein Überschreiten der maximal zulässigen Streckgrenze des Ledermaterials vermeidet. Dadurch wird das Risiko der Rissbildung im Rock beim Aufstehen, beim Hinsetzen oder bei großen Schritten reduziert. Vorteilhaft ist auch, dass z. B. bei einer Kostümjacke an den Ellbogen die Ausbildung einer unvorteilhaften Beule reduziert oder eliminiert wird.By combining these three advantageous features, the leather composite material according to the invention can also be used for very light outer garment which fits snugly against the body, such as, for example, outerwear. B. for summer costumes for ladies. For example, with narrow-cut skirts the elastic material acts as a safety brake, which avoids exceeding the maximum allowable yield strength of the leather material. This reduces the risk of rock cracking when getting up, sitting down or taking big strides. It is also advantageous that z. B. in a costume jacket on the elbows the formation of a disadvantageous bump is reduced or eliminated.
Die Funktion des Elastikmaterials als Reißsicherung ermöglicht es deshalb, Leder von nur 0,25 - 0,5 mm Schichtstärke zu verwenden.The function of the elastic material as a tear protection therefore makes it possible to use leather of only 0.25-0.5 mm layer thickness.
In einer alternativen Ausführungsvariante kann der erfindungsgemäße Verbundwerkstoff jedoch auch durch eine dritte Schicht ergänzt werden, die als eine "Einlage" zwischen Elastikmaterial und Leder eingelegt, eingeklebt, eingenäht oder anderweitig befestigt werden kann. Diese Einlage kann z. B. eine zusätzliche Isolierschicht für winterliche Bekleidung sein. Eine andere Funktion ist die Versteifung von bestimmten Bereichen der Kleidung wie z. B. dem Endbereich von Ärmeln oder dem Revers einer Kostümjacke.In an alternative embodiment, however, the composite material according to the invention may also be supplemented by a third layer which can be inserted, glued, sewn or otherwise fastened as an "insert" between elastic material and leather. This deposit can z. B. be an additional insulating layer for winter clothing. Another function is the stiffening of certain areas of clothing such. B. the end of sleeves or the lapel of a costume jacket.
Die Einlage kann jedoch auch viele andere Funktionen ausführen. So ist es denkbar, ein Abstandsgewirke einzulegen, das eine Ventilation ermöglicht. Wenn im Kleidungsstück oder in dessen Nähe eine Kühleinrichtung oder eine Heizung angeordnet ist, so kann mit einem Luftstrom durch das Abstandsgewirke hindurch die Kleidung gekühlt oder erwärmt werden. Denkbar sind auch Einlagen, die mit Noppen oder anderen Abstandshaltern ausgerüstet sind und dadurch eine ähnliche Wirkung wie ein Abstandsgewirke haben.However, the insert can also perform many other functions. Thus, it is conceivable to insert a spacer knitted fabric which allows ventilation. If a cooling device or a heater is arranged in the garment or in its vicinity, the clothing can be cooled or heated with an air flow through the spacer fabric. Also conceivable are inserts that are equipped with knobs or other spacers and thus have a similar effect as a spacer knitted fabric.
Da ein Kleidungsstück in den meisten Fällen aus mehreren Zuschnitten besteht, die über eine Naht miteinander verbunden sind, ist es sinnvoll, diese Naht auch zur Verbindung der Lederstücke mit den Zuschnitten des Elastikmaterials zu nutzen. In einer Ausführungsvariante der Erfindung werden also zwei aneinandergrenzende Lederstücke mit zwei Stücken aus Elastikmaterial vernäht.Since a garment in most cases consists of several blanks, which are connected to each other via a seam, it makes sense to use this seam also for connecting the leather pieces with the blanks of the elastic material. In one embodiment of the invention, therefore, two adjoining pieces of leather are sewn with two pieces of elastic material.
