CN103118559B

CN103118559B - Elastic leather dress material

Info

Publication number: CN103118559B
Application number: CN201080069215.9A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 克里斯廷·贝克-韦伯
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 2010-07-24
Filing date: 2010-10-08
Publication date: 2015-08-05
Anticipated expiration: 2030-10-08
Also published as: US20130191968A1; WO2012013172A1; DE112010005766A5; DE102010032121A1; EP2595499B1; EP2595499A1; RU2536624C2; ES2548057T3; CN103118559A; RU2013102546A

Abstract

The present invention relates to leather dress material, described leather dress material comprises: the exterior layer be made up of leather (1), described exterior layer is connected to the interior layer be made up of elastomeric material (2), wherein said leather is provided with scrimp (11) in most parts of the surf zone of described leather, wherein said scrimp is distributed on described surf zone roughly regularly, and by means of multiple seam, described leather is connected to described elastomeric material, described multiple seam is spaced apart from each other and described elastomeric material is yarn fabric.

Description

Elastic leather dress material

Technical field

The present invention relates to leather dress material, this leather dress material comprises an exterior layer be made up of leather, and this exterior layer is connected to an interior layer be made up of elastomeric material.

Background technology

It is very remote that the mankind use animal fur to be used as the history of dress material.In the prior art, knownly use multiple method to be taken off from animal by skin with it, remove the lint (fleece) on skin or hair (fur), and carry out tanning to Animal Skin, these methods relate to many steps.If only use leather to be used as the material of coat, so, this leather just must have the thickness of at least 1mm, just can reach enough tear resistances (tear resistance).Shortcoming is that like this dress material seems relatively heavy and elasticity is relatively low, such as, be exactly like this at knee and ancon.

For improving the elasticity of leather, describing in Deutsche Bundespatent D297764 and leather is connected to rubber filament (rubberfilament) or rubber surface (rubber surface).The method carrying out elastomeric material and leather to engage (bonding) is it is mentioned that in this literary composition.

The defect of the composite of gained is according to this, owing to employing rubber layer and binder (adhesive), so this composite has relatively heavier weight, and this material there will be relatively high tear resistance (resistance) being clothed in the process in figure (body shape), like this, the comfort level of wearer reduces.

Other limiting factor also has, and rubber surface is completely air-locked (absolutely air impermeable), therefore there will be the phenomenon (sweating) of sealing perspiration.Therefore, in practice, only add the additional layer that can be provided to the air supply of rare limit to health, this material could be used.Therefore, if want to use this material to be used as lightweight dress material (such as, in summer clothing), so this is impracticable in principle.

If known so far " elastic leather (elastic leather) " is made up of the material of lighter in weight to a certain extent, so this material there will be the wrinkle (wrinkle) and bulge (bag) that are most unseemly.If use relatively thick rubber surface layer and relatively very thin leather, so the elasticity of this material can reduce relatively, needs could bend by larger power, and completely airtight.Only with regard to its outward appearance, that main manifestations goes out is rubber peel (rubber skin), therefore, externally, the male portion (protruding body curve) being easy to osseous part (exposed bones) or the figure curve exposed is visible, and such visual effect is that people want scarcely.

Summary of the invention

Compared with prior art, target of the present invention is a kind of material that can be used as leather dress material of preparation, this material can provide homogeneous outward appearance in its surface, and it is very flexible, after being clothed in the such as figure such as knee or ancon, tear resistance is still relatively low, and can very thin material be used as, carry out the summer clothing for lighter in weight.

As solution, the present invention proposes, this leather is provided with scrimp (fold) in the major part on its surface, these scrimps can distribute on a surface regularly, and it is spaced apart by multiple seam (seam), this leather can join on this elastomeric material by these seams, and this elastomeric material is yarn fabric (textile fabric).

Therefore, difference with the prior art of the present invention is, employs three kinds of features simultaneously, " scrimp ", " seam be spaced " and " elastic fabrics ".

