KR100375245B1 - A warp knitting fabric having an excellent wash fastness and light fastness, and a process of preparing the same - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a warp knit having excellent washing and daylight fastness and a method of manufacturing the same. Specifically, the warp knitted fabric of the present invention has a three-layered warp knitted fabric in which an intermediate structure made of spandex elastic yarn is placed between a surface tissue made of ultrafine yarn and a back tissue made of high shrinkable yarn or synthetic fiber yarn, wherein the ultrafine yarn is made of carbon black, It contains a primary component selected from the group consisting of pigments and dyes, characterized in that the wash fastness is at least 3 grade, daylight fastness is at least 5 grade. In addition, the manufacturing method of the present invention is characterized in that for the preparation of the warp knitted paper, the island-in-the-sea composite fiber containing a carbonaceous component such as carbon black in the fiber-forming component as a surface tissue yarn. The warp knitted fabric of the present invention is mainly used in the manufacture of artificial leather and women's clothing.

Description

A warp knitting fabric having an excellent wash fastness and light fastness, and a process of preparing the same}

The present invention relates to a warp knit having excellent washing and daylight fastness and a method of manufacturing the same.

As the fiber becomes thinner, the bending stiffness is lowered, so that the forge made of the ultrafine fiber has the advantage of having a very soft touch. In addition, the development of ultra-fine technology of synthetic fibers has been the motive for greatly improving the merchandise of clothing-sensitive materials.

In general, the production method of ultra-fine fibers can be classified into three types: direct spinning, two-component split spinning, and two-component eluted spinning. The fineness of the ultrafine fibers manufacturable by the direct spinning method is 0.3-0.5 denier, and the fineness of the ultrafine fibers manufacturable by the two-component split spinning method is 0.2 denier, whereas the fineness of the ultrafine fibers manufacturable by the two-component elution spinning method is 0.001. Even denier levels can be produced.

Commercialization using such ultra-fine fibers is progressing in various ways in the textile sector, but in the knitting sector, especially in the warp knitting sector, due to various shortcomings generated during canon and post-processing, the commercialization is not progressed.

Specifically, when the ultra-fine fibers of 0.3 ~ 0.5 denier level manufactured by the direct spinning method are applied to warp knitted fabrics, since many filaments are dispersed, the warp and weaving properties are very poor, and the specific surface area of the yarn is increased, raising the There is a problem that the fairness is poor, the napped state of the warp knitted paper produced is uneven and appearance is also poor.

On the other hand, when the ultra-denier fiber of 0.2 denier level manufactured by the two-component split type composite spinning method composed of nylon / polyester is applied to warp knitted fabric, due to the incompatibility of nylon and polyester, Nylon and polyester are segregated, resulting in poor hardness and weaving, and poor brushing. Uneven appearance of the warp knitted fabric produced is poor appearance. In addition, since nylon and polyester are mixed, dyeing is difficult and color fastness is reduced.

On the other hand, when warp knitted fabrics are prepared using an island-in-the-sea composite fiber having a level of 0.001 to 0.3 denier prepared using a two-component eluting spinning method using an alkali-soluble copolyester as a sea component and a regular polyester as a island component. In the warp, brushing and knitting properties are excellent, but there is a problem of low washing fastness and daylight fastness of warp knitted fabrics due to the poor dyeing characteristics peculiar to polyester (doe).

In order to overcome the problems described above, an object of the present invention may include a surface component yarn or a surface tissue yarn and a backside yarn in order to omit the dyeing process, and the daylight fastness and washing of the warp knitted fabric It is to greatly increase the fastness.

An object of the present invention is to provide a warp knitted paper having excellent processability, such as a canon and a woven fabric, and excellent washing and daylight fastness, and a manufacturing method thereof.

The present invention relates to a warp knitted fabric having excellent washing fastness and daylight fastness, wherein the intermediate knitted fabric of spandex elastic yarn is positioned between the surface tissue made of ultra-fine yarn and the back tissue made of high shrinkable yarn or synthetic fiber yarn. In the ultra-microfiber yarn containing a raw material selected from the group consisting of carbon black, pigments and dyes, it is characterized by a wash fastness of at least three grades, and a daylight fastness of at least five grades.