Dazu können sich die Endbereiche der beiden aneinandergrenzenden Lederstücke ebenso überlappen wie die Endbereiche der beiden aneinandergrenzenden Zuschnitte des Elastikmaterials. Weil dabei jedoch ein Wulst im Material entsteht, der die doppelte Stärke des angrenzenden Verbundmaterials aufweist, schlägt die Erfindung vor, dass sich die Lederstücke im Bereich der Nähte nur an ihren Schnittkanten berühren. Oder - in einer anderen Formulierung - es werden die Lederstücke "auf Stoß" zusammengefügt. Da die Öffnungen im Randbereich der Lederstücke, durch die der Faden der Naht hindurchläuft, einen bestimmten Mindestabstand zur Schnittkante des Lederstückes aufweisen müssen, damit die Öffnung nicht ausreißt, ergibt sich, dass der Faden zwischen den beiden Öffnungen auf zwei benachbarten Lederstücken für eine deutlich sichtbare Länge an der Oberfläche des Leders entlang läuft.For this purpose, the end regions of the two adjoining leather pieces may overlap as well as the end regions of the two adjoining blanks of the elastic material. Because there However, a bead is formed in the material, which has twice the thickness of the adjacent composite material, the invention proposes that touch the leather pieces in the seams only at their cutting edges. Or - in another formulation - the pieces of leather are put together "on impact". Since the openings in the edge region of the leather pieces through which the thread of the seam passes must have a certain minimum distance from the cut edge of the piece of leather, so that the opening is not torn, it follows that the thread between the two openings on two adjacent pieces of leather for a clearly visible Length runs along the surface of the leather.
Für eine derartige Naht sind verschiedene Methoden des Vernähens denkbar. Interessant ist eine so genannte "Kürschnernaht", bei der der Faden spiralförmig durch die Öffnung in allen vier, miteinander zu vernähenden Stücken geführt wird. An der Oberfläche des Leders sind bei einer derartigen Naht zahlreiche kurze Abschnitte des Fadens zu sehen, die parallel zueinander und in einem stumpfen Winkel zur Schnittkante der Stücke verlaufen.For such a seam, various methods of sewing are conceivable. Interesting is a so-called "Skinning seam", in which the thread is spirally guided through the opening in all four, to be sewn together pieces. At the surface of the leather, in such a seam, numerous short sections of the thread are seen, which are parallel to each other and at an obtuse angle to the cut edge of the pieces.
Die Erfindung schlägt vor dass der Faden aus einem zumindest in Längsrichtung elastischen Material besteht, damit er bei Erreichen der Streckgrenze des Elastikmaterials als eine zusätzliche Sicherheitsreserve dienen kann. Daraus folgt, dass die Elastizität des Fadens so hoch sein sollte, dass bei Belastung zuerst das Elastikmaterial ausgedehnt wird und erst danach die Fäden, die die Nähte zur Verbindung der einzelnen Stücke miteinander bilden.The invention proposes that the thread consists of an at least longitudinally elastic material, so that it can serve as an additional safety reserve when reaching the yield point of the elastic material. It follows that the elasticity of the thread should be so high that under load first the elastic material is stretched and only then are the threads forming the seams for joining the individual pieces together.
Ein solcher Faden kann z.B. aus elastischem Polyester bestehen. In einer anderen Alternative ist er aus mehreren, für sich alleine kaum elastischen, einzelnen Fäden aufgebaut, die durch Knoten oder andere Verschlingungen eine Elastizität des gesamten Fadens in seiner Längsrichtung bewirken.Such a thread may for example consist of elastic polyester. In another alternative, he is made up of several, hardly alone elastic, individual threads constructed, which cause by knots or other entanglements elasticity of the entire thread in its longitudinal direction.
Wie bereits mehrfach erwähnt, ist es ein wesentliches Merkmal der Erfindung, dass das Leder "gecrasht" ist. Die Erfindung bevorzugt, dass alle Falten in der Oberfläche des Leder vorwiegend in eine etwa gleiche Richtung verlaufen. Eine derartige Variante ist in der
Es ist natürlich auch denkbar, dass Leder Falten aufweist, die in mehrere, von einander wesentlich verschiedene Richtungen weisen. So ist es z. B. interessant, dass die Falten vorwiegend nur in einer von zwei sich kreuzenden Richtung verlaufen. Dann ist das Leder in beiden Richtungen von gleicher Elastizität, die durch das vorübergehende "Auseinanderziehen" von diesen Falten bewirkt wird.Of course, it is also conceivable that leather has folds that point in several, substantially different directions. So it is z. B. interesting that the wrinkles are mainly only in one of two intersecting direction. Then the leather is of equal elasticity in both directions, caused by the temporary "pulling apart" of these folds.