By still belonging to unknown to these three kinds of bases so far with regard to known feature and having the combination of invention, according to the present invention, these three kinds of features can make this composite have new and still belong to unknown character so far.

First essential characteristic of the present invention is equally distributed scrimp on leather surface.On the whole, these scrimps seem very little, they exceed only three to four millimeters at most, surface, but on the other hand, these scrimps are enough large, can carry out folding and stretching as accordion when extreme tractive load (tensile loading), that is, extra margin of safety (safety margin) can be provided for the stretching, extension of this material.Therefore, at the some place (such as knee or ancon) that load is higher, material is stored away in advance, and like this, when there is load, this material just can make material to stretch to relative comfort, and irreversible change can not occur.Therefore, at least greatly can limit the formation of clumsy " bulge ", even can eliminate this type of phenomenon in most instances.

A large amount of relatively little scrimps is also referred to as " line splits formula leather (crushed leather) ", and these scrimps are oriented as equidirectional in principle.For example, these scrimps can be produced by carrying out transverse compression to this material.A kind of possible method producing scrimp is, be inserted into by this leather and be oriented as between two metal surfaces parallel to each other, the distance between these two metal surfaces equals maximum the wanted radius of curvature of these scrimps relative to the adjoining planar segment of this leather.Then, this leather is pressed into the enclosure space (pocket) formed thus from a transverse edge, that is, this leather compressed.Split (crushing) period at line, if this leather complete wetting (moistened) can be heated, so the scrimp of gained will be especially very stable.Preference temperature is the highest can up to 140 DEG C.

Second feature feature of the present invention is joined on this leather by this elastomeric material by means of seam.Different from many additive methods elastomeric material and leather are bonded together, seam has multiple advantage.The connection durable of gained, and if the quality of connection suture (connecting thread) is properly, this connection can also resist the corrosiveness of the butyric acid in dry-cleaning, humidity and people's sweat.From under the chemical reaction of environment or the effect of continuously motion back and forth, after the relatively short time, joint can fluff, and now, this problem is eliminated.

Compared with engaging (spot bond) with the point such as rivet, the seam point-blank distributed engages and can make under the effect of the large metering pin mouth (opening) of arranging with suture, and very low load only can be applied to the edge of this leather by the load being applied to this material.In addition, because distribution of forces is homogeneous, so there will not be the star scrimp (star-shaped fold) allowing people denounce.

If these lenticular seams (lenticular seam) intersect each other, angled section will be formed, in these angled sections, the homogeneous distribution of load of this material, therefore, in these angled sections, the visual appearance of this material is equally distributed at this on the surface, even if be also like this in loaded situation.Extra advantage also comprises, because these seams and outward appearance thereof linearly distribute on leather surface, therefore, for designer provides another design parameter.

The further advantage of this layout is the use of the elastic filament (elastic filament) be made up of textile elastomeric material (textile elastic material), and this advantage should not be underestimated.Because elastic filament quantity is comparatively large, therefore, load can be distributed in these seams equably, and is distributed on leather surface.Therefore, the load that these seams are subject to is homogeneous, which reduces the risk that seam is torn.

And for this dress material for the impact of human body skin, it is an advantage that the homogeneous power provided by elastomeric material distributes.Avoid the some portion's overload (spot overload) such as occurred when rubber filament.

Further advantage also has the gas permeability (air permeability) of this yarn fabric.Because this yarn fabric is only connected to this leather securely at these seam crossings, then a small amount of yarn fabric can be removed from leather in region between seam, therefore, the air layer formed between elastomeric material is (when wearer movement, and such as, when temperature is relatively high) contribute to the air removing hot humid.