In addition, the present invention is the island-in-the-sea composite fiber having a single yarn fineness of 0.001 ~ 0.3 denier after elution component as a surface tissue yarn, a Standex elastic yarn as an intermediate tissue yarn, a highly shrinkable yarn having a single yarn fineness of 1 to 5 denier is a back tissue yarn In the manufacture of warp knitted paper by using each of the following methods, the surface tissue yarns are prepared with a carbonaceous material, carbon black, pigments and dyes. It is characterized by using an island-in-the-sea composite fiber composed of a fiber-forming component containing ˜15% by weight and an soluble eluting component.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

First, the present invention is the surface tissue yarn of warp knitted paper is an ultra-fine yarn containing an original component selected from the group consisting of carbon black, pigments and dyes and single yarn fineness of 0.01 ~ 0.3 denier. The ultra-fine yarn is a polyester having a fiber-forming component containing an original component, and using a two-component eluting composite fiber having an eluting component as a water-soluble polymer as a surface tissue yarn to knit a warp knitted fabric, and then the eluting component in a post-processing process. It is formed by the method of eluting. In other words, in order to improve processability, the two-component eluting composite fiber is used as a surface tissue yarn, and the eluted component is eluted after being polished, chopped, and brushed.

As the water-soluble polymer, it is most preferable to use a copolyester having a very good alkali dissolution rate. As a specific example, (i) a co-polyester copolymerized with an ester unit containing a metal sulfonate in an ester unit of ethylene terephthalic acid, which is a main functional part, and (ii) a polymer obtained by blending a polyethylene glycol having a number average molecular weight of 8,000 or more. It is good to use. Moreover, water-soluble polyvinyl alcohol, polystyrene, etc. can also be used as a usable polymer. However, if polystyrene is used, there is a disadvantage that an environmental pollution problem occurs due to the solvent used during elution.

In particular, the present invention is characterized in that the raw material is added to and contained in the fiber-forming component during spinning in order to improve the wash fastness and the light fastness of the warp knitted paper. At least one component in the group is used. When carbon black is used alone, the ultrafine yarn (coated component) has a black color. If a color other than black is used as the ultrafine yarn color, a pigment or dye type may be appropriately selected.

For example, as a dye, Papyron Yellow S-4G, Papyrion Red SG, Papyriion Blue S-GL, etc., which are solvent dyes (Eastwell Co., Ltd.) can be used. Heliogen Blue D 7030, Pariogen Red L 3885, and Paris Ortho Yellow D 1819 can be used. When the pigment or dyes of these three primary colors are properly combined and used, a desired color can be obtained. In addition, by adjusting the content of the carbon black in the island component to 5% by weight or less can be prepared light gray color (Grey).

The content of the primary component is 0.1 to 15% by weight based on the weight of the fiber-forming component (ultra microfiber). When the content of the original component is less than 0.1% by weight, the washing and light fastness enhancing effect is insignificant, and when it exceeds 15% by weight, the radioactivity is lowered.

On the other hand, it is preferable that the single yarn fineness of surface texture yarn (super microfiber) is 0.001-0.3 denier. When the single yarn fineness exceeds 0.3 denier, the hairiness and the durability of the hair are improved, but the touch is hard and the lighting effect effect may be lowered. If the single yarn fineness of the surface tissue yarn (ultramicrofiber) is less than 0.001 denier, the touch may soften or the hairs may be easily detached or entangled by friction, resulting in poor appearance.

On the other hand, the present invention uses a highly shrinkable yarn or synthetic fiber yarn as the back surface yarn of warp knitted paper. The highly shrinkable yarn and synthetic fiber yarn is preferably a polyester filament. In order to improve washing and light fastness, it is also possible to use a backing yarn containing 0.1 to 15% by weight of the original component.

Single yarn fineness of the back surface yarn is preferably 1 to 5 denier. If the single yarn fineness is less than 1 denier, it may be difficult to impart proper resilience to the warp knitted paper (processed paper). If the single yarn fineness exceeds 5 denier, fairness such as canon and lattice may deteriorate, The resilience may be so great that it is difficult to express a soft touch on the surface.

It is preferable to use a copolyester as said high shrink yarn. Bisphenol-A, polyethylene glycol, isophthalic acid, etc. can be used as a copolymerization component. However, this invention does not specifically limit a copolymerization component.

On the other hand, the present invention is characterized by using a spandex elastic yarn as the yarn of the intermediate tissue, to increase the fiber density of the surface tissue by their shrinkage. The spandex elastic yarn, which is the intermediate tissue yarn, has good shrinkage property, thereby increasing the fiber density of the surface tissue on the final processed paper, thereby improving the feel of the warp knitted fabric, and providing the stretch knit with good elasticity and resilience. The total denier of the spandex is preferably 30 to 90 denier.