Für diejenigen Teile einer Lederbekleidung, die den Rumpf oder die Beine oder die Arme ringförmig umgeben, ist es von Vorteil, dass die Falten in Längsrichtung des jeweiligen Körperteils verlaufen. Dadurch können die Falten bei einer Jacke z. B. das Atmen oder das Befüllen von Taschen der Jacke ausgleichen. Bei Hosenbeinen kann beim Abwinkeln der Beine die Vergrößerung des Umfangs im Bereich des Knies abgefangen werden. Bei Ärmeln wird die "Ausbeulung" im Bereich des Ellbogens beim Abwinkeln der Arme ausgeglichen. Selbst wenn die Lederbekleidung nicht auf eine feste Passform, also nicht auf einen möglichst geringen Abstand zwischen Lederbekleidung und Körperoberfläche ausgelegt ist, so kann diese mögliche Erweiterung der Abmessungen durch das Auseinanderziehen der Falten dennoch als sehr komfortabel empfunden werden.It is advantageous for those parts of a leather garment which surround the trunk or the legs or the arms in an annular manner that the folds extend in the longitudinal direction of the respective body part. This allows the wrinkles in a jacket z. B. compensate for breathing or filling pockets of the jacket. In the case of trouser legs, when bending the legs, the enlargement of the circumference in the area of the knee can be intercepted. For sleeves, the "bulge" in the area of the elbow is compensated when bending the arms. Even if the leather clothing is not on a tight fit, So is not designed for the smallest possible distance between leather clothing and body surface, so this possible extension of the dimensions by pulling apart the wrinkles can still be found to be very comfortable.
In einer weiteren Ausführungsvariante kann das Elastikmaterial auf seiner dem Körper zugewandten Seite mit einer die Gleitfähigkeit verbessernden Beschichtung versehen werden. Wenn das Ledermaterial z. B. für eine Kostümjacke oder für eine Hose eingesetzt wird, bei der längliche Bereiche wie die Ärmel oder die Hosenbeine über die entsprechenden Körperteile gestreift werden müssen, ist es von Vorteil wenn diese besonders gut auf dem Elastikmaterial gleiten, weil dadurch der stets als hinderlich empfundene Vorgang des Ankleidens und Auskleidens spürbar erleichtert wird.In a further embodiment, the elastic material may be provided on its body-facing side with a lubricity-improving coating. If the leather material z. B. is used for a costume jacket or trousers, in which elongated areas such as the sleeves or trouser legs must be striped over the corresponding body parts, it is advantageous if they slide particularly well on the elastic material, because thereby always perceived as a hindrance Process of dressing and lining is noticeably easier.
Im Folgenden sollen weitere Einzelheiten und Merkmale der Erfindung und eines Beispiels näher erläutert werden, dieses soll die Erfindung gemäß den Ansprüchen jedoch nicht einschränken, sondern nur erläutern. Es zeigt in schematischer Darstellung:
- Figur 1:
- Ausschnitt aus dem Nahtbereich einer erfindungsgemäßen Lederbekleidung in starker Vergrößerung.
- FIG. 1:
- Detail of the seam area of a leather clothing according to the invention in high magnification.
In
In der hier gezeigten, starken Vergrößerung ist der Faden (31), der die Naht (3) bildet, mit seinen über die Außenseite des Leders (1) hinausragenden Abschnitten als eine Aneinanderreihung von stark gekrümmten, etwa ringförmigen Elementen erkennbar. Im vorderen Bereich der
In
Das Elastikmaterial (2) ist im Querschnitt an seinen Stirnkanten durch Punktierung gekennzeichnet. Im Bereich der Naht (3) ist erkennbar, dass das Elastikmaterial in einem kleinen Wulst ausläuft. Dieser Wulst dient dazu, ein Auseinandergehen der Textilfäden zu verhindern, aus denen das Elastikmaterial (2) besteht.The elastic material (2) is characterized in cross section at its front edges by puncturing. In the area of the seam (3) it can be seen that the elastic material runs off in a small bead. This bead serves to prevent divergence of the textile threads that make up the elastic material (2).