Due to the combination of these three kinds of advantageous characteristics, can also for the manufacture of the coat next to the skin of very light in weight according to leather composite material of the present invention, such as summer women's dress.For example, in the example cutting out skirt (skirt) relatively next to the skin, this elastomeric material can play the effect of margin of safety, and maximum permission theing avoid exceeding leather substance stretches limit (themaximum permissible stretching limit).Thus, decrease standing, sit down or large profound step time the skirt risk that is torn.Advantage also comprises, and such as, when jacket fills, reduce or eliminates the formation in the defective bulge in ancon place.

Therefore, the anti-tear function that this elastomeric material has allows to use thickness to be only the leather of 0.25mm to 0.5mm.

But, in an alternate embodiment, a third layer can also be supplemented with according to composite of the present invention, this third layer can be inserted as " insert layer (inlay) ", engage into, sews up or is otherwise fastened between this elastomeric material and leather.For example, this insert layer can as the thermal insulation layer of the interpolation in winter dress (insulation layer).Another function of this insert layer is that the specific region in clothes is become stiffening (stiffening), such as cuff area or the jacket dress back side.

But this insert layer can also perform other functions many.Thus, it is contemplated that insertion scrim wall (spacer scrim), realize ventilating.If a cooling component or heater are placed in clothes or around these clothes, can be undertaken lowering the temperature or heating by the air-flow formed by this scrim wall.It is also conceivable that these insert layers can possess node (nub) or other septs, and and then there is the effect being similar to scrim wall.

Because clothes are made up of the multiple dress material blocks (blank) connected each other by seam in majority of case, so using this seam that leather sheet (leather piece) is connected to the dress material block of this elastomeric material, is suitable.In an alternate embodiment of the present invention, two adjacent leather parts are sewn to the part of two elastomeric materials.

For reaching this object, the stub area of two adjacent leather parts can be overlapping, and overlapping mode is identical with the overlap mode of the stub area of two adjacent dress material blocks of this elastomeric material.But occurred within this material thus protruding (bead), the thickness of this projection doubles adjacent composite, so the present invention advises, as an alternate embodiment, the leather part in seam region only need contact with each other at its cutting edge place.Or, alternatively, be exactly by these leather parts " docking (butt jointed) " together.Because the pin mouth in the fringe region of these leather parts (suture of seam passes wherein) must have the certain minimal distance of the cutting edge at a distance of this leather part, can not split to make this pin mouth, so, between two pin mouths on two adjacent leather parts, the length of the suture that the surface along this leather extends is high-visible.

For this type of seam, it is contemplated that various method of sewing.What is interesting is, can use so-called " gloves sew up (glover ' s stitch) ", wherein suture is all in a spiral manner through pin mouth in all four parts, sews up each other.On the surface of leather, by using this type of to sew up, can see a large amount of short section (short section) of this suture, these short sections extend parallel to each other, and become obtuse angle with the cutting edge of these parts.

It is considered herein that, preferably, this suture is made up of elastomeric material at least in a longitudinal direction, and make when reaching the elastic limit of this elastomeric material, this suture can serve as extra margin of safety.Therefore, the elasticity of this suture should be enough high, and make once meet with load, first elastomeric material stretches, and is then only suture, and these sutures define seam various piece be connected to each other just.

For example, this type of suture can be made up of elastic polyester.In another alternative, this suture itself is possessed flexible single suture hardly formed by multiple, and these single sutures realize the elasticity of overall suture in their longitudinal direction by means of knotting (knot) or other loops (loop).

As mentioned time and again above, notable feature of the present invention is this leather is " line splits ".It is considered herein that, preferably, all scrimps in the surface of this leather mainly extend in roughly the same direction.Figure 1 shows that this type of variant.When only compressing from a single cutting edge this leather, this configuration can be there is.Only line splits had advantage to this type of leather is in one direction only have specific high resiliency in one direction.In every other direction, the elasticity of this leather itself is decided by this material.