The content of the surface tissue yarn during the knitting is preferably 40 to 87% by weight relative to the total weight of the processed warp knitted paper. If the content is less than 40% by weight, there is a risk that the warp knitted fabric may be poor. If the content is more than 87% by weight, the content of intermediate yarns and backing yarns may be relatively low, resulting in drape and mechanical properties.

On the other hand, the content of the intermediate tissue yarn and the backing yarn yarn is preferably 3 to 20% by weight and 10 to 57% by weight relative to the total weight of the processed warp knitted paper, respectively. If it exceeds the above range, the touch of the warp knitted fabric may be lowered, and if it is less than the above range, the shape stability and drape may be lowered.

The processed dough is prepared by brushing, preheating, reducing (eliminating constituents), buffing and final heat treatment according to a conventional method.

According to the present invention, the above-mentioned original component is contained in the ultrafine yarn, so that the dyeing step can be omitted. However, additional staining may be done to control the color of the warp knitted paper. For further dyeing it is recommended that the dye use concentration be less than 3%. The density of the processed warp knitted fabric is preferably 40 to 60 copies / inch.

The warp knitted fabric of the present invention is excellent in washing and light fastness because it contains a black adhesion component in the surface tissue yarn or the surface tissue yarn and the back tissue yarn. Specifically, the laundry fastness is three or more, the daylight fastness is five or more. In addition, since the warp knitted fabric of the present invention is a two-component eluting yarn of the surface tissue, it has excellent process permeability such as diameter and cutting, and at the same time, the eluting component is eluted at the time of post-processing so that the surface tissue yarn becomes extremely fine, resulting in excellent lighting effect and Soft touch can be expressed.

On the other hand, the warp knitted fabric of the present invention can solve the problem that the touch is excessively soft when the warp knitted fabric is made of conventional two-component eluting yarns because the back tissue yarn is between the two islands having the appropriate fineness and can express excellent drape. have. In particular, the warp knitted fabric of the present invention is composed of spandex elastic yarns and highly shrinkable yarns, each of which has excellent elastic properties, so that the microfiber density of the surface tissue is more dense, and the warp direction and course of the warp knitted fabric Excellent recovery rate and feel in the direction.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples and Comparative Examples. However, the present invention is not limited only to the following examples.

Example 1

Polyethylene terephthalate containing 4% by weight of carbon black as a fiber-forming component, 5 mol% polyethylene glycol, 5 mol% dimethyl-5-sulfoisophthalate, 5 mol% isophthalic acid and 85 mol% polyethylene terephthalate Elution-type composite fibers (expanded yarn) having an alkali-soluble copolyester formed as a dissolution component but having a fiber-forming component fineness of 0.07 denier formed after eluting the dissolution component were used as the yarn for the surface structure, and 40 denier / 5 A light-knit paper with a density of 23 bones / cm, using a spandex elastic yarn of filament as an intermediate tissue yarn, and a polyester multifilament of 50 denier / 24 filament (original yarn) containing 3% by weight of carbon black as a yarn for the back side tissue. To prepare. At this time, the weight ratio of surface tissue yarn: intermediate tissue yarn: back tissue yarn in warp knitted fabric should be 55% by weight: 10% by weight: 35% by weight. The prepared warp knitted fabric was brushed to 50% shrinkage, and then preliminarily set, and then reduced for 40 minutes in an aqueous solution of 1% concentration and caustic soda at 98 ° C., buffing and final setting (180 ° C.) to prepare a processed warp knitted fabric. do. Staining was not performed at this time. Table 1 shows the results of evaluating the quality characteristics of processed warp knits.