In
- 11
- Lederleather
- 1111
- Falte im Leder 1Fold in leather 1
- 1212
- Lederstück aus Leder 1Leather piece of leather 1
- 22
-
Elastikmaterial, am Leder 1 mit Naht 3 befestigtElastic material, attached to leather 1 with
seam 3 - 33
-
Naht zur Verbindung von Leder 1 und Elastikmaterial 2Seam for joining leather 1 and
elastic material 2 - 3131
-
Faden der Naht 3Thread of the
seam 3
Claims (13)
- Leather clothing, comprising- an outer layer of leather (1), which is connected to- an inner layer of elastic material (2), which is a textile fabric
wherein the leather (1) is provided with folds (11) throughout over the predominant portion of its surface, which are distributed approximately regularly over the surface,
the leather clothing consists of an outer layer of leather (1) and is characterised in that a plurality of seams, which are spaced from another, connect the leather (1) to the elastic material (2), wherein the textile fabric (2) is firmly connected to the leather only at the seams, and can distance itself from the leather by a small amount in the regions lying in between, and in that the leather (1) is composed of at least 2 leather portions (12) and the leather portions (12), in the region of the seams (3), only contact one another at the cut edges, the threads (31) consisting of an elastic material at least in the longitudinal direction. - Leather clothing according to one of the preceding claims, characterised in that a third layer is inserted or bonded in or sewn in or otherwise fastened between the elastic material (2) and leather (1) as "inlay".
- Leather clothing according to one of the preceding claims, characterised in that the leather (1) is composed of at least two leather portions (12), which are connected to one another with the same seams (2) with which the elastic material (2) is also connected to the leather (1).
- Leather clothing according to one of the preceding claims, characterised in that the seam (3) consists of a thread (31), which runs in a spiral form through the materials (1, 2) which are to be connected.
- Leather clothing according to one of the preceding claims, characterised in that the thread consists of a material that is elastic at least in the longitudinal direction, so that it can serve as an additional safety reserve if the elastic limit of the elastic material is reached.
- Leather clothing according to one of the preceding claims, characterised in that the thread (31) is built up of elastic polyester or of a plurality of individual threads that are hardly elastic and achieve elasticity in the longitudinal direction by means of knots or other loops.
- Leather clothing according to one of the preceding claims, characterised in that the folds (11) run predominantly in approximately the same direction.
- Leather clothing according to one of the preceding claims, characterised in that the folds (11) run predominantly in one of two mutually crossing directions.
- Leather clothing according to one of the preceding claims, characterised in that it surrounds body parts such as the torso or legs or arms in an annular manner and in that the folds (11) run in the longitudinal direction of the body part.
- Leather clothing according to one of the preceding claims, characterised in that the elastic material (2), on that side that faces the body, is provided with a coating that improves its slip property.
- Leather clothing according to one of the preceding claims, characterised in that the leather (1) has a thickness of approximately 0.25 mm to 0.5 mm.
- Method for producing a leather clothing according to one of the preceding claims, characterised in that- in the first step, leather (1) is provided with folds (11), for example by compression in the direction of the surface of the leather (1) approximately transversely to the folds (11) and- in the second step, leather portions (12) are cut to size from the leather (1) and equally sized portions of the elastic material (2) are cut to size and
in the third step, the leather portions (12) and the portions of the elastic material (2) are laid congruously one on the other and the leather portions (12) and the portions of the elastic material (2) are in contact with one another at their end edges and- in the fourth step, all portions (12, 2) are stitched together by means of a thread (31), which forms a seam (3). - Method according to Claim 13, characterised in that, in the first step, in addition to compression, the leather (1) is additionally heated, for example to temperatures up to about 140°C.