Naturally, it is also conceivable that the scrimp that this leather has is oriented as multiple different directions from each other substantially.For example, ironically, extend in the main direction only in two cross one another directions of these scrimps.In the case, this leather has identical elasticity in both direction, and this can realize by temporarily " being pulled open (draw apart) " by these scrimps.

For those parts in an annular manner around trunk or leg or both arms in fur clothing, these scrimps extend and have superiority in the longitudinal direction of corresponding body part.By using the method, the scrimp on jacket can compensate, the heaving or fill (breathing or filling of pockets) of such as pocket.For trouser legs, when leg curvature, can be compensated in the amplification of the peripheral rim portion of knee.When sleeve, " bulge (bagginess) " that occur at ancon when both arms bend can be compensated.If even if fur clothing is not (the fixed fit) that will be designed to close-fitting formula, that is, do not prepare to be designed to possible minimum range between fur clothing and body surface, because these scrimps can pull open, dimensionally can tensible people still can be allowed to feel comfortably cool.

In an other embodiment, this elastomeric material can be arranged on that side of body-facing, and scribble coating to improve slip (slip).If employ this leather substance, such as in jacket dress or trousers, use this leather substance, and such as sleeve or trouser legs isometric tubular region must slip over corresponding body part in these clothes, so, if effectively can slide especially in these long tubular regions on this elastomeric material, will have superiority, because can expect, the process put on or take off is able to facility, although it is generally acknowledged that this process is difficult.

Accompanying drawing explanation

Hereafter reference example can explain more details of the present invention and feature in more detail.This explanation is not to limit the present invention, and is only to explain the present invention.In the diagram:

Fig. 1: Figure 1 shows that the section according to the special amplification of seam region in leather dress material of the present invention.

Detailed description of the invention

In FIG, from the seam region of leather dress material, cut a part so that diagram, and this part is amplified especially.This figure is depicted as perspective view.At cutting edge place, can the exterior layer of leather (1) be regarded as upper layer.In this surface and at this cutting edge place, clearly can recognize multiple scrimp (11).These scrimps (11) are bent upwards, and are similar to the gable top in house, define sharp edge upward.Can find out, this edge be an illustrative clarity in the train of thought (network) of this leather (1) run through line, this train of thought similarly is a train of thought of being piled up by particle shape thing in this example.Can derive a fact from the size of the seam (3) at picture center, these scrimps only have low height relative to the general surface of leather (1).In amplifier section shown herein, can find out, suture (31) is the element of very large, the similar annular of a row degree of crook, and suture (31) defines seam (3), wherein suture (3) section projection and exceed the outside of leather (1).In front area in FIG, can clearly find out, the part upwardly of suture (31) how to continue to extend in the inner side of elastomeric material (2).

In FIG, can also clearly find out, suture (31) continues through the upper layer of leather (1), specifically through left side leather part (12) and right side leather part (12).Then, suture (31) further extends through those sections of the elastomeric material (2) being positioned at each leather part (12) bottom.

In cross section, elastomeric material (2) can be recognized by the dotted line at its edge surface place.In the region of seam (3), can find out, the end of this elastomeric material is a little projection.This projection can prevent the textile fabric be made up of elastomeric material (2) from ftractureing.

In FIG, at this cutting edge place, can clearly find out, the area with the surface of particle shape pattern of leather (1) is greater than the area of the layer of the elastomeric material (2) being placed in this lower face.If this elastomeric material (2) stretches in its plane, so, can clearly find out from Fig. 1, the leather layer occupy on this elastomeric material has also stretched, and, in this case, the leather layer be not only in picture in FIG in the heart stretches, and is just connected in the leather layer (not shown) that the seam crossing that is parallel to each other connects and has also stretched.By using the method, scrimp that be similar to roof, that be upwards cusp configuration is opened, and first leather is stretched, and without the need to applying further strain to internal structure, because the fact is, these scrimps " are evened up (pull smooth) ".