Example 2

Polyethylene terephthalate containing 3% by weight of carbon black as a fiber-forming component, 5 mol% polyethylene glycol, 5 mol% dimethyl-5-sulfoisophthalate, 5 mol% isophthalic acid and 85 mol% polyethylene terephthalate Elution-type composite fibers (expanded yarn) having an alkali-soluble copolyester formed as a dissolution component but having a fiber-forming component fineness of 0.07 denier formed after eluting the dissolution component were used as the yarn for the surface structure, and 40 denier / 5 Spundex elastic yarn of filament is used as the intermediate tissue yarn, and a polyester fabric having a density of 23 bones / cm is prepared using 50 denier / 24 filament polyester multifilament (not the primary yarn) as the yarn of the backside tissue. At this time, the weight ratio of surface tissue yarn: intermediate tissue yarn: back tissue yarn in warp knitted fabric should be 55% by weight: 10% by weight: 35% by weight. The prepared warp knitted fabric was brushed to 50% shrinkage, and then preliminarily set, and then reduced for 40 minutes in an aqueous solution of 1% concentration and caustic soda at 98 ° C., buffing and final setting (180 ° C.) to prepare a processed warp knitted fabric. do. The warp knitted paper was dyed at 120 ° C. × 45 minutes (ph = 4.5) with a black dispersant (concentration 2% o.w.f) in a general Rapid dyeing machine and was finally set to 160 ° C. after reduction and washing. The results of evaluating the quality characteristics of dyed warp knitted paper are shown in Table 1.

Example 3

Polyethylene terephthalate containing 5 wt% of a solvent pyridone yellow S-4G (manufactured by Eastwell Co., Ltd.) as a fiber-forming component, 5 mol% of polyethylene glycol, 5 mol% of dimethyl-5-sulfoisophthalate, Elution type composite fiber having an alkali-soluble copolyester composed of 5 mole% of isophthalic acid and 85 mole% of polyethylene terephthalate as an elution component, and having a fiber-forming component fineness of 0.07 denier formed after the elution component is eluted. Is used as the surface tissue, 40 denier / 5 filament spandex elastic yarn is used as the intermediate tissue yarn, and 50 denier / 24 filament polyester multifilament (not the primary yarn) is used as the backside yarn. Prepare a warp knit of bone / cm. At this time, the weight ratio of surface tissue yarn: intermediate tissue yarn: back tissue yarn in warp knitted fabric should be 55% by weight: 10% by weight: 35% by weight. The prepared warp knitted fabric was brushed to 50% shrinkage, and then preliminarily set, and then reduced for 40 minutes in an aqueous solution of 1% concentration and caustic soda at 98 ° C., buffing and final setting (180 ° C.) to prepare a processed warp knitted fabric. do. Table 1 shows the results of evaluating the quality characteristics of processed warp knits.

Example 4

Polyethylene terephthalate containing 4% by weight of a pigment, heliogen blue D 7030 (Bust), is a fiber-forming component, 5 mol% polyethylene glycol, 5 mol% dimethyl-5-sulfoisophthalate, isophthalic acid 5 Elution type composite fiber (primary yarn) having an alkali-soluble copolyester composed of mol% and 85 mol% of polyethylene terephthalate as an eluting component, and having a fiber-forming component fineness of 0.07 denier formed after eluting the eluting component, It is used as yarn, 40 denier / 5 filament spandex elastic yarn is used as intermediate tissue yarn, and 50 denier / 24 filament highly shrinkable polyester yarn (not primary yarn) is used as the yarn for back side tissue. Prepare the warp letter. At this time, the weight ratio of surface tissue yarn: intermediate tissue yarn: back tissue yarn in warp knitted fabric should be 55% by weight: 10% by weight: 35% by weight. The prepared warp knitted fabric was brushed to 50% shrinkage, and then preliminarily set, and then reduced for 40 minutes in an aqueous solution of 1% concentration and caustic soda at 98 ° C., buffing and final setting (180 ° C.) to prepare a processed warp knitted fabric. do. The results of evaluating the quality characteristics of processed warp knitted paper are shown in Table 1.

Comparative Example 1

Alkali-soluble copolymer poly which consists of polyethylene terephthalate as a fiber forming component, and consists of 5 mol% of polyethyleneglycol, 5 mol% of dimethyl-5-sulfoisophthalates, 5 mol% of isophthalic acid, and 85 mol% of polyethylene terephthalates. Elution-type composite fibers (not primary yarns) having an ester as an eluting component but a fiber-forming component fineness of 0.07 denier formed after eluting the eluting component are used as the yarn for the surface tissue, and a spandex elastic yarn of 40 denier / 5 filament is used as the intermediate structure. It is used as a yarn, and is made of 50 denier / 24 filament polyester multifilament (not primary yarn) as a yarn of the back side structure to prepare a warp knitted fabric having a density of 23 bones / cm. At this time, the weight ratio of surface tissue yarn: intermediate tissue yarn: back tissue yarn in warp knitted fabric should be 55% by weight: 10% by weight: 35% by weight. The prepared warp knitted fabric was brushed to 50% shrinkage, followed by preliminary set-up, and 40% reduction in 1% concentration and aqueous solution of caustic soda at 98 ° C., dyeing, buffing and final setting (180 ° C.) To prepare. At this time, the dyeing was carried out using a black dispersion (concentration 12.5% o.w.f) in a general rapid dyeing machine 120 ℃ × 45 minutes (ph = 4). Table 1 shows the results of evaluating the quality characteristics of processed warp knits.