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
DE102010032121A DE102010032121A1 (en) | 2010-07-24 | 2010-07-24 | Elastic leather clothing |
PCT/DE2010/001192 WO2012013172A1 (en) | 2010-07-24 | 2010-10-08 | Elastic leather clothing |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
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EP2595499A1 EP2595499A1 (en) | 2013-05-29 |
EP2595499B1 true EP2595499B1 (en) | 2015-07-01 |
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Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
EP10794856.4A Active EP2595499B1 (en) | 2010-07-24 | 2010-10-08 | Elastic leather clothing |
Country Status (7)
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US (1) | US20130191968A1 (en) |
EP (1) | EP2595499B1 (en) |
CN (1) | CN103118559B (en) |
DE (2) | DE102010032121A1 (en) |
ES (1) | ES2548057T3 (en) |
RU (1) | RU2536624C2 (en) |
WO (1) | WO2012013172A1 (en) |
Families Citing this family (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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CN105919179B (en) * | 2016-05-11 | 2017-06-16 | 浙江诺之股份有限公司 | Fur clothing sewing tech |
CN112223864A (en) * | 2019-07-14 | 2021-01-15 | 北京服装学院 | Foldable leather fabric |
RU2705148C1 (en) * | 2019-08-29 | 2019-11-05 | Константин Эдуардович Разумеев | Method of making articles from fur |
Family Cites Families (15)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US1806673A (en) * | 1931-05-26 | Boot ob shoe and method oxi making sake | ||
US1606900A (en) * | 1925-12-18 | 1926-11-16 | Rockwood A Waldo | Corrugated trimming and process of making same |
US2059747A (en) * | 1936-02-19 | 1936-11-03 | Us Rubber Prod Inc | Elastic multi-ply material and elastic shoe embodying the same |
US2122251A (en) * | 1937-11-18 | 1938-06-28 | Hartmann Inc | Method of securing decorative effects on leather or similar goods |
US2318497A (en) * | 1941-09-25 | 1943-05-04 | Charles I Rockmore Inc | Plaited material and method of making the same |
GB797523A (en) * | 1953-12-24 | 1958-07-02 | American Viscose Corp | Composite laminated sheet materials |
US3846844A (en) * | 1973-07-18 | 1974-11-12 | Ben Kahn Furs Corp | Reversible fur garment |
US5014636A (en) * | 1989-05-11 | 1991-05-14 | Mcguire- Nicholas Company, Inc. | Composite padded fabric material and edge binding system |
DD297764A5 (en) * | 1990-01-24 | 1992-01-23 | Kroker,Angelika,De | GENERAL LENS STRETCHING OF LEATHER FOR PROCESSING AND CLOTHING APPLICATIONS BY INTRODUCING RUBBER LEVELS OR FAIRS IN / UNDER THE LEATHER |
KR0131424B1 (en) * | 1994-09-27 | 1998-04-16 | 이중호 | Fur goods and the manufacturing method thereof |
US6627564B1 (en) * | 2000-08-31 | 2003-09-30 | Kimberly-Clark Worldwide, Inc. | Composite elastic in one direction and extensible in another direction |
JP4648570B2 (en) * | 2001-05-21 | 2011-03-09 | 剛氏有限公司 | Fur fabric and products using it |
WO2006082857A1 (en) * | 2005-02-02 | 2006-08-10 | Shiborian Co., Ltd. | Method of leather processing and leather of three-dimensional shape |
DE202006016727U1 (en) * | 2006-10-19 | 2007-03-01 | MÜLLER, Tanja | Trousers, e.g. breeches in jeans shape for riding sports, has side seams which are present in jeans section at inner side of leg of person wearing trouser |
CN101348024A (en) * | 2008-06-03 | 2009-01-21 | 珠海港丽鞋业有限公司 | Real leather or leather processing technology |
-
2010
- 2010-07-24 DE DE102010032121A patent/DE102010032121A1/en not_active Withdrawn
- 2010-10-08 RU RU2013102546/12A patent/RU2536624C2/en not_active IP Right Cessation
- 2010-10-08 EP EP10794856.4A patent/EP2595499B1/en active Active
- 2010-10-08 ES ES10794856.4T patent/ES2548057T3/en active Active
- 2010-10-08 US US13/812,008 patent/US20130191968A1/en not_active Abandoned
- 2010-10-08 WO PCT/DE2010/001192 patent/WO2012013172A1/en active Application Filing
- 2010-10-08 DE DE112010005766T patent/DE112010005766A5/en not_active Withdrawn
- 2010-10-08 CN CN201080069215.9A patent/CN103118559B/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
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RU2536624C2 (en) | 2014-12-27 |
ES2548057T3 (en) | 2015-10-13 |
EP2595499A1 (en) | 2013-05-29 |
WO2012013172A1 (en) | 2012-02-02 |
DE112010005766A5 (en) | 2013-05-08 |
CN103118559A (en) | 2013-05-22 |
DE102010032121A1 (en) | 2012-01-26 |
RU2013102546A (en) | 2014-08-27 |
CN103118559B (en) | 2015-08-05 |
US20130191968A1 (en) | 2013-08-01 |
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