Fig. 1 clearly illustrate very much at leather towards in the surface of outside, scrimp (11) does not need to extend in the mode of perfect parallelism over the entire length, but only needs to be oriented to almost parallel, and only needs to have limited length.

List of reference characters

1 leather

11 scrimps in leather 1

Leather part in 12 leathers 1

2 are fastened on the elastomeric material on leather 1 by seam 3

3 seams for leather 1 and elastomeric material 2 are bonded together

Suture in 31 seams 3

Claims

1. a leather dress material, comprises:

The exterior layer be made up of leather (1), described exterior layer is connected to;

The inner side be made up of elastomeric material (2),

Described leather (1) possesses scrimp (11), and described scrimp (11) is in the major part on the surface at described leather, and described scrimp (11) distributes on said surface roughly regularly, and

By means of the multiple seams (3) be spaced apart from each other, described leather (1) is connected to described elastomeric material (2), and described elastomeric material is yarn fabric, it is characterized in that,

Described seam (3) is made up of suture (31), and described suture (31) is in a spiral form through the material (1,2) that will connect;

Described suture (31) forms by having flexible material at least in a longitudinal direction.

2. leather dress material according to claim 1, is characterized in that, a third layer is inserted as " insert layer " or engages or sew up, or being otherwise fastened between described elastomeric material (2) and leather (1).

3. the leather dress material according to the claim of in aforementioned claim, it is characterized in that, described leather (1) is made up of at least two leather parts (12), described at least two leather parts (12) are connected to each other by identical seam (3), by described seam (3), described elastomeric material (2) is also connected to described leather (1).

4. leather dress material according to claim 3, is characterized in that, in the region of described seam (3), described leather part (12) only contacts with each other at its cutting edge place.

5. the leather dress material according to a claim in aforementioned claim 1,2,4, it is characterized in that, described suture (31) is made up of elastic polyester, or be made up of many single sutures, described many single sutures have hardly elasticity but by means of knotting or other loops reach elasticity in a longitudinal direction.

6. according to aforementioned leather dress material according to claim 3, it is characterized in that, described suture (31) is made up of elastic polyester, or is made up of many single sutures, described many single sutures have hardly elasticity but by means of knotting or other loops reach elasticity in a longitudinal direction.

7. according to aforementioned leather dress material according to claim 5, it is characterized in that, described scrimp (11) mainly extends in roughly the same direction.

8. according to aforementioned leather dress material according to claim 5, it is characterized in that, described scrimp (11) extends in a main direction in two cross one another directions.

9. according to aforementioned leather dress material according to claim 5, it is characterized in that, described leather dress material is in an annular manner around trunk or the body part such as leg or arm, and described scrimp (11) extends in the longitudinal direction of described body part.

10. the leather dress material according to the claim of in aforementioned claim 6-9, it is characterized in that, that side of body-facing arranges described elastomeric material (2), and the upper painting of described elastomeric material (2) is improved the coating of the sliding property of described elastomeric material (2).

11. leather dress materials according to the claim of in aforementioned claim 6-9, it is characterized in that, the thickness that described leather (1) has is roughly 0.25 mm to 0.5 mm.

12. 1 kinds, for the preparation of the method for the leather dress material according to the claim of in aforementioned claim, is characterized in that:

The first step, arranges scrimp (11) in leather (1), such as, by compressing in direction roughly vertical with described scrimp (11) in the surface of described leather (1), and

Second step, excises leather part (12), and excises equal-sized part in described elastomeric material (2) from described leather (1), and

3rd step, is stacked together consistent with each other for the described part of described leather part (12) and described elastomeric material (2), and the described part of described leather part (12) and described elastomeric material (2) is contacted with each other at its terminal surface place, and

4th step, is stitched together all parts (12,2) by means of suture (31), and then forms seam (3).

13. methods according to claim 11, is characterized in that, in the described first step, in addition to compression, also additionally heat described leather (1), such as, are heated to the temperature being up to about 140 DEG C.