Fairness and warp letter characteristics division Fairness Warp letter characteristics Kyung Sung Jeong Organization Color fastness Daylight fastness Feel (soft) Repulsive Example 1 ◎ ◎ Grade 5 7th grade ◎ ◎ Example 2 ◎ ◎ Level 3 6th grade ◎ ◎ Example 3 ◎ ◎ Grade 4 7th grade ◎ ◎ Example 4 ◎ ◎ Grade 4 7th grade ◎ ◎ Comparative Example 1 ◎ ◎ 1st grade Level 3 ◎ △

In the present invention, the quality characteristics of warp knitted paper are evaluated by the following method.

Laundry fastness : measured by KS K 0430 A1 method.

Daylight fastness : measured by KS K 0700 method.

Surface softness : Based on the results of sensory evaluation by 10 experts. (Circle) and 8 or more judged that the softness was judged to be soft, and the case where 8 or more judged that the softness was bad was divided into x.

· Repulsiveness : Based on the results of sensory evaluation by 10 experts. The case where 8 or more persons are judged to be repellent is divided into ◎, the case where 5 to 7 persons are judged to be repellent is classified as △, and the case where 8 or more persons are judged to be repellent is classified as x.

Canonicality : When there is no maximum number of times of expected expectations due to the defect of yarn at the time of normal speed at 500m / min. In the normal state (△), when the number of battalions per hour was three or more times, it was determined that the canon was in bad condition (×). Based on the expected operating conditions, the average hourly run was calculated.

Knitting : In the same weaving machine, when the knitting speed is 1,000m / min, there is no epoch of the hourly expectation due to the defect of yarn when weaving. It was judged that the batting was normal (△) at times, and the batting was bad (×) when the number of battalions per hour was three or more times. The average number of times per hour was calculated based on the standard.

The warp knitted fabric of the present invention may omit the dyeing process by using a surface tissue yarn containing the original component during manufacture, and is excellent in washing and light fastness. In addition, because the island-in-the-sea composite fiber is subjected to the diameter and crushing process, the processability is good, and after elution of the sea component, the process becomes fine and the touch and resilience of the warp knitted fabric is excellent.

Claims (8)

On a three-layer warp knitted fabric with an intermediate structure made of spandex elastic yarn between the surface structure made of ultra-fine yarn with a single yarn fineness of 0.001 to 0.3 denier and a backbone tissue made of high shrinkable yarn or synthetic fiber with a single yarn fineness of 1 to 5 denier. According to claim 1, wherein the ultra-fine yarn contains a raw material selected from the group consisting of carbon black, pigments and dyes, the laundry fastness is three or more grades, the daylight fastness excellent in washing and light fastness, characterized in that the fifth grade or more. [4] The warp knitted fabric of claim 1, wherein the content of the primary component in the ultrafine yarn constituting the surface tissue is 0.1 to 15% by weight. The warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the synthetic fiber yarn constituting the back structure contains an original component selected from the group consisting of carbon black, pigments, and dyes. delete The warp knitted fabric of claim 1, wherein the main components of the ultrafine yarn, the high shrinkable yarn, and the synthetic fiber yarn are polyester. Elution Components After elution, single-fiber composite fibers with 0.001 to 0.3 denier were used as surface tissue yarns, standex elastic yarns as intermediate tissue yarns, and high shrinkable yarns with single yarn fineness of 1 to 5 deniers as backside yarns, respectively. 0.1-15% by weight of the primary component selected from the group consisting of carbon black, pigments and dyes as the surface tissue yarns in the manufacture of warp knitted paper by cutting, raising, preheating, reducing (removing the elution component), buffing and final heat treatment. A method for producing a warp knitted fabric having excellent washing and light fastness, characterized by using a island-in-the-sea composite fiber composed of a fiber-forming component to be contained and an eluting component as a water-soluble polymer. The method of manufacturing a warp knit having excellent washing and light fastness according to claim 6, further comprising dyeing the processed warp knit. The method of claim 6, wherein the dyeing concentration in the further dyeing is less than 3%.